Where Paris magazine, April 2018

A P RIL 2 0 18

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 291

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A PARISIAN PAUSE

Discover the Fashion & the Arts FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

April PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

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PARIS | CONTENTS

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

The guide 16 SHOPPING

The latest trends and the hottest fashions

A Secret Selection

Go on a tour of the city’s eclectic museums

44 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 58 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 70 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 78 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings A P RIL 2 0 18 Issue N o 291

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

A PARISIAN PAUSE

Discover the Fashion & the Arts FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

WP AVRIL 18 COVER TEST 5.indd 3

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ON THE COVER

Turn to page 26 for our A Night at the Museum photo shoot.

Photo © Marc Martinon

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Paris boasts an extraordinary number of museums that are wellknown around the world, but there are also lesser-known cultural

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6 W HE R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

April

HOT DATES Discover the best of April in Paris

The Art of Help THROUGH TO APRIL 4 Buy art and help a good cause at YellowKorner where proceeds from Arno Elias’s I’m Not a Trophy photos of model Cara Delevingne go towards the artist’s I’m Not a Trophy association that helps protect animals in danger of extinction.

8 W HE R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

8 rue des Francs-Bourgeois (3rd), 01 42 77 08 43

PARIS THIS MONTH

Hats Off Happy Birthday Eliana. Chavoo Big x. Cara Lion Photo © Arno Elias; Pat Cleveland et Donna Jordan, 1972 © Peter Knapp; Ursula Andress, Rolls & chauffeur, Dublin, 3 novembre 1965 © Claude Azoulay; Ritz Photo © Quentin Bertoux pour Artcurial

THROUGH TO APRIL 28

Dancing in the Street ALL MONTH

Another fashionable photo exhibition is taking place at the 2ArtsAngels gallery in collaboration with Galerie Anne & Just Jaeckin. The exhibition, Chapeau! (Hat!), will treat you to a fabulous defilé of hats, worn by some of the world’s most famous heads including Ursula Andress, Brigitte Bardot and Kirk Douglas, as photographed by Claude Azoulay. The gallery is open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 2 to 7pm.

19 rue Guénégaud (6th), 01 43 26 73 65

Admirers of fashion photography will be happy to learn that the Cité de la Mode et du Design is hosting an exhibition showcasing photographs by Peter Knapp.

The show, Dancing in the Street Peter Knapp et la Mode – Années 1960-1970, brings together stunning images captured by the Swiss artist during a time that marked a turning point in fashion.

34 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01 76 77 25 30

Under the Hammer FROM APRIL 17 TO 21 You can take away a piece of the Ritz with you by bidding on an item from the famous hotel. Going under the hammer at the Artcurial auction house are 3500 lots of furniture and objects that made up the décor of the prestigious hotel but were not returned to their home after the hotel reopened after years of renovations.

The auction will be held from the 17th to the 21st with an exhibition held from the 12th to the 16th, inviting you to view the previously loved pieces.

7 Rond-Point des ChampsElysées (8th), 01 42 99 20 20

Musical Shopping FROM APRIL 11 Galeries Lafayette will be soundtracking your shopping experience thanks to French DJ Pedro Winter. From today the Parisian department store will be hosting Music Machines, organising live concerts throughout the store through to the 24th of June, creating quite the musical event for all shoppers.

40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 9

PARIS THIS MONTH

Coffee Hit ALL MONTH Start your day the French way with coffee and croissants, but do it the Lenôtre way with its limited edition coffee croissant. The famous house’s chef, Guy Krenzer, has created a coffee-flavoured menu with an éclair, chocolate and the famous French buttery crescent to help you start your day on the right note. The pastry chef’s version of the croissant hides a coffee cream, giving you the perfect caffeine dose.

Available at all Lenôtre boutiques including 36 ave de la Motte-Picquet (7th), 01 45 55 71 25

Trade Shows & Art Fairs APRIL 4-8 PAD - PARIS ART + DESIGN This is a unique art show in the Tuileries Gardens bringing together leading galleries and art dealers and attracting collectors from throughout the world to see a diversity of displays of 20th century decorative arts, contemporary design, rarely shown works, art jewellery and more. The show is open from 11am to 8pm. www.pad-fairs.com. Jardin des Tuileries, 113 rue de Rivoli (1st)

APRIL 5-7 LE SALON DU RUNNING This athletic show brings together some 220 exhibitors from the world of running. The show is geared towards all runners from professionals to beginners and joggers. There are two exhibitions this year, one devoted to innovations in running equipment and the other looking at running fashions of the past 50 years. The show is open from 3pm to 9pm on the 5th, 10am to 9pm on the 6th and from 9am to 7pm on the 7th. www.salondurunning.fr. Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

APRIL 13-15 SALON INTERNATIONAL DU LIVRE RARE & DE L’OBJET D’ART This show reveals treasures of our collective cultural heritage through a host of documents including rare books, illuminated manuscripts, musical scores, travel logs, maps, photographs and exceptional objects of historic and artistic value in a range of specialties including archaeology, tribal art and fashion. Among the exhibitions this year is a show of photographs, drawings and engravings from the collections of France’s national library. The show is open from 11am to 9pm on the 13th, until 8pm on the 14th and until 7pm on the 15th. www.salondulivrerare.paris. Grand Palais, 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th)

APRIL 14-15 SALON CHIENS CHATS

Go Flying ALL MONTH Get a spectacular bird’s eye view of Paris with FlyView, the recently launched virtual reality experience found in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a jetpack and go flying over the city, giving you a view of it and its iconic monuments like you’ve never seen them before. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. Reserve your place at www.flyview360.com.

30 rue du 4 Septembre (2nd)

Easter Egg Hunt APRIL 1 Treat the kids to a chocolate Easter egg hunt at the La Belle Juliette Hotel & Spa between 3 and 5pm today. While you enjoy high tea at the Clos Belle Juliette restaurant let the kids run around looking for the hidden Jadis et Gourmande chocolate eggs and Easter bunnies. You can sign up the kids for the hunt directly at the hotel.

92 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01 42 22 97 40 10 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 20 18

This show presents diverse breeds of dogs and cats as well as offering educational tools to understand your pet. The show also presents the latest in leashes, collars, baskets, travelling bags and all of the accessories your dog or cat has ever dreamed of. Visitors may not bring their own pets to the fair. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.salonchienschats.com Espace Champerret, 6 rue Jean Oestreicher (17th)

APRIL 20-22 SALON SUGAR PARIS This show, dedicated to the art of cake design, brings together the best in decorative pastry-making and creative gourmet leisure activities.

Some 100 exhibitors from all over the world are on hand along with 100 works of pastries that are works of art in and of themselves. The largest cake accessory market in France, competitions, demonstrations, exhibitions and workshops round out the programme. The show is open from 9am to 6pm. www.salon-sugar.com. Parc Floral, Route de la Pyramide (12th)

APRIL 27-30 FOIRE DE PARIS This vast fair, over 100 years young, is the greatest place in Paris to shop for just about anything. There are unique items for the home, for sport and leisure, well-being as well as fashion and food from around the world. The Concours Lépine International, the international invention competition, is held during the fair, and live shows featuring Caribbean music and dance are held throughout the day. This year the garden is being showcased with objects, accessories and gear for terraces, balconies, swimming pools and more.

The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.foiredeparis.fr Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

www.redline-boutique.com

A Secret Selection

By Patricia Valicenti

12 W HE RE PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Brûle-parfum ajouré, cuivre et or, Dynastie des Qing (XVIIe s. – XXe s. apr. J.-C.), musée de Shanghai © Musée de Shanghai; Musée Cognacq-Jay Photo © Pierre Antoine / Musée Cognacq-Jay

Museums

This page: The Hôtel Donon, which houses the Musée Cognacq-Jay Opposite page: The perfume burner in copper and gold, dating from the Qing Dynasty, is on show at the incense exhibition at the Musée Cernuschi

B

eyond the well-known and frequented cultural offerings and museums, Paris and the greater Paris region are home to a genuine secret garden of out of the ordinary and highly original venues for a vivifying visit. There are private mansions tucked away behind inviting facades housing unique collections of 18th century art offering a glimpse into the lifestyle in France during this period, the arts and archaeology of the exotic Far East and you can explore the worlds of playing cards, magic and Freemasonry or take a journey through a haunted manor house where the legends of Paris come alive.

An intriguing collection of playing cards is to be found at the Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer (The French Museum of Playing Cards) tucked away in the nearby suburb of Issy-les-Moulineaux. It all began back in 1930 with an exceptional donation of playing cards to the town. Today, over 11,000 ensembles of playing cards can be discovered in the museum, which also houses a gallery devoted to the history of Issy-les-Moulineaux. Various themes are explored in the cards including regional portraits of France, the French Revolution as well as those depicting portraits of Germany, Italy and Spain. There are also a number of cards from China, India and Japan with original shapes and content along with a presentation of rules and regulations for card playing and the universe of the card player. Meanwhile, in the historical portion of the museum there is a temporary exhibition showing all month and running through to May 20th devoted to the French sculptor Auguste Rodin, who had a home and studio in the nearby town of Meudon, and his mould-maker Paul Cruet whose studio was located in Issy-les-Moulineaux. The show brings together Rodin’s sculptures and photographs and offers a glimpse into the moulding process and the important role of the mould-maker. The museum is also equipped with an outdoor terrace open on weekends for drinks, lunch, brunch or a snack.

A fun and enlightening stop for the whole family is to be found in the Marais at the Académie de Magie-Georges Proust, a museum devoted to magic.

The world of illusionists from the 18th century to the present is played out in this unique museum in which your guides are magicians themselves.

Created by the magician and publisher of books on magic, Georges Proust in 1993, the museum of seven exhibition rooms houses wands, secret boxes, magician hats, posters, engravings and objects recounting the history of magic and magicians. In addition to the collections devoted to magic and related fields like hypnotism and fakirism, the museum also houses a collection of over 100 working automata, which are both toys and masterpieces of mechanics, and with an interactive system, the visitor is able to activate each automaton. The visit to the museum winds up with a magic show and there is a boutique on the premises selling magic items and gear, and on Saturdays you can even take in general magic lessons with separate courses for adults and children.

Meanwhile, the myths and legends of Paris come alive in the Manoir de Paris, an atypical venue ensconced in a 19th century edifice listed as a historical monument. The Manoir offers up a genuine show, which is diverting and at times frightening as the visit embarks on a journey through the centuries to the Paris of the catacombs, the Père Lachaise cemetery, the towers of Notre-Dame and more. Some 30 professional actors bring to life emblematic Parisian figures of lore, legend or rooted in reality including the Hunchback of Notre-Dame, the Phantom of the Opera, and the Man in the Iron Mask, the Bloody Barber and the French serial killer Landru. The pathway of legends leads the visitor to the Royal Hôtel Paradis with its haunted and horror movie-like ambiance. This rather sinister establishment is replete with sumptuous decors, dark hallways, two-way mirrors and mysterious silhouettes encountered in the light of twilight. You can also play Skeleton Key, the venue’s escape game, for an adventure-filled 60 minutes. The Manoir de Paris will be w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 13

A highly intriguing museum can be discovered within the Grand Orient de France, a Masonic Obedience founded in France in the 18th century. The Musée de la Franc-Maçonnerie (Museum of Freemasonry) devoted to freemasonry offers a journey into the history and culture of Freemasonry particularly in France through a chronological and thematic presentation of some 700 objects and documents selected on a rotating basis from a reserve of 10,000. Among the objects on hand are a copy of James Anderson’s 18th century the Constitutions of the Freemasons, a history of the Freemasons, as well as Freemason General Lafayette’s sword, the apron of Voltaire (who was in the same Lodge as Ben Franklin, Les Neufs Soeurs, a name inspired by the Nine Muses) and a small statue of the Statue of Liberty as the real Statue of Liberty was designed by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, also a Freemason.

There is also a fine collection of tableware decorated with Masonic symbols and glassware attesting to the great tradition of banquets (agapes) and fraternity associated with Freemasonry. The museum has a space for temporary exhibitions, which during the month of April will be devoted to a contemporary artist. It is highly recommended to take one of the Saturday guided tours, which include fully commentated visits to some of the order’s magnificent temples as well as of the museum. Group visits of 15 people or more can be organised as well and could include a meal in the Grand Orient’s panoramic restaurant.

The Musée Cernuschi, the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia, is housed in a beautifully appointed private mansion that belonged to the Italian patriot and financier Henri Cernuschi who was also a traveller and collector. The museum, which opened to the public in 1898, houses a rich collection of nearly 14,000 objects emanating from China, Japan, Vietnam and Korea and the museum is regarded as a place of reference for the art and archaeology of ancient China exhibiting a large panorama from this period ranging from the Neolithic to the Song Dynasty, which ruled from 960 to 1279. In the 1950s the museum embarked on a policy of collecting works of living Asian arts like Japanese calligraphy and contemporary Chinese painting and today has one of the leading collections in Europe in this domain. The ground floor is devoted to the permanent collections while the first floor hosts temporary exhibitions. Currently on for the entire month and running through to August 26th is a show exploring the history and use of perfume and incense in Imperial China. Entitled Parfums de Chine, La Culture de l’Encens au Temps des Empereurs, the exhibition brings together some 110 objects exploring the art of incense and perfume in China from the 3rd century B.C. to the 19th century. Ceramic pieces, drawings, bronzes and canvases emanating from the collection of the Shanghai Museum and being shown in Europe for the first time are accompanied by some 20 pieces from the collections of the Musée Cernuschi. The show is enhanced with an olfactory experience in which scents of the various dynasties have 14 W HE R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Académie de Magie Photo © Gaston Bergeret - Musée de la Magie; French Playing Card Museum Photo © Ville d’Issy-les-Moulineaux; The Groussier Temple Photo © musée de la franc-maçonnerie

holding one of its celebrated Dark Nights on Friday the 13th of April during which the visit takes place in complete darkness.

been re-interpreted from ancient Chinese recipes by François Demachy, the perfume creator of the House of Dior Parfums, which has given its support to the exhibition.

A voyage into the 18th century unfolds inside the Musée Cognacq-Jay located in an authentic private mansion in the Marais. The founder of the historic Parisian department store, La Samaritaine, Ernest Cognacq and his wife MarieLouise Jaÿ, brought the unique collection of art and objects together. Ernest Cognacq particularly appreciated the art of the 18th century, which was popular in upper middle class homes of the Belle Epoque and towards the end of the 19th century he would acquire works by the leading artists of this period, among them Boucher, Fragonard, Canaletto and Tiepolo. He also collected small objects from this period and today the collection is composed of 1169 works ranging from pastels to paintings, bronzes, furniture and porcelain all of which, aside from rare exceptions, come down from the 18th century. The collection was donated by the Cognacq-Jay family to the city of Paris in 1928 and has been housed in the Hôtel Donon, a 17th century private mansion since 1990. Within, the visitor embarks on a journey into what appears to be a home, a home in an 18th century state of mind when social and cultural exchanges and the art of living were fundamental aspects of society. Among the works and objects that can be admired for example is an 18th century decorative elephant, which serves as a potpourri holder, a bright blue porcelain sitting cat made during the Qing dynasty at the end of the 18th century or the painting, The Banquet of Cleopatra, a masterpiece by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo.

ADDRESS BOOK ACADEMIE DE MAGIE Wed, Sat and Sun from 2pm to 7pm 11 rue Saint-Paul (4th), 01 42 72 13 26 LE MANOIR DE PARIS Fri from 6pm to 10pm & Sat and Sun from 3pm to 7pm 18 rue de Paradis (10th), 06 70 89 35 87 MUSEE CERNUSCHI Tues to Sun from 10am to 6pm 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01 53 96 21 50 MUSEE COGNACQJAY Tues to Sun from 10am to 6pm 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01 40 27 07 21

Manoir de Paris Photo © Manoir H

MUSEE DE LA FRANCMACONNERIE Tues to Sun from 10am to 12:30pm and 2pm to 6pm & Sat from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 7pm with guided visits of the temples and museum at 2:30pm and 4pm 16 rue Cadet (9th), 01 45 23 74 09 MUSEE FRANCAIS DE LA CARTE A JOUER Wed, Thurs and Fri from 11am to 5pm & Sats and Sun from 2pm to 6pm 16 rue Auguste Gervais, 92130 Issy-les-Moulineaux, 01 41 23 83 60

Opposite page (from top): The exhibition spaces at the Académie de Magie, an ensemble of playing cards at the French Playing Card Museum and the Groussier Temple inside the Musée de la Franc-Maçonnerie.

This page: A bewitching witch at the Manoir de Paris w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15

The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

For Her | Accessories | For Him | Easter Treats | Beauty Buys | Department Stores

Kate Moss wearing sunglasses from the new Alain Mikli x Alexandre Vauthier collection (page 19)

16 WH ER E PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

SHOPPING

For Her

From Mini Me to Maxi Me Popular ready-to-wear brand for children Bonton has flipped the trend occasionally taken on by other brands and instead of looking for adult designs to inspire mini-me ones, the French brand has looked into its children’s collection to launch its very first women’s collection, Maxi Me. The capsule collection is made up of 25 pieces all taken from the children’s collection, letting mothers mirror their little girls’ looks. Floral skirts, denim overalls and colourful knits are some of the pieces making up the very cute mummy and me collection.

Bonton Boutique 5 blvd des Filles du Calvaire (3rd), 01 42 72 34 69

Frenchy Berets While it is a common cliché to imagine Parisians parading around in berets, there is nothing cliché about Laulhère’s collection of the trademark Parisian headpiece. Made in France, Laulhère’s berets are made with the finest wool and are not only available in a variety of colours but also in different designs that stray away from the classic plain black beret including a dainty pearl version.

And while the French house is synonymous with berets to bring fashionistas a new take on the French headwear, the house has also introduced the fisherman’s cap into its collection that is available in an array of colours including baby pink and vanilla white.

Laulhère Boutique 14 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 65 90 59 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 17

SHOPPING For Her

Getting ready for the Sun Inspired by her home country, swimsuit designer Tatiane de Freitas has created a line of swimsuits for this year that brings the colours of the Copacabana beach to France. Based in Lyon, the designer has combined the flair of Brazil and the French savoir-faire to bring us one-piece and two-piece suits in vibrant colours and sexy ruffles. Understanding that ladies also love to go from the beach to dinner when on summer vacations, Tatiane has also included pieces in her collection that will easily double as a sexy top worn with shorts or a skirt. The Josephine design is also the ideal choice for ladies who like to lounge around without exposing too much skin in the sun, offering great cover-up with high fashion.

Available at Printemps 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 55 96

Bohemian Looks Joining creative forces with Ukrainian designer Vita Kin, swimwear brand Eres has just launched a capsule collection of five dresses to be worn over your swimsuit or alone. Inspired by Ukraine’s national dress, the iconic vyshyvanka dress, the linen dresses are beautifully embroidered with Aztec and floral patterns, bringing the bohemian vibe to the pool. Using pompoms and decorative belts, the traditional dress is given a modern twist and using a colour palette of white, red, blue and gold, the dresses have been designed to complement the latest Eres collection of swimwear to a tee.

Eres Boutique 2 rue Tronchet (8th), 01 47 42 28 82 18 WH ER E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

SHOPPING

Accessories

Dedicated to Specs French luxury house Dior has recently inaugurated its first boutique dedicated to glasses in the French capital. With the accessory playing a major role in fashion, making statements and complementing a certain ensemble, the boutique puts on show a plethora of glasses as far as the eye can see to choose from. Adding to the house’s stake on the glamorous shopping avenue, Dior has created a space that is both in tune with its other boutiques on the avenue as well as individual in design to show off its take on glasses.

Dior boutique ® Raphaël Dautigny; Alain Mikli x Alexandre Vauthier - Kate Moss - Edwidge Jeweled

Dior Boutique 28 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 45 63 12 51

Bold Looks Debuting on the catwalk during Paris Couture week in January, the Alain Mikli x Alexandre Vauthier collection of sunglasses is the fabulous amalgamation of two names, spec experts Alain Mikli, and French fashion designer, Alexandre Vauthier, who brings his flair and fantasy to the creation of the sunglasses. The result is a striking collection that includes a futuristic, Matrix-inspired pair, the Edwidge, while the Roselyne is more of an orthodox chic in a Jackie O style, ensuring every fashionista has a new pair of sunglasses to suit her look.

Alain Mikli Boutique 74 rue des Saint-Pères (7th), 01 45 49 40 00 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19

SHOPPING For Him

He’s famous for his signature avant-garde designs, and this season designer Yohji Yamamoto defines just that with his spring/summer 2018 collection for men. Billowing pants, oversized jackets and slogan prints make up the rather colourful collection although of course there is a lot of black, the designer’s go-to shade. The collection also features biker jackets that bear beautiful images of women on the back, a poetic detail to the grungier style of the jacket.

Clean, simple and balanced lines are the hallmarks of the latest Seamaster Aqua Terra Collection for gentlemen from Omega. The cases of these new Aqua Terra models have been re-shaped offering a new symmetrical design while the date window has been moved from 3 o’clock to 6 o’clock echoing the very first Omega watch outfitted with a date window, which was released in 1952. The allure of these timepieces resides in the teak dial modelled after the decks of luxury yachts and the watches are equipped with one of the Omega Master Chronometer calibres 8900, 8901, 8800 or 8939 for the limited edition, movements that have attained the highest level of precision, performance and magnetic resistance. The star of the collection is the eye-catching Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Master Chronometer Limited Edition (pictured) with its 43mm platinum and gold case featuring on its dial international destinations, including Bienne, the Swiss city where Omega was born, and a hand-made world map in enamel. The timepiece has been brought out in a limited edition of 87 pieces and is water resistant to 150 metres. -P.V.

Yohji Yamamoto Boutique 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01 40 20 00 71

Omega Boutique 35 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01 40 15 12 20

Yohji Men

20 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Yohji Yamamoto pour Homme Model Theo Derville - Photo Monica Feudi

Of Earth and Sea

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Tailored Trousers

J

MADE IN FRANCE

anssens, the specialist in bespoke women’s trousers, just opened her boutique at 93 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in the 8th arrondissement.

Philippine studied at the Académie Internationale de la Coupe in Paris. She is also the granddaughter of a couturière in the French fashion world, and her mother founded the haute couture fabric Maison Janssens & Janssens.

This all comes together in her work to create the ideal trouser—perfect cuts and ultra-fine measurements, along with a wide selection of fabrics, stylistic details and custom options make for a unique pantalon with an impeccable fit.

The end result? Custom designed, and Made in France, trousers with a design that will complement every silhouette. Timeless models as well as more audacious designs are all possible by just letting yourself be guided

by your desires and by Philippine Janssens’s imagination.

In Spring 2018, Philippine is launching her first capsule wardrobe with three fabrics and three exclusive style touches that will be offered every season.

Philippine Janssens’s permanent corner will also be opening on February 26 in the Savoir-Faire area at the Bon Marché Rive Gauche, marking a brand-new chapter in made-tomeasure trousers.

PHILIPPINE JANSSENS - Made-to-measure trousers Flagship store 93 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - 8th Paris T/ + 33 1 42 65 43 90 www.philippinejanssens.com By appointment only Tuesday through Saturday, from 10am to 6:30pm Express orders possible Bon Marché (corner) 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris T/ + 33 1 44 39 80 00 Open - Closes 8pm By appointment only Monday through Saturday, from 10am to 6:30pm Express orders possible JANSSENS ET JANSSENS - Haute Couture Fabrics 3 rue d’Anjou, 8th Paris T/ + 33 1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com Monday through Saturday, from 10am to 6:30pm w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21

SHOPPING For Him

Rugby Fashion It’s the ready-to-wear brand that is synonymous with rugby and now Eden Park has collaborated with leading sportswear brand Adidas to bring fashionable sports fans a capsule collection to rival any other. Designed with the sporty gentleman in mind, the collection brings to bomber jackets, hoodies and polo shirts the savoir-faire of Adidas when it comes to designing durable sportswear and Eden Park’s fashion knowhow. The collection also features a standout piece, the Predator rugby boot, designed with Eden Park’s emblematic pink bowtie, which appears to cascade towards the front of the boot.

Globetrotting Gentlemen High-end fashion brand Paul Smith has teamed up with Globe-Trotter, the luxury luggage brand, and together they have brought their design know-how to design a limited edition suitcase. Available from the 19th of April in the Paul Smith boutiques in the French capital including the boutique on the very chic Rue Saint-Honoré, the collaboration sees Globe-Trotter’s iconic Centenary 20th CarryOn Trolley bag be given Paul Smith’s colourful touch with the designer’s signature “Artist Stripe”. The retro-inspired suitcase sees its dark blue hard case skilfully brought to modern day with the rainbow of colours subtly adorning each corner and handle.

Paul Smith Boutique 223 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 68 27 10 22 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Rubyman Dan Carter Photo Courtesy of Eden Park; Paul Smith Bag © Globe-Trotter

Eden Park Boutique 11 rue Lobineau (6th), 01 43 25 02 25

G A L E R I ES L A FAY E T T E PA R I S H AU S S M A N N

LA DESTINATION MODE* Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, of fers more han 3,500 brands from af fordable to the most prestigious references amongst which Chanel, Christian Dior, Cartier, Saint Laurent Paris, Dolce & Gabbana, Fauré Lepage, Messika, Céline, Bulgari, Rolex, Fendi, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Boucheron…

FRENCH WINE AND CHEESE TASTING IN THE HEART OF PARIS

SHOPPING, ELEGANCE AND STYLE!

MACAROON-MAKING WORKSHOP IN THE HEART OF PARIS

What would France be without its fine wines a n d dis t in c t i ve c h e e s e s? E x p l o re t h e s e essentials guided by a sommelier, in a unique, hidden setting inside the Parisian Department Store, in the heart of the Opera district. In a session lasting 1 and a half hours, you will taste 2 carefully selected white wines and 2 red wines, paired with 4 local cheeses, t o h e l p y o u g e t t o k n o w Fr e n c h g r a p e varieties and familiarise yourself with their attributes.

For this Spring -Summer 2018 collection, fashion is celebrating the return of disco colours! The trend shines like a star of the 80s, becoming instantly more sensual with nude colours and draped styles to wrap yourself up in. This style is cropping up in the Galeries L a fay e t t e b y L a e t i t ia I va n ez c o ll e c t i o n, Celine, Kenzo, Zadig & Voltaire, COS, Claudie Pierlot, Maje, Sandro, Bash and many more.

Dip your toe into an essential component of France’s reputation: Pâtisserie. Guided by our Head Pastry Chef, you can learn the secrets of making the famous Macaroon in a workshop lasting 1 and a half hours.

In the heart of the Opera district, in a unique, hidden location inside Galeries Lafayette, you will learn how to make macaroon shells, f illin g a n d ga r nis h e s. O n c e as s e m b l e d, feel free to taste your own creations there and then and try to recreate them again at home!

Alcohol abuse is harmful to your health. Drink in moderation.

For your health avoid eating too much fat, sugar and salt. www.mangerbouger.fr

GALERIES L AFAYET TE PARIS HAUSSMANN: 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN, 75009 PARIS

METRO: CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - L A FAYET TE

Open every day from 9.30 am to 8.30 pm and on Sunday from 11 am to 7 pm. Ouvert tous les jours de 9h30 à 20h30 et le dimanche de 11h à 19h. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 - haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en *The ultimate shopping destination

SHOPPING

Easter Treats

HAPPY

Easter

It wouldn’t be Easter without treating children to some, or a lot, of chocolate, and in the French capital chocolate doesn’t get any better than these edible creations from the city’s most talented chocolatiers and pastry chefs.

Pierre Hermé has cracked the traditional chocolate egg to reveal creamy milk chocolate with notes of caramel.

Pierre Hermé, 72 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01 43 54 47 77

Nicolas Cloiseau at Maison du Chocolat has found Nemo and turned his heart into a delicious almond and milk chocolate praline.

Maison du Chocolat, 8 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01 47 42 86 52

Christophe Adam is celebrating Easter with rubber ducky-inspired chocolate in a multitude of colours that come in dark, milk, and white chocolate.

L’Eclair de Génie, 14 rue Pavée (4th), 01 42 77 85 11

24 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

One of France’s most famous confectioners, Mazet, is serving up its signature praline chocolate in a carton of eggs this Easter.

Maison de la Prasline Mazet 37 rue des Archives (4th), 01 44 05 18 08

Shangri-La Hotel, Paris - 2018 -MD © Romeo Balancourt; La Maison du Chocolat © La Maison du Chocolat

Michaël Bartocetti at the Shangri-La Hotel has transformed a chocolate egg into a vintage plane made with dark chocolate and which comes complete with its pilot with a heart of creamy praline.

La Bauhinia, Shangri-La Hotel, 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01 53 67 19 91

SHOPPING

Beauty

Our Favourite Beauty Buys this Month ction e f r e P g n Blendi

The iconic beautyblender’s unique egg-shape works to give you maximum coverage using both liquid foundation and powder, and with the blender filling up on water before placing your product on it there is less absorption of your product and less product is wasted.

The blendSMART Rotating Foundation Brush does all the work for you and blends in your foundation by working in a circular motion, applying your foundation evenly on your face.

Sephora’s Silicon Makeup Sponge is perfect to apply concealer and liquid foundation and because it is made with silicone there is no product wastage.

All three products are available at Sephora

nts Rosy Sce

Nails Metallic

Pour Toujours’s Vers Dharamsala blends roses with notes of black tea and cardamom to create an exotic rose scent.

Available at Rosebud Florist/Boutique 4 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01 43 29 66 47

Essie’s Spellbound is a metallic green to standout from in a mani/pedi crowd.

Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50

Room 1015’s Hollyrose sees notes of black pepper, rose and leather come together for an intoxicatingly sexy perfume.

Available at Liquides 9 rue de Normandie (3rd), 09 66 94 77 06

Nailmatic’s Bonnie will add glitter to your golden nails.

Available at Printemps 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00

Roger & Gallet’s Rose Imaginaire is a blend of patchouli, orange and juniper, creating a rose scent with no roses, an imaginary rose, the Rose Imaginaire.

Roger & Gallet Boutique 195 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 10 68

Marionnaud’s Silver Paradise is the perfect polish to complement your platinum jewels.

Marionnaud Boutique 59 rue des Petits-Champs (1st), 01 42 96 00 24 w w w.wh ere t r ave l e r. com 25

Shopping Fashion

A Night at the Museum Photographer: Marc Martinon Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Photographer’s Assistant: Tao Douay Make-Up Artist & Hairstylist: Julie Mandin from Naher Model: Olesia Nikitenki from UP Models Special thanks to MusÊe National Jean-Jacques Henner

26 W H E R E PA r i s i A P r i L 2 01 8

Salvatore Ferragamo dress Qeelin Wulu Lace white gold, diamond and ruby necklace w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 27

Marina Rinaldi dress Chopard Haute Joaillerie white gold and diamond rings and L’Heure du Diamant white gold and diamond necklace and earrings

28 W H E R E PA r i s i A P r i L 2018

Liu Jo dress Giuseppe Zanotti shoes Djula Dear Beauty white gold and diamond cuff bracelet, Grace K white gold and diamond earrings and Graphic white gold and diamond choker w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 29

Guy Laroche dress Gianvito Rossi shoes Mikimoto white gold, diamond and Akoya pearl necklace Mikimoto Half and Half white gold and diamond earrings Damiani Mimosa white gold and diamond ring 30 W HER E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

All Saints dress Chaumet Promenades ImpĂŠriales white and pink gold necklace, ring and bracelet with Padparadscha sapphires and diamonds w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 31

Escada dress Chanel Joaillerie Secrete white gold and diamond earrings Damiani Fiori d’Arancio white gold, pearl and diamond cuff bracelet 32 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Teija dress (available exclusively at Galeries Lafayette) Giuseppe Zanotti shoes Chanel Joaillerie Première white gold, diamond and onyx necklace, and 1932 white gold and diamond ring Mikimoto Half and Half white gold and diamond earrings w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 33

Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS

Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

BOOKS & MUSIC

FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour

Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine

REDLINE

| Jewellery & Watches

34 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd),

01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries La Grande Récré - 126 rue La Boétie (8th), 01.42.25.42.42. M° Georges V Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Gresley Paris - 24 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.33.35.81. M° Pyramides Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Ports 1961 - 251 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.35.41. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt

BACCARAT

| Home

Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

EYE WEAR

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

FABRICS: COUTURE

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME

Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (14th), 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

Baccarat ©Laurent Parrault

ACCESSORIES

SHOPPING

Address Book

JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9 ), th

01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries

By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Djula - 269 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.86.08.56. M° Concorde DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Garel - 17 Rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.40.04. M° Opéra Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gorky - 18 rue Duphot (1st) , 01.42.60.22.76. M° Concorde Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau

GUCCI WATCHES

Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra F.P. Journe - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00, M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Redline Showroom - 161 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.44.64.92.24. M° Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00. M° Concorde Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

LINGERIE

Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon

Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries

Hedgren - At the BHV Marais (2nd floor), 52 rue de

Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Kate Lee - 16 rue des Gravilliers (3rd), 01.48.04.57.72. M° Arts et Métiers Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22.

Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine

M° Madeleine

Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st),

01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

LUGGAGE AND BAGS

Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal

| Jewellery & Watches

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

CESARE PACIOTTI

| Shoes

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LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

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• Sothys

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Philippine Janssens •

• Christie’s

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Église de la Madeleine

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Hedgren • •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • • • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger Tommy • Coach Hilfiger Alexander McQueen • • Emporio Armani Hackett • • Marc Jacobs Lacoste • • David Morris • • Omega Omega• UL

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Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara

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• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

MADELEINE

• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •

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• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

Laulhère

Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

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36 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 20 1 8

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RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

RUE DE RIVOLI

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

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Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

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Oliver Grant

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The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

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RUE ROYALE

• Royal Iro Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •

Yohji Yamamoto

WEMPE

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla Vuarnet

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t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

SHOP STOP

Lanvin

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14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com

Place de la Concorde

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LAULHÈRE This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.

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• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel •Bally •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan U ’A N J O Valentino • • Ermenegildo Zegna RUE D • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Djula • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Crockett Dandys • • Chanel • Boucheron & Jones • Tod’s • • Givenchy SQUIER • RUE PA Cartier • Alessi Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •

SHOP STOP

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Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

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3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

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In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

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Pierre Cardin

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Gringoire Joaillier

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JANSSENS & JANSSENS

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Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

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•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat • Baccarat • AV

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MIROMESNIL RU

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

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SHOP STOP

Bucherer

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch

LUXURY MAP Le Marais

SHOP STOP

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QUAI DES CÉLESTINS

PONT MARIE

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

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Village Saint Paul

Mémorial de la Shoah

Melodies • • Graphiques • Calligrane

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•Pierre Boisset •Psyché

DE TURENNE

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Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier

Place des Vosges

Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch El Ganso

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Millen Karen i Parma Acqua d tyque Dip in Guerla

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38 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 20 1 8

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Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol Hartford Les Mille Feuilles • Marionnaud Paris • RUE • Emile Lafaurie DES FRAN Chanel Penhaligon’s CS BOURGE • OI S • • Carhartt • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Fragonard • RUE DES Repetto • • FRANCS BO • • Ted Baker URGEOIS Muji • • •Mademoiselle •• •• Iro • Jeanne Michael • • • Essentiel • • Kors Uniqlo Aubade Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston • • Eres Ekyog •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX ea y • t IZIPIZI i T err se • •Maje• • sm d P reu Bimba y Lola u Iris Cantabri e Devernois C K Maison • • Fr • Le Créa Concept • Alain Mikli L’Argenterie • • Francis Kurkdjian Wolford • R U E D ES Cos de Turenne Lipault R O SI ER • • S • Heschung• • • • Moustaches Thomas All Saints RUE DU PLATRE El Ganso • DE JARENTE Cire Sabo • Paule Ka RUEMasha Huygens Sandro• • Trudon • K.Jacques • • J.Crew RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Ugg • Thierry •Carven Keja • Gucci• •John Galliano • Fleux Lacoste • Mode en Villenave Nike RUE D'ORMESSON Givenchy Karl Demeure • Crockett • • •Maje BHV Marais • Valentino & • RUE DU ROI •DE SICILE • Le l’Homme Jones Lagerfeld Moncler • Fendi • Chevignon • TO IN E AN TIN • RU E SA Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E MX • SAINT-PAUL • RIVOLI E D Finsbury • RUE • Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier • • E RIVOLI

HOTEL DE VILLE

52 rue de Rivoli - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr

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More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !

Gloss

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7 rue des Blancs-Manteaux - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 71 76 76 www.franciskurkdjian.com

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• Merci • OUX Oska • UX CH Ami • Atelier NT A • • Lords&Fools U PO D French E U SAINT-SÉBASTIEN R Cologne • Sandro• Trotters FROISSART • Camper Florian Robinson • ITOU • Kenzo Christophe • Denicourt DE PO Les Bains A U D E• Lemaire RUE • Saint James •-CL • Pas de Jack Gomme • A I N T Calais • APC S E Stephane U Marcel by R Wooyoungmi Verdino • Weekday• • Customellow • Nice• • Louis Quatorze Eclectic • Things Vanessa Bruno Musée National •Mr • Bonastre •Fred Picasso Marzo • Les Petites • Le Mont • Saint Michel Magnanni • RU E DE S 4 • La Fée Maraboutée FI LS

Nicolaï

T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse • Le Labo grenouille

Maison

• Kitsune • Melinda

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Our fragrance house, eponymous of one of the most celebrated perfumers of our time, offers a full collection of fine fragrances, sketched like an olfactive wardrobe. Our creations are crafted with attention to details and in the purest heritage of luxury French perfumery.

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White Bird • Bonton•

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MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN

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• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty • Pierre Meurgey

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Liquides • April 77

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Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.

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Carreau du Temple

LOUIS QUATORZE

106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

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WWW.LOUISQUATORZE.COM

FRANCE + 33 1 42 72 94 43 | CHINA + 86 21 6259 9960 | KOREA + 82 2 6929 4490

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Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

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• •M.A.C. •Levi’s • Elysées •Tissot Horlogerie • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany La Grande RUE • Récré LA RUE DE PONTHIEU

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AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

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• Eric Bompard• Ellie • Bvlgari • Dubail Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard •Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • EA • • RC A Christofle Creed M Altan Bottier UE • EN • RUE PI •Les Suites • AV Arije • ERRE C Cartier • Kusmi H Givenchy A RRO • EV Tea • N Scabal • GEORG Rolex • Chaumet Dubail E U Beretta N • Cercle E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Arabian • Delacre • Oud • Burma R • Sicis Franck • RUE MARB• • •Tom Ford UE PI •Carvil EUF ERR Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE •Balenciaga RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • A TR R • Vionnet É U M E M• • Smalto

By Marie&Gas Bijoux OILL A E Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain ALMA MARCEAU Karl • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld Zadig&Voltaire • Valentino Caron AVE • Thomas • Harry • N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello MARIG E Dior • RUE DE Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli • PSG • Joseph• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MON • Givenchy TA Fendi • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe • Van Pucci•• •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Dolce&Gabbana •• Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine ST Dupont IE

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Publicis Drugstore • Lancel •

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40 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 20 1 8

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57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8 Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

NFÉRENCE

Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.

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29 ave Montaigne - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 03 09 paris.montaigne@harrywinston.com www.harrywinston.com

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Place des États-Unis

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HARRY WINSTON

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17 ave George V - Paris 8th M° George V www.cercledelacre.com

Founded in New York City, in 1932, The House of Harry Winston continues to set the standard for the ultimate in fine jewelry and high-end watch making.

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Fabio Caviglia•

CERCLE DELACRE

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As a pioneer in men’s care, Delacre relies on more than 20 years of experience to help them attain the results they want. A unique concept for hair dressing and grooming exclusively for men, a prestigious location and unrivalled expertise, along with truly personalized services: Delacre is the premier salon for Parisian and globetrotting elites.

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Waskoll A. Lange • & Söhne • Marvella A • C Repetto • E Poiray U Garland R Corthay Y • Christofle • • Harrison Cartier • OLNE Piaget • Diesel V • Yumi Katsura Hugo Boss • E • Bodum • IX • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Dinh Van • A Alexander McQueen • L •Fred Louis Vuitton • • UE DE• Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier R • Jaquet Droz Dubail Dior Bvlgari • Anshindo • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House • Tasaki• • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU Hublot • • ST Breguet • RU • Patek Philippe Place du Marché Zadig & ED • Dior FreyWille • ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia MP Montagut • S Dodo Courteille • RU Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba • Tourist ON • • Balenciaga Arije T - T Paule Ka Office HA Akillis • BO • PYRAMIDES RUE R • • • Jovoy TH Missoni ÉR Christian Dior • M.A.C ÈSE Ami • • •Frank Namani • Bonpoint Gorky Antiquités

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12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

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BUCHERER PARIS In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking.

The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

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38 ave de l’Opéra - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 01 68 shop.opera@bodum.com

Opéra Garnier

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Bodum, a Danish family owned company that has been delivering innovative designs for more than 70 years. In 1974, Bodum introduces its first French Press® coffeemaker. Nowadays, Bodum continues to extend its collection of wonderfully designed products for every day use, ranging from kitchen and table top articles to small electric appliances..

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

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Fragonard

Mario Dessuti•

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

BODUM

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

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Printemps Beauté-Maison HAVRE- • Guerlain • CAUMARTIN

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Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

Printemps Homme

RUE

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GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

Galeries du Diamant •

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Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

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Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Christofle

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• RUE ROYALE

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE

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• Wempe • Lancaster • Kate spade • Tory Burch • Max Mara

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Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

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Christian Louboutin

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

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by Terry Xavier Lust

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Francesco Russo

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Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

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15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

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Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

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•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

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•Dodo Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka • •Moynat TUILERIES Jack Russell • Burma • •Stuart Weitzman Ami • • Balenciaga Missoni• • Akillis Kiehl’s• Place du Marché • Saint-Honoré Barbara Rihl • • Christian Dior Colette •M.A.C Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • •Paraboot La Prairie • RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil The Kooples • •Cotélac Carrousel du Louvre

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Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : +33 (0)1 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

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Chanel CA MB ON Hedgren RU E CA MB ON • Max&Moi • • • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • Jamin • Kiton Messika• • Hervé Maison Puech Léger Tommy • Coach • Abriza Morabito• Hilfiger • Alexander McQueen Chloé• • Brioni Ports • •Emporio Armani DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •David Morris Arije Bally • J.M. • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST

6 rue Saint Florentin - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 97 43 43 www.stephaniecesaire.com

Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury.

Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands.

Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

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Structured like architectural masterpieces, cut like couture creations, Stéphanie Césaire’s bags are made with splendid leathers by the best artisans of French luxury. The designer presents her bags, alluring like dresses, in her boutique full of flair and character.

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Musée de l’Orangerie

Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

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11 rue de l’Arrivée - Paris 15th www.montparnasserivegauche.com

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Montparnasse Rive Gauche is a premier destination for a great shopping and dining experience. In the heart of Paris enjoy the famous retailers such as Galeries Lafayette, C&A, Nature & Découvertes, Lacoste... At the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower at the visit panoramic.

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Poiray • Liu Jo BO Christian U • Façonnable L • E VA RUE U CI Louboutin Stella • DE L Louis RD RUE DE B • ’A B SAI • • Agent Luna Etro • Vuitton B AY N Camper T E • -GE Provocateur • Sonia • • RM Brunello • AIN Rykiel Moncler • Cucinelli Burberry Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Smith Voyeurs • Lauren • Paul Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Ami Maison Armani BOU • • Lejaby• • LEV • De Fursac L.K. ARD Cartier • Y’s SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON Crockett & Jones • Hackett• Montblanc Alexis Mabille • • Kenzo • • Gas Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Bijoux Saint Laurent• L’Ibis Rouge • • OUR • DU F Liu Jo RUE Sportmax• Prada • • Tod’s Marina Rinaldi • Djula Dot-Drops • • U FOUR La Perla • Alain Mikli • D Durance RUE M.A.C.• • • Repetto Le Mont Omega S Saint Michel Berluti • • ÉVRE S E Saint D • • • E U RUE DE BABYLONE • R Agnès b Lancaster Laurent Longines Camper • • SU LP IC E T• Frey Wille IN • SA SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp RUE • • Hermès • Capel Robert Eres • • ULPICE Clergerie -S SAINT-SULPICE Zadig ST E U R Le Bon •Lise Loxwood & Voltaire ES Charmel • Marché S É V R DE • • Il Bisonte

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33 blvd Raspail - Paris 7th Tel: +33(0) 1 45 44 19 30 www.crockettandjones.com

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CROCKETT & JONES A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand for men and women is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, and custom-made service.

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Liu Jo is the Italian brand devoted to the enhancement of the natural femininity of every woman, expressed through a refined and glamorous style.

182 blvd Saint-Germain, Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 71 15 40 www.liujo.com

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The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS

By Patricia Valicenti

Robert Wlérick, Buste de Rolande, bronze doré, Coll. Musée Despiau-Wlérick © Paul Soubiron, Service communication Mont-de-Marsan agglomération

Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours

Bust in gilded bronze at the Masters of Figuratine Sculptural exhibit at the Fondation Taylor (page 52) 44 W HE RE PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

Pearl vanity case, by Strauss Allan & Meyer, Paris, circa 1930; Edouard Riou, Cérémonie d’inauguration du canal de Suez à Port-Saïd, le 17 novembre 1869 © RMN- Grand Palais (domaine de Compiègne)/Daniel Arnaude

The Art of Art Deco A world of art and high craft is unfolding in an exhibition showcasing precious Art Deco objects from the collection of the Prince and Princess Sadruddin Aga Khan. These exceptional objects are being presented in France for the first time at the Ecole des Arts Joailliers, which is supported by the high jewellery house of Van Cleef & Arpels. Composed of masterpieces of invention, fantasy and technique, the collection was constituted by the Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan for his wife the Princess Catherine Aleya Aga Khan.

These are objects that were especially conceived for the first “free” women in the 1920s, women who smoked, went out and did their make-up in public. Cigarette cases, ornamental cases, powder compacts, minaudières, which are regarded as pieces of jewellery and often function as evening bags, as well as other items fashioned in gold decorated with semiprecious stones or precious stones, mother of pearl, lacquer, translucent enamel and ornamented with miniatures are all on show.

From April 4th through to April 25th Monday to Saturday, from 12pm to 3pm 31 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01 70 70 38 40

The Saga of the Suez Canal The epic story of the Suez Canal is being played out in an exhibition at the Institut du Monde Arab, which traces the 4000-year saga from the Pharaohs to Ferdinand de Lesseps, the French diplomat and entrepreneur who developed the canal in the 19th century.

Through archaeological objects, scale models and photographs, the show looks at the history of the canal that would link three continents, Asia, Africa and Europe. The show opens up with a space devoted to the inaugural ceremony of the canal in 1869 when Ismael the Khedive of Egypt and Sudan welcomed members of all of the royal families of Europe, envoys from the Sultan of Turkey and the guest of honour the Empress Eugénie of France.

Showing through to August 5th 1 rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard (5th), 01 40 51 38 38 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 45

GALERIE TAMÉNAGA IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART Bernard BUFFET

MODERN MASTERS: Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet...

CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano, Yoshikawa...

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS

An Out of the Ordinary Impressionist

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities.

Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s.

MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

46 W HE R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

A summertime idyll, myriad representations of a mother and child, a woman bathing with a basin and pitcher, these are the serenely beautiful scenes depicted in the works of Mary Cassat. The Musée Jacquemart-André is hosting a major retrospective devoted to the American Impressionist painter who in her lifetime was considered to be the greatest living American artist. The show brings together some 50 major works including oil paintings, pastels, drawings and engravings, which accompanied by diverse documents and archives, recount the story of an American in Paris. The American-born artist lived in France for 60 years and was the only female American painter to have exhibited with the Impressionist group in Paris. Discovered

by Edgar Degas at the Salon of 1874, she would exhibit regularly with the group in the 19th century. It was her unique representation and modern interpretation of the traditional subject of a mother and child that would bring her international recognition.

Showing through to July 23rd 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 45 62 11 59

Mary Cassatt, La Tasse de thé, vers 1880-81, huile sur toile, aquise par le The Metropolitan Museum of Art de la collection de James Stillman, donation du docteur Ernest G. Stillman, 1922, photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais / image of the MMA

Exhibition: 22th of March-12th of April

ANDY DENZLER

Detail : Andy Denzler, Girl with Grey Vintage Chair, 2017, 140 x 120 cm

4 - 17 MAY 2018

62 rue du faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ, 75008 Paris | T. + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 | paris@operagallery.com | operagallery.com New York Miami Aspen London Paris Monaco Geneva Zurich Dubai Beirut Hong Kong Singapore Seoul

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Dance, the Divine The Musée Rodin is hosting an exhibition, entitled Rodin and the Dance, that takes a look at the sculptor’s fascination with the art of dancing and how he expressed life force, vital energy and grace in his works. The show revolves around his famous Dance Movements series, which was never shown in the sculptor’s lifetime, and a selection of 50 drawings and a host of other sculptures, photographs and antiques. The sculptor’s relationship with dance is illustrated by his encounters with leading dancers of his time like Isadora Duncan, Loïe Fuller and the Japanese dancer Hanako. He was particularly taken with the dancers of the Royal Ballet of Cambodia during their visit to Paris to perform at the World’s Fair, saying when they left that they “took the beauty of the world with them.”

From April 7th through to July 22nd 77 rue de Varenne (7th), 01 44 18 61 10

Subjects in Sculpture Post-war figurative sculpture is being showcased at the Fondation Taylor in partnership with the Musée Despiau-Wlérick in Mont-deMarsan, which is the only museum in France, devoted exclusively to figurative sculpture of the first half of the 20th century. Among the artists being presented is Charles Despiau who was an assistant to Rodin and whose works, largely portraits and nudes embodying a calm version of classicism, are found in collections in museums throughout the world. Also on display are works by Robert Wlérick including an ethereally beautiful bust of Rolande in gilded bronze. Entitled Masters of Figurative Sculpture, 1938-1968, the exhibition presents some 100 emblematic works of this period, both sculptures and drawings, with the latter devoted particularly to portraits and figures. Other artists on display include Charles Malfray, Jean Carton, Gunnar Nilsson and Jean Osouf all of whom made monumental works as well as executing state commissions.

Showing through to May 12th 1 rue de la Bruyère (9th), 01 48 74 85 24 48 W HE R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Auguste Rodin, Danseuse cambodgienne de face, crayon au graphite ; aquarelle ; gouache ; rehaut-crayon gras (noir) sur papier vélin © musée Rodin, ph Jean de Calan; Charles Despiau, Odette, sanguine sur papier, Coll. Musée Despiau-Wlérick © Paul Soubiron, Service communication Mont-de-Marsan agglomération

Exhibitions

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

La fuite devant le mammouth huile sur toile de Paul Jamin, 1885 Photo © M.N.H.N. Jean-Christophe Domenech

Exhibitions Exhibitions

The Neanderthal Man The Musée de l’Homme, the ethnology museum in Paris, is hosting an extensive exhibition devoted to the Neanderthal Man demonstrating that rather than being a primitive creature, he was a human being who was more like us than we thought. The show plunges the visitor into the prehistoric world in which the Neanderthal evolved and brings together some 180 works of art and objects including remarkable original fossils that are rarely exhibited to the public. The journey into pre-history begins with an immersion into the environment of the Neanderthals with naturalised specimens of animals of the age and takes a look at the day to day life of hunter gatherers of the Palaeolithic.

Archaeology plays a large role in the show with fossils, tools and a host of documents on show. Interactive displays, photographs and films offer an additional glimpse into the world of this being who disappeared 35,000 years ago after a presence of 350,000 years.

Showing through to January 7th, 2019 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01 44 05 72 72

ADVERTORIAL

Loft du 34

G

alleries devoted to contemporary art, photography and antiques line the cobbled streets of SaintGermain-des-Prés, and into this mix of heterogeneous genres the Loft du 34 has crept, an atypical place dedicated to street art.

At the end of a courtyard, hidden away in the street of the Dragon, this gallery bloomed at the beginning of 2016. Born of the will of Sylvie and Laurent, a daring and passionate urban art couple, the young gallery has today become a crossroads for street art through its raw decor of an apartment converted into an exhibition space of 160 square metres, its exposed beams, its bay windows and bare stone walls spread out on two floors and especially thanks to its shows, solo or collective, which appeal to the talent of emerging and confirmed artists, local and international. Artists such as Astro, DXTR, Alber, Marko 93 or Réso and Monde have watched their

successors like Shane, Maite Sant, Stom500 and the Americans Hoxxoh and Sen2 exhibit here.

What gives the Loft du 34 its true originality are the unique creations that accompany its retrospectives.

Phosphorescent canvases, diverse mediums and wooden sculptures, a gigantic trompe l’oeil occupying all of the entrance for the “Immersion” event, a floor-to-ceiling studio covered with graffiti for “Home Staging”, and even a silhouetted photo call for “Dark Sign”. More than a gallery, the Loft of 34 is the shrine of an unbridled, almost unlimited imagination, and not to mention the human warmth that emanates from the place, upon which Alex, the son of the founders, now looks after masterfully.

34 rue du Dragon (6th), 06 33 26 61 26 You can find the gallery next April 12th through to the 15th at the Urban Art Fair in the Carreau du Temple in Paris, located at 4 rue Eugène Spuller (3rd), 06 64 61 25 21 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 49

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

A Dramatic Diversion

Using an elaborate and technical system, the water is pumped from the bed of the river at the Pont au Change and runs above the Quai de l’Horloge and enters into the monument through its historical kitchens before emerging as a waterfall into the majestic Salle des Gens d’Armes (Hall of the Soldiers) built during the reign of Philip the Fair, which spanned the 13th and 14th centuries. The water then wends its way through the Gothic columns of the structure before rising up and jumping over the facade through the central bay window located between the monument’s two twin towers, César and Argent, 50 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

then gushes out as a waterfall into the drainage pitch outside of the Conciergerie before being returned to the river.

The installation work questions the monument’s relationship with its immediate environment, the Ile de la Cité, the Seine and on a larger level the city itself while showcasing the decisive role the river played in the geographic, economic and historic construction of the French capital.

The Conciergerie was part of the complex of the palace that was the residence of the medieval kings of France and many centuries later it would be the site of the tribunal and prison during the French Revolution.

Today, the structure, a witness to the history of France, is part of the network of the Centre des Monuments Nationaux (The Centre of French National Monuments) and is open to the public.

Installation from March 30th through to August 31st Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary though so do please check the website before you visit.

Last tickets 30 minutes before closing time.

2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80 www.paris-conciergerie.fr

The Conciergerie © Caroline Rose - Centre des monuments nationaux - Photo de Presse

A

highly intriguing installation work has been set up in the historical heart of Paris in the Conciergerie, which sits on the Ile de la Cité surrounded by the Seine. Conceived by the artist Stéphane Thidet, who here pursues his work using the natural elements, the exhibition is fittingly entitled Détournement meaning diversion, for the installation entailed diverting water from the Seine to enter then flow through the inside of the monument before it returns to the river, provoking a slide in the natural course of the river. In 1910, the overflowing Seine left its mark on the columns of the Conciergerie, so the artist wanted to invite the water of the river to return once again inside the monument, but this time in a peaceful and controlled fashion.

MARCH 30 AUGUST 31 2018

STÉPHANE THIDET À LA CONCIERGERIE À PARIS

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

ARC DE TRIOMPHE The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch.

Open daily 10am-11pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77.

M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10-25€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

EIFFEL TOWER

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL

Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling

Arc de Triomphe

52 W HE R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm.

Eiffel Tower

Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 . M° Cité

LUXEMBOURG GARDEN This lovely garden with tranquil walkways, superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. It is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two.

Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon

Notre-Dame Cathedral

Photos iStock 2018 : The Tuleries Garden© Consuelo Almazán Carrete; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy; Notre-Dame Cathedral © Deejpilot

The Tuileries Garden

Photos iStock 2017 : Luxembourg Garden © Kenneth Wiedemann; Opéra Palais Garnier © www.jaspe.info; Place des Vosges © Full Nikada. Panthéon © Vitaly Edush; Pont des Arts / Institute of France © Jacob Thue; Sacré-Coeur © Octav Dragan; Sainte-Chapelle © dennisvdw ;Tuileries Garden © Consu1961; Chappelle Expiatoire © Benjamin Gavaudo – Centre des monuments nationaux - Photo de Presse

Luxembourg Garden

Panthéon

Sacré-Coeur

PALAIS GARNIER-OPERA DE PARIS

PONT DES ARTS

SAINTE-CHAPELLE

Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture.

Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05.

Place de l’Opéra (9th).

M° Opéra

This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians.

Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand (1st).

A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan-Mar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris

PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; AprSept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.paris-pantheon.fr 6 pl du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00.

M° Cardinal-Lemoine

PLACE DES VOSGES One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square.

Place des Vosges (4th).

M° Chemin Vert

Place des Vosges

Pont des Arts

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking.

There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09.

M° Anvers

Sainte Chapelle

THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens.

Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE The Expiatory Chapel, built in the late neoclassical style, is located in the Square Louis XVI in Paris and is surrounded by a pleasant park and garden. It was constructed on the site where King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette were buried in 1793 after they were guillotined during the French Revolution. The building was commissioned by King Louis XVIII, the brother of Louis XVI, in 1815 and completed in 1826. The chapel, the work of the architect François Léonard Fontaine, was listed as a historic monument in 1914.

The remains of the king and queen were transferred to the Basilica of Saint-Denis but inside the chapel the black marble alter in the crypt marks the place where the king’s body was exhumed. The chapel is part of the network of the Centre des Monuments Nationaux (The Centre of French National Monuments). Tues-Sat 10am-12:30pm & 1:30pm-6:30pm. 6€. www.chapelle-expiatoire-paris.fr 29 rue Pasquier (8th), 01 42 65 35 80.

M° Saint-Augustin

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris AREAS & MARKETS Paris Flea Market

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Carré Rive Gauche

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history.

Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.

01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble

by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.

18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

BATEAUXMOUCHES | Boat Cruises 54 W HE RE PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

ATTRACTIONS Académie Équestre de Versailles

Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises.

Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70.

RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Atelier des Lumières

A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing.

5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere.

The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day.

Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

Canal Saint-Martin

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Catacombes de Paris

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The visit is not recommended for pregnant

women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th), 01.43.22.47.63. M° Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04.

M° Quai de la Gare

Grande Arche

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop are all on the agenda. Daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20.

M° La Défense Grande Arche

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm.

18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish

PARIS AUTHENTIC | Guided Tours

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

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representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25.

M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Pavillons de Bercy

Château de Versailles

Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

BOAT CRUISES

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm).

Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection.

Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Bateaux-Mouches

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

Bateaux Parisiens

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm.

For dinner cruises please see the Dining section.

Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris.

Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet.

84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

River Limousine

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart.

Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

DAY TRIPS Château de Fontainebleau

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

GUIDED TOURS L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office.

13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. Enjoy Paris by day or night, champagne in Montmartre, historic landmarks, luxurious places, secret neighbourhoods, tailor-made tours. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing.

Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour.

01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com

MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou

GARDENS

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Jardin des Tuileries

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures

by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

GIVERNY | Day Trips

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book

Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm.

261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation.

Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma

In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, archives, cameras and costumes. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy

La Maison de Victor Hugo

This museum located in a splendid private mansion on the Place des Vosges is devoted to the French writer, statesman and artist Victor Hugo who once lived there. The museum’s collections include drawings by Victor Hugo, manuscripts, statues and paintings as well as photographs and furnishings. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 6 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.72.10.16. M° Saint-Paul

Le Grand Musée du Parfum

The world of perfume unfolds in this museum devoted to perfume and the art of perfume making, one of France’s leading industries.

Located in a beautiful private mansion, the museum takes the visitor on a historical and sensorial quest. The visit is highly interactive with videos and devices used to try out the fragrances and scents found along the way which include many of the raw materials used in perfume making. Tues-Sun 10:30am-7pm.

73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.25.44. M° Miromesnil

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

MAD

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm.

107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Mona Bismarck American Center

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée Cernuschi

The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions.

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.

8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope.

Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

Musée en Herbe

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. TueSun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st

INSTITUT DU MONDE ARABE | Museums & Fondations 56 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée Jacquemart-André

The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose

MAD | Museums & Fondations

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities.

Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39.

M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Musée Marmottan Monet

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie.

Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm.

Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm.

Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Palais Galliera

Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum.

Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte

This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel.

Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Musée du Vin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Musée Yves Saint Laurent

This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets

MUSÉE DE L’ORANGERIE | Museums & Fondations

at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00.

M°Alma-Marceau

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century.

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm.

Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00.

M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique

This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin

11 Conti - Monnaie de Paris

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm.

11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets.

Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm.

Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

PHILHARMONIE DE PARIS  CITÉ DE LA MUSIQUE | Museums & Fondations w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 57

The Guide

DINING

Contemporary Cuisine | French Fare | Italian Cuisine | Bistros | Seafood

Creative dining at Automne (opposite page)

58 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

DINING

Restaurants

A Hidden Dining Gem One of the most exciting things about dining in Paris is that the city is filled with so many undiscovered little restaurants serving some truly spectacular food. A perfect example of the genre is young Japanese born chef Nobuyuki Akishige’s new restaurant Automne in a quiet residential neighbourhood in eastern Paris. The menu in this miniscule little place evolves constantly, but highlights of a recent dinner included a superb tart of foie gras, a nice thick slice of duck foie gras on a crumbly crust with a red fruit reduction, an excellent mussel soup, sautéed sole with broccoli puree, caviar and sorrel leaves, and poached pears with Chartreuse mousse and all-spice ice-cream. The young chef’s passion for his métier was present in every bite we ate, and his wife ran the dining room with timid charm. – Alexander Lobrano Automne 11 rue Richard Lenoir (11th), 01 40 09 03 70

Automne Photos © Stéphane Leger

French Fare Once the location of Joel Robuchon’s storied three-star table, Café Jamin maintains the address’ distinguished gastronomic pedigree with the arrival of excellent chef–owner Hervé Rodriguez, who also owns the Michelin-starred MaSa in the Paris suburb of BoulogneBillancourt. Rodriguez has cleverly designed a menu that will appeal to both diners looking for inventive contemporary French cooking and those who prefer the great classics of Gaul. So start off with the scallop carpaccio garnished with cedrat or maybe the hot pâté en croûte with truffle sauce, and then try the monkfish medallions with crab coulis or the chicken breast in a morel mushroom cream sauce. Desserts are sumptuous here, since they occupy the beautiful stone-topped island in the middle of the dining room and are all homemade. They vary from day to day, but don’t miss the floating island, the éclairs or the baba au rhum. The charming maître d’hotel speaks perfect English and has a wry sense of humour, and the wine list is brief but well composed and fairly priced. – A.L. Café Jamin 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01 45 53 00 07 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 59

DINING

Restaurants

Italian Delights Tucked away in an elegant street in the heart of Paris, near the Elysées Palace, the gardens of the Champs-Elysées and the Place de la Concorde, Tosca, a suave little dining room with Zebra pattern velvet tub chairs, bleached oak panelling and shaded walls sconces, is an excellent choice for fans of Italian cooking. Chef Michelino Gioia previously won a Michelin star for his cooking at the Hotel Posta Vecchia near Rome, and his style might be described as a refined rusticity, since he does dishes like vitello tonnato (roast veal with tuna sauce) with powder capers from Pantelleria, a delicious millefeuille of aubergines and mozzarella, spaghetti with baby clams, a veal-stuffed ravioli in a mushroom cream sauce seasoned with coffee and cocoa nibs, and pan-roasted veal chops. Gallant service, an excellent wine list and some superb desserts, too, round out the decidedly operatic performance of this pleasant table. – A.L. Tosca 20 rue du Cirque (8th), 01 42 68 10 00

When visiting the City of Light a nice meal at a French bistro is de rigueur and Jacopo, a recently opened contemporary bistro is a great spot for visitors. All the classics are here, snails, French onion soup and of course steak et frites. Thibault Sombardier who has slightly modernised the otherwise traditional dishes, from the presentation to the serving of the dishes, put the menu together. The onion soup is delicately poured at the table over a toasted slice of bread with melted cheese, while the entrecote is served with a dollop of butter, melting into the steak. Conveniently located between the chic Avenue George V and the famous Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Jacopo serves as a great eatery for lunch to break up your shopping along the fashionable avenues or for dinner after said shopping marathon.

The bistro does not accept reservations with a first in, first served policy, and a note to cocktail lovers, try to uncover the bistro’s speakeasy bar for a fun nightcap. S.I. Jacopo 5bis rue Vernet (8th), 01 42 89 20 22 60 W HE R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

Tosca © Vincenzo Tambasco

Modern Bistro Dining

DINING

Restaurant Advertorial

LE CINQ CODET Classic French / Paris 7th Spring has a well kept secret: the terrace of the Codet restaurant right here where seasonal savours concocted by Chef Antoine K’Ros come into bloom in the open air. In a venue that is calm and with fine design and a Left Bank state of mind that is thoroughly serene, the spot beckons to come and spend some time, enjoyable time, for a lunch or in the evening.

Cocktails at the bar, jazz on Saturday night, the way to be chic here is to be relaxed. And new this season for those who like to linger over a gourmet experience, the Sunday brunch here is one of the most relaxing of rendezvous.

A la carte from 12€ 5 rue Louis Codet, Paris 7th Metro: Ècole Militaire Tel. +33 (0)1 53 85 15 60 www.le5codet.com

LUNCH & DINNER CRUISES SIGHTSEEING CRUISES Discover the spirit of Paris from the River Seine…

Located at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, Bateaux Parisiens provides every day an intense and tasty journey along the most beautiful of Parisian boulevards. Embark aboard its entirely glassed-over boats for a unique cultural and gastronomic experience. www.bateauxparisiens.com • +33 (0)1 76 64 14 45 Bateaux Parisiens, a

company

DINING

Restaurants

Seafood and Cocktails The stylish new Bulot Bulot, in the charming Abbesses district of Montmartre is just the hip little seafood shack you’ll wish you had within walking distance of your front door wherever you live. It’s postage-stampsized, so not for claustrophobes, but everyone else will love its friendliness, fair prices, and the excellence of its shellfish oriented menu. Charming owner Etienne Ryckeboer serves superb oysters from his cousin’s oyster beds in Normandy, plus other bivalves from Brittany, first-rate crab or lobster rolls, and great desserts, including Key Lime cheesecake. Cocktails are de rigueur here, too, thanks to talented mixologist Margot Lecarpentier, who formerly worked at Le Mary Celeste, one of the best bars in Paris. The restaurant also offers a short but excellent wine list that includes a terrific Alban Roblin Sancerre. – A.L. Bulot Bulot 83 rue des Martyrs (18th), 01 42 64 19 09

Tucked away in the The French capital’s Golden Triangle is known for its plush hotels, posh boutiques and exclusive restaurants, and one such establishment is Yeeels restaurant and bar, which offers two experiences under the one very elegant roof. The ground floor invites guests into an Art Deco space complete with gold detailing and suspended lights, while dinner takes diners down the marble stairs for cocktails and music. Open daily, the restaurant serves a contemporary menu that features dishes such as roasted sea bass served with cabbage and smoked bacon and drizzled with a cream of Comté cheese. For lighter options there is the Detox salad, a green salad with edamame beans and fennel and tossed in a zesty dressing made with Thai basil, mint, coriander and sesame, and the house’s Broccoli, literally a broccoli served roasted in its entirety and topped with grated parmesan cheese and truffles, making sure you get all your greens for the day and wiping away any guilt of giving in to the creamy tiramisu on the dessert menu. - S.I. Yeeels 24 ave George V (8th), 01 42 88 75 75 62 W HE R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

Bulot Bulot ©Yann Deret

In the Triangle

DINING

Restaurant Advertorial

DJAKARTA BALI

ZITI

Indonesian cuisine

Italian restaurant

49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1st 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com

460 rue Pierre Charron , Paris 8th 4Metro: Franklin Roosevelt 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 63 48 48 4Monday-Saturday, lunch and dinner from noon -3pm and in the evening from 7pm-midnight 4www.ziti.fr

Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre.

Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali.

Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader ‘s choice 2017.

Classic Italian specialties are served in this lively eatery off the Champs-Elysées. Starters include a bresaola-based salad and Parma ham aged for 20 months. Homemade pastas are on the agenda with for example linguine in tuna and tomato sauce.

AU COIN DES GOURMETS Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 30 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near Notre-Dame. Advisable to reserve.

38 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr

Paris 1st

5 rue Dante, Paris 5th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92

DINING

Restaurants

Dining ON THE HILL Visiting Montmartre, Paris’s highest point, is a rite of passage for any tourist visiting the French capital, however, it is not always easy finding good restaurants within the very touristy neighbourhood. Here we share with you our favourite four tables in the 18th arrondissement for any cuisine mood and throw in a bar to celebrate. - S.I.

Bistro Fare

La Traversée serves up a tapas-style menu in the evenings with a regularly changing menu using seasonal produce. The Mediterranean-inspired dishes could include roasted mushrooms sitting on a bed of creamy ricotta cheese, beef kefta balls served with a cream of mint sauce and the house classic, pickled organic eggs served with red curry. The recently opened restaurant is a hit with locals for its delicious, and affordable, dishes, so be sure to reserve or get in early when it opens at 6pm.

La Traversée, 2 rue Ramey (18th), 09 54 86 79 95

Time for Thai

Serving traditional dishes, with very generous servings at very affordable prices, La Brasserie Thaï is our new favourite Thai restaurant.

On the menu diners will find traditional dishes including Tom Yam soup, Som Tam salad with fresh papaya and Pad Thai. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays and all day on weekends so clients can enjoy their spicy Tom Yam at 1pm or 5pm.

Modern Bistronomy

Chamarré Montmartre is a popular restaurant with locals as French chef Antoine Heerah serves a refined cuisine, showcasing his talents that had earned him a Michelin star at his first restaurant back in 2002. The menu changes quite frequently, with the chef working with seasonal and fresh produce, though dishes could include foie gras served with sweet seasonal fruit chutney, and Pollack cooked meunièrestyle served with a zesty lemon butter sauce. The chef also accommodates for vegetarians with at least 2 dishes always available on the menu, including a risotto Milanese. With the weather warming up the best seat in the house is a table in the restaurant’s terrace, which overlooks Montmartre’s famous stairs.

Chamarré Montmartre, 52 rue Lamarck (18th), 01 42 55 05 42

A Celebratory Cocktail

If you’re looking to dine on Italian cuisine while taking a tour of the 18th arrondissement make sure you pop into Roberta. This traditional trattoria serves up freshly made pasta and mouth-watering antipasti including panzarottini, mini calzones filled with tomato and mozzarella.

Celebrate your Parisian day with cocktails with a view and head to the Terrass’ Hotel where on the 7th floor a breathtaking view of the City of Light awaits. With windows overlooking the city and a rooftop bar, this is the ideal spot to toast the city. Try the Moulin Rouge with vodka, champagne and fresh raspberries or the All Eyes On Me with gin, aperol and ginger ale and get drunk on the spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower twinkling in the sky.

Roberta, 5 rue la Vieuville (18th), 01 42 59 33 32

Terrass’ Hotel, 12 rue Joseph de Maistre (18th), 01 46 06 72 85

La Brasserie Thaï, 5 rue Poulbot (18th), 09 86 53 43 32

Italian Cuisine

Roberta

La Traversée

Roberta © Pierre Monetta

La Brasserie Thaï

64 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

BRETEUIL 3 place de Breteuil - Paris 7 +33 1 45 67 07 27 Seafood take away

MAILLOT 275 boulevard Pereire - Paris 17 +33 1 45 74 33 32

17ème 108 avenue de Villiers - Paris 17 +33 1 47 63 32 77

MUETTE 10 chaussée de la Muette - Paris 16 +33 1 45 03 14 84 Seafood take away

Open Daily ~ Valet Service ~ Patios ~ Private Rooms

All inclusive menu for 44€ Apéritif Starter ~ Entree ~ Dessert Wine & Coffee

www.legrandbistro.fr

d o r r Paris

LeGrandBistroParis d o r r Paris

Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Enjoy an appetizer of crayfish followed by poultry with zucchini flowers, then cheese and dessert. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

FOOD & WINE Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00.

M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent,

carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks.

93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Nicolas

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

Vintage&Cie

Exceptional wines are found in this shop, which specialises in grands crus, old vintages and rare wines. The boutique also offers a selection of champagnes and spirits as well as an eclectic range of more accessible wines. Every Thursday evening between 6pm and 8pm the house holds tastings open to the public to discover a wine, champagne or a spirit and the tasting room in the wine cellar can be privatised. 199 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.70.98.43. M° Ternes

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - Indochinese (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent Cambodian, Laotian and Vietnamese dishes in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Savoury starters include the shrimp dumpling soup and a fine selection of dim sum. Excellent main courses include the chicken sautéed with fresh ginger and prawns braised in three different peppers. The restaurant has a nice list of French wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. M° Concorde

Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-range chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm.

16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.86.10.10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne.

French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish.

Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

LA GRANDE EPICERIE RIVE DROITE | Food & Wine (16th) 66 W HE RE PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

DJAKARTA BALI | Indonesian (1st)

DINING

Address Book

up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L&D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44.

Mº Tuileries

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais RoyalMusée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree.

Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27.

M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French

(€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961.

Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real

maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad.

4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45.

Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas.

Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11.

Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest.

Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31.

Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list.

Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82.

Mº Place Monge

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26.

Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite.

Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LA MÉDITERRANÉE | Seafood (6th)

CANARD & CHAMPAGNE | Classic French (2nd) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 67

DINING

Address Book Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha.

Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm.

5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8 ) th

114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44.

Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº SaintPhilippe-du-Roule

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in

French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€) Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39.

M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include

a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00.

M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere.

For starters try the refreshing gazpacho or asparagus with Parmesan cheese and radishes.

Main dishes can include salmon with wild rice or a filet of Black Angus beef while cheesecake and a raspberry based pastry are stars of the dessert menu. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75.

M° George V

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)

This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A nice wine list and house cocktails round out the

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

ARPÈGE | Contemporary (7th) 68 W HE RE PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

LES CONFIDENCES DU SAN RÉGIS | French (8th)

DINING

Address Book offerings. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. For starters sample sautéed mushrooms or creamy butternut squash soup, a delicious main course is the veal cutlet served in the pan and you can wind up with a cheese plate followed by a chocolate mousse flavoured with passion fruit. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th)

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef.

Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91.

Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics.

All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th)

Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06.

Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff.

Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. There is an excellent cheese platter and desserts include a mango Pavlova and a rich house chocolate confection. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)

This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include

pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries.

The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LE GASTROQUET | Classic French (15th)

L’OISEAU BLANC | Classic French (16th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 69

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT Shows | Jazz | Concerts | Cocktail Bars | Cabarets | Nightclubs | Gentlemen’s Clubs

Party with a Gold Duchesse cocktail at Le Baron (page 73)

70 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

A Date with Romeo and Juliet Fall in love with Shakespeare’s tragic story of Romeo and Juliet, the two star-crossed lovers, as it is played out at Opera Bastille from the 6th of April. Choreographed by Sasha Waltz, with music by Hector Berlioz, the Opéra National de Paris ballet’s performance will leave you enchanted. With their elegance in movement lose yourself in the performance of the dancers as they dance from the masked ball scene through to the heartbreaking ending.

Roméo et Juliette, Ballet de l’Opéra de Paris © Laurent Philippe ONP; Hugh Coltman © Cristal Rock

Opéra Bastille Place de la Bastille (12th), 08 92 89 90 90

A Night of Jazz British singer Hugh Coltman started his career in music as a blues-rock lead singer before jazz music made its way into his life. Based in France, Coltman won the vocalist of the year at the Victoires du Jazz awards last year and now you can catch the soulful artist at the Bataclan for a live concert on the 12th of the month. Better known for his cover songs, Coltman will be performing songs from his recently released album, Who’s Happy?, with songs inspired by his family notably his father and his son.

Bataclan 50 blvd Voltaire (11th), 01 43 14 00 30 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 71

ENTERTAINMENT Concerts

Oriental Sounds The Philharmonie de Paris is celebrating the arts of the Arab world with concerts held on different weekends starting in April through to May, in conjunction with its Al Musiqa exhibition. This month, on Friday the 6th of April you are invited to discover the mystical sounds of the oud, at the Philharmonie’s Cité de la Musique with a 2-part concert with Driss El Maloumi from Morocco and Naseer Shamma from Iraq. Both artists will be performing live and beautifully giving new life to this historical instrument through their music.

Happy Hour The recently opened 5-star Parister Hotel is our new favourite place for an afterwork cocktail. The hotel’s Les Passerelles bar puts forth the talents of Xavier and Lilya who create original cocktails behind the bar. While there is a cocktail menu, albeit a short one, the team behind the bar prefer to mix clients bespoke cocktails that remain unnamed including a recently created drink with Crystal Head vodka, lemon and shavings of dark chocolate. The bar also boasts a tree-filled patio to enjoy your cocktails on warmer evenings.

Parister Hotel 19 rue Saulnier (9th), 01 80 50 91 91 72 W HE R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

Oud conçu par Georges Nahat, 1931, Syrie, Damas, Musée de la musique, Cité de la musique - Philharmonie de Paris Jean-Marc Anglès

Cité de la Musique 221 ave Jean-Jaurès (19th), 01 44 84 44 84

ENTERTAINMENT

Clubs

Clubbing VIP-Style It might be one of the city’s smallest clubs but what Le Baron lacks in size it certainly makes up for it in ambiance and exclusive service.

In the chic 8th arrondissement Le Baron stands behind an unmarked door, where only the clued in know of its private existence and where once guests push the door open, the private club invites them to enjoy one of the best nights of their lives. Open from Monday to Saturday, from midnight till dawn, the club boasts 12 VIP tables, each with ice bars filled with vodka, gin and whiskey, taking the term open bar to a whole new level. For guests who prefer getting their cocktails mixed for them the bar offers a cocktail menu that is sure to make everyone ready for the dance floor, which is livened up with old school classics to Deep House.

Le Baron 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01 47 20 04 01 ADVERTORIAL

“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants.

Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light.

Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of

becoming a comedian.

Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian.

How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab?

Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared

for any situation in the City of Light.

The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 500 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris...

Ohlala!

Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more.

This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH

THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY @ 7PM + SUNDAY @ 6PM

BOOKING

24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 th) M° Grands Boulevards

www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE

Not recommended for kids under 16 years old w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. com 73

Cabarets

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity .

Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin.

The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears.

Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

LIDO The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

74 WH E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2018 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

CRAZY HORSE

French Cancan Danseuse ©Moulin Rouge® - S.Bertrand

Moulin Rouge

© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2018 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 180€ - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77€ - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM 180€ - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM 77€

MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM

Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am.

25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12.

M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar.

The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Ice Kube Paris

The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up

ICE KUBE PARIS | Bars & Wine Bars (18th) 76 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49.

M° Pyramides

drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Kléber Bar

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78.

M° Boissière

Le Bristol Bar

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

Moonshiner

Pershing Hall

Hidden away off the Champs-Elysées in a 19th century mansion occupied by General Pershing during World War I, this hotel bar lounge is cosy, fun and serves original cocktails including the SparklingLalique. 49 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.58.36.58.00. M° George V

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila.

23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas.

58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65.

M° Les Halles

CASINO Casinos Barrière

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical.

Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière.

46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

JAZZ CLUBS Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel

LE BAR LONG | Bars & Wine Bars (8th)

ENTERTAINMENT

Address Book

Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night.

Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Pachamama

NIGHT CLUBS L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe.

The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges.

Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Baron

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door.

6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Mona Lisa

clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am.

47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Queen Club

This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V

JAZZ CLUB ETOILE

| Jazz Clubs (17th)

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté.

58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am.

5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

TITTY TWISTER

| Night Clubs (8th)

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The Guide

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris EUROSTAR & TRAINS

MEDICAL SERVICES

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying

stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com).

You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

LIMOUSINES Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

PARIS DISTRICTS

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25.

M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41.

M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge  74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

TAX REFUND When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood.

5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will

find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8 ), th

01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde 78 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Coldwell Banker - 8 rue Lamennais (8th), 01.83.53.53.53. M° George V Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The

Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge.

19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s

famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

iStock/©fotosipsak

HAIR SALONS

Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (4246 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO ORLY AIRPORT

TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT

The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€).

Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La MottePicquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La MottePicquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TER train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

ADVERTORIAL

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Visitors Bureau Reception teams, documentation and bookings are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centres. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 25 rue des Pyramides (1st), M° Pyramides.

Opening Hours: From November 1st to April 30th, 10am to 7pm.

Other branches include Gare du Nord (10th), Gare de l’Est (10th), Paris Rendez-vous (4th) M° Hôtel de Ville. www.parisinfo.com

Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room.

English, French, Spanish spoken.

7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05

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SERVICES

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

80 W H E R E PA R I S I A P R I L 2018

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

tiersPageV3.indd 2

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My Paris

STEPHANE MOUTTET

ASSISTANT HEAD CONCIERGE AT STARHOTELS CASTILLE PARIS

Institut du Monde Arabe

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do?

Walking is the best way to explore Paris and have a real feel of the city. I would start the day by exploring the Tuileries Garden, then walk by the Louvre Pyramid and explore the Quai de la Seine. You can walk to the Pont des Arts to visit the Mazarine Library, and then go to Ile de la Cité to see the Sainte-Chapelle and Notre-Dame. Then explore Ile Saint-Louis and finish in the Marais, at Place des Vosges.

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table?

Chez Benoit or Chez Eux. These are two authentic French bistros that give you a very good taste of French cuisine in Paris.

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city?

The Pantheon, which houses the remains of distinguished French citizens, is located atop of the Sainte-Genevieve hill, and it offers a beautiful view of Saint-Germain, Notre-Dame Cathedral and Ile Saint-Louis. The rooftop of 82 W HE RE PA R I S I A P R I L 2 01 8

Le 404 restaurant

Picasso Museum

Benoit

the Institut du Monde Arabe has a beautiful open terrace overlooking the River Seine and the back of the Notre-Dame.

As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions?

Avenue Montaigne and Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré are two iconic streets when it comes to fashion in Paris. If you prefer local fashion designers the Marais is the perfect place. Le Bon Marché on the Left Bank is also one of my favourite department stores.

For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner?

If you want something casual, the second floor of Le 404 is perfect for a romantic dinner. Low ceilings, only two tables and comfortable sofas and serving home-style cooking. If you want something more elegant I recommend the Jules Verne with its beautiful views overlooking Paris or L’Ambroisie restaurant with its very traditional and elegant décor.

What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see?

Le Musée Marmottan houses the biggest collection of Monet paintings in the world, Le College des Bernardins with its beautiful

gothic arches, the Saint-Thomas-d’Aquin church with the Saint-Louis chapel in the back of the church, the medieval tower of the Château de Vincennes and the Bibliothèque François Mitterrand with its courtyard filled with pine trees.

Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll?

On a sunny day, a very Parisian thing to do is to visit Père Lachaise, one of the world’s oldest cemeteries. It is serene and an interesting place for a walk. You can discover simple headstones to towering monuments. On a rainy day, the numerous passages of Paris offer a unique opportunity to discover another side of the City of Light.

My Perfect Day 9am: Breakfast at Café Méricourt.

12pm: Exploring the Marais and its unique boutiques. Visit the Musée des Archives Nationales or the Picasso Museum.

3pm: Indulge in a crepe at Breizh Café then a coffee at Boots.

9pm: Dinner at Chez George Mail followed by a cruise on the River Seine

where

®

Your Guide to the World

Sainte-Chapelle iStock photo 2018 © Dennisvdw; 404 Restaurant © DR; Picasso Museum © Fabien Campoverde; Benoit © Pierre Monneta; Institut du Monde Arabe © Cateloy

Sainte-Chapelle

38, RUE SAINT-MAUR - PARIS 11ème

© 2018 CULTURESPACES. PHOTO D.R.

GUSTAV KLIMT

AN IMMERSIVE ARTISTIC AND MUSICAL EXPERIENCE A GIANFRANCO

IANNUZZI - RENATO GATTO - MASSIMILIANO SICCARDI

REALISATION

13 APRIL - 11 NOVEMBER