February PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM
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PARIS | CONTENTS
Hot Dates
This month’s calendar of must-see events
Paris at the Movies
Go on a tour of the city’s most famous Hollywood locations
The guide 16 SHOPPING
The latest trends and the hottest fashions 46 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS
This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 60 DINING
Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 70 ENTERTAINMENT
This month’s best events and shows 78 SERVICES
Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings F E BRU A R Y 2 0 18 Issue N o 289
PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®
Love is an
ART FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS
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ON THE COVER
Turn to page 28 for our Love is an Art photo shoot. Photo © Marc Martinon
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4 W H E R E PA R I S I F E B R UA R Y 2018
PARIS. MY WAY by where
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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
PUBLISHER and General manager
Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 EDITOR-in-chief Sandra Iskander* CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*
It is known around the world as the most romantic city in the
ART DIRECTOR - PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février*
world and Paris continues turning its charm, lending itself to
GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia*
every couple’s dream romantic getaway, creating a magnificent
Shopping Maps Illustrator Aline Zalko
backdrop. In this issue we celebrate the magic of movies that
jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com
have been injected with charm and romance through the
advertising - senior account managers Myriam Bouchet*
beauty of Paris with our Paris at the Movies feature taking you on a tour of the city’s most famous locations that have
SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet
advertising - account managers Schaz Rosman*, Marina Pajou*
Valentine’s Day you will find our gift guide for him and her in
Publicité secteur Marché de l’Art HELIUM Publicité Tel: 01 48 01 86 86 contact@heliumpublicite.fr
our Shopping pages as well as our Love is an Art photo shoot
DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang*
made it on the big screen. Completing our ode to love and
with gorgeous looks to get you ready for a romantic date night.
Editorial & CommunicationS Assistant Pauline Valter*
attractive destination for art enthusiasts with the city’s
OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy* *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE firstname.lastname@wheremagazine.com
museums and art galleries putting on incomparable shows.
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS
February isn’t only about love and romance, it is also an
This month we bring you a round-up of the must-see exhibitions including a tribute to Degas, a celebration of the Dada artistic movement and an inside look at special effects
MVP i EUROPE maNAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning
MVP i EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler
MVP i CREATIVE
that bring exciting sequences to movies. Meanwhile, over in our Dining guide there are truffles, Mediterranean flavours and a new steak house to savour before enjoying musicals, a ballet and cocktails at the city’s hottest bars, which are all found in our Entertainment pages. We hope you enjoy this issue of Where and your stay in the City of Romance.
CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt
MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS Chairman William S. Morris III President and CEO William S. Morris IV
Connect with us online Facebook.com/WhereParis Twitter.com/whereparis
Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2015). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Février 2018. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito S.p.A
Sandra Iskander [Editor-in-Chief]
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Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901
6 W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
February
HOT DATES Discover the best of February in Paris
From Paris with Love Feb 14 Celebrate Valentine’s Day strolling through the charming neighbourhood of Montmartre in the romance capital of the world before taking in the gorgeous view of the city from the steps of the SacrÊ Coeur.
8 W H E R E PA R I S I F E B R UA R Y 2018
PARIS THIS MONTH
Marilyn
Montmartre iStock 2018 © Alpamayo Photo; Marylin Monroe, La Dernière Séance, Bel Air Hotel, Beverly Hills, juillet 1962, © Bert Stern, courtesy Galerie de l’Instant, Paris; Eugene Richee, Marlene Dietrich © Bridgeman Images; Andy Warhol (American, 1928–1987) , Double Elvis, 1963. Silkscreen ink on synthetic polymer paint on canvas , Gift of the Jerry and Emily Spiegel Family Foundation in honor of Kirk Varnedoe © The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / ADAGP, Paris 2017
Through to Feb 13 She captured the world with her beauty and Galerie de l’Instant is bringing together photos of Marilyn Monroe taken by Bert Stern, Lawrence Schiller and Sam Shaw, showing the different facets of this iconic woman. Glamorous, playful and natural, each photographer captured a different side of the woman who to this day still fascinates the world. 46 rue de Poitou (3rd), 01 44 54 94 09
Miss Dietrich
MoMA in Paris
Through to Feb 25
All Month
Another iconic woman celebrated through photography is Marlene Dietrich. 200 photos are being exhibited at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie showing the glamour of the actress who fast became a fashion icon with her own unique style. The black and white photos are a beautiful album of her life and career captured by well-known international photographers including Willy Rizzo and Irving Penn.
The Fondation Louis Vuitton is giving visitors a remarkable chance to see 200 works from the collection of the Museum of Modern Art of New York. The Etre Moderne: Le MoMA à Paris show is an impressive collection of works by, among others, Andy Warhol, Picasso and Cézanne. 8 ave Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01 40 69 96 00
5 rue de Fourcy (4th), 01 44 78 75 00
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PARIS THIS MONTH
Crazy About ABBA Feb 3 For one night only, the Salle Pleyel will be hosting ABBA Mania, the tribute band that brings the last ABBA concert to life. Step back in time and experience the 1982 concert today, with the homage staying true to every detail, from the choreography down to the Swedish accent of the band members. This is sure to be a unique experience for die-hard ABBA fans. 252 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 76 49 43 13
Trade Shows & Art Fairs February 2-4 Salon de la Gastronomie des Outre-Mer et de la Francophonie This show is devoted to the savours and flavours of the French Antilles and countries of the French-speaking world and also features the culture, heritage and know-how of these regions. This year’s special guest is French Polynesia. Cooking competitions, conferences, debates and fun events are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am until 7pm and until 11pm on the 3rd. www.sagasdom.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
February 7-11 RETROMOBILE This is the show for vintage and collectable vehicles. This year Renault will be celebrating its 120th anniversary with never seen before models from the National Car Museum in Compiègne and a retrospective of Renault tanks by the Tank Museum. There is also an exhibition of four emblematic AngloSaxon cars by the National Motor Museum of Beaulieu and an auction of vintage vehicles by Artcurial. The show is open from 10am to 7pm, and until 10pm on the 7th and the 9th. www.retromobile.fr Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
For Foodies All Month Shop along Rue de Passy in the chic 16th arrondissement and enter the recently opened La Grande Epicerie. The food mecca, which took over the home of the once iconic Franck et Fils department store, is sprawled over three floors and serves up fresh produce, charcuterie, French cheese and a corner dedicated to bread. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01 44 14 38 00
February 7-12 PARAPSY This show is devoted to clairvoyance, telepathy, astrology, divination, the esoteric and alternative science and medicine. Healing, well-being, destiny readings, consultations, hypnosis demonstrations and conferences are also on the agenda. This year the show is hosting a village of destiny section reserved exclusively for consultations. The show is open from 10:30am to 8pm, and until 10pm on the 7th and the 9th. www.salonparapsy.com Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th)
February 8-10 Virtuality This show is devoted to the latest in virtual reality and immersive technologies. This year the show presents a host of exhibitors and has a video games village as well as an international village welcoming the world’s best start-ups. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.virtuality-paris.com Le Centquatre-Paris, 5 rue Curial (19th))
Wine & Dine All Month Step into the hole-in-the-wall wine bar Buvette where French wine is served, and only locally sourced ingredients are used to make freshly prepared French dishes including the humble croque monsieur, which is made with a creamy béchamel sauce. 28 rue Henry Monnier (9th), 01 44 63 41 71 10 W H E R E Paris I f e b r ua r y 2018
You will find all you need for knitting and needle work at this attractive trade fair. New creations and innovative textiles from all over the world are featured along with lessons and workshops, like the Sewing Bar, the Crochet Bar and the Patch Bar. A speed knitting contest, the famous Knitting Championship, is held during the show. The show is open from 9:30am to 6:30pm, until 9pm on the 8th and until 5pm on the 11th. www.aiguille-en-fete.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
February 14-18 SALON DES INDEPENDANTS This art show brings together 550 contemporary confirmed and emerging artists from 30 countries. This year the show is emphasising diverse mediums with painting, sculpture, drawing, photography, digital art, ceramics and installations all on display. The show is open from 11am to 8pm and until 10pm on the 15th and the 17th. www.artistes-indépendants.fr Grand Palais, Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01 45 63 39 14
La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite - Le Pain - ©DR
February 8-11 L’AIGUILLE EN FETE
réalisation : belazar
loving Get a gift that will warm y o u r Va l e n t i n e ’ s h e a r t M A I S O N D U C H O C O L AT TOMMY HILFIGER M A X I M ’ S D E PA R I S
FOSSIL
CAU DA L I E
Paris at the Movies By Sandra Iskander
12 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Feature
Moulin Rouge iStock 2018 Max Ozerov; Cité de la Mode et du Design -® JAKOB + MACFARLANE Tous droits réservés photo par Thibaut Vankemmel - Agence Les Barbus
Cité de la Mode et du Design (above) and the Moulin Rouge (opposite page)
V
alentine’s Day is when couples turn on the charm and spoil one another with thoughtful gifts, and Paris effortlessly serves up an endless list of ideas to couples, from walking hand-in-hand through its streets and dining on rich French fare to jewellery shopping in its luxury boutiques. The French capital hasn’t only inspired couples to declare their love but has also given plenty of material to work with to moviemakers who have succumbed to its charms. Charming, romantic and chic, Hollywood has always portrayed Paris as everything dreams are made of, with breathtaking architecture, elegant boutiques and streets full of charm, creating a stunning backdrop to any story. Through these images it is easy to see why people dream of walking through the Parisian streets, marvelling at its beauty, when they walk out of movie theatres around the world. With an infinite list of stunning scenes shot here in the capital to daydream about, we have narrowed down the list of attractions that have made it to the big screen for you so you can walk in the footsteps of your favourite movie star, with each location doubling as a perfect setting for lovers in Paris. Woody Allen, the talented director, used the City of Light as a backdrop to his movie Midnight in Paris, which starred Owen Wilson, Rachel McAdams and France’s former First Lady, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. The hit movie featured several scenes in the sumptuous Bristol Hotel, and it is where you are invited to discover Epicure. With French doors opening onto the perfectly manicured gardens, Epicure, the hotel’s three Michelin star restaurant, offers a spectacular dining experience in an equally spectacular dining room. The chef, Eric Fréchon, will delight you with carefully served dishes including his signature macaroni filled with black truffles, artichokes and foie gras covered with aged parmesan. Midnight in Paris also featured other Parisian delights including the famous flea market, the Puces de Saint-Ouen. Your rendezvous for pre-loved antiques, the flea market in Saint-Ouen is made up of 16 different markets, each specialising in a domain. The Antica market is where you will find furniture from the XVIII and XIX centuries, the Biron market specialises in Asian art and for vintage postcards, vinyl records and prints the Dauphine market is your destination.
Something’s Gotta Give, the 2003 hit romantic comedy with the fabulous Diane Keaton and Hollywood icon Jack Nicholson, told the story of Erica and Harry. One of the most famous scenes of the movie takes place in Le Grand Colbert, a French brasserie in the second arrondissement of the capital. This traditional restaurant, which has been listed as an historic monument, features breathtaking high ceilings, mosaic flooring and friendly service. It is here you can sample authentic French fare including frog legs, escargots and onion soup before strolling through the neighbouring Palais-Royal garden, under its beautiful arcades that cover some of the city’s most exclusive boutiques. Amélie, the whimsical French movie starring Audrey Tautou, was not only a quirky romantic story that won audiences the world over but the movie also introduced the audience to the Café des 2 Moulins, where Amélie worked. The small café, located in the charming district of Montmartre, is a traditional Parisian café where you can enjoy a coffee or a glass of wine and do what the Parisians do best, sit on the terrace and people watch. And while you are in Montmartre make sure you pass by Le Mur des Je t’Aime, the Love Wall. The wall, in a small public garden, is a mural paved with tiles declaring I Love You in 300 languages, creating, quite literally, a love-filled backdrop for your walk through the romance capital of the world. Another great movie set in Montmartre is the musical Moulin Rouge! Starring Ewan McGregor as Christian and Nicole Kidman as Satine, the romantic musical tells the lovestruck duo’s story, which is set against the backdrop of the famous Moulin Rouge cabaret, home to the original Cancan. Today, the cabaret is still a major attraction with daily shows inviting you to watch the fabulous dancers dazzle you with their boisterous screams and rhythm, with skirts being lifted in the air as they dance the Cancan. Action movie fans will also get a kick out of visiting the French capital with numerous action-packed movies filmed here. Walking along the banks of the River Seine all the way down to Quai Austerlitz where scenes from Mission: Impossible 6 were shot will sure impress Tom Cruise fans, and while in the neighbourhood a place worth visiting is the Cité de la Mode et du Design. Standing out along the Seine, largely due to its ultra-modern fluorescent green structure, the Cité de la Mode et du Design is a cultural
w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 13
space that is home to the Art Ludique museum, which hosts contemporary art exhibitions that regularly celebrate the art of comic books, cinema and manga.
Dan Brown’s hit novel turned movie The Da Vinci Code took viewers to the Louvre, where the famous Mona Lisa painting sits and where the story of the film begins. Regardless of whether you are a believer of the theory or not presented by Mr Brown, the Louvre remains one of the most famous museums in the world. A former royal palace, the Louvre is the world’s largest art museum that exhibits over 35,000 works of art notably some of the world’s masterpieces including the Venus de Milo and of course the Mona Lisa. TV has also brought the je ne sais quoi quality of Paris to the small screen. Sex and the City fans will get a buzz out of following in Carrie Bradshaw’s designerclad footsteps in the fashion capital. Walk along the chic Avenue Montaigne, one of the three avenues that create the exclusive Triangle d’Or district of the French capital. Shop at Dior, Chanel and Louis Vuitton before stopping by L’Avenue, one of the city’s most popular restaurants where during Paris Fashion Week celebrities, designers and fashion editors lunch. On the celebrated avenue you will also find the iconic Hôtel Plaza Athénée where you can sip on champagne and nibble on croissants in La Galerie.
ADDRESS BOOK Epicure 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 53 43 43 40 Puces de Saint-Ouen 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt) Le Grand Colbert 2 rue Vivienne (2nd), 01 42 86 87 88 CafE des 2 Moulins 15 rue Lepic (18th), 01 42 54 90 50 Le Mur des Je t’Aime Square Jehan Rictus 10 rue André Barsacq (18th) Moulin Rouge 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 CitE de la Mode et du Design 34 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01 76 77 25 30 The Louvre Rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 40 20 53 17
This page (top to bottom): Epicure, The Louvre and La Galerie at the Plaza Athénée Opposite page: Le Mur des Je t’Aime
14 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
La Galerie Hôtel Plaza Athénée 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 67 66 00
Restaurant Epicure at the Bristol DR; The Louvre, Galerie d’Apollon - Musée du Louvre, dist. RMN - Grand Palais / Olivier Ouadah; La Galerie at the Plaza athénée © Niall Clutton; The Wall of Love © Valérie Loiseleux
Taken, the blockbuster thriller starring Liam Neeson, about a retired CIA agent who comes to Paris to save his kidnapped daughter, is another action movie that took to the streets of Paris. Shooting in the Fouquet’s Barrière Hotel, the movie takes you to the most famous and glamorous avenue in the world, Avenue des Champs-Elysées. The stunning avenue that is bookended by the Arc de Triomphe and Place de la Concorde is home to the Louis Vuitton flagship boutique as well as other high-end boutiques including jewellery house Cartier.
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The Guide
Shopping
By Sandra Iskander
Roman wears a Smalto suit and shirt Turn to page 28 for more of our Love is an Art looks
16 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Photo © Marc Martinon
For Her | Jewellery | Valentine’s Day Gift Ideas | New Openings | Beauty
Shopping
For Her
Sexy Scent Layering your perfume got a whole lot sexier with Kilian’s collaboration with Fleur du Mal lingerie. Bringing the savoir-faire of the two luxury houses, the capsule collection sees the delicate lace of the lingerie threaded with scented microcapsules of Kilian’s Love Don’t be Shy perfume. The perfume takes inspiration from the humble marshmallow, giving a sweet scent to the feminine lingerie and sensually marries the pink hue of the collection to the powder pink of the sugary treat Kilian Boutique 20 rue Cambon (1st), 01 40 39 94 14
Dot Your Fashion It may still be a little bit chilly outside but Blumarine is getting us ready for the warmer months with its Spring/Summer 2018 collection. Fun, flirty and feminine, the collection is an ode to summer with florals, floaty cuts and sheer fabrics coming together to make up a Côte d’Azur-ready wardrobe. And for its accessories line, the Italian house has embraced the polka dot to bring us dotty elegance with heels, clutches and belts wearing sexy spots. Blumarine Boutique 56 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 45 61 33 22 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 17
Shopping Jewellery
A Bangle Celebration Frey Wille, the Austrian house known for its handmade enamel jewellery, is marking a milestone with a rainbow of colours. celebrating 30 years of its iconic Monochrome bangle, Frey Wille has released a new collection of bangles that you can stack or wear alone. Painting the Mademoiselle design in green, red, turquoise and blue, the bangle is given a burst of colour that is easily worn with this season’s fashion palette and with the house’s technique of using fire enamel to create its collections, the bangles have a remarkable shiny surface, making each colour stand out as it catches the light. Frey Wille Boutique 167 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 47 47
Bohemian Jewels Inspired by her travels to Bali, Caroline de Benoist’s eponymous jewellery brand is an ode to her falling in love with the joie de vivre of Indonesia. Bringing together colourful gemstones and the know-how of Balinese artisans who handmake each of her pieces, de Benoist’s jewellery is bohemian chic with a twist of French elegance. Worn alone or stacked, the jewellery highlights a tan and adds a pop of colour, completing a winter look effortlessly. The collection features bracelets, earrings, necklaces and rings including this Wicker ring inspired by Balinese woven baskets, and with the jewellery handmade each piece is a unique creation with each stone creating a new accessory, offering an impossibility of finding two identical pieces, a perfect find for fashionistas looking for one-of-a-kind jewellery. Available at Printemps 64 blvd Haussmann (9th) , 01 42 82 50 00 18 W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
WHERE PARIS PROMOTION
ACABA
Glorious Gloves in Gear
A
wonderful world of gloves unfolds at the house of Acaba, gloves that are brought out in limited edition collections be they in leather and made in Italy or in fabulous fabrics and made in France. Warmth, comfort and elegance are all hallmarks of the house mixed in with novelty and creativity. There are short gloves, driving gloves, glamorous long gloves all in a harmonious host of materials like select leather, tulle, fishnet, and lovely lace.
And as Retromobile, the international fair devoted to collector classic and vintage motor vehicles, drives into town from February 7th through to the 11th, heads turn towards driving gloves of which Acaba has a growing selection for both men and women. For Retromobile and Saint Valentine’s Day the house has brought out a registered glove design bringing together leather and silk matched with the patterns of the silk scarves fashioned by the French house of fine silk V.L. Carré de Soie. There are two versions of the black leather gloves lined in silk, one sports a bow with a checked pattern, while the other is outfitted with red silk with black polka-dots. Driving gloves offer a good grip while classic car owners sometimes wear driving gloves to
protect vintage steering wheels fashioned in wood. And on another driving note, Acaba is the official supplier of the official glove of the Le Mans Classic car race. The house carries gloves of some 40 colours made from craft dyes, colours that burst forth in turquoise, fuchsia, purple, shades of grey, invigorating red or powder pink. There
are myriad linings to choose from as well like silk, cashmere, rabbit or shearling, the choice can depend upon what you’re doing when sporting the gloves for there are gloves for hunting, for horseback riding, for the cold of winter or for dancing. There are plenty of models on hand, too, for men in a generous selection of materials ranging from various leathers to suede all in a multitude of colours. There is a glove for every occasion and on this note, advice is on the agenda at Acaba. “I also like two-toned gloves, which let bright colours in winter look good,” explains the house’s founder, Claire Gros, a trained gemmologist who loves gloves and has extensive experience working in the glove business. Glorious gloves can be tried on inside the inviting boutique with its atmosphere of oak, copper and leather outfitted with wardrobes, displays punctuated with LED lighting and refined counters. A full range of sizes is available as well for both men and women, and if you don’t find your pair in the size or in the colour you need and wish for, you can order it.
41 rue des Petits Champs (1st) Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 www.acaba.fr w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19
Shopping
Valentine’s Day Gift Ideas
With Love... for Her
Goyal Available at L’Exception 24 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 39 92 34
Paul Smith 223 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 42 68 27 10
Angelina 226 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 82 001 42 61 75 67
Lalique 11 rue Royale (8th), 01 53 05 12 81 The Kooples 22 rue Royale (8th), 01 40 15 98 23 20 W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Angelina © Aimery Chemin2017
Laura Sayan Available at Mad Lords 316 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 45 25 08 31
With Love... for Him Guerlain 356 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 68 61
Jadis et Gourmande 27 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 42 65 23 23
Lip Available at Ochrono 3 rue Perrault (1st), 01 42 61 90 52
Officine Universelle Buly 1803 6 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01 43 29 02 50
Brioni © MarcusTondo
La Garçonnière 40 rue des Petits Carreaux (2nd), 09 73 68 14 47
Brioni 370 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 40 70 01 80
Tumi 245 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 45 79 70 30 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21
Shopping For Him
Tagging Travels Celebrating 145 fabulous years of luxury accessories, S.T. Dupont has called upon the talents of Fernando Romero and Mike Baca of the UR New York collective to create a limited edition collection, and the result is worthy of a celebration. The talented street artists have left their mark on the luxury brand’s iconic Cosy Bag by tagging the travel accessory and creating a working work of art. The Cosy Bag Iconic S.T. Dupont x UR New York brings the art of graffiti and the luxury of travel accessories together, creating standout pieces for the modern man. S.T. Dupont Boutique 58 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 45 61 08 39
The World of Wempe Back in 1878, Gerhard Diedrich Wilhelm Wempe opened a modest watch workshop and shop in the scenic German town of Elsfleth on the Weser. Today, the world of Wempe unfolds in 32 boutiques in cities all over the world, from New York to Paris, London and Beijing. The house’s Parisian boutique has been on the French capital’s luxury boutique landscape for over 30 years now and today the apartmentlike shop is a place to discover myriad watches from both Wempe and a host of prestigious brands. While the house is based in Hamburg, it is in an observatory, renovated by Wempe, in Glashütte, that the company fashions its own wristwatch lines, the Wempe Chronometerwerke Glashütte i/SA and the Wempe Zeitmeister Glashütte. Pictured here is the Wempe Chronometerwerke Automatic CW4. - P.V. Wempe Boutique 16 rue Royale (8th), 01 42 60 21 77 22 W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Shopping For Him
Tailored Looks
Figaret to the Rescue
The luxury of bespoke fashion comes with elegance and refined taste and now fashion brand Rives offers gentlemen a corner store in the emblematic Parisian department store, Printemps, where they can choose their complete wardrobe in the one space. The first fashion house specialising in tailoring to open up in the men’s department of Printemps, Rives affords shoppers an address where they can select and alter shirts, pants, suits and jackets to their liking. Parisian in style, the Rives collections are urban meets chic with tailored trousers and jackets hallmarks of the brand, proving that tailored pieces are not only reserved for stuffy suits..
French luxury brand Figaret is the specialist when it comes to tailored shirts, with its devotion to the humble staple offering gentlemen a wide range of cuts. From the classic cut to the slim option, and from plain to striped, Figaret guarantees a cut and colour to suit every style, and now the house has taken its love of ensuring that there is a shirt for every man to a new level with its recent launch of Figaret SOS. The service comes to the rescue with a shirt delivered in less than an hour and a half when unfortunate accidents happen such as spilt wine or coffee ruins your worn shirt and a replacement is needed quickly, ensuring your look is never compromised.
Available at Printemps 64 blvd Haussmann (9th) , 01 42 82 50 00
Boutique 21 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 42 65 04 99
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Shopping
New Openings
Sweet Beauty Bringing together the two things that are dear to every lady’s heart, beauty and French pastries, the new 86 Champs boutique on the gorgeous Avenue des Champs-Elysées brings the universe of L’Occitane beauty and the world of pastry chef extraordinaire Pierre Hermé under one glorious roof designed by French designer Laura Gonzalez. Open daily, the 86 Champs invites you to shop for your beauty creams before or after enjoying a sinfully delicious Millefeuille or uniquely flavoured macarons including the chocolate and foie gras macaron. The boutique also boasts a coffee bar to appease coffee snobs visiting the capital.
Christofle’s New Home Dress your home in modern elegance thanks to the newly opened Christofle boutique on the chic Rue Saint-Honoré. Just a few doors down from where the iconic Colette store once stood, the new boutique is an inviting space where you are drawn into an apartmentinspired space where the French house displays its savoir-faire in silverware. Limited edition pieces, the house’s signature Mood silverware set and colourful crystal ware are only some of the gorgeous creations waiting to be handpicked to add a French touch to your home. Christofle Boutique 221 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 40 13 10 43 24 W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Christofle Saint Honoré opening - Photo by Pascal Le Segretain Getty Images for Christofle
86 Champs 86 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 70 38 77 38
Shopping
New Openings
A Pop-Up for Rossignol The French capital is playing host to the very first pop-up Rossignol boutique. On the famous Rue de la Paix, the ephemeral boutique boasts two spaces, the first sees the house’s classic collection of skiwear and urban gear with a special place dedicated to shoes. The second space puts on show the JC de Castelbajac x Rossignol collection, which is a palette of primary colours, the signature hues of French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. The boutique will be open until the end of the month and is the perfect stop to put together the perfect skiing wardrobe before heading off to the French Alps. Rossignol Boutique 24 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 40 06 03 20
Huygens © Thibaut de Saint Chamas
Bespoke Beauty Working with natural ingredients and made in France, Huygens beauty products have found a popular following with Parisians and due to its success the brand recently decided to open a second boutique. The new boutique offers shoppers the same product range and the opportunity to create their bespoke products using essential oils to suit every client’s preferences. With a lab onsite the products can be personalised quite quickly meaning shoppers can leave with their shower gel, body scrub or even their shampoo. Huygens Boutique 51 rue Charlot (3rd), 01 56 58 10 14 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 25
Shopping Beauty
Diamonds are for the Face Give your face an injection of rose diamonds at the Chi Spa at the Shangri-La Hotel for a luminous complexion. The treatment starts with a back massage, taking you to another universe where you enter a zen state, preparing you for the luxurious facial. In collaboration with The Organic Pharmacy, the spa’s new facial, Soin du Visage Liftant Rose Diamant, which was created exclusively for the hotel, is an anti-age treatment that focuses on hydrating your skin to give it a luminous glow. The 90-minute treatment uses The Organic Pharmacy’s Rose Diamant range of products with the Rose Diamant exfoliating cream gently removing the dead skin thanks to its precious diamond dust before a gel is applied, concentrating on hydrating your skin for a plumper, younger looking skin. Chi Spa Shangri-La Hotel 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01 53 67 19 78
Overnight Youth
Staying Young Stopping the hands of time is made a little bit easier thanks to Sothys’s new Jeunesse facial. Focusing on reducing the visible signs of aging, the treatment uses the skincare brand’s line of Jeunesse products, which boast saffron and sophora as key ingredients, helping to fight against free radicals and giving you a more youthful appearance. The one-hour and fifteen-minute facial starts off with a deep cleanse before s serum is applied zoning in on wrinkle-prone areas before a mask is applied to give you an instant lift. The treatment is adapted to each client and it is recommended that you sign up for a program of 3 facials to help wipe out 6 years off your face. Sothys Spa 128 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 53 93 91 53 26 W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Making sure you get your beauty sleep quite literally, La Prairie has just released the new Platinum Rare Elixir Cellulaire de Nuit. Complementing your anti-age facials, keeping the signs of aging away needs care at home too, and with this new powerful serum La Prairie aims to continue making you look younger overnight. Used at night, the serum works to improve your skin elasticity and by turn reduces the signs of wrinkles, and with the platinum peptides, the key ingredient, the skin is hydrated helping to rejuvenate it, resulting in you waking up to younger looking skin. La Prairie Boutique and Spa 199 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 21 18 72
LOVE THE MOMENT This spring at La Vallée Village Discover more than 110 boutiques with savings of up to 50%* and tax-refunded shopping§ in a charming open-air setting. Armani, Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Moncler, Paul Smith, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sandro, Tod’s and many more Open 7 days a week, 40 minutes from Paris and 5 minutes from Disney® Parks. #LaValleeVillage #LovetheMoment |
A MEMBER OF THE BICESTER VILLAGE SHOPPING COLLECTION ™ *33% off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections all year round and up to 50% off in certain periods and boutiques. § Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique. © La Vallée Village 2017 12/17
Shopping Fashion
Love is an Art
Ana wears Yanina Couture dress Guiseppe Zanotti shoes Tasaki Ritz Paris platinum and diamond necklace, ring and earrings Roman wears Lanvin tuxedo Dior shirt Guiseppe Zanotti shoes Breguet watch
28 W HE RE Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2018
Photographer: Marc Martinon Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Photographer’s Assistant: Aline Bartoli Make-Up Artist & Hairstylist: Julie Mandin Models: Ana Carolina from UP Models and Roman F from What Else Agency Special thanks to Loft du 34 and street artist Marko93
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Leonard dress Isabelle Langlois feather, turquoise, tsavorite, blue topaz and diamond ring Isabelle Langlois feather, emerald, sapphire, green tourmaline and blue topaz earrings
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Ungaro suit jacket, shirt and bowtie Rolex watch w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com   31
Ana wears Emanuel Ungaro dress de Grisogono Allegra rose gold and diamond earrings and ring Breguet watch Roman wears Tommy Hilfiger suit Crockett & Jones shoes Blancpain watch
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Ana wears Roland Mouret dress Stuart Weitzman shoes Chanel Bouton de Camélia white gold and diamond necklace Chanel Secrète white gold and diamond bracelet and ring Roman wears Lanvin tuxedo Dior shirt Lanvin shoes w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 33
Ana wears Emmanuelle Khanh cape dress Piaget Rose Passion white gold, diamond and emerald ring Piaget Rose Passion white gold, diamond, aquamarine, emerald and tourmaline earrings Roman wears Eden Park suit and shirt 34  W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Ana wears Pronovias dress FaurÊ Le Page clutch Piaget Limelight Rose Passion white gold, aquamarine, diamond, yellow diamond and emerald necklace Piaget Rose white gold and diamond earrings Roman wears Balibaris suit, shirt and shoes Eden Park tie w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com   35
Address Book
shopping
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories
Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),
01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine
BeAuty spAs & products
Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal
Books & music
FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour
Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde
children’s clothing & toys Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine
LaLique
| Home
36 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd),
01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries La Grande Récré - 79 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.63.42.10. M° George V Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet
clothing: men & Women Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Gresley Paris - 24 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.33.35.81. M° Pyramides Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Marina Rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Ports 1961 - 251 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.35.41. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt
LauLhère
| Accessories
Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries
depArtment stores & shopping centres
Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels
BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville
Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th),
01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)
eye WeAr
GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V
JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac
Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac
fABrics: couture
Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde
home
Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra
Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine
Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde
Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (14th), 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire
Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),
01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine
shopping
Address Book
JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra
Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie
Véro-Dodat (1 ), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Djula - 269 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.86.08.56. M° Concorde DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Garel - 17 Rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.40.04. M° Opéra Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gorky - 18 rue Duphot (1st) , 01.42.60.22.76. M° Concorde Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau st
Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 48 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.47.20.48.48. M° George V Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde
lingerie
Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries
Hedgren - At the BHV Marais (2nd floor), 52 rue de
Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Kate Lee - 16 rue des Gravilliers (3rd), 01.48.04.57.72. M° Arts et Métiers Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau
multi-BrAnd Boutiques Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard
shoes Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V
Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),
01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards
Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),
Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),
Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) ,
Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th),
01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine
01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde
luggAge And BAgs
Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse
Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),
01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon
acaba
| Accessories
01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde
heDGreN
| Luggage and Bags
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LUXURY MAP
Faubourg Saint-Honoré
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• Sothys
AB OÉT IE
Philippine Janssens •
• Christie’s
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Hedgren • •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • • • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger Tommy • Coach Hilfiger Alexander McQueen • • Emporio Armani Hackett • • Marc Jacobs Lacoste • • David Morris • • Omega Omega• UL
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3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8 (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com th
Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara
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• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•
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• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •
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Laulhère
Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior
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• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •
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• Royal Iro Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •
Yohji Yamamoto
In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
Lanvin La Perla Vuarnet
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Jardin des Tuileries
JANSSENS & JANSSENS
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Lanvin
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26 blvd Malesherbes - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 66 34 21 www.capelstore.fr
Place de la Concorde
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CAPEL With a 60-year experience, Capel is the French brand specialised in luxury ready-to-wear for big and tall men. The collections are the perfect blend of French style, perfect fitting, comfort and quality for both business and casual occasions. They also carry selected brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Cutter&Buck, Paul&Shark and Pal Zileri. Open MonSat 10:30am-7pm.
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• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel Bally • •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan U ’A N J O Valentino • • Ermenegildo Zegna RUE D • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Djula • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Crockett Dandys • • Chanel • Boucheron &Jones • Tod’s • • Givenchy UIER • Cartier • RUE PASQ Alessi Burberry Hermès • • RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •
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Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE
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16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr
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The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.
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Pierre Cardin
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•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat • Baccarat • AV
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RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ
FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
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SHOP STOP
Bucherer
• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!
Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.
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• Eric Bompard• Ellie • Bvlgari • Dubail Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard •Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • EA • • RC A Christofle Creed M Altan La Grande• UE EN • RUE PI •Les Suites • Bottier• Récré AV Arije • ERRE C Cartier • HAR Givenchy Kusmi RON • EV Tea • Chaumet Scabal • GEORG Rolex • E Beretta Dubail • NU Cercle E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Arabian • Delacre • Oud • • Burma RUE Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE • RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • Balenciaga A TR R • Vionnet É U MOI E M• • Smalto By Marie&Gas Bijoux LLE A Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain ALMA MARCEAU Karl • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld Zadig&Voltaire • Valentino Caron AVE • Thomas • Harry • N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello MARIG E Dior • RUE DE Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli • PSG • Joseph• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MON • Givenchy TA Fendi • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe•• Van Pucci • •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Dolce&Gabbana •• Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine ST Dupont IE
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29 ave Montaigne - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 03 09 paris.montaigne@harrywinston.com www.harrywinston.com
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Armani Collezioni RE 1 ER DE S
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Publicis Drugstore • Lancel •
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•Adidas Meet the French
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• Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN
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40 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UA R Y 2018
COURS
12/14 Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 53 14 94 www.meet-the-french.com
NFÉRENCE
Meet the French is not only an exceptional chauffeur service but the company with 85 years of experience also offers its elite clientele a bespoke service. While standard trips are easily organised, the company prides itself on also organising guided tours to discover France’s abundance of savoir-faire.
PORT DE LA CO
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RUE G Place des États-Unis
SHOP STOP
Founded in New York City, in 1932, The House of Harry Winston continues to set the standard for the ultimate in fine jewelry and high-end watch making.
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RUE JEAN GIRAU
63 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 43 59 59 59 www.arabianoud.fr
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Fabio Caviglia•
On the most famous avenue in the French capital you will find the intoxicating scents of Arabian Oud. This perfume house showcases an array of perfumes with strong notes of agar wood, musk, incense and scented oils.
Arc de Triomphe
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W W W. B A C C A R A T. C O M Yo u a r e i n v i t e d t o d i s c o v e r o u r c o l l e c t i o n s a t o u r B a c c a r a t B o u t i q u e s : 7 9 , r u e d u F a u b o u r g S a i n t - H o n o r é • P a r i s 7 5 0 0 8 • Te l : 0 1 4 2 6 5 3 6 2 6 1 1 , P l a c e d e s E t a t s - U n i s • P a r i s 7 5 0 1 6 • Te l : 0 1 4 0 2 2 1 1 0 0
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Saint-Germain SHOP STOP
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42 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UA R Y 2018
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ES SA RU E D’OD
8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris
BVD
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DOT-DROPS
DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!
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Poiray • Liu Jo BO Christian RUE U • Façonnable L • E VA DE L Louboutin Stella • ’A B Louis RD B AY • SAI • Agent Luna Etro • E Vuitton N T • Provocateur G • • ERM Sonia • Brunello • AIN Rykiel Moncler • Cucinelli Burberry Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Smith Voyeurs • Lauren • Paul Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Ami Maison Armani BOU • Lejaby• • • L E • De Fursac VA R L.K. Cartier • Y’s D SA • Céline Bennett INTGER Ferragamo Rolex• MAI • Dinh Van Carven • MABILLON N Crockett & Jones • Hackett• Montblanc Alexis Mabille • • Kenzo • • Gas Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Bijoux Saint Laurent• L’Ibis Rouge • • OUR • DU F Liu Jo RUE Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi • Djula Dot-Drops • • U FOUR La Perla • Alain Mikli • D Durance RUE M.A.C.• • • Repetto Le Mont Omega Saint Michel Berluti • RES V • É S E Saint D • • • E RUE DE BABYLONE • RU Agnès b Lancaster Laurent Longines Camper •Wille • SU LP IC E T• Frey IN • SA SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp RUE • • Hermès Robert Eres • • ULPICE Clergerie SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S Le Bon •Lise Loxwood S & Voltaire E Charmel • Marché S É V R DE • • Il Bisonte
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68 rue du Bac - Paris 7th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 58 10 www.jlcopticien.com
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Faienceries • de Gien
RUE BON A PA
BOULEV
JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER In the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from luxury brands such as Oliver Peoples, Eyevan, Barton Perreira, Lindberg, Thom Browne and more...
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Ofée . • Maje • Atelier Cologne • Hartwood • Deyrolle The Kooples
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33 blvd Raspail - Paris 7th Tel: +33(0) 1 45 44 19 30 www.crockettandjones.com
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A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand for men and women is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, and custom-made service.
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SHOP STOP Gare Saint-Lazare
TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES
SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE
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Printemps Beauté-Maison HAVRE- • Guerlain • CAUMARTIN Cerruti
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J.M. Weston• Gorky Antiquités N Tommy BO Hilfiger AM
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Waskoll A. Lange • & Söhne • Marvella • C Repetto • E Poiray U R Corthay Y Garland • Christofle • • Harrison Cartier • OLNE Piaget Yumi Katsura • Diesel V • Hugo Boss • E • Bodum • IX • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Dinh Van • A Alexander McQueen • L •Fred Louis Vuitton • • UE DE• Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier R • Jaquet Droz Dubail Dior Bvlgari • Anshindo • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House • Tasaki• • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU Hublot • • ST Breguet • RU • Patek Philippe Place du Marché Zadig & ED • Dior FreyWille • ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia MP Montagut • S Dodo Courteille • RU Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba • Tourist ON • • Balenciaga Arije T - T Paule Ka Office HA Akillis • BO • PYRAMIDES RUE R • • • Jovoy TH Missoni ÉR Christian Dior • M.A.C ÈSE Ami • • • •Frank Namani Bonpoint Colette • Penhaligon’s • Mulberry • RU
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12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com
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BUCHERER PARIS In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.
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Lancel
• • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty
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Bally Hackett Omega
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38 ave de l’Opéra - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 01 68 shop.opera@bodum.com
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Bodum, a Danish family owned company that has been delivering innovative designs for more than 70 years. In 1974, Bodum introduces its first French Press® coffeemaker. Nowadays, Bodum continues to extend its collection of wonderfully designed products for every day use, ranging from kitchen and table top articles to small electric appliances..
CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE
Uniqlo •
Fragonard
Mario Dessuti•
BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE
BODUM
Galeries Lafayette Coupole
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MADELEINE Église de la Madeleine
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40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/
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Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.
Printemps Homme
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Galeries du Diamant •
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Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal
la Concorde
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
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Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Christofle
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• RUE ROYALE
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• Wempe • Lancaster • Kate spade • Tory Burch • Max Mara
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Galerie Véro-Dodat
Christian Louboutin
Place des Victoires
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44 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UA R Y 2018
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15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com
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Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte
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Galerie de Valois
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•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil
• Opéra Garnier
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Galerie de Montpensier
Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.
Garel
RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS
Printemps du Louvre
Garland
RUE DE LA PA IX •
•Christian Dior •M.A.C
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• RedLine
Vendôme
Place du Marché Saint-Honoré
•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ
Vivienne • Westwood
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•Dodo •Baldinini •Moynat • Burma •Stuart Weitzman • Balenciaga
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The Kooples •
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Ami • Missoni• Kiehl’s• • Barbara Rihl Colette • Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • La Prairie •
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Goyard • •Dubail Church’s• Paule Ka• TUILERIES Jack Russell
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• Zwilling • Lipault
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Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.
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14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com
Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : +33 (0)1 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com
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This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.
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IZIPIZI is a brand of ready-to-wear trendy glasses. They offer everyone a classical and funny accessory, a basic must-have for reading, sun protection and screen protection. Soft and colorful glasses for adults, children and babies.
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56/58 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd 28 rue du Temple - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 74 50 05 www.emilelafaurie.com
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Founded in 1992 in Paris, men’s contemporary fashion designer, Emile Lafaurie, is the go-to lifestyle brand for impeccably tailored clothes and contemporary casual gear for today's man. Known for signature pieces like the painter coat, the designer specializes in fine fabrics and a refined color palette.
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106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr
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The Guide
arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti
Catherine Deneuve-Christian Vadim Photo © Studio Harcourt Paris
Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours
46 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Catherine Deneuve and Christian Vadim at Studio Harcourt Paris (opposite page)
arts&attractions
Albert Camus Photo © Studio Harcourt Paris; Edgar Degas (1834-1917) Portrait de Giulia Bellelli Entre 1858 et 1869 Crayon noir, lavis gris, papier crème, rehauts de blanc et essence Paris, musée d’Orsay, RF 11689 (dépôt AG Louvre) . Service de Presse © Musée d’Orsay, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais
Exhibitions
In Transmission The Studio Harcourt, the legendary photography studio founded in Paris in 1934 and known for its signature black and white photographs of movie stars and celebrities, is putting on an exhibition of photographs showcasing the notion of transmission entitled Trait d’Union, which literally means hyphen but figuratively means intermediary. Through some 60 portraits the exhibition invites the visitor to reflect on the links of transmission that bring together people through the ages and what each person receives and retains from the previous generation. Teachers and students, parents and children, role models and disciples pose for the lights of the Studio Harcourt, together and separately, at the same time and at different times allowing visitors to discover what links for instance Catherine Deneuve to Christian Vadim or the relationship between the student and the teacher as interpreted by Albert Camus. Showing through to April 30th 6 rue de Lota (16th), 01 42 56 67 67
Dancing with Degas On the centenary of his death, the Musée d’Orsay is paying tribute to Edgar Degas in an exhibition entitled Degas Danse Dessin, Tribute to Degas with Paul Valéry. The show revolves around a little-known work by the French writer and poet Paul Valéry, Degas Danse Dessin (Degas, Dance, Drawing), a work that stems from the 20-year friendship between the two men, during which both reached the pinnacle in their respective mediums. Valéry’s work conveys a poetic and fragmentary image of the personality of Degas and his art while the exhibition through countless drawings, sculptures and paintings by Degas and documents, archives and Valéry’s famous notebooks links Valéry’s essay to the graphic works of the artist underscoring the resonance between text and images. An extensive programme of lectures, guided tours, concerts and film projections are all on the agenda. Showing through to February 25th 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01 40 49 48 14 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 47
Galerie TaménaGa IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART
MODERN MASTERS: Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet... CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano, Yoshikawa...
18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com
Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS
The Dare of Dadaism
Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday
Tel: 01 40 11 96 38
www.olwenforest.com
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an exhibition, entitled Dada africa, Non-Western sources and influences, is being played out at the Musée de l’Orangerie, juxtaposing works from the Dada artistic movement with african, asian and american indian works. Dada was an artistic and literary movement that emerged in Zurich as a reaction to World War i and the traditional values and nationalism that many thought had led to the war. The show of 289 works in myriad mediums compare the non-Western works with Dadaist productions underscoring the process of exchange and appropriation by these artists. Dada paintings, sculptures, photo collages and photographs are juxtaposed with non-Western sculptures. among the works on display include those by Man ray, Marcel Duchamp, Marcel Janco, known for his masks, Hannah Höch’s collages, collective works as well as masks and statues by anonymous non-Western artists. The show also highlights the role Paris played as a fertile ground for non-European art and how this contributed to the Dada movement. Showing through to February 19 Jardin des Tuileries (1st), 01 44 50 43 00
Sophie Taeuber-Arp (1889-1943). Motifs abstraits (masques), 1917. Gouache sur papier, 34 x 24 cm. Remagen-Rolandswerth/Berlin, Stiftung Arp e.V. Service Presse © Stiftung Arp e.V., Berlin / Rolandswerth. Wolfgang Morell
Lorenzo FERNANDEZ
arts&attractions Exhibitions
Marvellous Meteorites These are stones that have fallen from the sky to our planet, Earth. Meteorites have always been a subject of fascination bursting with information about our universe and inspiring fear as well as a cult of collecting. The Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle (The National Museum of Natural History), which possesses one of the largest collections of meteorites in the world, is presenting an exhibition entitled Météorites, entre Ciel et Terre (Meteorites between the Earth and the Sky). The show brings together documents, over 350 meteorites, works of art inspired by these extra-terrestrial stones and features an array of interactive displays and spectacular projections. A cool end to the show is when visitors can touch a piece of the moon or the planet Mars, objects that were formed in the early days of our solar system some 4.56 billion years ago and journeyed over hundreds of millions of kilometres to reach our planet.
Effective Effects The wonderful world of special effects in the movies is being played out at the Cité des Sciences taking visitors to the other side of the silver screen, behind the scenes where it all happens. From action movies to science fiction and animated films, the most spectacular productions rely on special effects, which encompass an ensemble of techniques and technologies. The show, entitled Effets Speciaux, Crevez l’Ecran! (Special Effects, What a Screen Presence), takes an inside look at this often mysterious world by plunging the visitors into the heart of the matter. The journey is divided into four segments, which illustrate the four steps in the audio-visual production process, preproduction, the film set, the postproduction studio and a movie theatre. The show was co-produced by the Cité des Sciences with the CNC, the Centre National du Cinéma de l’Image Animée (French National Centre for Cinema and the Moving Image). Showing through to August 19th 30 ave Corentin-Cariou (19th), 01 40 05 70 00 50 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Meteorite exhibition Photo © NASA JPL Caltech UCLA; Special Effects Exhibition at the Cité des Sciences CGChannel-April2010-Matte-Painting © Gordon-Tarpley
Showing through to June 18th 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01 40 79 54 79
arts&attractions
Exhibitions
Les ambassadeurs de Siam accompagnés de leur interprète, l’abbé Artus de Lionne. Jacques Vigoureux Duplessis (av 1680-1732). Vers 1721. Huile sur toile. Institut de France, Abbaye Royale de Chaalis, Fontaine-Chaalis © Bruno Cohen Senlis
The Visitors of Versailles The Château of Versailles with some seven million visitors a year is one of the most visited historic sites in the world. The palace and its gardens have drawn visitors since the hunting lodge of Louis XIII was transformed by Louis XIV into one of the most brilliant residences in Europe and open to all according to the wishes of the Sun King himself. The château is currently hosting an exhibition, organised in conjunction with the Metropolitan Museum of Art, entitled Visiteurs de Versailles. Voyageurs, Princes, Ambassadeurs, 1682-1789 (Visitors to Versailles. Voyagers, Princes, Ambassadors, 1682-1789), for French and foreign travellers, princes, ambassadors, artists, writers, philosophers and tourists on the Grand Tour all crossed paths at Versailles during the 18th century. Through over 300 works the exhibition presents these visitors to Versailles from the second half of the 17th century to the French Revolution, bringing together portraits, court costumes, travel guides, porcelain and illustrates what these voyagers discovered upon their arrival. Showing through to February 25th Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, 01 30 83 78 00
FOIRE DE CHATOU
th
EDITION
MARCH 9 th TO 18 th 2018
RUSSIAN ART ANTIQUES / MARKET 20 th CENTURY ART / ART GALLERIES REGIONAL SPECIALITIES
T H E G R E AT E S T A N D O L D E S T FA I R I N F R A N C E
ÎLE DES IMPRESSIONNISTES [78] – WWW.FOIREDECHATOU.COM Every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. – On-site experts – Admission 6 € Free shuttle from the Rueil-Malmaison station [RER A] – Valet service
Antiquités ntiqu ti
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arts&attractions Day Trips
unique villa with two imposing and impressive facades sits in the north of France just 20 minutes from the city of Lille. Designed between 1929 and 1932, the Villa Cavrois is regarded as the most emblematic achievement of the modern architect robert Mallet-stevens. Back in the early 20th century the north of France was highly industrialised and the villa was built for textile industrialist Paul Cavrois and his family, which included seven children. Today, the structure, a landmark of modern architecture in France, is part of the network of the Centre des Monuments Nationaux (Centre of French National Monuments) and open to the public.
villa is located, which was then taken over by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux in 2008 and completed in 2015, restoring the property to its original splendour. While the décor designed by Mallet-stevens was without ornamentation, noble materials, like marble and rare woods for the parquet flooring, were used to underscore the affluence of the Cavrois family. When the property was looted in the 1990s the villa lost most of its marble surfacing and so during the restoration work the marble inlay was reconstructed, using marble from diverse backgrounds notably white italian marble, black Belgian marble and swedish yellow marble.
The Villa Cavrois has castle-like proportions with a 60-metre long facade and 2800 square metres of flooring and two symmetrical wings in the tradition of aristocratic residences of the 17th century. Yet the structure, fashioned in yellow brick, bursts with the modernity of its time with a host of rooftop terraces, large bay windows and advanced equipment like central heating, a telephone, an electric timer, a dumbwaiter and even a lift.
Open Tuesday to sunday, from 10am to 6pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. sNCF train Gare du Nord to Lille then Tramway r direction roubaix to Villa Cavrois stop, then 10-minute walk.
a centrepiece of the villa is its belvedere, which offers a commanding view of the surrounding park. The park, also designed by Mallet-stevens, originally stretched out over 5 acres but after a subdivision in the 1990s, it has been reduced to half of this size though the central part of the gardens and the 72-metre long water mirror remain and have been returned to their full lustre. The park is also outfitted with a circular driveway and a 27-metre long swimming pond, another aspect of the villa’s modernity. The villa was occupied by the German army during World War ii then returned to the Cavrois family after the war and upon the death of Mrs Cavrois in 1985, sold to a developer. abandoned, it was vandalised and the property deteriorated with rapidity. a huge restoration project was implemented in 2003 by the Nord-Pas-de Calais department, where the 52 W HE RE Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2018
60 ave Kennedy, 59170 Croix, 03 20 73 47 12 www.villa-cavrois.fr
Southern Facade © Jean-Luc Paillé – Centre des monuments nationaux-Photo de Presse. Swimming Pond © Jean-Luc Paillé – Centre des monuments nationaux-Photo de Presse
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A Vivacious Villa
DISCOVER THE VILLA CAVROIS A true modern castle built in the ’30s
Buy your ticket online : www.villacavrois.fr
/villacavrois
crédit photo : Jean-Luc Paillé / réalisation : CMN mission communication Olivia Lambert
1h from Paris
arts&attractions Monuments
The Arc de Triomphe
The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Although the monument is empty, a HistoPad can be rented to vision detailed 360° reconstitutions. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€. Combined ticket with the Sainte-Chapelle 15€. Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité
EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the 54 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10-25€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro
NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; OctMarch 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11 pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 . M° Cité
PALAIS GARNIER-OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Through to March 3 Patrice Chéreau, this exhibition showcases the creative process of the opera and theatre director. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:00am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra
PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Through to March 4 Marie Curie, une femme au Panthéon, an exhibition devoted to the illustrious scientist, Marie Curie. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.paris-pantheon.fr 6 pl du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. M° Cardinal-Lemoine
SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view
Arc de Triomphe iStock 2018 © S. Greg Panosian
ARC DE TRIOMPHE
Interior of the Basilica of Saint-Denis_Caroline Rose - Centre des monuments nationaux -Photo de presse
from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers
SAINTE-CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan-March 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time.10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité
THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde
Basilique Cathédrale de Saint-Denis Located in a suburb just north of Paris, this cathedral basilica, a major work of Gothic architecture, was completed in the 13th century during the reign of Saint Louis. It is the final resting place of the kings and queens of France and houses over 70 recumbent statues and monumental tombs from the Renaissance and funerary sculpture from the 12th to the 16th centuries. The edifice is managed by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux. Through to March 31 Les Romanov à Saint-Pétersbourg, d’une nécropole à l’autre, this exhibition presents commented illustrations and several objects from The State Museum of Political History of Russia as well as its Fortress offering a discovery of the Russian citadel as well as the wellknown tsars of the Romanov family. Mon-Sat 10am-5:15pm & Sun from 125:15pm. 9€. www.saint-denis-basilique.fr 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 93200 Saint-Denis, 01 48 09 83 54. M° Basilique de Saint-Denis
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Address Book
arts&attractions
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris AreAs & MArkets Paris Flea Market
Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)
Carré Rive Gauche
This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)
Opera Gallery Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde
AttrActions Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua) Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna
Ballon de Paris
Art gAlleries
Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel
Galerie Bartoux Elysées
Canal Saint-Martin
A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République
Galerie Olwen Forest
Catacombes de Paris
Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt
Galerie Tamenaga
Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Château de Fontainebleau | Day Trips 56 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018
The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th), 01.43.22.47.63. M° Denfert-Rochereau
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in
360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette
Disneyland Paris With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy
Flight Experience Paris You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04. M° Quai de la Gare
Grande Arche This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop are all on the agenda. Daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche
Le Manoir de Paris The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau
Paris Story A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin
Parc Zoologique de Paris This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.
l’open tour paris | Guided Tours
arts&attractions
Address Book
Pavillons de Bercy Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion
boAt cruises Bateaux Parisiens Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro
Bateaux-Mouches The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau
Batobus A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12
Vedettes du Pont Neuf These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf
River Limousine Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37
Vedettes de Paris Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars
dAy trips Château de Fontainebleau A residence of the French kings from the 12 to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes th
Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.
Château de Versailles
Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Château et Domaine de Chantilly
North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.
Château de Vaux le Vicomte
This unique estate with its 17 century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90 th
Giverny
Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21
Musée National du Château de Malmaison
This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château
gArdens Jardin des Tuileries
This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde
Musée national du Château de MalMaison | Day Trips
Jardin du Luxembourg
These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon
guided tours L’Open Tour Paris
Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra
Paris Authentic
This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. Enjoy Paris by day or night, champagne in Montmartre, historic landmarks, luxurious places, secret neighbourhoods, tailor-made tours. 06.64.50.44.19
Paris City Vision
City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries
Retro Tour
Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com
MuseuMs & foundAtions Centre Georges Pompidou
France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau
Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine
The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des
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arts&attractions Address Book
which include many of the raw materials used in perfume making. Tues-Sun 10:30am-7pm. 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.25.44. M° Miromesnil
Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain
This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz
A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail
Fondation Louis Vuitton This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons
Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
Institut du Monde Arabe Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu
La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, archives, cameras and costumes. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy
La Maison de Victor Hugo This museum located in a splendid private mansion on the Place des Vosges is devoted to the French writer, statesman and artist Victor Hugo who once lived there. The museum’s collections include drawings by Victor Hugo, manuscripts, statues and paintings as well as photographs and furnishings. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 6 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.72.10.16. M° Saint-Paul
Le Grand Musée du Parfum The world of perfume unfolds in this museum devoted to perfume and the art of perfume making, one of France’s leading industries. Located in a beautiful private mansion, the museum takes the visitor on a historical and sensorial quest. The visit is highly interactive with videos and devices used to try out the fragrances and scents found along the way
Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design
MAD A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal
Mona Bismarck American Center The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville
Musée des Arts et Métiers A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers
Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro
Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. TueSun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.
Musée de l’arMée – hôtel des invalides | Museums & Fondations 58 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne
Musée Cernuschi The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau
Musée Cognacq-Jay This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul
Musée Grévin A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards
Musée Guimet This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière
Musée en Herbe A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal
Musée de l’Homme The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections
Musée CognaCq-Jay | Museums & Fondations
Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides ©iStock; Musée Cognacq-Jay ©Pierre Antoine
Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro
arts&attractions
Address Book
offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro
Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil
Musée du Louvre One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli
Musée de la Magie A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul
Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Musée du Parfum - Fragonard Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra
Musée Marmottan Monet
Musée Rodin ©Hervé Abbadie
A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette
Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle
Palais Galliera
A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz
Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau
Musée de l’Orangerie In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde
Musée d’Orsay A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino
Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau
Musée Picasso A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart
Musée Rodin Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne
Musée du Vin Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy
Musée rodin | Museums & Fondations
Palais de la Découverte This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Palais de Tokyo Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna
Petit Palais The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin
11 Conti - Monnaie de Paris This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf
prActicAl inforMAtion Le Kiosque Théâtre Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue
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The Guide
dining
Truffles | Steak Houses | Russian Dining | Middle Eastern Cuisine
Taste test starters, main dishes and desserts made with trues at Trues Folies (opposite page)
60 W HE RE PA R I S I F E B R UA R Y 2018
dining
Restaurants
All About Truffles If you are an amateur of truffles then you must pay Truffes Folies a visit while in the French capital. This recently opened second address of the popular establishment on the Left Bank in the 7th arrondissement, seats less than 20 lucky diners and specialises in truffle-based dishes, with everything from starters to desserts finding a place for the coveted truffle. Start with the truffle-infused creamy buratta, to share, before enjoying the truffle ravioli served with a creamy truffle-flavoured cream sauce and shavings of truffles. Finish your meal with Italian pecorino cheese, which has been delicately flavoured with the delicacy and if you prefer to end your meal on a sweeter note try the French toast brioche drizzled with salted caramel and served with a surprising truffle-flavoured ice-cream. – S.I. Truffes Folies 48 rue de Berri (8th), 01 42 89 43 06
Restaurant Le Grill Astier © Roberta Valerio
Astier Steaks Astier, one of the best-loved bistros in Paris, has opened a little brother of a table next door that’s a terrific address for carnivores. A superb selection of meat is grilled over a charcoal fire in the kitchen here, and then served by the charming maitresse de maison with sides of roasted vegetables or some of the best frites (fries) in Paris. If you order a côte de bœuf for two, you’ll have a choice between beef from Normandy or Simmenthal from Germany, both are excellent, and before they’re sliced tableside on a wooden cutting board, you will be asked to choose from a selection of rare peppers, which are then freshly crushed with a miniature mortar and pestle. A wine-and-bone-marrow sauce is also served with the meat. Other cuts on offer include a filet mignon and a skirt steak, and they also serve a first-rate steak tartare. There’s an excellent wine list, too. Cosy but chic, this is a delightful choice for a good hearty and fairly priced French feed on a cold winter’s night. - Alexander Lobrano Le Grill d’Astier 40 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud (11th), 01 43 55 57 00 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 61
dining
Restaurants
Worth the Trip The editors of the Michelin Guide famously coined the phrase «vaut le voyage,” or worth the trip, to indicate a restaurant so special that it was worth making a trip just to eat there. Happily, one of the best restaurants I’ve come across lately is just a cab ride away in eastern Paris. This is Restaurant Botanique, a charming and very original address that was born of the collaboration between Alexandre Philippe, a passionate oenophile who serves here as sommelier, and Japanese born chef Sugio Yamaguchi. The two young men met during a winemakers’ luncheon and discovered that they shared a very common idea as to what a great modern French restaurant should be today. So, Philippe found a small two-story factory on a quiet side street in the 11th arrondissement and transformed it into a stunningly beautiful restaurant with a glass panel in the floor of the ground-floor dining room that offers a vertiginous view of the exceptional wine cellar below. Upstairs, the more formal of the two dining rooms has a clerestory roof with a welcome glimpse of the sky in the heart of the city. With Yamaguchi in the kitchen, the restaurant offers two different menus, a more casual bistro menu downstairs and two pricier and more gastronomically ambitious tasting menus upstairs. Highlights of the 5-course Fructidor menu include an intriguing vegetal crepe filled with lightly marinated shellfish, a fresh and brightly iodine rich debut to a meal, a very delicate dish of John Dory filet under a fragile crunchy potato crust with a baby artichoke stuffed with seafood, impeccably roasted Guinea hen with baby vegetables, cep mushrooms served in a velvety pool of richly reduced jus, and seared scallops in a gently acidulated cream with blazes of emerald herb oil. Desserts are intriguing, too, including a chocolate ganache seasoned with pepper and accompanied by a gelée of spiced tea. Yamaguchi’s cooking is light, technically impeccable, humbly lyrical and inspired in equal measure by the culture he was born into and the one he’s made his own. This is a delightful restaurant and an ideal choice for a thoroughly memorable meal. - A.L. Restaurant Botanique 71 rue de la Folie-Méricourt (11th), 01 47 00 27 80
62 W HE RE Paris I F E B R UA R Y 2018
dining
Restaurants
Russian Dining in Paris After opening at the Printemps department store and in Saint-Germaindes-Prés, the latest address of Russian restaurateur Andrei Dellos’s celebrated Moscow Café Pouchkine occupies an elegant duplex space that overlooks the historic pantheon of luxury-grocery shopping in Paris, the Place de la Madeleine, home to such delectably storied institutions as Hediard, Fauchon, Caviar Kaspia, La Maison de la Truffe and Crabe Royale. Dellos founded the original café, which is named in honour of the famous Russian writer, in 1999 and has since gone on to become one of his country’s greatest gastronomic diplomats, since his restaurants champion his country’s refined and often delicate cooking. At this latest address, there’s a shop, tea room and bar on the ground floor and an elegant restaurant with a candy-box decor of mouldings, chandeliers and fringed lamps upstairs. The all-day menu here offers blinis with salmon, eggs benedict, scrambled eggs, and various sandwiches and salads, along with a superb selection of pastries by Gault & Millau’s 2017 pâtissier of the year Nina Métayer. Selections from the autumn/winter restaurant menu include pelmeni (delicate dumplings) stuffed with ceps and foie gras in beef bouillon, beef stroganoff, and perch pike filet Pojarsky-style (with a crust of deep fried bread cubes) in a light tartare sauce. An excellent selection of caviar is also available, and the tarte cappuccino a l’orange is the dessert not to miss. A perfect choice for a light stylish meal or a romantic tête-à-tête in the heart of Paris. - A.L. Café Pouchkine 16 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01 53 43 81 60
Café Pouchkine © Mathieu Salomé; Les Grands Verres © Damien Lafargue
A Middle Eastern Touch The recently opened Les Grands Verres restaurant and bar in the Palais de Tokyo is fast becoming the city’s go-to hotspot for socialites, fashionistas, journalists and everyone looking for good food and better cocktails. What makes this place so popular is the friendly service, the great cocktails and the Middle-Eastern influences found in chef Preston Miller’s dishes. The menu changes on a regular basis but can include dishes such as the Fattoush salad made with a medley of vegetables seasoned with Lebanese herbs, and pasta tossed in a hazelnut butter sauce and mushrooms. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner and you can enjoy cocktails at any time in the lounge area of the restaurant, the best spot though is directly at the bar where you can also order from the menu. - S.I. Les Grands Verres 13 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01 85 53 03 61 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 63
dining
Restaurant Advertorial
DJaKarta Bali
ziti
Indonesian cuisine
Italian restaurant
49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1st 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com
460 rue Pierre Charron , Paris 8th 4Metro: Franklin Roosevelt 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 63 48 48 4Monday-Saturday, lunch and dinner from noon -3pm and in the evening from 7pm-midnight 4www.ziti.fr
Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader ‘s choice 2017.
Classic Italian specialties are served in this lively eatery off the Champs-Elysées. Starters include a bresaola-based salad and Parma ham aged for 20 months. Homemade pastas are on the agenda with for example linguine in tuna and tomato sauce.
Vintage & Cie.
truffes folies
Fine Wines
Fine cuisine with truffles
4199 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 8th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 40 70 98 43 4Mon-Sat 10:30am to 8pm 4Expert advice 4Tastings every Thursday night from 6pm to 8pm 4www.vintageandcie.com
437 rue Malar, Paris 7th / Tel: +33 (0)1 44 18 05 41 4Metro: Latour Maubourg/ Pont de l’Alma 4Lunch: 12pm to 3pm (except Sunday) 4Dinner: 6:30pm to 9:30pm (except Saturday/Sunday) 4www.truffesfolies.fr
Fine and rare wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhône, Loire, Alsace, Languedoc and Provence are all found at Vintage & Cie. Mouton Rothschild 1890, Margaux 1900 and Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage 1961 are among the high end offerings. But lesser known winemakers, rising stars, are also represented. This unique venue offers a tasting room and private cellars that can be privatised.
64 W HE RE Paris I F E B R UA R Y 2018
Located near the Invalides, the restaurant Truffes Folies welcomes you in an elegant, warm and intimate setting. You will savour a selection of truffle-based dishes (risotto, tagliatelle, foie gras, salads) and regional products. We have carefully selected for you the finest of gourmet products, a large assortment of truffles (black and white) and exceptional foie gras.
Address Book
dining
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris La Maison Plisson
dining on the seine Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau
This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart
Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)
Nicolas
Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French
(€€€)
Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro
The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The three-storey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine
Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)
Vintage&Cie
The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Enjoy an appetizer of crayfish followed by poultry with zucchini flowers, then cheese and dessert. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully
food & wine Fauchon
A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.
La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite
This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. There are several eateries on the premises as well as tasting counters. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette
Exceptional wines are found in this shop, which specialises in grands crus, old vintages and rare wines. The boutique also offers a selection of champagnes and spirits as well as an eclectic range of more accessible wines. Every Thursday evening between 6pm and 8pm the house holds tastings open to the public to discover a wine, champagne or a spirit and the tasting room in the wine cellar can be privatised. The house also offers advice for constituting a wine cellar and private space in its own cellars to store your wine. 199 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.70.98.43. M° Ternes
Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)
A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot
Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)
Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra
Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)
This casual restaurant offers up traditional French
fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted freerange chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides
Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)
This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards
Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)
This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles
Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)
The latest offering from French chef JeanFrançois Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli
Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)
An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli
Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)
The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal
Yachts de Paris | Dining on the Seine (4th) 66 W HE RE Paris I F E B R UA R Y 2018
Vintage & cie | Food & Wine (8th)
Yachts de Paris © Anne Emmanuelle Thion
reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & d: Breakfast, Lunch & dinner.
dining
Address Book
Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)
This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L & D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra
Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)
A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries
Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)
Breakfast in America - American (€€)
For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul
L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)
In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul
L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)
This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers
Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)
This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon
Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal
Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)
This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde
Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)
A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille
QuArtier LAtin & sAint-gerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)
Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)
high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)
Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone
La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)
A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon
Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)
This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel
La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)
A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité
La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)
This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu
Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge
Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)
Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)
The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue
Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)
Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)
The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally
In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.
L’aMBroisie | Haute Cuisine (4th)
au MouLin à Vent | Bistro (5th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 67
dining
Address Book revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel
Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)
Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel
Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)
Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne
Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)
This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)
The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac
Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)
The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau
Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8 ) th
114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)
An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil
39V - Contemporary (€€€)
This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V
Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)
The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte
with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V
Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)
Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)
Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine
Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)
The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil
La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)
This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V
Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)
Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)
Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)
This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau
Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)
Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Monsieur - French (€€€€)
This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V
Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)
Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s
This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers
Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)
Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles
Les Confidences du San Régis - French
Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)
Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau
Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)
This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau
Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)
This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. For starters try the refreshing gazpacho or asparagus with Parmesan cheese and radishes. Main dishes can include salmon with wild rice or a filet of Black Angus beef while cheesecake and a raspberry based pastry
reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & d: Breakfast, Lunch & dinner.
ePicure | Gourmet (8th) 68 W HE RE Paris I F E B R UA R Y 2018
(€€€)
In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau
Lasserre | Classic French (8th)
dining
Address Book are stars of the dessert menu. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V
Around oPérA gArnier & PigALLe (9th, 10th, 18th) Café Pouchkine - Café (€)
This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin
Friends & Family -Bistro (€€€)
This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. For starters sample sautéed mushrooms or creamy butternut squash soup, a delicious main course is the veal cutlet served in the pan and you can wind up with a cheese plate followed by a chocolate mousse flavoured with passion fruit. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle
Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)
Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra
L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)
Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra
Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) East Mamma - Italian (€)
This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes can be ordered for one or for four and are served in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin
Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)
A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon
Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)
A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille
Ober Mamma - Italian (€)
Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf
Septime - Classic French (€€€)
Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne
Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)
This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin
Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet
(€€€)
Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse
Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)
This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles
Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)
One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel
troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)
A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière
L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour
cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna
L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)
This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Makassar - Contemporary (€€)
Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram
Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)
This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna
BeLLeviLLe (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)
Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin
Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)
This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet, 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta
suBurBs not too fAr froM PAris Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)
This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt
ReminiSens - Classic French
(€€€€)
This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.
Friends & FaMiLY | Bistro (9th)
Le Bar à huîtres | Seafood (14th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 69
The Guide
By Sandra Iskander
entertainment
Enjoy cocktails and street art at Fat (page 73)
70 W HE RE PA R I S I F E B R UA R Y 2018
Fat © Anouar Hendrixx
Shows | Musicals | Bars | Cabarets | Nightclubs | Gentlemen’s Clubs
entertainment
Shows
Choreographed Love Opéra Bastille is hosting Benjamin Millepied/Maurice Béjart, a ballet celebrating the music of French composer Maurice Ravel with the two-ballet performance seeing each choreographer interpret the theme of love and seduction. In Daphnis and Chloé, Millepied colourfully tells the triumphant love story of a shepherd and a shepherdess in the face of temptations and threats, while in Boléro Béjart tells the story of a soloist who captivates his audience, seducing them into dance. The ballet’s opening night is on the 24th of February and is playing out through to the 24th of March. Opéra Bastille Place de la Bastille (12th), 08 92 89 90 90
Daphnis et Chlo photo Agathe Poupeney; Bodyguard © Calliz
And I… Will Always Love you. The lyrics of the Whitney Houston song are some of the most famous around the world, and an instant reminder of the singer’s debut film role in The Bodyguard. One of the most popular romantic movies, The Bodyguard, is now coming to the romance capital of the world. From the 2nd of February the musical adaption of the movie will be playing out on the stage of the Palais des Sports, bringing the story of Rachel Marron, played by the late Whitney Houston in the film, and Frank Farmer, played by Kevin Costner, to life. Valérie Daure and Benoît Maréchal step into the iconic roles, taking the audience through their tumultuous love story, with the recordbreaking soundtrack, featuring the hit I Will Always Love You, the breakout star. Palais des Sports 34 blvd Victor (15th), 01 48 28 40 10 Tickets at Fnac w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 71
entertainment Bars
Cosy Chalet Evenings The Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme’s annual winter wonderland has once again been installed and this time around it is in collaboration with the Swiss house IWC Schaffhausen. The ephemeral event sees the hotel’s famous courtyard transformed into a charming Swiss village complete with a quaint chalet. Enter the charming chalet for a traditional winter feast of raclette and mulled wine or perhaps snuggle outside with your chéri in the patio with the chalet as a romantic backdrop. It is recommended to reserve in advance.
Drinks with Rosa A popular spot with Parisians, the Rosa Bonheur sur Seine is a convivial spot for tourists looking to enjoy a couple of drinks all the while taking in the beautiful view of the River Seine. Overlooking the river, Rosa Bonheur is a modern-day guinguette where live music, good old-fashioned fun and cocktails are all on the menu as well as wood fired pizza and tapas. The café bar is open from Wednesday to Sunday, and does not take reservations. Rosa Bonheur sur Seine Port des Invalides (7th) 72 W HE RE Paris I F E B R UA R Y 2018
Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme © David-Emmanuel Cohen; Rosa Bonheur © Alexa Kehailia
Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 71 10 60
entertainment Bars
Cheers to Art
Fat © Anouar Hendrixx
The Marais has just welcomed its very new bar, Fat, and street art fans could not be happier. The new bar is quite the colourful establishment with street art taking centre stage and hip-hop music taking over the sound waves. Open daily, Fat serves up a cocktail menu that mixes up originality and tradition, and with all the cocktails at a modest 10 euros, a rarity in the French capital, it is worth toasting the new bar. Fat also hosts art exhibitions, welcoming street artists to showcase their work, so you can enjoy a cocktail and walk out with an original piece of artwork all in the one place. Fat 8 rue de Beauce (3rd), 01 83 87 99 14
ADVERTORIAL
“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return
to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the
stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves. It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor. Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!
SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH
THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY @ 7PM + SUNDAY @ 6PM
BOOKING
24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 th) M° Grands Boulevards
www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Rated Best theater Performance
Not recommended for kids under 16 years old w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 73
Cabarets
Lido
CRAZY HORSE
PARADIS LATIN
A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.
Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.
www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau
www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu
The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V
74 W HE RE Paris I F E B R UA R Y 2018
MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche
Lido ®PICS-Pascaline LABARRERE
LIDO
entertainment
Shows
Whistling Away
Le Siffleur © Magali Stora
While many of us might whistle when we are happy or simply doing something around the house, Fred Radix, aka Le Siffleur (The Whistler) has turned whistling into an art form. The artist takes the stage every Wednesday to Saturday night at the Grand Point Virgule where he impressively whistles famous songs that range from the light Heigh-Ho from Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs to the more sophisticated Habanera from Carmen. A natural comedian, Radix engages the audience with his humour between numbers and although the jokes are in French his amazing whistling will have you blown away by his unique talent that even if you do not understand French it will not matter as the real show is Le Siffleur whistling. The highlight of the show is the medley at the end where he whistles pieces by Mozart, Chopin and even includes Richard Wagner’s Bridal Chorus. Tickets at Fnac Grand Point Virgule 8bis rue de l’Arrivée (15th), 01 42 78 67 03
Sans titre-5 1
01/06/2017 11:51
Address Book
entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Badaboum
Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille
Buddha Bar
This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde
Bar du Plaza Athénée
Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bar Le Baudelaire
This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine
Experimental Cocktail Bar
A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier
Harry’s New York Bar
This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra
Hotel Costes Bar
This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries
Hotel Providence
Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis
Ice Kube Paris
The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy
Juveniles
This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up
The Ice Kube | Bars & Wine Bars (18th) 76 W HE RE Paris I F E B R UA R Y 2 018
fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides
drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf
Kléber Bar
This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin
High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière
Le Bristol Bar
This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil
Le Bar
The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Bar Long
This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
Moonshiner
Pershing Hall
Hidden away off the Champs-Elysées in a 19th century mansion occupied by General Pershing during World War I, this hotel bar lounge is cosy, fun and serves original cocktails including the SparklingLalique. 49 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.58.36.58.00. M° George V
Prescription Cocktail Club
This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon
The Ballroom
This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles
casino Casinos Barrière
La Closerie des Lilas
The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin
Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar
A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo
Le Lucien Bar
Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V
Le Rubis
This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides
Les Jardins du Pont Neuf
With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a
France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord
jazz clubs Caveau de la Huchette
This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel
Duc des Lombards
One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet
Jazz Club Etoile
A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel
Duc Des LombarDs | Jazz Clubs (16th)
Duc des Lombards ©Philippe Marchin
bars & wine bars
entertainment
Address Book
Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot
New Morning
The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau
Gentlemen’s clubs The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Secret Square
The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes
This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse
Les Bains
This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau
Pachamama
niGht clubs L’Arc Paris
Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Le Baron
You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau
Le Duplex
Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty
Pachamama ©Matthieu Salvaing
Le Montana
Le Social Club
Pink Paradise
Le Mona Lisa
clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli
This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille
Palais Maillot
A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot
Queen Club
This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V
Pachamama
| Night Clubs (12th)
Raspoutine
This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V
Silencio
This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards
Titty Twister
This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V
Vanity Paris
This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides
VIP Room
One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal
maGical & opera shows Le Bel Canto
Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie
Le Double Fond
This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul
Le mona LIsa
| Night Clubs (1st)
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The Guide
services
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris eurostar & trains
medical services
Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes
American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,
before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com
SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying
stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.
limousines Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44
Paris districts
92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge - 74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge
rental cars & scooters
Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr
tax refund When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.
1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens. 2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.
3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will
find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.
6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.
7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay. 8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops. 9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann. 10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.
hair salons
real estate agencies
Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8 ), th
01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde 78 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Coldwell Banker - 8 rue Lamennais (8th), 01.83.53.53.53. M° George V Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde
11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.
13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The
Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.
16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower. 18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge. 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s
famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.
Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion st Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (4246 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean rey, 7th, rEr Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take rEr B (9.50€) or catch the roissybus (10€) at 11 rue scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr
TO ORLY AIRPORT
TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT
The rEr B, direction st-rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The rEr C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the Denfert-rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris aéroport buses leave from the arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean rey, 7th, rEr Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La MottePicquet (88 ave de suffren, 15th, M° La MottePicquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr
Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TEr train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.
TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly airport/departures from Orly airport to Charles de Gaulle airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. also rEr B from Charles de Gaulle to the antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from antony and Orly sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com
advertorial
L’Ibis Rouge, the luxury vintage boutique This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery by Chanel, Lanvin, YSL, Christian Lacroix… You will also find a fine selection of vintage crocodile bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers. 35 Blvd Raspail (7th) M° Sèvres-Babylone Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 Open from Tuesday to Saturday 12 - 7pm ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr Libisrouge
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Visitors Bureau reception teams, documentation and bookings are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centres. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 25 rue des Pyramides (1st), M° Pyramides. Opening Hours: From November 1st to april 30th, 10am to 7pm. Other branches include Gare du Nord (10th), Gare de l’Est (10th), Paris Rendez-vous (4th) M° Hôtel de Ville and Montmartre/Anvers (18th) M° Anvers. www.parisinfo.com
Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room. English, French, Spanish spoken.
7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05
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Services
Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?
80 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2018
Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.
Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.
“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.
While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.
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My Paris
CATHY NAVEAUX
HEAD CONCIERGE AT MANDARIN ORIENTAL PARIS
Musée Rodin
Maison Blanche
Pont des Arts
What would you recommend to visitors who are looking for 24 hours of romance in the City of Love? Start your day with a traditional French pastry and a coffee or tea at the Sébastien Gaudard pastry shop next to the Tuileries. Walk through the Tuileries Garden, along the Right Bank and over the bridge to the Isle de la Cité, situated in the centre of the Seine, to discover the Square Vert-Galant, the Sainte Chapelle, the Conciergerie and Notre-Dame. Enjoy an intimate and relaxing afternoon in one of our couple’s suites at the Mandarin Oriental Spa where a variety of treatments tailor-made for the both of you are offered. Have dinner on the River Seine aboard Yachts de Paris followed by one last drink in the romantic Jazz Club Chez Papa in Saint-Germain.
Thierry Marx masterpiece not to be missed.
What are your top 5 most romantic restaurants? Le Pré Catelan, this 3-star Michelin restaurant is the perfect place for a romantic surprise in the heart of the Bois de Boulogne. La Maison Blanche, which offers an incredibly romantic view over the rooftops of Paris. Les Yachts de Paris, where you can sip a glass of Champagne before enjoying a memorable dinner aboard an elegant and intimate yacht. La Truffière, a historical restaurant from the 17th century known for its fire place and romantic atmosphere. Camelia, offering exquisite tastes and a striking yet relaxed design, it’s a
Is there somewhere in the city that surprised you in how romantic it is/or could be? La Promenade Plantée on the top of the Viaduc des Arts. It’s always surprising to discover this hidden garden that spans 4.7 kilometres starting at the top of an old viaduct. Take the time to discover the fine arts boutiques and workshops under the arches of the viaduct.
82 W HE RE PA R I S I F E B R UA R Y 2018
In your opinion, what is the most romantic place in Paris? It has to be the banks of the River Seine. Day or night, a stroll along the Seine is always memorable from bridge to bridge and monument to monument. The best thing is that more and more parts of the banks are becoming for pedestrians only so couples can enjoy more romantic strolls. What has been the most romantic thing you have had to organise for a guest? A wedding proposal at the top of the Arc de Triomphe surrounded by an illuminated City of Love while the Eiffel Tower was sparkling in all its glory.
From where would you recommend a couple take in the best and most romantic view of Paris? Musée des Arts Décoratifs from the 7th floor. Here you can discover the Tuileries Garden,
Place Vendôme
the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower from a unique angle through one of the ox-eye windows. Which boutique would you recommend if one of your guests were looking to purchase a special gift? Around Place Vendôme you will find the most beautiful boutiques such as Vacheron Constantin and the brand-new Louis Vuitton shop. For a different experience, walk under the lesser-known yet outstanding covered passages and find the perfect gift in one of the charming boutiques such as Caves Legrand and La Marelle. Which bar would you recommend for a romantic nightcap? Le Très Particulier. It’s situated inside a secret hotel not too far from Le Sacré Coeur.
My Perfect Romantic Day 9am: Breakfast at Claus. 12pm: Wondering around the oldest food market in Paris, Marché des Enfants Rouges, and having lunch at one of the numerous stands. 3pm: Visiting the Rodin Museum and its garden. 9pm: Le Christine after a classical Concert at the Sainte-Chapelle.
where
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Your Guide to the World
Maison Blanche © Maison Blanche; Place Vendôme iStock 2018 © KoCsAti; Pont des Arts, iStock 2018 © KovalenkovPetr; Musée Rodin, iStock 2018 © zen jung
Mandarin Oriental Spa
© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2018 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499
LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 175E - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77E - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM 175E - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM 77E
MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM