Where Paris magazine, September 2018

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PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 296

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PARIS DESIGNS

Delve into the City’s Colourful Décor Scene FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS




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September PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

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PARIS | CONTENTS

The guide

10

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

26 SHOPPING

14

Travelling in Style

The latest trends and the hottest fashions

18

Meet Victor Sanz, Tumi’s Artistic Director who is keeping us looking stylish when travelling

56 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions

In Design

Be inspired by our roud-up of designer addresses in the French capital

70 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 84 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 94 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings S E P T E MBE R 2 0 18 Issue N o 296

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

PARIS DESIGNS

Delve into the City’s Colourful Décor Scene FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

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As the seasons slowly hand over the city one to another, the French

EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander*

capital doesn’t skip a beat in offering a myriad of things to do and to

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*

discover.

ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia*

September spells a welcome invitation to all design aficionados with the

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Maison & Objet trade show and Paris Design Week showcasing the latest

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creations from designers coming from all over the world. And in our In

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Design feature we share with you our favourite design inspirations, from the Eiffel Tower to one of Paris’s most iconic brasseries.

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We also meet and introduce you to Victor Sanz, Tumi’s Artistic Director,

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who shares with us his travel tips, his design process and how he

EDITORIAL & COMMUNICATIONS ASSISTANT Pauline Valter*

overcomes jetlag. Every lady and every gentleman knows the power of a great accessory,

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a watch, a bag and a great diamond necklace can add an extra touche

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to an outfit and in our Bejewelled Bags photo shoot your eyes can feast on some of the breathtaking creations in both haute joaillerie and

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leatherware from French and international houses.

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Meanwhile, for our visiting foodies, our Dining pages are overflowing

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with some great tables to discover, from pasta to pancakes, Asian cuisine and popular brasseries. There is something for every taste bud to devour, while our Entertainment section is bursting with an impressive

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selection of pop-up bars, from gin to Saint Tropez, everything is getting a dedicated and themed bar.

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We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Septembre 2018. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito

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8 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018


THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES

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September

HOT DATES Discover the best of September in Paris

Private Access 15 TO 16 SEPTEMBER As part of the 35th edition of the Journée Européennes du Patrimoine (European Heritage Days), when the public is invited to visit and discover hidden gems that are otherwise closed off to them, Kering is welcoming you into its head office at 40 rue de Sèvres. Once inside the exceptional heritage site you will discover works of art that make up the Pinault Collection as well as haute couture designs from the Balenciaga archives. 40 rue de Sèvres (7th)

10 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P TTEEM MBBEERR 22018 018


Kering © Eric Sander; Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes © Nicolas Chavrance; Golf : iStock 2018 © Riulles;Photo © Marina Faust - Maison Martin Margiela, Automne-Hiver 1991-1992

PARIS THIS MONTH

A Night in Versailles EVERY SATURDAY Fall in love in Versailles while taking in the Fountains Night show every Saturday night. Between 8.30pm and 10.40pm the chateau’s gardens become a fairy tale setting with its fountains coming alive and dancing to the laser and music show before the fireworks display lights up the skies at 10.50pm, exploding in majestic colour. Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, 01 30 83 78 00

Ryder Cup 25 TO 30 SEPTEMBER Just outside of Paris at the Albatros Course of Le Golf National the 2018 Ryder Cup will be held with golf pros showing off their honed skills and competing for the coveted Cup. For followers of the sport and amateur players, this is an event not to be missed while in the French capital. 2 ave du Golf, Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, 01 30 43 36 00

Mad About Margiela THROUGH TO THE 2ND This is your last chance to take in the Hermès Years exhibition at the MAD. Celebrating designer Martin Margiela’s years at French fashion house Hermès, the fashion show is a walk through his designs with visitors invited to see up close and personal 120 pieces that the designer created for the house between 1997 and 2003. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 55 57 50 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 11


PARIS THIS MONTH

Trades Shows & Arts Fair SEPTEMBER 7-10 BIJORHCA

Party in Paris ALL MONTH With the warmer slowly fading out, take advantage of the last summer nights and enjoy an evening at La Boumette. The al fresco club takes you outside, at the foot of the famous Opéra Garnier every weekend, where resident DJ Ludo Di Lucci will be spinning and Cointreau will be serving up refreshing cocktails. The pop-up club opens its doors at 10pm where revellers can enjoy cocktails under the star-filled Parisian sky before the real party starts at midnight. Ladies are treated to free entry before midnight. Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 07 89 05 32 81

PFW FROM THE 24TH Paris Fashion Week takes hold of the city starting today with all our favourite brands showcasing their spring/summer 2019 collections. Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior are only some of the big name houses showing their new collections for next year’s warmer months. Be inspired, be amused, but most of all take in the extraordinary and unique vibe coursing through the city during Fashion Week.

This international, professionals only, fair is devoted to fine fashion jewellery, watches, the manufactures and suppliers. Some 400 exhibitors reveal the latest trends and collections while exhibitions from individual creators and conferences round out the agenda. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 10th. www.bijorhca.com Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

SEPTEMBER 8-16 LA BIENNALE PARIS This prestigious event is being held for the 30th time this year in the French capital and brings together the finest in art and antiques with a host of galleries and art dealers coming from France and abroad. This year the show is hosting an exhibition of Napoleon-related pieces emanating from the exceptional collection of Pierre-Jean Chalençon. The show is open from 12pm until 8pm, until 10:30 on the 13th and until 6pm on the 16th. www.biennale-paris.com Grand Palais Ave Winston Churchill (8th)

SEPTEMBER 19-21 PREMIERE VISION PLURIEL Grouping together six different fairs, this trade show, for professionals only, takes you straight into the world of fashion and textiles with its latest trends and innovations. Visitors can enter into the worlds of yarns, fabrics, leather, designs, accessories and manufacturing. The show is open from 9am to 6:30pm. www.premierevision.com Parc des Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte

SEPTEMBER 28-30 FOIRE DE CHATOU This show, which is held twice a year draws some 500 merchants from all over France displaying antiques, wares and bric-a-brac reflecting regional traditions, crafts and gastronomy all spread out over a miniature village setting on an island in the Seine. An exhibition entitled Heroes of Our Childhood, 1960-1990, is being held at this year’s show. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.foiredechatou.com Ile des Impressionnistes, 78400 Chatou, 01 34 80 66 00

THROUGH TO THE 2ND Take your last dip in the Parisian beach before it closes for the year. Transforming itself once again into a beachside haven the French capital invites locals and visitors to escape the sweltering heat with the annual Paris Plages event. Along the Seine the riverbanks have transformed into a beach resort, complete with sand, palm trees and water activities. The children will love all the activities organised for them while adults can take in the live entertainment taking place in the evenings, which include street performances. Casual eateries and ice-cream vendors are also found along the “beach”. 12 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

Well-being, organic products, healing careers and personal development for one and all are to be found at this trade show celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. Some 350 exhibitors, conferences, workshops and classes in various Zen methods are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10:30am to 7pm, and until 9pm on the 28th. Last tickets half an hour before closing time. www.salon-zen.fr Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th), 01 45 56 09 09

Paris Plage © Paris Tourist Office - David Lefranc

Beachy Paris

SEPTEMBER 27-30 SALON ZEN



Interview

“I am excited to see that people are happy with what we are making when I see someone carry a Tumi bag, that they are connecting with it. There is a lot of choice out there and they are choosing to carry a Tumi bag.� - Victor Sanz

14 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018


Travelling in Style By Sandra Iskander

H

e is the star designer at Tumi, designing our favourite travel accessories, and when Victor Sanz isn’t designing he is travelling. And travel he does, with one of his recent stops being in the French capital where Tumi opened their flagship boutique on the famous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. Sanz, the Artistic Director at Tumi, who has been with the company for 14 years, previously designed digital cameras before joining the house famous for its luggage, with the designer explaining that designing cameras and bags are very similar in approach. “The process is the same, how [something] works, how does it feel, look, the manufacturing process, how do we get it to last a long period of time, what’s it saying to the customer, what am I trying to say. I think that all applies to designing digital cameras and now [in] designing bags,” he explains. “The other part is also about pushing the limits of manufacturing, what hasn’t been done before. We spend a lot of time doing material research. We call a lot of companies that have never thought about using their materials in bags, like bulletproof military vests, using the same material to make bags,” he continues, “and today Latitude, the lightest collection Tumi’s made to date, captures the idea of engineering, architecture, sculpture, and fluidity.” Sanz, who is constantly travelling finds inspiration in everything he sees, from a curve in a ceiling to a pattern on a wall, is forever monitoring how people are travelling and surveying their needs. “I always start with what the customer wants when I start a new collection. [I ask] what are the customers’ needs? How have their lives changed and how are they going about their business, and that is really what drives the design of the bags.” When designing a collection for the house’s new millennial customer, which Sanz describes as “all about the experience, it is all about the destination,” the designer and his team focused on creating a collection that caters to those

very needs, and the result was the launch of the Merge collection, which brings a younger, fresher, and softer approach to bag-designing. With a more relaxed attitude, the collection incorporates practicality and the fear of missing out attitude that said customer posseses, bringing a selection of bags that feature a lot of pockets, each one serving an on-the-go service, an easy to access pack of clothes to go straight to the beach from the airport or to the latest bar to open. “That’s what I like about designing for Tumi, the industrial design thinking, the utility and thinking beyond the face, using different materials to better cater to our different customers,” Sanz says. And further changing the image Tumi has as being quite a masculine brand, Sanz is looking beyond the functional aspect of luggage. Asking “why can’t you travel with something much more artistic that has an expression? Why can’t we design something that connects with our customers on an emotional level? The designer shares that shoppers will be seeing more creative designs from Tumi, creating not just “a really great bag but a really great bag that is really beautiful and it is really fashion-forward and it is inspiring the customers and it is inspiring the industry because I think people more than ever want to look put together when they travel, they want to feel good when they get on the plane and when they get off the plane. Sometimes they go straight to a meeting as soon as they get off the plane or they’re going to a meeting and they’re going to have their bag with them, they want to look put together, and say ‘hey I’m confident and look good’, so we’re creating those tools for both men and women. The world is changing and we want to stay on pace and beyond pace of what is happening.” The part-time professional traveller, a by-product of working around the world, Sanz is also Tumi’s test dummy, always travelling with prototypes and new pieces, explaining that “it is important for us to say, if this is supposed w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 15


Interview

The designer who has a passion for industrial design and fashion, though had never made a bag before joining Tumi, has brought his knowledge of designing cameras and the technical aspects of how materials are moulded and painted. Breathing new life into the brand, Sanz is now designing more fashionable bags while respecting the brand’s design DNA. Bringing fashion elements to Tumi’s designs as the brand expands, has also attracted a new clientele and introduced new items including belts, jackets, and iPhone cases. Aware that the world is changing and wanting to evolve with it, Sanz has changed the general perception that Tumi is more of a masculine brand. “When people think about Tumi especially in the past it was masculine-driven and now by understanding the brand more and understanding our customers [we realised] women were buying the brand because they wanted something that performed exceptionally well, they loved the functionality, they loved the durability, and we said ‘well how do we create a product that is more specifically geared to women that doesn’t sacrifice those key details that they love but are speaking to them in their vernacular, in their aesthetic’. So obviously what we are doing now, we [started] by launching the Voyageur Nylon bag, a lightweight, casual and carefree collection, and that is the baseline of our women’s group and now the Mariella collection, which our female CEO was the muse for. We realised we have women in business, these powerful forces 16 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

and yet they’re still carrying two bags, one is their fashion bag and the other one is their function bag and what we’re saying is why does it have to be that way, why cant it be one bag that does both and that’s how Mariella came about. You have a bag that is beautifully designed, aesthetically amazing, and it functions perfectly for them where by it has a discreet laptop section or a discreet iPad section, places for their phones, their business cards. So we think about them in context of business, in context of fashion, how they’re living their lives.” Aligning Tumi with more established fashion brands, Sanz says that now the house does “a lot of seasonal drops for both men and women but within the women category we have a lot of fun like doing bright colour pops, lipstick colours, to appealing more to our women customers. It is exciting because we can have more fun and execute more regularly. Men are simpler, they’re like we have a bag we’ll figure out how to use it, we love it and we don’t want to change it. I want to give customers a better choice that works better than something else. You see someone in a $3000 suit and a $30 bag and you ask ‘why is he making that choice? Why is he choosing that backpack?’, and it is probably because it is big and it carries all his stuff, so I think ‘I’m going to create a better option for him, something that is going to match what he is trying to say, how he is dressed, how he is presenting himself with his bag and that is the motivation to create something that is so put together that he is going to feel so much better.” The designer’s latest addition to the ever-growing Tumi collections of bags is the Champs-Elysées Exclusive collection. The collection, available exclusively at the recently opened Parisian flagship boutique, is a chic combination of fashion and Tumi’s expertise. Designed with both ladies and gentlemen in mind, the limited edition collection includes a toe bag and a backpack, and designed in classically chic black with elegant silver detailing, the pieces translate perfectly what Sanz wants to achieve for the brand, elegant yet practical pieces that can take both ladies and gentlemen from the airport to the office and from the office to dinner without compromising style. TUMI BOUTIQUE 63 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01 40 73 83 60

TOP TRAVELLING TIPS With a professional traveller being his second occupation, we asked the designer to share with us his best travel advise. His first pearl of wisdom to get over jetlag is to try to not spend too much time in the hotel room, as the bed as he describes it “it’s just there and as soon as you get a little tired you say I will lay down for a minute but then that’s the killer, so I typically will go out for a walk, get outside, start doing things and get my brain active.” Drink lots of fluids and eat really healthy. I like just having a carry on. I don’t like waiting, just get the carry-on and go. Look at the weather and plan accordingly and know what you’re doing during the day and bring a couple of options because you don’t know how you’re going to be feeling. Focus on your colour palette, keep it simple, keep it flexible because then it’s easy to match and allow yourself to be comfortable and put together, try not to stress out. Be friendly. A smile goes a long way and being friendly to flight attendants especially when they’re not in control either. Flying can already be stressful with delays, strikes, and cancellations. Always pack plenty of power, make sure you have chargers and mobile batteries, an extra change of clothes. Music, sketchbook, iPhone, and sunglasses, it’s an easy accessory even on the plane if you want to take a quick nap and still look good and when you’re trying to hide the jetlag bags.

Boutique © Imagera

to be good enough for our customers to use we should be pushing it and putting it through the paces, it’s fun. The thing about the brand is we never sit still. We are always developing and always improving it, and with existing collections we will continually make improvements to the bags because we believe it is our role to do that and to give that to our customers. Tumi’s iconic design is the Alpha, but we are always improving it. Our collections need to stay fresh and contemporary for the evolving world we live in and that is our greatest challenge, to think ‘how do you improve on a staple piece of the DNA of the brand without losing the DNA’, for people to say ‘wow, that is new and really exacting.’ The Alpha is one of the cornerstones of the brand and I think there is an amazing amount of technology in there that has been incorporated in there. It’s the evolution of a product but it still [remains] Alpha.”


www.redline-boutique.com


IN DESIGN

Design

By Sandra Iskander

Brasserie Auteuil 18 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018


Brasserie Auteuil and La Lorraine ®Yann Deret; Ma Cocotte © Francis Amiand; Le Bristol Paris x Lynn Chadwick

Design enthusiasts are spoilt for choice with remarkable designs dotting the French capital serving as creative inspirations. From Paris’s most emblematic Tower to the city’s new restaurants, designers have brought a new life to old institutions and given birth to a whole lot more addresses to admire when visiting the city.

It is one of Paris’s grandest hotels known for creating a luxurious home for visiting tourists, and now Le Bristol Paris is transforming its serene garden into an outdoor exhibition space welcoming the works of Lynn Chadwick. Through to the 31st of October, three bronze sculptures by the British artist will be shown, beautifully admired from Le Jardin Français, bringing to the charming French garden Chadwick’s signature abstract creations inspired by human form. Le Bristol Paris 112 rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré (8th), 01 53 43 43 00

It is one of the city’s most popular destinations with visitors from around the world browsing its offerings looking for a certain treasure. And the French capital’s famous flea market, Les Puces, not only brings together art dealers, vintage furniture and retro home décor items, but it also boasts Ma Cocotte. Designed by über-designer Philippe Starck, the restaurant is designed like a home with photo frames, books and a communal table creating a convivial atmosphere that works well into blending into the flea market found at its doorstep, making Les Puces a two-for-one destination when in Paris. Ma Cocotte 106 rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen, 01 49 51 70 00

Laura Gonzalez, one of Paris’s most talked about interior designers, has painted some of the city’s most popular restaurants with her magical design brush. In the chic 16th arrondissement, she was responsible for giving Brasserie Auteuil a country feel by planting a secret garden on its rooftop, inviting diners to sip on cocktails and share pizzas in one of Paris’s coolest rooftops. And now the young designer has given La Lorraine a much-appreciated facelift. The iconic Parisian eatery serves fresh seafood and authentic French fare, brasserie-style, which can now be enjoyed in a décor inspired by the sea. Calling on talented artisans, the designer created a mosaic floor and an under the sea mural where Parisians and tourists can dine in a refreshing, yet elegant setting, which introduces a new era for the restaurant that has served seafood since 1919. Brasserie Auteuil, 78 rue d’Auteuil (16th), 01 40 71 11 90 La Lorraine, 2 Place des Ternes (8th), 01 56 21 22 00 La Lorraine w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 19


Design

T he recently opened Juliette Has a Gun café/boutique, Café Juliette, has introduced a new way to shop for a perfume thanks to the talents of designer Killian Bouguen. Bouguen has translated the spirit of the perfume brand into a space that encompasses playfulness, sexiness and the art of scent. Designed like a café, where shoppers are actually invited to enjoy a free coffee or tea, the boutique is chic in its simplicity with perfume on tap, just like beer, filling glasses with the house’s perfumes for shoppers to smell the different notes making up each scent for a more intoxicating scent test. The cheeky concept boutique also features a powder room inspired by nightclubs complete with graffiti and blacklight. Café Juliette 2 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 45 74 00 00

T he Eiffel Tower was originally built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World Fair. The iron structure, symbolising the City of Light the world over, is now over 125 years old, and is as grand as ever, sparkling and glittering with lights for five minutes every hour on the hour. Gustave Eiffel created the Iron Lady to stand 300 metres high, and with 1652 steps leading to the top, it is one of the city’s most monumental structures and it is from where you can see Paris from high above and fall in love with the most beautiful city in the world. Eiffel Tower 103 Quai Branly (7th), 01 44 11 23 23

He is one of France’s most celebrated interior designers, and now Christian Liaigre is opening up his world to the public through Liaigre’s flagship showroom, which was overseen by the house’s Creative Director Frauke Meyer. The recently inaugurated showroom is the first space created by the house to be made public, inviting fellow designers, clients and design aficionados to peruse over 400 pieces from the house’s catalogue including furniture, fabrics and home décor accessories. Sprawled over four floors, the flagship is an open invitation to discover the world of the designer who famously worked on homes for Karl Lagerfeld and Rupert Murdoch. Liaigre 77 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré

Constructed between 1163 and 1345, the Notre Dame de Paris is a Gothic masterpiece. Breathtaking in design, it was among the first constructions worldwide to use arched exterior supports. The Notre Dame also holds a number of bells, including two bourdon bells that are located in the South Tower. Perhaps the most impressive of features of the cathedral is the South Rose Window. A gift from King Saint Louis, it was designed by Jean de Chelles and Pierre de Montreuil, and was constructed in 1260 as a counterpoint to the North Rose Window. Dedicated to the New Testament, it is almost 19 metres in height and features 84 panes, which are divided into four circles. Another notable quality of the Notre Dame is the great organ. With five keyboards, one hundred and ninety ties and eight thousand pipes, it is France’s largest organ and one of the world’s most renowned. Notre Dame de Paris Place du Parvis Notre Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 20 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

Fondation Louis Vuitton © Iwan Baan; Notre-Dame iStock 2018 © Iakov Kalinin; Café Juliette © Zoe-Fidji Schmidmaier

Designed by American architect Frank Gehry, the Fondation Louis Vuitton is both a work of art in and of itself. The art museum and cultural centre was designed using 3600 glass panels, capturing and bouncing off the light, creating an architectural triumph for the space that aims to promote art and cultural. Built on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne, the Fondation hosts temporary exhibitions on a regular basis, although the structure itself is worth a visit for design enthusiasts. Fondation Louis Vuitton 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01 40 69 96 00


Omar Victor Diop

Your style, your way AT LA VALLÉE VILLAGE, NEAR PARIS In a charming open-air setting, discover more than 110 boutiques with savings of up to 50%* all year long, including Armani, Coach, Furla, Michael Kors, Moncler, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sandro, Tod’s and many more. There is also an instant tax refund and money change service.‡ The Village is open seven days a week, and is just 40 minutes from Paris and five minutes from Disney® Parks. Receive a VIP Card for a 10% reduction on the Village price in six boutiques of your choice and enjoy complimentary Hands-free Shopping§. #LaValleeVillage #LovetheMoment |

EU RO P E B I C E ST E R V I L L AG E LO N D O N | K I L DA R E V I L L AG E D U B L I N | L A VA L L É E V I L L AG E PA R I S I N G O L STA DT V I L L AG E M U N I C H | M A A SM EC H E L E N V I L L AG E B RUSS E L S | F I D E N Z A V I L L AG E M I L A N L A S ROZ A S V I L L AG E M A D R I D | C H I N A SU Z H O U V I L L AG E SU Z H O U | SH A N G H A I V I L L AG E S H A N G H A I

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W E RT H E I M V I L L AG E F R A N K F U RT L A RO C A V I L L AG E BA RC E LO N A

*At least 33% off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections all year round and up to 50% off in certain periods and boutiques. ‡Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique. §When you present this invitation at the La Vallée Village Welcome Center on or before 30 September 2018. © La Vallée Village 07/18


Design

Fab Finds for the Home

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GOLDEN GLOW 1 - Sophie Seguela, 161 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01 43 59 56 99 2 - Rouge Absolu, 3 rue des Saints-Pères (6th), 01 42 61 61 61 3 - Hamilton Conte, 50 rue de Babylone (7th), 01 75 57 76 52 4 - Maison Dada, available at Silvera Boutique, 43 rue du Bac (7th), 01 53 63 25 10 5 - Christian Lacroix Maison x Roche Bobois, available at Roche Bobois Boutique, 98 blvd de Sébastopol (3rd), 01 42 78 10 50 22 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

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TOP FIVE HOME DECOR STORES THE CONRAN SHOP Founded by Terence Conran, this store is a design haven boasting carefully selected pieces from well-known and up-and-coming designers from all over the world. 117 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 84 10 01 MAISONS DU MONDE This chain of furniture stores offers décor pieces with an ethnic flair. 5 blvd Montmartre (2nd), 01 42 36 00 99

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DYSON This is where you will find all of award-winning James Dyson’s designs including the Dual Cyclone bagless vacuum cleaner. 64 rue de la Boétie (8th), 01 56 69 79 79 FLEUX’ This popular multi-brand store in the Marais offers a colourful choice of home objects ranging from modern to retro in style. 39 rue Saint-Croix de la Bretonnerie (4th), 01 42 78 27 20

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EARTHY TOUCH

6 - Karen Petit, available at Empreintes, 5 rue de Picardie (3rd), 01 40 09 53 80 7 - Monoprix x Gien, available at Monoprix, 23 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 61 78 08 8 - Chantal Thomass x Maisons du Monde, available at Maisons du Monde Boutique, 5 blvd Montmartre (2nd), 01 42 36 00 99 9 - Tommy Hilfiger Home, 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01 42 60 70 02 10 - Alessi, 31 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 42 66 31 00 11 - Roche Bobois x Kenzo, available at Roche Bobois Boutique, 98 blvd de Sébastopol (3rd), 01 42 78 10 50 12 - Lothantique, 17 rue Ferdinand (4th), 01 42 78 28 39

PRINTEMPS DE LA MAISON The city’s famous department store’s home décor department offers a luxurious selection of furniture and decorative pieces for the maison. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 72 82 67 16 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 23


WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Journeys with the House of

F.P. JOURNE

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P. Journe - Invenit et Fecit - opened a prestigious watch Boutique-Lounge in Paris, the world capital of fashion and the arts, in December of 2008 at 63 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, close to the Elysée Palace. It is an address that is even more prestigious as number 63 previously housed the Gallery Pétrides, the home for numerous works of art and more importantly the gallery that represented the celebrated French painter Utrillo.

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However, times change and the premises are now home to another art – F.P. Journe – Invenit et Fecit watches, the Chronomètre à Résonance, an emblematic creation of the art of François-Paul Journe, the Tourbillon with constant force device and dead beat seconds, the Grande Sonnerie and other ultra slim pieces like the Minute Repeater, the Centigraphe or the Octa automatic calibre have earned F.P. Journe the most prestigious awards at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie of Geneva as well as awards in other countries around the world.

Today, the Boutique F.P. Journe has become a Maison, a House. It illustrates the lifestyle of the brand, its unique philosophy with haute horology codes, authenticity, innovation, rarity, and the art of living, of thinking and of hosting with a personalised art of welcome. A house that identifies itself in the heart of its world with the plurality of its various métiers (professions) and transmits its values of excellence to a clientele that comes to visit as if in a home, to exchange views, to simply have a coffee or converse for a little while with a glass of champagne, to discover


WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

The Octa Quantième Perpetaul

one of the many books on the history of watchmaking or to meet a collector and share a common passion. To enter the House of Journe is to find watchmaking exclusivity and the freedom of creation, the passion, the know-how and the excellence of a limited production, with a subtle balance between tradition and new technologies, as well as the important manual work done with the greatest precision by the craftsmen of the manufacture and the kindness and the sharing of expertise of the hosts of the House of Journe. Paris can take pride in having among its prestigious brands that of an exceptional watchmaker, French born but established in Switzerland, who has been building highly honoured, innovative precision chronometers for more than 35 years. The Parisian Maison Journe was entirely designed by François-Paul Journe, in harmony with the concept of the previous boutiquessalons. It features the complete collections of the brand, including special editions and limited series reserved solely for the boutique, an agreeable lounge-salon, a horological library and a bar allowing art haute horology aficionados to converse about their mutual passion, an after-sales service and the offices of the house’s French subsidiary.

F.P. JOURNE 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th) 01 42 68 08 00 www.fpjourne.com

The Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante

The back of the Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante

The Black Dial Chronometer from the Limited Edition Black Label Boutique Collectio

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The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

For Her | Beauty Buys | For Him | Accessories | Department Stores | Shopping Maps

Turn to page 36 for more of our Bejewelled Bags photo shoot

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Photo © Alex Fadel

L’Etrange bag Messika Beloved Feather necklace


SHOPPING

For Her

Lighting is Not a Toy Fashion isn’t reserved for clothes with Jeremy Scott, the artistic director of Moschino, teaming up with Kartell to dress up their new lamp in the Italian brand’s mascot. The fashion brand’s loveable bear is all lit up thanks to Kartell’s know-how in lighting, creating a bedside table in the bear’s form. The playful creation is a perfect representation of the two brands’ love of fun with design and the result is a home decor addition perfect to any home that is all about fashion and originality. - S.I. Kartell Boutique 242 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01 45 48 68 37

Bart’s Logos He is the trouble-maker from the long-running animated series The Simpsons, and now everyone’s favourite terror, Bart, is making his mark on some of the world’s most famous fashion houses. From streetwear to couture, Bart has popped up on every logo with a series of limited edition t-shirts, sweaters and hoodies. Parisian brand Bart to the Savage has given the mischievous character carte blanche as he glides onto a Balenciaga sweatshirt, paints on Dior and tags Adidas and Stussy, and chills on Nike’s swoosh logo. - S.I. Available at www.bartothesavage.com w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 27


SHOPPING For Her

Personal PJs When it comes to looking stylish and being comfortable nothing beats loungewear, with inner wear becoming outwear. Embracing the trend and working towards treating stylish ladies to loosefitting yet very fashionable pieces, PiÚ has created a line of pyjamas that can easily fit into any wardrobe. Inspired by classic men’s shirts, the collection features a selection of different matching shirts/pyjama tops and pants that can be easily mixed and matched with wardrobe basics. The brand also offers a monogramming service, bringing your personal touch to the pieces. - S.I. Available at Le Bristol Hotel

Chic Cashmere It is one of our favourite concept stores in the French capital, where shoppers can find the colourful and unique jewellery collection of Gas Bijoux, and it is also here where you can find the capsule collections designed by Marie Gas, the founder of the famous concept stores. By Marie, the brand, offers two collections every year with wardrobe staples that include coats and pyjama-style shirts, though the standout pieces every winter season is her cashmere sweaters. Hand-knitted in Nepal, Marie designs approximately 6 different models of the sweaters every season, creating a must-have luxurious item that easily mixes and matches with any wardrobe.. - S.I. By Marie Boutique 8 ave George V (8th), 01 53 23 88 00 28 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018


G A L E R I ES L A FAY E T T E PA R I S H AU S S M A N N

LA DESTINATION MODE* Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, of fers more than 3,500 brands from af fordable to the most prestigious references amongst which Chanel, Christian Dior, Cartier, Saint Laurent Paris, Dolce & Gabbana, Fauré Lepage, Messika, Céline, Bulgari, Rolex, Fendi, Gucci, Ralph Lauren…

THE GO FOR GOOD MOVEMENT

ADIDAS BY STELLA MCCARTNEY

SANCTUARY OF STILLNESS

Galeries Lafayette is implementing a product sourcing strategy to spotlight initiatives by its own brands and partner brands to promote more ecologically and socially responsible manufacturing and consumption. No matter how big or small and irrespective of whether they cover all brand lines, these initiatives will be clearly identified in our stores through explicit product labelling. To be included in our GO FOR GOOD selection, a brand’s products must meet at least one criterion in any one the following areas: environmentally friendly, socially responsible and locally sourced.

Like a lot of tie - up s, S tella Mc C ar tney’s collaboration with Adidas was pretty much love at first sight. And while the two brands’ long-running partnership has since spawned a second and even a third collection, the appeal to sportswear fans never fades. The next collaborative sportswear collection will be showcased in the Fashion Sport space and will feature a selection of sneakers made from recycled materials. Shoppers can also take part in GO FOR GOOD fitness classes endorsed by the two brands.

As part of the GO FOR GOOD programme, Galerie des Galeries is hosting the Sanctuary of Stillness , a unique space designed by Stella McCartney to allow visitors to explore the art of meditation, which the designer has been using on a daily basis for many years to nourish her relationship with the world around her. In a serene, contemplative space created by London designer Faye Toogood using eco-friendly materials and processes and ar tisan techniques, Stella McCar tney invites shoppers to stroll around and explore, observe, feel and experience a progressive awakening of the senses.

GALERIES L AFAYET TE PARIS HAUSSMANN: 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN, 75009 PARIS

METRO: CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - L A FAYET TE

Open every day from 9.30 am to 8.30 pm and on Sunday from 11 am to 8 pm. Ouvert tous les jours de 9h30 à 20h30 et le dimanche de 11h à 20h. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 - haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en *The ultimate shopping destination


SHOPPING For Her

Jumping for Style Jumpsuits, playsuits or overalls, whatever you call the one-piece fashion staple, it is fashion designer Carolina Ritzler’s wardrobe star. The designer’s eponymous brand focuses on creating the signature piece in a myriad of designs, to complement every woman, shape and taste without compromising style. While the brand designs and offers ladies other fashionable pieces including coats, pants and dresses, it is the jumpsuit that has put the brand in the spotlight. Made in Paris, the jumpsuits are available in leather, denim and wool, making it easy to find the perfect one for any occasion. Easy to dress up or down, with heels or with sneakers, Carolina’s jumpsuits are our favourite go-to for drinks at the Ritz or sightseeing around the Eiffel Tower. - S.I. Carolina Ritzler Boutique 33 rue Etienne Marcel (1st), 01 44 54 67 75 Open Monday to Friday, and Saturday upon appointment

Boho Chic American fashion brand Tory Burch’s latest collection for the autumn/winter season is all about luscious layers and romantic prints. Printed asymmetrical dresses, pussycat bows and loose-fitting blouses are all an ode to femininity without being too cliché. Cascading ruffles meet shirts with cinched-in waists, contrasting prints and kaftan dresses all borrow from a bohemian spirit with touches of structured cuts coming through in pinafores and sergeant pepper style jackets, creating a complete wardrobe with contrasting cuts and a colour palette that borrows from the rainbow with pink, red, green and the house’s signature Tory Navy. The mix and match pieces can beautifully work into a boho chic-loving fashionista’s wardrobe as well as ladies who lean towards a more classic style looking to inject their wardrobe with statement prints and a hint of colour without being too overpowering. - S.I. Tory Burch Boutique 412 Rue Saint Honoré (8th), 01 42 61 95 50 30 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018


SHOPPING

For Her

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Yurkievich © SHOJI FUJII; Burberry © Kim Weston Arnold

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1 - Cyclas, www.cyclas-official.com 2 - Gaspard Yurkievich, 38 rue Charlot (3rd), 01 42 77 42 46 3 & 9 - Burberry, 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 72 07 00 21 4 - Calvin Klein, Forum des Halles, 101 rue Berger (2nd), 01 40 15 91 17 5 - Vivienne Westwood, 175 rue Saint-Honoré(1st), 01 84 79 33 99 6 - Massimo Dutti, 24 rue Royale (8th), 01 53 29 92 70 7 - Guess, 32 rue Étienne Marcel (1st), 01 42 36 02 54 8 - Tudor, available at Bucherer, 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01 70 99 18 88 10 - Wolford, 257 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 97 54 55 11 - Azurée Cannes, available at François Pinet, 1 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01 42 61 11 62 12 - Escada, 2 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 42 89 83 45 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 31


SHOPPING Beauty

IN THE NUDE

- S.I.

Bella Hadid in Dior

Kendall Jenner uture in Schiaparelli Haute Co

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1 - Urban Decay, 48 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 42 72 37 76 2 - L’Oréal Paris, 62 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01 40 37 91 78 3 - Essie, available at Marionnaud, 104 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01 53 96 50 00 4 - Laura Mercier, available at Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00 5 & 6 - Chanel, 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01 44 50 66 00 7 - Karl Lagerfeld, available at Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 8 - Yves Saint Laurent, available at Printemps, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00 9 & 10 - Christian Louboutin, available at Printemps 11 & 12 - Dior, 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 45 63 12 51 32 WH E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Kendall Jenner in Schiaparelli Haute Couture © 2018 Venturelli; Bella Hadid © Dior © 2018 Stephane Cardinale - Corbis

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WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

LE BHV MARAIS

THE PARISIANS’ FAVORITE DEPARTMENT STORE Boasting a 160 year history, LE BHV MARAIS is a Parisian institution, housing over 2,000 brands and a bespoke set of tourist packages, straight from the heart of the Marais

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ounded in 1856 and ideally located at the entrance of Marais district, the flagship LE BHV MARAIS finds itself amidst the capital’s most famous tourist destinations; the Louvre, Notre Dame and the Pompidou centre included. An area entirely unique in the world, the Marais is an epicenter of trends, uniting history, nightlife and shopping in one distinctive location. This year, LE BHV MARAIS is opening its doors to this historical quarter, giving you a front row seat! The store has created its own tailor made tourist packages that take place in the Marais, showing you the most exclusive cultural, arty and foodie spots to be seen. Round off the experience with a luxurious shopping spree in the department store and a well deserved drink on the rooftop bar of Le Perchoir Marais.

Book your bespoke Marais package via Expedia Or contact us on: booking@bhv.fr

passionate sales experts are forever on hand to make your experience truly one of a kind.

The Parisians’ favorite department store, LE BHV MARAIS welcomes 70,000 visitors on average each day. An immense space, this multispecialist store houses over 2,000 brands within its 45,000m2 surface area, catering to any kind of lifestyle needs, be they fashion, home, beauty, DIY or food. You name it!

Feeling peckish? LE BHV MARAIS will tickle your tastebuds with some of the most delicious gourmet names, such as Marcolini Chocolates, L’Artisan de la Truffe, Café Marlette and Big Fernand. Better yet, the store enjoys one of the best views in the city, direct from its rooftop. Want to see it up close? Come and discover Le Perchoir Marais, the rooftop bar with a panoramic view that needs to be seen to be believed.

A stone’s throw away on the Rue des Archives, 5 luxury boutiques have been opened to offer a new range of high-end items. Come and discover the spacious stores of Royal Quartz, Givenchy, Gucci, Fendi and Moncler.

For WHERE PARIS readers, LE BHV MARAIS offers you free beverage and pastry of your choice at the Café Marlette (3rd floor), healthy and seasonal restaurant, for 50€ spent in-store. How

A hub of activity and creativity, LE BHV MARAIS presents countless pop ups and collaborations throughout the year, putting new designers and brands in the spotlight. Exclusive international previews, a cutting edge press area and

to get them: take a picture of this page, and show it with your receipt at the Welcome Desk (ground floor, main store). Book your bespoke Marais package via Expedia Or contact us on: booking@bhv.fr

CELEBRATE THE GOLDEN WEEK AT LE BHV MARAIS From 17th September to 12th October 2018, many special offers are waiting for all the Asian visitors. Ask for more information at our welcome desk (ground floor, main store). LE BHV MARAIS - 52 rue de Rivoli –75004 Paris Tel: 00 (33) 977 401 400 - Open Monday-Saturday: 9.30am – 8pm; on Sunday: 11am – 7.30pm www.bhv.fr/en

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SHOPPING For Him

Surfer Dudes Surf’s up at the Oxbow boutique where everything here celebrates the surfing culture. Opening earlier this year, Oxbow offers surfers a wonderful space where you can coolly peruse the racks full of casual gear to take you from the city to the beach and back. T-shirts, boardshorts and pants sit aside belts, beach towels and caps to help you curate your surf style with ease, and the best part of the boutique is that its décor is also up for sale. The beach hut meets apartment décor features vintage-inspired pieces including surfboards and vinyl records that are all up for sale as well, giving shoppers a new décor and new items to buy with every visit. - S.I. Oxbow Boutique 31 rue Beaurepaire (10th), 01 40 36 48 80

A fun and colourful collection of 24 watches has been brought out devoted to The Adventures of Tintin, the iconic best-selling series of comic albums by the Belgian author Hergé that has been published in more than 70 languages. The collection, TINTIN®, brings to your wrist the Belgian reporter and adventurer Tintin and his unforgettable companions like Captain Haddock and his faithful dog Snowy, Milou in the original French version. The collection, conceived and distributed by Ice-Watch, explores three of the universes created by Hergé, Tintin in the Land of the Soviets, Destination Moon and a series devoted to the leading characters in the series. The watch dials range in size from 28mm to 44mm and a host of materials are used in the various parts of the watch ranging from steel to leather, supple silicone and nubuck. The Tintin Destination Moon series (pictured here) has a supple silicone bracelet and a metallic tachymeterstyle rim and the backgrounds of the dials sparkle with luminescent “stars”. - P.V. Ice-Watch Boutique 36 rue Vieille du Temple (4th), 01 71 28 94 89 34 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Ice-Watch © Hergé/Moulinsart 2018

Time with Tintin


SHOPPING For Him

Gentlemanly LOOKS

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1 & 8 - Boss, 168 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 56 81 26 90 2 - Jil Sanders, 56 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 44 95 06 70 3 - Dunhill, 15 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 42 61 57 58 4 - Oliver Spencer, available at Le Bon Marché 5 - Salvatore Ferragamo, 46 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 43 12 96 96 6 - Eclectic, 8 rue Charlot (3rd), 01 42 78 00 20 7 - Moreau Paris, 49 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 70 38 77 00 9 - Maison F, 42 rue de Verneuil (7th), 09 52 98 04 65

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Shopping Fashion

Bejewelled Bags Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Joanna Kalinski

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Lanvin bag Chanel Joaillerie My Chain necklace and My Green bracelet Salvatore Ferragamo weekend bag and passport holder Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One watch

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Le Tanneur document holder Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5377 watch

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Verbreuil bag TTF Présent Céleste necklace w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 39


Aïzea wallet Chanel J12 GMT watch 40 W H ER E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018


Printemps bag Ritz Paris by Tasaki Jardin de Roses necklace w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 41


Salvatore Ferragamo backpack Bucherer Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon watch

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Stée bag Rolex Day Date 40 watch Fred Une Ile d’Or cuff bracelet and necklace w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 43


Tod’s suitcase Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore watch

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Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS

Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

BOOKS & MUSIC

FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour

Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIU 46 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

| Jewellery & Watches

Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd),

01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries La Grande Récré - 126 rue La Boétie (8th), 01.42.25.42.42. M° Georges V Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Gresley Paris - 24 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.33.35.81. M° Pyramides Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Ports 1961 - 251 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.35.41. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt

COACH

Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

EYE WEAR

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

FABRICS: COUTURE

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME

Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (14th), 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

| Clothing: Men & Women


SHOPPING

Address Book

JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9 ), th

01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chronopassion - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1rst), 01.42.60.50.72. M° Concorde Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Garel - 17 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.40.04. M° Opéra Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gorky - 18 rue Duphot (1st) , 01.42.60.22.76. M° Concorde Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau

CHOPARD

Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) , 01.47.03.39.99. M° Concorde F.P. Journe - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00, M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Redline Showroom - 161 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.44.64.92.24. M° Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00. M° Concorde Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

LINGERIE Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

LUGGAGE AND BAGS

Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal

| Jewellery & Watches

Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon

Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries

Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde

Kate Lee - 16 rue des Gravilliers (3rd),

01.48.04.57.72. M° Arts et Métiers Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg

Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

REPETTO

| Shoes

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 47


LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

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Philippine Janssens •

• Christie’s

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Hedgren • •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • • • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger Tommy • Coach Hilfiger Alexander McQueen • • Emporio Armani Hackett • • Marc Jacobs Lacoste • • David Morris • • Omega Omega• UL

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48 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara

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14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde - Paris 8 Tel: +33 (1) 44 94 01 74 www.crockettandjones.com

R U E CA ST

MADELEINE

• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •

ULE

• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

Laulhère

Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

BO

RUE DE RIVOLI

• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi • •

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RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

Yohji Yamamoto

CROCKETT & JONES

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Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand presents a wonderful collection for this winter, ranging from boots to formal shoes and including smart derbies, elegantly balanced between casual and traditional styles.

CONCORDE

L ’A R C

••

RUE ROYALE

• Royal Iro Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

SHOP STOP

Ch

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla Vuarnet

•• •

Lanvin

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

SSM

ROQ

RUE DE SURÈNE

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t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

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• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel •Bally •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan U ’A N J O Valentino • • Ermenegildo Zegna RUE D • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Djula • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Crockett Dandys • • Chanel • Boucheron & Jones • Tod’s • • Givenchy SQUIER • RUE PA Cartier • Alessi Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •

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Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

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79 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 42 65 36 26 www.baccarat.fr

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Gringoire Joaillier

Pierre Cardin

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BACCARAT Founded in 1764, Baccarat is the oldest and most famous crystal maker in the world. For over 250 years, Baccarat has been a symbol of excellence in French savoir-faire. Designed by Gilles & Boissier, Baccarat’s Parisian flagship is located in the centre of the luxury shopping neighbourhood and is inspired by a French mansion and a Parisian apartment.

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Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

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•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat • Baccarat • AV

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Galeries •Bartoux

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RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

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SHOP STOP

Bucherer

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch



LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Christofle

CONCORDE

• RUE ROYALE

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

MADELEINE

• Wempe • Lancaster • Kate spade • Tory Burch • Max Mara

Marella

Le Jacquard

• Français

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OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

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Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

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Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

Place des Victoires

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by Terry Xavier Lust

0039 Italy

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

Aïzea

Galerie Vivienne

Musée du Louvre

RUE VIVIENNE

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

rre Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

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Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

ÉR

RUE RICHELIEU

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RUE DE VALOIS Francesco Russo

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

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Galerie de Valois

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ

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Galerie de Montpensier

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

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Printemps du Louvre

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

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• RedLine

Garel

Opéra Garnier

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FreyWille

SHOP STOP

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Garland

RUE DE LA PA IX •

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

Vivienne • Westwood

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Vendôme

•Dodo Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka • •Moynat TUILERIES Jack Russell • Burma • •Stuart Weitzman Ami • • Balenciaga Missoni• • Akillis Kiehl’s• Place du Marché • Saint-Honoré Barbara Rihl •Christian Dior •M.A.C Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • •Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil The Kooples • •Cotélac Carrousel du Louvre

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Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : +33 (0)1 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

DE

Antiquités

Chanel CA MB ON RU E CA MB ON • Max&Moi • • RU E • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • CA MB ON Jamin Hervé • Kiton Messika• • Maison Puech Léger Tommy • Coach • Abriza Morabito• Hilfiger • Alexander McQueen Chloé• • Brioni Ports • •Emporio Armani DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •David Morris Arije Bally • J.M. • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

• Zwilling • Lipault

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OT P H • Gorky

Paris •RU E

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Carel • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

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The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE

DE

WEMPE

• Oliver Grant

VD

• Césaire Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi• Parakian

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

BL

RUE DE RIVOLI

Jeu de Paume

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

Musée de l’Orangerie

Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

Burberry

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP


If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.


LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

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• Cartier

Montblanc

• Swarovski • GrandOptical

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Elysées Joaillerie

• •M.A.C. •Levi’s • Elysées •Tissot Horlogerie • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany La Grande RUE • Récré LA RUE DE PONTHIEU

ANÇO

IS 1 ER

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

AVE

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• Marionnaud Paris

• Eric Bompard• Ellie • Bvlgari • Dubail Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard •Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • EA • • RC A Christofle Creed M Altan Bottier UE • EN • RUE PI •Les Suites • AV Arije • ERRE C Cartier • Kusmi H Givenchy A RRO • EV Tea • N Scabal • GEORG Rolex • Chaumet Dubail E U Beretta N • Cercle E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Arabian • Delacre • Oud • Burma R • Sicis Franck • RUE MARB• • •Tom Ford UE PI •Carvil EUF ERR Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE •Balenciaga RON Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • A TR J.M. Weston • R • Vionnet É U M By Marie&Gas Bijoux EM • • Smalto OILL A E Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain ALMA MARCEAU Karl • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld Zadig&Voltaire• Valentino Caron • • AVENUE• Harry Thomas Pink Giorgio Armani MO Winston • Alaïa N • T NAN Prada • AIGN • Brunello MARIG E Dior • RUE DE Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli • PSG • Joseph• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MON • Givenchy TA Fendi • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe • Van Pucci•• •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Dolce&Gabbana •• Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine ST Dupont IE

RUE

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Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.

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•Adidas Meet the French

• Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

LT EVE OOS D.R

Grand Palais

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RU

ALBERT

52 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

COURS

10 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt – Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 96 06 15 www.espace-weleda.fr

NFÉRENCE

A unique moment in a marvellous place. Weleda, the first organic and natural cosmetic brand, invites you to discover its massages and product line in its wellness space. Enter into the peaceful and natural universe of Weleda with its very contemporary design.

PORT DE LA CO

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SHOP STOP

55 ave des Champs-Élysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 62 26 47 / www.jmweston.com

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NUE

AVE

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AVENUE DE WAGRAM

AVENUE KLÉBER

DOUX

ALILÉ

Place des États-Unis

RUE D

Next July, J.M. Weston opens its new flagship store at 55 avenue des Champs-Elysées. J.M. Weston reaffirms its bond with the most beautiful avenue in the world, where it has sat since 1932. The store was designed by French architect Joseph Dirand, and displays all the shoes and accessories collections of J.M. Weston in a creative 600 m2 space. The largest J.M. Weston store to date, it reveals the architect’s Art Deco inspirations that harken back to the roots and history of the House.

O AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

RUE G

Arc de Triomphe

N

Fabio Caviglia•

GAS BIJOUX

J.M. WESTON

ISTO

AVENUE KLÉBER

Born in Saint-Tropez, Gas Bijoux has been creating solar jewelry for over 45 years, handmade by 80 craftsmen in its Marseille atelier. Today, Gas Bijoux is present in over 25 countries across the globe. 10 rue de Grenelle - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 11 28 26 rue Danielle Casanova - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 97 58 80 8 ave George V - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 23 88 00 www.gasbijoux.com

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AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

SHOP STOP

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LUXURY MAP Vendôme

SHOP STOP Gare Saint-Lazare

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE

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J.M. Weston•

• Max&Moi

Bucherer Tag Heuer Montblanc

L’Occitane

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•Zwilling

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Golfino • •Loding

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

• • • IKKS •Gant • • Bally

• Camper Boggi • •Lancel BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty GR

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Waskoll A. Lange • & Söhne • Marvella A • C Repetto • E Poiray U Garland R Corthay Y • Christofle • • Harrison Cartier • OLNE Piaget • Diesel V • Yumi Katsura Hugo Boss • E • Bodum • IX • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Dinh Van • A Alexander McQueen • L •Fred Louis Vuitton • • UE DE• Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier R • Jaquet Droz Dubail Dior Bvlgari • Anshindo • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House • Tasaki• • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU Hublot • • ST Breguet • RU • Patek Philippe Place du Marché Zadig & ED • Dior FreyWille • ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia MP Montagut • S Dodo Courteille • RU Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba • Tourist ON • • Balenciaga Arije T - T Paule Ka Office HA Akillis • BO • PYRAMIDES RUE R • • • Jovoy TH Missoni ÉR Christian Dior • M.A.C ÈSE Ami • • •Frank Namani • Bonpoint Gorky Antiquités

C AP

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12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

RU

GL

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BUCHERER PARIS In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

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SHOP STOP

ADOR

Sephora

RU

1 rue Volney - Paris 2nd Tel: +33(0) 1 42 61 08 89 www.corthay.com

Opéra Garnier

Mario Dessuti•

RUE

Savoir-faire, knowledge and French heritage are the hallmarks of contemporary shoemaker Corthay. The house was founded in 1990 by master craftsman Pierre Corthay who was honoured with the Maître d’Art distinction by the French Minister of Culture. The Maison Corthay embodies French knowhow in the art and craft of bootmaking be it inside its Parisian workshop or in its own manufacture in the heart of the Mauges region of France.

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

CAUM

RUE

HUR

Fragonard

RUE

CORTHAY

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

RUE BOUDREA U

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MADELEINE Église de la Madeleine

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SHOP STOP

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RUE DE

VICTOIRE

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Printemps Beauté-Maison HAVRE- • Guerlain • CAUMARTIN

RUE MOG ADOR

E D E LA

Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Mode T

E

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

Printemps Homme

RUE

RU E DU HA VR

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

Galeries du Diamant •

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 53


LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

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Moissonnier AC

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Buly 1803 • TE

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Institut de France

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• Poltrona

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TS-P

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Atelier Valentin

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54 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

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VÉ RI

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L’A R DE

Montparnasse

• Rive Gauche

MONTPARNASSE-BIENVENÜE

Tikibou Toy Store B V DE DG A

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IR A R D

Jardins du Luxembourg

RUE DE TOURNON

• IUNX

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RUE PRI NCE SSE

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Église Saint-Sulpice

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ARN

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NES

NTP

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RUE DES CANETTES

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33 blvd Edgar Quinet - Paris 14 Tel: +33 (0)1 43 20 98 79 20 ave Félix Faure - Paris 15th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 58 17 44 www.tikibou.fr

th

BVD

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TIKIBOU TOY STORE

RU

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

CH

E-M

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RUE BON APAR TE

RUE MA DAM E

RUE

RUE DE LA CH

DE R

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• Guerlain • Wolford

S PA IL ARD RA

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The oldest toy store in Paris where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites including Tintin, model cars, music boxes... There is a wonderful and fun selection for young and old alike, including a fine choice of scale models.

• Fabrice

DU

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SHOP STOP

RU

11 rue de l’Arrivée - Paris 15th www.montparnasserivegauche.com

OB

Poiray • Liu Jo BO Christian U • Façonnable L • E VA RUE U CI Louboutin Stella • DE L Louis RD RUE DE B • ’A B SAI • • Agent Luna Etro • Vuitton B AY N Camper T E • -GE Provocateur • Sonia • • RM Brunello • AIN Rykiel Moncler • Cucinelli Burberry Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Smith Voyeurs • Lauren • Paul Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Ami Maison Armani BOU • • Lejaby• • LEV • De Fursac L.K. ARD Cartier • Y’s SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON Crockett & Jones • Hackett• Montblanc • Kenzo• • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Eskandar Saint Laurent• Gas Bijoux L’Ibis Rouge • • OUR • DU F Liu Jo • RUE Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi Dot-Drops • • Djula • U FOUR Alain Mikli • La Perla• D Durance RUE M.A.C.• • • Repetto Le Mont Omega S Saint Michel Berluti • • ÉVRE S E Saint D • • • E U RUE DE BABYLONE • R Agnès b Lancaster Laurent Longines Camper • • SU LP IC E T• Frey Wille IN • SA SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp RUE • • Hermès • Capel Clergerie Eres • • ULPICE -S SAINT-SULPICE Zadig ST E U R Le Bon •Lise Loxwood & Voltaire ES Charmel • Marché S É V R DE • • Il Bisonte

S PA IL ARD RA

Montparnasse Rive Gauche is a premier destination for a great shopping and dining experience. In the heart of Paris enjoy the famous retailers such as Galeries Lafayette, C&A, Nature & Découvertes, Lacoste... At the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower at the visit panoramic.

EJ AC

Faienceries • de Gien

RUE BON A PA

BOULEV

MONTPARNASSE RIVE GAUCHE

RU

• R TE

RUE

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• John Lobb Gallais • Bang • & Olufsen AI NT Edward Green • -G Zadig & Voltaire Roche Bobois• ER MA Cinna • • Karl Lagerfeld IN • • Aubercy EV

RU E MA ZAR INE

JLC Opticien RUE DU BAC

SAIN

ÉRES

SHOP STOP

RU E DE SEI NE

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Gérard • Darel

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Ofée . • Maje • Atelier Cologne • Hartwood • Deyrolle The Kooples

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7 rue Princesse, Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0) 1 43 26 10 10 / www.eskandar.com

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Eskandar is a luxury ready-to-wear brand offering collections that combine elegance and sophistication in an unstructured and comfortable style. Clothes made of noble, luxurious materials, cashmere, silk and linen. A confidential unique place hidden in the heart of Saint-Germain des Près.

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Musée d’Orsay

Parfums

Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug


LUXURY MAP Le Marais

SHOP STOP

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Centre Pompidou

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Nice• • Louis Quatorze Eclectic • Things Vanessa Bruno Musée National •Mr • Bonastre •Fred Picasso Marzo • Les Petites • Le Mont • Saint Michel Magnanni • La Fée Maraboutée RU E DE S 4 • FI LS

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Fred P Le C erry reus et

RUE PAVEE

AGNE

RUE SAINT-PAUL

RUE GEOFFROY L'ASNIER

PONT MARIE

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

RUE DU TEMPLE

RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

ARLEM

Village Saint Paul

Mémorial de la Shoah

Melodies • • Graphiques • Calligrane

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•Pierre Boisset • Psyché

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Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier

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Place des Vosges

Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch MAC

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HOTEL DE VILLE

i Parma Acqua d tyque Dip in Guerla

Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol Hartford Les Mille Feuilles • Marionnaud Paris • RUE • Emile Lafaurie DES FRAN Chanel Penhaligon’s CS BOURGE • OI S • • Carhartt • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Fragonard • RUE DES Repetto • • FRANCS BO • • Ted Baker URGEOIS Muji • • •Mademoiselle ••• Iro • Jeanne Michael • • • Essentiel Kors Uniqlo Aubade •• • Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston Eres Ekyog• •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX • IZIPIZI Bimba y Lola Maison • • • Devernois • Francis Kurkdjian Maje • Créa Concept • • • Paule Ka L’Argenterie Wolford • R U E D• Cos ES R O SI de Turenne Lipault ER • • S • Heschung• • • Moustaches Thomas All Saints RUE DU PLATRE • Cire • Gavilane RUE• DE JARENTE Sabo El Ganso Huygens Sandro• • Trudon Masha • • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE K.Jacques •Carven Keja •Ugg • Thierry • Gucci• •John Galliano • Fleux Lacoste • Mode en Alain Villenave Nike RUE D'ORMESSON Karl Mikli • Givenchy Crockett •Lagerfeld •DE SICILE • Demeure •Maje Le BHV Marais • Moncler • & Jones • RUE DU ROI • l’Homme Chevignon TO IN E AN T• • Fendi • IN • RU E SA RUE DE LA VERRERI E Caron Paraboot MX • SAINT-PAUL • UE DE RIVOLI Bapestore R Finsbury • I L • IVO Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier RUE DE R • • RIVOLI MA

56/58 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd 28 rue du Temple - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 74 50 05 www.emilelafaurie.com

Gloss

MA

Customellow •

RUE

EMILE LAFAURIE

• Merci • OUX Oska • UX CH Ami • Atelier NT A • • Lords&Fools U PO D French E U SAINT-SÉBASTIEN R Cologne • Sandro• Trotters FROISSART • Camper Robinson • ITOU • Kenzo Christophe • DE PO Les Bains A U D E• Lemaire RUE • Saint James •-CL • Pas de Jack Gomme • A I N T Calais • APC S E U Marcel by R Wooyoungmi Weekday• •

Florian Denicourt

RUE DE

Founded in 1992 in Paris, men’s contemporary fashion designer, Emile Lafaurie, is the go-to lifestyle brand for impeccably tailored clothes and contemporary casual gear for today's man. Known for signature pieces like the painter coat, the designer specializes in fine fabrics and a refined color palette.

APC

E

SHOP STOP

Nicolaï

T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse • Le Labo grenouille

Maison

• Kitsune • Melinda

ENN

18 rue du Pont Louis Philippe - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)7 68 47 10 44 www.psyche-paris.com

S

White Bird • Bonton•

TUR

PSYCHÉ This charming boutique is located in the heart of the historic Marais district. Owner Chantal Clavreuil has carefully selected both confirmed and emerging French and international designers creating fine contemporary jewellery and offering one of a kind, highly inspired pieces.

UD RI ET TE

• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty • Pierre Meurgey

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Le Slip Français

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Popelini •

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État Libre d'Orange Paul Smith

FILLES DU CALVAIRE

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BV

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Liquides • April 77

EN UR E T E D

Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.

AG NE

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Empreintes RU E DE BR ET

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LOUIS QUATORZE

106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

DU P

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RUE DU TEMPLE

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RUE DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE QUAI DES CÉLESTINS

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 55


The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti

Photo © Aleksandar Pertemov

Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours

Heterotopia décor installation for AD Interieurs 2013 by Ramy Fischler whose work is being presented at Maison&Objet (page 62) 56 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018


ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Pierre & Gilles, Zahia, 2017, Impression numérique et sérigraphie à 25 exemplaires signée et numérotée par l’artiste, 120 x 95 cm © Pierre & Gilles . Pablo Picasso Les Trois Danseuses ou La Danse Paris, 1925 Huile sur toile 215,3 x 142,2 cm, Tate Gallery, Londres, achat en 1965, T00729 © Succession Picasso 2018

Exhibitions

Art for All There is the colourful world of Pierre and Gilles, a not so boisterous whimsical band by Art Spiegelman and intriguing flower leaves from Barthélémy Toguo. These are just some of the 70 art prints that are being presented and made available for sale by the art publisher MEL at Artcurial. The prints, by some 40 artists, are brought out in generally 35 numbered and signed by the artist limited editions and are priced so as to be accessible to all. MEL was founded by MichelEdouard Leclerc and Natalia Olzoeva-Leclerc and its goal is to promote and render accessible the works of contemporary artists. During the exhibition Leclerc, the president of the Leclerc supermarket chain, will sell his personal copies of each work published by MEL with the proceeds being donated to the Recherche sur Alzheimer Fondation (Foundation for Alzheimer Research). The limited edition art prints will remain available in Artcurial’s art library throughout the year. - P.V. Exhibition showing from September 17th through to September 20th 7 rond-point des Champs-Elyséees (8th), 01 42 99 20 20

Picasso: The Masterpieces What does masterpiece mean for Pablo Picasso? The Musée National Picasso-Paris aims to answer this question through a major and exceptional exhibition entitled Picasso. Masterpiece!, which brings together his master works some of which are being shown in Paris for the first time. Exceptional loans from collections around the world are juxtaposed with the works of the Picasso-Paris museum whose exceptional archives also play a focal role in the show as reviews and critiques of the works are displayed along with them and which contributed to their status of masterpiece. Several of Picasso’s famous Harlequins are on hand, retaining the costume and melancholic poses in each version, there are the monumental bathers, and the dancers are being exhibited as well through an exceptional loan from the Tate in London. Conferences, film projections and performances round out the agenda. - P.V. Showing from September 4th through to January 13th 5 rue de Thorigny (3rd), 01 85 56 00 36 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 57


GALERIE TAMÉNAGA IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

MODERN MASTERS: Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet... CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano, Yoshikawa...

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com

Wonderful Worlds The Parcours des Mondes, the largest international show devoted to the tribal arts, is being held for the 17th time this year offering a journey into the diversity of the arts of Africa, the Americas, Asia and Oceania. The event offers a showcase for exceptional pieces from dozens of galleries and exhibitors from around the world while featuring thematic exhibitions ranging from major works shown at the landmark Galerie du Théâtre Pigalle exhibition held in 1930 and which was instrumental in developing interest in tribal arts to several shows revolving around magic and the supernatural. The thematic shows include masks of Asia, an encounter with the arts of the peoples of Siberia and the representation of the supernatural in Japanese arts. The exhibitions are hosted in and by art galleries throughout the Beaux-Arts quarter of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood. - P.V. From September 11th through to September 16th Participating galleries are found on the rues des Beaux-Arts, Bonaparte, de Seine, Jacques Callot, Mazarine, Guénégaud, Saint Benoît, Visconti et de l’Echaudé.

58 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Kapil Jariwala Gallery, Londres SHRINATHJI PICHHAVAI REPRÉSENTANT UN DAUJI SUR SCÈNE (détail) Nathdwara, Rajasthan, Inde Vers 1750-1780 Pigment et toile d’argent sur tissu 191 x 251 cm © Kapil Jariwala Gallery, London, Photography : Mark Colliton

Exhibition: New Era of Japan III Date: 20 September - 20 October


OPERA GALLERY AT LA BIENNALE PARIS 8TH - 16TH SEPTEMBER 2018 BOOTH A28

Fernand Léger, Les deux couteaux, 1949. Oil on canvas, 50 x 65 cm

CHU TEH-CHUN NIKI DE SAINT PHALLE JEAN DUBUFFET ALBERTO GIACOMETTI KEITH HARING HANS HARTUNG FERNAND LÉGER GEORGES MATHIEU PABLO PICASSO PIERRE SOULAGES MANOLO VALDÉS TOM WESSELMANN

62 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris | + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 | paris@operagallery.com | operagallery.com New York Miami Aspen London Paris Monaco Geneva Zurich Dubai Beirut Hong Kong Singapore Seoul


ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

Drawing Words The Japanese Cultural Institute in Paris is hosting a retrospective devoted to one of the major figures of avant-garde art in Japan, the master of calligraphy Yu-ichi Inoue. The show, entitled Yu-ichi Inoue, 1916-1985 - Calligraphy Unbound, brings together 76 works in five segments to view the various periods in the highly prolific career of this artist while giving the public a fine opportunity to discover the art of calligraphy. A teacher by training, Inoue turned to calligraphy in 1941 and would create with friends the Bokujinkai group, which was devoted to art but also debates and positions held by artists in the domains of art, philosophy and literature. He would correspond with numerous artists in the East and West, notably the great French contemporary artist Pierre Soulages. The show is being held within the Japonismes 2018 cultural programme put into place in honour of the 160th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Japan and France. - P.V.

Fly Me Over Paris Discover Paris in a totally new, unique and intriguing way with FlyView, which enables you to see Paris in virtual reality onboard a jetpack and equipped with a virtual reality helmet. The visit reveals a 360-degree view over the French capital and its monuments during an exhilarating 13-minute low-flying tour that takes you to 20 monuments including an ascent inside the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame from gargoyle to gargoyle, the Place de la Concorde viewed from above its fountains and a spectacular flight over the Seine to the sound of the voice of Edith Piaf. Visitors are welcomed into the terminal in the heart of Paris where the take-off area is located grouping together 50 jetpack simulators, which take you on your way to this spectacular flying journey. - P.V. 30 rue du 4 Septembre (2nd), 01 83 62 12 36 60 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Yu-ichi Inoue, Ai (Amour), 1972, collection privée, © UNAC TOKYO photo : Tokio Ito ; © Flyview Paris

Showing through to September 15th 101 bis Quai Branly (15th), 01 44 37 95 00


ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Rising Talent Award Winner Paola Sakr’s Impermanence piece at Maison&Objet Photo © Carl Halal; Rising Talent Award Winner Studio Caramel’s Indolente armchair at Maison&Objet Photo © Aishti; Haviland set by Victoria Wilmotte at Paris Design Week; Trio de Parcours /Allied Maker’s Aperture Table Lamp at Paris Design Week

Exhibitions

Clockwise from top left: Rising Talent Award Winner Paola Sakr’s Impermanence piece at Maison&Objet; Rising Talent Award Winner Studio Caramel’s Indolente armchair at Maison&Objet; Haviland set by Victoria Wilmotte at Paris Design Week; Triode Parcours /Allied Maker’s Aperture Table Lamp at Paris Design Week

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Driving DESIGN

esign is on the agenda with two major events coming to town this month, the Maison&Objet professional trade show and Paris Design Week held in various venues in the Parisian capital.

Maison&Objet is a major home decor faire

bringing together some 3000 brands in international interior design and lifestyle. The four sections in the Home part of the show are devoted to arts and craft pieces, luxury brands, unique decorative objects from all over the world and the contemporary lifestyle. The seven Object sectors reveal smart objects, kitchen and tableware, linens, home and fashion accessories and home fragrances. Each year the show hosts its Inspirations Forum and Bookshop-Café in which experts analyse new consumer trends and present them under a broad theme, this year the theme and that of the show is Virtuous. The forum aims to shed light on the diverse and cross industry trends that impact the market and shape the future. The fair also aims to be a leading platform for young designers by giving them a chance to exhibit their work to professionals from all over the world. This year the show’s Rising Talents Awards showcases the work of six emerging Lebanese designers who were chosen by a sevenmember jury. The trade show also offers an

opportunity to see the works of the Designer of the Year who this year is Ramy Fischler, a Belgian-born Paris-based designer whose work is generally influenced by the cinema. Meanwhile, Paris Design Week offers a celebration of design, decoration and the art of living held in 200 showrooms, boutiques, galleries, workshops, restaurants and institutions throughout the city. The Ground Control venue in the Gare de Lyon-Daumesnil neighbourhood will welcome Le Off, dedicated to 40 young designers, and will also host the event’s Talks in which designers and people involved in the world of design converse on various themes in the field. The Rado Star Prize is also being held during Paris Design Week for the sixth time offering a platform for young and emerging designers. This year the theme is Design Inspired by Nature and the work of the 10 finalists and winner will be presented at Le Off in the Ground Control venue with the jury prize this year attributed to Jean-Baptiste Durand for his Mist Lamp. Paris Design Week will also be presenting, in conjunction with Maison&Objet, in Hall 6 of the trade show a space dedicated to the former winners of the Rising Talents awards and the Rado Star Prize. The exhibition, entitled Born and Raised, brings together 21 French and international designers presenting their latest

creations. - P.V. Maison&Objet (professionals only)

Showing from September 7th through to September 11th www.maison-objet.com Parc des Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte Paris Design Week

Showing from September 6th through to September 15th Le Off

Showing from September 5th through to September 9th Ground Control

Halle Charolais, 81 rue du Charolais (12th) For a full list of venues, you can visit www.maison-objet.com/en/paris-design-week


ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

A soulful event is on the agenda on the grounds of an elegant castle nestled amidst the greenery of the Natural Park of the Haut Vallée de Chevreuse. The Motors and Soul Festival brings together cars and motorcycles with character, rides out into the surrounding scenic countryside, art and crafts exhibitions, a showroom presenting new vehicles, two style competitions, a food court, live music and a space for children’s games. Three themes are on offer to discover the roads of the Chevreuse Valley, the Scenic Routes, the Curvy Routes and the Zen Routes. No less than 16 rides and short journeys are on the agenda and for those who wish to use their own vehicle road books are available. This year Motors and Soul is honouring, with an exhibition, the iconic film Bullitt, which was released 50 years ago and features one of the greatest chase scenes in the movies. - P.V. September 8th & 9th Château et Relais de Neuville 22 rue de Laverdy, Gambais 78950

Lovely in Lace Lace in high fashion is being showcased in an exhibition at the Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode in Calais, focusing in on lace that is woven on traditional Leavers looms, a specialty of this region of France. Entitled Haute Couture et Dentelle (High Fashion and Lace) the show looks at how contemporary designers use lace in fashion through a selection of 60 dresses from the latest couture and ready-to-wear shows of the designers. Each piece of clothing demonstrates the fusion between the best of the machine-made and the hand-made while paying a tribute to lace, an exceptional but not very well-known material. The show aims to reveal how the creators have used lace as food for thought. Exceptional pieces have been selected from 13 houses including Alberta Ferretti, Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Iris van Herpen, Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela, Schiaparelli, Valentino, Viktor&Rolf, Yiqing Yin and Zuhair Murad. - P.V. Showing through to January 6th 135 Quai du Commerce, 62100 Calais, 03 21 00 42 30 62 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Motors & Soul Festival, Photo © Christophe Batut. . Dress with flounced tiers of tulle and Chantilly Leavers lace, Haute couture spring-summer, 2017 collection, Caducité model, CHRISTIAN DIOR Couture, [SOLSTISS lace] © DIOR

On the Road Again


ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

Clockwise from top left: Rita Hayworth circa 1940, Octopus brooch by Roger Jean-Pierre circa 1960, Chanel necklace circa 1980 and brooch by Lucien Lelong with musicians circa 1940

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A Show of Sound and Light

brooch of three musicians by Lucien Lelong, hammered cuff bracelets from Yves Saint Laurent, a saxophone pin, thick entwined chains by Chanel, and a whimsical dancing octopus. These are just some of the pieces on display on the edge of town drawing parallels between music and jewellery. Vintage jewel expert and collector Olwen Forest is presenting an intriguing and melodious selection of jewellery in an exhibition entitled Rock, Rap & Rhythm, tracing the relationship between jewellery and music from Fred Astaire to Pharrell Williams. The show presents a sparkling and a surprisingly sound-filled world of jewellery that you can seemingly listen to.

favour thick chains around the neck and on the wrists while Jok’Rambo sports medallions in the shape of elephant heads and Slick Rick wears chains and rings of unimaginable sizes. - P.V. From September 1st Sat from 9:30am to 5:30pm, Sun from 10:30am to 5:30pm & Mon from 11am-4pm Puces of Saint-Ouen, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, allée 3-stands 5, 6 & 7 01 40 11 96 38

Jewellery and Rita Hayworth Photos © Frédéric Poletti; Olwen Forest Photo © Astrid di Crollanza

The show takes a look at jewellery worn by the stars in the Golden Age of Hollywood. Of note are the long necklaces that were worn by Rita Hayworth, which seemed to jingle as they brushed past one another or the jazz inspired jewellery in which gilded balls and disks bumped into one another creating their very own sound as worn by the actress Ann Sheridan. French designers drew on music, too, explains Olwen Forest. In the 1930s, Lucien Lelong designed a gilded brooch in the shape of sheet music with a few notes, just like the start of a melody, and charms representing a trio of musicians with their musical instruments. Music also served as a source of inspiration at the house of Lanvin, which created a bracelet with charms in the shape of musical instruments and Yves Saint Laurent fashioned a pair of gilded cuff bracelets hammered like drums and ornamented with picks as if to announce the punk rebellion that was then on the horizon. And there is his sequinned brooch in the shape of a champagne glass that sparkles, shines and almost lets you hear the delicate sound of the bubbles. Olwen Forest also showcases the stars of pop, punk and rock in the exhibition ranging from Janis Joplin, an enthusiast of long necklaces and ethnic bracelets to Madonna and her famous crosses. Rappers, too, explains Olwen Forest, have a penchant for jewellery, like Pharrell Williams, who sports on stage or in private vintage sautoirs by Chanel and the “humming” brooches of Joseff of Hollywood. Eric B & Rakim w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 63


ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

ARC DE TRIOMPHE The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-11pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

CATHEDRALE DE LA SAINTE-TRINITE This Russian Orthodox cathedral is located in the

Arc de Triomphe 64 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Russian Orthodox spiritual and cultural centre. Its five smooth gold onion domes covered in 90,000 leaves of gold are topped by Russian orthodox crosses with the highest standing at over 36 metres. Daily 2pm-7pm, guided tours 12-7pm. 1 Quai Branly (7th). M° Alma-Marceau

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

EIFFEL TOWER

Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10-25€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s

La Conciergerie

Eiffel Tower

Photos iStock 2017 : View © Maria Pavlova; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy

The view from the Notre-Dame


ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Photos iStock 2017 : Luxembourg Garden © Kenneth Wiedemann; Notre-Dame Cathedral © Deejpilot; Opéra Palais Garnier © www.jaspe.info; Panthéon © Vitaly Edush; Place des Vosges © Full Nikada; Pont des Arts / Institute of France © Jacob Thue; Sacré-Coeur © Octav Dragan; Sainte-Chapelle © dennisvdw ;Tuileries Garden © Consu1961

Monuments

Luxembourg Garden

LUXEMBOURG GARDEN This lovely garden with tranquil walkways, superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. It is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two. Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité

Panthéon

Picasso et la danse, explores the artist’s relationship to dance through works and documents. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.paris-pantheon.fr 6 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. M° Cardinal-Lemoine

Sacré-Coeur

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan-Mar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

Place des Vosges

PLACE DES VOSGES

Notre-Dame Cathedral

One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert

Sainte Chapelle

THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Through to Sept 16

Pont des Arts

PONT DES ARTS

Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris

This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians. Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand (1st).

The Tuileries Garden w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 65


Address Book

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr AREAS & MARKETS Paris Flea Market

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Carré Rive Gauche

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

ATTRACTIONS Académie Équestre de Versailles

Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Atelier des Lumières

A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Galerie Tamenaga

Catacombes de Paris

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

FRANCE MINIATURE | Attractions 66 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Canal Saint-Martin

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way

FLYVIEW | Attractions

visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). M° Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), M° Quai de la Gare

FlyView

Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd). M° Opéra

France Miniature

This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature. The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Attractions, educational tools and a restaurant offering regional specialties round out the agenda. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

Grande Arche

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop are


ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

all on the agenda. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

La Mer de Sable

Located in an exceptional natural setting, this adventure-filled park offers a fine day out for the whole family with 30 attractions and a host of fun activities. There are four major shows including two featuring horses, encounters with animals, themed restaurants and the park is less than an hour from Paris. 60950 Ermenonville. From Paris take the North Autoroute A1, direction Ermenonville then take exit 7

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Asterix

This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).

Parc Zoologique de Paris

cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

DAY TRIPS Château de Fontainebleau

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Rex Studios

Château de Versailles

Travel into the heart of cinema in this iconic theatre for a unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. The venue offers fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family where one and all can take on the roles of alternatively actor, spectator or even director. 5 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.40. M° Bonne Nouvelle

BOAT CRUISES Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water

Rex Studios ©Thomas Laconis

SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

GARDENS Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

GUIDED TOURS L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

PARIS

IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY

www.parismap.fr REX STUDIOS | Attractions w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 67


ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07

MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Dali Paris

In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Institut Giacometti

This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. M° Raspail

10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Sun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, archives, cameras and costumes. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy

La Maison de Victor Hugo

This museum located in a splendid private mansion on the Place des Vosges is devoted to the French writer, statesman and artist Victor Hugo who once lived there. The museum’s collections include drawings by Victor Hugo, manuscripts, statues and paintings as well as photographs and furnishings. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 6 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.72.10.16. M° Saint-Paul

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

Musée Cernuschi

MAD

Musée Cognacq-Jay

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Mona Bismarck American Center

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée des Arts et Métiers

Institut du Monde Arabe

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. Tue-

LA CINÉMATHÈQUE FRANÇAISE | Museums & Foundations 68 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. TueSun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/ Boissière

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

MUSÉE GRÉVIN | Museums & Foundations


ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Musée Marmottan Monet

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm,

Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

Musée Yves Saint Laurent

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Musée du Vin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest

MUSÉE DE MONTMARTRE & JARDINS RENOIR | Museums & Foundations

This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte

This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique

This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin

11 Conti - Monnaie de Paris

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

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The Guide

DINING

Dine in alfresco-style at La Cour Jardin (page 72)

70 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

Plaza Athénée - La Cour Jardin © Jacques Pepion

French Fare | Seafood | Asian Cuisine | Dining Al Fresco | French Delicacies


DINING

Restaurants

A New Table on the Block The 11th arrondissement of eastern Paris continues to be the city’s most dynamic incubator of gastronomic talent, because rents are affordable and the young local residents like going out. This is why the neighbourhood is so popular with chefs like amiable Australian Peter Orr, who previously cooked at the popular Au Passage and who has now opened Robert, a stylish but low-key restaurant in an old shop with exposed rafters, a beautiful open kitchen and flea-market furniture. The menu changes regularly but is prepared with carefully chosen seasonal produce, much of it organic, and it’s consistently cosmopolitan and inventive. Standout dishes of a recent meal here included a succulent terrine of rabbit and pork with pickled vegetables, seared octopus wrapped in Lardo di Colonnata on a bed of borlotti beans with a parsley purée, monkfish with cubed and roasted celeriac in a sweet celery sauce, and a superb dessert of rice pudding with grapefruit segments served with an intriguing quenelle of toasted-rice flavoured ice-cream. The excellent wine list includes some forty different organic and natural wines. – Alexander Lobrano Robert 32 rue de la Fontaine au Roi (11th), 01 43 57 20 29

Robert © Caspar S. MIskin; La Lorraine Paris 2018 ® Yann Deret

A Seafood Icon Just before its 100th birthday, one of the most venerable brasseries in Paris has just gotten a stunning new décor that reflects its seafood-focused new menu. Open daily, La Lorraine offers a variety of different seating options, from quiet banquette tables in niches to a large terrace with views over the Place des Ternes. Arriving, there’s a gorgeous mosaic floor of swimming fish in front of the stand piled with crushed ice and seafood where the ecailleur prepares the gorgeous trays of impeccably fresh shellfish and crustaceans for which this address has long been well-known. Marine-themed murals ornament the walls of the dining room, along with objects that create a chic fifties retro atmosphere. Beyond shellfish, start with sautéed baby squid with Chorizo, fish soup, snails or roasted langoustines, and then tuck into a grilled sole, salmon or tuna tartare, Scottish salmon with a saffron beurre blanc, chicken roasted with morels mushrooms or a steak. Don’t miss the crêpes with Grand Marnier or the excellent millefeuille for dessert, and service here is charming and convivial. – A.L. La Lorraine 2 Place des Ternes (8th), 01 56 21 22 00 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 71


DINING

Restaurants

Alfresco Dinners With the end of summer nearing all we dream of doing is prolonging the bliss of warm summer nights with the slight breeze caressing us as we enjoy a glass of chilled wine, and the chic remedy to cure us of the end of summer blues is an alfresco dinner at La Cour Jardin at the Plaza Athénée. The ephemeral restaurant, which closes its doors for the year at the end of this month, is one of the most charming, and famous, addresses in the French capital. The seasonal restaurant, which opens annually from May through to September, is nestled in the heart of the hotel’s courtyard, and it is magical, with its hanging garden, signature red awnings and flowers, and elegant service. This year chef Mathieu Emeraud has put together the perfect summer menu with dishes including a tangy and creamy artichoke and lemon risotto, chilled blue lobster refreshed with crushed coriander, and Alain Ducasse’s signature cookpot of vegetables, a medley of wild mushrooms, baby potatoes and green asparagus. The hotel’s pastry chef Angelo Musa has also created a sweet dessert menu with interesting pairings including the chocolate and black cardamom delight served with a drizzle of tobacco liqueur. – S.I. La Cour Jardin Plaza Athénée Hotel 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 67 65 97

With addresses in the 8th, 15th, 16th and 17th arrondissements of Paris, along with suburban Boulogne-Billancourt, DS Café is a great choice for anyone who wants a light, healthy and delicious meal expediently and without spending a lot of money. This appealing cluster of restaurants was founded fifteen years ago by gastro entrepreneur David Banet, who saw that there was unmet demand for healthy eating, including vegetarian and vegan dishes, in Paris. The latest DS Café is strategically located in the Beaugrenelle quarter of the 15th arrondissement a few minutes from the Eiffel Tower, and the group recently launched a new menu that highlights the idea that healthy eating can also be gastronomic. In addition to a tempting offer of salads, sandwiches and veggie bowls, DS Café is proposing a tuna poke bowl, a Hawaiian favourite prepared with tuna, quinoa, and baby spinach leaves in a Wasabi spiked dressing, a delicious riff on the classic Caesar salad, an open-faced sandwich of bread from Paris’s famous Poilâne bakery garnished with avocado, mango and sashimi tuna, and piadinas, or flat grilled Italian-style sandwiches with various garnishes. Finish up with some cheesecake with red-fruit coulis, an acai bowl or maybe a crêpe. And if you’re traveling and want to avoid mediocre train or plane food, you can order online to organize a takeaway meal. – A.L. DS Café 15 16 rue Linois (15th), 01 42 27 07 93 72 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

Cour Jardin © Niall Clutton

Fine and Healthy Cuisine


WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Confidential Class

A

LE CLARENCE

remarkable journey into the French lifestyle and the French art of dining awaits within Le Clarence, which is ensconced in a private beautifully appointed 19th century mansion that has been fully restored and decorated by the finest of craftsmen. Within, one finds a gourmet Michelin two-starred restaurant, Le Clarence, a superb wine shop, La Cave du Château, private dining and meeting rooms as well as a cosy bar in a lovely living room setting that is reserved exclusively for the clients of the restaurant. Le Clarence is located in the heart of the Golden Triangle in a magnificent private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon that was built in 1884 by the architect Henri Parent. The mansion was restored and decorated under the supervision of HRH Prince Robert of Luxembourg who wanted to reproduce in Paris the unique atmosphere of the Château HautBrion, the family’s wine estate, the Domaine Clarence Dillon, which produces premier cru classé wines in the Bordeaux region. The talented chef Christophe Pelé manages Le Clarence restaurant, which was awarded two Michelin stars in 2017. His innovative cuisine, grounded in French gastronomy, revolves around the finest of seasonal ingredients. There is no menu but

dishes that have been carefully created here include line caught sea bass with fresh bottarga, almond butter, anchovy and capers. To enhance the cuisine, the superb wine list features more than a thousand prestigious or confidential selections that illustrate the variety and complexity of the winegrowing regions of France. Before or after a meal guests can enjoy the bar and the Grand Salon located on the second floor of the mansion, which offer perfect venues for a refreshing sparkling aperitif or an after-dinner drink, or a discovery of wild cherry juice, a tradition at Haut-Brion. Meanwhile, La Cave du Château is an elegant boutique devoted to fine and exceptional wines. The boutique carries not only precious vintages from the vineyards of the Domaine Clarence Dillon, but also a careful selection of the finest grand crus and spirits that France has to offer. For an exceptional experience, the house also has three beautifully appointed private rooms that can be booked for events, work meetings and business lunches or dinners. The restaurant is open from Tuesday evening to Saturday for lunch and dinner. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th) 01 82 82 10 10 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 73


DINING

Restaurants

In the Mood for Asian Cuisine… Just off the Champs-Elysées, one of the most elegant Chinese restaurants in Paris is the work of Madame Ly, whose family has been in the gastronomic professions for four generations. This gracious dining room with good lighting, widely spaced tables, crystal chandeliers, potted orchids and alert and courteous service is a fine choice for anyone who loves Asian food, because the menu offers Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese dishes, all of which are of excellent quality. Unlike most Asian restaurants in Paris, Chez Ly also has a very distinguished wine list. Begin with some seafood soup, an Asian-style salad, maybe of jellyfish for the adventurous, or some dim sum, and follow with steamed prawns with black bean sauce, beef filet with onions, Szechuan-style roast lamb, or sole with pepper sauce. – A.L. Chez Ly 8 rue Lord Byron (8th), 01 45 63 88 68

Albeit while in Paris French cuisine is always sought and savoured, at times visitors look for a culinary break and one restaurant to be recommended when looking for something quite different from French fare is Thiou. The Thai restaurant, in the chic 7th arrondissement, a stone’s throw away from the golden dome of the Invalides, is chef Thiou’s eponymous table, where in sophisticated neutrals and graphic lines a chic décor invites the colourful dishes to take centre stage. Using only fresh produce, the chef brings each dish to life with a pinch of spice and tang thanks to the traditional Thai herbs she expertly uses. On the menu you will find a fresh artichoke salad dressed with a tangy lime sauce and topped with crispy artichoke chips, a spicy green curry with tender chicken, and of course Thiou’s signature Crying Tiger beef steak served with a refreshing carrot and green papaya salad seasoned with lime and lemongrass. – S.I. Thiou 94 blvd de la Tour Maubourg (7th), 01 76 21 78 84 74 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

hiou © Didier Delmas

Time for Thai


WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Last call for

DJAKARTA BALI I

n the heart of Paris, in the neighbourhood of the Louvre, which is in constant transformation and just a stone’s throw from where the Pinault collection will reside, one finds the Djakarta Bali, which represents, with talent, the gastronomy of Indonesia. With objects from Java, Sumatra, Bali and other gems from the archipelago, like the teak furniture and the lava stonewalls, the sound of the gamelan and the fragrance of white flowers, you are transported instantaneously to Indonesia! In an elegant, flamboyant setting the ambience is perfect for contemplation, cosy lunch and romantic dinner. TRADITION IN MODERNITY The culinary recipes are prepared authentically with fresh products and spices from the archipelago: curcuma, galangga, ginger and lemon grass whose virtues are recognised. Bringing together medicinal and gustatory qualities, spices reflect an ancestral art of living that is once again taking centre stage.

“Rijsttafel” and you will enjoy myriad dishes that are very colourful and very tasty. And then there are the icons: the chicken satay in peanut sauce, the Rendang, a beef speciality that is simmered for five hours in coconut milk (this dish was quite simply selected as the best dish in the world by the readers of CNN Travel) and nasi goreng, Indonesian fried rice. For a quick bite or lunch in the office all of their best sellers are available as take out. On Friday nights there is a show of Balinese dance in shimmering colours to the sound of the gamelan. The meal comes to an end with a fresh lemon grass herbal tea or an Arabica coffee from Papua. The challenge has been successfully met: the Djakarta Bali is a fine ambassador for Indonesia. Let’s get a ticket right now for tonight and fly Djakarta-Bali. Djakarta Bali Tues-Sun Lunch & Dinner 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01 45 08 83 11

Opt for the tasting menu also known as

www.djakarta-bali.com

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DINING

Restaurants

Cheesy Goodness The recently opened Beau & Fort restaurant is a delightful address to sample cheese at its finest. The menu is humble in size but it certainly packs a punch when it comes to cheese, with most dishes featuring a different variety of the dairy product. Dishes include macaroni and cheese made with aged Comté, a cheeseburger drizzled with a blue cheese sauce, and a salad topped with creamy burrata. The standout “dish” here though is the cheese platter that can be mixed and matched as you wish with a choice of French cheese and a selection of international cheese. The restaurant also boasts a corner store where you can stock up on your favourite cheese. – S.I. Beau & Fort 37 rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th), 01 45 89 23 96

It is one of the city’s landmark brasseries, and Wepler remains one of the best places in the capital to enjoy very fine French onion soup. In a revamped 1930s ambiance you can enjoy traditional brasserie fare including an authentic Niçoise salad, choucroute, a large selection of meats and Wepler’s take on the hamburger, which is topped off with Saint-Nectaire cheese. Wepler is also noted for its fine fish and seafood and offers a large selection of oysters. Starters include salmon marinated in fennel or the traditional hard-boiled egg with mayonnaise. In addition to the superb choucroutes, including one revolving around fish, excellent main courses include calf’s liver and free-range chicken. You can also find here a fine litany of classic desserts including floating islands, crêpes Suzette and a giant homemade éclair. Very reasonable prices and continuous service are additional draws. - P.V. Wepler 14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01 45 22 53 24 76 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

Beau & Fort © Paul Bowyer; Wepler © Wepler

Brasserie Dining


DINING

Restaurant Advertorial

LE CINQ CODET Classic French / Paris 7th Nestled in the heart of a calm and fine design hotel, the patio is the perfect place to escape the unrestrained rhythm of the city. Come to enjoy a cocktail every Thursday for Happy Hour or savour a glass of wine on Saturday during our Jazz Nights. Meanwhile, you will be able to discover the Reality Check exhibition by Emily Marant, taking place in the hotel from September 6th to October 22nd. The exhibition resonates with the theme of Paris Design Week, A Better World, with a dreamlike approach to daily life. Bar: From Monday to Sunday 12pm to 12am Happy Hour: Thursdays 4pm to 7pm Jazz Nights: Saturdays 7.30pm to 10.30pm 5 rue Louis Codet, Paris 7th Metro: École militaire Tel. +33 (0)1 53 85 15 60 www.le5codet.com

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DINING

Restaurants

Pancakes All Day Every day is brunch day at Pancake Sisters where the entire menu works around the fluffy breakfast treat. This casual eatery is what brunch dreams are made of with the humble, yet very popular, pancake lending itself to both sweet and savoury dishes. Try the Panster, the house specialty sandwich made with savoury pancakes and stacked with melted cheese, ham and eggs, or order the Carrot Pancake, a delicious deconstructed carrot cake as seen through the eyes of a pancake. The restaurant is open from Wednesday to Sunday, until 6.30pm, and the best part here is that you can start with a sweet pancake before a savoury one or vice versa, here anything goes for your taste buds. – S.I. Pancake Sisters 8 rue Popincourt (11th), 09 82 60 96 69

FRENCH Souvenirs Founded in 1827, Boissier is a wonderful candy shop with pretty-looking chocolates and bonbons that are too irresistible, even for Victor Hugo who loved the sweets here. The round candy boxes can be filled with cherry bonbons, jubes or even sugar candy that look like precious stones. Boissier 184 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01 45 03 59 11

Michel Cluizel is one of our favourite chocolate shops, and Philippe Conticini is arguably our favourite pastry chef in the city and together they have released the perfect Secrets de Pros collection. Featuring products that the chef uses in his pastry creations, Michel Cluizel have made Conticini’s secrets known to us all and now you can buy the praline spread that the chef uses in his famous Paris-Brest to either attempt to make it yourself or simply spread it on a baguette and delight in the smooth with a hint of crunch spread. Michel Cluizel 3 rue Tronchet (8th), 01 80 06 84 00 78 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

Pancake Sisters © Pancake Sisters

Known for its macarons the iconic Parisian pastry shop Ladurée has just released a collection of herbal teas that are the perfect accompaniment to your high tea back home. Packaged in powder green, pink and blue, just like the famous tea salon, the blends include Harmonie, with notes of basil, mint and cardamom. Ladurée Thé&Beauté 232 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 40 13 09 12


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Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Enjoy an appetizer of crayfish followed by poultry with zucchini flowers, then cheese and dessert. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

FOOD & WINE Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and

vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Nicolas

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

Vintage&Cie

Exceptional wines are found in this shop, which specialises in grands crus, old vintages and rare wines. The boutique also offers a selection of champagnes and spirits as well as an eclectic range of more accessible wines. Every Thursday evening between 6pm and 8pm the house holds tastings open to the public to discover a wine, champagne or a spirit and the tasting room in the wine cellar can be privatised. 199 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.70.98.43. M° Ternes

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - Indochinese (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent Cambodian, Laotian and Vietnamese dishes in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Savoury starters include the shrimp dumpling soup and a fine selection of dim sum. Excellent main courses include the chicken sautéed with fresh ginger and prawns braised in three different peppers. The restaurant has a nice list of French wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. M° Concorde

Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French

fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-range chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.86.10.10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with

FAUCHON | Food & Wine (8th) 80 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

YACHTS DE PARIS | Classic French (4th)

Yachts de Paris ©Anne Emmanuelle Thion

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.


DINING

Address Book

leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L&D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Lulli - Classic French

(€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais RoyalMusée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas.

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LE RESTAURANT DU PALAIS ROYAL | Contemporary (1st)

ZE KITCHEN GALERIE | Fusion (6th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 81


DINING

Address Book AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th)

Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th)

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar

(€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine.

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an exceptional wine list. Tues-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens

of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. For starters try the refreshing gazpacho or asparagus with Parmesan cheese and radishes. Main dishes can include salmon with wild rice or a filet of Black Angus beef while cheesecake and a raspberry based pastry are stars of the dessert menu. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)

This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A nice wine list and house cocktails round out the offerings. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

LADURÉE CHAMPSELYSÉES | French Pastries (8th) 82 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

MANKO PARIS | Peruvian (8th)


DINING

Address Book Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. For starters sample sautéed mushrooms or creamy butternut squash soup, a delicious main course is the veal cutlet served in the pan and you can wind up with a cheese plate followed by a chocolate mousse flavoured with passion fruit. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet

(€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

AROUND BASTILLE (11 , 12 ) th

th

Le Train Bleu - Classic French

(€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters,

finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/ Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

Cyril Lignac’s one-star restaurant serves a marketbased cuisine of originally prepared French classics with an Asian touch in a warm atmosphere. Main courses can include beef filet with homemade satay sauce or baked pigeon flavoured with miso. All inclusive discovery and tasting menus are also on the agenda. Mon-Fri L&D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. There is an excellent cheese platter and desserts include a mango Pavlova and a rich house chocolate confection. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)

This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include

pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LE QUINZIEME | Fusion (15th)

SHANG PALACE | Chinese (16th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 83


The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Celebrate cocktail hour at the new ephemeral bar at the Mandarin Oriental, Paris (opposite page)

84 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Sweet Mandarin © Alexis Anice

Ephemeral Events | Pop-Up Bars | Cabarets | Nightclubs | Gentlemen’s Clubs


ENTERTAINMENT

Ephemeral Events

Gin for Two A new head barman can only mean one thing, new cocktails, and at the Mandarin Oriental, Paris, Judicaël Noël, who started at the hotel bar just a few months ago, is celebrating his arrival with an ephemeral bar in collaboration with Hendrick’s Gin. Set up in the garden terrace in front of the hotel’s Bar 8, the Hendrick’s Gin Bar is a British escape for cocktail hour. Embracing the origins of the gin, Noël has created two original cocktails for the pop-up event that can be enjoyed through to the 6th of October. Gin connoisseurs will be amused by the High Garden, served in a very English teacup, a nod to the British’s fondness of tea, the spirit is mixed with Chartreuse, cucumber syrup, lemon juice and mint bitters before a splash of Champagne is added. For a sweeter drink, the barman has created the Sweet Mandarin, with the gin mixed in with vanilla, mandarine nectar, vanilla bitters and yuzu juice, making for quite the drinkable dessert. - S.I.

High Garden © Alexis Anice; Kadamati © Kadamati Images by Kois Miah

Bar 8 251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 70 98 78 88

Outdoor Dancing The trend of the flash mob may have come and gone but on the 9th of September, English choreographer Akram Khan is bringing it back in style. In front of the town hall, the French capital will be welcoming 700 dancers who will perform Kadamati, a piece choreographed by Khan, and which draws inspiration from and celebrates diversity. The performance is free to watch and will see the amateur dancers, aged between 14 and 70 at 3, 4 and 5pm. - S.I. Parvis de l’Hôtel de Ville Place de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01 42 76 40 40 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 85


ENTERTAINMENT Pop-Up Bars

Rosé and Pétanque Head to the South of France without even leaving the French capital courtesy of the Royal Monceau Hotel. The posh hotel has turned its terrace into the Royal des Lices, with the ephemeral bar inspired by the famous Place des Lices market in Saint Tropez and bringing it to Paris. Open until mid-month, the bar invites you to enjoy a chilled glass of rosé and partake in the French’s most favoured summer sport, pétanque, with the hotel setting a court amid its hidden terrace. surrounded by the colours of the Mediterranean, sip and play your day away in Paris. Reservations are required. - S.I.

Sailing into Happy Hour For the second year running, the Park Hyatt Paris - Vendôme is welcoming back the Panerai Yacht Club and setting sail for cocktail hour all month. The pop-up space, complete with sails, is a chic escape for a drink courtesy of Campari with an Italian cocktail bar docking in the hotel’s gorgeous patio. Spritz, Americano and Bellini cocktails are all on the menu, to be enjoyed alfresco-style under the Parisian skies. The “Yacht Club” is also open for lunch and dinner with a menu put together by the hotel’s chef, Jean-François Rouquette, who has brought Italy to Paris with a delicious selection of antipasti and pasta dishes. - S.I. Panerai Yacht Club Park Hyatt Paris - Vendôme 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 71 12 34

86 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Royal des Lices © Romeo Balancourt; Park Hyatt Vendôme © David Emmanuel Cohen

Royal des Lices Royal Monceau 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01 42 99 88 82


ADVERTORIAL

Bel Canto, Dining Opera Show Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young professional opera stars of the future. Daily D only from 7:30pm.

72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville or Pont Marie Tel: 01 42 78 30 18 6 rue du commandant Pilot 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine Tel: 01 47 47 19 94 www.lebelcanto.com

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 87


ENTERTAINMENT Nightclubs

Havana Nights Overlooking the iconic Eiffel Tower, in the Trocadéro gardens, the Aquarium is hosting the French capital’s very first cigar truck. Cigar aficionados will love the opportunity to smoke a cigar while looking out onto one of the world’s most beautiful monuments. Offering hand-rolled Cuban cigars, the Cigar Truck is casually located in the Aquarium’s terrace, lending itself to show another, relaxed, side of cigar smoking. The ephemeral truck also offers a drinks menu curated to be enjoyed with the Cuban cigars and the jazzy sounds oozing in the background. The Cigar Truck is open from Wednesday to Sunday, from 3.30pm. - S.I.

A Key to Party With summer night slowly slipping away, a new season is to be celebrated and now the French capital has welcomed a new club, right in its heart, to keep party lovers happy. The Key welcomes guests with a trail of dancers from the entrance to the dancefloor where the residents and guest DJs make sure the music never stops. Once inside, screens project videos throughout the night and a private secret room with access gained only through a fingerprint scan allows guests to cheekily become part of the evening’s entertainment. The Key is open every Tuesday and on the weekends from midnight. - S.I. The Key 8 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 06 71 00 68 03 88 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Cigar Truck © E DA Forno; The Key © The Key

Cigar Truck Trocadéro Gardens Aquarium 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th)


ADVERTORIAL

“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of

becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared

for any situation in the City of Light. The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 500 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris... Ohlala! Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH

BOOK YOUR TICKETS & SHOW TIMES: www.oliviergiraud.com

BOOKING

24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 th) M° Grands Boulevards Theater with air conditioning

Sans titre-5 1

www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE

Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 89 01/06/2017 11:51


Cabarets

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

LIDO The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

90 WH E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2018 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

CRAZY HORSE

Photo © Moulin Rouge ® - S.Bertrand

Moulin Rouge


© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2018 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DÎNER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 180€ - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77€ - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM €180 - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM


Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Ice Kube Paris

The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face

CASINOS BARRIÈRE | Casino (Enghien-les-Bains) 92 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Juveniles

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

Le Bristol Bar

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Prescription Cocktail Club

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

Le Bar Long

CASINO

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ballroom

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

JAZZ CLUBS

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy

Caveau de la Huchette

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

HOTEL PROVIDENCE | Bars & Wine Bars (10th)

Hotel Providence ©Benoir Lenero; Casinos Barrière ©Fabrice Rambert

BARS & WINE BARS


ENTERTAINMENT

Address Book

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

NIGHT CLUBS

champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Le Mona Lisa

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Pachamama

L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Baron

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Le Duplex

armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield

Silencio

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Le Bel Canto

Palais Maillot

Le Double Fond

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and

JAZZ CLUB ETOILE

| Jazz Clubs (17th)

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

PALAIS MAILLOT

| Night Clubs (17th) w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 93


The Guide

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris EUROSTAR & TRAINS

MEDICAL SERVICES

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying

stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

LIMOUSINES Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

PARIS DISTRICTS

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge  74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

TAX REFUND When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens. 2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will

find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left

HAIR SALONS

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th),

Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde

SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Sefri-Cime - 20 place de Catalogne (14th), 01.40.48.57.00. M° Gaité Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay. 8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops. 9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann. 10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants. 11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas

PARIS

IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY

around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The

Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower. 18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge.

www.parismap.fr

94 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s

famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.


OTCP Photos © Marc Bertrand / Paris Tourist Office

Visitors Bureau Paris has a new welcome centre for visitors located right inside the City Hall. Reception teams, documentation, information on events, tours and outings, bookings and passes are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centre. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 29 rue de Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville. Also located at the Gare du Nord (10th) www.parisinfo.com

Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO ORLY AIRPORT The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take

Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room. English, French, Spanish spoken.

7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05

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SERVICES

Paris Metro ◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

96 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.


tiersPageV3.indd 2

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 97 09/07/15 22:59


My Paris

DAVID VOLET

HEAD CONCIERGE AT HOTEL REGINA Place des Vosges

Enjoy a cruise...

Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty? Paris is magical at night. A night cruise along the Seine is an enchantment. All monuments as well as bridges offer their best to outshine each other. Also a nice stroll along the River Seine offers a magnificent show with a second face of Paris. As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try? France is the country of food and Paris offers a large choice of restaurants, all very different by the type of cuisine or the atmosphere. I love Lazare, chef Eric Fréchon’s restaurant, and the recently opened Jean-François Piège bistro, La Poule au Pot. For a fine dining experience, I do recommend the historical two-star restaurant Le Grand Véfour located in the charming Palais Royal gardens. Chef Guy Martin offers an inventive and inspired cuisine. What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris? Walking through Paris gives you the opportunity to discover the highlights and the one that should not to be missed is the impressive Notre-Dame Cathedral. From the towers, you feel like going back to the twelfth century. Also, the Marais district is an area with lots of sites that makes Paris so special, 98 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

Verbreuil

Lazare

including Place des Vosges, the house of Victor Hugo, the food market Les Enfants Rouges... If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Right Bank or the Left Bank? Shopping on the Right Bank of course. Rue Saint-Honoré and under the arcades of Palais Royal offer a great selection of refined and local boutiques such as the house Verbreuil for leather goods, Serge Lutens for fragrances, and Didier Ludot for vintage chic. What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance? Start with a glass of Champagne at La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels located in front of the Marché Saint-Germain in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood. Then dinner at Lapérouse in one of their charming private dining rooms. That would be absolutely memorable for a romantic evening in Paris. What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital? For family-activities in Paris, I do recommend going to Jardin des Plantes and going through the Galerie de l’Evolution where you can see 7000 incredibly lifelike specimens. Do not miss the Galerie des Enfants for biodiversity and interactive games. Also I love the Musée de l’Orangerie and their workshop around the permanent collections or temporary exhibitions. Finally the zoo of Paris,

located in the Bois de Vincennes, is a great discovery for all the family. You should not miss the tropical greenhouse where some animals run free. What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city? The cosy Bar Anglais at Hôtel Regina, with its oak panelling and red velvet armchairs and sofas, is a refined place for cocktails and whiskey. The head barman, Marc Desange, offers a selection of about 50 different whiskeys from around the world. I like also going to the Speakeasy for live music while having a cocktail. Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats? Sunday in Paris is a smooth day where time is open to indulge yourself. I like brunching at Spoon 2 for its quality of products and world tour of flavours and Claus in Palais Royal for all the different options proposed.

My Perfect Day 9am: Stroll along La Coulée Verte 12pm: Tapas-lunch at A Noste 3pm: Private cruise along the River Seine 9pm: Aperitif at Rosa Bonheur sur Seine and dinner at Allard

where

®

Your Guide to the World

Cruise la Conciergerie iStock 2018 © Britus; Place des Vosges iStock 2018 © Nikada; Bar Anglais Régina © David GRIMBERT; Verbreuil © Verbreuil; Lazare © Lazare

The Bar Anglais


The complete universe of Maison&Objet in Paris



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