Where Paris magazine, January 2019

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J A NU A R Y 2 0 19 Special Anniversary Issue

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

#300

10

CELEBRATING

OF PARIS DÉCO OFF FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS




January PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

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8 12

Hot Dates

16 20

PARIS | CONTENTS

The guide

This month’s calendar of must-see events

42 SHOPPING

Delightful Décor

Celebrate 10 years of design with Déco Off

The latest trends and the hottest fashions

Colourful and Contemporary

66 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

Meet talented artist Richard Orlinski

300 and Counting

A mind-blowing list of 300 things to discover in Paris

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 76 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 86 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 94 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings J A NU A R Y 2 0 19 Special Anniversary Issue

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

#300

10

CELEBRATING

OF PARIS DÉCO OFF

SIA PHOT

FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

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Celebrate design with Paris Déco Off (page 12) Cover Photo © Carole Communication

THE PORTFOLIO IN PARIS ®

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PARIS. MY WAY by where

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Welcome to Paris

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PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander* CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

To bring in the New Year in style we dedicate the first issue of 2019 to Paris and to our readers.

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This issue not only marks the first for the year but it also marks the 300th issue of Where Paris, and to celebrate both the New Year and this huge milestone we are gifting you, our readers, and visitors to the French capital with 300 things to discover in this gorgeous city. Made in France gifts, where to escape the cold and where to dine with the best view are only some of the things you will discover in our 22-page

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MVP I EUROPE MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

We also meet Richard Orlinski, the talented artist behind the famous polar bears and crocodiles sculptured in resin, and we chat with Inès de la Fressange, the model turned designer who for many epitomises the effortless Parisian chic look. From everyone here at Where we wish you a very Happy New Year and we hope you enjoy this issue.

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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Janvier 2019. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito

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January

HOT DATES What to do in Paris this month

Pick the Royal FROM JANUARY 6 Have a slice of the galette des rois, a traditional cake celebrating the Epiphany, and if you are the lucky finder of the hidden trinket inside you will become the king or queen of the day. This year pick the royal the chic way with Plaza Athénée’s vanilla frangipane galette courtesy of pastry chef Angelo Musa. You can order the golden pastry between the 2nd and the 24th of the month by calling 01 53 67 65 97. 8 W HE R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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PARIS THIS MONTH

Paris Fashion Week FROM JANUARY 5

Galette des Rois © by Studio des Fleurs; Schiaparelli DR; Table du Huit DR; Café de Flore DR; Hotel de Crillon, aRosewood Hotel, La Cave © Géraldine Bruneel

First day of Men’s Fashion Week begins today with designers showcasing their Autumn/ Winter 2019/2020 collections followed by the Haute Couture Fashion Week, which begins on the 21st and ends on the 24th with designers showcasing their couture Spring/Summer 2019 collections. It’s the calendar event of the month for the fashion world with fashion shows and events taking place around the heart of the city with fashionistas strutting around the fashion capital as if it were their own public runway turning the city into one giant, outdoor fashion show.

On Sale FROM JANUARY 9 Last month you spent most of your time shopping for everyone in the lead up to Christmas, this month shop for yourself and take advantage of the annual winter sales that begin today all around the city.

Chalet Cocktails ALL MONTH Escape the cold outside and enter into a winter wonderland at the La Table du Huit restaurant with its pop-up Chalet d’Hiver by Belvedere. Dine on mountain fare with the traditional raclette on the menu and sip on Belvedere vodka cocktails created especially for the Chalet. 8 rue Jean Goujon (8th), 01 40 74 64 94

Happy New Year ALL MONTH Start the New Year on a Parisian note, put on your coat and gloves and walk through the charming cobblestone streets of Saint-Germain before sitting at Café de Flore for a warm hot chocolate and a croissant. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 45 48 55 26

A Moment with Wine ALL MONTH Spend an evening tasting a rich collection of wine with Xavier Thuizat, the talented head sommelier at the Hôtel de Crillon. Accompanied by spectacular “light bites” prepared by chef Christopher Hache, the Exclusive Encounters with Xavier Thuizat are held in the hotel’s wine cellar, La Cave, and introduces you to 5 wines during the two-hour Encounter. Reservations are highly recommended as places are limited to 12. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01 44 71 15 17 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 9


PARIS THIS MONTH

Trades Shows & Arts Fair JANUARY 11-14 SALON DE LA PLONGEE SOUS-MARINE Voyage beneath the sea in this trade show devoted to deep sea diving. Discover the latest in equipment, destinations, diving news and more. The show is open from 10am to 7pm, until 9pm on the 11th and until 3pm on the 14th. www.salondelaplongee.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

JANUARY 18-22 MAISON & OBJET This trade show for professionals is the place to explore the latest in the art of living and the world of home fashion, bringing together décor, design, objects, tableware, furnishings, expertise and unique know-how. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 22nd. www.maison-objet.com Parc des Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte A free shuttle service is available from Roissy Charles de Gaulle airport every 30 minutes from 8:30am to 11:30am.

JANUARY 18-21 PREMIERE CLASSE This leading trade show exclusively reserved for professional showcases some hundreds of international fashion accessory brands and has been held for nearly 25 years now. The show offers some 50 workshops and the Fashions Solutions section brings together some 30 exhibitors covering a range of issues faced by fashion businesses. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm, and until 5pm on the 21st. www.premiere-classe.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

JANUARY 18-21 WHO’S NEXT

UNTIL JANUARY 9 Inspired by the award-winning movie I, Tonya? Show off your figure skating skills on the world’s largest ephemeral indoor ice-skating rink at Le Grand Palais des Glaces. Ave Winston Churchill (8th)

Winter Sports… In Virtual Reality THROUGH TO JANUARY 27 On the first floor of the Eiffel Tower go skiing down the slopes thanks to the genius of virtual reality. Climb the city’s most famous monument, take in the best view of Paris and take part in winter sports with the installation of the Xtreme Machines VR, a virtual reality platform that will plunge you directly into the thrill of taking part in winter sports. Visit www.toureiffel.paris to book or head directly to the Eiffel Tower. Champ de Mars, 5 ave Anatole France (7th) 10 W H E R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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JANUARY 19-21 SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE This glamorous event devoted to a world of intimates is for professionals only who can preview new lingerie, corsetry, hosiery, loungewear, swimwear and men’s underwear. Trends, themed conferences, fashion shows and six worlds of lingerie: the essentials, cocooning, designer labels, beautiful legs, super heroes and creative labels, are all on the agenda. The show is open from 9am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 21st. www.lingerieparis.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

JANUARY 24-27 THERMALIES This show brings you all that is water and well-being related. Some 300 exhibitors specialised in cures, treatments, thalassotherapy, spas and balneotherapy are on-hand to welcome you into a world of health and well-being. Workshops on thermal cures, collective yoga classes and practical relaxation workshops are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 27th. www.thermalies.com Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)

Grand Palais des Glaces © Didier Lefevre Goupe Luderic

On Thin Ice

This is the leading international fashion trade show for womenswear in Europe bringing together some 1500 French and international ready-to-wear and accessories brands. Workshops, conferences and plenty of trend information are all on the rich agenda of this show, which is open to fashion professionals only. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm, and until 5pm on the 21st. www.whosnext-tradeshow.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)



Feature

Delightful Décor CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF PARIS DECO OFF By Patrica Valicenti

D

écor is converging on the French capital this month for Paris Déco Off, which is bringing together some 120 houses of decoration in 100 showrooms on both banks of the Seine. The free event is celebrating its tenth anniversary in style this year and is being held from January 17th through to January 21st. The event from its inception has been conceived and organised by Carole Locatelli and Hughes Charuit and sees Parisian houses of décor open up their doors to the visiting houses from out of town and abroad with all parties showing their collections of wallpapers, fabrics, furnishings and home accessories to professionals and the public at large. This year the world of décor takes to the streets as well with monumental exhibitions in several squares around town. The shop windows of the showrooms will be working around the theme of 10 for the event’s always much-awaited shop window competition. The exhibition-event of the 10th Paris Déco Off is entitled Le Surdimensionné, meaning oversized and will feature no less than five key elements of decoration that have been crafted in monumental sizes. A dresser by Moissonnier and a sofa by Ecart and designed by Andrée Putman are among the furnishings on display. Some of the pieces will be auctioned

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off on February 14th with the proceeds going to the Insitut Curie. The installation works can be seen on the Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Place Furstemberg on the Left Bank and on the Place des Petits-Pères on the Right Bank. Also hitting the Place des Petits-Pères are trompe-l’oeil panels of doors that “open” onto fabrics in front of which you can take a picture with or without yourself opening the door. Meanwhile, the House of Drouot will be welcoming an exhibition of décor and designs by students in art and design schools who have been invited this year to create a fabric or a wallpaper for the competition that is dedicated to them. A cycle of free conferences by authors, decorators, journalists, bloggers and trendspotters is also on the agenda addressing the subjects of materials, innovation and recycling. One of the very festive highlights of the event is the evening of January 19th when the showrooms are open until 11pm and music and a food truck are in the streets. And as always and especially for the 10th Paris Déco Off, the pathways to the houses participating in the event are illuminated by lamps fashioned in linen by the event’s partner, the CELC Masters of Linen.


The Amazon fabrics from Camengo (opposite page); Monica Gasperini, Artemest screen covered in fireproof Skif fabric by Lelièvre; A scene from the rich collection of Carlucci de Chivasso; A sea of greens and blues from James Malone Fabrics

Among those houses one finds Osborne & Little whose Spring 2019 collections feature patterned embroideries drawing inspiration from Morocco, richly coloured velvets and decorative wallpapers boasting botanical themes. The house of Brochier, makers of interior decoration fabrics, is featuring luxurious velvets, black and white jacquards and an exclusive tropical floral jacquard that reproduced a hand painted drawing made by the in-house design team. The Spanish house of Gastón y Daniela turns out a line of high-end textiles, wallpapers, furniture and trimmings as it has done since its first shop was established in 1876. And this year’s offerings include an abundance of exuberant nature. Comfortable cushions are on the agenda at GP & J Baker whose Signature Print Collection captures the company’s heritage in dreamy colours ranging from soft blue to deep dark indigo. Three new prints have been added this year including the Caldbeck, a sinuous, curving floral stripe, and the 2019 Manuel Canovas collection, inspired by the great painter of colours, Henri Matisse. The palest of violets, glimmering green and snappy gold come through in a blend of graphic and decorative designs.

The house of Thibaut was founded in 1886 and it is the oldest continuously operating wallpaper company in the United States. This year Thibaut is presenting the Paramount collection of coordinating wallpaper, prints, wovens and embroidered fabrics featuring powerful visuals like peacocks and flower motifs. This year’s collection from Camengo presents highly colourful and whimsical fabrics of handcrafted cottons and jacquards with spring and summer themes, including a riotous display of tropical birds. The world of the sea with its seashells, fish, decorative crabs and seaweeds are all on from James Malone Fabrics. The house uses natural fibres like linen and wool and bamboo with unconventional prints along with jacquards and voiles and recently launched a line of wallpapers inspired by their textile designs. Little Greene has been synonymous with fine paints and wallpapers for some 300 years now and is the only British manufacturer still producing a complete range of traditional and modern paints. The house of Zuber, founded in 1797, is home to wallpapers and haute-couture fabrics that are hand-made in France using ancestral techniques, including the traditional woodblock printing technique, with all of their creations still being produced in their historic factory in a former commandry of the Teutonic knights. w w w.p ar i s m a p. fr 13


Feature

The MissoniHome collection is designed by Rosita Missoni and produced and distributed by the Italian company of home textiles and furnishings T&J Vestor. The collections feature the wonderful world of Missoni prints, the house’s signature, bursting forth in various captivating mosaics. Flowers and plants, gardens filled with myriad species emanate from the textile and wall covering collections of Casamance. Cotton, satin, jacquard, natural linen and sumptuous embroidery remain the hallmarks of the house’s creations. The family-owned Les Manufactures Catry has been specialised in the Wilton weaving technique of carpets for stairs, corridors and bespoke projects since 1912. Based in Roncq, in northern France, the house makes its products using Wilton’s rare looms and weaving techniques. Carlucci de Chivasso has brought out its Treasures of Time collection, a rich collection focusing on the unusual and the precious embodied in, for example, mysterious hues of vibrant jade or gold gingko. Nature in a sublimated mineral world is expressed in the Spring/Summer collection of the house of Alexandre Turpault entitled The Thickness of Things, enhancing material and texture revealed in stunning hues of pink sands, sands of coral or quartz crystal. The Swiss family-run business of Christian Fischbacher has been creating luxury textiles for some 200 years now. Both tradition and innovation are hallmarks of the house, which produces interior fabrics, accessories, carpets and wallpapers for homes and outside spaces. The Venice-based weaving mill of Luigi Bevilacqua is one of the oldest European mills still in operation today. The family-owned and operated house has been using the same techniques and materials, transforming natural threads into the finest of fabrics for palaces, homes and theatres all over the world. The only Italian manufacturer of soparizzo velvet, the house preserves a historic archive of 3500 patterns that are available to its clientele. The roots of the Bevilacqua family in the world of textile date back to 1499 and the current house was founded by Luigi Bevilacqua in 1875 after recovering looms and machines once used by the Silk Guild of the Republic of Venice.

Information point Hôtel Bel Ami 7 rue Saint-Benoît (6th)

Delightful decor from the house of Evolution 21 (Top) Adamas wallpaper from the Rituel collection of Pierre Frey with a pattern from the 1950s from the house’s archives. (Below)

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Hôtel Drouot 9 rue Drouot (9th), 01 48 00 20 20

Evolution21-© Jente Willems

First time exhibitors include Evolution 21, Noble Natural, Perennials and Jiun Ho 9:30am until 7:30pm and until 11pm on the 19th Thirty free Renault shuttles transport visitors from the Left Bank venues to the Right Bank venues and vice versa. For further information, maps and shuttle bus stops visit www.paris-deco-off.com. To register for the conferences email organisation@ paris-deco-off.com



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Interview Portrait of the artist Richard Orlinski wearing the watch he designed for Hublot (left); Crocodile in Red Resin, the First Sculpture by Richard Orlinski (top)

Colourful and Contemporary

A

By Patrica Valicenti

highly colourful and comfortable world unfolds in the Parisian offices of the French contemporary artist Richard Orlinski, regarded today as one of the best-selling of the French contemporary artists. The crocodiles, the King Kongs, a trio of howling wolves and the dinosaurs are just a small sampling of the astonishing sculptures and art works that one finds in the Orlinski universe or popping up where you would least expect them: the gardens of a hotel, on a mountain ski slope in Courchevel, or in a provincial museum coming face to face with the animal sculptures of François Pompon, perhaps one of France’s best known animal sculptors of the early 20th century.

Photo © Hublot /Laurent Xavier Moulin; © Richard Orlinski

The artist renders his creativity through myriad mediums: sculptures, paintings, and music. He does DJ sets on electro stages in France and abroad and he released a single last July, Gravity, with Anna Zak and Fat Joe. And next on his artistic agenda is his upcoming one-man show, written and directed by French humourist, author and television presenter Laurent Baffie, which is slated to begin touring in France towards the end of February and culminating in Paris on the celebrated and prestigious stage of the Olympia Theatre on June 17th. It was in 2004 that Richard Orlinski decided to devote himself to art and inspired by pop art culture created his highly colourful world peopled with the wildest of animals and iconic objects that marked the pop culture generation. Today, he is represented by 90 galleries around the world with three dedicated to his work only. It all began when he exhibited a brilliantly red crocodile sculpture in resin in Deauville at the American Film Festival. He brings art to places where it doesn’t exist. It is all about breaking the accepted ways of doing things, a theme explored in his autobiography, which reads more like a self-help guide, Pourquoi j’ai cassé des codes, which can translate as Why I Transcended the Codes.

an autobiography. “It is about what I found through this experience and I try to give that to others. It was a vocation,” he says, “In each chapter end I explain what I learned. The idea wasn’t to write an autobiography but to transmit something.” He works with an entourage of more than 200 collaborators and plays around with colours, materials, transparency and light. His works can be muted or glazed and are often created in spectacular sizes. He uses contemporary materials like resin or aluminium but also works in bronze or stone. He creates his work in five workshops in France working with myriad craftsmen including founders, welders, polishers, joiners and marble workers. “I started out by hand,” he explained, “we work on computer with 3D so we can see immediately what it is going to look like. The advantage is that it is more precise, more accurate,” he says, adding, “In reality the process remains the same, it starts in the brain.” His art is showcased in three galleries dedicated solely to his work located in Saint-Tropez, Singapore and Paris. “When you are in a multi-artist gallery you are concerned that you have very few works in the gallery, it is not representative of your work. Unlike many artists, I create a lot of works, I create a sculpture nearly every month whereas some artists spend three years,” he explains. “You can see a full representation of my work and it enables people to know where they are going. For the collectors and the spectators, they enter into a universe where the people there are trained to explain what it is all about. The doors are always open, the doors are always open that is a principle,” he says. And rendering art accessible is of great importance to him. One of his collaborations is with Disney for whom he sculpted his version of Mickey as the sorcerer’s apprentice.

“I broke the accepted codes because I didn’t have the choice, if I had had the choice I wouldn’t have broken the codes,” Orlinski explains in his visually-friendly Parisian offices. “When I launched into this artistic activity, no-one was waiting there for me and I watched the doors close, one after another, I had to find crossroads, like in Harry Potter Platform 9 3/4.”

“The collaboration I undertook with Disney, each time they bring it out, the piece is sold out, that enables me to render my art accessible,” he said.

“That meant insisting, working, reflecting in a thousand ways, it was an arduous route, it was about finding the right people, making choices,” he explained. For Orlinski the book was all about leaving a message rather than writing

“I don’t have the means to turn out a large series [and] it was thanks to Disney that I could do that,” he says, adding “That is the end result that I want, to render art accessible. That serves my aim,” he adds. w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 17


Interview

Sculpture of Mickey as the Sorcerer’s Apprentice in collaboration with Disney, Sculpture by Richard Orlinski; Scintillating Standing Wild Bear Sculpture in Chrome by Richard Orlinski; Rhinoceros Sculpture in Red Resin by Richard Orlinski; Colourful King Kong Throwing a Barrel Sculpture by Richard Orlinski

The artist also collaborated with the Swiss watchmaker Hublot creating the Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski. The timepiece, stamped with the graphic universe of the artist was brought out in two models, one in titanium and the other in blue ceramic, each limited to 200 pieces. He also does collaborations for charitable causes. Last summer to mark the 55th anniversary of the Porsche 911 and the Rolex Daytona, the artist and carmaker worked together creating the Porsche 911 by Orlinski featuring the artist’s colourful and shapely universe. The car was sold at auction in Monaco by the house of Antiquorum for over 230,000 euros with all the proceeds being donated to the charity Les Rois du Monde, which helps children in need and of which Orlinski is the vice-president. “I am very involved in charity work. I support over 30 associations around the world, he says, adding, “I also do activities in hospitals, workshops for children in hospitals in drawing or sculpture. I give but I get back a lot from this, we are very happy to have spent the day doing that.”

He will probably not be totally alone on stage. “There will certainly be one work on stage, not everywhere because there might not be enough room,” he confides. ORLINSKI’S ADDRESS BOOK IN PARIS Galerie Richard Orlinski 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 47 42 28 83 Matsuhisa Paris Royal Monceau Hotel, 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01 42 99 98 70 Musée Rodin 77 rue de Varenne (7th), 01 44 18 61 10

A very different type of collaboration brought the contemporary artist face to face with the French sculptor of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, François Pompon, in an exhibition entitled Le Choc des Titans (The Clash of the Titans) held in Saulieu in Burgundy from where Pompon hailed. The show, juxtaposing two artists who became known for their approach to animal sculptures, gave rise to a book of the same name. “François Pompon was one of the greatest French animal sculptors, who was not recognised that much in his lifetime. He was criticised for the simplification of his forms, like I have been. People didn’t understand and still now that it is much more difficult to simplify forms than to reproduce them identically,” he explains.

The next artistic adventure is his one-man show, Tête de Kong, a funny and intelligent take on art peppered with personal accounts of his life as an artist and art facts. “It is a lot of hard work,” he explains, “I am a perfectionist so I do things then I do them over.”

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Scan to watch our latest interview of Richard Orlinski on PARIS. MY WAY by where

Photos © Richard Orlinski

“It (the exhibition) was a real honour for me. It put his work in the spotlight and for me to be associated with him. I was very happy with this collaboration, a century apart,” he confides.


www.redline-boutique.com


300

AND COUNTING... By Sandra Iskander

This issue marks the 300th issue of Where Paris and to celebrate this huge milestone we are bringing you 300 things to discover in Paris in honour of our birthday issue. We start our countdown with the best spots to take in the most beautiful city in the world.

Eiffel Tower The Eiffel Tower was originally built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World Fair and it is the symbol of the French capital around the world so standing beneath it and climbing it all the way to the top is one of the most unforgettable things to experience. The iron structure, symbolising the City of Light the world over, is now over 125 years old, and is as grand as ever, sparkling and glittering with lights for five minutes every hour on the hour. Gustave Eiffel created the Iron Lady to stand 300 metres high, and with 1652 steps leading to the top, it is where you can see Paris from high above and fall in love with the most beautiful city in the world. 103 Quai Branly (7th), 01 44 11 23 23

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Sacré Coeur Looking down on the Place du Tertre is the Sacré Coeur. Breathtaking in the view it offers, the wedding cake Basilica sitting on the hilltop of Montmartre, the highest peak in Paris, is one of the most popular areas, with its magnificent stairs offering the ideal destination to take in the picture-perfect view of Paris. Inspired by Venice’s Saint Mark’s Basilica, the Sacré Coeur is RomanoByzantine in style and it features a tower that house the Savoyarde, a 19-tonne bell. 35 rue du Chevalier de la Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 00

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Arc de Triomphe Climb all the way to the rooftop to get a panoramic view of the city. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77 Ducasse sur Seine Alain Ducasse’s new electric river cruise invites you to a fine dining experience while taking in the sites along the River Seine. Port Debilly (16th), 01 58 00 22 08 Open Tour Bus tour showing you all the city’s main attractions. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01 42 66 56 56 Bus Toqué See the French capital while enjoying lunch or dinner aboard a bus. Place de la Concorde (8th), 06 21 40 20 41 Bateaux-Mouches Take in Paris’s monuments aboard this popular boat cruise. Port de la Conférence (8th), 01 42 25 96 10 Montparnasse Tower Make your way up the city’s tallest building for a breathtaking view from its observation deck. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01 45 38 52 56


Eiffel Tower, © iStockphoto 2018 zodebala; Galerie des Glaces (Hall of Mirrors) in the Palace of Versailles, Versailles, Myrabella / Wikimedia Commons; Montmartre, Sacré-Cœur Basilica, iStock © 2018 MarcelloLand

ROMANTIC PLACES Château de Versailles The Château de Versailles is known around the world for its opulence and its royal heritage. One of the most visited castles on the Ile de France, the Château de Versailles is exceptional in its design and its sprawling grounds, which boasts one of the most impressive and impeccably cared for gardens in the world. Within the Château itself a majestic décor awaits, with several apartments making up the Château that Marie-Antoinette once called home. Listed on UNESCO’s World Heritage list, the Château de Versailles features different apartments and salons including the Hall of Mirrors, which features 357 mirrors. Place d’Armes (enter at the Grille d’Honneur), 78000 Versailles, 01 30 83 78 00 Make sure you visit www.chateauversailles. fr for all opening times and daily programming.

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Deauville Nestled in the Normandy region in northwestern France, Deauville is only two hours from the French capital and it is where Paris’s high society escapes to on the weekend to spend time in their quaint seaside houses. Boasting boutiques, restaurants and a small town charm, Deauville is an ideal destination if you are looking for a relaxed and prestigious getaway during your time visiting the French capital. Musée de la Vie Romantique This museum, with one floor dedicated to the writer George Sand, was once the home of painter Ary Scheffer. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01 55 31 95 67 I Love You Wall A mural paved with tiles declaring I Love You in 300 languages. Square Jehan Rictus , 10 rue André Barsacq (18th) The Louvre Museum The world’s largest art museum and where the Mona Lisa is exhibited. Rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 40 20 53 17 Pont Neuf Watch the sunset from Paris’s oldest bridge.

TO SEE ON A WINTER’S DAY

Les Toiles Less than an hour from Paris is where you will find this movie theatre that you can privatise for the night. Choose the movie of your choice and spend the night in a bed right in the middle of the theatre. Reserve your movie night in at manuitaucine.com 2 blvd Victor Hugo, 60800, Crépy-en-Valois The Moulin Rouge The famous cabaret where the Cancan is danced. 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 Puces de Saint-Ouen Paris’s famous flea market. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt) Spa Le Bristol by La Prairie Enjoy a couple’s massage. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 53 43 41 67 Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée Reserve a table at this 3-star restaurant for an incredible fine dining experience. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 67 65 00

Hemingway Bar Have a glass of champagne in this Parisian institution. 15 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 43 16 33 74 Opéra de Paris Take in an opera at the opera house. Check www.operadeparis.fr for programming. 8 rue Scribe (9th) Place Vendôme Go jewellery shopping around the famous square where the world’s most famous jewellers are located including Cartier. Guerlain Create your own perfume at the French perfume house. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 62 52 57 Château de Chantilly Walk through the castle and its stables. 7 rue du Connétable, 60500 Chantilly, 03 44 27 31 80 Montmartre Get lost in the postcard neighbourhood of the city, going up and down its romantic stairs.

Paris Authentique Enjoy the 2-hour Paris Romantic Tour or the By Night Tour in a Citroën 2CV car. Call 06 64 50 44 19 or visit www.parisauthentic.com to reserve. Yachts de Paris Dine aboard the Don Juan II with the city’s monuments acting as the backdrop. Port Henri IV (4th), 01 44 54 14 70 Royal Monceau Cinema Every Sunday, this exclusive hotel movie theatre screens a movie at 6pm. Please check their website for programming. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01 42 99 88 00

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MADE IN FRANCE 31 Gratianne Bascans 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01 44 71 15 00

29 Saint Honoré Available at Ochrono Boutique 3 rue Perrault (1st), 01 42 36 92 07

30 Sawtay 37 rue du Dragon (6th), 01 45 44 88 49

33 Patrice Fabre 10 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 53 45 54 95

32 Le Mat Paris

Available at Empreintes Boutique 5 rue de Picardie (3rd), 01 40 09 53 80

34 L’ingénieuse Paris 107 blvd Murat (16th), 06 50 42 55 53

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Selima Optique 14 rue de Birague (4th), 01 47 63 23 39

36 Lothantique Available at Espace NGR 40bis rue de Boulainvilliers (16th), 01 45 27 32 42

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Petit Carreaux de Paris Avalaible at La Garçonnière 47 Rue des Archives (3rd), 09 73 68 14 47

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Petit Bateau 13 rue Tronchet (8th), 01 42 65 26 26

Comptoir de Mathilde 42 rue Rambuteau (3rd), 01 40 09 88 89

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UNDER ONE ROOF

NEW BEGINNINGS

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Apple The French capital has just welcomed a new Apple store on its most famous avenue. The now biggest Apple store in France boasts three floors and is powered by 100 per cent renewable energy, a healthy mix of being green and being tech smart. 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 70 98 09 00

Daily Pic Beaupassage

OTHER NEW ADDITIONS INCLUDE: Monoprix The popular and affordable lifestyle store is back after months of renovations with a sleeker look. 52 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 77 65 65 Pomellato The Italian jewellery house has a new home on the chic Rue Saint-Honoré. 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 65 62 07 J.M. Weston The luxury footwear brand’s new flagship boutique. 55 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 62 26 47 Chanel New flagship boutique where you will find the fashion house’s accessories, jewellery and beauty products. 19 rue Cambon (1st), 01 44 50 34 19 Smallable The multi-brand’s new boutique dedicated to children. 82 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 09 72 66 27 03

Laure Sélignac The house specialising in porcelain is showcasing its new collections of home décor and jewellery in its newly inaugurated boutique. 17 ave Friedland (8th), 01 45 42 58 71 Hermès After 2 years of renovations the luxury brand’s George V boutique has reopened. 42 ave George V (8th), 01 47 20 48 51 Espace Rolex Royal Quartz The high-end timepiece house has opened a boutique dedicated to its latest creations in the Marais. 11 rue des Archives (4th), 01 43 37 83 12 Rue Begand The men’s ready-to-wear brand has finally opened its first boutique in Paris in the Marais. 58 rue Charlot (3rd), 01 71 60 55 29 Rossignol The specialists in skiwear have just opened up their flagship store in Paris. 21 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 09 71 30 98 49

Make My Lemonade The ready-to-wear brand’s first boutique with its very own café serving a hipster’s diet staple, avocado toa st. 61 Quai de Valmy (10th), 09 67 42 23 97

Beaupassage © Serge Chapuis

Leoca The Parisian fashion brand’s first boutique. 48 rue Saint-Placide (6th), 01 43 20 25 29

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BHV Marais Department store with an impressive DIY section. 52 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09 77 40 14 00

Citadium Multi-brand store specialising in sportswear and streetwear. 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01 55 31 74 00 Galeries Lafayette High-end department store. 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 Merci Multi-brand boutique showcasing established as well as up-and-coming designers. 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01 42 77 00 33 Montaigne Market High-end multi-brand boutique. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01 81 70 26 16

Chiara Ferragni The Italian influencer/designer’s first boutique in Paris. 22 rue Debelleyme (3rd), 01 43 31 47 78 Maisons du Monde The popular home décor store, inspired by different countries, has opened its latest branch in the Boulogne neighbourhood. 160 blvd Jean Jaurès, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 46 74 61 19

In the chic 7th arrondissement of the city, on the Left Bank, is a new “quarter” grouping together some of the city’s most celebrated chefs. Coming together to create a gourmet experience, Beaupassage boasts restaurants, cafés and a bakery bringing you the crème de la crème of French cuisine. Bite into a French pastry from Pierre Hermé’s café, take away a quinoa salad from Anne-Sophie Pic’s casual eatery, Daily Pic Beaupassage, or have dinner at Yannick Alléno’s wine bar restaurant. Open daily from 7am to midnight. Beaupassage 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th)

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Le Drugstore Parisien A novelty store where you can find fun and handy finds including the emergency t-shirt as well as a wide selection of beauty products. 66 rue de la Chaussée d’Antin (9th)

Nous Multi-brand boutique with a focus on offering limited edition and exclusive high-end items. 48 rue Cambon (1st), 01 40 28 40 75 Printemps High-end department store. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00 Vallée Village A village-like setting with luxury brand outlets. 3 Cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris, 01 60 42 35 00 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 23


UPON APPOINTMENT ONLY YOU CAN… Take in a private concert in the Notre-Dame cathedral after it has closed to the public with Secret Journeys’s exclusive guided tours. You can book your visit at www.secretjourneys.travel. Create your very own bespoke Hellen TOM bag with the house designer Helen. Email contact@hellen.fr to reserve your appointment to start on your design. Design your own bespoke leather shoes with R&K. the Parisian footwear house scans every gentleman’s feet to create the perfect fit. 24 rue des Boulangers (5th), 01 82 09 48 41 Furnish your wardrobe with Authentiques’s bespoke hangers made with leather, silk and wood. www.authentiques-paris.com

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Shop the latest Morgan collection in a private apartment with a personal shopper in the L’Appartement Morgan. By appointment only. 11 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 40 26 71 47

Authentiques

FOR REGULAR VISITORS IT’S TIME TO SEE SOMETHING NEW

Take in the Wonder Land art exhibition at the Secret Gallery featuring works by SadeOne and Reda Amalou. 19 rue de Varenne (7th), 01 40 58 47 46 Visit the recently opened bookstore in Azzedine Alaïa’s gallery where the late fashion designer used to work. 18 rue de la Verrerie (4th), 01 42 74 49 66

Discover the limited edition Dolph Lundgren by Chapal leather jackets, numbered and signed by the Creed 2 actor. 244 rue de Rivoli (1st), 06 16 11 56 60 Dine in the exclusive Cristal Room in the Baccarat crystal museum. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01 40 22 11 10

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Lunch on a huge seafood platter at Bar à Huitres. 33 rue Saint-Jacques (5th), 01 44 07 27 37

Voyage to Brazil via Boteco Vila Mada’s cocktail and tapas menu. 51 ave Trudaine (9th)

Submerge yourself in light at the Atelier des Lumières where the works of artists such as Klimt are projected on the walls all around you. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), 01 80 98 46 00 Sip on signature cocktails to the sounds of jazz at Bar Joséphine in the recently reopened Hôtel Lutetia. 45 blvd Raspail (6th), 01 49 54 46 00 Laugh hysterically thanks to Olivier Giraud’s comic talents and his stand-up show, How to Become

Boteco Vila Mada

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Shop the latest Havaianas collection inspired by the Justice League superheroes. 84 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 45 44 72 42

Parisian in One Hour? Showing at Théâtre des Nouveautés. 24 blvd Poissonnière (9th) Spend the evening with jazz at the famous Les Duc des Lombards jazz club. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01 42 33 22 88 Marvel at the light shedding through the stained glass windows and flooding the SainteChapelle, located in the heart of the medieval Palais de la Cité. 8 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80

Havaianas DR

Take in a burlesque show at Le Burlesque Klub. Every Friday and Saturday night at 11pm. 3 Quai de Montebello (5th), 07 84 12 18 72


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See the new Michael Jackson: On the Wall exhibition that explores the celebrated artist’s impact on contemporary art. Grand Palais 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th) Watch the Kiev National Opera Ballet perform The Nutcracker to the music of Tchaikovsky. Showing until the 6th of January. Théâtre des Champs-Elysées 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 49 52 50 50 See Jean Paul Gaultier’s cabaret, Fashion Freak Show. Folies Bergère 32 rue Richer (9th) Take in the first major photo exhibition of French photographer JR. Maison Européenne de la Photographie 5 rue de Fourcy (4th)

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Spend the day shopping at the Beaugrenelle shopping centre. 12 rue Linois (15th) Take a cooking class and learn how to make foie gras. Le Cordon Bleu 13 Quai André Citroën (15th), 01 85 65 15 00 Enjoy a lazy Sunday brunch. Le Yacht Club 8 rue Saint-Lazare (9th), 09 53 57 61 15 Enjoy all-day breakfast with an eggs benedict special menu. Benedict 19 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie (4th), 01 42 76 91 37 Take in a matinee show of the Lido. 116 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 Relax and Zen out with a yoga class. Le Tigre Yoga Class Club 19 rue de Chaillot (16th), 09 84 54 17 34 Take a dip in the legendary Molitor indoor pool. Molitor Club & Spa 8 ave de la Porte Molitor (16th), 01 56 07 08 80

Catch the musical Chicago. Théâtre Mogador 25 rue de Mogador (9th), 01 53 32 32 32 Dine on foie gras and oysters by the fireplace on a boat. River Café 146 Quai de Stalingrad, 92130 Issy-les-Moulineaux, 01 40 93 50 20 Take in an exhibition at the Musée d’Orsay, which was once a train station. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01 40 49 48 14

Chicago le Musical Photo © Caliz

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Show off your figure skating skills on the world’s largest ephemeral indoor ice-skating rink. Open until the 9th of January. Le Grand Palais des Glaces Ave Winston Churchill (8th)

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HOT ACCESSORIES

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99 - Etnia Barcelona Available at Optique de la Madeleine Boutique, 14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01 42 65 47 36 100 - Courtois Paris 8 rue de Babylone (7th), 09 83 51 92 72 101 - Alexander McQueen 372 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 70 80 78 00 102 - Atelier Paulin 60 rue de Richelieu (2nd), 01 76 54 35 48 103 - Enegertix Available at www.energetix.tv 104 - Sylvia Toledano 26 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01 42 33 17 30 105 - Chanel 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 53 05 98 95 106 - Fratelli Rossetti 237 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 42 65 26 60 107 - Lalique 11 rue Royale (8th), 01 53 05 12 81 108 - Balmain Available exclusively at Printemps 109 - Louboutin 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 08 00 94 58 04 110 - Free Lance 30 rue du Four (6th), 01 45 48 14 78 111 - Ash Available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 26 W HE R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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Chanel © Chanel Horlogerie

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OUR FAVOURITE IT BAGS 113 121

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Hermès Sac Musardine photo Vicente Sahuc

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112 - Gérard Darel, 22 rue Royale (8th) 01 42 96 11 70 113 - Lancel, 8 Place de l’Opéra (9th), 01 47 42 37 29 114 - Hermès, 42 ave George V (8th), 01 47 20 48 51 115 - Ermanno Scervino, 18 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 40 98 00 44 116 - Marni, 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 56 88 08 08 117 - Kenzo, 27 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01 42 61 04 14 118 - Coach, 372-374 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 42 86 02 39 119 - Giorgio Armani, 2 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 56 62 12 16 120 - Corto Moltedo, Jardins du Palais Royal, Galerie de Valois - Colonnes 146 à 148 (1st), 01 49 27 97 91 121 - Dior, 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 45 63 12 51 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 27


CHILDREN’S DAY OUT Disneyland Disneyland, the happiest place on earth is the rendezvous for you and your children to meet all your favourite characters. Mickey and Minnie are on hand to show you around and fun rides are just the beginning of your fun-filled visit. Scare yourself silly and ride the Tower of Terror or experience life as a rat on the Ratatouille ride, or maybe try making your way out of Alice’s Curious Labyrinth and riding on the Disneyland Railroad. The park offers some great eateries including Inventions, the restaurant found in the colonial-style Disneyland Hotel where during lunch hour and brunch on Sundays Disney’s most popular characters pop in to mingle with the diners. And make sure you do not miss the Disney Illuminations show where Sleeping Beauty’s Castle is used as the backdrop to a wonderful light and sound show that sees all your favourite characters projected on the castle before a colourful fireworks display with Disney’s biggest musical hits including Frozen’s Let It Go bringing it all to a fabulous end. From Paris take the RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy DisneylandParis.com; Please check website for all opening hours.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS Parc Astérix An attraction park based on France’s most popular cartoon characters, Astérix and Obelix. There are direct shuttles available from the Louvre in front of the Palais Royal metro station (99 rue de Rivoli, 1st), alternatively you could take the RER B train to Charles de Gaulle airport terminal 1 then take the Parc Astérix shuttle from platform A3. www.parcasterix.fr/en

Jardin d’Acclimatation An amusement park located in the heart of the Bois de Boulogne, featuring a locomotive train. Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01 40 67 90 85 www. jardindacclimatation.fr

Atelier Renault A car showroom complete with a restaurant and fun activities for children including creating their own cartoons. 53 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 76 84 14 14

L’Aquarium de Paris The city’s main aquarium, which boasts a touch pool. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01 40 69 23 23

Sea Life An aquarium located in the Val d’Europe shopping centre. 14 Cours du Danube, 77700 Serris, 01 60 42 33 66

WHERE TO SHOP FOR THE LITTLE ONES Bonpoint 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01 40 51 98 20 Bonton 5 blvd des Filles du Calvaire (3rd), 01 42 72 34 69 Bleu Comme Gris 24 rue Marbeuf (8th), 09 87 36 07 99

Jardin d’Acclimatation

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Duisneyland Paris photo GU; Jardin d’Acclimatation Speed-rockets © Sylvain Bachelot

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Devred 1902 26 ave. de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 61 71 07

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Redline 161 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 44 64 92 24

The Kooples 191 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 40 20 93 85

131 Fila Available at Printemps Haussmann, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00

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137 Figaret

18/20 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01 40 06 94 90

135 Louis Pion 9 rue Auber (9th), 06 68 95 84 97

TAG Heuer 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01 58 18 31 07

LOOKS FOR LUI 141 Leica 105-109 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 77 72 20 70 140

Caran d’Ache 38 rue de l’Arcade (8th), 01 42 65 57 92

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Hugo Boss 43 ave. de l’Opéra (2nd), 01 47 03 94 00

142 Eden Park 194 rue de Courcelles (17th), 01 46 22 62 10

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Patek Philippe 10 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 42 44 17 77

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139 Salvatore Ferragamo 46 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 43 12 96 96

Junghans Available at Wempe Boutique, 16 rue Royale (1st), 01 42 60 21 77

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Pullin 8 rue Française (2nd), 01 42 36 91 06

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Vilbrequin x Massimo Vitali 281 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 40 15 64 06

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SHOP TILL YOU DROP Add to your charm collection with Pandora’s new and limited edition charms. 132 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 42 22 31 44

Splurge on a luxury leather bag from French house Moreau Paris. 49 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 70 38 77 00

Discover the colourful new collection from ready-to-wear brand Essentiel Antwerp. 10 rue du Marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 09 67 21 40 03

Slip into a pair of the iconic tennis shoes from Bensimon. 78 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01 42 21 37 16 Drench yourself in the goodness of the south with L’Occitane en Provence’s skincare products. 93 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 42 22 48 74 If you’re heading to Courchevel make sure you drop by Fusalp for your snow gear. 155 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 40 47 67 37 Check out the Banksy capsule collection designed for Eleven Paris. 32 rue Etienne Marcel (2nd), 01 42 33 30 64 Stock up on all your favourite music and DVDs at Fnac. 74 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 08 25 02 00 20 Indulge in glazed chestnuts from Boissier, the sweet shop that originated the marron glacé. 48 rue de Passy (16th), 01 45 03 50 77 Discover the latest collection Juste un Clou collection from Cartier. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 18 23 00

Add a touch of glamour to your lingerie collection with new pieces from La Perla. 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 43 12 33 60 Try on the new Lanvin collection in the house’s flagship boutique. 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 44 71 31 73 Add to your fashionista street cred and visit the Maison Margiela boutique for a quick wardrobe update. 13 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01 45 49 06 68 If you are looking for affordable jewellery make sure you pop into the Maty boutique for a wide selection of pieces. 4 Place de l’Opéra (2nd), 01 47 42 94 00 For Italian flair in fashion nothing comes close to Miu Miu. Check out the new collection in their new boutique. 1 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 58 62 53 20 Get practical but remain chic with Prada’s Nylon collection of bags. 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 23 99 40

Update your loungewear at Darjeeling. 152 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 42 22 08 97

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Slide into a pair of boat shoes from Rivieras, the go-to name in leisure shoes. 125 rue de Turenne (3rd), 09 50 60 00 96 30 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

Fall in love with Valentino’s signature red dresses. 17 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 23 64 61

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Slide into a pair of boat shoes from Rivieras, the go-to name in leisure shoes. 125 rue de Turenne (3rd), 09 50 60 00 96


A TIME TO RELAX

MORE RELAXING ADDRESSES

After 18 long months the Four Seasons Hotel George V spa finally reopened and it is bigger and better than before. While most other spas are managed by one skincare brand, here there are no less than three different names to answer every client’s needs, creating bespoke treatments and customised experiences. Swiss Perfection, Dr. Burgener and Alaena all work together in one space to offer clients a moment of relaxation as well as a moment of beauty, offering treatments that cure fatigue as well as signs of aging. While the spa prides itself on bespoke treatments, it also offers signature treatments that include the Parisian Experience, a full-body deep tissue massage that focuses on reenergising the body. Le Spa Four Seasons Hotel George V 31 ave George V (8th), 01 49 52 72 10

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Aveda Hair Salon 7 rue du Louvre (1st), 01 42 61 30 33 David Mallett Hair Salon 14 rue Notre Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01 40 20 00 23 John Nollet Hair Salon Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 55 80 71 50 Valmont Spa Hôtel Le Meurice 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 77 Delbove Counter at Le Bon Marché for potionlike skincare products including the Crème Sorcière Balancing Cleanser & Cream 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 81 81 Free Persephone Nail Salon 66 blvd Raspail (6th), 01 42 22 13 04

Four Seasons Hotel George V, SPA Piscine © Anthony Parkinson; La Shaperie © Rodrigo Paolo; La Garçonnière © G.Hermach

GROOMED GENTLEMEN Gentlemen have their beauty needs as well and that is where Integrall steps in with a collection of skincare products just for him. Eye care, cleansers and hair treatments are all on the menu for every gentleman. Available at Cercle Delacre 17 ave George V (8th), 01 40 70 99 70 La Barbière de Paris Chic barbershop where the only female barber in Paris works her grooming magic on hairstyling, beard trimming and even beauty care. 7 rue Bertin Poirée (1st), 01 40 26 01 01 La Garçonnière A barbershop nestled in the back of a lifestyle store just for him. 47 rue des Archives (4th), 09 73 68 14 47

La Shaperie

La Shaperie This cool address, which stocks cool sunglasses and hats, boasts a barbershop for all your trimming needs. 62 rue de l’Ar bre Sec (1st), 01 53 28 89 80

La Garçonnière

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SCENTED

SOUVENIRS

Remember Paris with a perfume from one of the city’s scented addresses

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Acqua di Parma The Italian house captures the sunny side of Italy in its fragrances. 6 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 42 74 87 08

Penhaligon’s British perfumer with scents inspired by traditions including the British tradition of afternoon tea. 34 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 42 77 80 28

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Jovoy A wonderful multibrand boutique specialising in perfume, offering niche brands including BDK. 4 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01 40 20 06 19

By Kilian Luxury niche perfume house created by Kilian Hennessy where the scents are inspired by sensuality and sexuality. 20 rue Cambon (1st), 01 40 39 94 14

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Maître Parfumeur et Gantier A luxury niche perfume house where amber figures prominently in the notes. 5 rue des Capucines (1st), 01 42 96 35 13

Atelier Cologne Unisex colognes made in France and inspired by the citrus scents of the first Eau de Cologne created in 1709. 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01 42 60 00 31

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Jo Malone The British brand specialises in fragrance combining by layering two fragrances to create your favourite blend. The brand also offers a selection of body products. 326 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 47 03 01 66

L’Artisan Parfumeur Niche perfumes ranging from the florals to the oriental with scented candles and shower gels complementing the collection. 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 43 27 47 87

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Le Labo Based in Paris, this luxury house specialises in personalised scents with each bottle bearing the name of the client. The house also offers a collection of ready-to-wear perfumes including Vanilla 44 that is sold exclusively in Paris. 203 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 45 08 94 60

Byredo The Swedish brand offers scents for him and her inspired by the founder’s travels to India. 199 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 61 47 68 32 W HER E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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Roger & Gallet French perfumer specialising in the art of layering with each scent available in a shower gel, body lotion and of course perfume. 195 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 10 68

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Juliette Has a Gun Created by Romano Ricci, this niche brand works to bring ladies powerful scents to arm themselves and to seduce. 2 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 45 74 00 00

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Liquides A perfume bar showcasing the perfumes of different houses including Arquiste. 9 rue de Normandie (3rd), 09 66 94 77 06

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Marionnaud A chain of boutiques where you can find an attractive selection of all your favourite perfumes. 59 rue des Petits Champs (1st), 01 42 96 00 24

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Nose A charming boutique with over 500 perfumes to choose from. 20 rue Bauchaumont (2nd), 01 40 26 46 03

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Sephora A wonderful cosmetic haven where a plethora of all your favourite perfumes are found. 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50

Penhaligon’s © Penhaligon’s; Iluustration iStock 2018

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DESIGNER DECOR

Fragonard 5 rue Boudreau (9th), 01 40 06 10 10

Maison Berger 27 rue de Marignan (8th), 01 53 75 48 94

Durance 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01 47 42 04 10

Diptyque 330-332 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 42 33 19 79

Sieger by Fürstenberg Available at Club Pierre Brochard Boutique, 9 rue Pasquier (8th), 01 44 51 56 00

Lumio Available at The Conron Shop Boutique, 117 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 84 10 01

Smeg 82 blvd de Sébastopol (3rd), 01 42 78 67 25

Au Bain Marie 55 rue de l’Université (7th), 01 42 71 08 69

Christofle 221 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 40 13 10 43

Coedition 71 ave Bosquet (7th), 01 80 05 50 76

Maison Sarah Lavoine 6 Place des Victoires (2nd), 01 40 13 75 75

Alessi 31 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 42 66 31 00 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 33


DINING WITH A VIEW If a view is worth a thousand words then Girafe is worth a million. The French capital’s new favourite restaurant, Girafe, is not only a fantastic seafood restaurant but it offers a breathtaking view of the city’s jewel, the Eiffel Tower. Nestled in the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, Girafe is an art deco tribute when it comes to design, and a contemporary ode to seafood with fresh platters and modern dishes created to let the seafood remain the star on the plate whether mixed in with fresh pasta, grilled or served raw. Girafe 1 Place du Trocadéro (16th), 01 47 62 70 61

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PARIS’S OTHER FABULOUS RESTAURANTS WITH A VIEW Café de l’Homme - Contemporary Cuisine 17 Place du Trocadéro (16th), 01 44 05 30 15 Café Marly - Contemporary Cuisine 93 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 49 26 06 60 Georges - Contemporary Cuisine Centre Pompidou, 6th Floor Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01 44 78 47 99 Loulou - Mediterranean Cuisine 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 41 96 Monsieur Bleu - French Cuisine 20 ave de New York (16th), 01 47 20 90 47 Perruche - French Cuisine Printemps de l’Homme, Rooftop 2 rue du Havre (8th), 01 42 82 60 00 La Tour d’Argent - French Cuisine 17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01 43 54 23 31


TOP 8 GLUTEN-FREE ADDRESSES

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Yummy & Guiltfree Cute little restaurant serving gluten-free waffles, both sweet and savoury. 9 blvd Montmartre (2nd), 01 42 60 81 98

Wild & The Moon Cold-pressed juices, ready-made salad and acai bowls are all on the menu at this gluten-free vegan eatery. 55 rue Charlot (3rd), 01 86 95 40 44 Detox Delight Found nestled in the heart of the beauty department of Printemps, this café serves up vegan and gluten-free ready-to-eat dishes that are all free of preservatives. Cold-pressed juices are also available, from veggie mixes to sweeter fruity ones. 61bis rue Caumartin (9th), 01 42 82 62 53 Little Nonna An Italian pizzeria serving gluten-free pizza. Diners will also find salads, avocado smash on gluten-free bread and even Italian desserts made the gluten-free way. 12 ave Niel (17th), 01 46 22 68 17

Le Restaurant

VEGAN & VEGETARIAN OPTIONS La Bauhinia Under the beautiful glass dome of the Shangri-La Hotel restaurant, you can enjoy a vegan high tea every Saturday and Sunday, from 4 to 5.30pm. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01 53 67 19 91 Le Restaurant This Michelin-starred restaurant is located in the famous L’Hotel hotel where Oscar Wilde spent his last days. Le Restaurant’s new chef, Gregory Réjou, has recently created a vegetarian menu that is carefully put together to offer diners a refined dining experience. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01 44 41 99 00 Artcurial Sense.eat Inside the chic auction house, Artcurial, is the new Italian vegetarian restaurant serving authentic Italian cuisine. The menu also includes vegan and gluten-free dishes. 7 Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées Marcel Dassault (8th), 01 53 76 39 34

Foucade Pastry shop specialising in gluten-free cakes and pastries. 61 rue de Bretagne (3rd), 01 42 36 11 81 Helmut Newcake Bakery specialising in gluten-free bread and pastries. 28 rue Vignon (9th), 09 81 31 28 31

Kinn Khao This casual eatery serves traditional Thai cuisine with delicious vegetarian options including Pad Thai and green curry. 10 rue Mayran (9th), 01 71 73 92 64

Chambelland Organic and gluten-free bakery. 14 rue Ternaux (11th), 01 43 55 07 30 BigLove Caffé This popular Italian restaurant’s pizzas are gluten-free. Please note that everything else is on the menu contains gluten. 30 rue Debelleyme (3rd), 01 42 71 43 62

Uma Nota A Brazilian/Japanese fusion tapas restaurant with plenty of options for vegetarians including the miso-glazed roasted eggplant and the vegetarian ceviche made with mushrooms, avocado and hearts of palm. 86 rue Réaumur (2nd), 01 42 33 07 71

TOP 5 MEDITERRANEAN EATERIES

Girafe Photo © Adrien Dirand;; Le Restaurant © L’Hotel

Else

Else Israeli cuisine 49 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 41 08 78

Balagan

L’As du Fallafel Casual falafel restaurant 32 rue des Rosiers (4th), 01 48 87 63 60 Le Brach Modern Mediterranean cuisine 1 rue Jean Richepin (16th), 01 44 30 10 00 Mavrommatis Greek cuisine 70 ave Paul Doumer (16th), 01 40 50 70 40

Else

Balagan Israeli/Middle Eastern cuisine 9 rue d’Alger (1st), 01 40 20 72 14

231 Balagan

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Around the corner from the Arc de Triomphe is where chef Jean-Edern Hurstel has opened Edern, his first restaurant in Paris. With a mixture of an exposed stonewall, pop art on the wall and graphic banquettes, the restaurant is a surprisingly cosy address that becomes even so with the sounds of the live music playing in the background. On the menu, the chef has created seasonal dishes that are both hearty and refined. Try the crispy langoustine seasoned with basil and served with an apple sauce, perfect to share, and then order the fresh sea bream ceviche with cucumber and avocado. Mains include marinated Black Angus steak served with parsnip ravioli, and caviar linguine. And make sure you leave room for the pastry chef’s stand-out dessert, the apple pie, with perfectly caramelised apples sitting plump on a buttery pastry base and served with a smooth caramel sauce and dulce de leche ice-cream. The restaurant also boasts a cigar lounge and a bar, which serves some of the city’s best cocktails. This is a great restaurant if you are looking for a lounge vibe and service with a smile. Edern 6 rue Arsène Houssaye (8th), 01 45 63 88 01

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Brutus Casual eatery serving sweet and savoury crepes. 99 rue des Dames (17th), 09 86 53 44 00

L’Ami Louis This Parisian institution is known for its côte de boeuf and its towering serving of fries. With limited seating reservations are highly recommended. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01 48 87 77 48 39V This table is a gastronomical haven with generous servings of fine food and where an enclosed terrace resides. After sampling dishes from the frequently updated menu, enjoy your coffee under the stars in the secret garden complete with orange trees. 39 ave George V (8th), 01 56 62 39 05 Maison de la Truffe This restaurant works truffles into its every dish. Try the signature truffle cream pizza and the mashed potato generously topped with black truffles. 14 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01 53 57 41 00 Grand Café Fauchon A wonderfully colourful address where diners are invited to sample traditional Parisian brasserie fare as well as lighter, more contemporary options. The highlight here is of course the dessert menu. 11 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01 87 86 28 23 Beau & Fort French restaurant specialising in cheese, with every dish highlighting a different variety of cheese. 37 rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th), 01 45 89 23 96 36 W H E R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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Le Congrès Maillot Traditional French restaurant serving authentic dishes until 2am. 80 ave de la Grande-Armée (17th), 01 45 74 17 24 Le Grand Véfour An opulent two-star restaurant nestled in the Palais Royal where chef Guy Martin serves fine French fare with dishes including his signature duck foie gras ravioli served with a truffle cream. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01 42 96 56 27 Le Coq Rico Chef Antoine Westermann’s famous French bistro specialising in poultry dishes. 98 rue Lepic (18th), 01 42 59 82 89

Jean-Edern Hurstel-Restaurant Edern © Marco Strullu; Le 39V DR; La Pâtisserie du Meurice par Cédric Grolet Pierre Monetta; La Chocolaterie Cyril Lignac © Charlotte Lindet

FRENCH CUISINE

When in Paris dining on French cuisine is a pleasure and with so many tables to choose from it could get quite overwhelming. Here we have done the hard work for you and bring you the French capital’s best addresses.


A CITY FULL OF SWEETNESS Our Top 11 Dessert Pit Stops La Pâtisserie du Meurice par Cédric Grolet 6 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01 44 58 10 10 Gérard Mulot 76 rue de Seine (6th), 01 43 26 85 77 Pierre Marcolini 3 rue Scribe (9th), 01 44 71 03 74 Christophe Michalak Coffee Shop 60 Faubourg Poissonnière (10th), 01 42 46 10 45 La Maison du Chocolat 8 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01 47 42 86 52 L’Eclair de Génie 14 rue Pavée (4th), 01 42 77 85 11 La Pâtisserie des Rêves 93 rue du Bac (7th), 09 72 60 93 19 Michel Cluizel 3 rue Tronchet (8th), 01 80 06 84 00 Popelini 44 rue des Martyrs (9th), 01 42 81 35 79 Karamel 67 rue Saint-Dominique (7th), 01 71 93 02 94 La Chocolaterie Cyril Lignac 34 rue du Dragon (6th), 01 55 87 21 40

252 242

La Pâtisserie du Meurice par Cédric Grolet

La Chocolaterie Cyril Lignac w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 37


% Arabica The Japanese coffee kiosk specialising in lattes. Beaupassage 53 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01 43 21 13 41

WAKE UP CALL Despite all the cafés found on what seems every corner of the city, it’s not always easy finding a good cup of coffee. And if you’re looking for something a little bit more refined than Starbucks then make sure you try a cup of Joe from our favourite addresses specialising in caffeine hits.

Belleville Brûlerie Great espressos and filtered coffee, made with beans roasted on site. 14bis rue Lally-Tollendal (19th), 09 83 75 60 80

Holybelly Melbourne-style café where the water used to make the coffee goes through a reverse-osmosis system to make the best coffee. 5 rue Lucien Sampaix (10th), 01 82 28 00 80 La Compagnie du Café Where coffee is made with freshly roasted beans inhouse. 19 rue Notre Dame de Lorette (9th), 09 81 25 74 16

Café Coutume Specialty coffee by awardwinning roaster Antoine Nétien. 47 rue Babylone (7th), 01 45 51 50 47

86Champs A coffee bar where you can grab your blended coffee on the go. 86 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 70 38 77 38

Café Kitsuné Brought to you by music and fashion label Maison Kitsuné. Jardin du Palais Royal 51 Galerie de Montpensier (1st), 01 40 15 62 31

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Belleville Brûlerie

Terres de Café Offers an impressive selection of over 30 exclusive specialty coffees. 33 rue des Batignolles (17th), 01 53 30 06 80

ALL ABOUT CHOCOLAT

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Hoct&Loca - Chocolate Bar 99 rue de la Verrerie (4th), 01 45 32 12 09 Hugo & Victor - Pop-Up Chocolate Bar Les Jardins du Marais 74 rue Amelot (11th), 01 40 21 20 00 Ladurée Tea Salon 74 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 75 08 75 Pierre Hermé Café Beaupassage 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01 82 73 27 20

Hoct&Loca

Belleville Brûlerie DR; Angelina DR; Hoct&Loca DR

Angelina

If you prefer your hot drink to be more of a liquid dessert, then you must pop into Paris’s best hot chocolate rendezvous spots and on top of that list is Angelina. The Parisian institution serves the best hot chocolate in town, L’Africain, with queues in front of the famous tea salon a clear indication of its popularity. Angelina 226 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 82 00

OTHER CHOCOLATY DELIGHTS


TRAVEL BITES

If you have ever gotten hungry while at an airport or a train station then you know how rare it is to find a decent meal. Here in the culinary capital, some of the city’s best chefs have kept travellers in mind and have opened some good spots to enjoy a sandwich on the go, for the train or to sit down and enjoy a real meal at the airport as opposed to making do with lounge food.

266 I Love Paris photo - Derek Hudson. Lazare DR; Le Train Bleu © Arnaud Frich; Teppan DR

For connoisseurs of fine dining who will find it difficult leaving the culinary capital one last table is advised. If you are lucky enough to be flying out of Charles de Gaulle airport, and in particular from terminal 2, then you are in for a real treat. Talented French chef Guy Martin’s I Love Paris restaurant serves up elaborate contemporary French cuisine that you can enjoy for lunch or dinner before your flight. Reasonably priced, the menu features classics as well as more contemporary dishes. With a décor inspired by Palais Royal, where Martin’s Michelinstarred restaurant, Le Grand Véfour, is located, complete with arches and beautiful black and white photos of the famous Palais Royal garden, I Love Paris envelops you in what makes people fall in love with Paris. For passengers who are too pressed for time the restaurant boasts a champagne bar for a quick but enjoyable coupe and a take-away counter offers great sandwiches to grab for your trip. I Love Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, Terminal 2E, Hall L, 01 74 25 03 04

Lazare French Toast & Co. If you are catching a train out of Gare de Lyon make sure you stop at French Toast & Co. located in Hall 2 of the station, this sweet spot is devoted to making the best French breakfast specialty, French toast, served with lashings of salted caramel. 19 rue de Chalon (12th) Lazare At Gare Saint Lazare is where you can eat at any time, day or night, at the Eric Fréchon bistro, Lazare. The chic bistro serves traditional dishes such as escargots and a hearty entrecote. And if you are feeling just a little bit peckish and need an afternoon snack you can indulge in a simple chocolate crepe with a cup of tea or a cheese

Le Train Bleu platter with a glass of wine. Parvis de la Gare Saint-Lazare Rue Intérieure (8th), 01 44 90 80 80 L’Etoile du Nord In the heart of Gare du Nord this Thierry Marx establishment boasts a brasserie and a takeaway counter. Dine in and enjoy foie gras and a charcuterie platter or grab a ham and cheese baguette for your train ride. 18 rue de Dunkerque (10th), 01 40 36 54 36 Le Train Bleu If you’re catching a train out of Gare de Lyon make sure you make time for lunch or dinner at the splendid Le Train Bleu. The magnificent Belle

Teppan Epoque restaurant is nestled on the first floor of the train station and features 41 paintings depicting rail network sites and events that took place in 1900. Serving classic French fare, the restaurant offers an opulent experience that was once appreciated by Coco Chanel and Brigitte Bardot. Gare de Lyon, 1st floor Place Louis Armand (12th), 01 43 43 09 06 Teppan Thierry Marx’s teppanyaki restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and serves steak and lobster for your dining pleasure before boarding your flight at terminal 1 of the Charles de Gaulle airport. Charles de Gaulle Airport, Terminal 1

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casual outdoor restaurant is located just outside the Jeu de Paume museum where visitors can sit in the sun and enjoy freshly made Japanese food in the gorgeous Tuileries Garden. Jeu de Paume Terrace, Tuileries Garden, 1 Place de la Concorde (8th)

Noto On the second floor of the Salle Pleyel is where you will find one of the city’s best secrets, Noto. After enjoying a concert at the Salle Pleyel, Noto invites you to start your evening with a signature cocktail before dining on traditional Italian cuisine. 252bis rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 86 95 96 60 Waknine While it isn’t the official restaurant of the museum, Waknine’s location just across the road from Palais Galliera means that it is the ideal spot for French bistro dining after taking in an exhibit at the city’s fashion museum. 9 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01 47 23 48 18 Hana Bento For visitors looking for an understated venue with good food, a great spot is Hana Bento. This

Le Frank The Fondation Louis Vuitton’s restaurant, Le Frank, is a wonderful museum restaurant headed by chef Jean-Louis Nomicos. The menu changes every day and is the perfect stop for lunch before or after discovering the current exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01 58 44 25 70 Café Marly Overlooking the glass pyramid at the Louvre, this is a wonderful spot to enjoy contemporary cuisine and an incomparable view of the famous museum. 93 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 49 26 06 60 Les Grandes Marches Brasserie fare awaits for you before or after a ballet at the Opéra Bastille. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01 43 42 90 32 Hard Rock Café Tuck into a burger or nachos after seeing Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fashion Freak Show at the nearby Folies Bergère. 14 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01 53 24 60 00 Le Relais de Venise Enjoy the original entrecote recipe with endless servings of French fries before enjoying Anna Karenina, which is playing in the neighbouring Palais des Congrès de Paris. 271 blvd Pereire (17th), 01 45 74 27 97

Le Balcon Contemporary dishes are served here, ideally located in La Vilette for you to enjoy dinner before or after a concert at the Philharmonie de Paris. Philharmonie 1, La Vilette, 221 ave Jean-Jaurès (19th), 01 40 32 30 01 40 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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Ober Mamma Great Italian dishes at very affordable prices are served for your pleasure before or after catching a concert in the nearby Bataclan concert hall. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01 58 30 62 78

L’Opéra Restaurant Located on the ground floor of the Opéra Garnier opera house, this table serves modern French cuisine. 1 Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01 42 68 86 80

Les Grands Verres Enjoy French wine and contemporary French cuisine with Mediterranean flair at Les Grands Verres after taking in a modern art exhibition at Palais de Tokyo. 13 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01 85 53 03 61

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Manko, Laura Gonzalez © D.Delmas; Le Balcon © Elodie Dupuis; Ober Mamma DR; Les Grands Verres © Lina Ghotmeh Architecture, photo Takuji Shimmura

BEST PLACES FOR DINNER AND A SHOW

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Manko If you are planning on seeing a concert or an opera at the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, make sure you make time to dine on Peruvian cuisine at Manko, which is conveniently located at the same address. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 82 28 00 15


A TOAST

TO THE CITY OF LIGHT Les Ambassadeurs It has always been a mythical address of the French capital and after its recent renovations the Hôtel de Crillon is still one of Paris’s most loved hotels. Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant is now the hotel’s bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. The menu here boasts over 100 champagne references and signature cocktails include the orange vodka-based Parisian Mule. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01 44 71 15 80

Da Nico A speakeasy hidden behind Italian restaurant Daroco, which was once Jean Paul Gaultier’s boutique. 6 rue Vivienne (2nd), 01 42 21 93 71

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Candelaria Hidden behind a hole-in-the-wall taco place is Candelaria, one of the city’s very first speakeasy bars. 52 rue de Saintonge (3rd), 01 42 74 41 28 Bar à Bulles Overlooking the iconic windmill of the Moulin Rouge, this rooftop bar serves champagne, tapas and a great spot to sit under the Parisian skies. 4bis Cité Véron (18th), 01 53 41 88 86

Les Ambassadeurs DR; Da Nico © Benoit Linero ; Mabel Credits Laurence Marot; No Entry © Jérôme Galland; Ritz Bar ® Carla Coulson

Le Perchoir Perched on the rooftop of the BHV Marais department store, this great bar features a great cocktail menu and one of the best views of the city. 33 rue de la Verrerie (4th), 01 48 06 18 48

La Bibliothèque A fireplace, a cocktail and piano music make up the cosy and luxurious atmosphere at La Bibliothèque, one of the two bar lounges at La Reserve Paris Hotel & Spa. Once reserved for hotel guests staying at the hotel, La Bibliothèque is now open to all guests. Surrounded by a sprawling library, try one of the barman’s cocktails, or a glass of wine from the owner’s very own vineyard. 42 ave Gabriel (8th), 01 58 36 60 60 Mabel This quaint speakeasy bar is hidden behind a grilled cheese shop, and specialises in rum-based cocktails. 58 rue d’Aboukir (2nd), 01 42 33 24 33

Windo On the 34th floor of the Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile hotel is this cocktail and champagne bar where its signature drinks are served with an exquisite view of Paris. 3 Place du Général Loenig (17th), 01 40 68 51 31 The Experimental Cocktail Bar One of Paris’s first cocktail bars. Great cocktails and friendly service are all on the menu. 37 rue Saint-Sauveur (2nd), 01 45 08 88 09 Secret 8 A speakeasy hidden somewhere in the Buddha Bar restaurant where the only way to gain entry is by finding the answer to the riddle posted on www.secret8bybuddhabar.com and @ secret8bybuddhabar. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 53 05 90 39 Le Dokhan’s Le Dokhan’s hotel boasts the city’s first champagne bar. Rare champagnes served alongside the wellknown names in the bubbly world are enough to pull you into this beautiful hotel bar complete with an elevator by Louis Vuitton. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01 53 65 66 99

No Entry This speakeasy bar is hidden in the basement of an old hospital, which is now the address to Pink Mamma, an Italian restaurant popular for its steaks and specialty pizzas. 20bis rue de Douai (9th), 09 83 55 94 52 Café Oz Perched on the rooftop of the Cité de la Mode et du Design, this branch of the popular pub chain offers a great view of the city and its Happy Hour is daily from 4 to 8pm. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01 73 71 29 09 La City This wine bar is on the 35th floor of the Grande Arche de la Défense. Open every Thursday from 6.30pm, this is a great bar to enjoy a fabulous view and French wine. 1 Parvis de la Défence, 92044 Puteaux, 01 40 90 52 32 Rivié The Hoxton hotel’s bar where cocktails are served with some great people watching. 30 rue du Sentier (2nd), 01 85 65 75 01 The Ritz Bar Sip your cocktail from vintage glasses at this very ritzy bar. 15 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 43 16 33 74

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The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

Valentin wears Aigle jumper Vivienne Westwood pants Crockett & Jones shoes Turn to page 48 for our French Gentlemen photo shoot

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Check out XXXX Shooting SXXX on page 48

Photo © Fabien Voizard

For Her | Jewellery | Beauty Buys | French Gentlemen Photo Shoot


#300

SHOPPING

For Her

Award-Winning Time The house of Chanel brought out its Boy-Friend Skeleton Calibre 3 timepiece in 2018 featuring Chanel’s third in-house haute horlogerie movement. The elegant watch received the prestigious Ladies’ Watch prize of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (The Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix) in November during the annual award ceremony. Chanel created the Boy-Friend watch in 2015 and the Calibre 3 with its skeleton movement reveals the watch’s inner workings. The watch, which is outfitted with an alligator bracelet, appears to be suspended in its case and presents a series of vertically aligned circles. The 18-carat beige gold case, whose colour was obtained through a galvanic treatment, sits in a bezel set with 66 brilliant-cut diamonds. The movement is manually wound and the functions are kept to hours, minutes with small seconds displayed by beige-gold coloured hands. The watch has a power reserve of 55 hours and is waterproof to 30 metres. - P.V. Chanel Boutique 18 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 40 98 55 55

Hermès DR; Chanel © Chanel Horlogerie

Hermès is Back in the Golden Triangle After 2 years of renovations Hermès’s George V boutique has reopened. Larger than before, the gorgeous boutique is sprawled over three floors, offering luxury shoppers a wonderful space to discover the house’s latest collections. Hermès’s ready-to-wear collections for ladies and gentlemen, jewellery, watches and the house’s signature fragrances are all presented as well as the fashion brand’s iconic handbags. The boutique also boasts a bespoke salon for gentlemen, bringing made-to-measure to the city’s famous Golden Triangle district. - S.I. Hermès Boutique 42 ave George V (8th), 01 47 20 48 51 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 43


#300

SHOPPING Jewellery

DAZZLING

Earrings By Sandra Iskander

De Grisogono 33 ave George V (8th), 01 47 20 35 35

Harry Winston 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 20 03 09

Boucheron 26 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 42 61 58 16

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Mellerio 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 42 61 57 53

Roberto Coin Available at Arije Boutique, 50 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01 47 20 72 40

© CHANEL Joaillerie; Cindy Chao Black Label Masterpiece XI “Conch Pearl Rose Earrings; Mellerio Boucles d’oreilles Millefiora; De Grisogono High Jewellery earrings;

Cindy Chao Available at www.cindychao.com

Chanel 18 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 40 98 55 55


#300

SHOPPING

Beauty

TLC FOR YOUR

Beauty Needs By Sandra Iskander

2

1

Give your skin the moisture it needs and keep it hydrated with Esthederm’s Eau Cellulaire Melting Moisturising Cream. 23 Place de Catalogne (14th), 08 00 01 50 16

Smell like a cherry dream and be kind to your locks with Aveda’s Cherry Almond softening shampoo and conditioner. Available at Montecino 7 rue du Louvre (1st), 01 40 26 18 07

3

Fight the signs of aging with Elizabeth Arden’s Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum. The velvet texture will help smooth away wrinkles while making you feel like a million bucks. Available at Marionnaud 110 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 42 93 07 63

5 4

Clean your skin and help it feel smooth and clear with vegan friendly Sand & Sky’s Australian Pink Clay Flash Perfection Exfoliating Treatment. Available at Sephora 70-72 ave des Champs Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50

Apply your blush and highlighter perfectly with Laura Mercier’s Glow Powder brush. With its curved shape, the brush hugs your cheeks and applies colour expertly. Available at Printemps de la Beauté 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 52 52

6 7

Keep your teeth clean and help save the planet with the Humble Brush bamboo toothbrush. Available at Monoprix 52 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 77 65 65

Give your face a pearly complexion with Benefit’s The Pore Fessional Pearl Primer. Available at Sephora

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#300

SHOPPING Interview

A Parisian Moment with Inès

T

By Sandra Iskander

he ex-model turned fashion designer, Inès de la Fressange, shares with Where her favourite things about Paris, gives us her best packing tips and tells us what it feels like to open her flagship boutique in the fashion capital. You have defined the Parisian look for many. How does it feel to have such an image? And do you feel any kind of pressure in maintaining such an image? Actually many people think “Parisian style” is very sophisticated and uptight but it’s rather about mixing casual and luxurious things, having less together (less jewellery, less make-up, less colours) and the more I work in fashion and the older I get, the more I want that. Also even if I think it’s important to take care of ourselves and be “tidy” I believe after being ready in the morning one should forget it a bit and not be too self-conscious. So my image, I don’t care about it anymore! Define your style. Let’s say a woman who wears shoes far more expensive then the rest of her clothes, goes to parties with white jeans, wears diamonds in the early morning, has a man’s watch and 20 navy blue sweaters, has a basket instead of a handbag (but has 20 handbags at home), puts tuxedos with heels but long red carpet dresses with sandals. You have worked with many fashion houses, both high-end and high street, and collaborated with a few including Uniqlo. How do you decide on which brand you will work with? Such a good question! Finally what is important is the people with whom you are going to work with. At Chanel it was Lagerfeld, at Roger Vivier it was Diego della Valle, at Uniqlo it was Naoki Takizawa (former designer for Issey Miyake) and for my brand, me! To be serious I think it’s true for all kinds of jobs, everything is possible, it depends with whom. How does it feel to finally have your own boutique in Paris? Listen I’m thrilled. It’s exactly what I wished, a kind of toyshop where you can find all kinds of things, from velvet pants to a notebook, a bottle of olive oil, a perfumed candle or a lamp. We have luggage, a bicycle, feather dusters, sunglasses, silk blouses, portable barbecues, copper nails, trench coats, cashmere sweaters. A kind of hardware store where you can find presents, souvenirs and Parisian-style clothes with all kinds of prices. 46 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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Define the Inès de la Fressange brand. A solution for women. For those who don’t want to look like a teenager or like a granny even if they are grannies! Do you only wear your own designs? No! I always mix things. I still go shopping everywhere and it would be very sad to be dressed up all the time with my items. When you love fashion you appreciate the work of others. Is there ever a day when you just do not want to design, you’re simply not in the mood? Indeed! I wake up lazy and want to stay in bed all day, but as soon I see fabrics and when people ask me questions I have an idea and I love my work. How are you constantly inspired? I often draw things I would like to wear and I can’t find. Which designers do you admire and influence you? I worked for many years with Karl Lagerfeld so he taught me a lot but I [also] admired the work of Azzedine Alaïa and I often buy clothes at Isabel Marant. But it’s better to be influenced by women rather than other designers. You have so many projects happening at the same time. How do you manage your time between your personal and professional life? I don’t manage so well but I realised nobody is perfect and that I should accept it. So I try to be easy-going, not to work on weekends, stop emails after 7pm, meditate, think about my priorities and sleep. You are at a time in your professional life where things are obviously changing, embarking on new adventures. How do you feel about that? Most people ask themselves about the future, and they tend to be anguished about it, I try to appreciate the present and stay confident. Having a small company with great potential is risky but far more fun than to manage a huge company. Do you ever fear running out of new ideas? No, it’s rather hard for me to edit. Each time I go to my shop I have ideas to add things, even if there is a great choice, I always think it’s not enough. You epitomise Paris for a lot of people. Can you describe your Paris? Paris is not a city, it’s many cities. One can say something and the opposite, like a woman. We can be very casual one day and very sophisticated the other, very strong and very weak, very intellectual and very frivolous together. But every woman is unique just like Paris. If you were not in Paris what other city do you think you can easily base yourself in? I could live in Jaipur, India. Actually it takes a lifetime to understand that this is not important, people you love are. But Paris is still the capital of fashion so thank God the people I love are in Paris. Where do you love to shop in Paris? I love Soeur and you can’t find it anywhere else than Paris, I go crazy at Marie-Hélène de Taillac and I often go to Simone (Rue Saint-Simon) and Uniqlo of course. At the Bon Marché we can find many things and it’s very convenient because it’s near my shop. What should every woman have in her wardrobe? A navy blue sweater. It fits everyone and gives a nice complexion. There is a shop I love in Paris called From Future (rue de Rennes), they sell cheap cashmeres but with great quality in all the colours you can imagine. For men also. What can you never leave home without? Perfume sweetheart! Didn’t I tell you I was French?! What’s your must-have accessory? Shoes. Nice shoes can save any look. Have a white shirt, white pants and nice shoes you can go everywhere. I am lucky to work for Roger Vivier so I know it!

For first time visitors to Paris, what would you recommend they do to discover your city? A walk in the Marais, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the Palais-Royal gardens and it will be impossible to be disappointed. What are your favourite restaurants in Paris? Le Bon Saint-Pourçain (Rue Servandoni); La Corte (Rue Saint-Honoré); Chez Georges (Rue du Mail); Paul (Place Dauphine) and La Société (Place SaintGermain-des-Prés) For our readers who are constantly travelling, what advice would you give them about packing? What fashion items must they always have in their bags? -A silk blouse, in case they have to be a little dressy. -Black patent shoes that they can wear during the day or in the evening. -A shawl, it’s always a little cold in planes. -A pair of sneakers to walk. -A scented candle because if you are in paradise and it smells terrible, it won’t work. But never fill up your case, you have to keep room for your shopping and it will be easier to re-do your luggage. Inès de la Fressange Boutique 24 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01 45 48 19 06


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French Gentlemen Photographer: Fabian Voizard Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Marion Tupler Make-Up Artist & Hair Stylist: Jimmy Jurcenoks Models: Edouard Kupic and Valentin Leonard Special thanks to Brach Hotel

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Edouard wears Maison Standards shirt and sneakers Atelier Notify jeans Eden Park jacket Longines watch Valentin wears Olow jumper Atelier Notify pants Waiting for the Sun sunglasses Tod’s shoes

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Eden Park shorts Atelier Notify sweatshort

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Bodco bathrobe Vivienne Westwood pants Cerruti 1881 shoes w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 51


Stella McCartney swim shorts

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Bodco top Vivienne Westwood pants and jacket Briston watch w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 53


De Fursac jumper Cerruti 1881 pants Fauré Le Page document pouch Rolex watch 54 W HER E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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De Fursac pants and turtleneck Heschung shoes Tumi suitcase w w w.pa w.p a r i s m a p. fr 55


Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Victorinox - 2 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.44.52.64 M° Rue du Bac

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS

Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th),

Italie Deux - 30 ave d’Italie (13th), 01.45.80.72.00. M° Corvisart One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin

EYE WEAR GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th),

01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - 5 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.96.35.13. M° Opéra

Meyrowitz - 5 rue de Castiglione (1st),

01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th),

BOOKS & MUSIC

Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon La Grande Récré - 126 rue La Boétie (8th), 01.42.25.42.42. M° Georges V Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8 ), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Burburry - 56 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), M° Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde th

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne,

01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min) Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone 56 W H E R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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01.42.60.63.64. M° Tuileries

FABRICS: COUTURE Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra Haviland - 6 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.06.91.08. M° Concorde Sabre - 4 rue des Quatre Vents (6th), 01.44.07.37.64. M° Odéon Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) , 01.47.03.39.99. M° Concorde Jaquet Droz - 8 rue de la Paix (2nd) , 01.55.04.75.20. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde

Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Redline Showroom - 161 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.44.64.92.24. M° Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00. M° Concorde Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

LINGERIE Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine

Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) ,

01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

LUGGAGE AND BAGS Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine

Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine

Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon

Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde

Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire

Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V

Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard & Other Stories - 76 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.70.80.78.50. M° Chemin Vert

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine

Heschung – 11 rue de Sévigné (4th),

01.42.71.33.68. M° Saint-Paul J.M. Weston – 55 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47 . M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde



Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

• Césaire Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi•

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Christian Louboutin

Galerie Vivienne

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by Terry Xavier Lust

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Galerie Véro-Dodat

Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

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Francesco Russo

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Musée du Louvre

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

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Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

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RUE DES PYRAMIDES

Galerie de Valois

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ

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Galerie de Montpensier

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

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RUE DE RIVOLI

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Printemps du Louvre

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•Cotélac

• RedLine

Opéra Garnier

•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil

FreyWille

LEI

•Christian Dior •Clergerie

•Aésop

SHOP STOP

RUE DE LA PA IX

Place du Marché Saint-Honoré

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous

Vivienne • Westwood

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Vendôme

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : +33 (0)1 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

Place

ONORÉ

Carrousel du Louvre

ONORÉ

The Kooples •

RUE S A IN T -H

Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey •

RUE S A IN T -H

Ami • Missoni• • Kiehl’s• • Barbara Rihl

Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

Chopard

•Pomellato •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman •Balenciaga • Exemplaire •Akillis

Church’s• Paule Ka• Paul Smith• Christofle •

Manoush

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • Kilian • • Kiton • Barrie Nous Tommy • Coach • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Brioni •Emporio Armani •Marc Jacobs •David Morris

Goyard •

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Marella

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Max&Moi • • Roberto Cavalli Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

Swarovski

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RUE TRONC HET

Église de la Madeleine

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The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

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WEMPE

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE • Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara

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Jeu de Paume

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

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Jardin des Tuileries

RUE ROYALE Daum- • Lyubov • Haviland Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

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Musée de l’Orangerie

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Miu Miu

Burberry

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

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Aïzea


If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.


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Saint-Germain

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Karl Lagerfeld

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Poiray Jo • LiuFaçonnable • RUE VA R U CI Stella • DE L Louis RUE DE B D • ’A B SAI • Luna Etro • Vuitton B AY N Camper T E • -GE • Sonia • • Brunello RM • AIN Rykiel Moncler Cucinelli Paul Smith Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Voyeurs • • Ines de la Fressange Lauren Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Armani Maison• BOU • • Lejaby LEV • De Fursac L.K. ARD • Y’s SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON Crockett & Jones • Hackett• Montblanc • Kenzo• • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Eskandar Saint Laurent• Gas Bijoux ODEON L’Ibis Rouge • • OUR • DU F Liu Jo • RUE Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi Dot-Drops • • Djula • U FOUR Alain Mikli • Sabre La Perla• D Durance RUE •TS M.A.C.• •Repetto • E VEN R T A U ES Q Omega Heschung RUE D • S E Berluti • VR Le Mont • • Saint • RUE DE SÉ • • Saint Michel RUE DE BABYLONE Agnès b Lancaster Laurent Longines Camper • LP • • RUE SAINT-SU ICE Frey Wille • SÉVRES-BABYLONE • •Maje • Tumi •Capel Clergerie Hermès • Eres • ULPICE SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S Le Bon • Lise Loxwood & Voltaire ES Charmel • Marché S É V R Il Bisonte DE • •

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Christian Louboutin • Agent Provocateur

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Tikibou Toy Store B V DE DG A

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MONTPARNASSE-BIENVENÜE

4 rue des Quatre Vents - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 44 07 37 64 / www.sabre.fr

RUE DE TOURNON

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REN

DE RUE BVD

Sabre offers multiple choices of flatware and dinnerware in multiple choices of colors. Let your creativity play with a nice Mix and Match. Sabre is a fantastic place to find original inspiration for a gift, as our collection suits different styles. Maison&Objet Hall 2 booth F23 from January 18th to 22sd.

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• John Lobb Bang SA I N • & Olufsen Edward Green • T-G Roche Bobois• ER MA Cinna • IN Aubercy •

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8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

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• Cassina JLC Opticien

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DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

Institut de France

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24 rue de Grenelle, Paris 7 Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 19 06 www.inesdelafressange.fr

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The boutique is nested inside an old foundry on the Left Bank, offering women the quintessence of chic Parisian style, thanks to a wide range of high quality products from clothing to shoes, accessories leather goods ans lifestyle items.

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Parfums

Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug


CHAPTER 2

COLLECTION CREATE YOU OWN DESIGN With the customization kit included inside with the suitcase, stand out from the crowd!

ANTI-THEFT ZIPPER Puncture resistant technology prevents thieves from pilfering and forcing entry into your suitcase.

NEVER RUN OUT OF BATTERY Thanks to its integrated USB port on the TSA Lock, wherever you are, connect your smartphone and tablet to your powerbank stored inside the suitcase.

www.dotdrops.paris


Faubourg Saint-Honoré

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

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3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8 (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com th

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In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

Église de la Madeleine

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JANSSENS & JANSSENS

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• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

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Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

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62 W H E R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla Vuarnet

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14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com

SHOP STOP

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LAULHÈRE This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.

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• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel •Bally •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan U ’A N J O Valentino • • Ermenegildo Zegna RUE D • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Djula • Jitrois & Janssens Les René Caovilla • • Saint Laurent Crockett Dandys • • Chanel • Boucheron & Jones • Tod’s • • Givenchy SQUIER • RUE PA Cartier • Alessi Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •

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Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

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26 blvd Malesherbes - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 66 34 21 www.capelstore.fr

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CAPEL With a 60-year experience, Capel is the French brand specialised in luxury ready-to-wear for big and tall men. The collections are the perfect blend of French style, perfect fitting, comfort and quality for both business and casual occasions. They also carry selected brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Cutter&Buck, Paul&Shark and Pal Zileri. Open MonSat 10:30am-7pm.

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•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat • Baccarat • AV

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#300

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Bucherer

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch


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Gare Saint-Lazare

SHOP STOP

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

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A. Lange & Söhne Marvella • • • Repetto Poiray Dunhill R Corthay Y Christofle • • • Baume&Mercier Cartier • OLNE Piaget • Diesel V • Hugo Boss E • Bodum • IX • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Dinh Van • Alexander McQueen • LA • Fred Zenith • • UE DE • Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier R • Jaquet Droz Dubail Marc Jacobs • Daum Bvlgari •Anshindo • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House •• Tasaki• • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Tumi • SA • Blancpain NO VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • Piaget O Chaumet M • BO • • US •Hublot Breguet T RU •Patek Philippe • Zadig & ED Place du Marché Freywille • • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia Akillis MP • S Courteille Pomellato • RU Marni• Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba Balenciaga • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T HA Akillis • BO PYRAMIDES • Heschung RU R ET • • Jovoy • HÉ Missoni Christian Dior R C AP

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41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

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At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will fit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. Come and try the Le Mans Classic drivers gloves, golf, horseriding... Scout out your next pair of winter gloves, choose gifts for Christmas and enjoy a real glove experience when sampling different types of lining and materials.

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12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

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BUCHERER PARIS In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

Sephora

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Mario Dessuti•

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

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40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com

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Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

Galeries du Diamant •

MOG

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

Passage du Havre

Redline •

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Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

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• •M.A.C. •Levi’s • Elysées •Tissot Horlogerie • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany La Grande RUE • Récré LA RUE DE PONTHIEU

Lacoste • Omega • Eric Bompard• • AVE Bvlgari Dubail Ellie • • Zegna • Saab U Leonard Longchamp• Stefano Ricci • EA C • • R Christofle Altan Bottier Creed MA E RU U Suites • • EN AV • E PIE•RRLes EC Cartier •Givenchy H Rolex • A V R Arije • RON • • Chaumet Dubail • RGE Audemars GEO Piguet Hublot• Cercle NUE Beretta Nike/PSG• E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Delacre • • Arabian Oud• • Burma RUE Tumi• Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • Zilli HAR • RUE RON • Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • Balenciaga A TR J.M. Weston • R • Vionnet É U M By Marie&Gas Bijoux EM • • Smalto OILL A E Wolford Diane Von • RBEU Furstenberg •Balmain Berluti F • ALMA MARCEAU • • •Courrèges Majestic 38 Maje • • Valentino Caron Karl Lagerfeld AVE • Thomas • Harry • N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello • • RUE DE MARIG E Repetto • Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli PSG • Miu Miu• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MONT•A Givenchy Fendi • Chanel• IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh Dior• • Céline Loewe• Van •Marni Dior•• Ralph Lauren ••• Chloé • Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine E

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10 rue de Grenelle - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 11 28 26 rue Danielle Casanova - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 97 58 80 8 ave George V - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 23 88 00 www.gasbijoux.com

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Place des États-Unis

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Born in Saint-Tropez, Gas Bijoux has been creating solar jewelry for over 45 years, handmade by 80 craftsmen in its Marseille atelier. Today, Gas Bijoux is present in over 25 countries across the globe.

AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

RUE G

18 rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 58 12 06 72 / www.jlcopticien.com

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Fabio Caviglia•

In the heart of “Le triangle d’or” which is THE area in Paris for luxury shopping, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Cartier, Dita, Thom Browne, Mikyta, Eyevan, Chanel, JLC Paris, Gucci and more...

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AVENUE KLÉBER

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Arc de Triomphe

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Grand Palais

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38 rue François 1er - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 79 79 www.majestic38.com 64 W H E R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

ALBERT

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Nestled in the new jewel of 735m² and 3 levels, the shop offers the most prestigious brands. Entirely dedicated to luxury, ready-to-wear for men & children, underwear, leather goods & shoes... The Majestic 38 boutique also offers highend jewelery and timepieces.

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PORT DE LA CO

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Elie Saab • ROOSEV D. IN NKL

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#300

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• Vanessa Bruno Musée National •Mr • Bonastre •Fred Picasso Marzo • Les Petites • Le Mont • Saint Michel Magnanni • La Fée Maraboutée RU E DE S 4 • FI LS RUE DE THORIGNY

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Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol ■ Hartford Les Mille Feuilles • Marionnaud Paris • RUE • Emile Lafaurie DES FRANCS Penhaligon’s BOURGEOI • Chanel S • • Carhartt • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Fragonard • ■ • • RU•E DES FRANCS BOUR•GE•OITed Baker Mademoiselle Repetto • Muji • S ••• • Iro Jeanne Michael • • • Essentiel Kors Uniqlo Aubade •• • Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston Eres Ekyog• •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX • IZIPIZI Bimba y Lola Maison • • • Devernois • Lauren Vidal Francis Kurkdjian Maje Créa Concept • • Paule Ka Wolford • R U E D• Cos ES R O SI Lipault ER • • • • •Heschung• S Moustaches • All Saints • Thomas RUE DU PLATRE • Cire Gavilane RUE DE JARENTE Sabo El Ganso Huygens Sandro• •• Trudon • • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE K.Jacques •Carven •Ugg • Thierry • Gucci• •John Galliano • Lacoste • Mode en Alain Villenave Nike Fleux RUE D'ORMESSON Karl Demeure Givenchy • Mikli •Maje BHV Marais • Moncler Crockett Lagerfeld• • RUE DU ROI •DE SICILE • Le l’Homme & Jones • • Chevignon TO IN E AN T• • Fendi • IN • RU E SA RUE DE LA VERRERI E Caron Paraboot MX • SAINT-PAUL • UE DE RIVOLI Bapestore R • Finsbury I L • IVO Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier RUE DE R • • LI O IV R E D RUE ON IR M • Tourist Office IS O AGNE FRANÇ HOTEL DE VILLE ARLEM RUE CH Pierre Boisset • E U R Village Saint Paul ■ • Psyché ■ Mémorial de la Shoah Papier+ • Melodies Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier • • Graphiques • Calligrane RUE

Adresse : 46 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 4 Tel: +33 (0)1 43 56 04 99 M° Saint-Paul (line1) or Hôtel de Ville (lines 1&11) www.izipizi.com th

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IZIPIZI IZIPIZI is a brand of ready-to-wear trendy glasses. They offer everyone a classical and funny accessory, a basic must-have for reading, sun protection and screen protection. Soft and colorful glasses for adults, children and babies.

BV

Eclectic

Weekday

TUR

Customellow •

E E D

SHOP STOP

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52 rue de Rivoli - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr

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EN UR E T E D

SHOP STOP

More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !

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The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti

Gunjan Gupta. Chaise Muda Walla. Throne, 2016 © MAD, Paris /0Jean Tholance

Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours

Discover the new design space at MAD (opposite page) 66 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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Exhibitions

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Sandro Botticelli, La Vierge et l’Enfant. vers 1467-1470. Musée du Louvre, département des Peintures © L’oeil et la mémoire / Fabrice Lepeltier; Muller van severen. Installation S, 2012. Cuir, laiton, polyéthylène © MAD, Paris / Jean Tholance

A Captivating Collection Two of the world’s leading museums, the Louvre and the State Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg, are conjointly presenting an exceptional exhibition devoted to the art collection of the Marquis Campana, regarded as one of the leading private collections of the 19th century. The collection, which was dispersed in 1861, was put together essentially between 1830 and 1850 and is made up of a diverse collection of over 12,000 works, archaeological pieces, paintings, sculptures and objects, ranging from Antiquity to the 19th century. The exhibition entitled A Dream of Italy, the Collection of Marquis Campana, brings together 500 works including a bust of the Greek mythological figure Ariadne dating from the 3rd century B.C., numerous masterpieces, among them the Battle of San Romano by the Florentine painter Paolo Uccello, and Boticelli’s Madonna and Child. - P.V. Showing through to February 18th 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 40 20 53 17

Divine Design A world of creativity is unfolding at MAD, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the museum dedicated to the decorative arts, whose new design space offers a unique panorama of modern and contemporary design from the 1940s to the present. Entitled La Folle Histoire du Design (The Crazy History of Design), the new itinerary offers a global and transversal presentation of the museum’s design collections, one of the world’s leading collections of design. Visitors can wend their way through 1000 objects, a host of which were conceived by major figures in the world of design including Jean Prouvé, Charlotte Perriand, Philippe Starck and Jasper Morrison. Design and decorative arts resonate with the graphic arts and fashion but also with wallpapers, toys, glassware and photography. International design, notably Italian and Japanese, is showcased as well within the new space, which places the accent on the object. The museum’s signature period rooms have been given a new look and brought up to date allowing the visitor to discover, for example, an entire room conceived by Jean Prouvé for a university campus. - P.V. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 55 57 50 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 67


Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

www.olwenforest.com

Imperial Splendours The treasures from the city of Kyoto are on display at the Musée Cernuschi, the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia, revealing for the first time outside of Japan inestimable master works. More than 60 works spanning three centuries are being presented in a chronological fashion showcasing the different generations of the artists of the Rinpa movement. Entitled Treasures of Kyoto, Three Centuries of Rinpa Creations, the show presents one of the major schools of decorative Japanese painting, Rinpa, which began in the 17th century and continues to this day. The former capital and cradle of traditional Japanese culture, Kyoto has always been a fertile ground for artistic production and gave rise to the refined style of the Rinpa movement. The style is marked by the pureness of its forms, its vivid colours and compositions inspired by literature, nature and classical theatre, which are immediately recognisable. The works are fragile and will be rotated no less than four times during the course of the exhibition. - P.V. Showing through to January 27th 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01 53 96 21 50 68 W HE R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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Kamisaka Sekka, Le bocal au poisson rouge, 1905-15, rouleau vertical, encre et couleurs sur soie, musée Hosomi, Kyoto

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38


WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

©Maya Baghirova

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xhibiting for the first time at the Art Shopping exhibition space at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris last October, the Azerbaijani artist Ziba Aliyeva presents us with her paintings, unveiled before a well-informed viewing public.

What is the significance of your coming to Paris? Ziba Aliyeva: It was a dream to come and exhibit in this city that has seen so many talented artists. Through my painting, I hope to introduce the public to Azeri art. How do you define the art of Azerbaijan? Ziba Aliyeva: It’s a mixture of influences from the Caucasus and Persia with depictions of landscapes and a lush countryside of fields as far as the eye can see, or majestic trees. Like our national flag, I use a lot of green, as a tribute to nature, red, especially pomegranate, a symbolic fruit, and the blue of our wonderfully clear sky. When did you first start painting? Ziba Aliyeva: When I was a very young child it was my way of truly expressing myself because I was very shy, and I was lucky enough to have lessons with a private teacher. Eventually, in 2005, I took a Computer Design course in Baku which simultaneously offered classes in art and ideas about the art of colour. But it was not until 2017 that I embarked on a career as a painter, as I had

a hymn to the triumphant nature By Kyra Brenzinger previously got married and had been bringing up my two children.

personally, I love greenery and farmland, as in my picture of chickens and cockerels, or the picture of fish at a market beside the Caspian sea, or the one

Which artists inspire you? Ziba Aliyeva: Picasso was a real revelation for

of cactus on my window sill.

me when I saw his paintings at an exhibition in Madrid. His sense of colour is exceptional. But I also love Azerbaijani painters such as my private teacher Raida Mustafaev, as well as Melik, Sakit, and so on.

What is the message you would like to convey?

You depict mainly the landscapes of Azerbaijan, in an impressionistic manner... Ziba Aliyeva: Yes, that’s right, I love sharing my vision and my impressions, such as the colourful roofs of Baku’s old historic centre, or the “Italian district” where the women put the washing out to dry on lines, as they do in Italy. And you have even used oil – petroleum – for a painting. Ziba Aliyeva: It’s a depiction of the countryside confronted by industry, with a vision of Azerbaijan’s international image as an oil producer. We see industrial facilities drawn with oil and the countryside with the Caspian sea, done in blue oil. You mainly like painting animals and peaceful countryside Ziba Aliyeva: Humans need the countryside and,

Ziba Aliyeva: I love revealing the beauty of ephemeral things, so as to get the idea across to people that everything could disappear one day: whether that be the countryside or historic cities like Baku... Will you be exhibiting in Europe in the near future? Ziba Aliyeva: My husband encourages me tremendously and organises exhibitions for me throughout Europe, like the one here in Paris and another shortly in Berlin. I would like to collaborate with European galleries and in Moscow. My career as a painter is opening up for me, and discovering cities in different countries is tremendously enriching for an artist! Salon Art Innsbruck: 17-20 January, 2019 Berlin-Baku Gallery in Berlin: 16-17 February, 2019

Contact: www.zibaaliyeva.com me@zibaaliyeva.com

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#300

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

Ancient Cities The Insitut du Monde Arabe is presenting a fascinating journey through space and time into difficult or impossible places to visit. This exhibition, entitled Age-Old Cities, offers a virtual voyage into what were once great cities and centres and which are today damaged, plundered or destroyed. Palmyra and Aleppo in Syria, Mosul in Iraq and Leptis Magna in Libya are revealed as they once were and re-born in a spectacular immersive staging plunging the visitor into the heart of brilliant civilizations. The digital images were done by Iconem who worked in the field taking thousands of photographs and whose mission is to contribute to the conservation of world heritage by digitising it. The Insitut du Monde Arabe partnered with Ubisoft, one of the world’s leading video game developers, who developed a headset enabling the visitor, through the technology of virtual reality, to be transported into six of the sites in the exhibition. - P.V. Showing through to February 10th Institut du Monde Arabe 1 rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard (5th), 01 40 51 38 38

The Château and the ZooSafari of Thoiry in the Yvelines is welcoming a brilliant Chinese Lantern Festival encompassing a superb, luminous display of exotic animals, a 70-meter long dragon, flowers, temples and even a representation of the castle itself unfolding in 35 spots in the castle’s formal French and English gardens. One of the most impressive displays is the lantern sculpture of Beijing’s Blue Temple, which measuring in at a height of 22 meters is even taller than the Château of Thoiry itself. Entitled Thoiry Wild Lights, more than 600 unique, giant luminous sculptures light up the grounds while offering a fairy-tale like discovery of China, its traditions and an extraordinary world of animals. The spectacular lanterns are all handmade by craftsmen from the city of Zigong who fashioned these metallic structures covered with hand-painted fabrics by hand right on the castle’s grounds. - P.V. Showing through to March 10th ZooSafari Rue du Pavillon de Montreuil, 78770 Thoiry, 01 34 87 40 67

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Vue aérienne du théâtre de Leptis Magna, Libye / février 2018. FDD ICONEM / MAFL / DOA

A Fabulous Festival Lights


Monuments

#300

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Arc de Triomphe

Photos iStock 2018 : Arc de Triomphe © pawel.gaul; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy; Notre-Dame Cathedral © Deejpilot; Opéra Palais Garnier © www.jaspe.info; Sainte-Chapelle © dennisvdw

ARC DE TRIOMPHE The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Closed January 1st www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10-25€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

Arc de Triomphe

Eiffel Tower

LA CONCIERGERIE

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL

A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. Closed January 1st www.paris-conciergerie.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling

La Conciergerie

Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr

Notre-Dame Cathedral

6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 . M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€). For more information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. JanMar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. Closed January 1st www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

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Address Book

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr

Galerie Richard Orlinski

AREAS & MARKETS Paris Flea Market

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Carré Rive Gauche

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées

This light-filled gallery replete with a garden is entirely devoted to the colourful sculptures and works of the leading contemporary French artist Richard Orlinski. It is an inviting place to discover not only his Born Wild series of animal sculptures, but his other works as well. 68 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.47.42.28.83. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Académie Équestre de Versailles

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Atelier des Lumières

Disneyland Paris

Galerie Olwen Forest

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Galerie Richard Orlinski | ART GALLERIES 72 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. M° Porte Dorée

Ballon de Paris

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

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Catacombes de Paris

ATTRACTIONS

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise

Galerie Tamenaga

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). M° Denfert-Rochereau

Opera Gallery

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Canal Saint-Martin

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), M° Quai de la Gare

FlyView

Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd). M° Opéra

France Miniature

This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature. The six major regions of France are covered with

Flight Experience Paris | ATTRACTIONS


Address Book

some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

Grande Arche

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

Rex Studios

DAY TRIPS

Travel into the heart of cinema in this iconic theatre for a unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. The venue offers fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family where one and all can take on the roles of alternatively actor, spectator or even director. 5 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.40. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Thoiry Zoo Safari

Château de Fontainebleau

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Château de Versailles

This exceptional venue presents myriad, emblematic animals from all over the world in its original zoo and safari park in a beautiful setting complete with botanical gardens. Visitors can also visit the castle, which has been inhabited by the de La Panouse family for 13 generations (castle visit is closed in the winter months). Rue du Pavillon de Montreuil, 78770 Thoiry, 01.34.87.40.67

BOAT CRUISES Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

Le Manoir de Paris

Bateaux Parisiens

Bateaux-Mouches

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most

beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

GARDENS Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

GUIDED TOURS L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to

PARIS

IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY www.parismap.fr Le Manoir de Paris | ATTRACTIONS

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS


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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book

the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07

MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Dali Paris

In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, archives, cameras and costumes. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy

La Maison de Victor Hugo

This museum located in a splendid private mansion on the Place des Vosges is devoted to the French writer, statesman and artist Victor Hugo who once lived there. The museum’s collections include drawings by Victor Hugo, manuscripts, statues and paintings as well as photographs and furnishings. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 6 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.72.10.16. M° Saint-Paul

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

MAD

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Mona Bismarck American Center

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), M° Iéna

Institut Giacometti

Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti

This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. M° Raspail

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Musée d’Orsay | MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS 74 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions

through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. TueSun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée Cernuschi

The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/ Boissière

Institut Giacometti | MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS


Address Book

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is

celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Musée Marmottan Monet

Musée du Vin

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

Musée Yves Saint Laurent

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel.

La Cinémathèque Française | MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS

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Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte

This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique

This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Musée Picasso | MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 75


The Guide

DINING

Dine at Froufrou (opposite page)

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Froufrou Photos © Benedetta Chiala

French Fare | New Openings | Seafood | Fast Food the French Way


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DINING

Restaurants

French Fare at Froufrou Don’t be alarmed by the intermission bell calling for the theatre goers while enjoying your dinner at the recently opened Froufrou restaurant on the ground floor of the Théâtre Edouard VII, but rather take in the joyous ambiance that celebrates French fare and dining out before a theatre show. In a beautiful art deco setting, designed by French fashion designer Alexis Mabille, chef Juan Arbelaez serves diners a delicious menu of traditional French fare that includes a hearty onglet de boeuf with caramelised shallots, and a large sole Meunière, to share, served with capers and Kalamata olives. The chef has also thoughtfully added a veggie dish to the menu, seasonal vegetables served in a coconut broth with a side serving of quinoa. Make sure you leave room for the restaurant’s signature dessert, the extra generous serving of the millefeuille, made to share. – S.I. Froufrou 10 Place Edouard VII (9th), 01 47 42 92 55

Le Train Bleu © Arnaud Frich

A New Chapter for an Icon Unveiled in 1901 by French president Edouard Loubet, one of the world’s most beautiful restaurants was renamed Le Train Bleu in 1963 in honour of the famous night train that travelled between Paris and Ventimiglia in Italy. The pleasure of savouring the Belle Epoque splendour of this restaurant’s magnificent décor, including wriggling gilded cherubs overhead and dreamy paintings of the palmy destinations served by trains from the station, would alone warrant a meal here. Now, however, a new collaboration between Le Train Bleu and the Maison Rostang, the company of the celebrated Michelin two-star chef Michel Rostang, means that this storied restaurant has become as worthy a destination for its food as it is for its setting. The new menu now highlights a variety of regional and traditional French dishes, including a superb pâté en croûte of wild game and foie gras, quenelles de brochet (fluffy pike perch dumplings, a speciality of Lyon) in Newburg sauce, Sole Bonne Femme, and Poulet de Bresse, possibly the world’s best chicken, in a tarragon cream sauce with grilled Basmati rice. Don’t miss the profiteroles with vanilla icecream and hot chocolate sauce served tableside, and note that this table is open daily for lunch and dinner. – Alexander Lobrano. Le Train Bleu First floor of Gare de Lyon Place Louis Armand (12th), 01 43 43 09 06 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 77


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Dining with Parisian Neighbours Aside from visiting the great monuments and famous museums of Paris, one of the best ways to have an authentic experience of the city’s daily life is to go for a meal in one of its excellent neighbourhood restaurants, or warm friendly little spots with really good food for fair prices, a lot of hospitality, and a warm relaxed atmosphere. A perfect example of this genus of great Paris neighbourhood restaurants is the recently opened Le Bistrot de Madeleine, which is named for the late mother of the amiable owner, a charming man who’d dreamed of owning a restaurant for years while pursuing a corporate career. Stopping by with a friend for dinner on a rainy night, we immediately felt welcome at this cosy restaurant, and our meal got off to an excellent start with first courses of gravlax style salmon and cauliflower tabbouleh, an original and refreshing dish, and homemade pork-and-veal terrine. Mains were excellent, too, including steak with crispy potatoes and duck breast with creamed corn and kale. The lemon tart was a perfect conclusion to this meal, and the wine list is very good and fairly priced. A great choice for lunch after visiting the Sacré Coeur. – A.L. Bistrot de Madeleine 4 ave Trudaine (9th), 01 42 85 19 35

What a difference a new address (and menu) makes! Gaya, three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire’s long-running seafood restaurant on Rue du Bac has moved to new quarters nearby on Rue de Saint-Simon, and the rebooted restaurant is just brilliant. Chef Nicolas Fontaine, who’s been at Gaya for some years, has drawn up a terrific new menu that caters to carnivores as well as piscaphiles. Start with the sublime gambero rosso (red shrimp) carpaccio atop a bed of crabmeat with shiso in Manzanilla and olive oil or the inventive salad of mushrooms, Treviso, aubergine and Cheddar, and then try the skate Meunière with red beetroot vinaigrette or the Galician steak with Béarnaise sauce. The fish soup, more of a stew really, is superb as well. Desserts are terrific, too, don’t miss the Dacquoise with chestnut cream and orange panna cotta, and there’s an excellent selection of wines by the glass. The restaurant’s bar menu is ideal for a light meal or if you’re on your own, try the red tuna poke bowl or the Isigny-Ardour salmon. – A.L. Restaurant Gaya 6 rue de Saint-Simon (7th), 01 45 44 73 73 78 W HE R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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Gaya Photo © Jacques Gavard

A Move for Gaya


Restaurants

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DINING

A Taste of Alsace Just across the street from the Gare de l’Est, La Strasbourgeoise, a friendly, quiet, well-run traditional brasserie is a wonderful address for a deeply satisfying winter meal. There’s an oyster stand out front, which suggests a delicious way to start a meal on the half shell in this cosy dining room. Otherwise, tuck into a salad perhaps, but be advised that the choucroute garni, this brasserie’s most famous dish, is a hearty and generously served feast comprised of delicately pickled sauerkraut topped with a variety of cuts of pork and sausages, which vary according to the one you choose, plus boiled potatoes and a little pot of strong mustard to use to taste. This glorious Alsatian farmer’s feed has a fascinating pedigree, too, since the process of preserving fermented cabbage in brine arrived in Europe around 450 A.D. with Attila and the Huns, and it’s unexpectedly healthy, too, since sauerkraut is rich in minerals and digestive enzymes. There’s a lighter version of the dish, which is garnished with fish instead of pork, a good choice for a lighter meal. Enjoy an Alsace-brewed Kronenbourg beer on tap with this meal, or choose one of the excellent Rieslings, pinots gris and gewürztraminer from the Lorentz vineyard in Bergheim. Preferring a savoury finish to this feast, order some Munster, the most Alsatian of cheese, which is correctly served here with a sprinkling of cumin seeds, or tuck into a slice of the very good tarte Tatin if you have a sweet tooth. – A.L. La Strasbourgeoise 5 rue du 8 Mai 1945 (10th), 01 42 05 20 02

La Strasbourgeoise Photo © Maxime Ledieu

Originally Virtus For a charming taste of the extraordinary level of young gastronomic talent in Paris today, head for Virtus, a charming restaurant in a quiet side street not far from the Opera Bastille in eastern Paris. Chiho Kanzaki and Marcelo di Giacomo, who trained at Maura Colagreco’s Le Mirazur in Menton, hold forth in this attractive, quiet, well-run dining room with well-spaced tables, yes, this is a place you can talk, and offer up a regularly changing menu of dazzling dishes like scallops ceviche with cauliflower and Granny Smith apple garnishes, bonito with Chinese cabbage and Pimenton, duck breast with baked pumpkin and poached pear with rosemary cream and yoghurt ice-cream. The kitchen’s signature is light, fresh, healthy and intelligently original cooking. A great night out. – A.L. Virtus 29 rue Cotte (12th), 09 80 66 08 08 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 79


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Restaurants Advertorial DJAKARTA BALI

AU COIN DES GOURMETS

Indonesian cuisine

Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th

49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com st

Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader ‘s choice 2017.

LE BOULEDOGUE Traditional French Cuisine / Paris 3rd For over 20 years, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional French fare using only seasonal produce. Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 11pm, with continuous service. Closed on Sunday.

20 rue Rambuteau, Paris 3rd Metro: Rambuteau/Hotel de Ville Tel: +33(0)1 40 27 90 90 www.lebouledogue.fr

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438 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 45 rue Dante, Paris 5th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92 4www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr

This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near NotreDame. Advisable to reserve.


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Restaurants

Fast Food Frenchie Style

FTG Photo © Virginie Garnier

Between traditional French cuisine and hearty dishes to keep warm we might sometimes feel like something a little lighter to start the day and we have recently discovered the cool FTG diner-like eatery for such moods. In the second arrondissement, in a quiet street is where you will find a menu with crunchy granola bowls drizzled with maple syrup and an avocado and egg salad seasoned with the house harissa sauce, a perfect combination of something healthy and filling. Breakfast is served here until 11.30am before the lunch menu is introduced with heartier options that you can eat in or take away and enjoy as you discover the fashionably hipster district, known as the Montorgueil quarter. The lunch menu here definitely leans away from the lighter side but includes such delights as the Lobster Roll served in a brioche roll, and the Reuben, a bursting pastrami sandwich with cheddar cheese and coleslaw, perhaps better suited to dining in. – S.I. FTG 9 rue du Nil (2nd), 01 42 21 96 92

CHIQUETTE, T H E N E W R E S TA U R A N T OF LE CINQ CODET!

On November 26th, the restaurant of the five-star property, Le Cinq Codet, reopened its doors to Chiquette, a cosy place to experience on the Left Bank. A new kitchen, new chef and new name, the restaurant reinvents itself and offers, from now on, a cosmopolitan and acidulated touch. After beginning in the United States, at the Four Seasons Palm Beach, Chef David Maroleau continued his career in the French kitchen of the Plaza Athénée and in the English kitchen of the Green House and the Ritz in London. Back in Paris, he integrated Michel Troisgros’ team at the Lancaster and was approached by The Majesctic Hotel Group to become Chef of the Hotel Montalembert .

©A.Schramm

Today, inspired by his previous international experiences, the Chef David Maroleau likes to feature dishes combining the best of each culture. 5 rue Louis Codet, Paris 7th • Tel. +33(0)1.53.85.15.60 • www.le5codet.com w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 81 WHERE PARIS 181x132 EN.indd 1

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Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

FOOD & WINE Beaupassage

This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), M° rue du Bac

Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter

with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson

a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.86.10.10. M° Pyramides

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

Nicolas

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - Indochinese

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€) (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent Cambodian, Laotian and Vietnamese dishes in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Savoury starters include the shrimp dumpling soup and a fine selection of dim sum. Excellent main courses include the chicken sautéed with fresh ginger and prawns braised in three different peppers. The restaurant has a nice list of French wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. M° Concorde

Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-range chicken in

The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite | FOOD & WINE (16th) 82 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

ISSUE

Aux Lyonnais | BISTRO (2nd)


cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L&D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Lulli - Classic French

(€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais RoyalMusée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Le Bouledogue - Traditional French Cuisine (€€) For over 20 years, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional French fare using only seasonal produce. Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm. 20 rue Rambuteau (3rd), 01.40.27.90.90. M° Rambuteau

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts

(omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

#300

DINING

Address Book

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Ze Kitchen Galerie | FUSION (6th)

Le Bouledogue | TRADITIONAL FRENCH CUISINE (3rd) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 83


#300

DINING

Address Book Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) Arpège - Contemporary

(€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Le Récamier - Classic French (€€)

This quintessential Parisian restaurant nestled on a quiet pedestrian street serves traditional French cuisine. Starters include homemade foie gras while a favourite main is the beef filet in pepper sauce. But the house is famous for its fine selection of soufflés, both sweet and savoury. Daily L&D, continuous service. 4 rue Récamier (7th), 01.45.48.86.58. M° Sèvres-Babylone

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and

restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€) Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet

(€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an exceptional wine list. Tues-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)

This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Manko Paris | PERUVIAN (8th) 84 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

Brasserie Réjane | BRASSERIE (1st) ISSUE


and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A nice wine list and house cocktails round out the offerings. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

(€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13 , 14 , 15 ) th

th

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

Cyril Lignac’s one-star restaurant serves a marketbased cuisine of originally prepared French classics with an Asian touch in a warm atmosphere. Main courses can include beef filet with homemade satay sauce or baked pigeon flavoured with miso. Mon-Fri L&D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne th

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed

#300

DINING

Address Book

This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)

ReminiSens - Classic French

This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes

Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt (€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Le Bar à Huîtres | SEAFOOD (14th)

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The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Take in a modern adaptation of Cinderella at Opéra Bastille (opposite page)

86 W H E R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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Cinderella , Opéra National de Paris Photo © Sébastien Mathé

Shows | Bars | Speakeasy Bars | Cabarets | Gentlemen’s Clubs | Clubs


#300

ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

A Hollywood Story The Opéra Bastille is welcoming Cinderella onto its stage on the 1st and 2nd of the month. The three-act ballet is an adaption of the very famous story of Cinderella by Charles Perrault, with the modern take on the tale taking place in Hollywood. Set to the music of Sergei Prokofiev, this Cinderella’s Prince Charming is a leading man and her fairy godmother a Hollywood producer. - S.I.

Cinderella , Opéra National de Paris Photo © Sébastien Mathé; Notre-dame de Paris Photo © Patrick CARPENTIER

Opéra Bastille Place de la Bastille (12th), 01 40 01 25 72

The Hunchback of Notre-Dame Based on the Victor Hugo novel, the Notre Dame de Paris musical is dramatically playing out at the Palais des Congrès de Paris after first debuting in Paris in 1998. Choreographed by Martino Müller, the musical tells the story of Quasimodo, played by Angelo Del Vecchio and Esmeralda, played by Hiba Tawaji, in a colourful setting complete with tolling bells. Showing until the 6th of January, catch this entertaining show that is still running strong after 20 years. - S.I. Tickets at Fnac. Palais des Congrès de Paris 2 Place de la Porte Maillot (17th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 87


#300

ENTERTAINMENT Bars

Mixing Mezcal Walk into a Mexican bar that no-one knows about and discover mezcal, the Mexican distilled spirit made from agave. La Mezcaleria is Hotel 1K’s speakeasy bar hidden in the back of the hotel’s kitchen and where the menu features quite the original, and at times very strong, cocktails all made with mezcal. Take a seat in the rustic bar with colourful throw pillows, skulls and a massive crucifix hanging on the ceiling, and try the Tiki Me Softly mixed with orange liquor and lime, or the No Secret for Victoria made with kombucha and citrusflavoured champagne. The menu smartly uses stars to indicate the strength of each drink to make sure you know what you’re getting yourself in for. - S.I. La Mezcaleria 13 blvd du Temple (3rd), 01 42 71 77 15

A Scented Cocktail

Les Heures Bar Prince de Galles Hotel 33 ave George V (8th), 01 53 23 77 77 88 W HE R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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xxxxx

In celebration of its 90th birthday, the Prince de Galles hotel has just released a collection of perfumes that have inspired the hotel bar’s new cocktail menu. Barman Florian Thireau and nose Jean-Charles Sommerard have worked together to bring patrons a novel way in enjoying a cocktail, starting with an olfactory invitation. Guests are invited to smell the fragrances, decide which is their favourite, and a cocktail inspired by the scent is then served up to be admired by all the senses. An original way to choose a cocktail and a fabulous way to celebrate a huge milestone. - S.I.


#300

ENTERTAINMENT Bars

David-Emmanuel Cohen

Cocktail Hour In a tropical dÊcor, you are invited into the recently opened Le Gloster bar where an international roll call of rums is being honoured. All the rum-based classics are here including the Mojito and Pina Colada, but if you’re looking for something more original try a drink from Its Very Cocktail, the signature cocktail menu that lists the delightfully sweet Mon Cherry, a dessert-like mixture of rum, amaretto, chocolate bitter and cherry bitter. The menu also includes other, equally original, cocktails made with other spirits in case rum is not a favourite with all patrons. Happy hour is from Tuesday to Saturday, from 6 to 9pm, with the Gloster Touch Cocktail available for only 9 euros. Please note that the bar is closed on Sundays and Mondays.. - S.I. Le Gloster 111 ave de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01 47 05 45 42

Sans titre-5 1

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 89 01/06/2017 11:51


#300

ENTERTAINMENT Cabarets

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm. www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

FASHION FREAK SHOW This latest addition to the Parisian cabaret scene is the masterwork of the French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier. This highly original revue, which is performed on the stage of the Folies Bergère, celebrates life and fashion and features actors, dancers and circus acts. Tues-Sat 8pm & Sat-Sun 3pm. www.foliesbergere.com Folies Bergère, 32 rue Richer (9th), 01 44 79 98 60 M° Grands Boulevards

LIDO The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance

spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.

Moulin Rouge

www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm. www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

An invitation to awaken your senses

Restaurant 8:30pm - 12:15am Club 10pm- 4am Closed on sundays Valet Parking available www.secretsquare.fr 27 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris Tél : +33(0)1 47 66 45 00 90 W H E R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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© Moulin Rouge ® - S.Franzese

CRAZY HORSE


© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2018 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DÎNER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 180€ - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77€ - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM €180 - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM


Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Ice Kube Paris

BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha-Bar This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Bar du Plaza Athénée Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

Le Bristol Bar

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Le Bar

Experimental Cocktail Bar A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2 arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier nd

Harry’s New York Bar This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

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The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

CASINO Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

JAZZ CLUBS Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the

Experimental Cocktail Bar | BARS & WINE BARS ISSUE


Address Book

talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Mona Lisa Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

Le Montana

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

NIGHT CLUBS Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club

Le Social Club

Les Bains

Secret Square

L’Arc Paris

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Pachamama This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Palais Maillot A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat

Pachamama | NIGHT CLUBS

#300

ENTERTAINMENT

11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Raspoutine This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Vanity Paris This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS Le Bel Canto Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

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The Guide

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris EUROSTAR & TRAINS

MEDICAL SERVICES

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge  74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying

stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

PARIS DISTRICTS

RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62,

LIMOUSINES Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Edward Limousines – Tel: 01.53.66.95.15 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

TAX REFUND When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens. 2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques. 3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

HAIR SALONS

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th),

Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the

01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde

VISITORS BUREAU Paris has a new welcome centre for visitors located right inside the City Hall. Reception teams, documentation, information on events, tours and outings, bookings and passes are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centre. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 29 rue de Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville. Also located at the Gare du Nord (10th) www.parisinfo.com

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01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Sefri-Cime - 20 place de Catalogne (14th), 01.40.48.57.00. M° Gaité Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the

sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants. 11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars. 13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie. 16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge. 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

OTCP Photos © Marc Bertrand / Paris Tourist Office

www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr


Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO ORLY AIRPORT The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction MassyVerrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M°

Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TER train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

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#300

SERVICES

Paris Metro

Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

96 W HE R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.


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w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 97


My Paris

SAMUEL DAVID

HEAD CONCIERGE AT LE ROCH HOTEL & SPA Lapérouse

Musée d’Orsay

Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty? For the most Parisian moment, I would go for Ducasse sur Seine and its exclusive dinner cruise. Indulge yourself with an exquisite dinner while floating silently at the feet of all of the main monuments. As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try? For a mix of experiences, I would suggest Le Pré Catelan for its modern cuisine in a peaceful atmosphere. Kei on Rue du Coq Heron for the talented Japanese chef who learned classical French cuisine with the greatest and mixes it with his culture. Also Lasserre will complete my top 3 as a very traditional restaurant with amazing classic French food and its unique and spectacular retractable roof, permitting dining under a canopy of stars. What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris? Notre-Dame and the Eiffel Tower are on top of the list. Also the Arc de Triomphe and its rooftop that gives you an amazing view over the Champs-Elysées and the Tuileries Garden down to the Louvre, makes it a must do while visiting Paris. If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do 98 W HE R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2019  S P E C I A L 300 T H

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so on the Right Bank or the Left Bank? Definitely the Right Bank, from Avenue Montaigne to Le Marais, from Saint-Honoré to the department stores (Printemps/Galeries Lafayette/BHV) cutting through Place Vendôme. What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance? For a very special occasion with my love I would go to the Lapérouse restaurant. After enjoying a glass of champagne at the bar, you can dine in one of their private salons before heading to the Crazy Horse for the most glamorous show in Paris. What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital? When coming to Paris with children, I suggest a visit to the National History Museum and its Evolution Gallery. Also the Jardin d’Acclimatation has just been renewed and offers nice family activities in the Bois de Boulogne. Not to forget activities installed along the Left Bank of the River Seine from Notre-Dame to the Eiffel Tower and why not go for the Enchanted Cruise with musical entertainment. What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city? Experimental Cocktail Club really came at the right time in Paris and offered a new atmosphere and cocktail place with DJ sets. Being more classic I always loved pushing the door at Harry’s New York Bar, birthplace of the brilliant Bloody Mary and serving amazing cocktails since 1911. Cosmopolitan,

Chatka

Eiffel Tower

sophisticated and chic with a like-minded clientele, order a dry martini and soak up some old-world style. I had the opportunity to meet Colin Field who was ranked top bartender in the world by both Forbes and Travel + Leisure magazines. He is the head bartender at the Hemingway Bar at the Hôtel Ritz Paris, and has created several drinks, such as the Picasso Martini, Highland Cream, Serendipity and Clean Dirty Martini. Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats? For brunch I would go for Angelina for its classic Belle Epoque décor and amazing pastries, or Spoon for a worldwide-inspired brunch. Le Comptoir Baulois on Rue Godot de Mauroy (open for teatime every day and for brunch on Saturdays) offers an amazing chocolate cake for all chocolate addicts named Fondant Baulois. Also Le Loir dans la Théière in the Marais has a large selection of huge cakes and pies.

My Perfect Day 9am: Walk through Tuileries Garden, visit at d’Orsay Museum and a visit at the Eiffel Tower 12pm: Lunch at Bistro Belhara 3pm: Shopping session on the right Bank before relaxing with a treatment at the Spa by Codage (Le Roch Hotel) 9pm: Private dinner at Le Roch’s Chatka, a Slavic Hut

where

®

Your Guide to the World

Concierge © Le Goff Et Gabarra; Ducasse en Seine © Pierre Monetta; Eiffel Tower, iStock 2018 © IpMaesstro; Chatka © Le Goff Et Gabarra; Musée d’Orsay, iStock 2018 © AndreyKrav

Ducasse sur Seine


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PRINTEMPS HAUSSMANN, 58 BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN 75009 PARIS OPEN EVERYDAY INCLUDING SUNDAY


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