Where Paris magazine, September 2017

S E P T E MBE R 2 0 17

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 284

®

PARIS DISHES ON DESIGN FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

September PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

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PARIS | CONTENTS

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

Welcome Home Meet Sarah Lavoine, the interior designer who is styling Paris

Seizing Cézanne

Discover the artist’s portraits at the Musée d’Orsay

The guide 20 SHOPPING

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 54 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 68 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 80 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and bars 90 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings

S E P T E MBE R 2 0 17 Issue N o 284

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

PARIS DISHES ON DESIGN FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

ON THE COVER

Turn to page 12 to meet Sarah Lavoine and discover her interior design style Photo © Francis Amiand

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OCTO FINISSIMO SKELETON Limited Edition for Dubail 8 pieces numbered Stainless steel case with the treatment of diamond like carbon.

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Serigraphed sapphire crystal case back Champs-Elysées or Place Vendôme.

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Welcome to Paris

THE TEAM | WHERE PARIS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander*

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

As the seasons slowly hand over the city one to another, the French capital doesn’t skip a beat in offering a plethora of things to do and to discover.

jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com ADVERTISING  ACCOUNT MANAGER Aymen Rakrouki* Publicité secteur Marché de l’Art HELIUM Publicité Tel: 01 48 01 86 86 contact@heliumpublicite.fr

September spells a welcome invitation to all design aficionados with the Maison & Objet trade show showcasing the latest

DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang*

creations from designers coming from all over the world

EDITORIAL AND MARKETING ASSISTANT Daria Kobzysta*

and one designer to keep an eye out for is Sarah Lavoine.

OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy*

We meet with the French designer who is fast-becoming

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the embodiment of Parisian style in décor. Art lovers will also appreciate our look into Cézanne’s work just in time for the

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Musée d’Orsay’s exhibition on the artist’s portraits.

MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

MVP I EXECUTIVE

In our Dressing Up in Diamonds and Fur photo shoot we take you to the rooftop of the Prince de Galles hotel, bringing you haute diamonds and exquisite fur, to keep you warm and dazzling in the cooler months.

For our readers who want to eat their way through the city our Dining pages bring you excellent tables to sample while our Entertainment section is bursting with jazz, musicals and bars.

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MVP I CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans.

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THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES

12, B OULEVARD DES CAPUCINES ïš» PARIS 9 E BUCHERER.COM

HOT DATES

September

Discover the best of September in Paris

Fashion takes over the arts ALL MONTH At the Musée des Arts Décoratifs the house of Christian Dior’s 70 years of design is being celebrated with a retrospective bringing together over 300 dresses. The exhibition is an ode to the luxury fashion house that was established by Monsieur Dior and which later, over the years, saw Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano and now Maria Grazia Chiuri at the helm as creative directors.

107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 55 57 50

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Christian Dior, robe Opéra bouffe, Haute couture automne-hiver 1956, ligne Aimant. Robe du soir en faille de soie d’Abraham. Paris, Dior Héritage © Photo Les Arts Décoratifs / Nicholas Alan Cope; © Pierre Hermé; Georg Mallner Patron x Sebastien Gaudard ; Le BHV Marais loves Mickey Mouse - Disney Store

PARIS THIS MONTH

Mooncakes FROM 13 Pastry chef extraordinaire, Pierre Hermé, has come up with his own version of the Chinese mooncake, the baked cake that is traditionally eaten during the Mid-Autumn Festival. The Mooncake, à la Hermé, comes in four flavours including praline and chocolate, vanilla and Matcha green tea with yuzu. Celebrate autumn early and bite into this limited edition cake before it’s too late.

Available at Galeries Lafayette Gourmet

Mickey Comes to Paris SEPTEMBER 626

Sweet Tequila ALL MONTH

One of our favourite department stores, BHV Marais, is celebrating our all-time favourite Disney character, Mickey. The iconic mouse is being honoured with a pop-up store where shoppers will find a capsule collection of t-shirts and sweatshirts, toys and even luggage.

55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09 77 40 14 00

If you like your French pastries with a Mexican alcoholic tang then make sure you stop over at Sébastien Gaudard’s shop where the pastry chef has cleverly partnered up with Patrón Tequila to create El Baba. The limited edition pastry is a new take on the traditional Baba au rhum, replacing the rum with a shot of tequila.

1 rue des Pyramides (1st), 01 71 18 24 70 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 9

PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs SEPTEMBER 8-11 BIJORHCA This international, professionals only, fair is devoted to fine fashion jewellery, watches, the manufactures and suppliers. Some 400 exhibitors reveal the latest trends and collections while exhibitions from individual creators and conferences round out the agenda. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 11th. www.bijorhca.com Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

SEPTEMBER 8-12 MAISON & OBJET

NOVEMBER 610 If you have ever wondered what it would be like to get around a hotel bathroom if you were blind, deaf or in a wheelchair then a visit to the Senses Bath Room booth at the Maison & Objet trade show will be quite the interesting stop for you. Showcasing their design concept for hotel rooms to accommodate clients with all different needs, Senses Room has set up a suite where visitors can partake in a virtual tour to experience how much easier it is to get around with an improved design. Refer to our Trade Shows & Art Fairs round-up for all the information on how to get to the trade show.

PFW FROM 26

Music Festival 22TH SEPTEMBER Celebrate indie pop at the Paris Popfest music festival taking place this weekend. The line-up includes British singer/songwriter Parenthesis… who will be performing his joyous electro torch songs at Espace B tonight.

16 rue Barbanègre (19th), 09 84 54 19 83 10 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2017

Paris Fashion Week takes hold of the city starting today with all our favourite brands showcasing their spring/summer 2018 collections.

Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior are only some of the big name brands showing their new collections for next year’s warmer months.

SEPTEMBER 19-21 PREMIERE VISION PLURIEL Grouping together six different fairs, this trade show, for professionals only, takes you straight into the world of fashion and textiles with its latest trends and innovations. Visitors can enter into the worlds of yarns, fabrics, leather, designs, accessories and manufacturing. The show is open from 10am to 6pm. www.premierevision.com Parc des Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte

SEPTEMBER 22-30 FOIRE DE CHATOU This show, which is held twice a year draws some 500 hundred merchants from all over France displaying antiques, wares and bric-a-brac reflecting regional traditions, crafts and gastronomy all spread out over a miniature village setting on an island in the Seine. This year’s theme revolves around the table arts and the art de vivre. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.foiredechatou.com Ile des Impressionnistes, 78400 Chatou, 01 34 80 66 00

SEPTEMBER 28-30 SALON ZEN Well-being, organic products, healing careers and personal development for one and all are to be found at this trade show celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. Some 350 exhibitors, conferences, workshops and classes in various Zen methods are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10:30am to 7pm, and until 9pm on the 29th. www.salon-zen.fr Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th), 01 45 56 09 09

Senses Bath Room ; Paris Popfest Parenthesis…; iStockphoto 2017 © Matsiash

The Sixth Sense

Explore the world of home fashion at this show, for professionals only, bringing together the latest for the home: decor, design, furnishings, textiles, luxurious fittings for the home and more from 3000 brands from all over the world. This year’s theme is comfort. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm, and closes at 6pm on the 12th. www.maison-objet.com Parc des Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte

1UE1D0 S, EALER

ANTIQ RIES E L L A ART G OPS. AND SH

Between the Orsay Museum and the Louvre Museum, the Carré Rive Gauche, a neighbourhood rich in history!

Take a unique trip through 7,000 years of decorative art history while revelling in the diversity and wealth of the works on display!

CARRÉ RIVE GAUCHE ANTIQUAIRES & GALERIES D’ART - PARIS VII

Rue du Bac, rue de Beaune, rue de Lille, rue Montalembert, rue des Saints-Pères, rue de l’Université, rue de Verneuil, quai Voltaire. Paris VI and VII. www.carrerivegauche.com

Avec le parrainage du ministère de la Culture et de la Communication

Welcome Home

By Sandra Iskander

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Interview

C

elebrated French interior designer Sarah Lavoine is well-known for her signature blue and her take on contemporary design. Recently taking on the instrumental project of designing Printemps’s newly opened home décor department, Lavoine is further securing her role in being one of France’s most exciting designers to watch. Here we speak to the designer about taking on the task of working with Printemps, travelling the world and how she handles friends asking for design advice.

Sarah Lavoine © François Darmigny; Concept store Place des Victoires © Francis Amiand

A lot of designers tend to have a signature feel to their designs, how difficult is it to maintain that feel and still create something new for each client and space?

It’s very important for me to give happiness to my client with a project or a product. I think it’s my first signature. If you are talking about a specific design or a touch, it’s the possibility to adapt this signature to the project, using colour like I always do to add a graphic touch, using black as a statement, something that is not ostentatious, the material’s choice, velvet, elegant wood or linen for example.

You recently designed the new home department for Printemps, what was it like working for a huge department store so iconic to the city and what was it like designing spaces for other designers?

It was a challenge for me and my team but so exciting. Le Printemps is a part of my childhood.

When I was a little girl the store during Christmas was just a dream, [and it] still is today.

Le Printemps is a part of Parisian life, a landmark, and a fashion and lifestyle reference.

The architectural project is a typically Haussmannian triplex. We took our inspiration from the story and the architecture of Printemps, which are mixed with the Maison Sarah Lavoine identity. We wanted to give some freshness and light. The result is a Parisian space, chic and coloured. It’s the definition of the universe of Maison Sarah Lavoine.

What inspired your signature Bleu Sarah colour that has now become synonymous with your brand?

My inspiration for this colour is the colour itself. I wanted a colour that can adapt to all materials.

This blue has something magical about it, sometimes you see a deep blue, sometimes it vibrates like a green and it can transform the perception of the material you colour it with.

When designing a new space what do you look for first?

The light is very important in a space. It can change the way you design a space.

How difficult is it when a client makes requests that aren’t suitable for his or her space?

It’s very important to be able to listen to all the client’s requests. After that, it’s my work to find a solution to make the dream come true. It’s true that sometimes it is not possible and we need to talk about that together in order to find a suitable compromise. I always say that there’s a lot of psychology in my work. It’s true and I love to be a part of their happiness with a space that answers their requests.

How closely do you follow fashion in designing your own collections?

The material and textiles of course [play a role].

It’s very exciting to see that some fabrics used in fashion can create a wow effect on a piece of furniture. The colour too. I have my colour pallet, but sometimes fashion seasons can inspire different hues.

What are your favourite clothing brands and boutiques in Paris?

We have just started a small line of comfy items at Maison Sarah Lavoine. Shirts, t-Shirts, cashmere and cotton sweaters, I also like Sezan very much. We worked together on a great collection for shoes and heels at the beginning of the year. James Perse is also a must.

If you could design any place in the world what would it be?

Maybe another hotel or a store in Tokyo.

If you could collaborate with any other designer who would it be?

Philippe Starck.

Have you ever walked into a place and admired its interior design that you wished it were you who had put it all together yourself?

Yes it’s happened many times, recently with La Villa Lacoste near Aix-en-Provence.

You recently opened your first Parisian flagship.

Why did it take you so long to do that?

Before the opening, there were already two stores in Paris. For this project I was just waiting for the perfect place at the perfect moment. I’m very happy to open my first Parisian flagship between two historic places of Paris, Place des Victoires and Place des Petits Pères. The building is amazing, it has windows looking onto these two squares, and it’s like a real home, I gather objects that I find when w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13

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Interview

Maison Sarah Lavoine (above) and Printemps’s home décor space (opposite page)

traveling, they are my own collections, you can stop to read a book, take a break at the restaurant, eat a bite or have a coffee. Its friendly more than anything.

My phone, pictures of my children and my passport.

If there were one piece of advice you can give people when designing their homes what would it be?

Follow your instinct and your heart.

Do you have any suitcase packing advice?

I like to travel light. Because I travel so much I pretty much always pack the same way so I’m sure I won’t be cold, nor too warm, I believe in layered outfits and natural fabrics to keep comfortable in any occasion.

What is the one mistake people make when decorating their homes or offices?

The total look [where everything is the same colour].

What are you favourite cities to visit?

I have a crush on Marrakesh, it’s been a while. I like this ethnic vibe that is yet so close to us.

DESIGN STORES TO DISCOVER IN PARIS THE CONRAN SHOP Founded by Terence Conran, this store is a design haven boasting carefully selected pieces from well-known and up-and-coming designers from all over the world.

117 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 84 10 01 MAISONS DU MONDE

Printemps de la Maison © Manuel Bougot ; Maison Sarah Lavoine © Francis Amiand

This chain of furniture stores offers décor

What are the DOs and DON’Ts when it comes to interior designing a home and an office?

Mix vintage and modern pieces. A total look isn’t a good thing to do because it can’t create intimacy and I think its cold.

Do friends always ask you for decorating advice?

Not always but it happens.

If you were not an interior designer what would you be doing?

Tricky question. I studied acting so maybe I would be an actress?

What do you do when you first arrive in a new city?

Walk in the streets. Feeling the good vibes all around.

What country did you recently visit that left an impression on you and why?

Recently I went to India and Japan for different projects and Asia has this special effect on me.

You feel connected, rooted and at the same time like projected in a future that you haven’t met in Europe. It’s almost a spiritual experience.

pieces with an ethnic flair.

5 blvd Montmartre (2nd), 01 42 36 00 99 DYSON This is where you will find all of awardwinning James Dyson’s designs including the Dual Cyclone bagless vacuum cleaner.

64 rue de la Boétie (8th), 01 56 69 79 79 FLEUX’ This popular multi-brand store in the

If you had to define your style in three words what would they be?

Elegant, chic, coloured.

What are some of your favourite places in Paris, from a décor point of view?

The Grand Palais and the Jardin des Tuileries

PRINTEMPS 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 72 82 67 16

When travelling what are the 3 things you never leave without?

MAISON SARAH LAVOINE 6 Place des Victoires (2nd), 01 40 13 75 75

Marais offers a colourful choice of home objects ranging from modern to retro in style.

39 rue Saint-Croix de la Bretonnerie (4th), 01 42 78 27 20

And make sure you turn to page 92 for pieces to dress your bedside table.

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Seizing CĂŠzanne

By Patricia Valicenti

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Musée d’Orsay, Istockphoto 2017 © Gwengoat; Portrait of a woman with a coffee maker. Paul Cézanne, La Femme à la cafetière, vers 1895, Paris, musée d’Orsay, don de M. et Mme Jean-Victor Pellerin, 1956. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (musée d’Orsay) / Hervé Lewandowski /Service Presse-Musée d’Orsay

Exhibition

Paul Cézanne’s portrait of a woman with a coffee maker (above) and Musée d’Orsay (opposite page)

T

here is the boy in the red vest, the wizened farmers, the gardener, all gripping portraits, portraits by Paul Cézanne. His intense colours, the sculptural aspect of his work, the convergence of painting with drawing all emerge in these portraits. Cézanne painted some 160 portraits over the course of his career including 26 of himself and 29 of his wife, Hortense Fiquet.

This aspect of his work is less well known than his still lifes, his landscapes and his bathers and despite the exhibitions and events devoted to the artist, regarded as one of the most influential of the 19th and 20th centuries, his portraits have never been the subject of a major exhibition until now with a show entitled Portraits by Cézanne currently underway at the Musée d’Orsay, which organised the show in conjunction with the Musée de l’Orangerie, the National Portrait Gallery of London and the National Gallery of Art in Washington D.C.

The show offers a chronological journey into Cézanne’s portraiture while taking a look at the changes in his style and method along the way. Although among the thousands of works painted by Cézanne only 160 were portraits it was through representations of himself, his family and circle of friends that the artist began his career. It was a self-portrait that he first painted in the early 1860s and this focus on his portraits presents the most personal aspect of his work.

The works that are on show emanate from private collections and prestigious museums from around the world and include the prominent portraits of Uncle Dominique, dating from the 1860s and the final representations of The Gardener Vallier, the artist’s gardener in Aix-enProvence, produced in the early 20th century.

The exhibition explores Cézanne’s distinctive aesthetic and thematic characteristics in the exercise of portrait painting and especially

how he established a dialogue between complementary works and versions of the same subject. There is Mrs Cézanne in blue, Mrs Cézanne sitting on a yellow chair, Mrs Cézanne in a striped skirt, Mrs Cézanne sewing, and Mrs Cézanne in the garden with one of the highlights of the exhibition being the series of four versions of Madame Cézanne in a Red Dress. Cézanne met Hortense Fiquet, a young model, in Paris in 1869, who would become his companion. Their son Paul was born out of wedlock in 1872 but was recognised by the artist and the couple would marry in 1886 in Aix-en-Provence where Cézanne was born.

Cézanne launched into a series of portraits of his maternal uncle Dominique Aubert in 1866: Uncle Dominique in a turban, a profile portrait of Uncle Dominique, the lawyer Uncle Dominique, and Uncle Dominique as a Dominican monk. Witty and gritty, these portraits would underscore his radical method of fashioning w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 17

Portrait of Achille Emperaire, a friend of Cézanne (left), a portait of Gustave Geffroy (right), and one of the portraits of the artist’suUncle Dominique pictured here as a lawyer

the face imparting upon it an ultimate reality.

He would apply the paint, liberally using the palette knife, on coarsely woven canvas to give structure as well as a sculptural dimension (found throughout the body of his work) to the face while blending together black tones with lighter tones in various layers.

He would pursue the representation of faces using surfaces of colour as a prism revealing the reflections of light thus offering his models a representation that was both humble and monumental whether they were anonymous farmers or illustrious members of Parisian art circles, with his portraits of farmers and workers underscoring his deep attachment to his native land, Provence.

The way he painted faces caused him to be considered the father of modernity in portrait painting. Cézanne’s unique method of building form with colour was an influence on the art of Cubists, Fauvists and successive generations of avant-garde artists. Both Matisse and Picasso called Cézanne “the father of us all”.

Portraits by Cézanne also takes a look at 18 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

the artist’s understanding of resemblance and identity as well as the extent to which particular sitters influenced his choices and the development of his practice.

“Reading the model and creating it is sometimes very slow in coming for the artist,” Cézanne said towards the end of his life. His portraits reflect his intense study of his subjects. The artist would paint portraits, regularly throughout his career, depicting family members and people close to him more often than personalities of the art world.

And his portraits retrace the rich and complex evolution of an artist who from the beginning demonstrated a previously unseen originality and independence in his works.

In the early 1870s, Cézanne worked with Camille Pissaro at Auvers-sur-Oise and began using new techniques with colour and he would paint several self-portraits linking the subject to the background as in some of the portraits of the gardener Vallier that were done outdoors bringing together,

symbolically, towards the end of Cézanne’s life, his portraits and his landscapes.

Through to September 24 MUSÉE D’ORSAY 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01 40 49 48 14

Portrait of Achille Emperaire, a friend of the painter. Paul Cézanne, Achille Emperaire, 1867-1868, Huile sur toile, Paris, Musée d’Orsay; Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (musée d’Orsay) / Hervé Lewandowski/ Service Presse-Musée d’Orsay. Portait of Gustave Geffroy. Paul Cézanne, Gustave Geffroy, 1895-1896, Huile sur toile, Paris, musée d’Orsay, don de la petitefille d’Auguste Pellerin, 1969. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (musée d’Orsay) / Hervé Lewandowski /Service Presse-Musée d’Orsay; One of the portraits of the artist’s Uncle Dominique pictured here as a lawyer. Paul Cézanne L’Avocat (L’Oncle Dominique), 1866, Paris, Musée d’Orsay, accepté par l’État à titre de dation en paiement de droits de mutation, 1991.

Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (musée d’Orsay) / Hervé Lewandowski/Service Presse-Musée d’Orsay

Exhibition

The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

For Her | Accessories | For Him | For Children | Beauty Finds | Department Stores

Tartine et Chocolat x Chatelles mini me shoes. Turn to page 30 for more looks for the little ones.

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SHOPPING

For Her

Carrying Paris One of our favourite American brands is celebrating the French capital with a limited edition bag. Michael Kors has just released a new set of its iconic Selma bag with five different designs inspired by the cities that have inspired the designer over the years and of course one of the 5 designs is an ode to Paris, which Michael Kors declares is a dazzling combination of elegance, glamour and romance.

The Paris satchel bag naturally features the city’s most iconic monument, the Eiffel Tower, dotted with studs and glitter, bringing the glamour of the city to your hand.

Michael Kors Boutique 279 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 70 36 44 40

Frenchy Berets While it is a common cliché to imagine Parisians parading around in berets, there is nothing cliché about Laulhère’s collection of the trademark Parisian hat. Made in France, Laulhère’s berets are made with the finest wool and are not only available in a variety of colours but also in different designs that stray away from the classic plain black beret. The French house’s autumn/winter 2017/2018 collection sees splatters of paint, a seal of gold and glittery sequins dressing berets to bring fashionistas a new take on the French headwear.

Laulhère Boutique 14 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 65 90 59

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SHOPPING For Her

Nature X Fashion

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1 Fête Imperiale, 28 rue du Roi de Sicile (3rd), 01 57 40 69 30 2 Alexis Mabille, 11 rue de Grenelle (7th), 09 80 63 03 91 3 Giambattista Valli, Galerie de la Madeleine, 30 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 40 17 05 88 4 Georges Chakra, Showroom Georges Chakra (By appointment only), 6 ave du président Wilson (8th) 01 47 20 11 04 5 Gucci ,available at Printemps, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00 6 Layone, available at Printemps 7 Lanvin, 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 44 71 33 33 8 Ines de Parcevaux, available at Micha Concept Store, 25 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01 49 52 09 09 22 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

YOHJI YAMAMOTO 14-15 Conduit Street London W1S 2XJ Y’s YOHJI YAMAMOTO 25, rue du Louvre 75001 Paris

yohjiyamamoto.co.jp

SHOPPING For Him

Signature Steps Created in 1935, the house of Aubercy is known for its elegant footwear for posh gentlemen, designing shoes that are both comfortable and distinguished. The family-run house now offers its dapper clientele a bespoke service inviting every gentleman the chance to create his own, unique pair of shoes. Made with the finest of leathers, each shoe is designed around the client’s style and specific requirements before a fitting is organised. Handmade and taking up to 60 hours of artisanal work, the pair is then delivered, beautifully wrapped and ready to be worn to wherever the gentleman needs to be, in a boardroom, at a casino or boarding a private jet for another trip to the City of Light.

Aubercy Boutique 34 rue Vivienne (2nd), 01 42 33 93 61

A Sleek Skeleton The house of Roger Dubuis has brought out this year its limited edition Excalibur 42 Cobalt Micro-Melt®. The elegant timepiece combines a sleek blue look with a robust design and the house’s astral skeleton. Cobalt Chrome Micro Melt®, which is used for the watch’s 42 millimetre case is a very high performance cobalt-chrome alloy widely associated with aeronautics and astronomy. The watch is outfitted with the house’s RD820SQ calibre, a self-winding, automatic skeleton with a micro rotor finely adjusted in six positions. Waterproof to 30 meters, the watch is outfitted with a blue alligator strap featuring blue stitching and a stainless steel and titanium adjustable folding buckle. The watch has been brought out in a limited edition of 28 pieces and carries the Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève) certification, regarded as the ultimate standard in excellence in fine watchmaking. - P.V. Available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 79 56

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WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Radiant

ROCHAS

P

ure poetic lines, luxurious fabrics, an occasional touch of rock or couture features, a dash of romance and trim silhouettes are hallmarks of the 25 looks for the Autumn/Winter 2017/2018 menswear collection of the Rochas house.

The inspiration for the first collection wardrobe, equally suited for day and night, follows the movements of its wearer with ease, gracefully sculpting and delineating his form all the while remaining comfortable.

Ingenious, cosmopolitan and fascinating, the Rochas man has a clear point of view on style appreciating a fashion-forward wardrobe devoid of ostentation.

Each piece of clothing is made from luxurious and innovative fabrics and carries the Rochas signature, an impeccable cut for a sober and elegant style combined with refined details. Tweeds, jacquard and holographic silk and satin convey emotion while fine cashmere is sensual, thick and cabled.

The look is deliberately fitted.

Coats include a precisely cut pea coat, a biker jacket and a narrow overcoat. Meanwhile, the trousers are night and day and have a dress suit finishing. This collection has a focus on volume with the oversized hooded parka conveying the spirit of the Rochas man.

A soothing palette of colours defines the collection including

Baltic and Turquin blues as key shades. Chinese white, chalk and dove grey add luminosity complemented by black, dark or sandy, to underscore the Rochas man’s silhouette while menthol and purple impart a cheerful touch.

To showcase an exclusive selection of the brand’s ready-to-wear pieces and accessories from the collection, the house has opened up a pop-up store, which will remain in place through to September.

Rochas Pop-up Store Open Monday to Saturday from 11am to 7pm 420 rue Saint-Honoré (8th) 01 45 08 49 63 www.rochas.com w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 25

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

3 TOURIST PACKAGES BEYOND THE ORDINARY Insider Marais Want to experience the Marais way of life?

First, enjoy an exclusive shopping experience at LE BHV MARAIS, with VIP access to our Salon Marais lounge.

Then, head off with your private guide to discover the top spots in the district. We’re the only department store in the world with its own travel experts offering specialist tours in 7 different languages! Finally, thanks to your VIP pass, discover Le Perchoir Marais, the most beautiful rooftop in Paris.

Shop as a Parisian Have you heard of LE BHV MARAIS, the Galeries Lafayette’s Marasian sibling? They’re both part of the same group! If you’re looking for an authentic Marais shopping experience, LE BHV MARAIS has you covered.

Streamline your visit with a hands-free shopping service, full use of the charming Salon Marais and VIP delivery service straight to your hotel.

Finish it all off with a relaxing evening on our rooftop bar, drink in hand.

Good Deal Take advantage of the best deals at the Parisians’ favorite department store for a fraction of the price!

Head off on a shopping trip, armed with your limited edition LE BHV MARAIS tote bag and a discount voucher. Fancy a tasty break?

Visit our restaurants on the 5th floor of the store.

Book your bespoke Marais package via Expedia or contact us on: booking@bhv.fr

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WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

LE BHV MARAIS

THE PARISIANS’ FAVORITE DEPARTMENT STORE Boasting a 160 year history, LE BHV MARAIS is a Parisian institution, housing over 2,000 brands and a bespoke set of tourist packages, straight from the heart of the Marais

F

ounded in 1856 and ideally located at the entrance of Marais district, the flagship LE BHV MARAIS finds itself amidst the capital’s most famous tourist destinations; the Louvre, Notre Dame and the Pompidou centre included. An area entirely unique in the world, the Marais is an epicenter of trends, uniting history, nightlife and shopping in one distinctive location.

This year, LE BHV MARAIS is opening its doors to this historical quarter, giving you a front row seat! The store has created its own tailor made tourist packages that take place in the Marais, showing you the most exclusive cultural, arty and foodie spots to be seen. Round off the experience with a luxurious shopping spree in the department store and a well deserved drink on the rooftop bar of Le Perchoir Marais.

The Parisians’ favorite department store, LE BHV MARAIS welcomes 70,000 visitors on

average each day. An immense space, this multispecialist store houses over 2,000 brands within its 45,000m2 surface area, catering to any kind of lifestyle needs, be they fashion, home, beauty, DIY or food. You name it!

Recently renovated, this shopping destination is about so much more than retail therapy alone. Looking for something a little less ordinary? You’re bound to find inspiration in LE BHV MARAIS. Home to exclusive brands such as Anthropologie, Urban Outfitters, Culture Vintage and Mo&Co, the store offers a selection for any kind of occasion.

A stone’s throw away on the Rue des Archives, 5 luxury boutiques have been opened to offer a new range of high-end items. Come and discover the spacious stores of Givenchy, Gucci, Valentino, Fendi and Moncler.

A hub of activity and creativity, LE BHV MARAIS presents countless pop ups and collaborations

throughout the year, putting new designers and brands in the spotlight. Exclusive international previews, a cutting edge press area and passionate sales experts are forever on hand to make your experience truly one of a kind.

Feeling peckish? LE BHV MARAIS will tickle your tastebuds with some of the most delicious gourmet names, such as L’Eclair de Génie, L’Artisan de la Truffe, Café Marlette and Big Fernand. Better yet, the store enjoys one of the best views in the city, direct from its rooftop.

Want to see it up close? Come and discover Le Perchoir Marais, the rooftop bar with a panoramic view that needs to be seen to be believed.

LE BHV MARAIS, 55 RUE DE RIVOLI 75004 Tel: 00 (33) 977 401 400 Open Monday - Saturday 9.30am - 8pm Sunday 11am - 7pm www.lebhvmarais.fr

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SHOPPING For Him

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1 Hugo Boss, 43 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01 47 03 94 00 2 Saint Laurent, 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 83 84 53 3 Olympus, available at Fnac, Passage du Havre, 109 rue Saint-Lazare (9th), 0 825 02 00 20 4 & 5 Pacoma, available at Pacôma Showroom, 8 rue La Fayette (9th), 01 44 78 85 65 6 Lanvin, 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 44 71 33 33 7 Valérie Danenberg, 1 rue du Marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 19 59 28 WH ER E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

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44 rue Etienne Marcel, Paris 2e - 26-28 rue Danielle Casanova, Paris 2e 10 rue de Grenelle, Paris 6e - 8 avenue George V, Paris 8e Galeries Lafayette Haussmann - Le Bon MarchĂŠ - Printemps Haussmann gasbijoux.com

SHOPPING

For Children

Mini Me Babies

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5 6 1 Zadig & Voltaire, 22 rue de Turenne (4th), 01 42 71 81 12 2 Little Marc Jacobs, available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 3 Timberland, available at Kids Around Boutique, 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01 45 05 19 50 4 Chloé, available at Marina Boutique, 82 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 65 96 21 5 Tartine et Chocolat x Chatelles, available at Chatelles Boutique, 94 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 22 20 46 6 Hugo Boss, 115 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01 53 57 35 40

ADVERTORIAL

Tikibou Toy Store The oldest toy store in Paris, Tikibou, is where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites. Here you will find playful gems including Tintin, model cars and music boxes, making the shopping experience here quite exceptional. The wonderful and fun selection of toys, for both young and old, which include a fine choice of scale models and miniature trains makes this store an ideal address if you are looking for a unique gift for a collector or if you are looking for something that will bring a smile to your child and which could remain in the family for years to come.

33 blvd Edgar Quinet - Paris 14th Tel: 01 43 20 98 79 (M° Edgar Quinet) 20 ave Félix Faure - Paris 15th (M° Félix Faure) Tel: 01 45 58 17 44

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G A L E R I ES L A FAY E T T E PA R I S H AU S S M A N N

THE ULTIMATE SHOPPING DESTINATION Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, of fers more than 3,500 brands from af fordable to the most prestigious references amongst which Chanel, Christian Dior, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Yves Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Fauré Lepage, Messika, Céline, Bulgari, Rolex, Fendi, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Boucheron.

STYLE LESSON AT GALERIES LAFAYETTE

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN CELEBRATES DIOR 70TH ANNIVERSARY

HISTORIC TOURS EVERY SATURDAY AND SUNDAY

This season silhouettes greatly favour architectural

2 017 i s t h e y e a r D i o r c e l e b r a t e s i t s s e v e n t i e t h

Founded in 1893, Galeries Lafayette was the last-born

lines. The codes for military wardrobes, navy and

anniversary. Galeries Lafayette is delighted to mark

of Paris’ department stores. From a small boutique

army, have taken up residence in Galeries Lafayette.

the event with the House of Dior.

on Rue Lafayette to the f lagship store on Boulevard

Navy and khaki are “standing to attention”, sof tened

As celebrations to mark the anniversary get underway,

Haussmann, discover the history of this iconic store,

with pastel hues, f loral prints and devious motifs.

n otab ly with th e major exhibition Christian D ior:

a legend of Parisian fashion and commerce.

Designer of Dreams at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs until 7 January 2018, Galeries Lafayet te is paying

This tour will describe the commercial revolution of

tribute to the House of Dior from 20 September to

the 19th century, which gave rise to the birth of the

10 October, with special window displays, exclusive

department store, the beginnings of Galeries Lafayette

products and the exhibition I Feel Blue at Galerie des

and how it has developed since 1894. You will discover

Galeries. Twelve Monsieur Dior’s designs from the

the secrets of its construction, step by step, from the

archives will illustrate his fondness for the colour of

ground f loor to its panoramic terrace, and including

the kings of France.

the neo-byzantine dome that was inaugurated in 1912.

Reser vation on the Galeries Lafayet te Paris Haussmann Website / Events

GALERIES L AFAYET TE PARIS HAUSSMANN: 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN, 75009 PARIS METRO: CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - L A FAYET TE

Open every day from 9.30 am to 8.30 pm and on Sunday from 11 am to 7 pm. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 - haussmann.galerieslafayette.com

SHOPPING Beauty

New Looking

SKIN

After spending summer in the sun it is time to treat your skin to a little bit of TLC

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Skinfood’s Black Sugar Perfect Essential Scrub 2X is one of our alltime favourite products that leaves your skin feeling brand new.

With black sugar extract, the scrub gently exfoliates your skin, removing old keratin, and leaves you with nourished smooth skin.

Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50

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After stripping your skin’s dead cells it is time to replenish and hydrate it to make sure it keeps looking its best. Valmont’s Deto2x Cream is a standout moisturiser that captures oxygen to inject it into your skin.

The foam texture of the cream is renewed every day with oxygen, meaning that every time you open the jar you find a new layer of foam to apply to your face, giving your face an intense injection of oxygen every time you use it.

Valmont Spa Le Meurice Hotel 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 77

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And don’t forget your lips ladies. Dr Brandt’s Needles No More 3-D Lip PLUMPfix is a 2-in-1 serum that will leave you with smoother and plumper lips. The AM side plums up your lips while the PM side nourishes and repairs your lips while you sleep.

Available at Sephora

For a deeper treatment to remove old skin cells make sure you invest in Anne Semonin’s Resurfacing Peel Mask, which works to renew and revive your skin. Using fruit acids and enzymes, the mask removes dead skin cells to leave you with a radiant looking complexion.

Anne Semonin Boutique 2 rue des Petits Champs (2nd), 01 42 61 09 46

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For the rest of your body head to Rituals for their new line of Hammam products, bringing the Turkish bath ritual to your bathroom. Start by using the Black Soap to deeply cleanse your skin and purify it by removing old skin cells before using the Hot Scrub with sea salt to complete the exfoliating process leaving you with smooth skin. Then lather your skin with the eucalyptus and rosemary body cream to hydrate it and keep it feeling baby skin soft.

Rituals Boutique 24 rue Vieille du Temple (4th), 01 57 40 67 93

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

IRIS CANTABRI Fabulous & Friendly

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rt, craftsmanship and technology all come together in the clothing created by the French fashion house of Iris Cantabri. Innovation in creation emerges in the designs of Guillaume Michel who created his house, calling it Iris Cantabri, in 2013. His free and spontaneous creative process is played out in his Parisian workshop where he designs the house’s dresses, jackets, tops and skirts for women in limited editions rather than as collections.

The creative process of Guillaume Michel begins with an emotion, a desire, a reflection on current events or an artist or a fascination with a work or a place. He graduated from the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and went on to learn his trade with Emanuel Ungaro and Alexis Mabille before launching his own brand. The designer works directly on living models in order to perfectly tailor the clothing.

Values and ethics are the hallmarks of the brand with Iris Cantabri committed to limiting waste, promoting eco-friendly fabrics and local savoir-faire all the while working with family companies and nurturing collaborations

with artists that share the same convictions.

Guillaume Michel’s choice of raw materials and concentration on limited editions or one of a kind pieces support the house’s eco-friendly approach to fashion. The pieces combine aesthetics with awareness of today’s environmental and social issues.

Iris Cantabri’s boudoir-like boutique is located in the heart of the Marais and in and of itself offers a journey into a world of unique decor and enticing colours providing the perfect setting for clothing of freedom and spontaneity that embodies a natural urban chic style.

Inside the shop one discovers the clothing through iridescent trousers, wavy short dresses, with the fashions rendered in colourful fabrics including bold combinations like green and pink. There are endearing and appealing pieces in minimalistic white splashed with patterns or colour blocks in yellow, acid green or ultramarine blue in the style of the street artist Peeta. These elements are grafted onto technical materials that are finalised with ultrasounds and associated with natural fibres outfitted with trimmings.

There are lively and elegant pieces in ice blue prints, slightly transparent hounds tooth, and fluid crepe or with 3D stitching and bold use of trimmings.

IRIS CANTABRI 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th) 01 70 23 93 23 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 33

SHOPPING Fashion

Dressing Up in Diamonds and Fur Photographer: Alex Fadel Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Make-Up and Hair Stylist: Julie Mandin Models: Dina Shalaby from IMG Models Special thanks to the Prince de Galles Hotel

Michael Kors fur coat Chanel Joaillerie white gold and diamond necklace, earrings and cuff bracelet 34 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

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Yves Salomon fur vest Damiani rose gold, diamond and amethyst earrings and rose gold, diamond and quartz ring Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch

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Milady fur jacket de Grisogono grey gold, diamond and emerald necklace and earrings, and white gold, emerald and blue sapphire ring w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 37

Barbara Bui fur coat Damiani white gold and diamond earrings Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust 28 watch

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Sprung Frères fur jacket (Available at Galeries Lafayette) Harry Winston platinum, diamond, sapphire and aquamarine necklace, bracelet, earrings and ring

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Milady fur jacket Messika white gold and diamond necklace, earrings and ring 40 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

Sam Rone fur jacket Piaget grey gold, diamond and sapphire necklace and cuff bracelet w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 41

Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS

Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Abriza - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.43.87.74.69. M° Opera Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

BOOKS & MUSIC

FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

GORKY ANTIQUITÉS

| Jewellery & Watches

42 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th),

CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Gresley Paris - 24 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.33.35.81. M° Pyramides Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine

WEMPE

Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Y’s Yohji Yamamoto - 25 rue du Louvre (1st), 01.42.21.42.93. M° Etienne Marcel Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (1st),

09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

EYE WEAR

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

FABRICS: COUTURE

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME

Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66.

M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13.

M° Concorde

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12.

M° Madeleine Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78.

M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

| Jewellery & Watches

SHOPPING

Address Book

Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd),

JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9 ), th

01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77.

M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries

By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00.

M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Château Euphorie - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.49.52.09.14. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gorky Antiquités - 18 rue Duphot (1st) , 01.42.60.22.76. M° Concorde Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIU

01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 48 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.47.20.48.48. M° George V Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1 ), st

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine

Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) ,

01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39.

M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine

| Jewellery & Watches

01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde

Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

LINGERIE

LUGGAGE AND BAGS

Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th),

01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

GARLAND

| Jewellery & Watches w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 43

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

Place de

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

•

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Christofle

•

CONCORDE

• RUE ROYALE

Jeu de Paume ■

•

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE

•

MADELEINE

• Wempe • Vertu • Rochas • Lancaster • Tory Burch • Max Mara

•

Marella

• Français O T Gorky PH •

MA

U

DE LEI NE

Chanel CA MB ON Hedgren RU E CA MB ON • Max&Moi • • • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • Jamin • Kiton Messika• • Hervé Maison Puech Léger Tommy • Coach • Abriza Morabito• Hilfiger • Alexander McQueen Chloé• • Brioni Ports • •Emporio Armani DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •David Morris Tasaki Arije Bally • J.M. • • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST

EV

INES

APUC

DES C

RUE

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

•Saint Honoré •M.A.C Notify•

AV

EN

UE

L DE

’OP

ÉR

A

• De Fursac

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

• Gresley

ivk

a

L’O

• Kam’s

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PALAIS ROYAL

E

DE

id •A •Q ier L nna u R e

AV

E NU

Acaba •

RUE RICHELIEU

RUE RICHELIEU

•D

Printemps du Louvre

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•Cotélac

•

• RedLine

Opéra Garnier

•

•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil

FreyWille

•

Place du Marché Saint-Honoré

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

Vivienne • Westwood

SHOP STOP

•

ES

•

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

420 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 49 63 www.rochas.com

CIN

Carrousel du Louvre

ONORÉ

The Kooples •

PU

ROCHAS Rochas, the famous Parisian house presents its menswear line in a new pop-up store located at the heart of Paris. With clean yet poetic lines, occasional rock or couture influences, the collection reinvents the traditional men’s wardrobe.

RUE S A IN T -H

Colette • Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • La Prairie •

CA

Garland RUE DE LA PA IX

ONORÉ

Montagut

Kiehl’s•

ES

Vendôme

•Dodo Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka • •Moynat TUILERIES Jack Russell • Burma • • Perrin •Stuart Weitzman Ami • • Balenciaga Missoni•

• Barbara Rihl

DD

Place

Goyard •

•Dubail

AR

•

RUE S A IN T -H

RUE DE RIVOLI

UL

IG LI ON E

BO

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

SHOP STOP

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling • Lipault

LA

ED

RU

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Carel • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

Le Jacquard

Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi• Parakian Paris •RU E

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

• Oliver Grant

DE

Césaire

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

VD

WEMPE

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

Burberry

•

BL

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE DE RIVOLI

■

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

Musée de l’Orangerie

Poiray • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

•

•

•

•

Espace Cachemire

•

• •

•

• •

•

•

RUE DU LOUVR E

Bonpoint IRO

R

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

Hartford

KI

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

Maje

OU

• • •

by Terry Xavier Lust

Place des Victoires

PS

’AB

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

•

• • • • • • • •

rre Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

Pie

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

ED

44 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

Musée du Louvre

0039 Italy

RU

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

Francesco Russo

Co

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

RUE DE VALOIS

•

RUE DE RIVOLI

Galerie de Valois

RUE VIVIENNE

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

Palais Royal

Galerie de Montpensier

▼

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide.

We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

ISTO

E CEA

U

Dinh Van • Hugo Boss

MA R

RUE

LLOT

AVE

NUE

UE

Kenzo

OT UE EN AV

• GrandOptical

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

OIS 1 ER

FRAN Ç

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE

DOR

OCCA

DU B

RUE

EA

NG

OU

JO

N

RUE

DE B ERR Elysées I Shopping

• •M.A.C. •Furla • Elysées •Tissot Horlogerie • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE

LA B

OÉT

IE

• Chanel • J.M. Weston • RUE DU CO

LIS Disney ÉE

• Quicksilver Château Euphorie

•Galerie 26

•Adidas • Banana

Republic

• Weleda • Les Champs d’Or

EJ EA

AVEN

NG OU JO N

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

LT

FRA

Grand Palais

Elysées Joaillerie

•

UE M

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RU

AVE

NUE

FRA

WA

• Marionnaud Paris

ELT

IN NKL

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.

EVE

OOS

D.R

• Swarovski

•

•

EJ

1ER NUE

AVE

IN NKL

• Cartier

Montblanc

GEORGE V Louis Vuitton•

U

CEA

RU

ALBERT

46 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

COURS

18 rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 58 12 06 72 www.jlcopticien.com

NFÉRENCE

In the heart of “Le triangle d’or” which is THE area in Paris for luxury shopping, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Dita, Thom Browne, Mykita, Dior, Chanel, Oliver Peoples and more...

E

RUE BALZAC

Armani Collezioni Corneliani PIER • GE V • Lacoste • RE 1 ER DE S OR Omega • ERB E GE U IE N Eric Bompard• AVE • Bvlgari Dubail Ellie • Longchamp • Zegna • Saab U Leonard Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • • EA C • • R Christofle Creed MA Altan Bottier RUE UE • EN • • PIE•Les Suites AV RRE Arije • CHA Cartier •Givenchy Kusmi V RRO • E G Tea • N Rolex Scabal • GEOR • Chaumet Dubail NUE • Beretta Cercle E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Arabian • Delacre • Oud • Burma R • Sicis Franck • RUE MARB• • •Tom Ford UE PI •Carvil EUF ERR Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE •Balenciaga RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • A TR R • Vionnet É U M E M• • Smalto

By Marie&Gas Bijoux OILL A E Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain Karl Graf • • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld ALMA MARCEAU Zadig&Voltaire • Caron• Valentino Davidor • AVE • Thomas • Harry N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello IGNAN E MAR E Dior RUE D Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli • Joseph• • Nina Ricci PSG • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MON • Givenchy TA Fendi • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe • Van Pucci•• •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Dolce&Gabbana •• Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine ST Dupont PORT DE LA CO

JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER

•

CH

RUE DE PONTHIEU

SHOP STOP

HO

• Milady

AR

EM

NU

E AV

•

EN

SANO

AV

E BAS

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

RUE D

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

U EM AR CEA AV EN U

ALILÉ

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ND

RUE G

NA

’IÉ UE D

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CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

Publicis Drugstore • Lancel •

N

AVE

AV

A EDL

Galerie-Musée Baccarat

N

FRI

■

RUE DE CHAI

63 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 43 59 59 59 www.arabianoud.fr

NA

NA

AHO

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

D’IÉ

D’IÉ

AC M

DE

NUE

AVE

M NUE

NUE AVE

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SHOP STOP

ARABIAN OUD

NUE

AVE

DOUX

ALILÉ

Place des États-Unis

71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 64 09 90 www.dubail.fr

On the most famous avenue in the French capital you will find the intoxicating scents of Arabian Oud. This perfume house showcases an array of perfumes with strong notes of agar wood, musk, incense and scented oils.

AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

RUE G

O

AVENUE KLÉBER

Fabio Caviglia•

DUBAIL CHAMPS-ELYSÉES

Arc de Triomphe

UG

N

AVENUE KLÉBER

Take a walk on Champs Elysées and enter Dubail’s latest venue, take time to discover IWC’s 2 latest limited editions for Dubail. You are spoilt for a choice between the 18ct rose gold Portugieser Perpetual Calendar and the stainless steel one (25 pieces out of 18 ct rose gold at 39 900 € VAT incl. and 50 pieces out of stainless steel at 29 200 € VAT incl.).

H

LAUR

FOC

RUE

RN

NUE

AV Marina • ENUE VIC Rinaldi TOR H

CA

AVE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

SHOP STOP

ATIG

NON

CERCLE DE SOINS POUR HOMME

Men are increasingly attentive to their well-being and appearance. As a pioneer in men’s care, DELACRE relies on more than 20 years of experience to help them attain the results they want. A unique concept for hair dressing and grooming exclusively for men, a prestigious location and unrivalled expertise, along with truly personalized services: DELACRE is the premier salon for Parisian and globetrotting elites.

• Diagnosis for grooming and hair care (hair and scalp), cut, style and personal care program • Traditional shave with master barber techniques • Manicure and nail care • Exclusive care techniques, using natural or high-tech methods • Targeted eye care treatments • Toning massage and hair removal • Foot care and reflexology...

THE DELACRE TURKISH BATH AND SAUNA OFFER THE PERFECT EXTRA TOUCH TO THE SALON EXPERIENCE.

GROOMING FOR MEN 17 avenue George V, PARIS 8th - www.cercledelacre.com VALET SERVICE, SHOE POLISH, BAR LOUNGE RESTAURANT RESERVATION: +33 (0)1 40 70 99 70 cercle delacre cre et Marc Delacre

cercledelacre

cercle_delacre

LUXURY MAP Vendôme SHOP STOP

Gare Saint-Lazare

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE

E

Passage du Havre

•

BOU

S

Le Carré d’Encre

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

Opéra Garnier

INS

•

Sephora

ARTI CAUM

RUE

HUR

• Fragonard •

J.M. Weston• Gorky Antiquités Tommy Hedgren • B O N Hilfiger AM

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

•Bally • • • IKKS RU

DA

U

EL OU

NO

RUE

RU

DES

C AP

UCI

NES

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

ES

AI

D’

ON

AN

-H

TIN

NT

T LLE JUI 29

UL

H

MP

S

•

OC S

DE MI RA

ES RU

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É

ED U

OR

D’A

ON

LG

-H

ER

NT

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EM ÉH

E IÉR UD

E RU PY

AI

RU

HA

T-R

SO

IN

LA

SA

DE E RU

ES

Penhaligon’s • Mulberry •

S-C

Tourist Office • PYRAMIDES

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

RU

Perrin •

RU

NE IO GL TI

AS

ED

Piquadro

• • •Valérie Danenberg Missoni Honoré •Saint •Ami ••M.A.C • Bonpoint Colette

R

É

RU

BO

OR

HA

ON

T-T

-H

ON

NT

EC

AI

48 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

UM

ES

12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

ED

• Jovoy

• Frank Namani

Montagut • • Dodo • Moynat • Balenciaga Paule Ka•

RU

•

•

RU

•

•

•

Le Macaron Ladurée

RU

É

RU

E

OR

H.Stern Arije

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking.

The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

Boggi

E

•Gant • •

RU

•

BUCHERER PARIS

Lancel

• • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

•Basler Waskoll Hackett Omega A. Lange • • Christofle Harmont & Blaine & Söhne • C • Repetto E U Garland R Corthay Y • Lalique E Cartier Harrison • • OLN Piaget • Diesel V • Yumi Katsura Hugo Boss • U E Panerai • Bodum • R Jimmy Choo X •Dinh Van I IWC • PA Burma • A Alexander McQueen Louis Vuitton Van Cleef • D E L • Lery • & Arpels • E • Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier • RU • Jaquet Droz Dubail Dior Bvlgari • Anshindo • Damiani Miki • •Vacheron Constantin House Graff • • • • • • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Diamond’s Jaeger- Rolex • • R UE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU • • ST Breguet • Hublot RU • Zadig & ED Dior Patek Philippe Place du Marché FreyWille • ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz Lydia Courteille

▼

SHOP STOP

L’Occitane

D

I AR D VI

R U E ÈD OU

•Zwilling

•

IBE

• Episode Golfino OPÉRA • Bucherer Tag Heuer Loding • Montblanc Abriza •Mario Dessuti • • ••

AN

RUE

Exaltation

• Le Tanneur

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

18 rue Duphot - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 22 76 gorky@gorkyantiq.com www.gorkyantiq.com

MAT

RUE BOUDREA U

N

GOD

OT D

RUE

MADELEINE Église de la Madeleine

DES

EM

VIGN

AUR

ON

OY

CH ON TR E

RUE

R

RU

•

BE

Paraboot• • Eres

ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet U EA

SHOP STOP

LEV

•

GR

URIN

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

LE

ATH

CE

Andrea

T

IS

ES M

Galeries Lafayette Homme

• Moda di

RU E JO UB ER

ES CR

DE CA RU ED

P R O V EN

RU

’AR

ET

R

UE

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40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/ th

A member of the Syndicat National des Antiquaires, Gorky Antiquités specialises in Napoleon III, Art Nouveau, Belle Epoque, Art Déco, Retro, signed jewellery and Russian pieces.

After 30 years at the Louvre des Antiquaires, Gorky Antiquités opened its new gallery boutique in the 1st arrondissement in 2016.

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Printemps Beauté-Maison HAVRE- • Guerlain • CAUMARTIN Cerruti

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

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Open from Monday to Saturday: 10am-7.30pm Sunday: 12:30pm-6:30pm 24 Avenue de l’Opéra, Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 35 81 www.gresley.fr

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11 rue de l’Arrivée - Paris 15th www.montparnasserivegauche.com 50 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

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Montparnasse Rive Gauche is a premier destination for a great shopping and dining experience. In the heart of Paris enjoy the famous retailers such as Galeries Lafayette, C&A, Nature & Découvertes, Lacoste... At the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower at the visit panoramic.

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Poiray • Liu Jo BO Christian RUE U • Façonnable L • E VA DE L Louboutin Stella • ’A B RD Louis B AY • SAI • Agent Luna Etro • E N Vuitton T • -GE Provocateur Sonia • • R • M Brunello • A Rykiel Moncler •BurberryI N Cucinelli Ralph Hugo Emporio • SAINT-GERMAIN Voyeurs • Lauren • Paul Smith • Boss DES-PRÉS Armani Paul & • Ami BOU • Shadé • Césarée Joe • • • LEV • De Fursac L.K. ARD • Y’s Stefanel• Cartier SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON • Hackett• Crockett & Jones Alexis Mabille Montblanc • • Kenzo • • Gas Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Bijoux Saint Laurent• L’Ibis Rouge • O U R Silk & • DU F RUE • Cashmere Sportmax• Prada • • Tod’s Marina Rinaldi Max&Moi • • U FOUR La Perla • Alain Mikli • D • Durance RUE M.A.C.• Dot-Drops • • Repetto Le Mont Implicite Omega Lampe S Berluti • • • ÉVRE Berger Paris Saint Saint Michel • DE S • • E U RUE DE BABYLONE • R Agnès b Laurent •• • Longines Camper Lancaster • SU LP IC E T• Frey Wille IN SA SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp RUE • • Eléonore • Hermès Emaldi Robert • E IC Galet • LP U Clergerie -S SAINT-SULPICE Zadig ST E U R Le Bon Loxwood S & Voltaire E • Marché S É V R

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10 rue de Grenelle - Paris 6th, Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 11 28 44 rue Etienne Marcel - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 49 46 26 rue Danielle Casanova - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 97 58 80 www.gasbijoux.com

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Faienceries • de Gien

RUE BON A PA

BOULEV

GAS BIJOUX Side by side with Gas family, 65 artisans of the historical workshop in Marseille give life to this precious jewelry, all handcrafted in limited edition.

Together, they elevate the “chic solaire”, the spirit of the House since its birth in Saint-Tropez in 1969.

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• John Lobb Gallais • Bang • & Olufsen AI NT Edward Green • -G Zadig & Voltaire Roche Bobois• ER MA • Karl Lagerfeld IN • • Aubercy EV

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Hartwood • Deyrolle The Kooples

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30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 44 07 04 28 www.ateliervalentin-paris.com

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RUE

Atelier Valentin, situated in the heart of Saint-Germain, offers a large selection of glasses and sunglasses, all handcrafted by the most distinguished designers and brands in the world, including Francis Klein, Anne & Valentin, Mykita and Olivier Goldsmith (pictured above). The boutique offers customers original and unique glasses, ensuring you stand out in a crowd.

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Santiago Lomelli•

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Musée d’Orsay

-10 % **

S P E C I A L T O U R I ST O F F E R

WEDNESDAY AGENCY - 44 GL 552 116 329 RCS PARIS

ON PRESENTATION OF THIS ADD AND YOUR FOREIGN PASSPORT BEFORE PAYMENT(1).

-12 % **

T O U R I ST TA X R E F U N D

FOR NON EUROPEAN UNION RESIDENTS ON TOTAL PURCHASE OVER 175€ NET (AFTER DISCOUNTS DEDUCTED) MADE ON THE SAME DAY, IN THE SAME STORE. THE 12% TAX REFUND CAN BE CUMULATED WITH THE 10% DISCOUNT(2).

G A L E R I E S L A F AY E T T E M O N T P A R N A S S E C E N T R E C O M M E R C I A L M O N T P A R N A S S E – 2 2 R U E D U D É PA R T T É L . : 0 1 4 5 3 8 5 2 8 7 – D U L U N D I A U S A M E D I D E 10 H À 2 0 H *The ultimate shopping destination **See store conditions. Voir conditions en magasin. (1) Offre touriste sur présentation de votre passeport étranger avant le paiement en caisse. (2) Détaxe pour tout résident hors Union Européenne. Offre valable à partir de 175€ d’achats nets réalisés le même jour dans le magasin. La détaxe -12 % peut se cumuler à l’offre touriste -10 %.

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FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

Leica •

• Sothys

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• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling E SÈZE

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• Eres • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

•Tom Ford N • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger • Coach • Alexander McQueen • Emporio Armani • Marc Jacobs • David Morris

• Burma Ciro pour

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Lauren • Lancaster •Furla Kenzo• • Max Mara

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52 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

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• •• •Wempe Ralph•

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• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

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Laulhère

Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

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RUE DE RIVOLI

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• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

Yamamoto

14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com

•

Valentino •

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

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Oliver Grant

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• Royal Poiray Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •

• Yohji

This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.

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RUE ROYALE

Jardin des Tuileries

LAULHÈRE

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Lanvin La Perla

•• •

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t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

Place de la Concorde

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

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JANSSENS & JANSSENS In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

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• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel •Bally •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Hogan • Ermenegildo U Zegna ’A N J O Roger Vivier • • • RUE D D’ANJOU RUE Valentino • Janssens Mettez Heurgon • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent • • Crockett Dandys Chanel • Boucheron • &Jones Tod’s • • Givenchy SQUIER • RUE PA Cartier • Alessi Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette •

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Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

SHOP STOP

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26 blvd Malesherbes - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 66 34 21 / www.capelstore.fr

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Luxury ready-to-wear for big and tall men has been the specialty of the French house of Capel for over 60 years now. The collections are the perfect combination of French style, perfect fit, comfort and quality for both business and casual occasions.

The house also carries select brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Paul & Shark and Pal Zileri. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-7pm.

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Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

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•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat Baccarat• • AV

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Faubourg Saint-Honoré

LUXURY MAP Le Marais

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• Merci • OUX Atelier Oska • UX CH Ami • NT A • • Lords&Fools U PO D Cologne French E U SAINT-SÉBASTIEN R Sandro• Tom Greyhound • Trotters • FROISSART • Maison Labiche Florian Robinson Christophe • • P O IT O U Denicourt DE Les Bains A U D E• Lemaire RUE • Saint James •-CL • Pas de Jack Gomme • A I N T Calais • APC S E Stephane U Marcel by R Wooyoungmi Verdino • Weekday• • Customellow • Nice• • Louis Quatorze Eclectic • Things Vanessa Musée National Bruno •Mr • Bonastre •Fred Picasso Marzo • Les Petites • Le Mont Saint Michel • Magnanni • La Fée Maraboutée RU E DE S 4 • FI LS • Consuelo Zoelly IS

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Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch El Ganso

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Place des Vosges

Millen Karen i Parma Acqua d tyque Dip in Guerla

Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay Aesol • ■ The Slowear Store • Hartford ➞ Les Mille Feuilles • Marionnaud Paris • RUE • Emile Lafaurie DES FRAN Penhaligon’s CS BOURGE • Chanel OIS • • Carhartt • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Fragonard • • • Ted Baker ■ • • RU•E DES FRANCS BOUR Mademoiselle Repetto • Muji GEOIS • •• •• ➞ • Iro Jeanne Michael • • • Essentiel Kors Uniqlo Aubade •• • Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston Eres a a Ekyog• •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN d o e UX • &S i T rry et Bimba y Lola • •Maje• Scoth Kusm ed Pe Creus Devernois Iris Cantabri • • Fr Le • Alain Mikli Maison Chanel • • Créa Concept • • L’Argenterie • Francis Kurkdjian Wolford • R U E D ES Cos de Turenne Lipault R O SI ER • • S • Heschung• • • • Moustaches Thomas All Saints RUE DU PLATRE El Ganso • DE JARENTE Cire Sabo • Paule Ka RUEMasha Huygens Sandro• • Trudon • K.Jacques • • J.Crew RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Ugg • Thierry •Carven Keja • Gucci• •John Galliano • Fleux Lacoste • Mode en Villenave Nike RUE D'ORMESSON Givenchy Karl Demeure • Crockett • • •Maje BHV Marais • Valentino & • RUE DU ROI •DE SICILE • Le l’Homme Jones Lagerfeld Moncler • Fendi • Chevignon • TO IN E AN TIN • RU E SA Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E Psyché MX • SAINT-PAUL • RIVOLI E D Finsbury • RUE • Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier • • E RIVOLI RUE

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56/58 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd 28 rue du Temple - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 74 50 05 www.emilelafaurie.com

Nicolaï

APC

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Founded in 1992 in Paris, men’s contemporary fashion designer, Emile Lafaurie, is the go-to lifestyle brand for impeccably tailored clothes and contemporary casual gear for today's man.

Known for signature pieces like the painter coat, the designer specializes in fine fabrics and a refined color palette.

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T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse • Le Labo grenouille

Maison

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White Bird • Bonton•

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• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty • Pierre Meurgey

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106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

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Liquides • April 77

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• Ron Dorff IE March La.B • Mes Demoiselles • • RU E DE BR ET AG NE Popelini •

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Empreintes

Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.

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La Boutique Extraordinaire

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Carreau du Temple ■ The Broken Arm

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7 rue des Rosiers - Paris 4th (100% Men) 19 rue des Francs - Paris 4th (100% Women) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 84 20 95 / www.elganso.com

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Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier

RUE CH

Mémorial de la Shoah

Melodies • • Graphiques • Calligrane

RUE GEOFFROY L'ASNIER

AGNE

Village Saint Paul ■

•Pierre Boisset ■

ARLEM

PONT MARIE

RUE SAINT-PAUL

FRANÇ

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

RUE

RUE DE LOBAU

EL GANSO A brainchild of two brothers from Madrid, El Ganso rapidly established itself on a European and then international level with fashion lovers looking for something different. Blending English classicism, Iberian sparkle and the American preppy look, the clothing and shoe collections on offer shine through their attention to detail, fresh optimism and elegant aesthetics.

HOTEL DE VILLE

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

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w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 53

The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS

By Patricia Valicenti

Discover Leonor Fini’s portraits (opposite page) 54 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2017

Leonor Fini’s Gouache sur papier coloré, 1960 Photo © Sylvie Chan Liat/Galerie Minsky

Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

A Momentary Magical Museum The Biennale des Antiquaires continues to embody a world of refinement, elegance and style. The prestigious event, now called La Biennale Paris, starting this year will be held every year in the French capital and it brings together quite simply the best of the best beneath the gleaming glass cupola of the Grand Palais, turning the venue into an ephemeral museum. The Biennale takes us on a journey into worlds beyond our very own with singular objects, art works and dazzling ornaments from some 90 exhibitors. This year the Hélène Bailly gallery is presenting Pablo Picasso’s Anthropomorphic Landscape in which the artist has hidden a face in the middle of the painting. The Galerie Taménaga will be revealing a mysterious Eve by the great Symbolist Odilon Redon while the Galerie Léage will be presenting exceptional objects and furniture of the 17th and 18th centuries. Meanwhile, the Galerie Kevorkian, which specialises in antiquities, is showing a 6000-year-old marble statue of a mother goddess.

Odilon Redon, Eve Photo © Brad Flowers; Leonor Fini’s Roxane, Gouache sur papier coloré, 1960. Photo ©Sylvie Chan Liat/Galerie Minsky

From September 11 through to September 17 Grand Palais Ave Winston Churchill (8th)

Fini the Fantastic Fun and mysterious creatures, richly coloured portraits, depictions of powerful women or personages of her own making, Leonor Fini is regarded as one of the leading women artists of the 20th century. Born in Buenos Aires in 1907 she spent her childhood in Trieste, Italy with her mother and grandparents who frequented the local intelligentsia, which included the celebrated Irish writer James Joyce.

Painter, designer, illustrator and author, Fini was entirely selftaught. She left Italy for Paris in 1931 and soon was exhibiting her works, notably at the Galerie Bonjean, whose director was Christian Dior. In Paris her circle of friends included Paul Eluard and Max Ernst although she never considered herself to be part of the Surrealist movement. This month the Galerie Minsky is celebrating the artist in a large exhibition of her paintings, drawings and pastels Through to September 30 37 rue Vaneau (7th), 01 55 35 09 00 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 55

GALERIE TAMÉNAGA IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

JEAN-PIERRE CASSIGNEUL The Window Oil on canvas, 92 x 65 cm MODERN MASTERS: Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet...

CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano...

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS

Scooting Around the Town Take in the town on board a handsome Vespa Primavera 50 motor scooter, which can carry one or two people. The scooters are rented out by Freescoot, an original shop specialised in two wheelers and which welcomes you with a cup of coffee.

The Vespa model is equipped with an ecological low-emission 4-valve engine and an LCD display instrument panel. Freescoot provides helmets, gloves, a windbreaker, bike alarms and insurance with the rentals. Larger motorbikes are available if you have a motorcycle license and the shop also rents a wide range of bicycles and tandems.

Open 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 7pm. Closed Sunday and Wednesday.

You can also book online at www.freescoot.com 63 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01 44 07 06 72

Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s.

MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

56 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2017

Paris Region Pass This new pass offers three activities, a cruise on the Seine, a tour in a panoramic tour bus and a visit to the Arc de Triomphe, in the form of a dematerialised bracelet, which is scanned at the entrances to the attractions. The pass costs 50€ offering a saving of 8€ and is available at the Ile de France Tourism stands at the airports of Paris-Roissy Charles de Gaulle and Orly, Galeries Lafayette, Disneyland Paris and Versailles.

iStock photo 2017 © Opolja

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities.

André

Brasi lier

62 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris • T. + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00

Chevaux au soleil couchant, 2013 oil on canvas, 146 x 114 cm

•

paris@operagallery.com • operagallery.com

NEW YORK · MIAMI · ASPEN · LONDON · PARIS · MONACO · GENEVA · DUBAI · BEIRUT · HONG KONG · SINGAPORE · SEOUL

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

A

An Exuberant Exhibition

daring and refined world with bold cuff bracelets, slinky snake earrings, black leather jewellery enhanced with golden inlays, rings depicting women and even a fun gas tube necklace is unfolding in an exuberant exhibition on the edge of town in the Marché Serpette of the Puces of Saint-Ouen.

deliberately pared down tinged with both elegance and simplicity. That was particularly the case for the jewellery made with leather, which was often black and enhanced with golden inlays that were generally studded. Meanwhile, the offbeat can be found in jewellery with head shapes that bring to mind robots and which were created by Isabel Canovas.

Vintage jewellery expert and collector Olwen Forest is presenting an ecstatic selection of jewels in a show fittingly entitled Extatica, which brings together an elegant and joyful selection of pieces.

There are belt buckles on display as well for the belt was an accessory that appealed to designers for it outlined a woman’s waist. The daring selection of buckles on show includes one depicting a naked woman and another depicting an intertwined couple. Hollywood is on the agenda as well with the snake set of jewels created by Joseff of Hollywood and worn by Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra.

The jewellery is often daring, drawing inspiration from myriad horizons. Humour and derision for example leave their mark on the ecstatic approach linked to jewellery design with Coco Chanel inventing accessories that were both funny and offbeat like chain jewellery and bracelets decorated with charms.

“These charms could take the shape of small handbags, high-heeled shoes, Cupid, four-leaf clovers or Chanel N°5 perfume bottles,” explains Olwen Forest.

Leather, too, was an inspiration as witnessed in a dog collar necklace by Chanel and a cuff bracelet designed by Givenchy.

These incentive jewels, which even transgress, were worn at the time with outfits that were 58 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2017

“All of these designers travelled a lot in the middle of the last century,” comments Olwen Forest, “They learned about other cultures, they opened themselves up to the world.”

Olwen Forest has compared jewellery to the colourful candies of her childhood and exuberant shades of red and coral emerge in several of the pieces on display. There is a lively enamelled brooch in the shape of kissing lips in bright, bright red, a necklace in berry red pâte de verre by Gripoix for Chanel and also from Gripoix for Chanel a hammered cuff bracelet

with an elaborate inlay in coral red coloured pâte de verre as well.

EXTATICA EXHIBITION Through to December 31 Sat from 9:30am to 5:30pm, Sun from 10:30am to 5:30pm, and Mon from 11am-4pm PUCES OF SAINTOUEN Marché Serpette Allée 3, stands 5, 6 & 7 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01 40 11 96 38

From left to right, from top to bottom: Cuff bracelet in leather signed Givenchy Photo © Frédéric Poletti; Enamelled Kiss brooch Photo © Frédéric Poletti; Set of jewels with a snake theme created by Joseff of Hollywood for the movie Cleopatra with Elizabeth Taylor Photo © Frédéric Poletti; Charm bracelet symbolic of Chanel Photo © Frédéric Poletti; Ring depicting a naked woman, front and back views, signed Slievon Photos © Frédéric Poletti ; Olwen Forest © Astrid di Crollalanza

Exhibitions

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Pair of earrings representing peacocks, Pakistan, 1st/2nd centuries © Jacques How-Choong, photo Silvia Bataille; Pierre sacrée Maoris, Hei tiki (pendentif anthropomorphe). Don de Leo Buller, 1911.© Kura Pounamu marketing images Te Papa. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa

Exhibitions

A Fabulous Journey A 15th century sitting Buddha from the Kingdom of Lanna in Thailand, cosmic theoretical maps from India and a red feather headdress from Papua New-Guinea are just some of the works to discover at the Parcours des Mondes, the international show devoted to the tribal arts. This journey into the diversity of the arts of Africa, the Americas, Asia and Oceania offers a showcase for exceptional pieces from dozens of galleries and exhibitors from around the world while featuring thematic exhibitions ranging from the Bambara people of Mali to war clubs of the South Pacific. This year contemporary tribal arts are on the agenda for the first time and French Polynesia is being honoured this year with conferences, film projections and an exhibition revolving around the ancestral and ancient art of the tapa cloth. The exhibitions are hosted in and by art galleries throughout the Beaux-Arts quarter of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood.

From September 12th through to September 17th Information point at Galerie Frédéric Moisan 72 rue Mazarine (6th), 01 49 26 95 44

Sacred Stones The greenstone of New Zealand is being showcased in an exhibition at the Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac entitled The Sacred Stone of the Maori. The stone, known as pounamu, which refers to three types of stone, nephrite jade, bowenite and serpentinite, is mainly found in the southwest of the archipelago and is at the heart of numerous beliefs, stories and legends of the Maori people. The show’s path travels through 5 sequences spanning several centuries and presents 200 rare taonga (treasures) carved in this precious mineral including a collection of 96 hei tiki, which are pendants in human form, 20 mere, which are short flat clubs and 4 touchstones. All of these objects channel their possessor’s mana, a sacred force inherited from the divinities and embodied by people of high rank. The show was designed by the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa and the Ngai Tahu iwi (tribe) and highlights the rich collections of the New Zealand museum.

Through to October 1 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01 56 61 70 00 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 59

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

Marvels There is a pair of terracotta buffaloes fashioned over 4000 years ago by the Neolithic Qijia culture as well as a pouring vessel in the shape of a bird of the same era.

These objects are found alongside an extremely rare cup on a pedestal in fragile black terracotta known as eggshell from the province of Shandong of the Longshan culture that dates back to the second half of the third millennium B.C., making up the Neolithic marvels being presented by the Galerie Christian Deydier in an exhibition entitled Treasures from Ancient China. This rare ensemble of Chinese Neolithic and funerary objects emanates mainly from the Longshan, Qijia, Xiajiadian and Siwa cultures. The most remarkable pieces are the pouring vessels in the shape of birds and animals some of which have eyes incrusted with seashells.

Into the Empire An exhibition revolving around toys of the First French Empire is being held at the Atelier Grognard in Rueil-Malmaison, in parallel with the Imperial Jubilee weekend in Rueil-Malmaison, the town outside of Paris where Napoleon Bonaparte and the Empress Josephine had a chateau. The toy exhibition presents a selection of antique toys as well as toys and games that have been conceived on the theme of the First French Empire. Visitors can enjoy a table football game with soldiers of the Empire as well as a giant puzzle in which one and all can participate. Meanwhile, during the Imperial weekend held in various venues throughout the town on the weekend of September 23rd and 24th, concerts, events, illuminations, tastings and reconstitutions all related to the First Empire are on the agenda.

Exhibition from September 4 through to October 30 Atelier Grognard 6 ave du Château de Malmaison, 92500 Rueil-Malmaison, 01 47 14 11 63 60 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2017

Longshan cup Photo © Galerie Christian Deydier; Imperial Jubilee in Rueil-Malmaison photo © DR-Rueil-Malmaison

From September 13 through to September 30 30 rue de Seine (6th), 01 40 20 97 34

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-11pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77.

M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Although the monument is empty, a HistoPad can be rented to vision detailed 360° reconstitutions. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€. Combined ticket with the Sainte-Chapelle 15€. Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free.

2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the 62 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2017

world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (7-17€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm.

Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11 pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 . M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER-OPÉRA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture.

Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:00am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Through to September 24th Mozart, une passion française, this exhibition is devoted to Mozart and his presence on the French lyrical scene.

Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

PANTHÉON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Jan-Mar & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.paris-pantheon.fr 6 pl du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00.

M° Cardinal-Lemoine

SACRÉ COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking.

Jardin des Tuileries: iStockphoto 2017 © hdoggrafix

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

The Tuileries Garden

There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09.

M° Anvers

Château de Rambouillet, façades sur jardin et façade sur le grand canal © Patrick Cadet Centre des monuments nationaux

SAINTE-CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. JanMar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time.10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26.

2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens.

Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

CHATEAU DE RAMBOUILLET This beautiful castle is located in the heart of 20,000 hectares of woodlands. There are French and Anglo-Chinese gardens on the grounds along with Marie Antoinette’s dairy and a shell cottage.

From September 16 through to January 21 Portrait de famille: les princes de Rambouillet, portraits of the Bourbon-Toulouse-Penthièvre family, the 18th century owners of the domain.

Open daily except Tuesdays; Jan-Mar & Oct-Dec 9:50am-noon/1:50pm-5pm; Apr-Sept 9:50am-noon/1:50pm-6pm. 3.50€, free for EU citizens under 26. www.chateau-rambouillet.fr 78120 Rambouillet, 01 34 83 00 25.

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Address Book

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris

Paris Flea Market

18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Opera Gallery

Carré Rive Gauche

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing.

5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history.

Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.

01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble

by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.

PARIS FLEA MARKET | Areas & Markets 64 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2017

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

ATTRACTIONS

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Flight Experience Paris

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere.

The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day.

Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

Canal Saint-Martin

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Catacombes de Paris

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th), 01.43.22.47.63. M° Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04.

M° Quai de la Gare

France Miniature

This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature.

The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Attractions, educational tools and a restaurant offering regional specialties round out the agenda. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

Grande Arche

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop are all on the agenda. Daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20.

M° La Défense Grande Arche

La Mer de Sable

Located in an exceptional natural setting, this adventure-filled park offers a fine day out for the whole family with 30 attractions and a host of fun activities. There are four major shows including two featuring horses, encounters with animals, themed restaurants and the park is less than an hour from Paris. 60950 Ermenonville, 03.44.54.00.96.

GRANDE ARCHE | Attractions

Grande Arche ©iStock

AREAS & MARKETS

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

From Paris take the North Autoroute A1, direction Ermenonville then take exit 7

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm.

18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Asterix

This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park.

Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).

Paris Story

A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25.

M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Pavillons de Bercy

Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

BOAT CRUISES Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm).

Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

Palais de la Découverte ©G. Leimdorfer

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris

monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm.

For dinner cruises please see the Dining section.

Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm.

08.25.05.01.01

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart.

Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

DAY TRIPS Auvers sur Oise

The French countryside and the village where Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are just 27 km from Paris. In town you can visit a 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-Oise (about 1 hr 15 min)

Chartres

The town of Chartres is known for its splendid cathedral with magnificent stained glass windows. You can also visit the Centre International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum devoted to stained glass which is unique in Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm.

Château de Fontainebleau

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

CHÂTEAU DE VAUX LE VICOMTE | Museums & Fondations

Château de Versailles

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection.

Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris.

Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet.

84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

GARDENS Jardin d’Acclimatation

A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm.

Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons

Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book

for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures

by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

GUIDED TOURS L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. Enjoy Paris by day or night, champagne in Montmartre, historic landmarks, luxurious places, secret neighbourhoods, tailor-made tours. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com

MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries

JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG | Gardens 66 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2017

d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Espace Dali

In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm.

261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation.

Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts.

Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm.

1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38.

M° Jussieu

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

Mona Bismarck American Center

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent

Musée d’Orsay

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de ParisLe Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm.

Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to

MUSÉE RODIN | Museums & Fondations

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39.

M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm.

107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities.

Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée du Vin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural

center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Palais Galliera Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum.

Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Musée Grévin A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05.

M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée Marmottan Monet A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Musée Picasso A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel.

Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm.

79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

MUSEUM NATIONAL D’HISTOIRE NATURELLE | Museums & Fondations

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie.

Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm.

Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Monnaie de Paris This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm.

11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Palais de la Découverte This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century.

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm.

Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00.

M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets.

Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm.

Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

MUSÉE DE LA VIE ROMANTIQUE | Museums & Fondations w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 67

The Guide

DINING

Al Fresco Dining | French Fare | Chocolate | Brasseries | Fine Dining Dine at the Le Saint James Paris private club and hotel (opposite page)

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DINING

Restaurants

Private Dining Le Saint James Paris hotel in the 16th arrondissement, a handsome limestone mansion that is both a hotel and a private club, though the general public can dine in the handsome dining room here, gives one the impression of getting away from it all in just the space of a cab ride. From the moment you’re seated here, service is gracious and charming, and chef Jean-Luca Rocha, a M.O.F. (maître ouvrier de France, the highest award given to the country’s tradesmen and women) is an exceptionally talented chef whose cooking consistently exhibits a delicious equilibrium between tradition and innovation. Start with the vegetable couscous with marinated oysters and langoustines or the foie gras in a candied sesame crust with pickled vegetables and melon sorbet, and then go with the veal sweetbreads with rhubarb and girolles mushrooms or roasted lobster in a spiced bouillon of its own coral. Don’t miss the cheese course here, since it comes from Quatrehomme, one of the best cheese shops in Paris, and finish up with the very original raspberries with Pimentón-flavoured mousse and sponge, lemon caramel and raspberry sorbet. – Alexander Lobrano Le Saint James Paris 43 ave Bugeaud (16th), 01 45 05 81 81

Coffret Diane Renaissance Edition Limitée © Eric Lamy

Fine French Chocolate While visiting France, indulging in fine French chocolate is a prerequisite and one of the finest chocolatiers to discover is Debauve & Gallais. The French chocolate manufacturer once supplied fine chocolate to Emperor Napoléon and kings Louis XVII, Charles X and Louis Philippe after receiving the royal warrant and becoming the official chocolate supplier to the French court. In the chocolatier’s Left Bank boutique you can get a taste of the same chocolate that was once served to royalty, making your stop very regal. Try the chocolate truffles or the Marie-Antoinette’s Pistoles, the dark chocolate disks that are delicately flavoured with coffee or vanilla, or why not opt for a chocolate box with different chocolates to devour. - S.I. Debauve & Gallais 30 rue des Saints-Pères (7th), 01 45 48 54 67 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 69

DINING

Restaurants

Fine French Fare One of the great pleasures of Paris is people watching, which is why a meal taken in a strategically located restaurant often includes a show as well as dinner. This is what I was thinking during a very good supper at Le Congrès Maillot, a popular brasserie serving good quality traditional French cooking that makes it as popular with Parisians as it is with foreigners. Comfortably seated at a corner table surrounded by big picture windows, we were treated to a fascinating pageant of mostly happy human dramas, intriguing faces and occasionally striking clothing.

The show in the dining room itself was equally good, too, since an African diplomat and his wife were eagerly enjoying dinner to our left, “I dream of these big plump scallops from one visit to France to the next,” said the elegantly dressed woman to her husband in a natty suit, while to our left a Spanish family were eagerly supping on oysters, Chateaubriand with Béarnaise sauce and tiny butter-braised potatoes, steak tartare and smoked salmon. And us? Big plump, incredibly fresh prawns, two different types of Breton oysters, grilled sole with olive oil-enriched potato puree, and the same juicy Chateaubriand with velvety Béarnaise sauce that was making the African gent so happy. Finish up with the Baba au rhum, which is doused with Saint James rum from Martinique, or the floating island, and note that the wine list offers an excellent selection of bottles from all over France for very fair prices. – A.L. Le Congrès Maillot 80 ave de la Grande Armée (17th), 01 45 74 17 24

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DINING

Restaurant Advertorial

SANTOOR Indian Cuisine / Paris 8th This charming restaurant offers fine halal gourmet Indian cuisine. Specializing in tandoori (Indian barbecue) and curries, both spicy and mild, served in beautiful surroundings with silk paintings and antique-style carved wooden crafts. Two minutes walk from the Champs-Elysées. Open every day, Mondays-Saturdays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for dinner.

30 rue Marbeuf, Paris 8th Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: +33 (0)1 42 56 33 18 www.restaurant-indien-santoor.fr

LA TRUFFIÈRE Cuisine d’Auteur / Paris 5th Chef Christophe Poard offers up a creative and modern cuisine based on the seasons of the various kinds of truffles. There is a wine list with some 4,200 offerings and which has received the Best of Award of Excellence from the Wine Spectator. Come and discover the ABCs of Wine boutique featuring the table arts and a wine cellar. Lunch from 40€, Dinner from 65€/ 95€ on Saturdays.

4 rue de Blainville - Paris 5th Mº Place Monge (line 7) or RER B: Luxembourg Tel: +33 (0)1 46 33 29 82 www.latruffiere.com

LUNCH & DINNER CRUISES SIGHTSEEING CRUISES Discover the spirit of Paris from the River Seine…

Located at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, Bateaux Parisiens provides every day an intense and tasty journey along the most beautiful of Parisian boulevards. Embark aboard its entirely glassed-over boats for a unique cultural and gastronomic experience. www.bateauxparisiens.com • +33 (0)1 76 64 14 45 Bateaux Parisiens, a

company

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DINING

Restaurant Advertorial

LE BISTROT DU LOUCHÉBEM

LE LOUCHÉBEM

Traditional French cuisine

Traditional French cuisine

47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 04 10 4Unlimited carpaccio: 25.90€ 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr

431 rue Berger, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 12 99 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr

Succulent meats from the butcher are to be savoured here. Inventive, refined appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured Camembert are worth the detour.

The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm.

The pot roast salad is superb and the unique all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham and leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.

BREAKFAST IN AMERICA

WEPLER Traditional French cuisine 414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18 / Metro: Place de Clichy 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 22 53 24 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30€ 4Set-menu 24.50€ 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com th

A full menu for all your lunches and dinners: one of the finest French Onion soups in the capital, seafood plates or traditional house dishes as Fish from the market or Andouillette AAAAA , our restaurant has something for everyone .

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This quintessential les Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes.

The "Original" American Diner in Paris!

4BIA 1: 17 rue des Ecoles, Paris 5th 4BIA 2: 4 rue Malher, Paris 4th 4Open 7 days a week - 8:30am - 11pm 4Lunch menus, Mon-Fri, 10.95€ & 8.95€ (students) 4Sunday Brunch served all day 4www.breakfast-in-america.com

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes... and much more!

Hand in this ad to receive 10% off when you order Breakfast Anytime off our menu!

Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise.

Enjoy an appetizer of crayfish followed by poultry with zucchini flowers, then cheese and dessert.

Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro

(€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04.

M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted freerange chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy.

The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann

Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast).

There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Chacha Club - Classic French (€€)

This restaurant offers up a great atmosphere that includes an outdoor terrace with a smart view in good weather. Starters include raviolis of Royan in a creamy broth or foie gras with homemade apricot jam while for a main course sample the tagliatelle with smoked salmon or lamb chops with mashed potatoes. There is a cheese board and a host of delectable desserts. Wed-Sun D. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01.40.13.12.12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef JeanFrançois Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Kinugawa - Japanese (€€€)

Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries

La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary

(€€€)

Two minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal

contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Bistrot de Louchébem - Classic French (€)

Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the housemade foie gras or the warm goat cheese salad.

Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L & D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Louchébem - Bistro (€)

Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20.

M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

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LE CÉLADON | Gourmet (2nd)

DINING

Address Book

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad.

4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17 century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry.

Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45.

Mº Saint-Paul th

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s

by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite.

Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31.

Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00.

Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Taokan - Chinese (€€€)

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° Saint-Sulpice

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha.

Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas.

Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11.

Mº Sèvres Babylone A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest.

Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine.

Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire

Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables,

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LA MÉDITERRANÉE | Seafood (6th)

JULES VERNE | Haute Cuisine (7th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 77

DINING

Address Book Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star.

Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm.

5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Le Restaurant du Cinq Codet - Classic French (€€) Enjoy savoury and authentic cuisine in a warm atmosphere in this restaurant serving classic French cuisine. The menu revolves around the seasons and includes homemade desserts. A snack menu is served everyday throughout the day. MonSat L& D, Sun, L only, snack menu in the evening.

5 rue Louis Codet (7th), 01.53.85.15.60. M° Ecole Militaire

Les Ombres - Contemporary

(€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli.

Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00.

Mº Alma-Marceau

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space.

7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region.

Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Adrien Trouilloud serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Mon-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L only.

17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

La Table du Lancaster - Gourmet (€€€€)

This delightful one-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Mon-Fri L&D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18.

Mº George V

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine.

Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)

Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons.

Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99.

Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms.

Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. For starters try the refreshing gazpacho or asparagus with Parmesan cheese and radishes. Main dishes can include salmon with wild rice or a filet of Black Angus beef while cheesecake and a raspberry based pastry are stars of the dessert menu. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)

The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips.

Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

MANKO PARIS | Peruvian (8th) 78 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau

YEELS | Contemporary (8th)

DINING

Address Book Café Pouchkine - Café (€)

This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Wepler - Brasserie (€)

Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€)

Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille

East Mamma - Italian (€)

This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes can be ordered for one or for four and are served in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin

Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th)

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie

restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff.

Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood

(€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91.

Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea

bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet, 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Reminisens

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries.

The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

EAST MAMMA | Italian (11th)

L’OPERA RESTAURANT | Contemporary (9th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 79

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Sip on a cool cocktail at the Buddha-Bar Hotel (page 82)

80 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

Caribean Way © Bernard Radvaner

Shows | Concerts | Musicals | Nightclubs | Cabarets | Gentlemen’s Clubs

ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

Jazz in Concert The French capital celebrates jazz with its annual jazz festival with numerous events and concerts organised through until the 13th of the month at La Villette. One of the standout concerts taking place during the festival, in a circus big top setting, is the Fred Wesley concert on the 1st of September in La Villette’s Cabaret Sauvage. Fred Wesley, the American jazz and funk trombonist who worked with James Brown as his music director, is taking to the stage to perform as only a forefather of funk can, and he will be joined by Omar, the talented British soul singer who has previously worked with Stevie Wonder, promising that this concert will bring the house down.

Cabaret Sauvage 221 ave Jean-Jaurès (19th), 01 42 09 03 09

Fred Wesley © Daniel R.N.Lopes

Grease is the Word There is no other musical that captured everyone’s heart more than the fabulous Grease. Written in 1971 by Jim Jacobs and Warren Casey, the musical was first performed on Valentine’s Day in 1972 on Broadway and was nominated for 7 Tony Awards, and four years later it was adapted to the big screen with Olivia Newton-John and John Travolta taking on the lead roles. Today, the musical is still one of the most popular around the world and from the 28th of September it will be taking over the Théâtre Mogador where Sandy and Danny will be taking the audience back to Rydell High. With all the iconic songs and retro looks, Grease is one musical not to miss, especially for fans of the original movie and its soundtrack.

Théâtre Mogador 25 rue de Mogador (9th), 01 53 32 32 32 Performed in French w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 81

ENTERTAINMENT Shows

Welcome to Woodstock A musical inspired by one of the most famous music festivals in the world, Welcome to Woodstock celebrates the festival that ran over four days and brought together over 400,000 revellers. Influenced by the free love of the time, Welcome to Woodstock tells the story of a group of friends who decide to attend the festival, with the road trip slowly embarking them on a journey of “firsts”. Playing from the 5th of September at Le Comédia, the musical brings together 12 artists to the stage and a soundtrack delving the audience back to the 70s.

Le Comédia 4 blvd de Strasbourg (10th), 01 42 38 22 22 www.le-comedia.fr Performed in French

Enter an urban jungle at the ephemeral Jungle Chic terrace bar at the Buddha-Bar Hotel, which lets you bask in the end of summer warm breeze in a tranquil and chic setting. For the occasion the hotel’s patio has been decorated with exotic plants, letting the greenery take you on a voyage to Asia while the cocktail menu also flies your taste buds to the mysterious orient with drinks designed exclusively for this pop-up bar. The bar extends your experience from Thursday to Saturday night by welcoming its resident DJ from 8pm to enjoy an outdoor lounge vibe right in the heart of the city.

Buddha-Bar Hotel 4 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01 83 96 88 88 82 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

Buddha Bar © Yvan Moreau

Jungle Fever

ADVERTORIAL

As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light.

Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return

to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian.

Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hard-hitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab?

Putting together a one man show, How to become Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up

comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light.

Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves.

It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor.

Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more.

This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH Théâtre des Nouveautés (theater with air conditioning) 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards

Sans titre-5 1

Tickets at www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

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ENTERTAINMENT Bars

Drinks Along the Seine Located on the banks of the River Seine, La Démesure sur Seine is a convivial spot to enjoy a drink or two while taking in the view of the river.

While the new hot Parisian spot offers patrons a contemporary menu and a dining area, it is really the bar that keeps people coming. Sitting opposite the Cité de la Mode et du Design, the restaurant and bar is open daily from 12pm to 2am and serves up original cocktails including Bobo is Not Dead, a blend of vodka, Prosecco, strawberries and sugar cane. This is a great address to take in the view of passing boat cruises while enjoying an entertainment programme that includes live music, and making the most of the last warm evenings before the weather slowly turns and taking you indoors.

La Démesure sur Seine 69 Port de la Rapée (12th), 06 64 80 61 11

Cocktail Hour In the lively 11th arrondissement, a few minutes away from Place de la Bastille is where the Badaboum bar and club hides behind a blackedout exterior and a cordoned off entrance. Recently winning the Welcome Awards by CIWY After Midnight award, Badaboum is where mixologist Nicolas D. works his mixology magic, creating original cocktails, with some served in dainty porcelain teacups. After getting into the party mood, partially thanks to enjoying a couple of Nicolas’s cocktails, head downstairs where the club awaits with pumping music and a rotating programme of DJs that will have you dancing until the wee hours of the morning.

Badaboum 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01 48 06 50 70 The bar is open from Wednesday to Saturday, 7pm to 2am. Club is open from Friday to Sunday, 11.30pm to 6.30am.

84 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

© Pauline NICOLAS -

© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2017- Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE !

DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 175 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H À PARTIR DE 77 €

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82, BLD DE CLICHY - 75018 PARIS TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82

THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD!

DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM €175 SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

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Cabarets

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity .

Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin.

The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears.

Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

LIDO The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes.

Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

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MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

Lido de Paris © Pics-Pascaline Labarrere

Lido

NEW SHOW

CREATED AND DIRECTED BY FRANCO DRAGONE

INFORMATION / RESERVATION www.lido.fr • +33 (0) 1 40 76 56 10 • reservation@lido.fr 116 BIS AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES, 75008 PARIS

©PHOTO : PICS

DINNER & SHOW CHAMPAGNE & SHOW

Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar.

The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas.

58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65.

M° Les Halles

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Le Bar

Le Bristol Bar

The Ballroom

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am.

25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12.

M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49.

M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78.

M° Boissière

KLÉBER BAR | Bars & Wine Bars (16th) 88 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical.

Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière.

46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila.

23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ice Kube

Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting.

Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

Wine by One

Enjoy a total unique wine experience in this lovely space next to the Champs-Elysées proposing 100 different wines by the glass. This atmospheric and eclectic bar has wines from all over the world that you can taste by the glass (at any time with your WINEcard), and also purchase bottles to take away.

Mon-Sat noon-11pm. 27 rue de Marignan (8th), 01.45.63.18.98. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

CASINO Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

JAZZ CLUBS Café Universel

Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife

LE DOKHAN’S CHAMPAGNE BAR | Bars & Wine (16th)

ENTERTAINMENT

Address Book

with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night.

Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

NIGHT CLUBS L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe.

The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges.

Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th),

06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Baron

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door.

6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

La Fidelité

This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Queen Club

This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most

LES JARDINS DU PONT NEUF

| Bars & Wine Bars (8th)

sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté.

58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am.

5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL AND OPERA SHOWS Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

LE BARON

| Night Clubs (8th)

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The Guide

SERVICES

Place Vendôme iStockphoto 2017 © nikonaft

Autumn Auctions | Home Décor | Eurostar & Trains | Real Estate Agencies | Metro Map

90 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

SERVICES

Henry MORET - Le Peintre En Plein Air Photo © Courtesy Millon; Cindy Sherman, Untitled #553, 2010-2012, Chromogenic color print Courtesy of the artist and Metro Pictures, New York; A pair of pink flamingoes in silver and nautilus Photo © Christie’s Images Ltd, 2017

Auctions

T

Autumn Auctions

By Patricia Valicenti

he world’s leading auction houses are present in the French capital making for a rich programme of sales. Among the offerings this month are fine objects d’art, paintings, and jewellery and there is as well an auction of contemporary works being sold to benefit five associations that assist refugees.

The house of Christie’s will be dispersing some of the collections from the Parisian apartment of the world-renowned decorator Alberto Pinto. He was a passionate collector and the sale of 1000 lots is destined to be a highlight of the auction season. The works and objects on auction reflect very different styles and periods ranging from the Renaissance to the Baroque and contemporary art offering a bouquet of objects including the table arts, silverware and European and Asian porcelain. Among the offerings on the block is a delightful pair of pink flamingos in silver and nautilus from Porto dating from the 20th century and estimated at 3000-5000€.

The house of Millon will be entering into the auction season at the house of Drouot with its sale entitled Biennale, offering lots in all 25 of the house’s specialties including furnishings, collector’s items, design and jewellery. A highlight of the show is a selection of 60 watercolours by the modern artist Henry Moret representing Brittany, which have been conserved for over a century in the artist’s family.

Christie’s in conjunction with the Galerie Azzedine Alaiä is holding a sale of

works by 25 contemporary artists with all proceeds going to associations that benefit from the support of the initiative We Dream Under the Same Sky. The works have been donated by the artists and their galleries and some of them have been created especially for the sale. Cindy Sherman, Annette Messager and Latifa Echakhch are among the participating artists. We Dream Under the Same Sky works to create public awareness about the situation of refugees and to raise funds for five associations that assist refugees on the ground. The sale will be preceded by a presentation of the works and round tables with the associations at the Palais de Tokyo.

Alberto Pinto Collection Presentation: September 8th to the 11th, 10am to 6pm and on the 10th from 2pm Sale: September 12 at 2pm, September 13 & 14 at 11am & 2pm Christie’s, 9 ave Matignon (8th), 01 40 76 85 85 Biennale by Million Presentation: September 15, 16 & 17, 11am to 6pm Sale: September 18th at 2pm Hôtel Drouot, 9 rue Drouot (9th), 01 48 00 20 20 We Dream Under the Same Sky Presentation: September 16th to the 21st, 2pm to 10pm Palais de Tokyo, 13 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01 81 97 35 88 Sale: September 27 at 8pm (upon invitation) Galerie Azzedine Alaiä, 18 rue de la Verrerie (4th), 01 42 74 49 66 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 91

SERVICES Home

Dressing Your Bedside Table

By Sandra Iskander

Bloomingville Available at Printemps 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56

DADA Light Available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56

Pure Available at BHV Marais 52 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09 77 40 14 00

Philippe Xerri and Rock The Kasbah Available at Mona Market 4 rue Commines (3rd), 01 42 78 80 04

92 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

LightOnline Available at Leroy Merlin 52 rue Rambuteau (3rd), 01 44 54 66 66

Light On Line © Light On Line; Philippe Xerri and Rock The Kasbah © Philippe Xerri Rock The Kasbah

Diptyque, 330-332 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 42 33 19 79

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

THE PERFECT PARISIAN

P

Pied-à-Terre

aris Attitude is the place to find your place in Paris. This real estate agency, founded in 2001, specialises in luxurious property listings in the French capital as well as short and long term upscale furnished rentals ranging from studios to 7-room apartments, modern lofts, traditional Haussmann-style homes, or even a houseboat.

At Paris Attitude you will find listed properties that are up for sale that range from a 3-bedroom apartment in the Saint-Germain neighbourhood to a charming one-bedroom apartment near the beautiful Opéra Garnier complete with a terrace to make the most of the warmer months in the City of Light.

Meanwhile, a fine selection of over 6000 furnished apartments covering all of the districts and neighbourhoods of Paris awaits for you to choose from for the duration of your stay. The highly select rentals bring together taste, refinement and sublime decor and all are equipped with highspeed Internet and everything you need like linens and cooking utensils.

Townhouses, apartments with spacious rooms and divine terraces are among the elegant offerings like a 3-bedroom duplex by the Arc de Triomphe or a 2-bedroom apartment with a large terrace offering a stunning greenery-framed view of the Eiffel Tower. A multi-lingual, highly skilled staff offers tailor-made, efficient and courteous service.

All you need to do is just describe the lifestyle you would like to have in Paris and an advisor will provide you with personalised service to help you find that perfect Parisian pied-à-terre. You can also peruse the userfriendly website at www.parisattitude.com.

21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01 42 96 31 46

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Address Book

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris EUROSTAR & TRAINS

MEDICAL SERVICES

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com).

You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

LIMOUSINES Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

PARIS DISTRICTS

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25.

M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41.

M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge  74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

TAX REFUND When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood.

5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will

find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.

DS Real Estate, specialised in long-term furnished rentals in Paris

11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES

Calligaris - 45 rue du Bac (7th), 01.45.44.84 91. M° Rue du Bac Cinna - 189 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.44.39.07.00. M° Rue du Bac Espace Topper - 63 rue de la Convention (15th), 01.45.77.80.40. M° Boucicaut Ligne Roset - 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.25.94.19. M° Franklin D.Roosevelt Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Silvera - 56 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Boissière Steiner Paris - 67 blvd Raspail (6th), 01.42.22.59.13. M° Rennes

01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule DS Real Estate Paris - 78 ave Raymond Poincaré (16th), 01.83.62.90.14. M° Victor Hugo Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Coldwell Banker - 8 rue Lamennais (8th), 01.83.53.53.53. M° George V Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

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Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),

around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The

Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge.

19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s

famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

©iStock

HOME DECOR

Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO ORLY AIRPORT The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the DenfertRochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes,

4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TER train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.

miss "griffes" Come discover unique haute couture designs in this store located in the heart of the golden triangle of Paris

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm.

(21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

Prada - Louis Vuitton - Armani

Marni - Valentino - Chanel

Visitors Bureau Reception teams, documentation and bookings are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centres. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 25 rue des Pyramides (1st), M° Pyramides.

Opening Hours: From November 1st to April 30th, 10am to 7pm.

Other branches include Gare du Nord (10th), Gare de l’Est (10th), Paris Rendez-vous (4th) M° Hôtel de Ville and Montmartre/Anvers (18th) M° Anvers. www.parisinfo.com

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4 SPAS IN PARIS Paris 2nd / Paris 4th / Paris 6th / Paris 16th +33 9 81 10 74 47

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19 rue de Penthièvre 75008 Paris - France Monday to Friday 1pm to 7pm www.miss-griffes.fr miss-griffes.fr

miss-griffes

Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room.

English, French, Spanish spoken.

7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05

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SERVICES

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

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Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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My Paris

BENOÎT BARRAULT

HEAD CONCIERGE AT THE BUDDHA-BAR HOTEL PARIS

The Sacré-Coeur in Montmartre

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do?

I would advise them to start the day with a good breakfast on the sunny terrace of Le Vraymonde, then take a retro side-car tour to discover Paris’s most important monuments such as the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Louvre Museum, and the Opera before taking a break in Montmartre for a bucolic picnic in the Turlure park with its breathtaking view of the Sacré Coeur. On the way back they could shop along the luxurious Rue Saint-Honoré. The evening could take them to another area such as Saint-Germain for an aperitif or dinner at L’Avant Comptoir, which offers a typically Parisian atmosphere. They have a good wine list and all the best of our regions cooked in tapas form. They could then finish the evening on the rooftop of the Montana located nearby with a superb cocktail menu and those who like to party could stay in the club until late.

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city?

I like the view that the towers of NotreDame offer of the River Seine and its meanders.

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Silencio

Café de l’Homme

Notre-Dame

It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn?

It depends on the day of the week but I would recommend La Boogie Night at Matignon on Monday night, La Rock ‘n’ Chic at Matignon on Tuesday night, Silencio on Wednesday, the House of Dolls night at L’Arc on Thursday, Raspoutine on Friday, Baron on Saturday, and for Sunday, Titty Twister for the Fresh Touch.

a very enriching olfactory visit. It definitely is a place to go and see.

As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions?

The epicentre of fashion is around the Buddha-Bar Hotel, and that means Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and Rue SaintHonoré all the way down to Avenue Montaigne.

Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisure stroll?

According to me, the Marais area is the best place to start discovering Paris.

Where would you recommend our readers to celebrate a birthday party or a bachelor/bachelorette party?

As far as I am concerned, I like to stroll along the Canal Saint-Martin with its bobo (Bourgeoisie and Bohemian) atmosphere, a really nice place with many pretty terraces to have a drink and to watch natives and tourists walking around.

My perfect day

For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner?

What else than the magic of Paris by night to make the eyes and hearts sparkle?

Yachts de Paris will make sure you will never forget your evening.

9am: Big Love Caffé for a brunch in the Marais area

What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see?

The Grand Musée du Parfum on Rue SaintHonoré, which is a superb construction with

22:45pm: 9pm: Crazy Horse show and for what’s after… Ask your concierge

12pm: Lunch at Pressing, for the best panini in Paris.

3pm: Break/nap in the Tuileries Garden 9pm: Dinner on the terrace of the Café de l’Homme with its breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower

where

®

Your Guide to the World

Vraymonde ®Christophe Madamour; Le Silencio © Alexandre Guirkinger Art Library; Notre-Dame iStockphoto 2017 © Franck Reporter; Café de l’Homme © Pierre Monetta; Sacré-Coeur at Montmartre iStockphoto 2017 © Pawel Gaul

Le Vraymonde

PARIS / SEPTEMBER 8-12, 2017 PARIS NORD VILLEPINTE

THAT WEEK THE ENTIRE M&O COMMUNITY LIVES HERE

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