Must-Do's Cycling 2021-22 by AA Traveller

MUST EDITION 2021/22

Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand

YOUR FREE COPY

DOs

aatraveller.co.nz Featuring the Great Rides & Heartland Rides • Route Descriptions • Maps • Safety Tips • Things to See and Do • Places to Stay

AUCKLAND

Relax between rides with The Great Journeys of New Zealand. Hire a bike at your destination, or book a place on board the service if you wish to bring your own. Our scenic trains and Interislander ferry offer the most comfortable way to travel, taking you places to experience New Zealand’s spectacular cycling trails.

• Matamata • Waitomo

Tongariro National Park •

Paraparaumu •

•

Nelson

Find out more at greatjourneysofnz.co.nz

PICTON

GREYMOUTH

WELLINGTON

• Kaikōura

• Lake Brunner Arthur’s Pass •

• Waimakariri River

CHRISTCHURCH

Remutaka Cycle Trail © Caleb Smith INSET: Kathryn Webster © AATP

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

Cycling is a journey Generations of New Zealanders have owned bikes since they were riding one to school, upgrading as they’ve grown older to new, flasher models. Many have had bikes in their lives as a constant. For some, including AA Traveller editor Kathryn Webster, the combination of modern bike design and the development of Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails has brought them back to the saddle after years away.

’d had my share of accidents as a bike-riding kid, including a spectacular one involving significant dental treatment. But it’s true what they say: you don’t forget. After a break of 20 years or more, I strapped on a helmet, scootered up to speed, swung onto the seat and I was off. Not much wobbling at all. What also came back in a flash was the sheer joy of biking, of the wind rushing at your face, the feeling of freedom as you fly through the world. No wonder kids love it! No wonder cycling is so popular. A couple of years ago I was invited to tackle one of the Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand, the West Coast Wilderness Trail. Having established I was a very part-time cyclist, I wasn’t sure I could do it. It’s a long trail – 133km all up – and as I didn’t own a bike, I wasn’t in a position to prepare. But then the tour operator mentioned the

possibility of riding an e-bike. That changed everything. Riding with ease up and down bush trails, along the coast, through stunning landscapes, truly experiencing part of New Zealand I’d previously only seen from the road was very special. Since then, I’ve ridden the Great Taste Trail, also on e-bike and plan to ride more. And while I now own a bike – not an e-bike, but a modern bike with suspension and gears – I’ll rent an electric option for those long distance adventures. No question. There are so many spectacular trails to be enjoyed in New Zealand now, I don’t want to be put off by the exertion involved. I’m grateful that technology has made them accessible to me.

Most of the Great Rides and many of the Heartland Rides can be ridden by e-bike, either with the support of a tour company or independently. 1

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

ISBN > 978-1-98-852369-9 © The New Zealand Automobile Association Incorporated 2021. All rights reserved. AA, the AA logo and the Tourism pictogram are registered trademarks and the colour combination YELLOW & BLACK are trademarks of The New Zealand Automobile Association Incorporated. The AA acknowledges Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails for providing the trail information for this edition; © Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails.

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

Welcome to Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails contents 4

NORTH ISLAND MAP

5 North Island Cycle Trails’ Contents 6

SOUTH ISLAND MAP

7 South Island Cycle Trails’ Contents 8

On your Bike, New Zealand

Kia ora from Ngā Haerenga 14 New Zealand Cycle Trails

NORTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

Plan your Ride

Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails for First Timers

SOUTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

Safety on the Roads

While every care has been taken in the compilation of this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for inaccuracies or changes since going to press, or for consequential loss arising from such changes or other inaccuracies, or any other loss direct or consequential arising in connection with information provided in the publication. There is no requirement for advertisers in this guide to provide discounts for AA Members; some individual advertisers offer concessions and details of these are indicated in their listings. All content in advertisements was provided by advertisers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced (except brief passages for the purpose of review), stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publishers/individual copyright holders. Published in November 2021 by AA Tourism Publishing Ltd Level 1, Building 2, 61 Constellation Drive, Mairangi Bay, North Shore, Auckland 0632 PO Box 101 001, North Shore, Auckland 0745 T. +64 9 966 8720 F. +64 9 966 8721 E. tourism.images@aa.co.nz W. www.aatraveller.co.nz

PRINTED BY: Webstar, Auckland COVER IMAGE: Summit Tunnel, Remutaka Trail © Caleb Smith

Advertising Enquiries: T. 09 966 8720 E. tourism.sales@aa.co.nz

Pīpīriki © Mountains to Sea Trails ABOVE: Otago Central Rail Trail © DunedinNZ

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

NORTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

We’re not convinced there are enough adjectives in the dictionary to credit a North Island bike ride. When in doubt, revert to an ‘ooh’ or an ‘ahh’ – the scenery is far too overwhelming to muster more. What makes the North Island so utterly bewitching is its diverse terrain of tectonic wizardry and landscape that switches from beach to vineyard to lake to rainforest within a day’s travel. Geothermal hot spots, spurting geysers, volcanic peaks and green, gloriously aesthetic hills all inch into your peripheral, and no two square metres are (seemingly) the same. There’s rarely a better vantage point for accessing all this magic than from your bike, so jump on, strap in and enjoy the ride.

TOP: Cycling Waikato River Trails © Waikato River Trails RIGHT: Motu Trails – Pakihi Track © www.studiozag.com

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

Welcome to the North Island

contents NORTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

Waikato River Trails

Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail

e Ara Ahi – Thermal T by Bike

59 F orgotten World Highway Cycle Route

Far North Cycleway

42 Motu Trails

61 Hawke’s Bay Trails

Kauri Coast Cycleway

Rere Falls Trail

Manawatū Cycleway

Kaipara Missing Link

The Timber Trail

Remutaka Cycle Trail

Hauraki Rail Trail

Great Lake Trails

Mountains to Sea Trails

NORTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS GRADE INDEX FAR NORTH CYCLEWAY FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY CYCLE ROUTE GREAT LAKE TRAILS HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS KAIPARA MISSING LINK KAURI COAST CYCLEWAY MANAWATŪ CYCLEWAY MOUNTAINS TO SEA TRAILS MOTU TRAILS

TRAIL GRADE COLOUR KEY

POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

GRADE 1 (EASIEST)

REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

GRADE 2 (EASY)

RERE FALLS TRAIL

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

TE ARA AHI – THERMAL BY BIKE

GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

THE TIMBER TRAIL

GRADE 5 (EXPERT)

WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

See page 11 for trail grade descriptions

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

SOUTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

contents SOUTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

Welcome to the South Island

Queen Charlotte Track

89 West Coast Wilderness Trail

118 Otago Central Rail Trail

76 79

Coppermine Trail (formerly Dun Mountain Trail)

Molesworth Muster Trail

Rainbow Trail

128 Clutha Gold Trail

Tasman’s Great Taste Trail

101 St James Cycle Trail

The Old Ghost Road

104 Hurunui Trail

136 Around the Mountains Cycle Trail

110 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail

142 Southland Traverse

125 Roxburgh Gorge Trail 131 The Queenstown Trail

SOUTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS GRADE INDEX AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL COPPERMINE TRAIL HURUNUI TRAIL MOLESWORTH MUSTER TRAIL THE OLD GHOST ROAD OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL

TRAIL GRADE COLOUR KEY

RAINBOW TRAIL

GRADE 1 (EASIEST)

ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL

GRADE 2 (EASY)

SOUTHLAND TRAVERSE

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

ST JAMES CYCLE TRAIL

GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

Somewhat a show-off, this part of New Zealand is prone to theatrics, distracting its guests with great displays of showstopping natural beauty and colours that pack a punch. And yet, for all its razzle dazzle, the South Island is also pretty astute at keeping a secret. There are historic landmarks, cultural marvels and natural gems on this motu that few know about, less visit. Hop on a bike and you’ll get access to a whole bank of new experiences.

ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

Get ready to apologise for how many times you say the word ‘wow’. It’s either that, or no words at all – the South Island is renown for rendering visitors speechless.

GRADE 5 (EXPERT)

See page 11 for trail grade descriptions

Then there are all the common joys of a bike ride; the swoosh of bike tyres, fresh air filling your lungs and the sweet purity of nature working its magic. You have all the ingredients for an incredible, memorymaking journey.

TOP: Five Rivers - Around the Mountains Cycle Trail © Tourism New Zealand ABOVE INSET: Lawrence Camp, Otago © www.cluthanz.com

On your Bike, New Zealand!

Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails have been instrumental in developing a series of Great Rides and Heartland Rides that showcase the very best of New Zealand by bike. In light of COVID-19 and a resurgence in domestic travel, there’s never been a better time to see our nation from the saddle. • Enjoy the Great Outdoors • Explore Aotearoa’s diverse landscape, environment, culture and heritage • Get fit and stay healthy • Up your daily quota of fresh air • Have a holiday with a difference • Spread the economic benefits of cycle tourism

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

TRAVEL GUIDES You’re looking at just one of 10 New Zealand Travel Guides from AA Traveller, lovingly curated by Kiwis for Kiwis. Get inspired, plan your trip and discover every hidden gem in Aotearoa. Pick up for FREE at nationwide AA Centres, i-SITES and selected accommodation providers. ABOVE: Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail © Ruth Lawton Photography INSET: Wineries Ride Villa Maria Gimblett Gravels © Hawke’s Bay Trails BELOW: Hyde, Otago Central Rail Trail © Adobe Stock

COVID CASUALTIES While every care has been taken in the compilation of this guide, due to the pandemic there may have been changes since going to press. We advise you to

check before you visit any establishment mentioned in this guide, as they may be in hibernation, offering limited services or no longer open for business.

Kia ora from Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails

erving up plenty of fresh air, fun and sunshine alongside magnificent scenery and must-see sights, Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails offer rewarding cycle rides for all ages, abilities and interests.

meet the people who live there, and support local businesses.

Known in Māori as Ngā Haerenga (The Journeys), our 22 Great Rides and connecting Heartland Rides are as diverse as they are beautiful, offering an irresistible blend of striking natural wonders alongside rich culture and heritage, exciting activities, and delicious food and drink.

To stay up to date with news from around the trails, subscribe to the Great Rider newsletter, which also features inspiring stories from the people and places that make New Zealand cycling so special. Sign up and discover even more at www.nzcycletrail.com – the official website of Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails. It has trail descriptions for all 22 Great Rides and many more, along with all you need to know to plan and enjoy your adventures. You can also find listings for our official partners who are as passionate about our trails as we are.

Riding adventures will get even more exciting for Kiwis in the coming years as new trails are built and connected to create longer touring routes across the country.

Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails’ team

@nzcycletrail

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

There’s never been a better time to explore Aotearoa by bike. The boom in e-bikes is bringing even more people along for the ride, with family and friends enjoying inclusive trips that are also lowcarbon, naturally socially distanced and fantastic for health and fitness. Our cycle trails also offer endless opportunities to visit new places,

Otago Central Rail Trail © James Jubb

@nzcycletrail

www.nzcycletrail.com

Te Rewa Rewa Bridge

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

From the maunga to the moana, Taranaki is brimming with things to see and do. From the Forgotten World Highway to coastal cruises, there’s plenty of places to ride. Put Taranaki on your to-do-list now and be delighted by a region like no other.

Lake Mangamahoe

YOUR PERFECT RIDE IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER

Just around the corner taranaki.co.nz/visit

AN INITIATIVE OF VENTURE TARANAKI

TRAIL GRADES

Plan your Ride

GRADE 1 (EASIEST) Off-road trail surface is either firm gravel or sealed and is wide enough for two people to cycle side by side for most of the way. On-road trails generally follow quiet roads with little traffic. GRADE 2 (EASY) Off-road trails are predictable and mostly flat with some gentle climbs. The surface is either firm gravel or sealed. The trail is wide enough for two people to cycle side by side at times. On-road trails generally follow quiet roads. GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) Off-road trails can be narrow and may include hill climbs, steep drop-offs and small river crossings. The trail surface is mostly firm, but may include muddy or loose sections. There may be obstacles such as rocks to tree roots to avoid.

GRADE 5 (EXPERT) Off-road trails are likely to be challenging with long, steep climbs, precipitous descents and dangerous drop-offs as well as rocks, roots, ruts and potentially hazardous river crossings. The graphs shown alongside each trail show the approximate split or proportion of each trail grade offered by that trail. This example indicates the trail’s total length (187km) is made up of: 20% Grade 1 20% Grade 2 20% Grade 3 20% Grade 4 20% Grade 5

The Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails offer cycling experiences that will appeal to a wide range of interests and abilities. No matter what type of riding ‘spins your wheels’, it is important to take some time to plan your ride BEFORE heading out on your bike!

The Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails have adopted the New Zealand Mountain Safety Council’s Outdoor Safety Code, which can be applied across all types of outdoor activities, sports and recreation:

3. B e aware of the weather – New Zealand’s weather can be highly unpredictable. Always check the forecast before you head off and be prepared for weather changes.

1. P lan your trip – seek local knowledge and plan the route you will take and the amount of time you can reasonably expect it to take.

4. K now your limits – your responsibility is to enjoy and maximise your riding experience, while reducing and minimising the risk.

2. T ell someone – let them know your plans so they can raise the alarm if you haven’t returned by a certain date. The Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails recommend

5. T ake sufficient supplies – make sure you have enough water, food, clothing, equipment and emergency rations for the worst-case scenario.

you don’t ride alone.

GREAT RIDES

HEARTLAND RIDES

Predominantly off-road trails

On-road riding – mainly quiet back-country roads so there’s a mix of sealed and gravel roads

Showcases New Zealand’s unique landscape, environment, culture and heritage

Highlights rural scenery and farming, ie New Zealand’s heartland

ABOVE: Dunedin Railway Station © Miles Holden/Tourism NZ TOP: Otago Central Rail Trail © James Jubb

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) Off-road trails are narrow with steep climbs and unavoidable obstacles. Poor traction in places. Walking may be required. On-road trails have moderate vehicular traffic and possible gravel sections.

Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails for First Timers New to all this? Read the need-to-know essentials

EXPERIENCED CYCLISTS LOOKING FOR MORE ADVENTURE ARE TURNING TO BIKEPACKING, WHICH DESCRIBES INDEPENDENT, MULTIDAY BIKE TRIPS INTO REMOTE PARTS OF THE COUNTRY. SEE THE NGĀ HAERENGA NEW ZEALAND CYCLE TRAIL WEBSITE FOR DETAILS ON WHAT, WHERE, HOW AND WHY.

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

WHAT ARE NGĀ HAERENGA NEW ZEALAND CYCLE TRAILS? Aotearoa’s stunning terrain lends itself to a bike ride. In 2009, Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails began to build a network of world-class cycle trails to provide a safe and sustainable way to explore the landscape. The premier trails were named the Great Rides and have since grown to become the 22 Great Rides, varying from one day trips to multi-day experiences. Most routes are offroad and many follow old pathways forged by early explorers, hence the official Māori name – Ngā Haerenga, The Journeys.

THERE ARE ALSO ‘HEARTLAND RIDES’. WHAT ARE THESE? To complement the 22 Great Rides and to link to other trails, a series of on-road cycling routes, known as Heartland Rides have also been created. They connect the Great Rides to urban centres, transport hubs and key tourist attractions, predominantly following backcountry roads that steer clear of busy state highways. DO I NEED TO BE FIT? Such is the diversity of the trails, there is a track to suit almost every age, ability and fitness. Use the coloured ‘trail grade’ to distinguish difficulty levels and for extra oomph look into riding an e-bike.

HOW DO I CARRY MY LUGGAGE? Cycling is such a popular activity many local companies have upped the ante to meet cyclists’ demands. There are now many luggage transfer services that will pick up your luggage every morning and drop it off at your next accommodation before you arrive. CAN I CAMP? Yes. In which case, a couple of waterproof panniers are useful. These bags hang either side of your bike frame and are more comfortable than a backpack. Your accommodation can be as luxe or as rugged as you like. Motels, lodges, glamping, camping, cabins, chalets – you name it.

DO I NEED MY OWN BIKE? There’s no need – you can easily hire your wheels from a local cycle service provider. For ease and convenience, many companies will request your measurements in advance including your leg length (tape measures at the ready!) so the right bike is ready and waiting for you on your arrival. HOW DO I KNOW WHAT TYPE OF BIKE TO USE? This guide recommends the best style of bike for every trail, and staff at bike rentals are there to advise. Many trails can also be undertaken on an e-bike.

HOW DO I GET BACK TO MY CAR? If the trail isn’t a circuit, local shuttle companies can be booked to transfer both you and your bike back to the starting point. HOW DO I KNOW WHICH WAY TO GO? Keep hold of this guide. Every trail listed includes a detailed map. You can also download the Great Rides App which will also work offline if needs be.

TOHU WHENUA ARE PLACES AROUND NEW ZEALAND THAT MATTER TO KIWIS. RICH IN HISTORICAL OR CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE, VISITORS ARE PRESENTED WITH MEMORABLE EXPERIENCES AND AUTHENTIC INSIGHT INTO AOTEAROA. VISIT TOHUWHENUA.NZ FOR A FULL LIST OF TOHU WHENUA LOCATIONS.

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Napier Airport E s tu ary

Puketapu

Share the road safely is the AA’s message for cyclists and motorists

oad

Puketapu Loop

The AA urges road users, be they in vehicles or on bikes, to follow the tips

listed below to help keep to Taihape themselves and others safe on the roads.

Sw am pR

However, cycling infrastructure around New Zealand, particularly in our cities, is a developing asset and visitors from some countries will find it less advanced than they may be used to. This means that, at times, cyclists will be ‘mixing it’ with motorists on the roads.

Oingo Lake PLEASE NOTE: Sections of the trail on a busy road or State Highway Runanga Lake are indicated on the maps with a broken line and the above Roys Hill Reserve symbol. Please take extra care.

Otatara Pa

TARAD

r ive ri R

ew Zealand is developing its reputation as a cycling nation. Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails has seen the government and local bodies invest in establishing a wide network for cyclists that builds strongly on the 100% Pure New Zealand brand.

Safety on the Roads

ek u Tuta

Be safe – ride to the conditions and follow the road rules. Cycle no more than two abreast and ride single file where visibility is an issue or traffic is busy.

50 50a

Wineries Ride

ve kA

50a

FLAXMERE

TIPS FOR PEOPLE IN CARS

TIPS FOR PEOPLE ON BIKES Ngatarawa Wines

HASTINGS Stick to the road rules and Cellars help to be seen by having lights Triangle on your bike and50wearing brightly coloured or reflective Bridge Pa clothing. 2

Double check for cyclists before turning or coming out of a park.

Use hand signals to indicate when you are turning or HAVELOCK NORT stopping. Maraekakaho Road 50a

Keep at least a 1.5m gap from someone on a bike.

HASTINGS GOLF CLUB Ride in single file as much as possible, especially on narrow roads. 2 to Waipawa

Be willing to slow down and drive behind a cyclist until there is space to pass them safely.

If you have a tail of cars behind you, pull over and let them pass. A little consideration stops frustrations boiling over.

Check for cyclists before opening your car door.

In New Zealand it is compulsory to wear a helmet when you are cycling.

Make a conscious effort to look out for cyclists.

Sileni Estate

CYCLING MUST-DO’S

021 178 8287

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

BEST FOR: Delving into Northland’s history, which is rich in Māori culture.

BAY OF ISLANDS to HOKIANGA HARBOUR 2 days

87km

BOTH IMAGES: Twin Coast Cycle Trail © Ruth Lawton Photography

TOP TIP – There are numerous gates along the track to deter quad bikes. Take just one pannier, bike basket or box for easier manoeuvring.

Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail is an attractive cross-country journey from the Bay of Islands to Hokianga Harbour, serving up a tempting mix of relaxing riding with some seriously significant heritage sites and stories.

he 87km cycle trail is typically ridden over two days across a landscape of coastal, country and small-town sights with a subtropical climate for which the ‘winterless’ north is famous. The trail travels through various cultural sites and attractions capturing the history and heritage of Māori and European activity and settlements. Bilingual story boards along the way bring life to the history and stories of local people, places and the natural environment.

It can be ridden from either direction or broken into smaller day trips allowing for time to enjoy other activities in the area which include historic sites and townships, bush walks, a soak in geothermal hot pools, with plenty of cafés along the trail to satisfy hungry visitors. For new riders starting at Kaikohe ensures there are plenty of downhills both relaxing and highly rewarding. The trail is open during daylight hours only, and the compacted shale surface is ridable all year round.

SEE PP 20, 22 & 24 FOR CONNECTING HEARTLAND RIDES

MAP LEGEND i-SITE Puketī Visitor Centre Forest

accommodation

temporary closure

town

camping

café/restaurant

state highway

start/finish point

toilets

point of interest

car park

detour 500m on road

ferry

Omahuta Forest

Rangiahua

ŌKAIHAU MANGUNGU Hōreke Rd MISSION HOUSE Kohukohu Hōreke

Rāwene

Snows Farm

EAST COAST Bay Of Islands Paihia

ŌPUA Lake Ōmāpere

Te Akeake Truss Bridge

Ngāwhā Hot Springs

Tuhipa

ŌTĪRIA

Ngapipito

to Whāngārei

KAIKOHE AERODROME

87km

riding the trail Hōreke

400m

Taumārere Railway Station

KAWAKAWA

Lake Owhareiti

KAIKOHE

2 Days

Russell

WEST COAST Hokianga Harbour

TRAIL INFO

f Islands Bay O

Kerikeri

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail... Ōkaihau

28km

Kaikohe 14km

Kawakawa Ōpua 34km

11km

200m

TRAIL GRADES: ŌPUA TO KAWAKAWA 11KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) KAWAKAWA TO KAIKOHE 34KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) & GRADE 2 (EASY) KAIKOHE TO ŌKAIHAU 14KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) & GRADE 2 (EASY) ŌKAIHAU TO HŌREKE 28KM GRADE 2 (EASY) & GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good around larger towns and settlements but patchy between Kawakawa and Kaikohe, and Ōkaihau to Hōreke. DRINKING WATER: Water bottles can be filled at various settlements; be sure to carry plenty on hot summer days. TYPE OF BIKE: Can be ridden on a hybrid bike, although a mountain bike will ensure maximum comfort and safety, especially on the Grade 3 section from Ōkaihau to Hōreke. E-bikes are also permitted and available through most bike hire operators. GRADE 1 (EASIEST) GRADE 2 (EASY)

ŌPUA TO KAWAKAWA NOTE: TEMPORARY CLOSURE Ōpua to Kawakawa section is undergoing changes to re-establish the train line. Parts of the cycle trail will be closed starting from December 2021. The train project is being completed in stages resulting in a train operating and part of the cycle trail being closed until a new cycle trail is built. Please visit twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz website for updates. Trail Highlights: Ōpua – the maritime centre of the Bay of Islands • Cycling alongside the water’s edge • Taumarere Long Bridge and Railway Station • Te Hononga and Hundertwasser toilets • Home of the Vintage Railway • Kawakawa – the joining of cultures.

KAWAKAWA TO KAIKOHE

Departing Kawakawa on the west of town, the cycle trail follows a route behind the Moerewa Freezing works. Moerewa is also known as ‘Motown’ or ‘Tuna Town’. Heading further inland through rural landscapes to Tuhipa suspension bridges the cycle trail is on a gradual incline to Kaikohe across rolling farmland. Before you reach Kaikohe you will pass the Kaikohe Aerodrome built in 1942 as a US Marines bomber base. Kaikohe is a

medium-sized township with rich Māori and European heritage. Kaikohe is the hometown of Ngāpuhi. Trail Highlights: Suspension bridges at Tuhipa • Rural scenery cycling through forests and farms • The Pioneer Village in Kaikohe – just 200m off the trail • Accommodation, shops, eateries and activities • Newly upgraded Ngāwhā Hot Springs – 6km from Kaikohe (off the trail).

KAIKOHE TO ŌKAIHAU

Climbing gently west of Kaikohe on a disused railway corridor, the cycle trail climbs gently to the highest point at 280m above sea level. You will pass through an 80m curved rail tunnel built in 1915 before descending to Lake Ōmāpere. Despite reaching the highest point on the cycle trail – it is an easy grade 1 to 2 ride with everchanging views of native bush, farmland, streams and Lake Ōmāpere. Trail Highlights: Lake Ōmāpere – is of great cultural and environmental value to Māori • Summit of Kaikohe – with impressive views • 80m-long curved rail tunnel. Handy hint! Let your eyes adjust to the dark before entering the tunnel or dismount your bike and walk through it • A water ford close to Ōkaihau • Native bush, farmland, streams & lakes.

ŌKAIHAU TO HŌREKE Ōkaihau, a small friendly township with great food before heading further west taking on the exciting Grade 3 downhill zig-zags, along the Utakura River to Snow’s Farm and picnic beside the river. Cycle through a rural setting passing marae which should be respected as ‘private property’ and carry on to a harbourside 1km boardwalk to Hōreke. The cycle trail shares the road for a further 3km to Māngungu Mission House, or make an advanced booking for the boat charter for a harbour crossing. Trail Highlights: Panoramic views • Cycling through the valley beside the Utakura River • Snow’s picnic spot • 1100m boardwalk through the mangroves • Māngungu Mission House – a must-do photo stop! • Passenger & cycle transport/ scenic boat trip. FIND OUT MORE – SCAN HERE:

www.twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz

Highlights of the trail • Te Rito Marae stays, in Moerewa. • Walking trails, swimming hole, caravan café (weekends only) at Wairere Boulders in Hōreke • Water-fronting sunset views

from the historic Hōreke Pub. • Kemp House in Kerikeri is New Zealand’s oldest European building. • Hundertwasser Memorial Park and the train in Kawakawa. • Mini obstacle course near Kaikohe.

• Haruru Falls are a sight to behold. • Paihia makes a gorgeous base for visiting offshore islands. • Ngāwhā Springs and adjoining hot pools at The Temp.

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

open section

More mountain biking, please

View point at Waitangi Bike Park © Waitangi Bike Park RIGHT: Sage Paroa Bay Winery Restaurant © DWB

Bay of... plenty of wine!

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

he Bay of Islands is not only regarded as the birthplace of the nation but the birthplace of New Zealand wine. It was over 200 years ago, in the township of Kerikeri, when Reverend Samuel Marsden planted a single grapevine into the rich Northland soil. Not long after, Scotsman James Busby established a vineyard near the

Waitangi Treaty Grounds and it’s from here that New Zealand’s wine industry flourished into a NZ$1.83 billion export earner.

4 of the best Northland drops

or those keen to keep the spokes spinning, or who have surplus energy to burn, the Waitangi Mountain Bike Park provides a fun-for-all playground with views that will take your breath away as much as the downhill descents. Located in the Bay of Islands, there are almost 50km of varying trails with grades ranging from 2 to 5. Visitors are well looked after with a café, bike hire and a shuttle service, the driver of which will be more than happy to advise you about the trails ahead. Get ready to blow the cobwebs into oblivion as you hurtle your way to the bottom, where a decent coffee awaits.

Paroa Bay: One of two vineyards near Russell with fine dining restaurants (the other is Omata Estate) – Paroa Bay’s ‘Sage’ restaurant also offers tastings with a jaw-dropping view. The Landing: Expert reviews recently rated this winery as one of the best vineyard experiences in New Zealand. With a private boat transfer and lunch at the luxurious Estate included in the tasting fee, it’s a VIP trip you won’t forget.

"VantTage" MODEL

Marsden Estate: Named after Samuel Marsden, the winery is on the outskirts of Kerikeri near the airport. Consistently winning gold medals for their ‘Black Rocks’ chardonnay, the restaurant overlooks the vines.

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Longview Estate: Recently sold to new owners, the vineyard’s ‘White Diamond’ wine is made from Niagara table grapes and is proving a hit overseas. It’s now New Zealand’s most expensive wine at over $500 a bottle.

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PIONEER VILLAGE – KAIKOHE Take a journey into the past, explore and discover this hidden gem. Nestled in the heart of Kaikohe. Absorb the history and heritage! With an extensive collection of heritage buildings, machinery, artefacts and displays. Stroll through the village at your leisure on a self-directed tour $10pp. Only 50m off the cycle track. Secure bike stand, toilets and refreshments. Open 10am-4pm. 1A Recreation Road, Kaikohe, info@pioneervillage.org.nz, Ph +64 9 401 0816, www.pioneervillage.org.nz

RANUI – CYCLE TRANSPORT Enhance your cycling adventure with a trip across the beautiful Hokianga Harbour on the Ranui on Hokianga. We offer cycle transport linking directly to the Twin Coast Cycle Trails. Usual route between Horeke / Mangungu to Kohukohu but we include Rawene on request. For bookings check out our website www.ranuionhokianga.co.nz or call us on 022 643 599

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

ADMIRALS VIEW LODGE Self-contained serviced accomodation in central Paihia. Quiet location, spacious studios and appartments with sea views, sunny terraces & patios. • Sky TV - Guest select, 32in Smart TV’s with DVD player • Air-conditioning, filtered water, electric blankets • 250m to swimming beach, restaurants & cafes • Free WIFI, bikes, tennis & BBQs • Spa Baths • Secure bike storage • Qualmark 4.5 star, AA Smartfuel 2 Macmurray Road, Paihia. info@admiralsviewlodge.co.nz, www.admiralsviewlodge.co.nz, Freephone 0800 247 234, Ph +64 9 402 6236

TOP TRAIL HIRE AND TOURS – CYCLE HIRE, SHUTTLES & TOURS- Discover the Twin Coast Cycle Trail WITH US • Cycle hire, Ebike and trail bike hire • Shuttles from all sections of the trail & Rawene • Information and assistance TO BOOK; Freephone: 0800TOP TRAIL (867 872). PH: 027 453 5176 info@toptrail.co.nz www.toptrail.co.nz

MULLARKEY BIKE AND SHUTTLE W: https://mullarkeybikeandshuttle.co.nz/ E: sales@mullarkeybikeandshuttle.co.nz P: 0800 891 340 (8am to 7pm) We provide shuttle and bike hire options for the Far North’s Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail. We also provide baggage transfers. We are located at Kaikohe (7 Routley Avenue) and Kawakawa (3 Old Whangae Road – behind the Star Hotel)

TWIN COAST ADVENTURES W: https://twincoastadventures.co.nz/ E: office@twincoastadventures.co.nz P: +64 (0) 9 401 2743 – 7 days a week A range of bikes to suit all riders. Shuttle service and transfers from airport and hotel. Accommodation studios, suites and family rooms. We take the hassle out of planning so you can ride at your own pace and have a great adventure!

twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz 17

Off the saddle

on board a handsome schooner, complete with billowing windguided sails. Stand on the bow and scour the water for local attentionseekers: back-flipping dolphins.

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

HISTORY The Waitangi Treaty Grounds is just down the road from Paihia. It is here Māori chiefs and European settlers signed the Treaty of Waitangi. In Russell, New Zealand’s oldest hotel and licensed pub, the Duke of Marlborough, sits before a ribbon of golden beach. Come dusk, the sunsets are dazzling and a sunset cruise is highly recommended.

ISLAND HOPPING Regarded as the hub of the Bay of Islands, Paihia boasts 144 dazzling islands within its reach, the largest being the undeniably beautiful (and very accessible) Urupukapuka Island. A day trip from Paihia Wharf presents lush walks, remnants of ABOVE: Carving at Waitangi Treaty Grounds TOP: Urupukapuka Island. BOTH: © Camilla Rutherford

historic Māori villages, snorkelling, kayaking and a teal-meets-green landscape that is only – marginally – outshone by the birdlife. AQUA ADVENTURES Back in Paihia, take a kayaking trip around the bay, sail to the famous Hole in the Rock or book a cruise

TE RITO MARAE Located right on the trail, you can experience an overnight stay at the authentic Te Rito Marae in Moerewa. Enjoy a Māori welcome ceremony, complete with storytelling and home-cooked kai (food) before drifting off to sleep in the shared sleeping quarters, set up in the meeting house (all linen provided). Breakfast is served before departure.

Paihia

here’s a good place (missionary Rev Henry Williams) • 24km SE of Kerikeri

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0800 27 27 86 www.pioneerapartments.co.nz hosts@pioneerapartments.co.nz I 44 Marsden Rd, Paihia 18

Kerikeri Mission Estate © Northland Tourism BELOW: Haruru Falls © Getty Images

KERIKERI: ways

1. SOAK UP THE HISTORY With Westerners arriving in Aotearoa in 1642 and leaving a distinctly European stamp, it’s hard to visualise how Māori communities once lived, but Kerikeri is one of the best places to see just that. Mission Station, first established in 1819 by missionary Samuel Marsden, houses New Zealand’s oldest historical buildings from the colonial days, and is also in proximity to Kororipo Pā, a terraced fortress that was once the home of Hongi Hika, a revered Māori chief. Te Ahurea is a living village and interactive pā site. This recently redeveloped area is nestled between Kororipo Pā, the Kerikeri Stone Store and Mission House

2. FIND AN IDYLLIC HANGOUT Rainbow Falls are as pretty as the name suggests. Just 10 minutes from the centre of Kerikeri, the water spills with a thunderous grace over a 27m-high ledge. Arguably New Zealand’s bestkept secret, Aroha Island is a short 12km drive from Kerikeri, accessed via causeway or, if you’re feeling adventurous, by kayak. This 12ha sanctuary is an Eden of diverse plant and birdlife, enveloped by glistening water. For walkers, the Kerikeri River Track follows the

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site. Stock up on a range of fresh produce, crafts and vintage clothing at Kerikeri’s Old Packhouse Market: the Bay of Islands’ largest market (helpful hint: take cash). Open every Saturday and Sunday from 8am, go and fill your bags with goodies. Kerikeri is also surrounded by boutique vineyards specialising in small batches.

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riverbank to Wharepuke Falls and its peaceful swimming hole. Dry off and move on to the next dazzling swimming spot called Fairy Pools.

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Kerikeri

to keep on digging • 24km NW of Paihia

THE KAURI WORKSHOP • Plenty of gift ideas for all budgets. • Wide range of handcrafted wood made from New Zealand native timbers including kauri, rimu, totara and pohutukawa. • Overseas shipping available. • Come on in and see our woodturner at work.

www.kerikeri.co/kauri-workshop 500 Kerikeri Rd, Kerikeri • P: 09 407 9196 • E: kauriw@xtra.co.nz

TAKING A SIDE TRIP TO HARURU FALLS: Horseshoe in shape, Haruru means ‘big noise’ in Māori so get ready for a ferocious display. Just 5km from Paihia, pull into the car park and walk two minutes down the track, past daring youngsters flinging themselves off a rope-swing into the lagoon. You can also walk here from the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in 90 minutes or paddle your way upstream from Paihia on a rented kayak. RIDING THE BAY OF ISLANDS VINTAGE RAILWAY: A spectacle for visitors and a mild cause of alarm for drivers, this vintage locomotive is the only working railway in Aotearoa that chugs down a State Highway. Trundling through the bustling town of Kawakawa, ride the rails Friday to Sunday from Kawakawa’s historic 1911 train station. While here check out the Hundertwasser Memorial Park that includes a small museum, public artwork workshops, library and town square. SINKING INTO NGĀWHĀ SPRINGS: At Te Waiariki Ngāwhā Springs natural thermal water bubbles from the earth into 16 rustic geothermal pools. Following a $4.3 million refurb in 2020, there are now an additional eight private pools. Adult prices start from $34 with reduced fees for Northland residents.

CAPE RĒINGA to HOKIANGA HARBOUR

FAR NORTH Cycleway CAPE REINGA

North Cape / Otou

BEST FOR: Bucket-list experiences unique to New Zealand.

Pārengarenga Harbour

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Great Exhibition Bay

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Te Kao

Cape Karikari / Whakapouaka

Rangaunu Bay Pukenui Karikari Houhora Peninsula

TOP TIP – Keep your wits about you on Ninety Mile Beach: it’s shared with vehicles.

Waipapakauri Beach

Mangonui

Taipā

Awanui

Ahipara Bay

Kaitāia Ahipara

open section

Herekino Forest

ferry start/finish point point of interest

Herekino

town café/restaurant toilets

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accommodation

Omahuta Forest

Broadwood

Twin Coast Cycle Trail

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Waihou River

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Warawara Forest

Kohukohu

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MAP LEGEND

RANGIORA RĀWENE

Kauri Coast Cycleway

161km Teeter on the very tip of New Zealand’s North Island and then glide down the western coastline via Ninety Mile Beach. Travelling on a public highway made entirely of sand is just one of the many exhilarating experiences on this trail.

Kaimaumau Doubtless Bay

Rangaunu Harbour

HEARTLAND RIDE • FAR NORTH CYCLEWAY

Giant Sand Dunes

2 days

tart this epic journey in Cape Rēinga, the northernmost point in New Zealand. Whether it’s the dramatic lofty position of the lighthouse, the haunting beauty of the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean crashing into one, or the Māori belief that this is where spirits of the dead depart for Hawaiiki-A-Nui (the land of their ancestors), it’s very atmospheric. From here, the road dips south for an hour before joining the famed Ninety Mile Beach: an official state highway that is actually 88km in length. There’s nothing quite as liberating as cycling at speed along flat golden sand, an ocean breeze licking your face. Once you reach Ahipara, the route heads inland across the countryside to Hokianga Harbour. Roads along this entire route are best suited for reasonably fit riders with biking experience, but the ferry between Kohukohu and Rāwene does provide 2km of respite. In Rāwene, where the trip concludes, duck into the Boatshed Café for good honest food.

riding the trail

bike at Ahipara before heading out of town on Foreshore Rd then Roma Rd. Turn right at the Kaitāia–Awaroa Rd T-intersection. At Herekino, turn left to continue following the Kaitāia–Awaroa Rd. The village of Broadwood lies along this road about 35km from Ahipara. It has a general store. From Broadwood, it is 30km, including a 2km ferry trip, to Rāwene, via Broadwood then Kohukohu Rd. The ferry terminal to Rāwene is 4km south along the coast from Kohukohu. The ferry runs several times a day. It charges a minimal fee for the 15min trip across the Hokianga Harbour to Rāwene.

HEARTLAND RIDE • FAR NORTH CYCLEWAY

he trail starts at Cape Rēinga lighthouse, built in 1941, where you will find interpretation panels and toilets but no other facilities. Rēinga is Māori for ‘underworld’ – Māori believe that the spirits of the dead depart for the underworld from Te Rerenga Wairua. From Cape Rēinga, this route follows SH 1 for around 16km before turning west at Te Paki and following

Kauaeparaoa Stream (also called Te Paki Stream) to the northern end of Ninety Mile Beach. The beach is your ‘highway’ for 80km through to Ahipara, which is also the first and only place beside the beach that has shops. It is a long journey along the beach, but at low tide the beach surface is hard, smooth and fast riding with a tailwind. The only soft sand occurs where streams flow across the beach. Note that the beach is best ridden at low tide. The locals will know the tide times, but you can also check them on the MetService website. It’s worth stopping to wash the salt and sand off your

Highlights of the trail • Cape Rēinga lighthouse is a lovely coastal walk that spies the conspicuous pōhutukawa tree from where Māori spirits bid their last farewell. • Rāwene is New Zealand’s third oldest European township and home to historic Clendon House: the former dwelling of Captain James Reddy Clendon, ship owner, trader and witness to the Treaty of Waitangi. • The 15-minute ferry from Kohukohu to Rāwene is short but scenic. • Kohukohu is a charmingly preserved Victorian village and home to scores of craftspeople. • Herekino Forest Track Climb forest stairs tangled in tree roots while looking for the giant kauri snail, some of which boast 6-8cm shells. • Bodyboard down the enormous Te Paki sand dunes at the northern end of Ninety Mile Beach. • The resin-like gum from kauri trees was highly sought in the 19th century for varnish. Relics

Te Paki Coastal Track © David Kirkland

•

from gum-digging days can be seen at Ahipara Gumfields Historic Reserve. Ahipara boasts some of the best surfing in the country, particularly at Shipwreck Bay. Ninety Mile Beach lends itself to 4WD off-roading, quad biking and horse trekking. Te Whare Whiri Toi art gallery has flax-woven art, Māori paintings and textiles, as well as summer workshops. Te Ahu in Kaitaia is home to the Museum @ Te Ahu, a modern and interactive space.

Cape Rēinga lighthouse © Adobe Stock

EXPLORE MORE AT CAPE RĒINGA SURVILLE CLIFFS Officially the North Island’s northernmost point, but not as easily accessible as Cape Rēinga. You’ll need a 4WD, hardened legs and a special permit. Best admired from afar.

KAPOWAIRUA (SPIRITS BAY) CAMPSITE Having viewed this spiritual bay from the Cape Rēinga Lighthouse walk, enjoy its golden sands and serenity at the scenic DOC campsite. TE PAKI COASTAL TRACK Trace Cape Rēinga coastline from Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) to Ninety Mile Beach and Ahipara over three to four days and 48km. Easy but with some up-hills and drops into several beaches. Those with less time can tackle individual track sections ranging from 45 minutes to several hours. TAPOTUPOTU BEACH CAMPING Arguably the best location for New Zealand’s nicest sunrise AND sunset. This is no-frills camping that’s off-thebeaten track. A small, nearby water channel provides campers with their own lazy river.

KAURI COAST Cycleway

RĀWENE to DARGAVILLE 113km

1-2 days

HEARTLAND HEARTLAND RIDE RIDE •• KAURI KAURI COAST COAST CYCLEWAY CYCLEWAY

Egypt has ancient pyramids; Cambodia has Angkor Wat and New Zealand has kauri trees. With birth dates preceding AD22, these naturemade marvels are a wonder of the world.

tart out in Rāwene, an historic town clutching to the coastline of Hokianga Harbour and then pedal inland to Nature’s great green kingdom: Waipōua Kauri Forest. Caretakers of New Zealand’s oldest if not mightiest residents, gigantic kauri trees tower over 50m above the forest floor. Home to both Tāne Mahuta, our largest kauri tree and Te Matua Ngāhere which is estimated to be almost 3000 years old, these elderly grandfathers enjoy a celebrity-like status. This ancient green world is also home to North Island kōkako and the shy brown kiwi. The terrain soon switches to farmland and ventures past bucolic fields to Dargaville before meeting the mouth of Kaipara Harbour where it concludes. This route comprises 90 percent sealed roads and 10 percent gravel roads with some steep inclines that are best suited to fit riders with experience. With a year-round mild climate, you can enjoy this adventure throughout the year but with rain a common occurrence in Waipōua Forest, pack your raincoat!

HEARTLAND RIDE • KAURI COAST CYCLEWAY

Waipōua Forest

Waipōua Forest: Te Matua Ngāhere © Adobe Stock

riding the trail The whole route between Rāwene and Dargaville is about 8–11hr riding time in all. An overnight stop is therefore suggested. You will inevitably want to get up close with the mighty kauri trees. Please note, however, that kauri dieback disease may mean you can’t access all kauri forest walks; please respect all signage, staying well clear of any areas off-limits. Starting in Rāwene, this route heads out on Parnell Rd to the T-intersection with SH 12. Then turn right and cycle to Ōpononi and on to Ōmāpere. There is a sharp 110m climb out of the far side of Ōmāpere. Twelve kilometres on from Ōmāpere is the small settlement of Waimamaku, which has a café and Four Square grocery store. Beyond Waimamaku, the road climbs into Waipōua Forest. A small descent leads to the car park and a takeaways caravan at the start of the 1min walk to New Zealand’s most famous tree, Tāne Mahuta. New Zealand’s largest living kauri and known as the ‘Lord of the Forest’, this imposing giant has a 13.77m girth, a trunk height of 17.68m and a total height of 51.5m. Please respect all signage in relation to this, and other, forest reserves. From Tāne Mahuta, the road is mostly downhill for 10km. The touring route continues straight ahead on SH 12 and up a 5km climb through forest and across farmland. About 7km from the bridge, either continue to follow SH 12 or take the gravel road to the east, Katui Rd. The gravel option will be slower but has less traffic. If taking the gravel route: follow the road down to Donnellys Crossing, turn right onto Trounson Park Rd and cycle 8km to Trounson Kauri Park. Just after the kauri park, veer right and in 200m is DOC’s Trounson Kauri Park Camping area. Or turn off to Kauri Coast

Top 10 Holiday Park, 100m along Opouteke Rd. Chris the owner is also a cyclist and can send you off on a loop from here to encompass the Maunganui Bluff. Night walks from the Holiday Park are a must, to see kiwi in their natural habitat. Continue along Trounson Park Rd to SH12. Turn left to continue towards Dargaville. Two kilometres after passing Kaihū Tavern, turn left onto Ahikiwi Rd and take the following country roads to Dargaville. Alternatively stay on SH12 and turn right onto Ōmāmari following signs to Kai Iwi Lakes. Turn left onto Maropiu Rd, then right onto Maropiu Settlement Rd. Then 8km from Kaihū, turn left onto Waihue Rd, then 200m later, right onto Opanake Rd. Almost 13km down Opanake Rd, turn left onto Parore West Rd and soon after, right onto Waihue Rd to cruise into Dargaville on Hokianga Rd. Turn right onto Normanby St and on your left 20m along is Time To, a well-stocked bike shop and workshop. Phone 09 439-0100. Dargaville has a Pump track at Selwyn Park and a small mountainbike park at Pōuto o Te Rangi/Harding Park, 2km from town. Follow the signs to the Dargaville Museum and the Vintage Machinery Club which have stunning views. For a small town, Dargaville boasts a lot of art and craft, a prime example being The Woodturners Kauri Studio, which showcases kauri carvings and gives access to a workshop to see how it’s done. And as this is New Zealand’s ‘Kūmara Capital’, it’s no surprise to find a museum dedicated to farm machinery here. Harding Park is home to vintage tractors, harvesters and logging equipment. For amazing views of the area, it’s also worth taking the short, sharp walk to needle-like Tokatoka Peak.

Footprints Waipōua Twilight Encounter – Witness the forest come nightfall on this four-hour tour departing at 6pm (5pm in winter). Cast in spellbinding shadow, visit the 3000-year-old Te Matua Ngāhere kauri tree while your guide explains the forest’s great significance to Māori beliefs.

Highlights of the trail • Dargaville’s Kauri Museum and the Dargaville Museum recount stories of pioneering foresters. The Woodturners Kauri Gallery sells incredible kauri objects and is worth a visit. • The impossibly blue water and platinum-white sand at Kai Iwi Lakes. This place is more Antigua than Aotearoa. • The twin settlements of Ōmāpere and Ōpononi offer beach life and sand-dune surfing.

• Utter peace and quiet at Trounson Kauri Park, a mainland island and 586ha reserve with scores of kauri trees. • Trundle along disused railway lines in a converted golf cart with Dargaville Rail Tours. • Head to Baylys Beach for horse treks and beach strolls. You can also access the 101km fully drivable Ripiro Beach from here.

Dargaville

early settler Joseph Dargaville • 58km SW of Whangārei on SH 14

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KAIPARA

Missing Link HEARTLAND HEARTLANDRIDES RIDE • KAIPARA MISSING LINK

NZ.com

DARGAVILLE to AUCKLAND 2-3 days

118km Kaipara Missing Link provides a connection between Auckland and Northland’s touring routes as well as Great Rides including the Kauri Coast, Far North and Twin Coast cycleways. It’s a route etched with spooky landmarks.

nce you’ve soaked up every Dargaville charm, cycle south-west towards Pōuto Pt, located on the bottom tip of Pōuto Peninsula. This long and exposed bulb of land captivates visitors with its ever-shifting sands, petrified kauri forest and eerie sailor stories. Cycle along a windwhipped beach harassed by an explosive ocean. As you draw closer to Pōuto Pt, you’ll be confronted with the Valley of the Wrecks and The Graveyard, haunting monikers coined from the area’s turbulent seafaring history that has left 150 shipwrecks stranded on its sandbars. Considered one of the most treacherous stretches in the country, skeleton vessels chewed up and spat out by the Tasman Sea lie motionless on the sand. At Pōuto Pt, board a boat heading for Parakai. You’ll be crossing the calm and picturesque Kaipara Harbour before continuing towards the Victorian village of Helensville, and dropping into Auckland, the dazzling City of Sails. TOP TIP: The boat across Kaipara Harbour is not a commercial ferry and only operates for groups and charters. Fortunately, several charter services, including fish charters, operate in the area so an option is to link up with one of these.

Cycling at Woodhill © Woodhill Forest

riding the trail DARGAVILLE TO PŌUTO PT, 65KM

PŌUTO PT TO AUCKLAND CENTRAL, 53KM The cross-harbour boat trip will take you to Parakai, 3km from Helensville. Parakai is known for its geothermal water recreation centre complete with large indoor and outdoor pools, hydroslides, BBQ and picnic areas. Helensville is a good place to break the journey overnight. As well as having plenty of visitor accommodation, there’s also great antique and collectable shops, cafés and hotels housed in pretty Victorian buildings. The route to Auckland continues from Helensville’s main street; simply head right up any side street and you will reach Garfield Rd. Turn right along Garfield Rd, which becomes Wishart Rd and then Old North Rd where it meets Inland Rd on the left. Keep on Old North Rd until Nixon Rd (also known as Taupaki Rd), which becomes Red Hills Rd as it leads to the West Auckland suburb of Massey (19km from downtown Auckland). Your best bet for navigating your way into the city centre is to look up the Auckland Transport Cycle Route maps; many of the routes are well-signposted.

HEARTLAND RIDE • KAIPARA MISSING LINK

Cycle west from Dargaville on River Rd, which becomes Pōuto Rd. At the 11km mark is the village of Te Kōpuru, which has a general store. There are two options from Te Kōpuru – the beach ride or the road. The beach ride is the best way to go when the wind direction is favourable, but note that it’s only possible to ride on the beach within 2.5hr either side of low tide, so check the tide times carefully before committing. To reach the beach, turn right onto West Coast Rd, then left onto Redhill Rd, right onto Glinks Rd and cycle out to the coast. For the road option, simply continue from Te Kōpuru along Pōuto Rd directly to Pōuto Pt. It’s worth taking the detour down to Kellys Bay; look for the left turn down a gravel road at around the 45km mark (from Dargaville). You can then take the steep gravel-road climb out of the back to loop back to Pōuto Rd 5km further southwest. A boat trip can be arranged across Kaipara Harbour from Pōuto Village to Parakai, 3km from Helensville. The Kaipara Harbour crossing will need to be arranged in advance, with the main options being Kaipara Cruises or a charter service. It’s also worth considering taking a fishing trip, which will not only get you across the harbour but make a real adventure of it! At 7.1km when passing Maxwell Rd, look left to see the smallest church in New Zealand. An entertaining and interesting 1hr show about a vegetable can be seen here. Pōuto Pt is a timeless Kiwi bach town. 2km before town is the beautiful Waikāretu Marae. If you book in advance you can be welcomed on with a pōwhiri before enjoying a meal and local stories. Bike wash facilities available, showers and accommodation in the marae or a place to pitch your tent. Phone Ella on 027 277 7797. Alternatively ride into Pōuto and turn left up Signal Station Rd for 200m to get to the Marine Hall and camping or go straight down to the beach to catch the boat. If staying in Pōuto, a 9km ride on the beach will take you to the foot of the lighthouse up on the sand dune.

More mountain biking, please RIVERHEAD MOUNTAIN BIKING: Cycle 40 minutes out of Kumeū to Riverhead Forest. The free purpose-built compound boasts trails for all skill levels, as well as Auckland’s best pump tracks. N.B. Winters are wet, making it more of a fair-weather park.

WOODHILL MOUNTAIN BIKING: Open year-round, Woodhill is a 40-minute ride in the opposite direction to Riverhead Forest. A great spot for beginner and intermediate riders, it has sandy tracks. Entry incurs a fee, but facilities include a shop, café and bike rental.

Highlights of the trail

Pōuto © Adobe Stock

• Visit Kumeū’s various wineries. Popular options are Soljans, Coopers Creek and Kumeū River Wines as well as The Hunting Lodge Winery & Restaurant in Waimauku. • Detour to Pōuto Lighthouse: New Zealand’s oldest wooden lighthouse. Climb the sandy bluff for views across the Valley of the Wrecks and Tasman Sea. • Kellys Bay is a small rural seaside community with a good beach and great fishing. • Rejuvenate weary legs at newly refurbished Palm Springs Geothermal Pools in Parakai. • Hallertau Brewery shouldn’t be missed if you like good ale, hearty food and live music. • Try a spot of frisbee golf or swoosh through the trees on flying foxes in Woodhill Forest. • Helensville features restored Victorian buildings housing cafés and shops selling collectables. • Enjoy Helensville’s Railway Museum and Riverside Walkway as well as fishing charters and harbour cruises. • Riverhead Tavern is slightly off your main route but its heritage dates back over 150 years.

GREAT RIDE • HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL

TRAIL INFO

HAURAKI

3-5 Days 160km

Rail Trail

TRAIL GRADES:

BEST FOR: Riders of all abilities looking for a laid-back adventure.

KAIAUA to MATAMATA 160km

3-5 days

Embark on a five-section cycleway that is both gentle and flat and therefore ideal for everyday riders including children. You can tackle all five segments at once, or pick one section for a pleasant day trip. Karangahake Gorge Historic Walkway This historic railway walk is just an eight-minute drive from Paeroa. The Rail Tunnel Loop is 45 minutes return whereas the Historic Walkway to Waikino is four hours. Both tracks absorb the stunning gorge, gold-mining relics and 1km rail tunnel.

rab some binoculars because this ride commences (or culminates depending on your direction) along the Shorebird Coast, aptly named for its abundant birdlife that can exceed 10,000 in number. The route from Kaiaua to Thames presents Wetlands of International Significance, tranquil farmland, natural hot springs at Pūkorokoro Miranda and café stops in the villages of Waitakaruru, Pipiroa, Kopu and Thames.

Under the watchful eye of curious cows, Paeroa is one of many charming townships you’ll discover along the way, and noteworthy for its giant L&P bottle. This signature Kiwi drink is a national favourite. Soon to be yours. The return trip to Waihi does add an additional six to eight hours to your schedule but is a major highlight with the 1100m tunnel complete with glowworms a huge drawcard. Gold mines define this area, with Karangahake Gorge and Victoria Battery bringing history front of mind. Back on the original route, glide under the gaze of Mt Te Aroha (‘the Mountain of Love’) and past farms resonating with vocal goats and alpacas, making headway to Matamata and Hobbiton. TOP TIP – The trail is achievable year-round and is wide, flat and smooth. There are a handful of gentle gradients and some short road sections.

KAIAUA TO THAMES 53KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) THAMES TO PAEROA 34KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) PAEROA TO WAIHI 24KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) & GRADE 2 (EASY) PAEROA TO TE AROHA 23KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) TE AROHA TO MATAMATA 37KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Mobile phone coverage is generally good; it can get patchy within the narrows of Karangahake Gorge. REFRESHMENTS: We recommend carrying plenty of snacks and drinks to keep you fuelled up; this is especially important out of peak season when some cafés and shops run on limited hours. Water bottles can be filled at settlements along the way; be sure to carry plenty on hot days. TYPE OF BIKE: Friendly rail trail terrain makes this suitable for everything from children’s bikes and uprights, to touring bikes, mountain bikes and e-bikes. GRADE 1 (EASIEST) GRADE 2 (EASY)

PAEROA TO WAIHI, 24KM

KAIAUA TO THAMES, 53KM Named ‘The Journey of Te Aho’, this section of trail follows in the footsteps of early Māori settler Te Aho. Starting from Kaiaua, it winds around the edge of the shallow Firth of Thames, over chenier shell banks and through wetlands of international significance. Visit the Pūkorokoro–Miranda Shorebird Centre where you can learn about the area’s precious birdlife before heading out to the hides to see them for yourself. Fanatical twitchers may wish to check ahead for the arrival and departure schedules of various migratory species. From Miranda Holiday Park, the trail skirts around the Firth, following stop-banks for much of the way. There are expansive views of coastal wetlands and verdant farmland, with the volcanic Coromandel Ranges a dramatic backdrop. Refreshments are

available in the villages of Waitakaruru, Pipiroa and Kopu. After the Kopu Bridge, the trail turns northwards for a few kilometres to reach Thames, an atmospheric town with plenty of dining and accommodation options. As you approach the town centre, look out for various sculptures along the community’s art trail. The Coromandel Distillery Co in The Depot, Grahamstown is a definite must-visit while in Thames.

THAMES TO PAEROA, 34KM This richly historic area was once only accessible via the two rivers, Waihou and Hikutaiā. The Māori people believed that the deep valleys cutting through the Coromandel Ranges were carved by the thrashing tail of a taniwha. This is also the place where bushmen, gumdiggers and gold miners sought their fortunes, routinely

The most popular section of the Hauraki Rail Trail follows the Ohinemuri River through the dramatic Karangahake Gorge, a deep canyon cut through the Kaimai Ranges. Highlights of the gorge include a cascading waterfall, photogenic gold-mining sites and the charmingly old-fashioned Victoria Battery museum, plus the freaky Windows Walkway that burrows through a shadowy side-gorge. The pièce de résistance is an amazing 1100m-long railway tunnel, wobbled through with the aid of a torch. Near the halfway point is cute Waikino Station where there’s a café for a breather. This is the terminus of the train that runs between Waikino and Waihi; it’s well worth timing your riding to coincide with its running times as it’s a pretty special experience. Otherwise, it’s another 8km of riding to Waihi. With plenty of accommodation and places to eat – as well as proximity to glorious beaches – Waihi is a great base for your Hauraki adventures. This ‘Heart of Gold’ town still has an operational mine that can be visited on tours, plus the wonderfully interactive museum known as the Gold Discovery Centre. continued on p.28

GREAT RIDE • HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL

crossing over to the eastern side of the ranges on rugged bush tracks through forests of mighty kauri. It is amid this history that this section of trail begins, at first following the old railway line out of Thames town and onward through lush farmland with the impressive ranges a constant companion to the east. Matātoki’s Cheese Barn and the Convenient Cow Café at Hikutaiā are nicely spaced pit-stops. Near Paeroa, it’s also just a short detour to the Historical Maritime Park where you can catch a boat ride on the Waihou River with your bike. Paeroa, at the southern end of this section is ‘world famous in New Zealand’ for its giant L&P bottle – a homage to home-grown soda-pop. Its antique shops are also notable. There’s also accommodation and places to eat for riders wanting to overnight here.

continued from p.27

PAEROA TO TE AROHA, 23KM Heading south, this leisurely section passes through pretty Waikato farmland dotted with dairy cows. Front and centre are the bushy Kaimai–Mamaku Ranges and their 952m-highpoint Mt Te Aroha (952m; ‘the mountain of love’), plus wideranging views over the Hauraki Plains. This section of the trail ends in the small rural town of Te Aroha with historic mineral hot pools – a great way to soothe pedalweary muscles. Te Aroha also has a lovely town domain, and is home to some great cafés. If you’re after an adventure, check out the expert tour operator, Adventure Te Aroha who offer kayak and stand-up paddleboard tours on the Waihou River.

TE AROHA TO MATAMATA, 37KM

GREAT RIDE • HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL

This new and gentle section of the trail passes through fertile plains and significant horse studs. It ends (or starts) in the vicinity of the Matamata i-SITE. The Hobbiton Movie Set is approximately a 30-minute drive from Matamata where visitors can get their Hobbit and The Lord Of The Rings fix (it’s well worth going for the gardens alone, never mind a refreshing pint at the Green Dragon Inn!) Along the way it passes various landmarks including the scenic Wairere Falls, Stanley Landing and the Firth Tower with two new great cafés along the way. If you’re looking for quirky accommodation in Matamata, then head to the House With No Nails. Enjoy the beautiful mountain views from this handcrafted timber frame home.

LEFT: Hobbiton © Destination Rotorua BELOW: Goldfields Train © Coromandel Tourism

Highlights of the trail • Visit Pūkorokoro Miranda Shorebird Centre for information on migratory shorebirds. • Stay at Miranda Holiday Park and relax in their thermally heated fresh mineral pools. • Kaiaua is the ideal laid-back coastal community to sit by the sea and chill out. • Taste award-winning Gouda on the veranda at The Cheese Barn in Matātoki. • Pose for a picture with the seven-metre L&P bottle in Paeroa.

• Venture along the old walkways and forgotten tunnels that make up Karangahake Gorge. • Relax into the hot pools at Te Aroha. • Te Aroha’s restored Edwardian Hot Springs Domain has mineral spas and swimming facilities. In addition, the 1898 Cadman Bathhouse houses a museum. • Mokena Geyser is the world’s only soda geyser and explodes every 40 minutes. • Get off your bike and onto the Goldfields train for a ride between Waihi and Waikino Station.

• The colourful rural town of Katikati is awash with murals, sculptures, mosaics and tapestries. • Katikati Bird Gardens has lily ponds, secret paths and a café. • Visit the historic Firth Tower Museum in Matamata and if you’ve arrived in a self-contained motor home or caravan, you’re entry fee entitles you to park overnight for free. • A goblet of ale awaits your arrival at The Green Dragon™ Inn in Hobbiton near Matamata.

More mountain biking, please

he Hauraki Rail Trail is flat and gentle so you might like to up the ante with some rugged mountain biking at Te Aroha Mountain Bike Tracks near Te Aroha. Offering a one-way loop of grade 3 tracks, there’s also the option for a more advanced, grade 5 experience. Best for those who consider themselves a medium or advanced rider, soak up the bush scenery complete with streams and waterfalls as you hurtle downhill.

Kaiaua

to eat mullet or herrings • 44.5km NW of Thames

Kaiaua Fisheries Restaurant & Takeaways 941 East Coast Road, Kaiaua • Phone: +64 9 232 2776 Email: kaiauafisheries@gmail.com • Kaiaua’s famous fish ‘n chips. Licensed restaurant or takeaway food. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. • Enjoy views of the Coromandel Peninsula, covered deck & tables. • Only 1hr from Auckland & 30min from Thames. • Visit Google Business for opening hours. Group bookings welcome.

Golden Thames

Thames Coast © Coromandel Tourism

Top towns along the trail Hobbiton & Matamata

Waihi

rising water • 63km NW of Tauranga

Okay, we’ll confess, Hobbiton is a fictional ‘top town’ but definitely worth a visit, especially if you’re a Lord of the Rings or Hobbit fan. All Hobbiton™ Movie Set Tours depart from 501 Buckland Rd, a 15-minute drive from the Matamata i-SITE Visitor Information Centre (which is itself an adorable Hobbit House). Enjoy a two-hour guided Hobbiton tour complete with complimentary beverage at The Green Dragon™ Inn. If Hobbiton isn’t on the agenda, Matamata has plenty to offer. Visit the 153m-high Wairere Falls, the highest waterfall in the North Island; walk the 1hr 40min looped Matamata Heritage Trail or check out the Firth Tower Museum that was built in 1882. Absorb the region’s history in displays spread across 13 buildings, summit the tower and picnic under a cloak of oak trees.

GREAT RIDE • HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL

Once the largest town in New Zealand, in 1896 Thames’ pavements weren’t paved in gold, but they could’ve been, such was the abundance of it. Grahamstown is the heritage end of Thames, with historic buildings dating back to the glory days. Discover artefacts at the Thames Historical Museum or try your luck at gold panning at The Gold Mine Experience, complete with self-guided tour, mining relics and steam-powered machines. The Captain Cook Memorial is located on nearby Waihou River. A three-tonne steel ship’s anchor commemorates Captain James Cook’s endeavours in the HaurakiCoromandel area, and makes the perfect picnic spot. View spectacular sunsets along the Thames Coast Rd or stretch your legs on the three-hour return Thames Coastal Walk. Lesser known but equally rewarding is the three-hour return Rocky’s Walk.

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Martha Mine

INCLUDING SPORTS & MOVIES

a To gakak Karan Town Centre

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t on m se d R

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POP-TASTIC PAEROA

Gold mine in Waihi © Coromandel Tourism

In 1908, the good folk of Paeroa discovered that adding lemon to the local spring water was downright delicious and thus L&P (or Lemon and Paeroa to use its full name) was born. Standing beneath the town’s giant-size L&P bottle is obligatory. Paeroa is also the ‘Antiques Capital of New Zealand’ and there’s a flurry of stores to peruse. For local talent, nip into the Paeroa Society of Arts or admire the works at Mikkelsen Gallery. Beautiful Karangahake Gorge is on the doorstep and rich in gold-mining relics. Don’t miss spellbinding views across the Waitāwheta River while traipsing the Windows Walkway or go in search of Owharoa Falls via the Karangahake Gorge Historic Walkway. A little further afield is The Historical Maritime Park and Bullswool Farm Heritage Park which boasts a traditional milking shed, kauri museum, sheep shed and farmyard.

GREAT RIDE • HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL

Why Waihi?

L&P sculpture, Paeroa © AATP

T Waihi Beach

he section between Paeroa and Waihi features historic railway, including original railway bridges. Skirt the edges of Ohinemuri River and delve into old mining tunnels along the Karangahake Gorge. Pass the remnants of the Waikino Victoria Battery and imagine the roar it made in 1896 while crushing more than 800 tonnes of gold-bearing stone. In Waihi, discover The Secret Garden, a Bali inspired café and hangout

as well as the fascinating Mosaic Garden, created by talented artist, Jude Morrah. For dreamy sun-soaked sand, perfect for lazy afternoons and picnics, Waihi Beach offers 9km of dazzling shoreline and one of the safest beaches in New Zealand for surfing. At the southern end of Waihi Beach sits the small settlement of Bowentown where you can embark on pleasant walks, explore former pā sites or enjoy safe, relaxed swims at Anchor Bay.

gushing water • 11km E of Waihi

Moments of Thrill.

STAY AT TASMAN HOLIDAY PARKS - BEACHAVEN

Moments of Cool Down.

STAY AT TASMAN HOLIDAY PARKS - WAIHI BEACH

Find your moment of thrill at Tasman Holiday Parks - Beachaven. Spend the day cycling and retreat here for a pizza cooked on the woodfire oven.

Fancy a cold dip after exploring the Hauraki trail? Find your moment of relaxation in Tasman’s Waihi Beach swimming pool.

TASMANHOLIDAYPARKS.COM /CYCLE

WAIKATO RIVER

Cycling Waikato River Trails © Jodi Sweetman Photography

Trails

GREAT RIDE • WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

TRAIL INFO

1-4 Days 104km

KARĀPIRO to ĀTIAMURI 1-4 days

104km

Off-road and upstream, this southwardbound trail traces the banks of New Zealand’s longest river: the almighty Waikato. A dot-to-dot trail of river dams strewn between great stretches of forest, wetland and rock, it’s a landscape engineered by both Mother Nature and mankind.

his Grade 3-4 trail does incur a good deal of alternating sharp ascents and descents, as well as approximately 600m of climbing, so a decent level of fitness is beneficial. Cycle from Pokaiwhenua Bridge to Little Waipa Reserve on the edge of Lake Karāpiro and stop in Arapuni for lunch at The Rhubarb Café; a firm favourite with locals and visitors alike. Notable behemoths include this dazzling monstrosity

BEST FOR: A ‘dam’ fine way to marvel at the brilliance of natural and human ingenuity.

and later, Whakamaru Dam and Maraetai Dam. Awesome in the true sense of the word, there is beauty to be found in their crude concrete features. At certain times of the year, Lake Maraetai appears to be swathed in snow, but it is the fallen fluffy seeds from surrounding poplar trees. Mangakino boasts a distinct lack of development (the locals won’t mind telling you there isn’t a single McDonald’s here) and the lakefront is a sleepy nugget

TRAIL GRADES: KARĀPIRO (POKAIWHENUA BRIDGE TO ARAPUNI) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) ARAPUNI (ARAPUNI TO WAIPAPA DAM) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) WAIPAPA (WAIPAPA DAM TO MANGAKINO LAKEFRONT) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) MARAETAI (MANGAKINO LAKEFRONT TO WHAKAMARU DAM) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

Bridge the gap The bridges on this trail span from scenic to thrillingly high. The Arapuni Suspension Bridge is a staggering 152m long and 54m above the river.

of paradise, popular for boating, fishing, birdwatching and kayaking. Move onto Whakamaru, where, as well as the hydro dam, there is a dazzling sheltered lake. From here, push on to Ātiamuri, your final destination. Not wanting to be the odd one out, Ātiamuri also has its own power-producing hydro dam. TOP TIP – This 104km track is split into five sections so you can do it all or pick your favourite part.

WHAKAMARU (WHAKAMARU DAM TO ĀTIAMURI VILLAGE) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) IMPORTANT INFORMATION: Sometimes trail sections are closed due to logging operations. Before starting out, check www.waikatorivertrails.co.nz and respect closures and signage. Dogs are prohibited on many sections of the trail. MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Mobile phone coverage is reasonably reliable on the Karāpiro, Whakamaru and Maraetai sections. It gets patchy beyond there, particularly on the Arapuni and Waipapa sections. TYPE OF BIKE: Mountain bikes are recommended. E-bikes are also permitted. WATER: Taps to fill your water bottles in the villages along the way, namely Arapuni, Mangakino and Whakamaru. GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

GREAT RIDE • WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

ABOVE: Cycling Waikato River Trails © Jodi Sweetman Photography

WAIPAPA (WAIPAPA DAM TO MANGAKINO LAKEFRONT), 19.6KM This remote, fun section undulates in a generally uphill direction, with the occasional steep section giving it its Grade 4 rating. The trail follows custom-built singletrack and flowing forestry trails through a mix of exotic and regenerating native bush. Note that once on the trail, there’s no way off, except at Maraetai Dam.

MARAETAI (MANGAKINO LAKEFRONT TO WHAKAMARU DAM),12.3KM

This moderately technical leg is mostly an easy ride, but the occasional steep section ramps it up to Grade 3. It starts by climbing gently towards Whakamaru Dam with lovely views along Lake Maraetai. Around the midway point is a graceful 70m-long suspension bridge crossing the Mangakino Stream. This leafy part of the trail has been beautified even further by the thousands of trees planted as part of the Waikato River restoration project.

WHAKAMARU DAM TO ĀTIAMURI, 26KM

KARĀPIRO (POKAIWHENUA BRIDGE TO ARAPUNI), 11.5KM From the Pokaiwhenua Bridge car park the first half of the trail follows an easy path beside the road, before winding beside Lake Karāpiro for the rest of the way to Arapuni. As the trail nears the village it crosses the Huihuitaha Wetland via 500m of boardwalk. This allows riders to pass through the area without damaging this special riparian habitat. Even if you’re not heading to Arapuni’s

Rhubarb Café (highly recommended), it’s essential to experience the knee-wobbling crossing of the Arapuni Suspension Bridge. At 152m long and over 50m high, it’s one of New Zealand’s longest pedestrian (and cycling) bridges.

ARAPUNI (ARAPUNI TO WAIPAPA DAM), 34.6KM This section of trail starts at the Arapuni Swingbridge, after 2km it joins country roads through to Waipapa Dam, the route is well sign posted. The road section is

mostly sealed with a short section of unsealed road. The gradient includes some long steep climbs. Half way through this section is the Arohena conservation campsite, a good place to rest or camp. On the opposite side of the Waikato River, the trail between Arapuni Dam to Jones Landing (4km) and Waipapa Dam to Mangarewa suspension bridge (10km) is also open however there is no continuous trail connecting these two areas. For those riding the whole trail the western route must be used.

The southernmost section starts at Whakamaru Dam, although many riders actually start at the nearby Dam Café. The trail follows the lake edge, initially passing through Lake Whakamaru Reserve. Around midway, bluffs rise dramatically from the lake providing a stunning backdrop, while just shy of Ātiamuri is the magnificent and culturally significant Pōhaturoa Rock, lifted by volcanic forces and weathered by the elements over the millennia. The trail ends at a parking area in Ātiamuri Village, a common pick-up or drop-off point for shuttles.

GREAT RIDE • WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

Waikato’s urban gems

GREAT RIDE • WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

Hamilton city © Adobe Stock

Hamilton City 125km S of Auckland

Waikato Tracks & Trails

HAMILTON

aste all five award-winning teas at Zealong Estate; New Zealand’s only tea plantation. Tour the estate, taste the leaves or enjoy a high tea.

Hamilton also has oodles of green spaces. Walk the 3.8km perimeter of Hamilton Lake or visit Hamilton Gardens. With free entry and a series of internationally themed gardens, you can visit the entire world in one afternoon. With its collection of 600-plus native and exotic animals, Hamilton Zoo is popular with families, and The Waikato Museum represents Māori as well as European history in fascinating detail. Visit the renowned Classic Museum for its huge collection of vintage cars and its retro American diner for a burger.

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Explore the Mighty Waikato by bike with hundreds of kilometres of trail to discover, offering riders a close-up look at the region’s picturesque scenery and fascinating past, the Mighty Waikato is the perfect place for your next cycling getaway.

waikatonz.com/cycling 34

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CAMBRIDGE

GREAT RIDE • WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

ecause Cambridge is influenced by England, and not solely by name, the aesthetics have a certain Britishness to them. However, Kiwi characteristics by no means take a back foot. Farm tours are available and bird sanctuaries such as Maungatautari offer guided tours to see such native species as takahē and tuatara. Fortunately, Cambridge doesn’t borrow its weather from England so when the sun shines, Lake Karāpiro implores you to grab a stand-up paddleboard. For something niche, after-dark kayaking excursions result in a galaxy of glowworms. Can’t get enough of these brightbutted larvae? Come nightfall, Pokaiwhenua Stream lights up like a Christmas tree.

LEFT: Cambridge Hall © Hamilton & Waikato Tourism

Highlights of the trail • Countless riverside reserves provide the perfect spot for picnics and if you’re packing a tent, camping spots. • The sheer remoteness of this trail allows for long stretches of empty track. • Arapuni Suspension Bridge is 152m long, over 50m high and a total show stopper. Refuel at nearby Rhubarb Café. • With so much water, wetland and bush, the birdlife is abundant. • Detours to local pubs in small, hospitable towns such as Tokoroa, Putāruru, Maraetai and Mangakino (amongst others) is a must.

• Take a breather at the Bus Stop Café on the Mangakino lakefront. • Part of a 1000ha forest, Jim Barnett Reserve features several walking trails amidst rejuvenated forest. Keep an eye out for petite North Island robins. • Soak up the picture-perfect beauty of Jones Landing, a small reserve with public toilets, playground, and due to all the boaties, a jovial vibe. • Pōhaturoa Rock near Ātiamuri, stands 520m tall and is the result of significant volcanic activity more than 500,000 years ago. More recently, it acted as a natural fortress for Māori tribes.

ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAILS CAMBRIDGE-WAIKATO RIVER CONNECTION: 40km/2–3 days. Following town streets, country roads and riverside, this route links Cambridge with the Waikato River Trail at Arapuni. CENTRE OF THE NORTH ISLAND: 50km/1 day. This route connects the Waikato River Trails and the Timber Trail via backcountry and forest.

Waikato River Trails © Hamilton & Waikato Tourism

MORE MOUNTAIN BIKING, PLEASE

or mountain bike tracks off the main route but worth a detour, Hamilton Mountain Bike Track is great for beginners or rusty cyclists. Tackle 10km of single track and Grade 2-3 terrain.

If you’re after diversity, Cougar Mountain Bike Park near Tokoroa offers 35km of Grade 3-5 off-road forest tracks, and if you’re passing through Cambridge, Te Miro Mountain Bike Park is less than 30 minutes away, with a variety of Grade 2-4 single track trails and many obstacles

GREAT RIDE • TE ARA AHI – THERMAL BY BIKE

TRAIL INFO

BEST FOR: Non-stop geothermal wonders that will knock your socks off.

ROTORUA to WAIKITE VALLEY 2 days

48km

There aren’t many places in the world where you can cycle past gurgling mud pools and spewing geysers before dismounting your bike and sinking into an all-natural thermal river. This is the Te Ara Ahi cycle trail and there’s nowhere quite like it.

olcanoes are the founding fathers of New Zealand so you’re never too far from geothermal energy. Dubbed Te Ara Ahi - Thermal by Bike, this 48km

trail covers four fascinating volcanic areas and snakes through some of Rotorua’s most impressive hot spots. Before you depart the ever-

steaming (and we won’t lie, perpetual stench) of Rotorua, take a dip in Te Ranga thermal river. Locally known as Kerosene Creek, these naturally heated waters are nature’s most relaxing ointment. From here, head towards the geothermal fields of Whakarewarewa and into the Waimangu Volcanic Valley. Whakarewarewa Village is home to the ancestors of those who survived the 1886 eruption of Mt Tarawera, an event that completely obliterated the famed Pink and White Terraces; once considered a Wonder of the World. Continue to Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland and onwards to Waikite Valley Thermal Springs where the trail concludes. This is a smooth and gently undulating journey. Some sections feature technical single-track and short but steep climbs, particularly between Waimangu and Waiotapu. It’s considered an all-season trail, but things can get muddy between June and August when conditions could also be frosty. ABOVE: Te Ara Ahi – Redwoods © Destination Rotorua RIGHT: Whakarewarewa Forest Loop © Tess Richardson

2 Days 48km

TRAIL GRADES: ROTORUA TO WAIMANGU VOLCANIC VALLEY GRADES 2-3 (EASY TO INTERMEDIATE) A 30km ride taking 3-4 hours. WAIMANGU VOLCANIC VALLEY TO WAIKITE VALLEY THERMAL POOLS GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) An 18km ride taking 2-3 hours. MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good along most of the trail. DRINKING WATER: Fresh drinking water is available at cafés at the Rotorua mountain bike car park in the Waipa Valley, Waimangu Volcanic Valley, Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland, Waikite Valley Thermal Pools and at Lake Okaro and the Waiotapu Tavern. TYPE OF BIKE: Hybrid bikes will suffice for most of this trail although a mountain bike is better suited to off-road sections and detours into the Redwoods Mountain Bike Park, or up Rainbow Mountain. GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

riding the trail

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Rotorua

Waimangu

30km

Waikite Valley Thermal Pools

18km

‘Nowhere else in the world can you get on a push bike and ride for 48km past four geothermal attractions.’ Todd McClay, MP for Rotorua

600m 400m 200m 0m

Lake Rotorua

ROTORUA

Sulphur Bay Reserve

Lake Okataina

Hemo Gorge MAP LEGEND

Tikitapu (Blue Lake)

open section optional route

Lake Rotokākahi (Green Lake)

start/finish point

Lake Tarawera

point of interest AA Centre

Tāmaki Maori Village

i-SITE Visitor Centre

Lake Rotomahana

town

WAIMANGU

café/restaurant

Okaro Road Lake Okaro

toilets

camping car park accommodation

W a

state highway

WAIKITE VALLEY THERMAL POOLS d Roa V a ll e y ti e ik

Waikite Valley Road

Waiotapu

Whirinaki Stream

Te Ko pi

38 Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland

to Wairoa

ad Ro

Rainbow Mountain Kerosene Creek (Te Ranga)

a ro

e Lak ri aku Oh

Waihunuhunu Stream

to Taupō

Whakarewarewa Forest Loop This new circular route, one way, through its famous namesake forest just 10 minutes’ drive from the centre of Rotorua, has been designed for people of almost all ages, abilities and fitness levels. Riders, including those on e-bikes, are loving it. You don’t have to be a professional downhiller; as long as you’re a confident rider, you’ll find the variety of uphill, downhill and flat sections interesting, fun and fairly easy to navigate.

TOP TIP – Unless you want to return via the same track, make sure you pre-book a shuttle in advance to take you back to Rotorua or Taupō.

ROTORUA TO WAIMANGU VOLCANIC VALLEY, 30KM Using Rotorua i-SITE as a start-point, ride east on Queen St to the official start of the trail at the Princes Gate Archway a few hundred metres away. The trail is well-signposted around the edge of Lake Rotorua. At the 6km mark it reaches Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve & Māori Village, an area inhabited for more than 700 years and home to many surviving families of

GREAT RIDE • TE ARA AHI – THERMAL BY BIKE

Lake Okāreka Whakarewarewa Te Puia Whakarewarewa MTB Park

Mt Tarawera’s devastating 1886 eruption. You can learn more on regular guided tours. From the village turn-off, Te Ara Ahi continues south past Te Puia, another notable geothermal park with dramatic bubbling pools and the famous Pohutu Geyser. Te Puia is also a great place to engage with living Māori culture through rousing concert performances and the beautiful work produced by the New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute on site. The trail then leaves Rotorua town via Hemo Gorge. On your left it’s impossible to miss the entrance to the Redwoods Mountain Bike Park down Waipa State Mill Rd; even if you’re not riding, it’s well worth swinging into the ‘Hub’ for a coffee and chat with local riders. Te Ara Ahi turns into a concrete pathway and continues alongside busy SH 5. It’s a smooth and easy ride to Waimangu Rd turn off, which the trail then takes to reach Waimangu Volcanic Valley – one of the world’s youngest thermal areas. Enjoy refreshments in the café here, or pay the admittance fee to take a walk amidst the park’s unique features.

WAIMANGU VOLCANIC VALLEY TO WAIKITE VALLEY THERMAL POOLS, 18KM From Waimangu Volcanic Valley, the trail continues onward along Waimangu Rd, past Lake Okaro picnic area (where there are campsites available) and on to SH 38. After crossing the highway, the trail follows an off-road cycle path around Rainbow Mountain, passing a roadside picnic area, before dropping down to cross Old Waiotapu Rd. At this point you can turn left to go to Te Ranga (a thermally heated stream locally known as Kerosene Creek) or carry on straight ahead on an off-road trail all the way to Waiotapu. Parts of the trail are steep and some walking may be required. Waiotapu has a hotel with accommodation, petrol station, and a honey factory with a café and shop. Only 2km away is Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland, another of the area’s famous volcanic areas featuring brilliantly coloured waters, steam and bubbling mud galore. From Waiotapu, the trail heads along Waikite Valley Rd for 6km to reach Waikite Valley Thermal Pools, a rewarding attraction blending various hot pools with geological sights, camping and a café.

Highlights of the trail

GREAT RIDE • TE ARA AHI – THERMAL BY BIKE

• Come dusk, Te Puia guides will sneak you into the geothermal valley through a secret passage on a guided night trail concluding at the world-famous Pōhutu Geyser glowing under the night’s sky. • Secret Spot Hot Tubs are submerged in the Whakarewarewa Forest Park. Book a private hot tub and order chilled drinks. • In Rotorua, dine well at lively Eat Streat, visit up to 18 lakes or walk under the umbrella of almighty Redwood giants in The Redwoods – Whakarewarewa Forest. • Just minutes away from Rotorua city centre are the free Kuirau Park foot pools. • With steaming vents and boiling mud pools right on the shores of Lake Rotorua, Sulphur Point is a particularly stunning section of the trail. • In Waimangu Volcanic Valley, self-guided walks range from 1.5km jaunts to 4.5km hikes, while the 45-minute lake

cruise visits geothermal sites not accessible on foot. • The surreal landscape of Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland includes a lunarlike terrain, mud pools and coloured ponds. Don’t miss the daily explosion of Lady Knox Geyser at 10.15am. • At Waikite Valley Thermal Springs, water is supplied from the largest single source of 100 percent pure geothermal water in New Zealand. • Take the gondola to the top of Skyline Rotorua to sample Volcanic Hills wines.

Waimangu Volcanic Valley • LEFT: Redwood Forest. BOTH IMAGES: © Destination Rotorua

Rotorua City

second lake • 108km SE of Hamilton on SH 5

from

per nig

Welcome to the Accommodation @ Rotorua Citizens Club located in the heart of Rotorua’s CBD. We are only a short stroll from the Lakefront, Museum, Government Gardens, Energy Events Centre, Convention Centre, Kuirau Park, Polynesian Pools, Aquatic Centre and the shopping area in the central city. Our club is proud of our accommodation facility, we offer 18 rooms, 15 with ensuites, 10 standard, 2 with access facilities, 1 family, 4 twin, 1 single & 2 dormstyle for groups/teams. SKY TV 50+ channels. Tariff: from $99 & dorm beds from $35 single, $50 double. Courtesy vehicle available for local pick ups and drop offs.

1146 Rangiuru Street (Cnr of Arawa & Rangiuru) Ph: +64 7 348 3066 • Fax +64 7 343 6032 • www.rotoruacitizensclub.co.nz E: accommodation@rotoruacitizensclub.co.nz

HISTORIC. THERAPEUTIC. WORLD-FAMOUS. + 64 7 3 4 8 1 3 2 8 | P OLYN ESI A N SPA .CO.N Z

GREAT RIDE • TE ARA AHI – THERMAL BY BIKE

rotoruanz.com www.rotoruanz.com/explore/mountain-biking

Rotorua will test your nerve GREAT RIDE • TE ARA AHI – THERMAL BY BIKE

OFF ROAD NZ For an action-packed, full-on adventure that’s extra fun, grab your mates and take a 20-minute drive from Rotorua to Off Road NZ. Buckle up and hold on tight for a pulseracing ride through native bush in a monster 4x4 or race a 390cc 4-stroke kart on New Zealand’s longest outdoor circuit.

THE LUGE

This family-friendly go-kart (of sorts) can be driven downhill at great speed on specially designed tracks. Catch the gondola up Mt Ngongotaha to access the start line.

AGROJET

Just as ferocious as it sounds, this is New Zealand’s fastest jet boating experience, delivering 3Gs of force, speeds of up to 100kmph and 360-degree twists.

ZORBING Rotorua

invented ZORB (or zorbing), the bizarre yet thrilling sport of rolling downhill inside a giant, inflatable ball. It’s also the only place in New Zealand where you can experience it.

VELOCITY VALLEY Find giant sky swings, jet boats, aerodynamic racing pods, bungy jumps, simulated skydives and a soft freestyle airbag to practice your bike tricks. Zorbing in Rotorua © Destination Rotorua RIGHT: Off Road NZ © Graeme Murray

Fun in the treetops

WHITE-WATER RAFTING The highest commercially rafted waterfall in the world – the 7m Tutea Falls – can be conquered by white-water rafting down Kaituna River, 20 minutes from Rotorua. Mamaku Forest’s southern nib tickles the Mamaku Plateau near Rotorua. A haven for both birds and birdwatchers, chirpy fellas include kaka, tui, bellbirds and more.

splendid, bubble-gum pink flowers. Climb 12m into the treetops at Redwoods Treewalk in Whakarewarewa Forest. This elevated walkway weaves through In the ancient forest of the Mamaku the giant trees via 23 suspension bridges. From dusk onwards, the Plateau, Rotorua Canopy Tours lights at Redwoods Treewalk has sympathetically built ziplines, swing bridges and tree-top walkways switch on for the enchanting ‘Redwoods Nightlights’, causing into the 1000-year-old forest. the forest to dance with dreamy Not a forest per se, but Rotorua silhouettes. Centennial Park is growing into Check out the new Redwoods one fine woodland. There are Altitude and access 25 junglebarbecue facilities, toilets, picnic themed bridges, you ascend a threetables, a Maple Grove and Peace storey spiralling staircase wrapped Memorial and in spring, the cherry around a giant redwood tree. blossom trees are dressed in

LOVABLE LAKES

ABOVE: Redwood Forest, Rotorua RIGHT: Lake Rotomahana BOTH: © Destination Rotorua

Taupō may have Australasia’s largest lake, but what the Rotorua region lacks in size it makes up for in numbers, with a staggering 18 freshwater lakes, 14 of which are easily accessible. The lakes are of volcanic origin, filling craters, calderas or valleys blocked by lava flows, and many are ringed by forest and farmland with fantastic walking trails. Lake Rotorua is the largest lake in the region, while the smaller Blue and Green lakes are just as impressive.

More mountain biking, please Whakarewarewa Forest © Destination Rotorua

e think Rotorua is one of the world’s premier mountain biking destinations, but if you don’t believe us, believe the industry’s star riders – every March Rotorua hosts the international mountain bike festival, Crankworx. Whakarewarewa Forest is one of the most established mountain bike networks in New Zealand and well regarded for its whopping 180km of trails. Accommodating

everyone, there are Grade 1-5 tracks which all loop around two central points: the Waipa car park and the visitors’ centre at The Redwoods. Short trails make up the core of the circuit and interlink with an outer, more technical section. With a steady supply of shuttles and continual upgrades, this is a mountain biking forest that keeps every rider happy. For a series of constantly evolving trails, you can’t go wrong at Redwood Forest Park. The tracks

cover 130km of terrain and are divvied into several riding areas to suit every skill level. If you’re a fan of extreme downhill riding, Skyline Gravity Park is the world’s first all-season gondola-accessed mountain biking park, complete with an exhilarating 12km downhill course. Need more? The Rainbow Mountain Summit Trail is also a spectacular, albeit challenging, Grade 4 mountain bike loop.

GREAT RIDE • TE ARA AHI – THERMAL BY BIKE

The new Te Pūtake o Tawa (also to be known as Tawa Forest Hub) has been newly built in Whakarewarewa Forest, offering a 40km looped trail, as well as mini loops so you don’t have to complete the entire thing in one go. With toilets, showers, bike hire and food vendors, it’s your onestop spot for fun.

Motu Trails © Neil Robert Hutton Photography

MOTU Trails

GREAT RIDE • MOTU TRAILS

TRAIL INFO BEST FOR: A challenge steeped in reward, no matter what your ability.

ŌPŌTIKI to MATAWAI 1-3 days

121km

Many great things come in threes: musketeers, French hens and the Bee Gees. And if you’re a keen cyclist – the Motu Trails.

eaturing three wildly different rides, this year-round track can be completed as a full 91km loop or as separate sections, but this will depend entirely on your fitness and ability.

The Dunes Trail kick-starts the mission, starting from the Pākōwhai ki Otutaopuku Bridge (Memorial Park) in Ōpōtiki. Considered the easiest section of the three, a softly undulating pathway skims

Pākihi Track, Motu Trails © StudioZag

SEE P 47 FOR A CONNECTING HEARTLAND RIDE 42

the edge of the Pacific Ocean, providing plenty of opportunity for seaside picnics and refreshing dips. Enjoy this leisurely amble before entering the second phase of your journey. The Grade 3 Motu Road is an historic byway that will test your fitness. Diverting away from the coast, the mostly-unsealed road climbs to almost 800m via forest and farmland. Don’t be put off by the mention of road, this spectacularly remote section is seldom used by cars. You’re now on course for the third and most challenging section of the trail: the Pākihi Track. Buckle in for a sensational 20km Grade 4 trail that’s been weaving its way through these parts for over 100 years. Delve into mature forest and bushy backcountry terrain, follow the Pākihi Stream, navigating 25 bridges and, in places, exposed cliff edge. Know when to stop and walk short sections and be aware that bad weather can bring slips and windfalls. TOP TIP – If you’re not inclined to conquer the hardest part, the Pākihi Track, stay on the Motu Road Trail then do the short side trip to spectacular Motu Falls.

1-3 Days 10-91km

TRAIL GRADES: DUNES TRAIL GRADE 2 (EASY) MOTU RD TRAIL GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) PĀKIHI TRACK GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Limited outside of Ōpōtiki, very patchy on the Motu Rd and nonexistent on the Pākihi Track. REFRESHMENTS: Dunes Trail riders will readily find refreshments in Ōpōtiki and a shop midway along the trail. Inland, there’s a shop in Matawai. Motu Rd and Pākihi Track riders should be self-sufficient and carry plenty of water and food. TYPE OF BIKE: Hybrid or touring bikes with knobbly tyres are fine for the Dunes Trail, but a mountain bike is recommended on the rougher Motu and Pākihi trails. E-bikes are welcome, so long as you have good battery capacity on the Motu Rd. You must be able to lift/ carry the e-bike on Pākihi Track. GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

Bay of Plenty

Dunes Trail Tirohanga

Whakatāne ŌPŌTIKI

River

JACKSON ROAD End of Dunes Trail

Waiaua Otara River

ek a

W ai ō Hukutaia Domain

n Ra a ar um k u Ra

Motu Road

Motu Road Trail

Otara Road

Meremere Hill

Takaputahi Road

Pākihi Road Toatoa

Pākihi Road end Boulders Campsite

PāpāmoaHill (Toatoa) Pākihi Stream

Pākihi Track

Whitikau

bridge Te Waiti Hut

Pākihi Hut

PĀKIHI TRACK / MOTU ROAD JUNCTION Motu Road Onukuroa Hill

Waiōeka River

Motu River Motu Motu Falls

LEGEND MAP open section

café/restaurant

one way

toilets

start/finish point

camping

point of interest

shelter

i-SITE Visitor Centre

hut

Motu Falls Road

Motu Road

accommodation

hill/mountain

state highway

bridge

highway section

town

to Ōpōtiki

MATAWAI Gisborne

Rere Falls Trail

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail... Jackson Rd 20km Return

Ōpōtiki 800m 600m 400m

Jackson Rd

Toatoa

DUNES TRAIL

67km

Pākihi Track Junction

Motu Matawai

Motu Rd

MOTU ROAD TRAIL

Ōpōtiki 44km PĀKIHI TRACK

200m 0m

Highlights of the trail • Take a jet-boat tour along the Motu River combining thrills with historic insight. • Take the side trip to Motu Falls. This spectacular display of nature is astounding. • Ōpōtiki’s long sandy beaches are safe for swimming and a little further down the coast, the bays are good for snorkelling. • Ōpōtiki Museum is in an old bus station with

two levels of old town relics and Māori artefacts. • If you packed your rod, the rivers around Ōpōtiki are brimming with rainbow and brown trout. • Hukutaia Domain is 7km out of Ōpōtiki and home to a 2000-year-old pūriri tree known as Taketakerau. You can’t cycle in the domain but it’s a pleasant on-road ride to get there.

Hukutaia Domain, Ōpōtiki © Adobe Stock

GREAT RIDE • MOTU TRAILS

Te Waiti Road

riding the trail DUNES TRAIL, 20KM RETURN

This easy trail is great for riders of all ages and abilities with a mostly wide, smooth surface and a total elevation change of only 100m along its entire length (200m when ridden both ways). It starts at the graceful Pākōwhai ki Otutaopuku suspension bridge in Ōpōtiki’s Memorial Park Reserve. From here it undulates gently for 10km along the sand dunes east of town, with epic ocean and East Cape views and plenty of opportunities for picnicking on empty beaches or going for a dip. Jackson Rd, at the eastern end of the trail, marks the start of the Motu Rd Trail, although riders may wish to turn back at the 9km mark as the final roadside kilometre is largely unremarkable.

MOTU RD TRAIL, 67KM

GREAT RIDE • MOTU TRAILS

The Motu Rd is best suited to fit riders who aren’t afraid of hills. Riding in the direction from Jackson Rd (near the coast) to the settlement of Motu, this route dishes up 1600m of climbing. It can be ridden in the other direction, of course, with the end-point of Matawai already 500m above sea level so there’s more downhill than up. Either way, it’s a pretty big effort that shouldn’t be underestimated. From Jackson Rd, the trail follows a quiet country road, mostly surfaced in gravel, up and over a highpoint of 750m+ above sea level.

Traffic is generally very light but riders should always be on the lookout for cars and the occasional logging truck, especially around corners. Motu Rd formed part of the original coach road between the Eastern Bay of Plenty and Tairāwhiti Gisborne. You are riding through lush farmland and the remote bush country of the Raukumara Ranges. It’s 24km – including a solid 6km climb up Meremere Hill – to the pint-sized settlement of Toatoa. Winding up through magnificent forest for another 14km riders reach the Pākihi Track junction, where the 91km-loop riders leave the Motu Rd. From there the road climbs steadily, with some well-earned views across ridges way back to the coast and Whale Island/Moutohorā, before a satisfyingly long downhill into the pretty Motu Valley. There’s welcoming accommodation here at the Community House as well as The Weka Nest, with scenic Motu Falls a worthy detour 5km away. A further 14km away on a quiet, slightly uphill, sealed road is Matawai, the inland end of this ride, and a popular spot for shuttle drop-offs and pick-ups. Note that the Rere Falls Trail (a 103km Heartland Ride) links Matawai with Tairāwhiti Gisborne via quiet, country roads and highway.

PĀKIHI TRACK, 44KM

Originally a pack track cut in the

Motu Trails shelter © Mead Norton Photography

early 1900s, the Pākihi Track is now a wonderful 20km-long wilderness trail shared by bikers, runners and walkers. The advanced track is strictly mountain bike territory and should only be attempted by experienced riders. Although not particularly technical, caution is advised – there are many dropoffs beside the track, while gravel, rocks and tree debris on the track can escalate the level of difficulty. The upper track also gets slippery after wet weather. For the safety of other users, it’s a one-way track for cyclists – do not ride up the track from the Pākihi Rd. The first 11km section twists and turns through magical forest dominated by tawa, tōtara, rimu and rewarewa, before reaching the Pākihi Hut around the half-way point. This is a great place to stop for lunch before heading onward. The stunning lower section

starts by crossing Pākihi Stream via an impressive 35m suspension bridge, and then follows it all the way to the road end. Along the way keep an eye out for native birds including the kererū (wood pigeon), tūī and fantails. If you are lucky, you may even see a kārearea (New Zealand falcon) or North Island robin. The cheeky North Island weka may also be heard calling out. At the car park, riders can rest a while at the massive picnic table built by trail volunteers from an old bridge. The last leg back to Ōpōtiki involves 9km on gravel road beside the river, followed by 10km on a country road and 4km along the Ōtara stopbank trail back into town. It is highly recommended that you take a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) when cycling the Pākihi Track. PLBs can be hired from Ōpōtiki and Gisborne i-SITEs and from Cycle Gisborne.

Stingrays off the coast of Gisborne © Brook Sabin

Burma Rd is a 12-minute drive from Whakatāne and offers an easy to intermediate bike ride with incredible scenery. Ōhope Beach boasts 11km of sweeping gold-sand beach and the secluded bay of Otarawairere can only be accessed by sea or on foot.

Explore more

Whakatāne is frequently dubbed the Sunshine Capital due to its reputation as one of the sunniest destinations in New Zealand. Make the most of this weather by taking a boat charter, fishing trip or a dolphin-spotting cruise and swim.

Te Koputu a te Whanga Library and Exhibition Centre in Whakatāne is free to visit and packed with ever-changing exhibits and art displays. PYO Berry Farms make Whakatāne extra sweet. Blueberry Corner and Julian’s Berry Farm are open September to March for PYO berries and blueberry ice cream. Warren Cole Walk and Cycleway follows the Whakatāne River. Its name honours Warren Cole, a member of New Zealand’s first rowing gold medal-winning team at the 1968 Olympic Games.

West End in Ōhope is the ideal spot to learn how to surf. It’s naturally sheltered from the wind, has warm water and gentle breaks. Ōhiwa Harbour is shallow and placid, allowing for easy kayaking excursions across its waters. Moutohora Island is whale-shaped from afar. Get closer on board a diving, fishing or sightseeing tour from Whakatāne to see its protected wildlife, including dolphins, penguins, seals, skittering lizards and ancient tuatara. Cultural Encounters It was Tairāwhiti Gisborne where the Māori migratory waka (canoes), Horouta and Tākitimu first landed. Take a guided 4WD or hiking tour to see the Māori carvings at Mt Hikurangi,

Nature Cycle the trail connecting Gisborne and Wainui Beach or enjoy the peace at Hackfalls Arboretum, a mecca of rare trees and shrubs. Rustle up a picnic and take it to Eastwoodhill Arboretum where you’ll find the largest collection of northern hemisphere trees this side of the equator. Sunrise Gisborne is the first place on Earth to see a new day. Spend the night in town and watch the sun rise over its eastern beaches. Rere Rockslide Just 30 minutes inland from Gisborne, slide down Rere rockslide. Polished into a smooth, 60m sliver of rock, this all-natural slide will induce screams and shrieks, before resulting in a satisfying splosh. Stingrays Snorkel or wade with wild stingrays on an ecology tour in Tatapouri, Gisborne. Gisborne Railbike Adventure Jump back on the saddle for a tandem-style ride along disused railway lines, using two pushbikes fused together.

GREAT RIDE • MOTU TRAILS

If you have a little extra time up your sleeve, dabble in these regional mustdo’s and venture into Eastland.

Moxi Café in Ōhope is built out of shipping containers, making a delightfully quirky brunch stop.

or admire the ornate interior of St Mary’s Church in Tikitiki, complete with Māori stained-glass windows.

More mountain biking, please

nepū Mountain Bike Park is a 30-minute drive from Whakatāne and offers four main trails. Each one offers gentle rolling terrain that will suit most riders, while the BMX-style jumps will entertain those practicing tricks. More mountain bike trails exist in Eastland, close to Gisborne. At Millmore Forest there are 15km of trails and forest road, maintained by Gisborne MTB Club. The easy trails make it a family-friendly experience, while the advanced areas offer good challenges. Whataupoko Mountain Bike Park is handy to Gisborne town centre, with 7km of walking and mountain bike trails right on the doorstep.

Ōhope Beach 6km E of Whakatāne

GREAT RIDE • MOTU TRAILS

Onepū Mountain Bike Park © Whakatāne District Council

Ōpōtiki

Tirohanga Beach Holiday Park

45km E of Whakatāne on SH 2

Eastland Pacific Motor Lodge

SH 35, Tirohanga Beach, Opotiki Ph/Fax: +64 7 315 7942 Email: tmcamp@xtra.co.nz

OPOTIKI • NEW ZEALAND

• • • • • • • •

Tirohanga Beach Holiday Park: the right place to start your Motu Trail Adventure. We have a variety of accommodation & are situated on the Dune Trail to assist you in making this ride something to remember. Don’t rush home; enjoy our beautiful beach & see what Opotiki has to offer. One of the trail’s OFFICIAL PARTNERS.

WELCOME 10 units with spa baths, 4 x 2-brm units, 6 x 1-brm, 8 studio units Wheelchair access units Air-con/heat pumps in all units Sky TV Guest Select Guest laundry Free Wireless internet Warm welcome & friendly service Tariff: Studio $150, 1-brm $170, 2-brm $190

Cnr Bridge & St John Sts, Opotiki Ph: 07 315 5524 Email: eastlandopotiki@xtra.co.nz www.eastlandpacific.co.nz Reservations: 0800 103 003 Resident Hosts: Lyn & Gary Savage

Opotiki Holiday Park

Tariff: from $18-$140. 2 persons $50-$140. Sites from $20. Seasonal rates apply www.tirohangabeachmotorcamp.co.nz

Gisborne

after Colonial Secretary William Gisborne • 215km NE of Napier on SH 2 39 Potts Ave, Opotiki Phone: +64 7 315 6050 Email: opotiki.holidays @xtra.co.nz

Looking for a

CYCLING ADVENTURE

on the Motu Trails, Gisborne?

Accommodation: Relax in a rural setting only 200m walk to Opotiki town centre. Start of the Motu Trail on our doorstep, or we can arrange shuttle services. Secure lock-up for bikes and group rates available. Choice of self-contained units, kitchen cabins, tent sites & motel units.

Features: Communal kitchen, metered showers, laundry, TV lounge, Freeview TV, Zenbu WiFi, swimming pool, playground and dump station. Tariff: 2 persons $50-$120, sites from $20, seasonal rates may apply. Visa, Mastercard, EFTPOS.

www.opotikiholidaypark.co.nz

Stay a minimum 2 nights and receive a 10% discount

Relax in style on the water's edge in the heart of Gisborne.

Book online at www.heritagehotels.co.nz and use the promo code CYCLE2x10

2 Reads Quay, Gisborne

Subject to availability, valid until 31/10/22

Book now: heritagehotels.co.nz/NZCycleTrail or 06 869 1000

HHM629PHG 10/20

Base yourself at Heritage Collection Portside Hotel, Gisborne.

MATAWAI to GISBORNE

RERE FALLS Trail

1-3 days

ou can bump along one of New Zealand’s most remote regions year-round and in either direction, but the Matawai to Gisborne route enjoys longer stretches of descents, including the 4km Wharekopae Hill, whereas the opposite direction requires some serious effort. Either way, the trail presents hillside, fertile flats and high-country farmland, connected via gravel and sealed roads.

As a 103km Grade 3 ride, experienced cyclists often like to complete this journey in one day, while others break it down into several. The trail is known for swimming spots which are heavensent when you’ve worked up a sweat. Rere Rockslide is such a place: a 60m natural slide formed from polished rock. The embankments are perfect for leisurely picnics and nearby Rere Falls spills off a wide ledge into

a welcoming lagoon. For shady respite, Eastwoodhill Arboretum is a 135ha labyrinth of cool woodland, with both flat walkways and those that climb steeply to gain farstretching views.

The Tairāwhiti river plains are home to Gisborne’s finest wineries, and the city, where this ride concludes, is just 7km further. Stunning eastern beaches are sure to warrant a celebratory dip in the sea.

Cycling by Rere Falls © Mead Norton Photography

HEARTLAND RIDE • RERE FALLS TRAIL

Switching between wide open roads and countryside to natural landmarks that require closer inspection, time spent off the bike is just as rewarding as time spent on it.

103km

riding the trail The trail can be ridden in either direction – though you’ll get much more downhill by starting from the historic village of Matawai (linking to the Motu Trails) and ending your ride in Gisborne.

HEARTLAND RIDE • RERE FALLS TRAIL

From Matawai, you have 7km riding on SH 2 before turning off onto a quiet, rolling country road, peaking at an altitude of 600m. After another 7km, the road becomes gravel for the next 27km and features some solid climbs. The spectacular scenery is a mix of high-country farms, forested reserves and peaks. The sealed road resumes soon before you reach Rere Rockslide and Rere Falls. A little further, Eastwoodhill, the National Arboretum of New Zealand, has a stunning display of exotic and native trees. Walking tracks offer an opportunity to see many rare and unique species; accommodation is available. The trail carries on down to the fertile Tairāwhiti Plains, home to some of Gisborne’s finest wineries. From there it’s easy going on flat roads to central Gisborne and stunning beaches. Follow the Pacific Coast south to reach Hawke’s Bay and the Hawke’s Bay Trails. For more information, check out: motutrails.co.nz

Off the saddle

he Rere Falls Trail starts (or ends) at the historic village of Matawai – a great place to stock up on any supplies you may need for your journey. As you wind your way along this trail through wild landscapes, stunning views and past the Rere Rockslide, Rere Falls and the Eastwoodhill Arboretum, you enter one of New Zealand’s biggest grape-growing regions, mostly dedicated to producing the acclaimed chardonnay. Gisborne, however, is by no means a onegrape wonder and also produces other quality white varieties such as gewürztraminer, viognier and pinot gris. Red grapes of note include merlot and malbec. Gisborne is a prosperous and sunny centre with a port, unspoilt

beaches, a Mediterranean-style climate and city sophistication. Culture is strong and proud in this town where the Māori language is widely spoken and the local polytechnic has the country’s leading contemporary Māori art course. Tairāwhiti Museum & Art Gallery houses a historic collection and showcases art by local, national and international artists. The annual Rhythm & Vines three-day New Year festival injects an entirely different type of culture into the city. Take a tasting-tour of the wineries and complete the day by sampling local seafood at a waterfront restaurant. Some of the best surf beaches in the country surround Gisborne, in particular Wainui Beach, which has consistent top-quality waves.

Rere Falls • TOP: Gisborne. BOTH: © Adobe Stock

Rere Rockslide © Tairāwhiti Gisborne

Highlights of the trail • To speed down the 60m Rere Rockslide you’re going to need a bodyboard or inflatable. Fortunately, there’s usually a skip brimming with discarded ones. • Rere Falls are just 500m from Rere Rockslide and year-round spectacular. • At Eastwoodhill Arboretum there are guided walks, jeep tours and overnight

accommodation. Exit via the homestead for high tea with home-made scones. • Tūranganui-a-Kiwa/Poverty Bay Flats, also known as the Gisborne Plains, is where many vineyards are leading producers of chardonnay, syrah and rose. • Wine taste in the Waipaoa River Valley northwest of Gisborne.

COOK’S FIRST LANDFALL The Cook Landing Site National Historic Reserve on Kaitī Beach Rd in Gisborne marks the place where James Cook first set foot on New Zealand soil. His statue can be found at the end of Waikanae Park and on Kaitī Hill, which is well worth the climb for the incredible views alone.

THE TIMBER Trail

BEST FOR: Wilderness adventures into one of the world’s finest, most untouched rainforests.

PUREORA to ŌNGARUE 2 days

85km

Timbeeeeeeer! The cry that once resonated through Pureora Forest came to a welcome end in the 70s when activists put a stop to forest felling. Within years, nature reclaimed the trees.

efore 2013, when the Timber Trail officially debuted, Pureora Forest was little-known, but fast-forward nine years and this remote track, deep in the forested heart of the North Island, now offers total escapism for riders of every ilk.

The track snakes through spirited soils; a land where 800-year-old rimu and kahikatea trees tower 60m above the floor, and where one of the world’s rarest, last remaining podocarp forests remains intact. The only indication of human

GREAT RIDE • THE TIMBER TRAIL

SEE P 59 FOR A CONNECTING HEARTLAND RIDE

existence are 43 suspension bridges crossing streams and gorges. The most exhilarating being the 141m-long Maramataha suspension bridge which drapes itself over the treetops like a spider’s web. Other highlights include overnight stays at charming Blackfern Lodge, complete with its whio (blue duck) recovery programme, or the more intrepid Piropiro Flats’ campsite. Close to the middle of the track and just after the Maramataha Bridge, you’ll strike a 3km uphill assault which is equal parts fatiguing and fulfilling, and is fortunately followed by a long downhill stretch on a former tramway. TOP TIP – The trail passes through subalpine environment with a high point of 971m; take warm clothes and wet weather gear whatever the forecast.

ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAILS TIMBER TRAIL CONNECTION: 24km/2 hours – Quiet back roads allow riders to bridge the gap between the southern end of the Timber Trail and the main service town of Taumarunui, without a shuttle. CENTRE OF THE NORTH ISLAND: 50km/1 day – Linking the Waikato River Trails to the Timber Trail. Take the small detour to a monolith that marks the geographic centre of the North Island. ABOVE & TOP: © The Timber Trail

to Te Kūiti

MAP LEGEND

PUREORA Link Road old bulldozer

Māniaiti/Benneydale

open section

walking track

optional route walking track train ride

point of interest bridge

Blackfern Lodge

ive

ru nga

Str

Ōngarue Stream Road

hill/mountain

Mt Pureora 1165m

a ok

start/finish point

a tae

Harrisons Creek

café/restaurant

camping

PIROPIRO

car park

Ōngarue-Waimiha Road accommodation

Maramataha Bridge

Mystery Creek Triangle

state highway

1952 tramway terminus No. 10 Camp

to Te Kūiti

ŌNGARUE

to Taumarunui

Timber Trail Lodge Camp Epic

shelter

Bennett Road Car Park

Ra ng e

GREAT RIDE • THE TIMBER TRAIL

toilets

a ro ga n u uh Ha

Mangatukutuku No. 11 Camp Bridge Ōngarue Spiral Ngakonui-Ōngarue Road

riding the trail Pureora 1000m 800m 600m

First Shelter

8.5km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail... Ōngarue

Piropiro 31.5km

45km

400m 200m 0m

PUREORA TO PIROPIRO, 40KM The trail starts at the Department of Conservation campsite and car park, well signposted from SH 30. It winds its way through the bird-filled, virgin forest of Pikiariki Ecological Area. Not far from the start, a short detour leads to a 1920s Caterpillar crawler tractor, long-since abandoned in the bush and now preserved as a rather peculiar memorial to the area’s logging past. After passing through an open area of regenerating native and exotic trees, it’s a gradual climb up the flanks of Mt Pureora into the ethereal Cloud Forest with its verdant moss, gnarled trees and wafting mist. A ‘whoop!’ or two is well deserved at the trail’s highpoint, 971m above sea level. It’s predominantly downhill for the rest of the day as the trail winds down the southern side of Mt Pureora and across the western flanks of the

Hauhungaroa Ranges. There is the occasional lookout on the descent. Around the 22km mark is the first of the trail’s amazing suspension bridges, the 115m one over Bog Inn Creek. This is quickly followed by another biggie, the 109m-long span over Orauwaka Stream. The trail continues downhill to Piropiro Flats where there’s road/shuttle access and accommodation – a DOC campsite, Camp Epic, the Timber Trail Lodge, and epic Black Fern Lodge a few kilometres away. In the summer months, Piropiro has a particularly special atmosphere as a stream of bikers, walkers and hunters bring this usually quiet area to life.

PIROPIRO TO ŌNGARUE, 45KM The trail heads off on a logging road before re-entering native forest on a flowing section of gently climbing

uphill singletrack. Around 5km in (at the trail’s 44km mark), the Maramataha Suspension Bridge swings into view. At 141m long and 53m high it’s not only an icon of the entire Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails, but also a thrilling experience with its wobbly crossing over a tumbling gorge. The bridge signals the start of the last major climb – the steady ascent to Ōngarue Tramway terminus, the final station of the original Ellis and Burnand Tramway. From here the trail follows the old tramway in a generally downhill direction, with the occasional short uphill. In places, the tramway cuts through sheer rock faces shrouded in thick native bush, seldom reached by the sun’s rays. Scattered along the way you’ll see remnants of the area’s logging past, and cross more bridges including the handsome 89m-long Mangatukutuku Suspension Bridge – a great spot for a

picnic. Around 10km from the end is the Ōngarue Spiral. The finer points of this engineering marvel are explained in the interpretation panel alongside, but suffice to say that it’s pretty loopy with the bonus of a spooky old tunnel. It is also truly unique, being the only bikeable railway spiral in the world. The trail continues to Ōngarue, mostly downhill except for a couple of short pinches along the final section through felled forestry blocks and farmland. At around the 82km mark you will pass Bennetts Rd car park where you can be collected by pre-arranged shuttle. Fit riders can cycle an extra 26km to Taumarunui via the Ōngarue Back Rd, the undulating and farmy Timber Trail Connection Heartland Ride that forms part of the world-famous Tour Aotearoa. This is a pleasant and possibly essential option for those who haven’t arranged shuttle collection back to town.

Come and discover what everyone is raving about! GREAT RIDE • THE TIMBER TRAIL

Book with official Timber Trail Partners for great service.

OFFICIAL PARTNERS

Plan your adventure with our official partners. Blackfern Lodge

Timber Trail Farmstay

Epic Cycle Adventures

Timber Trail Lodge

Great Rides App

Timber Trail Shuttle & Bike Hire

Pureora Cabins

Twin Rivers

timbertrail.nz

Itinerary enhancers The Timber Trail is on the doorstep to many great places.

WAITOMO IS LIT Waitomo Glowworm Caves host the biggest concentration of glowworms in the country. How you see them depends on your disposition. Jump on a guided boat tour or try rock climbing through the caverns; abseiling, ziplining or tubing in pitch-black water. There’s also the small but astonishing Aranui cave, with its mass of white, pink and brown stalactites, as well as Ruakuri cave, a former sacred burial ground.

SHIMMY INTO WHANGANUI NATIONAL PARK GREAT RIDE • THE TIMBER TRAIL

Home to The Whanganui River Journey, a New Zealand Great Walk which involves little walking and instead, multiple days of kayaking down the Whanganui River. Also here is the Mountains to Sea Cycle Trail which will lead you to the handsome Bridge to Nowhere.

MAKE TIME FOR TE KŪITI Proud of their sheep shearing heritage, there’s a giant 7.5-ton shearing statue at the town’s entrance. Visitors should also see the Tatsuno Japanese Garden with

Waitomo Caves 72km S of Hamilton

FREEPHONE RESERVATION 0800 877 8130

CARMEL FARMSTAYS & TOURS

Wa cow tch th s mi bein e lke g d

its Azumaya tea house and dazzling array of plants.

GET MORE IN TAUPŌ Start by visiting the 10m-high Mine Bay Māori Rock Carvings by boat tour or kayak. The rapids at Huka Falls are deafening, the geothermal energy at Craters of the Moon is immense and the highest water touching bungy in the country is here; why else would they dub Taupō the Adrenalin Capital of the North Island?

TAKE ME TO TARANAKI There are few places where cone-shaped Mt Taranaki isn’t seen or felt. Located in Egmont National Park, hikes criss-cross the landscape or climb to its summit. At sea level, Surf Highway 45 is a 105km stretch of road between New Plymouth and Hāwera divided only by surfy beach towns. Taranaki is also home to 17 gardens of national or regional significance, New Plymouth’s contemporary art gallery, the Len Lye Centre, and the Forgotten World Highway: our oldest heritage trail.

Highlights of the trail • Camp Epic is a glamping ground in Piropiro just off the main track and where total wilderness meets soothing hot showers. Other accommodation along the way include Timber Trail Lodge and Blackfern Lodge. • Created from old logging tracks, information panels detail the trail’s history. • There are 35 bridges including eight suspension bridges. The daddy being Maramataha

Suspension Bridge: 141m long and 53m high. • The Ōngarue system was built to help timber trams ascend and descend the terrain. Consisting of a lower bridge, a curved tunnel, a circle of track and overbridge, it’s now great for bikes. • Podocarp trees such as rimu, kahikatea and tōtara are numerous and because predators are minimal, birdlife flourishes.

Hāwera

71km SE of New Plymouth on SH 3 • Delicious evening meal available $45 • LUXURY rural accommodation on large sheep and cattle station (popular with our guests) • Join in the mustering (popular with guests) • On main highway (state Highway 3) 2 km to Piopio Town • Short distance to WAITOMO activities • CLOSE TO TIMBER TRAIL • 18-hole golf course adjacent to property WAITOMO To Otorohanga • Enjoy the unique lifestyle of a large rural CAVES HONGATIKI dairy farm and view milkings in our C ARM EL modern rotary shed Farmstays & Tours TE KUITI Golf Course • Hosts: Leo & Barbara Anselmi To R otoru a&T PUKERIMA RD aupo • Tariff: $100-$150 PIOPIO To New Plymouth To Taumarunui (includes continental breakfast)

Waitomo District, SH 3, South of Te Kuiti P/F: +64 7 877 8130 • E: carmelfarms@xtra

www.carmelfarms.co.nz

• Opening hours on website • Cafe on site

With nine tourism awards to its credit, Tawhiti is now considered one of New Zealand’s most innovative historical presentations. Its lifesize figures, smaller scale dioramas and vast collection of artifacts is simply like no other. 401 Ohangai Rd, Hawera. Phone: +64 6 278 6837 TAWHITI MUSEUM email: info@tawhitimuseum.co.nz Museum website: www.tawhitimuseum.co.nz Traders & Whalers website: www.tradersandwhalers.co.nz

GREAT LAKE Epic lake views © Cam McKenzie

BEST FOR: Epic lake views – towering volcanic cliffs, lush native bush, deep gorges, sparking waterfalls.

WAIHAHA to WHAKAIPO BAY 1-3 days

84km

If the idea of riding the rim of a super volcano isn’t enough, then perhaps the promise of volcanic gorges, waterfalls and beautiful beaches will get you on the saddle. With switchbacks and speedy descents, the Great Lake Trails is not only scenic, it’s seriously good fun.

Highlights of the trail • Kawakawa Bay is small, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in aesthetics. • Sleepy Kinloch is a 20-minute drive from Taupō township with good cafés and a sandy bay. Three of the four trail sections are accessed from here, so it makes a good base. • Kinloch Club is an awardwinning golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus. • The large rocky overhang at

Echo Rock looms over the trail like a frozen stone waterfall. • Uphill slogs provide elevated views of Lake Taupō and the mountain peaks in Tongariro National Park. • In the Waihaha section, discover a secret waterfall hidden deep in the Waihaha Valley and some secluded swimming spots. • Come summer, you’ll want to swim in the pretty bays lapped by aqua-blue water.

s the result of one of the biggest volcanic eruptions in history, Lake Taupō’s enormous crater is lined with pumice which has created free-draining soils meaning all-season terrain and year-round riding. This Grade 3 trail straddles the north-western corner of Lake Taupō and is split into three sections comprising the Waihaha, Kawakawa and Whakaipo sections. Each section is easily accessible from the lively hub of Kinloch and can be ridden in various combinations, or tackled all-in-one over the course of one to three days. Those taking on the entire stretch tend to work from the west to the east. Depending on your chosen route, shuttles may be required. There is now a choice of water taxis to transport cyclists to four points along the trail with a water taxi service taking trail users back to Kinloch or Taupō town! Built for mountain bikers by mountain bikers, the trail is heaven for fans of single-trail riding, while the epic view over the lake and distant volcanoes offer a welcomed distraction. Expect long downhills as well as few challenging climbs, plenty of switchbacks and gorgeous little bays beckoning you in for dips.

More mountain biking, please The 42 Traverse is known as the greatest mountain bike ride in the North Island, while the Rotary Ride traces the Waikato River for 6km all the way to Huka Falls. The Craters Mountain Bike Park is located on the outskirts of Taupō in Wairākei Forest and also connects to the Rotary Ride. Families tend to like the Huka Falls to Aratiatia Dam Trail.

GREAT RIDE • GREAT LAKE TRAILS

Trails

TOP TIP – Riding the Waihaha section then taking a water taxi to Kawakawa Bay, Kinloch or Taupo is one of the best days out ever. All water taxis must be prebooked.

GREAT RIDE • GREAT LAKE TRAILS WAIHAHA SECTION The start of the Waihaha Section is a 40min drive from Kinloch at the Waihaha River car park off SH 32. The trail ends at the remote Waihora Bay, requiring a water taxi to rejoin the Great Lake Trails at Kawakawa Bay or return to Kinloch or Taupō town. If you have your own transport, the best way to tackle this section is to get a shuttle from Kinloch or Taupō town to drop you off at the trail start; the water taxi will then drop you off back at your car. Riders without transport should ask a local bike tour operator to sort their shuttle and the boat. Whatever you do, don’t let the logistics deter you – this is considered by many riders to be the best day out on the trails. Seriously fit and eager riders can make the logistics easier by self-driving and riding the trail as a 60km return trip. Another option is to cut the ride short after 13km by cycling up a farm trail (Waihaha Rd) back to Western Bays Rd. The first half of this ride follows the Waihaha River high above a pretty gorge cloaked in native bush. Rocky outcrops command grand views over the volcanic landscape, with the spectacular Tīeke Falls a major highlight. The second half of the ride is equally scenic as it meanders around the lake edge. Highlights include

rocky ravines, cliff-top lookouts across the lake to the volcanoes of Tongariro National Park, the mysterious Echo Rock, and the trail’s descent alongside Kōtukutuku Stream with its gushes and waterfalls. The trail ends at Kōtukutuku Landing in tranquil Waihora Bay where you can go for a dip while you wait for your boat. Note that a popular option from here is to get dropped off by the boat at Kawakawa Bay, for the lovely 10km ride through to Kinloch.

KAWAKAWA The Kawakawa sections of the Great lake Trails can be started at Kinloch or the Ōrākau car park off Whangamata Rd, a 20min drive from Kinloch. Self-drivers are advised to park at Kinloch and get dropped off. The Ōrākau Trail from Whangamatā Road to Kawakawa Bay also makes a nice short ride, suitable for family groups and inexperienced riders. A gentle down hill ride that ends in a fun water taxi trip back to Kinloch. From the car park, the trail winds virtually downhill all the way to the lake on flowing single trail, passing through wetlands and regenerating forest and over boardwalk and ravines. Beautiful Kawakawa Bay marks the halfway point and is a great place to stop for a snack and a dip in the lake’s clear waters. There’s also a shelter and campsite here,

which makes bikepacking an option for riders prepared to carry their tents and equipment.

9.5km on the Headland Loop to take it to the next level.

It’s a 3km climb via switchbacks to get out of the bay. Then it’s a long, flowing descent towards Kinloch with plenty of eye-popping views across the lake to the western bays.

The popular Whakaipo Section can be ridden in either direction but – despite its name – is most commonly started in Kinloch. From there the options are either to ride to Whakaipo Bay (13km) and return to Kinloch via water taxi or shuttle (Whakaipo Bay has a basic DOC campground for self-contained campers only and is accessible by road); ride as far as the top of the headland and circuit the popular Headland Loop (20km in all); or ride to Whakaipo Bay and back (26km) with the option of adding in the loop (9.5km). From the Kinloch marina, the trail climbs steadily through native bush onto the headland to meet the aptly named Headland Loop. This 9.5km trail is optional but, with stunning views out to Tongariro National Park and the Kaimanawa Ranges, it would be a shame to miss it! Where the Headland Loop trail rejoins the main trail it’s a fast and flowing descent to pretty Whakaipo Bay, popular with swimmers, picnickers and boaties. Return the same way or await your water taxi. Once again, this ride sees you finish in Kinloch where you can enjoy an ice cream or a meal, and watch the comings and goings in the marina.

The Otaketake section opened late in 2019, this brilliant link can be ridden one way, return, or combined with the K2K Trail for a fabulous 32km loop. To reach the start of the Otaketake Trail from Kinloch, head west along the K2K for 3km where the new trail leaves the lakeshore to wind gently up through the Otaketake Stream Valley. It’s a fun 10km, featuring native bush, delightful birdlife, and spectacular viewpoints around the Lake Taupō area. After emerging from the bush, it’s another 2km of riding beside a country road to reach the Ōrākau car park on Whangamata Rd. You can start riding from here, rather than Kinloch, of course. The 32km loop combines the Otaketake with K2K, with anti-clockwise riding popular for providing the best ‘reveals’ around the lake edge. It’s also worth noting that combining these trail sections with Whakaipo Section gives the longest contagious ride on the Great Lake Trails – 46km of awesome riding with an optional

WHAKAIPO

MOUNTAINS TO SEA Trails

Bridge to Nowhere, Mountains to Sea Trails © Mountains to Sea Trails

GREAT RIDE • MOUNTAINS TO SEA TRAILS

SEE P 59 FOR A CONNECTING HEARTLAND RIDE

BEST FOR: Enjoying the connected pathways that navigate riders from Tūroa to Whanganui, coordinating your journey to suit your time and abilities.

TŪROA, OHAKUNE to WHANGANUI 1-6 days

231km

(32km river)

Start your Mountains to Sea – Ngā Ara Tūhono adventure at Tūroa skifield. Local tour operators will deposit you 1700m above sea level on the lofty slopes of Mt Ruapehu. Relish the distant views of Mt Taranaki before releasing the brakes for an exhilarating descent back to Ohakune.

t’s from here the actual leg work begins. Covering 231km, the trail is split into six segments, parts of which require a boat ride to get across the almighty Whanganui River. The trail is typically completed in four to six days but if you’re hard-core, two to three days is not

unheard of. You can also enjoy each section as a separate one-day excursion. There are eerie yet enticing tunnels and long-forgotten viaducts, including the impressive 284m-long Hapuawhenua railway viaduct.

Gain an insight into post-war life all along the Mangapurua Track, culminating in the fascinating Bridge to Nowhere. This handsome feature marks the route’s last stamp of civilisation before all hopes of settlement were abandoned. The nearby Mangapurua Landing is your launch pad to reach Pipiriki by jet boat. Alternatively, swap the pedals for paddles and navigate this stretch of the Whanganui River by canoe; your bikes travel ahead by shuttle. Once reunited with your wheels, the River Rd leads all the way to Whanganui City, via artist studios, flour mills and convents. Clapping eyes on the Tasman Sea signifies the end of your journey, but the final hurrah should include watching the sunset at North Mole.

TOP TIP – An alternative connection is to ride from National Park up the short hill to Fishers Track which links Kaitieke and Whakahoro via an interesting gravel ride up Oio Rd. The trail then heads into Whanganui National Park along the Grade 4 Kaiwhakauka single track before rejoining the Mangapurua Track at the Pou, where you can choose to cycle towards the Bridge to Nowhere or back through the Ruatiti Valley.

the views. It’s downhill virtually all the way from the trig, the trail wending through the remote and rather beautiful Mangapurua Valley in which a series of old farm sites are signposted. You will pass remains of original settlements and the iconic Bridge to Nowhere. From the bridge, it’s only 3km to the Mangapurua Landing, where you will start your jet boat/kayak journey down the Whanganui River. This section of the trail is seasonal and maybe weather affected so do check mountainstosea.nz/trailstatus for updates.

MANGAPURUA LANDING TO PIPIRIKI, 32KM RIVER RIDE

GREAT RIDE • MOUNTAINS TO SEA TRAILS

There are two ways of getting to Pipiriki, neither of which is on a bike! The easiest and most common is to be collected by the prebooked jet boat for the invigorating 32km buzz down the river (bikes stowed on board).

WHANGANUI RIVER RD, 67KM

Quiet rural riding through an interesting slice of New Zealand history, stopping at Jerusalem to explore or stay at the convent, explore the historic Kawana Flourmill or a bite to eat and a chat at the Matahiwi Gallery. Marae and other settlements make this a delightful section of riding.The river road ends with the fairly hefty climb over Aramoana Hill and a well-deserved 3km swoop down to the junction of SH 4. It’s another 3km again to Upokongaro village.

UPOKONGARO TO TASMAN SEA, 19KM

From Upokongaro, the trail follows SH 4 for a short distance then crosses the new Upokongaro bridge. It then follows the new cycle trail by the river into the city. The riverside boardwalk detours into backstreets before returning to trace the river to the Tasman Sea. Follow your nose, or keep an eye out for the cycle trail signage to keep on track. The trail ends at North Mole, a moody, driftwood-strewn beach on the northern side of the Whanganui River breakwater. Head back to the city along the same route or explore the bohemian suburb of Castlecliff with its café and galleries. A day or so in Whanganui is a great way to bookend your journey. Please see mountainstosea.nz for official trail status updates.

OHAKUNE MOUNTAIN RD, 16KM

From Ohakune town, local shuttles ferry you up to Tūroa skifield, 1700m above sea level on the slopes of Mt Ruapehu. It’s an exhilarating 1000m descent back to Ohakune along 17km of sealed road.

OHAKUNE OLD COACH RD, 15KM

One of New Zealand’s best half-day rides, following an historic byway. From the Ohakune Rail Station, the first few kilometres follow Old Station Rd and Marshalls Rd before reaching the trailhead where a series of info panels retell the Coach Rd’s fascinating story.

Wind up along the old cobbled road into Tongariro National Park passing through ancient forest with giant rimu and tōtara, spiky mountain cabbage trees, ferns and feathery toe-toe. A highlight is the beautifully restored 284m Hapuawhenua railway viaduct. The trail then reaches Taonui Viaduct, smaller and in a state of rusty repair. The trail emerges from a patch of forest into a pretty meadow near the trail’s end at Horopito.

RUATITI RD & MIDDLE RD, 45KM

Ruatiti Rd and Middle Rd link the Ohakune Old Coach Rd section with the start of the Mangapurua Track. Overall, the ride is downhill, losing around 400m

in elevation over 45km. However, some steep climbs make it best suited to fit cyclists. From Horopito, follow the trail official signage for 30km along Middle Rd and up Ruatiti Rd to the Ruatiti Domain (camping and toilets) along the meandering Manganui o te Ao River. The gravel road climbs along the valley for the final 15km to the start of the Mangapurua Track.

MANGAPURUA TRACK, 36KM

From the trailhead at the end of Ruatiti Rd, the trail climbs through farmland and regenerating native bush to the junction with the Kaiwhakauka Track. It’s a little more climbing to reach Mangapurua Trig, a great spot to stop and take in

ALTERNATIVE START: NATIONAL PARK VILLAGE TO MANGAPURUA TRIG, 68KM From National Park and Ride follow Fishers Track (Grade 2) down through bush into the Retaruke Valley and along gravel roads to the War Memorial Monument at the junction of Upper Retaruke and Oio Rd. Continue along Oio Rd to Whakahoro (Blue Duck Station) and the Kaiwhakauka Track (Grade 4). Travel through farmland before joining the official trail at Mangapurua Track. This route is slightly shorter but does include a Grade 4 section.

Cycle a journey of adventures from Tūroa, via the Whanganui River to the Tasman Sea. GREAT RIDE • MOUNTAINS TO SEA TRAILS

OFFICIAL PARTNERS Plan your adventure with our official partners. Blue Duck Station

Mid West Helicopters

TCB

Tongariro Suites

Bridge to Nowhere Lodge Adventures

Mountain Heights

The Flying Fox

Velo Ronnys

My Kiwi Adventure

The Old Convent – Jerusalem

Whanganui Mail & Tours

Dempsey's

Plateau Lodge

Great Rides App

Ruatiti Station Lodge

Kune Shuttles

@M2SNZ

The Park Hotel

Whanganui River Adventures

The River Lodge

Whanganui Top 10

mountainstosea.nz 57

Highlights of the trail

GREAT RIDE • MOUNTAINS TO SEA TRAILS

• Te Awa Tupua – Whanganui River is a special place where the people have always been connected to the heartbeat of the river. Flowing from Ōngarue in the north to the Tasman Sea, this 290km river is the second longest in the North Island, after the Waikato. Row a canoe, book a jet boat or skirt the embankment by bike. • Explore two of New Zealand’s famed national parks: Tongariro, a volcanic wonderland, and Whanganui National Park, home to wild native bush and an even wilder river. • During your descent of Mt Ruapehu, there are several walking tracks that lead to jawdropping waterfalls, including the highest one in Tongariro National Park – Waitonga Falls. • The Bridge to Nowhere is 38m high and enveloped by verdant bush. There’s a picnic bench, history boards and enormous eels skulking in the water below. • The 284m-long Hapuawhenua railway viaduct is 45m high and skims the treetops.

• On the way to the Bridge to Nowhere, Battleship Bluff arises from the Earth, so called because it resembles the enormous prow of a battleship. • In the tiny settlement of Jerusalem/ Hiruhārama a nunnery was established in 1892 by the church. You can stay overnight at the convent, but booking in advance is a must. • Visit the reconstructed colonial cottage and museum at Kawana Flour Mill. Built in 1854 and since restored, the mill boasts its original waterwheel and grinding stones. • Salvaged from the bottom of the Whanganui River, the restored paddle steamer Waimaire provides leisurely river cruises from Whanganui city. • Fishers Track is a bonus 27km, Grade 3 course through Tongariro National Park. It’s not an easy 2-3 hours, but it does reward the bold with beauty. Kaiwhakauka Track is for the true masochist. This 16km track is two to four hours of Grade 4 pain with narrow, technical tracks.

ABOVE: Paddle steamer Waimaire © Adobe Stock TOP: Koriniti Marae, just above Whanganui River BELOW: Cycling through Whanganui . BOTH: © Mountains to Sea Trails

Whanganui City rests on the banks of its namesake river. The famed Durie Hill Elevator is burrowed 213m into hillside and you can take the antique elevator 65.8m to the summit. At the top there are views spanning as far as Mt Taranaki and Mt Ruapehu. Afterwards, catch a short ride on Mable, a restored tram, visit The Sarjeant Gallery or make your own paperweight at New Zealand Glassworks.

ADD-ON HEARTLAND RIDES Mountains to Sea Connection: 45km/3–4 hours A pleasant jaunt across volcanic plateau, this quiet route passes a couple of scenic reserves. Ohakune–Taihape Trail (OTT): 77km/5–7 hours Starting at Ohakune Junction, this is the safest route for cyclists between Ohakune and Taihape.

Whanganui National Park

Ohakune

80km N of Whanganui

36km S of National Park

Jet Boat Tours | The Lodge | Canoeing | Mountain Biking | Tramping

Ohakune TOP 10 Holiday Park

A beautiful bush setting with the mountain stream flowing freely along the Park offering a truly tranquil camping experience.

0800 825 825 5 Moore Street, Ohakune top10.co.nz

Motels | Units | Cabins | Sites BBQ Area • Playground • WiFi • Spa Bath • Spa Pool • Games room • Close to the Ohakune Old Coach Rd & Mountains to the Sea cycle trails

Freephone 0800 480 308 or 06 385 4622 Bookings are essential | Tours depart from Pipiriki | info@bridgetonowhere.co.nz | www.bridgetonowhere.co.nz

Cycle Route

TOP TIP – This trail provides access to two Central North Island Great Rides, the Timber Trail and Mountains to Sea, both accessible via other Heartland Rides, the Timber Trail Connection and MTS Connection.

BEST FOR: A traditional Kiwi way of life that has remained undisturbed for centuries.

TAUMARUNUI to NEW PLYMOUTH 2-3 days

180km

With a name as intriguing as the Forgotten World, how could you not be interested? Discover a pocket of Aotearoa that is little influenced by outside distractions and where remoteness is bathed in pristineness. MORE MOUNTAIN BIKING, PLEASE! • Cycle the mountain bike track along the Old Whangamomona Rd to the Bridge to Somewhere (sister bridge to the Bridge to Nowhere). • Lake Mangamāhoe Mountain Bike Park sits on the southern edge of New Plymouth with tracks ranging from easy to advanced. • Taranaki Cycle Park is a purpose-built bike complex featuring pump tracks, a skills area, learners’ pad, two off-road courses and a 333m velodrome.

on’t be fooled by the immediate seclusion; even though your route, the SH 43, feels like the quietest state highway in New Zealand, this trail is by no means a doddle. Constant hills with a total ascent of 2017m, rugged farmland and gravel roads will exhaust both your bike tyres – and your derrière! You’re in for a demanding Grade 4 challenge from beginning to end. Highlights along the way include historic tunnels, some with wooden gabled roofs and ceilings lined with fossilised shellfish; the remote township of Whangamomona which is its own republic (complete with passport stamp) as well as challenging saddles and a sense of total abandonment. Here you can fully detach yourself from the real world, and while you will be travelling mostly by road, keep an ear out for vehicles and an eye out for rambling goats!

Finally, the award-winning New Plymouth Coastal Walkway brings civilisation back into cognisance, forging a route into New Plymouth proper, but not before dazzling new arrivals with its epic surf and kinetic artwork.

HEARTLAND RIDE • FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY CYCLE ROUTE

FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY

Mangamāhoe © Rach Stewart

riding the trail HEARTLAND RIDE • FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY CYCLE ROUTE

TAUMARUNUI TO TAHORA SADDLE, 77KM From Taumarunui, SH 43 heads over hilly farmland for 30km or so before climbing over Paparata Saddle. It then drops down into the beautiful Tāngarākau Gorge, cloaked in native forest. This is followed by 12km of gravel road. Although this is relatively smooth, it’s not always an easy ride on road bike tyres, especially when the road has just been graded. Beyond the gorge there is a moderate climb to the Moki Tunnel (known locally as the Hobbit’s Hole) and over Tahora Saddle.

TAHORA SADDLE TO PŪRANGI, 45KM It’s a long and gentle downhill ride to the settlement of Whangamomona where you’ll find the Whangamomona Hotel and Bushlands Campground. Not only charming and full of rural history, it stakes a claim as New Zealand’s only independent republic, and celebrates that fact every second January. Heading south from the ‘republic’, the route turns off the state highway and heads west on Junction Rd. The first 16km of Junction Rd is gravel, and requires wide road tyres or mountain-bike tyres. Junction Rd passes through several original settlements, including Pūrangi,

Highlights of the trail where accommodation is available in the original schoolhouse. The road is narrow, quiet and scenic. You will need to watch out for goats, sheep and cattle wandering along the verge.

PŪRANGI TO NEW PLYMOUTH, 63KM The route continues over Tarata Saddle, through another picturesque tunnel, and down to a historic suspension bridge across the Waitara River. The ride leaves the very best for last, as the route now becomes a shared path through Bell Block and around the coast where you will enjoy some spectacular views as you head into New Plymouth. Known as the New Plymouth Coastal Walkway, this award-winning 12.7km pathway winds along the edge of the Tasman Sea, past epic surf breaks and dynamic kinetic art. You can take a 30-minute stroll from the central city to Breakwater Bay, a bustling coastal precinct alongside Ngāmotu Beach. New Plymouth has plenty to offer the visitor, including Egmont National Park, surfing, a boat cruise out to the Sugar Loaf Islands, plus dining and shopping in the bustling urban centre. Breakwater Bay is also a great spot to see a stunning west coast sunset.

• Trundle down the Forgotten World Railway in a selfdriven rail cart with Forgotten World Adventures. These easy-to-handle golfstyle carts venture into abandoned tunnels on full or half-day excursions. • The amusing town of Whangamomona has been its own republic since 1988, complete with an elected President, which has included a poodle, a goat and a turtle. Visitors can get their passport stamped in the local pub, the Whangamomona Hotel. • There are several tunnels along the track but Moki Tunnel is the best known. Also called the ‘Hobbit’s Hole’, this is where you’ll find giant fossilised crabs on the ceiling. • Built in 1897 and restored a handful of times since, the Bertrand Road Suspension Bridge crosses Waitara River, with its 19th century aesthetics proudly maintained. • The Wind Wand is a kinetic sculpture designed by Len Lye,

and features on the beautiful, 12.7km New Plymouth Coastal Walkway. • New Plymouth invites guests to explore its free-entry museums, acclaimed surf beaches, the esteemed GovettBrewster Art Gallery (also free to peruse) and exceptional coastline. • Taumarunui is your gateway to Whanganui National Park and home to excellent kayaking. Trout fishing is world -famous, and Lauren’s Lavender Farm is as pretty as it sounds. You can also take high-tea in an enchanting space at Bradleys Garden. • At Taumarununi, this trail connects with two Great Rides, The Timber Trail and the Mountains to Sea Trails.

ABOVE: Forgotten World Highway © Adobe Stock

HAWKE’S BAY Trails

WINERIES RIDE, WATER RIDE and LANDSCAPES RIDE 1-4 days

200km

Celebrated for its vineyards, Hawke’s Bay doesn’t solely accommodate wine aficionados; whatever your deposition, this region delivers.

rom the trail you can enjoy handmade cheese to the richest of ice cream, the coffee is to die for, and long, languid lunches and dinners are almost a condition of entry. Even if your interests lie in the arts, nature and outdoors, Hawke’s Bay has that covered, too.

With mile upon mile of mostly flat gentle terrain, coastal trails, picnic spots, great surf and idyllic swimming holes, you’re invited to earn this array of indulgences. Easiness prevails here. With nearly 200km spread over three unique rides, enjoy the year-round

GREAT RIDE • HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS

BEST FOR: Savouring the views and enjoying the company, while satisfying both your taste buds and your bike tyres.

Mediterranean-like climate. Pick and choose from mostly flat off-road routes, that don’t go above Grades 1 to 3. Even the littlest of legs (here’s looking at you, kid) can give it a whirl and playgrounds litter the routes. With this variety of trails offering different experiences to enjoy, you’ll want to stay a few nights. There are endless ways to plan your journey into multi-day itineraries by utilising the region’s vast bike hire, cycle tour and accommodation options. And if you need a break from the saddle the region features a multitude of attractions, from the National Aquarium, mini-golf or golf, gannet colonies, museums, galleries, Splash Planet Water Park, Te Mata Peak and shopping centres – such is the magnificence of this region’s offerings. You can even ride directly from Hawke’s Bay Airport, the trails are literally out of their front door. TOP TIP – Soothe tired cyclist thighs at Napier’s Ocean Spa on Marine Parade. These outdoor hot pools stay open late.

GREAT RIDE • HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS WATER RIDE, 90KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST)

The Water Ride encompasses the flat, easy trails surrounding the city of Napier. The 20km concrete section from Bay View to Napier and onto Clive is suitable for all recreational users including wheelchairs. Inland following the estuary, you can explore pre-earthquake history, a working farm, while traversing conservation land, to learn about the wetlands, teeming with estuary birdlife. The ride then takes you up the Tūtaekurī River to Puketapu Pub and back to Waitangi Regional Park.

WINERIES RIDE, 45KM GRADE 1-2 (EASIEST-EASY)

The loop around the Gimblett Gravels, Ngatarawa Triangle and Bridge Pā is a great way to get a taste of some of the Bay’s world-class chardonnays, Bordeaux-style reds and syrah. Around a dozen wineries line the route; some have cellar-door dining – ring ahead to check opening hours and make bookings. Refreshing craft beer or cider is a short detour away, either at Roosters Brewery, on Omahu Road or a short detour up the road from Fernhill to Zeffer Cidery. Roys Hill Reserve or Hastings Golf Club are good places to start, or access the ride from Hastings via the iWay city cycling route, or from Clive by riding along the Ngaruroro river trail.

LANDSCAPES RIDE, 55KM GRADE 1-3 (EASIEST – INTERMEDIATE)

The Landscapes Ride explores the picturesque coastal communities of Clive, Haumoana, Te Awanga and Clifton, before connecting with the village of Havelock North. The coast section of the trail borders the pacific ocean connecting you to the iconic Cape Kidnappers. Travelling inland the river section of the trail explores the Tukituki Valley, traversing the foothills of sleeping giant ‘Te Mata; and into the quaint Havelock North Village.

PUKETAPU LOOP (SECTION OF WATER RIDE), 18KM GRADE 1-2 (EASIEST-EASY)

The Puketapu pub is a major destination of this excellent short loop from Taradale on the outskirts of Napier. The trail follows the banks of the pretty Tūtaekurī River (with some short on-road sections), attractions including a historic church, pā (Māori fortified village), gallery and chocolate factory café, plus plenty of spots for picnics and swimming. Around the halfway point, Puketapu village is a rewarding pit-stop with its popular country pub, and a store next door serving ice creams. Riders wanting a longer outing can start at Waitangi Regional Park, on the coast and cycle upstream for 10km beside the Tūtaekurī River to Taradale. continued on p.63

continued from p.62

Highlights of the trail

CLIVE TO CLIFTON (SECTION OF LANDSCAPES RIDE), 15KM GRADE 1-2 (EASIEST-EASY) Starting at the township of Clive, this short but intensely picturesque section of the Landscapes Ride hugs the Pacific Ocean, passing through coastal communities along the way. Highlights of the trail include wetlands, vistas of Cape Kidnappers across the bay, informative local cultural and heritage art installations, wineries, cafés, a museum, a popular surfing spot and even a farmyard zoo. Arguably the ride’s best feature, however, is accessed from the seaside hamlet of Clifton – gateway to Cape Kidnappers. The gannet colony, with the birds in residence from October to March, is viewable on either a 3–4hr guided tour; or by hiring fat bikes from a depot at Clifton. Gannets at Cape Kidnappers © Hawke’s Bay Tourism

•

at a nearby café or feed the alpacas at Hawke’s Bay Farmyard petting zoo. Discover Wetlands rich in native birds. Stop off at the bird hides and spy a myriad of species. Cape Kidnappers peninsula is home to the largest gannet colony in the world (gannets can be seen from September to early April). Visit at your own risk and check warning signs. The sunny Hawke’s Bay is one of New Zealand’s oldest wine regions and home to a multitude of vineyards. The wine region produces numerous grape varieties, with chardonnay being the most widely planted. Stop for a break in the little settlement of Puketapu. Home to The Puketapu, a traditional country pub with excellent meals, a general store with delicious ice creams and a great kids’ playground. All sorts of chocolate marvels are made in front of patron’s eyes at Silky Oak Chocolates found in Napier.

GREAT RIDE • HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS

Napier

• Ātea a Rangi Star Compass is a series of large Māori carvings that form a striking Celestial Circle to represent traditional Māori navigation methods. Located in Waitangi Regional Park, a short drive from Napier. • Head to the Ice Creamery on Heretaunga St in Hastings and sit amongst the roses and fish ponds while you enjoy an iconic Rush Munro’s ice cream. • Origin Earth is an artisan cheese factory in Havelock North. Pop in for cheese tasting and a wedge of something punchy for your picnic. • Venture a little off trail to find the Waiohiki Creative Arts Village: an art studio, workshop and gallery. The community is home to artists-in-residence so you’ll also meet various creatives. • With over 70 wineries in the region, vineyard bike hopping is top of most people’s to-do list. • Visit the coastal suburb of Awatoto and watch the model airplanes soar overhead. • Large swells rolling in from the east make the surf at Te Awanga fantastic. Grab a coffee

after British soldier Sir Charles Napier • 21km NE of Hastings

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Ride the dedicated flat, easy trails knowing you are never more than 20 minutes away from your next cafe, cellar door or fruit stall!

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unique experiences in NAPIER

GREAT RIDE • HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS

Following a 1931 earthquake, Napier rebuilt itself into the cool coastal city that you see today. 1. UNIQUE WINE TASTING Marvel at the giant-sized fermenters at The Urban Winery. Home to Tony Bish Wines, his cellar, located in the National Tobacco Company art deco building (known as the ‘Rothmans’ building) harbours huge

egg-shaped wine barrels made from concrete and French oak. 2. VINTAGE ART DECO TOURS Almost as plentiful as the wine is Napier’s art deco scene. For the ultimate experience, book a guided tour around town in a striking 1930s classic car. 3. DO TIME Provided with an audio device, you’ll be hanging on the narrator’s every word at Napier Prison. Built in 1862, this former penitentiary has stories to tingle your every vertebrae.

Finger printing and mugshot photographers keep the mood light for children. 4. WALK IT OUT Stroll along Marine Parade. Jutting into the water is the Napier Viewing Platform with sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean. For something strenuous, Bluff Hill Lookout is a steep 35-minute walk from the city centre, but the views are worth the puff. 5. ATTEND THE NAPIER ART DECO FESTIVAL If you’ve ever yearned to live in a glitzy, glamorous Great Gatsby era, here’s your chance. Every year, over five fabulous days in February, Napier’s streets erupt with hundreds of art deco events. 6. GET ARTSY Admire the public art installations that speckle Te Matau-a-Maui Art and Heritage Trail. The pathway traces the cycleway to Cape Kidnappers, passing the coastal communities of Haumoana and Te Awanga. ABOVE: Napier buildings on The Esplanade © Adobe Stock

11 Storkey St, Napier P +64 6 843 9126 P 0800 457 275 kennedypark.co.nz

MORE MOUNTAIN BIKING, PLEASE! Hawke’s Bay is notoriously flat but there are still plenty of places for mountain bikers. Pan Pac Eskdale Mountain Bike Park With more than 100km of tracks and five different sections for every skill level, this is one of New Zealand’s largest mountain bike parks. Taradale Dirt Park and Pump Track Located beside the Pettigrew Green Arena in Taradale, this small dirt jump park is free to use and best for beginners and intermediates. Napier Pump Track Stationed on Marine Parade next to the Rotary Pathway, this all-weather park is both free to use and super convenient for those staying in central Napier. Te Mata Peak What goes up, must come down. At the top of Te Mata Peak there is a sign indicating a 2km downhill mountain bike track. As you can imagine, it’s steep, fast and if you’re a thrillseeker, a lot of fun.

72 HOURS IN HAWKE’S BAY

Base yourself in Hastings, the largest town in Hawke’s Bay. It’s a lively mecca of seaside charm, art deco and sunshine.

SATURDAY: Catching the sunrise from the summit of Te Mata Peak is well worth the shrill of your alarm. This great swathe of rippled land stands 399km high, with an enchanting Redwood Forest at its nape. Seek out the

88 Meeanee Quay, Westshore, Napier P/F: 06 835 9456 E: westshoreholiday@xtra.co.nz www.westshoreholidaypark.co.nz RESERVATIONS: 0800 WESTSHORE

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Individually appointed tent sites Large recreational area Campervan drive on strips

SUNDAY: Hastings is home to Hawke’s Bay Farmers’ Market: the longest running market in New Zealand. Buzzing every Sunday from 8.30am, sample the region’s freshest produce. Afterwards, head 10 minutes out of town to Arataki Honey Visitor Centre and discover what makes a queen bee tick. Before leaving Hastings today, grab a bag of sugar-loaded lollies from Birdwoods Gallery and Sweet Shop in Havelock North. This will ensure your journey home is sweet-as. LEFT: Te Mata Peak © Adobe Stock INSET: Funky shop in Hastings © DWB

ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAILS GENTLE ANNIE: 136km/2 days Linking to the Hawke’s Bay Trails (as well as two other Heartland Rides: Route 52 and the Taihape Trail), this remote winding road was originally used by Māori. ROUTE 52: 202km/2 days Linking Hawke’s Bay to the Wairarapa region, long stretches of riding pass through farm and towns.

CYCLE TRAIL passes the property • BIKE WASH BAY and BIKE LOCKER l Centrally located l FREE WiFi

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• Walk to Ahuriri bars & restaurants • Secure bike storage • Cycleways • Cycleway metres from the motel • Friendly service guaranteed

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Café at Clifton © Hawke’s Bay Trails

GREAT RIDE • HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS

FRIDAY: Take a short drive (or cycle if you’re still in the lycra) to Cape Kidnappers. The jagged white bluffs that define this landmark slide into the Pacific Ocean cliff-bycliff, leaving great toothy boulders exposed, much like the jagged spine of a sleeping dinosaur. Come September, the clifftops are seized by the world’s largest mainland colony of gannets, where they stay – squabbling, squawking and breeding – until early April.

small township of Havelock North, where Keirunga Gardens boasts a 846m-long miniature train winding through tiny tunnels and bridges. Back in Hastings, a self-guided walks’ brochure can be picked up from the Information Centre or you can head to Civic Square where the free City Art Gallery is stoically guarded by Nga Pou O Heretaunga: 18 Māori carvings. After dinner, catch a film at Focal Point Cinema. With its fabulous art deco façade, a date here feels fun and retro.

MANAWATŪ Cycleway

MANGAWEKA to PALMERSTON NORTH 2-3 days

HEARTLAND RIDE • MANAWATŪ CYCLEWAY

There is more to the Manawatū Cycleway than first meets the eye. Tracing the quiet, backcountry roads connecting Mangaweka to Palmerston North, the colours somehow seem brighter here; the hues vivid and more defined. This off-the-beaten escape is not just a bike ride, it’ll completely re-establish your connection with nature.

115km BEST FOR: Pure escapism. Your only distractions are soaring cliffs and dramatic backdrops.

full two days is recommended to experience the Manawatū Cycleway, allocating plenty of time to stop and absorb the scenery, or to bunker down for the night at a farmland retreat. Every inch of this cycleway offers something retina-pleasing. The dazzling-white cliffs of Mangaweka defy the usual conventions of mountain peaks, instead, topping their creamy papa rock faces with a verdant green frosting. Nearby, Ruahine Dress Circle Reserve, so called for its opera-house aesthetics, offers an idyllic spot for picnics and swimming, and the Mangahuia Wetlands are so lush, one full inhale and you’ll feel replenished. For glowworms, detour onto Table Flat Rd, or later, Tōtara Reserve. In autumn, the entire Pohangina Valley turns gold, while in summer, roadside blueberry picking is not only nostalgic, it makes for a great snack, too. The bijou townships of Rangiwahia and Āpiti throb with community spirit, and once you arrive in the bustling city of Palmerston North, a mecca of street art and sculpture, museums, history and culture awaits. Totara Reserve, Pohangina River © ManawatuNZ.co.nz

riding the trail

MANGAWEKA TO ĀPITI, 45KM

ĀPITI TO ASHHURST, 55KM

On from Āpiti, head back up Ōroua Valley Rd and into Pohangina Valley East Rd. There are some amazing photo opportunities as you wind your way down into the Pohangina Valley, especially in autumn when the foliage turns gold. In summer, look out for blueberry picking and swimming spots in the river. From the Valley Rd junction, it’s 26km to the small, basic Piripiri Campsite run by the Department of Conservation. Just

Tararua Traverse: 67km/1 day A challenging route over the Tararua Ranges. Check for closures: sections by taxi may be required.

Ōroua Valley Lookout © ManawatuNZ.co.nz

down the road is Springvale Gardens and accommodation. This area is rich in native bush and has a good range of bush walks for all abilities. Head down past the historic Komako Church and you will find Totara Reserve, a playground of native bush, glowworm caves, swimming holes and campsites with great facilities. Another 12km on from here is Raumai Reserve, a great place to cool off in the river; there are also restrooms here. Ride the trail down the road and turn left onto Pohangina Rd (on weekends, a 5km detour into Pohangina Village is worthwhile to visit County Fayre, a community-run tea room and heritage display site, and the nearby Cartwheel Creamery, award-winning makers of artisan cheese). Continue down Pohangina Rd for 8km to reach Ashhurst. Stop for coffee and baked goods from the local cafés or grocery shop, picnic on the village green, or explore Ashhurst Domain where there is camping available. Ashhurst Inn offers all day dining and good accommodation.

ASHHURST TO PALMERSTON NORTH, 20KM

From Cambridge Ave, turn left onto SH 3 (Napier Rd). Continue down and pull off to the left before the bridge, then ride down under the bridge and onto the first

section of the Manawatū River Pathway. You’ll ride along for 3km before turning right onto Raukawa Rd, bringing you back out onto SH 3. Turn right and head along SH 3, keeping to the shoulder for 2.6km then turn left onto Te Matai Rd. Follow Te Matai Rd until Riverside Dr. Turn left down Riverside Dr and at the end of this road is the second section of the Manawatū River Pathway. You’ll follow a gentle, undulating path that follows the Manawatū River into Palmerston North city for 6km. At the Fitzherbert Ave Bridge, take the path under and around the bridge to the right (where you can detour into the stunning Victoria Esplanade gardens and café) and head up Fitzherbert Ave. It’s just 2km to The Square. For a longer cycle, carry on another 1.5km along the river pathway to the new He Ara Kotahi bridge which will take you across the Manawatū River, along boardwalks and through native bush to Linton Military Camp (5.6km). For a shorter 3.8km cycle, you can do the Fitzherbert Avenue Bridge to He Ara Kotahi Bridge Loop. Palmerston North City i-SITE has luggage lockers and showers and can arrange your bookings while providing you information on your next stop. ‘Palmy’ has plenty to offer the visiting cycle-tourer, including street art and a

sculpture trail, plus Te Manawa Museum of Art, Science & Heritage and the New Zealand Rugby Museum. It’s also great for dining, with a range of cafés, restaurants and pubs dotted throughout the central city centre.

Highlights of the trail • Te Parapara Rd is particularly scenic, but no photograph does it justice. Seeing is believing. • Swim at the secluded Ruahine Dress Circle Reserve: waterfalls bathed in native forest. • Found in an old dairy factory, the Rangiwahia Environmental Arts Centre (REACT) reuses and upcycles almost anything into artwork. • For handcrafted cheese from

the Pohangina Valley, the Cartwheel Creamery is open for sales and tastings, by appointment only so call ahead. • Travel 35km west of Palmerston North to the coast and eat fish and chips on Hīmatangi Beach, watch the sun set and then enjoy a twilight walk. • Detour one hour from Apiti for a 600m walk to Limestone Creek where there are caves, arches

and glowworms. • Entry to Mangahuia Wetlands is free. Pack a picnic and laze around the lake. • Victoria Esplanade is a beautiful public garden in Palmerston North. Packed with rose gardens, barbecues, aviaries, croquet lawns and a miniature railway.

HEARTLAND RIDE • MANAWATŪ CYCLEWAY

Ride past the Mangaweka Campground and over the bridge where you will be greeted with the impressive sight of soaring white papa (mudstone) cliffs and magnificent cobbled river terraces. Just 12km from the start of Ruahine Rd, you will find Mairenui Rural Retreat. Be sure to check out the Ruahine Dress Circle Scenic Reserve. This swimming and picnic spot off Lagoon Rd sits on a river bend and is surrounded by cliffs and dotted with waterfalls. Early settlers named the spot the dress circle because the cliffs reminded them of an opera house. The turn-off is 11km south of the Mangaweka Bridge. At Mangaweka, stop off at Awastone for something to eat and drink at their café or take a rafting or kayaking trip along the Rangitīkei River. Rangiwahia is only 10km from Mairenui. It has public toilets, campsites, free WiFi and interesting stories to tell. Get back on the road and head down Te Parapara Rd. Be sure to savour the views along this particularly scenic stretch. Lush farmland with the Ruahine Ranges as a backdrop greets you as you enter Main South Rd. Stop for a break at Mangahuia Wetlands, a series of ponds that are home to native birdlife and trout. Heading along Main South Rd, you’ll travel through the dramatic Mangoira Gorge. After the Gorge, you can take a detour by turning into Table Flat Rd (gravel) for some great panoramas alongside Table Flat Farmstay and the Limestone Creek Reserve glowworm caves Back on Main South Rd, continue down and detour onwards into Āpiti for artist studios and camping at the Āpiti Domain.

ADD-ON HEARTLAND RIDE

HEARTLAND RIDE • MANAWATŪ CYCLEWAY

Make the most of Palmerston North Bike Rides: If you’re missing the saddle, jump back on for a skedaddle around the city. Skirt the banks of the Manawatū River on a 10km riverside jaunt or step it up a gear on the Grade 3 Turitea Loop Track. ABOVE: Cuba St, Palmerston North © ManawatuNZ.co.nz

Beer: Grab a cold one at Brewers Apprentice, or head to Brew Union on Broadway Ave for 21 taps all pouring the gold stuff. Just 30 minutes south of Palmerston North is the iconic Tui Brewery, featuring its recognisable brick tower, brew house, tours, café and free museum.

Mangaweka At Mangaweka, the Mangaweka Adventure Company and campgrounds are the gateway to the playground of the Rangitīkei River, which is popular for river rafting and kayaking. In summer (and by special arrangement in winter) the fully licensed Awastone Café offers relaxed riverside dining with impressive views. Offering top-notch food and a warm welcome, the Apiti Tavern is a great place to rest and refuel before the next leg. The Totara Reserve between Apiti and Ashhurst has good camping facilities surrounded by a large native forest. Bush walks, nature trails with glowworm caves and great swimming spots are all good reasons to spend some time here. In Ashhurst, make sure you stop off at The Herb Farm, with its family-friendly gardens, day spa and great café. In summer, pop into the Ashhurst Domain for a swim in the Manawatū River. Te Apiti Wind Farm is always worth a look, affording a great view of the Manawatū and Wairarapa beneath the massive wind turbines. Mangaweka Adventure Company and Awastone © Destination Manawatū

Nudging the banks of Manawatū River, maximise your downtime in Palmerston North.

Mountain Biking: Palmerston North is jam-packed with mountain biking areas. Arapuke Forest Park (Grade 2-5) is the city’s premier mountain bike park for all skill levels but if you’re a total beginner, stick to the Jack Frost trail. In the surrounding Manawatū District, there’s Te Ara O Mahurangi (Grade 4) which is technical and downhill, as well as Takapari Rd (Grade 4-5) which climbs high into the Ruahine Range. For epic downhill mountain biking, try Kohitere Trig (Grade 3-4) in Kohitere Forest. Museums: Te Manawa Museum of Art, Science and History is a must-do, with engaging exhibits that reflect the history in a way that’s meaningful to all ages. Right next door is the New Zealand Rugby Museum. You’ll find some of the world’s rarest rugby artefacts here.

The Square: With its striking clock tower and manicured lawns, The Square offers a peaceful sanctuary for everyone. The Māori name is Te Marae o Hine and within its borders there’s a pond, giant chess set, Māori carvings, interesting statues and scores of ducks. Come Thursday, The Square hosts a Food Truck Street Feast, with music and meals from around the world. Street Art: In January 2020 a bevy of local and international artists were invited to help paint 20 murals emblazoned across the CBD. There now exists an impressive array of street art to soak up with both your eyes and your camera. Pick up a map from the Palmerston North City i-SITE to find the larger-than-life creations in all manner of unexpected places.

Palmerston North

after British PM Lord Palmerston • 140km NE of Wellington on SH 3

154 Park Road Palmerston North

Phone - +64 6 356 7077 Fax - +64 6 356 7030

WATCH VIDEO

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REMUTAKA

Siberia Bridge, Remutaka Cycle Trail © Johnny Hendrikus

Cycle Trail

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

BEST FOR: Losing yourself in the natural and industrial remnants that surround our capital.

PETONE to ŌRONGORONGO 2-3 days

114km

Starting on the edge of Wellington Harbour, the Remutaka Cycle Trail flits between urban townships and untamed wilderness, meaning you’re never too far from a strong latte and a wild landscape.

rom disused train tracks to historic settlements, pockets of human activity hint at an industrial past, while rugged coastlines, lakes and river valleys allow for a total retreat into nature.

As intrepid as the ride may sound, there are no major hill climbs and the tracks are mostly flat. With several access points, day rides are just as feasible as the entire two to three-day shebang. © Remutaka Cycle Trail

TOP TIP – With several, often lengthy, tunnels along the trail, don’t forget bike lights or a head torch.

Flirting with the seaside, Petone’s fondness for good coffee, food, fashion labels and craftmanship nurtures a lively and innovative spirit. Head to Jackson St to experience the best of it. Venturing into Hutt Valley, often referred to as Wellington’s ‘big backyard’, the terrain gets noticeably wilder, and by the time you reach the Remutaka Range, the only noise left is natural. This forested trail traces an old railway line and includes a 584m-long tunnel and a 90m swing bridge over Siberia Gully. To navigate the tunnels, don’t forget your bike lights or a head torch. Pedal on towards Wairarapa, where several townships offer hearty food, and by the time Wairarapa Moana (Lake Wairarapa) comes into view, the topography has changed yet again, into one of wetland and estuary. The coastal road is often lashed by an unforgiving wind that gives reason to its shipwrecks and plenty of quake-made topography. At Turakirae Head, rocks once shaped by sea are now ruled by seals and it’s only a little further to Ōrongorongo River mouth, where pre-booked shuttles return to Petone and Wellington (or you can carry on along the add-on Wainuiomata Valley Ride back to Lower Hutt).

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

before things start to get a little wilder along the coast.

OCEAN BEACH TO ŌRONGORONGO RIVER, 18KM

PETONE TO MAYMORN, 35KM Start on the northern shores of Wellington Harbour at the iconic Petone Wharf, or nearby at Petone Station. Travel on to the Petone Settlers Museum, built to commemorate the region’s very early Māori and European settlement. Explore the area’s heritage with a pit stop in Jackson Street’s popular cafés and shopping strip, then follow the easy-riding Hutt River Trail through the leafy suburbs of Lower Hutt and Upper Hutt. You’ll find river side parks, cafés and playgrounds and local swimming holes dotted all along the way. When you reach Te Marua, you’ll leave the riverbank and follow a short 2km section of road to the end of the trail at Maymorn (the start of section two).

MAYMORN TO CROSS CREEK, 25KM The second section of the Remutaka Cycle Trail follows an old railway route and the most popular section of this trail, established in 1878 as a connection between Wellington and the Wairarapa. The trail weaves through the Remutaka Range taking in historical sights along the way. You’ll plunge through restored rail

tunnels, cross the historic ‘Howe’ truss bridge (1876) spanning the Pakuratahi River, and pass through old rail yards before a gentle climb through native bush and plantation forest to the ‘summit’. Then, it’s a downhill ride along the historic Fell Locomotive Incline with an exciting half-kilometre journey through Summit Tunnel (1877) and the majestic Siberia Gully suspension bridge. At the bottom of the hill you’ll emerge at Cross Creek, where you’ll enter the wide-open expanse of the Wairarapa Valley. At Cross Creek you can choose to turn north-east on Western Lake Rd and continue to Featherston (10km), to catch the train back to Wellington or carry on to section three.

CROSS CREEK TO OCEAN BEACH, 36KM Cycling via the Hutt River © Caleb Smith

Starting at Cross Creek ride through quiet farm country along the shores of Lake Wairarapa and Lake Ōnoke to reach Ocean Beach on the shores of Palliser Bay. Your journey will take you south-west through ‘big sky country’, where sheep and cattle graze on lush farm pastures once home to some of New Zealand’s earliest sheep stations. You’ll then pass Lake Ōnoke, part of the Wairarapa Moana Wetlands Park, supporting more than one hundred species indigenous and migratory water birds. Along the way you’ll find cottage accommodation options which are great options to overnight on multi-day journeys and you also have an option to detour into Wairarapa wine country. Finally, you’ll arrive on the South Coast amongst rows of iconic Kiwi baches on Ocean Beach (the start of section four)

This is the most spectacular section with the rugged beauty of the wild south coast. It’s matched with equally big weather which can make the trail challenging in wind and rain – plus the trail surface can be rocky and sandy in short stretches. You’ll pass by Turakirae Head and see raised beaches formed by a series of tectonic uplifts over the past 7000 years and in winter meet some of the 500 fur seals that make their home here. Then ride alongside Ōrongorongo Station, one of the longest running farm operations in New Zealand, northwest to the mouth of the Ōrongorongo River and the car park signalling the trail end. Wainuiomata Coast Rd through to Petone provides a Connector Ride to take you back to the start of your adventure in Petone, along this road you will find side adventures to the Baring Head lighthouse trails, Remutaka Forest Park walking trails, hospitality in Wainuiomata.

Coffee machine at Havana Coffee Works © WellingtonNZ

Highlights of the trail

•

a stay at Te Rakau Birding and Cabins. Offering tours as well as accommodation, the area is flush with our feathered friends. Earthquakes and land movement have sculpted this area. Look for Kotumu Fan, the largest rockslide on the trail, although in reality you can’t miss it. Turakirae Head is home to hundreds of kekeno (New Zealand fur seals). The best detour you can take will be to Wairarapa wine country, for obvious reasons! Martinborough is in south Wairarapa and features small, locally-run vineyards with over 20 boutique cellar doors. The Great Harbour Way/Te Aranui o Pōneke is a 72km walking and cycling route around Te Whanganui-a-tara, the harbour of Wellington. From Ōrua-pouanui/Baring Head in the east, to Te Rimurapa/Sinclair Head in the west. Knock it out in one day, or take your time and spread it over two or more.

COFFEE fix

Café culture is alive and well in Wellington. Stop at one of these top five coffee spots for a caffeine fix. 1. Milk Crate: A bijou café just off lively Cuba St, if the robust coffee doesn’t wake you up, then the bright yellow interior certainly will. 2. Lashings: Specialising in a comprehensive brownie and ice cream menu, every creation is crafted by the owner, a former pastry chef. 3. Bicycle Junction: It would be

Wellington City

rude not to, all things considered. This bike shop-cum-café is affectionately known as the bikery and serves great coffee in between bike services. 4. Prefab: Always heaving, this café channels an industrial interior, with a large indoor and outdoor seating area. The coffee is roasted on site. 5. Neo Café & Eatery: Located on Willis St, this popular eatery is a mecca for a Sunday brunch. With a focus on wholesome food and with top notch baristas, this is a mustvisit when you’re in Wellington.

after Duke of Wellington, British military hero • on SH 1

WELLINGTON’S WELLINGTON’S

UPPER HUTT WATCH VIDEO

KIWIHOLIDAY HOLIDAY PARK KIWI PARK

Gateway to the south... Features all-weather and grass power sites Suitable for large buses and campervans. Approximately 25 minutes from Wellington and ferry terminals. Connecting bus and train service to Wellington City from holiday park. Seasonal rates.

Easy access to Remutaka Cycle Trail, Forest Park Wellington’s and Orongorongo Track. Secure bike storage and Kiwi Holiday bike cleaning facilities. Park TARIFF: • Tent sites $18 adult, $10 child (unmetered showers) • Power sites $28 (single), $45 (double), extra $18, child $10 • Standard Cabins $50 (double), extra $15, child $10 45 Akatarawa Rd, • Family Cabins $75 (double), extra $15, child $10 Upper Hutt • ECO Cabins $80 (double), extra $15, child $10 P +64 4 526 7400 • Kitchen Cabins $90 (double), extra $15, child $10 M 027 243 2133 E harcourtholidaypark@xtra.co.nz • Tourist flats $120 (double), extra $15, child $10 Proprietors: Giles Family • Motels $145 (double), extra $15, child $10

Phone for reservations: +64 4 526 7400 www.harcourtholidaypark.co.nz 71

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

• Visit Kaitoke Regional Park and you’ll end up at the location for Rivendell in The Lord of the Rings. Film sets aside, there are multiple swimming holes along the riverbank so pack a picnic. • Hutt Valley is composed of 3000ha of parks, reserves, bush-clad hills, beaches and walkways, with the buzzy suburbs of Lower Hutt and Upper Hutt just minutes apart. • The 221m-long Maymorn Tunnel grants an alternative starting point to the trail. • Taste all-natural sparkling spring water from the fountain that resides on the corner of Petone’s Buick and Jackson sts. • Petone’s trendy Jackson St boasts a collection of hip cafés, art galleries and boutiques. • Discover the world’s only remaining steam powered Fell Locomotive at the Fell Locomotive Museum, along with a rich railway heritage, in historic Featherston. • Bird lovers should incorporate

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

More mountain biking, please

24 hours in Wellington

Cycling Mākara Peak © WellingtonNZ.com

You can bring the whole family for a cruise around easy-grade Koru and Lazy Fern, get some berm action and spectacular summit views on the intermediate trails, or tear into the gnarly, technical trails if you’re an expert. A great sampling of Mākara Peak’s intermediate and advanced tracks, the Grand Loop is a popular circuit. Built and maintained by dedicated

volunteers, the 12km loop takes in the summit and plenty of sweet single tracks with challenges for the more experienced rider. The summit of the 412m-high peak is reached on a single-track climb that’s not too taxing. After taking in the sweeping views of city and sea, you have the choice of trails graded between 3 and 6 for the start of the homeward run. The wide Peak Flow is designed to be the easiest descent from the summit, while Trickle Falls (Tricky Falls) is one of the most technical. If you can’t make the first drop-off with confidence, turn back as it only gets worse. Mākara Peak can get busy at weekends and during public holidays, so if you like some space, an early, late or weekday ride is your best bet. The Mākara Peak Mountain Bike Park’s main car park is 1km down South Karori Rd.

Wellington City

after Duke of Wellington, British military hero • on SH 1

Looking for a

CYCLING ADVENTURE

on the Remutaka Cycle Trail? Base yourself at CityLife Wellington. Located in the heart of the city, CityLife Wellington is the perfect inner-city base. Stay a minimum 2 nights in a 2-bedroom suite & receive a

15% discount

Book online at www.heritagehotels.co.nz and use the promo code CYCLE2x10 Subject to availability, valid until 31/10/22

300 Lambton Quay, Wellington.

Vehicle entrance from 14 Gilmer Terrace

HHM629WLG 10/20

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

he hub of Wellington’s vast mountain biking network, Mākara Peak’s tracks, range from flow to whoa! A massive hill around 15 minutes drive from Wellington, the purpose-built Mākara Peak Mountain Bike Park was established in 1998 and is now a first-rate attraction. With over 40km of tracks in 250ha of regenerating native bush, the park offers great variety for such an easily accessible location.

Book now: heritagehotels.co.nz/NZCycleTrail or 04 922 2800

Petone

end of the sand beach • 14km NE of Wellington on SH 2

FORESHORE MOTOR LODGE

• Right on Petone foreshore. • 15 comfortable units all with microwave/fridge/tea & coffee maker/toaster, some with cooking facilities. walking distance to supermarkets & shops. Free bike storage. • Tariff: studios from $150 (sleep 1-3), 1-brm unit from $180 (sleep 2-4). Big LED HD TV with Freeview. 5 Nelson St, Petone • P: +64 4 939 3609 www.foreshoremotorlodge.co.nz • E: info@foreshoremotorlodge.co.nz

Mt Victoria © Skyview Photography

This is what a perfect day in our small but mighty-fine capital looks like. MORNING: Wellington waterfront is one of the loveliest land-toseascapes in New Zealand. Start by embarking on the Wellington Writers Walk, combining an esplanade stroll with sculptures and quotations from New Zealand’s best wordsmiths. Stop for a coffee at Tuatua Café, a hole in the wall coffee bar complete with tables straddling the promenade. From this sun-soaked boardwalk, it’s just five minutes further to Te Papa, New Zealand’s internationally acclaimed museum. LUNCHTIME: With a rumble in your belly, head to Wellington’s Te Aro district. Specifically, Hannah’s Laneway (between Leeds and Eva sts). Dubbed the tastiest side street in the city, this central food haven hosts Fix and Fog, the cutest window-in-the-wall store with peanut butter samples, as well as Wellington Chocolate Factory, a bakery famed for its salted caramel cookies, a brew bar and a myriad of shabby-chic eateries. AFTERNOON: Next on your list is a Wellington must-do. Climb to

the top of the city on board the iconic red cable car, marvelling at LED-lighted tunnels and of course, city-spanning views from the summit. Soak up the serenity of the Wellington Botanic Garden and learn more about Wellington’s tramways at the Cable Car Museum. EVENING: For an aperitif this evening, descend on a little-known speak-easy called The Library. Found upstairs in Courtney Place, it’s packed to the rafters with well-loved books. From here, it’s a 10-minute walk to Cuba St. This quirky strip of bohemian stores and boutiques is mixed with an endless choice of dining options. Peruse the shops, many of which are open late, and then duck into your chosen venue for dinner.

ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAILS Wairarapa Valley Cycleway: 67km/4–6 hours This touring route between Remutaka Cycle Trail and Masterton is celebrated for its Wairarapa views and wine-tasting. Route 52: 202km/2 days Linking Hawke’s Bay to the Wairarapa region, long stretches of riding pass through farms and towns.

WAINUIOMATA

Cape Palliser © TBSPhotography.co.au

Connector Ride

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

Connecting the Wainuiomata Coast to the Hutt River, the Wainuiomata Connector Ride makes the most of its natural environment. An all on-road route, this bike ride that opened in 2020 flirts with valleys, forests, coasts, rivers and hillside.

tarting at the Ōrongorongo River car park at the end of Coast Rd in Wainuiomata, this 28km route travels over the Te Hikoi Arawera/Wainuiomata

Sleep in a lighthouse Wake up to the sound of crashing waves at the Lighthouse in Island Bay. Just 15 minutes from Wellington City centre, this three-floored lighthouse offers a unique seaside stay.

Hill Shared Pathway and finishes in Lower Hutt. Once here you can easily get back to Petone by hooking onto the Hutt River Trail (an easy scenic walking and cycling path Lighthouse, Island Bay © Lou Hatton

that runs alongside the Hutt River from Petone to Upper Hutt).

MORE MOUNTAIN BIKING, PLEASE

The Wainuiomata Connector Ride is a Grade 3-4 trail ride which utilises rural road from beginning to end.

Championed and maintained by local enthusiasts in Waiu Park, the Wainuiomata Trail Park is set in native bush and wetland 20 minutes from central Wellington. There is a decent selection of beginner and family tracks as well as a skills’ area.

TOP TIP – Combine your ride with a stay in Wainuiomata. Nudging both mountainside and coastline, this Lower Hutt suburb tickles picturesque Wainuiomata River.

Visit Wainuiomata Get back to nature: Mountains to the east, coastline to the west, you’re never too far from rugged forests, wild beaches, rivers and native bush. Bring your rugby ball: Wainuiomata has a reputation for producing talented rugby league players, with many spawning from the local Wainuiomata Rugby League Club. Meet kiwi: Book in at one of the rough-hewn huts in the Ōrongorongo Valley and come dusk, go in search of elusive kiwi. Embark on a bush walk: Stretch out your body poles (your legs) on one of the walks in Remutaka Forest Park. Jump on a horse: See the rugged landscape from a different saddle than your bike. Coastal View Horse Treks soak up the views over the valley and as far as Wellington City.

Queen Charlotte Track © Rod Bardsley

GREAT RIDE • QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

QUEEN CHARLOTTE

Track

BEST FOR: A challenging, multi-day ride that will leave you puffed, but impressed.

SHIP COVE to ANAKIWA 2-3 days

73.5km

Incredibly beautiful and rich in human history, the Marlborough Sounds is a magical place of deep blue bays, beaches, forest and viewfilled ridgelines. The Queen Charlotte Track takes visitors deep into its reaches.

on’t be under any preconceived idea that this ride won’t test your endurance. Those jaw-dropping views you seek are found from ridgelines, after long, relentless climbs. There are many sections that skirt the shoreline, traversing from one idyllic bay to the next, but this track is graded as intermediate

to advance for good reason. Some areas, such as the ridgetop sections of the central part are listed as Grade 5. However, day trips are a feasible choice for less advanced riders and if you’re overnighting, backpacks can be transferred to your accommodation by local operators, allowing for a lighter ride.

ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAIL Queen Charlotte Drive: 40km/2–4 hours This spectacular, winding path links Picton to Havelock. The Anakiwa end of the Queen Charlotte Track is just 4km away from Linkwater, found halfway along this route.

Along the way, various lodges offer comfortable stays. In fact, so isolated are these far-flung hideouts, they feel pleasantly unattainable to the outside world. From beginning to end, the journey never waivers from extraordinary. From secret coves to saddles and ridges offering stupendous views, this 73.5km track is commonly regarded as one of the best singletrack mountain bike rides in New Zealand. We have a feeling you’ll agree. Top Tip – A unique feature of this track is that entry and exit paths are accessed mostly by boat, starting with a scenic cruise from Picton to Meretoto (aka Ship Cove) to commence your ride.

GREAT RIDE • QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

MERETOTO/SHIP COVE TO CAMP BAY, 28.5KM The first section from Ship Cove to Camp Bay is closed for biking between 1 Dec and 28 Feb. The trail climbs gently away from the beach thanks to the new reroute, passing through impressive groves of tall native trees and a diverse understory of shrubs and ferns. Your gentle ascent ends at the Ship Cove Saddle, a lookout point with views of both the outer and inner Queen Charlotte/Totaranui. The track then winds its way to the shoreline at Schoolhouse Bay, where there is a DOC campsite, and then on above Resolution Bay. It’s a reasonably gentle climb out of Resolution Bay to reach Tawa Saddle. From there the

trail takes in views all the way around Endeavour Inlet. The track is mainly flat and wide, allowing riders to enjoy the forest and birdlife along with various salty seaside scenes and a couple of holiday resorts offering refreshments.

CAMP BAY TO TŌREA SADDLE, 24.5KM The QCTLC Pass is required for this section. Sidling around ridgelines for much of the way, this section certainly has its ups and downs but rewards riders with magnificent new panoramas at every turn. The climb from Camp Bay to Kenepuru Saddle is the first of many – totalling 900m in all – and ushers riders on to the ridgeline separating Queen Charlotte and

Kenepuru sounds. Eatwell’s Lookout is particularly impressive, but it is just one of many on this awesome section. Onward it goes, passing two DOC campsites and endless other spots to stop and absorb the grandeur. It’s a bit of a bumpy final run to Tōrea Saddle where the track meets the short, steep road linking the two Sounds. The right turn leads to Portage where there’s a campsite and other accommodation options. On-road alternative: riders looking for an easier route can ride the sealed road from Kenepuru Saddle to Portage. The road is quiet and undulating with pretty views.

TŌREA TO ANAKIWA, 20.5KM

The QCTLC Pass is required for this section. A decent whack of the day’s

600m of climbing is delivered in the fairly brutal first few kilometres; many riders will have to get off and push. This slog will soon be forgotten once back on the view-filled tops. Along this section the landscape is a patchy but pleasant mix of old farmland and regenerating native bush. The trail eventually dips down and sidles around the top of Lochmara Bay before hitting the final climb over Te Mahia Saddle. Riders with time and gas in the tank should head down to super-pretty Mistletoe Bay, a great place for a picnic (or indeed an overnight stop). From Te Mahia Saddle, it’s a relatively easy cruise around Ōnahau Bay and the Grove Arm, with the trail hugging the shoreline for the continued on p.78

continued from p.77

Vineyard cycling © Marlborough Tourism

Highlights of the trail

GREAT RIDE • QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

last few kilometres – handy if you’re keeping an eye out for your boat. If you have time, linger a while at Davies/ Umungata Bay just shy of the end of the trail. Then again, the ice cream stall at Anakiwa may well be open, and you’ll certainly have earned yourself a refreshing treat. In the past, most riders have finished their ride with the boat trip back to Picton, but the creation of the Link Pathway between Picton and Havelock means it’s also now possible to bike back to Picton via the picturesque Queen Charlotte Drive and Link Pathway which, once completed in 2022, will ‘link’ the Queen Charlotte Track with Picton and Havelock.

• Mistletoe Bay is a well-run eco-village with clean amenities and a laid-back vibe. • The track between Mistletoe Bay and Anakiwa boasts a handful of picturesque picnic spots. • Feed the stingray at the Underwater Observatory at Lochmara Bay. • With water in every shade of inviting blue, dismounting your bike for a quick dip is a moreish thing to do. • The pristine landscape lends itself to kayaking, walking, beach picnics and wildlife cruises. • Using interpretation panels, Ship Cove details significant historic events in the Sounds. • Wonderful waterside lodgings offer the perfect place to start (and end) your day. • You may come across fantails and weka, among other charming ‘locals’ such as dolphins and seals.

7 reasons to love Marlborough Sounds The Marlborough Sounds are a collection of sunken river valleys that succumbed to rising sea levels over 10,000 years ago. The pull of what lies beneath and above this vast expanse of water have always attracted people. Here are our seven top picks:

Taxi Boats

Road Trips Those with access to four wheels as well as two can find many beautiful places by car. An example is the drive from Rai Valley to Okiwi Bay which leads to a quieter corner of the Sounds.

French Pass Whirlpools

For views of the outer Sounds, the French Pass Rd cannot be beaten. Venture to a view of D’Urville Island, looking for naturally forming whirlpools. You may see fish haplessly struggling against all the commotion.

Leisurely Cruises

Boats grant access to every watery reach. Sail into Queen Charlotte or Kenepuru Sounds or help deliver mail to the remotest pockets of the Marlborough Sounds on board the Mail Boat Cruise.

• The boat back to Picton from Anakiwa takes approximately 30 minutes: grab an ice cream from the Green Caravan Café before you leave. • Adding the optional section to ride on to Picton will lead you to one of New Zealand’s finest harbours. Picton sits in a pretty horseshoe curve and is a great base for seeing more of the Sounds.

Water taxis and boat services mostly operate out of Picton, notably for the Queen Charlotte Sound, but some depart from Havelock for Kenepuru Sound as well as Pelorus Sound.

Ship Cove/Meretoto By visiting Queen Charlotte Sound, you will be following in the footsteps of both Kupe, the renowned Māori voyager, and Captain James Cook – the first European to land on New Zealand soil. Hence, the area is referred to by both its English moniker, Ship Cove, and its original Māori name, Meretoto. Today, there are sculptures, memorials and interpretation panels detailing fascinating stories of both men.

RIGHT: Mail boat INSET: Mussels, Havelock BOTH: © Only Marlborough

Dolphin Swimming

Bottlenose dolphins are regularly spotted here. They’re famously curious, so taking a tour with local operators puts you in a good position for a dolphin encounter, including swims.

Fishing and Diving

Fishing charters scour the water for salmon and blue cod. To meet the sealife, rather than devour it, the wreck of the Mikhail Lermontov, a Russian cruise ship offers spectacular diving.

The Marlborough Sounds are a maze of mirror-calm channels, deep coves and secluded bays with songbird-filled forest that tickles the water’s edge. Māori mythology suggests that the Sounds are the prows of the sunken waka (canoes) of Aoraki.

COPPERMINE

Coppermine Trail © Virginia Woolf Photography

Trail

GREAT RIDE • COPPERMINE TRAIL

BEST FOR: Wilderness on Nelson’s doorstep: one of New Zealand’s most accessible alpine rides.

BROOK STREET, NELSON ROUND TRIP 4-6 hours

43km

On the map this track loops favourably behind the city’s borders, but some seriously wild surprises lie in wait.

hould you be prone to stopping often to smell the flowers, allow a full day to complete this stunning alpine ride. Otherwise, four to six hours will suffice. Before heading out from central Nelson, allow the good city folk to serve you a cup of their finest coffee; you won’t find a smoother drop. From Nelson i-SITE the full loop is 43km, shortened to 38km if you start

and finish at the Brook St trailhead (as described on the following page). Soon enough you’ll be riding through spectacular hill country via Codgers Mountain Bike Park before joining the old tramway, believed to be New Zealand’s first railway. The terrain then climbs gently through sweetsmelling forest, with head-turning views back towards Nelson and Tasman Bay. Upon arriving at Third

House, 660m above sea level, join the weka for a picnic. As the trail continues to undulate upwards, the landscape takes on an almost lunar-like appearance past Windy Pt (both by name and by nature) to Coppermine Saddle at 878m. The section between here and Maitai Dam can be seriously hair-raising but a side trip to Maitai Caves reveals enchanting grottoes. You’ll need to dismount and walk 30 minutes each way, but it’ll provide some respite from the demanding terrain. The final section follows a bushy ledge skirting the river before dipping back into Nelson. Those with an enviable amount of stamina can return via the slightly harder Maitai Valley Walkway. MUST-D0 – Global conservation starts right here in Nelson. At Natureland, you can say hello to all sorts of characters, from meerkats and porcupines to lemur and iguana, as well as birds native to the region, many of which are on a journey from rehabilitation to their forever home in Abel Tasman National Park.

‘When you mix spectacular scenery with a pristine mountain trail you get an unforgettable experience. Go see for yourself why more than 10,000 people per annum enjoy the trail, making it one of New Zealand’s hottest spots for mountain biking.’ Nelson City Council Mayor, Rachel Reese BROOK ST TO THIRD HOUSE, 11.5KM

The trail begins in the lower reaches of Codgers MTB Park, a fun place to ride with trails to suit most abilities.

GREAT RIDE • COPPERMINE TRAIL

The trail soon joins the old railway, a narrow gauge, horse-drawn operation that is considered New Zealand’s very first railway. It was used to transport chromium copper from hillside mines – hence the name ‘Coppermine’. The old railway line makes for a steady but gentle climb around the flanks of Wooded Peak, aptly named for its cloak of regenerating and mature beech forest. The views back towards Nelson, Tasman Bay and faraway ranges become evermore impressive as you progress. Third House, the basic shelter at 660m above sea level, is an atmospheric place to rest with the possibility of a weka wandering in.

THIRD HOUSE TO COPPERMINE SADDLE, 6KM As the trail undulates upwards, the landscape begins its drastic transformation from bushy to bald, before long ushering riders on to an exposed ridge with stunted mānuka and other hardy plant life. Welcome to the so-called mineral belt, studded with strikingly coloured rocks.

At Windy Pt – which probably will be – the trail continues as singletrack for a couple of kilometres before reaching the trail’s highpoint, Coppermine Saddle (878m). New views of the Maitai Valley and Richmond Ranges are revealed around these parts, which combined with its rugged beauty make it a pretty awesome spot to stop for lunch.

COPPERMINE SADDLE TO MAITAI DAM, 9.6KM

Get ready to rumble, because this is a wild ride of fast-forward, big corners and rock-dodging. Expect watery eyes, white knuckles and an ear-to-ear grin. After recent work to upgrade the descent from the Saddle to Maitai Dam this section shouldn’t present too much of a problem to most grade three riders, it’s a steep gradient to begin with but around three quarters of the way down, the gradient eases and the track undulates towards Maitai Dam. Open stretches of flowing track offer a chance to open up the throttle a bit but be aware that this is a dual-use track, so keep an eye out for walkers After crossing the Maitai South Branch

Bridge, note a left turn onto a walking track signposted to the Maitai Caves. This is a worthwhile side trip if you don’t mind locking your bike to a tree or walking with it for the half an hour each way. The stunning caves are well worth the side-trip.

MAITAI DAM TO BROOK ST, 11KM

The final section of the Coppermine Trail parallels Nelson’s water pipeline on a cruisy, bush-lined trail on a ledge above the river. After around 4km, at Smiths Ford, the trail joins the quiet Maitai Valley Rd. Tired riders can simply follow the road back to Nelson, while those with gas left in the tank can follow the only marginally harder Maitai Valley Walkway – you can follow this all the way back to the i-SITE, or detour into the backstreets to close the loop back to the Brook St trailhead. A map or Google will get you there.

Nelson after Admiral Lord Nelson • 134km W of Picton

Maitai Valley Motor Camp • Spacious, affordable camping • Mountain biking/walks • Dun Mountain Trail • Maitai Caves • Centre of NZ • Walk in the Maitai Valley • Swim in the Maitai • 6min by vehicle to banks, cafés • Pet-friendly Tariff: Power $16pp Non-powered $10pp Cabins/Caravans from $50pp

472 Maitai Valley Rd, Nelson • P: +64 3 548 7729 Email: maitaivalleymc@xtra.co.nz www.maitaivalleymotorcamp.co.nz

TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE Trail

NELSON ROUND TRIP 2-4 days

177km

Breathe in the tonic that is crisp, ocean air along the sparkling shores of Kaiteriteri, or watch a master glassblower manipulate great coils of molten glass; admire an army of grape vines falling into formation or sip the end result: a cool drop of snappy chardonnay. This is one hedonistic ride.

GREAT RIDE • TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL

BEST FOR: Reawakening your senses. This trail looks, tastes and sounds good.

trail with many options, all 177km of it is dipped in art galleries and boutique shops, fruit stalls, cafés, craft beer and wineries. Absorb the rural, urban, coastal and riverside scenery, with delightful forays into Tasman Bay towns. Those looking for short hops and day rides are just as welcome as those after a full-blown, four-day affair. As is common in New Zealand, looking seaward is steeped with reward: from Nelson, it’s not far to the bird-filled Waimea Inlet. As the largest enclosed estuary in the South Island, a wide range of seabirds will enchant. Other highlights include the causeway to Rabbit Island/ Moturoa. Popular for its picnic spots, pine forest and sandy beaches, a pleasant jaunt across the island leads to Ferry Landing. Pop your bike on the boat and enjoy a 200m hop to Māpua, where the cafés and shops are bountiful. Further along the route, the coastal pathway is licked with a salty breeze, while inland settlements such as Brightwater and Wakefield are pretty much paved with wine. For experiences that will arouse your internal fear detector, crossing the swing bridge over Waimea River, and later, spooky Spooners Tunnel will enthral.

BOTH: Tasman’s Great Taste Trail © Virginia Woolf Photography

GREAT RIDE • TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL NELSON TO MĀPUA, 35KM

This section starts at Nelson i-SITE and heads in the direction of adjacent Richmond town via the railway reserve cycleway. After a gentle up-and-over, it exits the central city and follows a waterside pathway between Nelson’s major highway and light industrial area, and the bird-filled Waimea Inlet. As the trail nears Richmond it splits in two, with the right fork leading towards Māpua on a mix of quiet lanes and a stopbank track. It then crosses the Waimea River via a purpose-built suspension bridge. (At Richmond, the straight-ahead option leads to the town centre and further inland via the Wakefield section.) The trail then crosses a causeway to Rabbit Island/Moturoa, a popular recreation area. It’s a pleasant cruise across the island to reach the ferry landing, then it’s just a 200m boat hop to Māpua Wharf.

MĀPUA TO MOTUEKA, 26KM

Having left Māpua via quiet streets, the trail rejoins the shore along Ruby Bay but soon leaves it again to head into rolling hill country. Most folks will find it a comfortable granny-gear climb to a highpoint where there are panoramic views across to the western ranges and big blue of Tasman Bay. There’s plenty of time to take it all in as the trail gradually descends via the aptly named Tasman View Rd. After a few turns left and right along more country roads you’ll arrive at Motueka.

MOTUEKA TO KAITERITERI, 16KM

This section starts with the salt-licked sights of Motueka’s seafront then crosses the impressive Motueka River. The trail then follows pretty country lanes to reach Riwaka where you should keep your eyes peeled for a pie shop, café, brewery and fruit stalls. Riwaka is the junction of the inland trail heading up the Motueka Valley towards Norris Gully. The trail continues through fruity

country to meet a lovely stretch of coastal pathway, at first winding over bridges and boardwalk. A gentle climb reveals stupendous views right across Tasman Bay. An underpass provides safe access to Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park. Riders without much ‘mountain biking’ experience should still enjoy this gently rolling and sweeping route through to Kaiteriteri village. Riders are reminded to be careful as this is single trail with some blind corners and bikers travelling in both directions. Kaiteriteri Beach’s glorious golden sands teem with holidaymakers in summer. The waterfront café is a good spot to take it all in. Various Abel Tasman National Park adventures also start from here.

RICHMOND TO WAKEFIELD, 17KM

This section heads off on an inland tangent, taking in the country settlements of Brightwater and Wakefield. If you are prepared to explore off the trail there are several

wine tasting opportunities here. Rich in history and home to 2000 people, Wakefield is a pleasant place to rest a while or break your journey overnight. Leaving Richmond (bottom Queen St), the trail passes through vineyards to reach Ranzau Rd, then turns a couple of corners to meet Pugh Rd and eventually the Waimea River. An impressive suspension bridge takes you to the other side. Off the bridge, it’s a left turn towards Brightwater, a welcoming place to stop for refreshments before heading onwards. Charlotte Lane then leads riders out of Brightwater, through an underpass, on to Lord Rutherford and Higgins roads and into the heart of Wakefield village via Edward St.

WAKEFIELD TO KOHATU, 25KM

Cross the bridge on Pigeon Valley Rd and turn left to follow the off-road trail beside the Wai-iti River to Hoult Valley Rd. The trail runs alongside the main road (for just over 1km) to Wai-iti domain, re-joining the Wai-iti River on picturesque off-road trail until it reaches Belgrove. Check out the Belgrove Railway Windmill (built 1897) as you pass through town. The trail shadows the road for a while then joins the old Nelson Railway route through pastoral countryside and past Continued on p.83

Continued from p.82

KOHATU TO TAPAWERA, 8KM

The newest section of trail (completed in October 2020) follows the historic railway alignment down the Motueka Valley, with views across hop plantations and farmland to Mt Arthur. Make sure you keep an eye out for remains of 150-yearold stone walls, culverts and bridges as you gradually descent to the village of Tapawera where there is a small railway museum, café and restaurant. Tapawera is also a good place to stay with several accommodation options including, a hotel, motel, cabins and campground.

TAPAWERA TO RIWAKA, 50KM

Tapawera marks the end of the purpose built trail, from here Tasman’s Great Taste Trail follows quiet roads down the Motueka Valley for 50km to Riwaka. Note that there is limited food and drink available along this section so make sure you stock up at the Four Square in Tapawera. Be prepared for a steep climb over Stanley Brook Saddle 6km north of Tapawera then a further 12km to reach the Woodstock Junction where you will turn left and cross the Motueka River before turning right onto West Bank Rd, and down the valley you go. Work is currently underway to bypass the Stanley Brook Saddle by crossing the Motueka River at Tapawera and taking a back road into the Baton Valley to connect with the West Bank Rd at Woodstock. A cycle bridge is under construction across the Baton River – check out the trail website (www.heartofbiking.org.nz) for updates. (You can also head back to Wakefield by turning right from Woodstock onto Dovedale Rd then Pigeon Valley Rd, a journey of 30km.) From the Woodstock Bridge, it’s 27km along the West Bank Rd to Brooklyn. The road is relatively narrow but has light traffic volumes. At Brooklyn, it’s a right turn onto Old Mill Rd, left onto Anderson Rd, straight across Umukuri Rd, on Swamp Rd, and then right into Factory Rd to reach the junction with SH 60 at Riwaka. The cycle trail’s ‘Kaiteriteri to Motueka’ section is across the road.

Nelson

Highlights of the trail • Catching the ferry to Māpua gives this trail a charming point of difference. There is just one ferry crossing every hour. • The lovely little town of Motueka is surrounded by fruit orchards and hop gardens. • Pick your own berries (seasonal) at Tasman Bay Berries in Richmond. Or head straight to the counter and order a real fruit ice cream from December to February. • Take a free tour of Pic’s Peanut Butter World. • Riding through Rabbit Island with ocean on one side and pine forest on the other is a treat. • Tasman, Marlborough and Nelson wine is world-class and make up our largest wine growing area. There are scores of excellent

vineyards. • Spooners Tunnel is the longest rideable railway tunnel in the southern hemisphere. There are no lights but there are reflectors. • Nelson’s cherry blossom trees bloom in September. This is also the month of the annual Cherry Blossom Festival to celebrate the city’s Japanese sister-city, Miyazu. • Visit Nelson Classic Car Museum, a standout attraction with more than 150 mint condition vehicles. Afterwards, grab a bite at the café, the Little Engine eatery. • Watching hand-blown glass art at Nelson’s flamedaisy studio and gallery is almost hypnotic. • Abel Tasman National Park is on the doorstep, where blue water, golden sands and green flora all wait to seduce you.

Abel Tasman National Park © Adobe Stock

after Admiral Lord Nelson • 134km W of Picton

NZ’s best end-to-end cycle trail experiences • Bike hire • Luggage transfers • Itinerary creation by our

Book a free tour

experienced team

0800 22 44 75 • cyclejourneys.co.nz • 117 St Vincent Street, Nelson

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GREAT RIDE • TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL

historic tobacco kilns until it reaches the seriously spectacular Spooners Tunnel. The railway line was in use up until 1955, when its closure was met by major protests. The 1400m-long Spooners Tunnel is now New Zealand’s longest decommissioned rail tunnel. It’s also the sixth-longest pedestrian and cycle tunnel in the world, and the longest in the southern hemisphere. Suffice to say, it’s pretty dark in there, so you’ll need to carry a torch if you want to survey the interior and avoid getting spooked, although we think a spot of spookiness is all part of its charm. A warm layer is also needed as it gets quite cold, particularly in the middle and obviously more so in winter. Another 7km takes you down to Kohatu Junction (passing the Norris Gully car park along the way). This is a good place for refreshments at the Flat Rock Café.

Along the trail

GREAT RIDE • TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL

Richmond: Not far from Nelson, Richmond boasts several vineyards all within a 20km radius. The area is also home to potters, glass blowers, wood turners and metalsmiths. Aniseed Valley, just south of town, is laid-back and lush, perfect for languid walks, barbecues and swimming in the bush reserve.

and is a glorious spot to sit with coffee in the sun.

Wakefield: Get your chops around one of the finest pies in New Zealand at Wakefield Bakery. Some of the architecture in this pretty township dates back to the 1840s including its Anglican church and Post Office.

Motueka: The marina bustles and the Saltwater Baths on the foreshore – filled by the incoming tide – are a local favourite. Also here is the rusty wreck of historic Janie Seddon, while the Gecko Theatre is a quirky picture house with cushions, couches and popcorn served in bowls.

Māpua: Celebrated for its produce, especially smoked seafood, foodies love Māpua. The refurbished wharf is bustling with cafés, boutique shops and galleries

Kaiteriteri: This dazzling beach region is a favourite Kiwi holiday spot. With plenty of sunshine, seclusion and golden sand, you can spend the entire day in or around the water. At day’s end, duck into one of the waterfront restaurants for a sunset dinner.

INSET ABOVE: Motueka Sunday Market © abeltasman.com

Founders Park, Nelson © Tim Cuff

Love Nelson Welcome to the one of the sunniest cities in New Zealand, and where the artistic energy beams just as brightly. Experience the art of glass blowing or learn the traditional skill of Māori bone carving. The Nelson Classic Car Museum is one of Nelson’s most publicised attractions as is Pic’s Peanut Butter World for its Willy Wonka-style experiences. Founders Heritage Park is a replica pioneer village detailing early European settler days, and The Suter Art Gallery is Nelson’s free regional art gallery. For wine aficionados, the region is home to dozens of cellar doors and Nelson is also dubbed New Zealand’s craft beer brewing capital, so fill your glass. For tranquillity, both the Queen’s Gardens and the Miyazu Japanese Gardens offer pure zen.

ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAIL

Awaroa Beach, Abel Tasman National Park © Awaroa Lodge

Boat trips: Full-day catamaran tours depart (and return to) Kaiteriteri Beach, venturing past stunning beaches, fur seal colonies and a handful of deserted islands. Alternatively, amp up the luxe-appeal with an overnight stay aboard a luxury yacht moored at Anchorage Beach. Secret spots: From Anchorage Bay, various short walks lead to pinchyourself places. Undertake the Pitt Head Trail for access to the achingly beautiful Te Pukatea Bay, as well as the crystal-clear Cleopatra’s Pools, complete with natural water slide. Get to Anchorage Bay by hiking from Bark Bay or Mārahau (around 3-4 hours walk) or catch the water taxi from Kaiteriteri Beach.

Motueka

clump of trees with weka (native woodhen) • 46km NW of Nelson on SH 60

Adventures in Abel Tasman National Park Kayaking: There isn’t a Google search out there that doesn’t spit out a kayaking image when you search Abel Tasman National Park. Wildlife encounters are especially fruitful in the Tonga Island Marine Reserve, with most kayaking operators based in Kaiteriteri, Mārahau and Golden Bay. Great walks: The Abel Tasman National Park is well-known for its 60km Great Walk but if you’re starved of time, simply book a water taxi to the

Māpua

abundant • 33km W of Nelson on SH 60

Motueka TOP 10 Holiday Park 0800 668 835 10 Fearon Street, Motueka

motuekatop10.co.nz

The perfect place to stop when riding Tasman’s Great Taste Trail. Motels | Units | Cabins | Sites • Heated Swimming Pool • Spa • Free WiFi • Jumping Pillow • Conference Facilities • Playground • Ticketing agent for all local activities & Abel Tasman • Walking distance to town • Gateway to Abel Tasman • 12km from Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park

Kaiteriteri

misspelling of Kaiteretere (eat on the run) • 13km N of Motueka

Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park sits on forested slopes behind our iconic golden beach. All year round riding and situated a stone’s throw from our accommodation and many delicious food and beverage options.

• With approx 30km of track network, the park offers trails to skill levels – beginner, intermediate and advanced. • The grade 2 EASY RIDER forms part of the Tasman Great Taste Trail cycleway, connecting Kaiteriteri, via Martin Farm Rd, to the Kaiteriteri-Riwaka Rd. • Visit our website for more detailed information and maps.

Nelson New Zealand

www.experiencekaiteriteri.co.nz 85

GREAT RIDE • TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL

Golden Downs Trail: 66km/1 day Links Nelson Lakes National Park with the town of Wakefield and then connects with the Tasman’s Great Taste Trail at Wakefield to form a continuous touring route between the National Park and Nelson city.

most popular sections. Some of the best inland hiking tracks are reached from the Golden Bay side of the park. Try Harwoods Hole (45 minutes one way) or Wainui Falls (1hr 20min return).

THE OLD GHOST ROAD GREAT RIDE • THE OLD GHOST ROAD

BEST FOR: The courageous. This is one demanding but life-affirming adventure.

LYELL to SEDDONVILLE 2-4 days

85km

With ridgelines barely wider than your wheels, Grade 4 terrain and place names such as Suicide Slips – you’ll want to put your brave pants on!

world-class trail that requires some world-class mountain biking skills, or at the very minimum, plenty of experience, this former 19th century gold miners’ road between Lyell and Seddonville has been transformed into a demanding 85km course. Skimming one of the most remote, untouched areas of Aotearoa, the

track often hinges precariously on the mountainside or tumbles down sheer-sided valleys cloaked in vegetation. Your reward for negotiating such a terrain is a series of trail huts in spectacular locations. Days are undoubtedly taxing, although it is possible to do an ‘in-and-out’ overnight ride from either end of the trail, or embark on a single day ride by including

a heli-trip. For those putting in the hard graft, you’ll discover gold-rush relics and debris left by sizeable earthquakes, including two colossal land slips. There’s also the ominous-sounding Boneyard – a field of shattered rocks scattered by seismic forces. Other highlights include emerging above the bush line to greet astounding views, the lofty face of Mt Montgomery – a highpoint of 1280m – and the profoundly beautiful Skyline Ridge. With sheer drops that will leave you delirious, the track eventually (and mercifully) merges into Skyline Steps, where you can dismount to carry your bike. Not much further and you’re on the home run. TOP TIP – Well-facilitated huts are all set in spectacular locations and many have bike tools, gas cookers, crockery and pots.

Old Ghost Road © Gareth Eyres

‘In my mind this is a very, very special trail. Due to its remoteness and grade, it’s not for everyone and you need to pick the weather, but the visionaries behind this trail have given New Zealand a world-class tourism asset.’ Former Chair of Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails Inc. Richard Leggat GREAT RIDE • THE OLD GHOST ROAD

etched out below the hut. It’s a 4km cluster-ruck of rock gardens, tight turns, slippery bits and an energy-sapping pinch to reach the spectacular Skyline Ridge. Just when you think you’re going to fall off the edge of a cliff, you encounter the Skyline Steps – the engineering marvel down which you carry your bike. The run into Stern Valley is a fun, snaking and gravity-assisted affair.

STERN VALLEY HUT TO GOAT CREEK HUT, 14KM

The trail soon enters the Earnest Valley, quite the sight with its soaring peaks, alpine gardens and tarns. Arguably the valley’s most spectacular sight, however, is the Boneyard – a massive field of rocks crushed and scattered by seismic forces. Undeterred, the Old Ghost Road cuts a zigzag track right through the heart of it. Having climbed through the rock garden to Solemn Saddle, the trail now breaks into the headwaters of the Goat Creek catchment, and flows downhill to the Mōkihinui River’s South Branch and Goat Creek Hut.

GOAT CREEK HUT TO SPECIMEN POINT HUT, 11KM

LYELL CAR PARK TO LYELL SADDLE HUT, 18KM

It’s hard to believe it now, but during its 1870–80s heyday Lyell was a thriving gold town lined with shops and pubs. It was then that the building of a road between Lyell and Mōkihinui (near Seddonville) began, with construction starting at both ends. The end of the gold rushes and seemingly impassable terrain spelled the end of the effort, and so the story begins… The trail climbs gently into the thickly forested Lyell Valley via the original dray road, passing

relics of the olden days along the way. It crosses two massive earthquake slips, scrambles through rocky fords, and offers increasingly impressive views as it winds up a total of 765m to Lyell Saddle Hut – 875m above sea level.

LYELL SADDLE HUT TO GHOST LAKE HUT, 12KM

As the trail continues upwards it passes a broken anvil where the original old road builders gave up the ghost. Little did they know that more than a century later a local crew would pick up the gauntlet and cut the track all the way up to the

exposed Lyell Range tops. It’s a bit of a slog through the forest to reach the bush line, but beyond it the world seems to open up to infinity. The trail cuts across the face of Mt Montgomery and a highpoint (1280m), all the while affording truly incredible views. Eyes popped, mind blown, it’s time to descend back through stunted alpine forest to reach Ghost Lake Hut.

GHOST LAKE HUT TO STERN VALLEY HUT, 13KM

Many riders may find themselves somewhat psyched out by the descent

This section weaves through towering podocarp forest with a ferncovered floor and birds twittering here and there. At Mōkihinui Forks – where two branches of the Mōkihinui River meet in a turbulent swirl – a hut provides respite from the sand flies should you wish to take a break. From here, though, it’s only 3km to Specimen Point Hut – a terrific spot for an overnight stop with its grandstand views over the Mōkihinui’s surging white waters.

SPECIMEN POINT HUT TO NORTHERN TRAILHEAD, 17KM Following the old-timer’s trail, this last leg hugs the side of an impressive gorge, crossing bridged streams and the unsettlingly named Suicide Slips, and passing the occasional gold mining relic. The trail finishes on the doorstep of the Rough and Tumble Bush Lodge, where the café is open during the high season and accommodation is available year-round.

ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAILS

Highlights of the trail

GREAT RIDE • THE OLD GHOST ROAD

• The town of Lyell once throbbed with commerce, but it’s hard to imagine such bustle now. With little more than a cemetery left, when gold mining dried up in 1900, Lyell did too. • Lyell Saddle Hut sits 875m above sea level with formidable views. Specimen Point Hut looks over the Mōkihinui’s surging white waters, and Ghost Lake Hut has its own outdoor shower. • Pass gold rush relics and dilapidated huts strewn with bits of crockery. Deserted settlements to look out for include Gibbston, Eight Mile and Seatonville. • You’ll need a head for heights to negotiate the track scratched into the slopes of Rocky Tor. • Heart in your throat moments include Skyline Ridge, the steeply stacked Skyline Steps, bridged streams and the disturbingly named Suicide Slips. • The sign for Heavens Door, shortly before Ghost Lake Hut,

Old Ghost Road Roundabout: 85km/2–3 days A serious adventure for experienced riders, this track joins forces with The Old Ghost Road Trail to form a loop. You’ll delve deep into the mountains and valleys surrounding the Old Ghost Road as well as the bare and desolate Denniston Plateau. Westport to the Old Ghost Road: 17km/1 hour This one-hour ride bridges the gap between Westport and the Old Ghost Road roundabout, and in turn, The Old Ghost Road Trail. It’s a relatively quiet highway which weaves through some very pleasant bucolic landscapes. The mountain views aren’t half bad, either.

presents a stretch of seriously narrow track with stupendous drops. • Ghost Lake is a small, alpine tarn, shrouded in colourful plant life, with a namesake hut. • Earnest Valley houses the Boneyard. Tectonic forces have shaved huge rock boulders off the mountains and scattering the basin with these stoney off-cuts. • In Seddonville, access the popular Charming Creek Walkway. A 10.5km ramble with mining relics, the 25m-high Mangatini Falls and an abandoned mine.

EXPLORE MORE Buller Gorge: Wild but handsome. The West Coast’s largest river, the Buller, weaves between Westport and Murchison. The latter is the self-titled ‘white-water capital of New Zealand’. Natural flame bush walk: Believe it or not, a natural flame has been burning in the forest for a century. Join a four-hour walking and 4WD tour to see this marvel for yourself. Departs twice daily from Murchison. Mountain biking: Drive 40 minutes south of Seddonville for mountain biking at Denniston Plateau. Nine circuit trails are rated Grade 2 and 3.

ABOVE: Cycling the Old Ghost Road © Sven Martin

Westport: Famed for its coal mining past, check out Coaltown Museum and learn all about life underground. Seasoned surfers enjoy Tauranga Bay and Carters Beach that is just five minutes from town while whitebait lovers will want to visit at Labour Weekend for the annual Whitebait Festival. Two Top Westport Trails: Recommended by locals, Kawatiri Coastal Trail and Kawatiri River Trail are two family-friendly walking and cycle trails packed with abundant flora and fauna, history and rugged coastlines.

Seddonville

Murchison

after gold-bearing quartz reefs • 81km SE of Westport on SH 7

99 Waller St, Murchison E: murchison@grandsuites.co.nz

after Westport, Ireland • 104km NE of Greymouth on SH 67

Great pub lunch menu available every day

• 3km from the start of the Old Ghost • Free WiFi available Road Trail • Trails users parking, secure bike storage and bike washing area • Excellent hotel and motel facilities • Restaurant offers the “meanest rare • Near Charming Creek and Chasm Creek walkways ribeye steak” on the Coast

Rated 5 out of 5

1 Queen St, Seddonville • Phone: +64 3 782 1828 • E-mail: info@seddonvillehotel.co.nz

www.seddonvillehotel.co.nz Westport

after Westport, Ireland • 104km NE of Greymouth on SH 67

www.palmcourtwestport.co.nz Luxurious NEW property; mix of Studio, 1-Bedroom, 2-Bedroom and 3-Bedroom units, central location, radiator and underfloor heating, modern sleek kitchens, unlimited FREE WIFI, guest laundry. Tariff: start from $175 Studio

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Reservations: 0800 472 567 306 Palmerston St, Westport

• Sunny location • Walk to shops • Motorcycle & cycle friendly • Free WiFi • Tariff: from $130.00 (2 persons), extra $15 Well-travelled tourists say “the best motel we’ve stayed at”

WEST COAST WILDERNESS Trail

GREYMOUTH

ROSS

4-5 days

133km

Stretching from Greymouth’s historic port to the neat old gold town of Ross, this easy trail takes riders on a journey through the Coast’s incredible natural landscapes, and back in time to Māori pounamu (greenstone) gathering and the glittering gold rush era.

here’s no better way to get up close to the West Coast’s lush rainforest, pristine rivers, tranquil lakes and rugged beaches, with the snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps a truly sublime backdrop – especially in winter, a fabulous time to ride. Easy to reach and to ride, the

spectacular multi-day trail retraces old packhorse tracks, tramlines, railways, water races and historic bridges, linked by flowing singletrack. Many natural wonders are revealed along the way, while small towns and heritage sites offer a chance to delve deep into the region’s fascinating history.

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

BEST FOR: An easy to access and an easy to ride venture into Aotearoa’s green heart.

Lake Kaniere © West Coast Wilderness Trail

Divided up into four roughly equal sections, this trail runs between Greymouth (the West Coast’s ‘big smoke’) and the small old gold town of Ross. We describe it on the following page in that north-to-south direction, but note that it’s equally enjoyable ridden in either direction. With each leg taking around three to five hours, there’s plenty of time to check out attractions and linger in scenic spots along the way; factor in an extra day to dawdle and detour if your itinerary allows. Unique points of interest include the twists and turns of an historic water race, a West Coast Scenic Waterways Cruise in the beautiful Mahinapua Scenic Reserve, a cup of Billy Tea and fireside chat at Trappers Rest and so much more. Accommodation, shuttles and luggage transfers make it easy to ride the whole trail, or experience it on a range of different day trips. TOP TIP – Ask the weather gods for sunshine but expect a compulsory West Coast wet day (or days). On the upside, if anything is going to look good in a downpour, it’s this green beauty.

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

winding through Kumara’s back blocks up to Kapitea Reservoir. Carrying onward, the subsequent Loopline Reservoir features a stoneface dam hand-laid in 1883 by gold miners. A sweeping boardwalk leads to a predominantly bush-lined gravel road section before the trail picks up old water races, logging trams and pack tracks up the valley, passing man-made dams and weirs. The Southern Alps are well and truly in view as you reach Kawhaka Pass and begin the descent through virgin rainforest to reach a suspension bridge stretching across a stunning gorge. The home run continues through more native bush, before arriving at Milltown.

MILLTOWN TO HOKITIKA, 31KM

It’s time for the largely effortless sweep down towards the Arahura River. Emerging from bush into farmland after a few kilometres, the views of the Arahura Valley are quite the reveal. Across the river, the trail follows Milltown Rd for the gentle climb over Pyramid Hill to Lake Kaniere. Heading onward to Hokitika, the historic Kaniere Water Race is a pretty and fun section of trail. It connects with Lake Kaniere Rd, a quiet byway leading to Hokitika. If the skies are clear late in the day, don’t miss an evening ride (or stroll) along the beachfront to Sunset Point.

HOKITIKA TO ROSS, 34KM

GREYMOUTH TO KUMARA, 28KM

A photo stop is obligatory at the flood wall official start/finish gate before heading off along the Grey River flood wall. The river-mouth breakwater is a dramatic spot to reflect on the perilous river mouth and shipwrecks, and enjoy the rugged coastline. From here the trail follows the coast south,

tucked behind flax-lined sand dunes and beside tidal lagoons. A signposted detour at Paroa leads to Shantytown Heritage Park (6.5km return), a major West Coast attraction and a must-visit for the history buff. The trail crosses its first notable river, the Taramakau, then hops onto the historic Kumara Bush Tramway for a delightful wind through regenerating forest and farmland with

some terrific views out over the river. This leg finishes at Kumara’s splendidly restored Theatre Royal Hotel, a fine place for a pub lunch or a memorable overnight stay.

KUMARA TO MILLTOWN VALLEY, 40KM

Smooth terrain with a gentle gradient makes easy work of the 317m climb to Kawhaka Pass, which starts by

An excellent option for beginners and families, this particularly flat section of trail starts by crossing Hokitika Bridge, with the Southern Alps in full view up front. A few kilometres in, a signpost indicates West Coast Scenic Waterways where a boat cruise or kayak trip on Mahināpua Creek can be factored in before continuing onward through impressive forest to meet the intriguing Mananui Tramline that cuts through bush and a historic pocket of exotic forest. Excellent information panels relay stories of Mahināpua’s rich past. From the end of the tramline, the trail follows a rural road to reach the West Coast Treetop Walkway where there’s a canopy tour and café. Beyond that, the trail soon reaches the main highway and follows it a short way to meet the historic Ross rail route. The old railway line is a long and straight haul, broken up with information panels and bridged creeks. It offers ever-changing views of wetlands and farmland backed by the mighty Southern Alps. The restored Totara Bridge (1908) is also a scenic highlight. From there it is a leisurely cruise into Ross, an old goldfields town with an information centre and small museum (where you can try your hand at gold-panning). Complete your ride with a photo in the photo frame south of the centre overlooking the lake.

Highlights of the trail • Nature, anyone? Find scenic reserves, wetland, rainforest, pristine lakes, snow-dipped peaks, rivers, beaches and beautiful waterways, complete with swing bridges.

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

• Hokitika Gorge boasts water that is an astonishing electric blue. You won’t want to leave without crossing the swing bridge to admire dramatic gorge scenery. Located 33km from central Hokitika. • Don’t miss the photo frame overlooking the lake behind the visitor centre at Ross. • The Kaniere Water Race is crystal clear. Listen out for the noise it makes, which is a gentle gurgle. • The Theatre Royal Hotel in Kumara is loved by many. The restaurant has been beautifully restored, and the brand-new standalone cottages are brimming with fetching antique furniture. • Come nightfall, venture a step or two behind the Theatre Royal Hotel to spy glowworms. • Stay at Scenic Waterways and hire their kayaks for a four to eight-hour sojourn on Lake Mahināpua. Alternatively, enjoy a sunset lake cruise aboard the Eco Adventurer. • Arahura River is an important source of pounamu (greenstone) for the local Māori people. Pounamu, glass and other art studios abound.

RIGHT: West Coast Treetop Walk © West Coast Wilderness Trail ABOVE: Hokitika Gorge © West Coast Tourism

Greymouth

at the mouth of the Grey River • 100km S of Westport on SH 6

T ES

C OA S

NZ’s best end-to-end cycle trail experiences • Bike hire • Day rides • Shuttle transfers • Luggage transfers • Itinerary creation by our experienced team

0800 22 44 75 • cyclejourneys.co.nz • 23 Hamilton Street, Hokitika 91

ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAIL Touring the West Coast: 402km/6–8 days

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

Connecting the West Coast Wilderness Trail with Central Otago via Haast Pass and the national highway, this mammoth voyage serves up some dazzling scenery.

ABOVE: Blue Pools, Haast Pass © Adobe Stock RIGHT: West Coast Treetop Walk © West Coast Wilderness Trail

Top things to do on the WEST COAST

1. HIDDEN IN THE TREETOPS Using 450m of steel platform built 20m above the ground, weave in between dense forest, admiring the flora and fauna at West Coast Treetop Walks, then climb the spiraling 40m-high Hokitika Tower.

3. ALL ABOARD FOR SHANTYTOWN Travelling 11km south of Greymouth will take you back in time over 200 years. Shantytown is a recreated gold-rush village with more than 30 authentic buildings, including the original 19th century church and schoolhouse. Enjoy a ride on a vintage steam train, pan for gold, experience a working sawmill, and dress up in olden day costumes.

5. GOLD-COATED GREYMOUTH As the largest town on the West Coast, Greymouth made a name for itself during the coal-mining and gold-rush eras. The History House is a museum packed with relics from

this time, while nearby Brunner Mine Site was a significant mining location with coke ovens, a brick factory and tunnel remnants. Back in town, various jade stone galleries line the main street, and Monteith’s Brewery offers behind-the-scenes tours and pint-pulling. 6. GET IN THE BOAT – OAR ELSE! Not far from Pancake Rocks, located in the Paparoa National Park, spend a few leisurely hours kayaking Pororari River’s rapids and eddies. Nearby operators provide all the equipment and the clean, crystalline

water is surrounded by forested limestone shelves. 7. A WILD WEST SEASIDE TOWN A slower pace of life exists in Hokitika. Wild and rugged, with a moody coastline that meets magnificent mountains, Hokitika Beach is strewn with driftwood. The streets are abuzz with greenstone, glassware and textiles, and the buildings date back to 1860. Walks stretch out in every direction and 33km away, Hokitika Gorge is admired for its milky-blue glacial waters. Pancake Rocks © Adobe Stock

4. CALORIE-FREE PANCAKES Pancake Rocks in Paparoa National Park are – as the name suggests – a formation of rocks that resemble stacked pancakes. Forged 30

Asure Highpark Motor Inn 90 High Street, Greymouth • P: 03 768 4846

Reservations Freephone: 0800 844 846 E: reservations@highpark.co.nz • www.highpark.co.nz

• 11 spacious self-contained groundfloor units; studio, 1-bedroom & 2-bedroom units. • 50+ Sky Guest Select & free WiFi • Guest laundry & BBQ • Opposite Aquatic Centre & Westland Recreation Centre • Continental Breakfast • 5-minute walk to supermarket • 200 metres to restaurant/bar • Charge-back meals available at local restaurants

Asure Gables Motor Lodge 84 High Street, Greymouth • P: 03768 9991 Reservations Freephone: 0800 809 991 E: info@gablesmotorlodge.com • www.gablesmotorlodge.com

• Ground floor, spacious, studio, 1 & 2-bedroom units • 50+ Sky Guest Select & free WiFi • Opposite Aquatic Centre & Westland Recreation Centre • Guest laundry, BBQ & outdoor seating • 5-minute walk to supermarket & 200 metres to restaurant/bar • Continental breakfast avilable • Charge-back meals available at local restaurants

Reservations – online check in: www.asurestay.com

Greymouth Seaside TOP 10 Holiday Park

Easy access to the West Coast Wilderness Trail and the Paparoa Track which includes the Pike29 Memorial Track.

0800 867 104 2 Chesterfield Street, Greymouth top10.co.nz

Motels | Units | Cabins | Sites • Seaview Apartments • Vehicle Storage • Bike Hire • Spa • Shuttle Advice • WiFi • BBQ area

Sundowner Motel Greymouth

14 Smith St, Greymouth Phone: +64 3 768 4666 E: stay@sundowner.co.nz

Reservations:

0800 080 859

www.sundowner.co.nz • 100% Kiwi-owned & operated. Set back from the road: 11 modern studio units, 5 family units, serviced daily. • Free WiFi, guest laundry. Free train transfers. • 5min walk to town, shops, restaurants and bars. Centrally located for all tourist attractions. • Tariff: $125-$160 (2 persons).

First motel at the start of the cycle trail

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

2. GREEN JEWELS GALORE Hokitika is located near a traditional source of pounamu (jade). Crafted jewellery and sculptures are sold here. Watch master carvers at work or have a go at carving your own.

million years ago, when dead marine creatures accumulated on the seabed, compressed and then formed several layers of limestone, they eventually nudged their way to the surface. Today, the pancakes are joined by erupting blowholes and a ferocious surge pool named the Devil’s Cauldron.

okitika is a town of many riches. Founded on a gold rush in 1864, it emerged as a bustling town with a roaring nightlife along its ‘golden mile’. Today, Hokitika retains much of that frontier-town countenance with its wild west features. Though quieter now, there’s still plenty of riches to discover – namely, pounamu.

Hokitika

Hokitika’s coastline is an experience in itself. No visit is complete without a walk along the wild West Coast beach, awash with stories and strewn with driftwood. At the National Kiwi Centre, you can view kiwi rummaging in dimly lit enclosures and see tuatara, native fish and 80- to 100-year-old eels. For panoramic views of the Hokitika Valley and access to displays of the mining heritage of the area, head up to the Rimu Point Lookout at the top of Rimu Hill. The one-hour, 4km loop walk takes you over the Kaniere Bridge. Alternatively, pick up a leaflet from the Hokitika i-SITE and follow the Heritage Trail that loops the perimeter of the township.

ABOVE: Hokitika Beach © Adobe Stock RIGHT: Kiwi at the National Kiwi Centre © West Coast Tourism

Hokitika

to return directly • 40km SW of Greymouth on SH 6

Quiet & Secluded Your comfort is our concern Simon & Jill Robinson

• 12 ground-floor units • Full cooking facilities • 50 metres from the cycle trail • Secure bike storage on request • SKY Guest Select 50+ • Free unlimited fibre WiFi • Guest laundry

Free Phone: 0508 54 94 94 214 Weld Street HOKITIKA 7810 P: +64 3 755 8160 • E: annabellemotel@xtra.co.nz

www.annabellemotel.co.nz

An exhilarating treetop adventure among temperate rainforest giants. Experience life with birds high in the ancient rimu and kamahi tree canopy. Easy access for all to enjoy along a steel platform 20 metres high and over 450 metres long. Come and enjoy a leisurely 45-minute to one-hour stroll.

Freephone: 0508 TREETOPS www.treetopsnz.com 1128 Woodstock-Rimu Rd, Hokitika RD 3 • 15 minutes south of Hokitika Email: bookings@treetopsnz.com

OFF

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

Hokitika is located near a traditional source of pounamu (jade) and there is a range of expertly crafted jewellery and sculptures sold here. The town’s creative spirit is also evident in its interesting art and craft trail.

Expires: Sep 2022

Conditions: This voucher entitles the bearer to $5 off the entry and all-day passes. Not valid with any other discount deals or special offers. (AA)

More mountain biking, please

Gold miners of yesteryear sure knew how to build a longlasting track – perfect for today’s bikers.

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

HOKITIKA: Within rideable distance from downtown Hokitika, Blue Spur combines 32 single track trails. You’ll need advanced skills to negotiate the mix of rough and smooth. GREYMOUTH: Navigate 4WD tracks on the Grade 3 Napoleon Hill mountain bike track. Riders need prior permission from the landowner. Visit www.doc. govt.nz for contact numbers. REEFTON: Kirwans Track,

Reefton Mountain Biking © West Coast Tourism

Carve your own piece at Bonz ‘N’ Stonz Come & create your very own carving out of jade, bone or shell with the help of our master carvers. In our sessions you learn about the significance of carving in Māori culture, carving & designing your own piece to take home.

BIKES, HIRES & REPAIRS ALSO SHUTTLES, ACCESSORIES, CAMPING & SPORTS

16 Hamilton Street, Hokitika, 7810 P: +64 3 755 6504 E: bonznstonzonline@gmail.com

www.bonz-n-stonz.co.nz

Fitzherbert Court Motel Spacious, Modern, Ground-Floor Motels

Blacks Pt and Big River Rd and Hut are all Grade 3+ trails, with some technical sections reaching Grade 5.

33 Tancred St. Hokitika

03 755 8662

www.hokitikasportsworld.co.nz

Hokitika’s Kiwi

HOKITIKA

HOLIDAY PARK AND MOTELS

Hokitika’s newest Holiday Park & Motels... Superior, modern studio, 1 & 2-bedroom units • Spa baths & business facilities available • Central to town centre, airport & beach • Seasonal/corporate rates • FREE WiFi • Secure storage for West Coast Wilderness Trail • Tariff: from $140 (2 guests) 191 Fitzherbert Street, Hokitika • P: +64 3 755 5342 • E: fitzherbert.court@xtra.co.nz FREEPHONE: 0800 77 55 34 • www.fitzherbertcourt.co.nz

• 15min walk to town • Motel self-contained units – studio, 1 & 2-bedroom • Cabin & Powered Sites • Modern amenties block & laundry

• Massive communal area • Bike washdown facility • Lock-up bike storage with charging facilities for E-Bikes • Free WiFi

160 Davie St, Hokitika P +64 3 755 5141 E office@hokikiwihp.co.nz

Freecall reservations: 0800 115 322 www.hokitikakiwiholidaypark.co.nz

raffles, market stalls, vintage bike rides and Can Can girls at the Kumara Gala Day.

Explore more

Lake Mahinapua Part of Mahinapua Scenic Reserve and a stone’s throw from West Coast Treetop Walk, stay at the peaceful DOC campsite, swim in the lake and reconnect with nature. The lakes, creeks and swamps host an array of native trees, fish and birdlife.

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

TOP TIP: Make the most of Mahinapua Scenic Reserve on a West Coast Scenic Waterways Cruise.

Lake Brunner © West Coast Tourism

Ross Home of the Honourable to the English monarchy, melted Roddy. In 1909, New Zealand’s into a tea set and subsequently largest gold nugget was discovered ‘misplaced’! in Ross, weighing in at 2.81 kilogram. Kumara Town Once a bustling A replica of Big Rod sits in the Ross hub of gold-mining activity, now Goldfield’s Information Heritage a popular stop off on the West ReeftonThe mountain biking West Coast Tourism Centre. original was©gifted Coast Wilderness cycling trail. Visit

the Theatre Royal Hotel, the West Coast’s only fully restored gold miners’ hotel; over the road, read about the district’s fascinating history on display panels. In November, you can enjoy good old-fashioned fun in the form of

Hokitika

Ross

to return directly • 40km SW of Greymouth on SH 6

Lake Brunner receives so many tannins from surrounding rainforest, it’s almost black. This makes for startling reflections of the mountains. These glacial waters are a magnet for trout-fishing devotees, boat trippers and outdoor enthusiasts embarking on one of the walks. Lake Kaniere Drive or ride 24km inland from Hokitika for swimming spots, a jetty, biking and walking routes, and secret picnic nooks on this picturesque lake.

to return directly • 40km SW of Greymouth on SH 6

Beachfront Accommodation Ross Beach

• Direct Beach Access • Opposite Glowworm Dell

16 Richards Drive, Hokitika Email: shining@xtra.co.nz

MOTELS & HOLIDAY PARK

0800 744 646

• Small Farmyard with Animals • Apartments, Chalets, Cabins, Powered and Non-Powered Sites • Free WiFi

www.shiningstar.co.nz

Cruise, Stay & Play with us at ‘West Coast Scenic Waterways’ while doing the West Coast Wilderness Trail!

*28km South of Hokitika at the start of the Wilderness Cycle Trail * WiFi * BBQ *Pizza Oven * Bike Hire *Trail Shuttle Service *Car Storage

www.rossbeachtop10.co.nz Accommodation, high-value wetland eco-cruises, freedom kayaking, bike hire, hot tubs and nutritious meals available on site. 389 Ruatapu Road, Hokitika • P: +64 27 4301 777 E: wcscenicwaterways@gmail.com

www.westcoastscenicwaterways.co.nz 96

Shuttle Service Available

MOLESWORTH Muster Trail

BLENHEIM TO HANMER SPRINGS 3-5 days

207km HEARTLAND RIDE • MOLESWORTH MUSTER TRAIL 97

Molesworth Station © Department of Conservation BELOW: Sheep in Awatere Valley © Marlborough NZ

BEST FOR: Delving into the last frontier.

HEARTLAND RIDE • MOLESWORTH MUSTER TRAIL

Venture onto old dirt roads journeying from Blenheim to Hanmer Springs via Molesworth Station, the largest and most remote working farm in New Zealand. You will see more sheep and cattle than civilisation.

ost riders start the 207km trail from Blenheim, taking the Taylor Pass Rd to the Awatere Valley, skirting the banks of both the Awatere River, and later, the Acheron River. Shifting between grassland and hillside, it’s not a technical ride, but at 207km, it’s lengthy. Some of the steeper inclines will give your thighs a good workout, too.

Molesworth sign in Awatere Valley © James Gilmour

To compensate your aches, the scenery astounds. Waterfalls, cirque basins and tarns are etched from glaciers from previous ice ages, while the vegetation, especially in Clarence River Valley is a palette of colour. As you pass into

Marlborough wine country, the route is littered with vineyards. The ride finishes in the exotic spa town of Hanmer Springs, where a replenishing hot pool is exactly what your legs are begging for.

TOP TIP – From Hanmer Springs, why not detour (by approx 35km) on to the Hurunui Trail? This Heartland Ride offers a quieter and safer alternative to SH 1, taking riders from the Pacific Coast to the north of Christchurch over three to four days. Read more on p.104

Highlights of the trail • Campsites such as historic Molesworth Cob Cottage (1866) and Acheron Accommodation House (1862) once served early travellers. • Molesworth Rd is lonely but beautiful. • Passing over Waiau Ferry Bridge which was opened in 1887.

• Enjoy a spot of fishing, bird watching or a splash in one of many swimming holes. • Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa features over 14 mineral pools, waterslides and an indulgent menu of spa treatments. If one visit is not enough, stay overnight at Chalets Motel, a short walk from the pools.

riding the trail Starting in Blenheim, head south from the i-SITE to reach the bridge where you can drop down to the shared walking and cycling path running alongside the Taylor River. Follow the Taylor river Trail south for approximately 8.5km (there are paths both sides and numerous bridges along the way as far as Taylor Dam. Turn right on to Taylor Pass Rd. Stay on this road, which travels up over Taylor Pass and down into the Awatere Valley. Hang a right on to Awatere Valley Rd and follow your nose past some of Marlborough’s famous vineyards all the way up the valley and then through Molesworth Station. Molesworth Station is a working farm, so please keep to the road. Leave gates as you find them and respect stock and property. Approaching Hanmer Springs you’ll come to a three-way junction at the top of Jacks Pass. If you’re keen for more cycling, you could always hang a right here onto the Rainbow Trail, a 112km cycle trail through to St Arnaud – you’ll want to restock supplies in Hanmer first, no doubt. Heading left down Clarence Valley Rd, you’ll enjoy a long downhill into the Hanmer Springs township and the famous hot thermal springs, which will do much to help your recovery.

RAINBOW Trail

ST ARNAUD to HANMER SPRINGS 2-3 days

112km

HEARTLAND RIDE • RAINBOW TRAIL 99

BEST FOR: Head in the clouds; nothing on your mind.

Rainbow Trail BELOW: Rainbow Trail Island Pass BOTH © Gill Wratt

HEARTLAND RIDE • RAINBOW TRAIL

Take on the original stock route between Marlborough and Canterbury by travelling from St Arnaud to Hanmer Springs. Remote and relatively challenging, the higher you climb, the greater the isolation.

TOP TIP – From Hanmer Springs, get to both Kaikōura and Christchurch by detouring (by around 35km) onto the Hurunui Trail Heartland Ride. Alternatively, the 66km Golden Downs Heartland Ride heads south from Nelson Lakes National Park to Wakefield.

he trail starts by winding its way to the Old Rainbow Homestead. There are also two working farms to pass through: Rainbow Station, which is privately owned, and Molesworth Station, managed by the Department of Conservation. Once in the high-country, it’s just you and the natural habitat for company. Cycle past streams, gorges and breathtaking views spanning several high-country lakes. On the last day you’ll arrive in Hanmer Springs, where you can call it a day, or if you’re keen, forge on. Embark on the St James Great Ride or head back to Blenheim via the Molesworth Muster.

Highlights of the trail • St Arnaud is the main gateway to Nelson Lakes National Park where there are two stunning alpine lakes: Rotoiti and Rotoroa. Discover lakeside walking tracks and longer hikes.

• Lake Tennyson is a scenic high-country lake found on the eastern fringe of Nelson Lakes National Park. Isolated and insanely beautiful, it’s ideal for picnics, camping and fishing.

• In winter, the Rainbow Ski Area hosts powder hounds and alpine climbers.

• Ascend into true alpine country. The highest point is Island Saddle, a lofty 1372m.

riding the trail ST ARNAUD TO COLDWATER CREEK, 68KM At the turn-off from the main road, the Rainbow experience really begins. The route takes you up a bush-clad valley to the Rainbow Homestead, where the vista changes as the trail fords a number of streams and crosses a bridge over the Wairau River before entering ‘Hell’s Gate’, a scenic narrow gorge. You’ll find Coldwater Creek campsite just above the gorge and the boundary between Rainbow and Molesworth stations is just a little further on from there.

COLDWATER CREEK TO HANMER SPRINGS, 51KM The turn-off to the Sedgemere Sleepout

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is located just after the trail recrosses the Wairau River – it’s a few hundred metres down a side road off the trail. A short detour past the sleepout car park will provide you with a spectacular view over several high country lakes.

This scenic high-country glacial lake sits in a beautiful, isolated spot at the headwaters of the Clarence River on the eastern fringe of the Nelson Lakes National Park. You can go camping and fishing here.

The track climbs gently into true alpine country to reach the rustic musterers’ shelter, Island Gully Hut. From there it’s another 6km or so in granny-gear to reach the highest point on this route – Island Saddle (1372m) – also the boundary between Marlborough and Canterbury.

Approaching Hanmer Springs there is a three-way intersection before Jacks Pass on the northern side. If you’re keen for more cycling, continue left here on to the Molesworth Muster Trail through to Blenheim. You might want to stop in Hanmer to restock supplies first, though.

Not far from Island Saddle, a further detour (3km) will take you to Lake Tennyson, a scenic lake formed by a glacial moraine dam – an ideal spot for a picnic.

Heading right down Clarence Valley Rd, you’ll enjoy a long downhill into the Hanmer Springs township and a soak in the famous hot thermal springs. NOTE – ACCESS & CAUTIONS Access to Rainbow Rd is seasonal and can be

closed due to heavy rain or fire risk. The best time to ride is when it’s open to public access (from Boxing Day to Easter Monday). While access can be obtained outside of the open period, cyclists are advised against riding this trail during winter or after heavy rainfall. Cycle this route at your own risk – safety is your responsibility. Plan your ride in advance, go well equipped and please respect the rights of the landowner. Access through this land is a privilege, not a right, so please keep to the trail and do not venture on to farmland. Leave gates as you find them and respect stock and property. Be prepared to encounter both livestock and vehicles at any point along the trail.

St James Cycle Trail © Bevan Trielbels

ST JAMES

BELOW: Biking in Hanmer Springs © Hanmer Springs Photography

Cycle Trail

GREAT RIDE • ST JAMES CYCLE TRAIL

PLEASE NOTE: The trail is currently impassable at McArthur Bridge (36km) with no access across the Waiau River. All other elements of the trail are open.

MALING PASS CAR PARK to ST JAMES HOMESTEAD 1-2 days

64km

Wide dirt tracks and expansive grassy flats stretch for as far as the eye can see. The lofty mountain peaks that look touchable are in fact, days of climbing away, and churning rivers cut through the landscape in seeming silence, until you get closer, and the water roars like a storming brigade.

or the fittest of riders, the St James Cycle Trail can be knocked on the head in one day, but it pays to experience the trail over two. Sunrise and sunset in such remote parts is a big bonus, and you’ll get the chance to stay overnight in charming old huts. St James Station was one of New Zealand’s largest high-country farms, dating back to 1862 and there are still a handful of preserved farmers’ buildings to mooch around. Most remnants, however, have been swallowed by golden valleys and beech forest. Along the route you will pass through broad river valleys framed by crinkled mountainside. Rivers lead to hidden lakes and there is much wildlife: herds of wild horses are commonplace and nonchalant rabbits roam defiantly, having long since broken through the 1889 ‘rabbit-proof’ fencing. This ride is challenging in parts, but on a sun-filled day, when the rays beam on golden meadows, it really is perfect.

SEE PP 97, 99 & 104 FOR NEIGHBOURING HEARTLAND RIDES

TOP TIP – Don’t miss the 10-minute detour to Cow Stream hot springs: two naturally heated rock pools bubbling with hot water.

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‘This is a real tourism asset and I have no doubt it will draw thousands of cyclists a year. The landscape is stunning.’ Former Minister of Conservation, Kate Wilkinson

GREAT RIDE • ST JAMES CYCLE TRAIL

down valley over the grassy river flats, passing by Little Lake and Muddy Lakes before arriving at the spectacular Saddle Spur Bridge. A herd of wild horses inhabit this area and can often be seen grazing the river flats.

SADDLE SPUR BRIDGE TO SCOTTIES HUT, 14.5KM PLEASE NOTE: McArthur Bridge is closed and impassable. This is the most challenging section of the trail, with 240m of climbing made all the more testing by some rocky and uneven terrain. Some narrow downhill sections and steep drop-offs require particular care, especially as any uncontrolled dismount may see you plough headlong into thorny matagouri. Having crossed to the river’s western side via the bridge over a stunning rocky gorge, riders are faced with the push over Saddle Spur. Down the other side, the track meanders another 5km or so to Pool Hut – micro-sized and a little bit mousey but well positioned around the middle of the trail. The trail then comes to the McArthur Bridge, which at the time of print, is impassable. There is no access across the Waiau River. When the bridge reopens, you would continue by following an old farm track up a series of terraces before winding steeply to Charlies Saddle. The changing views are to die for; the climb you will survive. An invigorating descent leads to a bridge over the Edwards River and the hunters’ haven, Scotties Hut.

SCOTTIES HUT TO ST JAMES HOMESTEAD, 17KM

MALING CAR PARK TO WAIAU 4WD ROAD END, 12KM

Those with a sense of adventure will feel pretty excited as they head off on the 4WD track into instantly big-hitting vistas. There are glimpses of Lake Tennyson as the trail winds steadily around the foothills of the St James range, climbing 250m over 6km to reach Maling Pass. A pretty big reveal from the highpoint (1308m) grows ever

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greater on the descent, which winds down through alpine tussock and beech forest, and passes an 1889 rabbit-proof fence long-since breached by the bunny brigade. On the floor of the valley, the 4WD track levels out and comes to an end along Waiau River’s east bank.

WAIAU 4WD ROAD END TO SADDLE SPUR BRIDGE, 15.5KM This section of trail starts out on a purpose-built cycle track that soon

emerges into wide river terraces near the junction with the sidetrack to Lake Guyon. It’s well worth riding the extra 20min or so each way (5km in all) to Lake Guyon hut, as it takes in different vantages of the incredibly pretty lake and surrounds. The old hut is also a particularly nice spot for a break from the bike with the opportunity for a cooling dip – even if it’s just a toe. Back on the main trail, riders follow the old stock and farm tracks meandering

A 4WD track leads up the meadowlined Edwards Valley, with the terrain generally smooth save for short stretches of rocky riverbed and four unbridged stream crossings. A worthwhile 10min detour leads to Cow Stream hot springs. The trail makes its final sizeable climb out of the valley to reach Peters Pass, from where an easy downhill run wends down the smaller but no less beautiful Peters Valley. A series of farm fences signals the approach to St James Homestead, which appears straight out of the pages of New Zealand’s high country farming history. Be sure to nosy around the old farm buildings before you leave.

5 Trail Secrets

Highlights of the trail

1. St James’ wild horses are living the dream in the hinterland, standing stoic on the prairie.

• Hanmer Springs is the country’s very own alpine sanctuary and home to the world-class Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa where you can relax, indulge or have fun on the hydroslides. • Career down river on an exhilarating river rafting adventure along the Clarence River. Dazzling scenery make this a 10/10 experience. • Intrepid stays at rough-and-ready highland huts. For the lavish amongst us, a short detour leads to the more luxurious Anne Hut. • The wide and deeply cut Waiau Valley slinks through spectacular mountain ranges. • A noisy gaggle of excitable geese are often spotted around Lake Guyon. • Skinny swing bridges teeter over thrashing rivers. • The fast and fun downhill ride to Ada Homestead is exhilarating and shin-deep river crossings add to the adventure. • Formed after the 1929 Murchison earthquake, detour to the incredible Maruia Falls. • The ascent to the brow of Charlie’s Saddle provides unprecedented views.

ABOVE RIGHT & BELOW: © Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa

Along the Trail LAKE TENNYSON

This is an isolated and beautiful high-country glacial lake in the headwaters of the Clarence River. The lake perimeter (7.5km) can be walked, and there’s also a secluded campsite.

DETOUR: VISIT MARUIA FALLS

A five-minute walk from SH 65, the Maruia Falls are an incredible sight. They were formed following the Murchison earthquake in 1929.

1. SLIP INTO A STUPOR With its scenic mountain setting and frosted alpine peaks, Hanmer Springs is Canadian Rockies meets laid-back New Zealand. Located in the centre of the village, Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa features 12 open-air thermal pools ranging from 28-42°C, as well as sulphur pools, private indoor tubs, a fresh-water pool and waterslides. Spa treatments are the icing on the cake.

4. Cow Stream hot pools are found along the fourth section of the trail, down a 1km side-track and surrounded by dramatic scenery. 5. River crossings This route provides several challenging river crossings, mostly across Edwards River. Do not attempt to cross if the rivers are flooding.

Hanmer Springs

after Canterbury pioneer Thomas Hanmer • 135km N of Christchurch

HANMER SPRINGS:

ways

3. The Ada Homestead consists of the homestead, men’s quarters and implement shed; early colonial-run buildings are constructed from mud and wooden studs.

2. MOUNTAIN BIKING & WALKING If you’re not content on kicking back, climb to the 550m summit of Conical Hill which zigzags skyward through pine trees. Alternatively, the 25km purposebuilt Hanmer Forest network is mountain biking heaven. With tracks for all skill levels, it’s just 10 minutes from the centre of Hanmer Springs town. 3. HIT THE SLOPES Hanmer Springs Ski Area is 17km from town, offering a small, low-key snow experience with a variety of groomed runs, off-piste courses and three ski lifts. You could also venture 40 minutes east of Hanmer Springs to a little-known ski resort called Mt Lyford. The runs cover an elevation range of 1249m to 1750m and welcomes everyone, from total beginners to snow-slicing veterans.

When only the best will do • 10 studio & family apartments (sleeping 2-6), 1 with access facilities • Gas water heating, inverter heat pumps, wifi in all units • Sky Select all channels & flatscreen TV in all units, DVD player & free loan DVD library (750+ titles) • On-site laundry facilities • Private terrace with outside dining facilities, safe on-site parking. • 8 out of 10 units have double-size spa baths • Ideally located for all walking & cycle trails including St James • Secure undercover bicycle storage • Car parking and secure left-luggage facility whilst away on trails • Complimentary Welcome Basket • Tariff: From $190 (2 persons) • Designated smoking area Proudly Kiwi owned and operated by resident proprietors Robert & Rhian Sluggett 121 Argelins Road, Hanmer Springs • Tel: +64 3 315 7211 Email: alpinespringsmotel@xtra.co.nz

www.alpinespringsmotel.co.nz

For extensive information and special options visit our website

The Chalets Motel Listen to the birds – not the neighbours

• Completely separate self-contained chalets set amongst spacious green grounds with stunning mountain views • 1 & 2-bedroom units with full kitchen • FREE WiFi, 50+ SKY channels & DVDs • Your own parking for car, trailer & bikes • Spacious play area, BBQ, laundry • Easy stroll to thermal pools and town centre • Rates from $140

56 Jacks Pass Road, Hanmer Springs Phone: + 64 3 315 7097 Email: reservations@chaletsmotel.co.nz

www.chaletsmotel.co.nz

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GREAT RIDE • ST JAMES CYCLE TRAIL

2. Along the second section, take a short detour to picturesque Lake Guyon for a quick dip.

HURUNUI Trail

KAIKŌURA to CHRISTCHURCH 3-5 days

BEST FOR: Submerging yourself into the rural good life, where every inch of scenery confirms that our countryside is seriously good-looking. HEARTLAND RIDE • HURUNUI TRAIL

South Island’s rural beauty is allconsuming. This is a ride where you’ll stop often; bike stationed before yet another glorious landscape while you pause to appreciate the rolling views.

resh country air, punctured permanently, yet somewhat pleasantly, by the rich smell of farmland, the Hurunui Trail provides a quieter, safer alternative to SH 1, through gorgeous countryside communities laced by large pastoral farms, tussock land, creeks, rivers, vineyards and hilltops crackled with remnants of snow.

Connecting Kaikōura to Canterbury, the trail can be ridden in either direction via a series of low traffic country roads. Cars are infrequent but trundling tractors must be expected. Cattle being moved may also slow your progress, but is there anything more delightfully rural than stopping to watch a farmer work their land?

TOP TIP – If you want more, this trail is conveniently close to the St James Cycle Trail Great Ride, as well as the adjacent Molesworth Muster and Rainbow Trail Heartland Rides.

104

The journey will see you crossing both the Kowhai and Waiau rivers, using a mix of seal and gravel roads over a mostly flat terrain, but with just enough segments of undulated track to allow for some fun slopes. Fling your legs up and re-enact childhood. There is an opportunity just past the small village of Culverden to detour off the trail by 36km to Hanmer Springs. Cyclists feeling the aches of exertion will welcome the hot pools at Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa. Back on the main track, solitude is an expected highlight; sometimes there will be nothing but you, the road and views as far as the eye can see, but keep a look out for ancient landforms chiselled into their new faces by the massive 2016 earthquake, the beautiful vineyards of the Waipara wine region and limestone outcrops along Pyramid Valley Rd. Once in Christchurch, your ride expels its agricultural cloak, and the fizz, pop, whizz of a modern city takes centre stage.

260km

HEARTLAND RIDE • HURUNUI TRAIL

KAIKŌURA TO MT LYFORD VILLAGE, 61KM

The ride starts by crossing the Kōwhai River via a ford and on to SH 70 – also known as the Inland Kaikōura Rd. Entering rolling hill country, the route soon crosses from the Kaikōura District to the Hurunui, climbing several inclines and passing over the Conway River and the historic Doone Station and grave site. The landforms around here still show the effects of the massive November 2016 earthquake, with the road crossing faultlines and scars. From the high point at the Whalesback it is downhill to Mt Lyford Village where the lodge will be a welcome sight.

MT LYFORD VILLAGE TO WAIAU, 22KM

From the village, it’s a downhill run to the farming town of Waiau, the village most damaged by the 2016 earthquake and famous for its country hotel and ice creams.

WAIAU TO CULVERDEN, 30KM

After crossing the Waiau River, the route turns towards the Kaiwara Hills, with some rolling gravel roads before crossing the Amuri Basin to Culverden. Hanmer Springs is a 36km side trip up SH 7/7a. A popular visitor resort for its hot springs, cafés and mountain biking, it is also the gateway to the St James, Rainbow and Molesworth Muster trails.

CULVERDEN TO HURUNUI BRIDGE, 26KM

This largely flat, sealed section leaves Culverden in a westward direction to follow the edge of the Amuri Basin out to Balmoral Station. It then heads back to the Hurunui Bridge, on the south side of which is an historic hotel.

HURUNUI BRIDGE TO WAIKARI TURN OFF, 20KM

Another flat, sealed road section, this starts on SH 7 for 3km before heading off on quiet rural roads through Hawarden and on towards Waikari.

WAIKARI TURN OFF TO AMBERLEY, 45KM

The route turns to the west at Pyramid Valley Rd, famous for its limestone outcrops and winery. The route heads over the hill country of the Waipara Gorge, with 19.5km of gravel riding including several climbs. Care is required due to rural traffic, sheep, tractors, milk tankers among it. Having returned to the sealed road, it’s a picturesque descent to the vineyards of the Waipara wine region, and on to the busy rural town of Amberley. This ride ends here, although plans are underway to extend it through to Christchurch by the end of 2020. In the meantime, riders may continue via public transport or a road riding route of their own choice. continued on p.106

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continued from p.105

Cycle Waimakariri

AMBERLEY TO KAIAPOI, 38KM

HEARTLAND RIDE • HURUNUI TRAIL

After refuelling in Amberley (check out Little Vintage Espresso), head out of town on the gravel path beside the highway before branching inland on Grays Rd. Assuming the weather is fine, follow signs to a dry ford of Kowai Stream (after high levels of rain riders may have to take the wet-weather route). Either way, the route links into the Ashley gravel path, crosses the Ashley/Rahakuri River and then follows the signed bike path to reach the Waimakariri hub-town of Rangiora. Here, there’s a range of cafes, restaurants and supermarkets to choose from. Heading south from Rangiora township, look for the Passchendaele Memorial Path. Opened in 2021, this lovely shared path leads past farmland to Kaiapoi. Upon reaching the Kaiapoi River at the edge of town, the route crosses a small footbridge to Raven Quay and then heads to the centre of town.

KAIAPOI TO CHRISTCHURCH

Leaving the quiet river town of Kaiapoi on Peraki and Vickery Streets, look for the shared path beside Main North Road. At Tram Road, safely cross the mighty Waimakariri River via the new bridge path, and then follow the long, smooth shared path that goes all the way to Christchurch. On the edge of the city, the path turns into Rutland Reserve, and then heads down Rutland Street and other streets all the way to Colombo Street, which takes cyclists right into the centre of Ōtautahi Christchurch. This revitalised city is the South Island’s largest and is a wonderful place to explore on two wheels – navigate your way round with the Christchurch City Council’s cycling maps.

ump on your bike and explore the cycle trails of Waimakariri. This stunning district offers a network of fun, family friendly trails that connects contemporary towns with beautiful braided rivers, wide open sandy beaches and expansive rural landscapes. Wharfedale Track Enjoy this 15km cycle trail that is accessed from the View Hill car park, 14km from Oxford. The track sidles and gently climbs through beech forest to the saddle downhill to the Wharfedale Hut. Rakahuri Trail Keen cyclists will want to give this 18km one-way cycle trail a go. With access from the northern

end of the East Belt in Rangiora, this fun trail runs alongside the Ashley Rakahuri River, farmland and willow trees with pockets of native bush. Tūtaepatu Trail This 5km one-way top cycle trail can be accessed from Kiwi Ave, Waikuku Beach and will take you to a spring-fed freshwater wildlife sanctuary with stunning flora and fauna. Pegasus Trail This 10.5km one way ride will take you through the beach settlement of Pines/Kairaki into the forest to Woodend Beach. ABOVE: Ashley Rakahuri Regional Park © Visit Waimakariri

Highlights of the trail • Get a taste of Hurunui’s backyard situated well away from the state highway and discover plenty of little townships frequented by few. • Gorge on Kaikōura. Famed for its seafood, notably the plump crayfish, cute roadside food shacks such as Nins Bin ensure visitors are well fed. Kaikōura is also a haven for animal lovers, with various whale species, dolphins, albatross and fur seals all taking up residence in the area. Jump on a boat tour to get up close. • Sample the wine varietals in the boutique wine region of Waipara. • Terrace Edge is a delightful family owned vineyard in Waipara, tended purely by hand. As well as exceptional grapes, the vineyard features a 2000-strong grove of olive trees. Enjoy a tasting of eight premium wines, extra virgin olive oil and fresh table olives. • Waiau was the village

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most damaged by the 2016 earthquake and famous for its country hotel and indulgent ice creams. Cosy Mt Lyford Lodge offers food, drink and accommodation. Charming inside and out, the historic Hurunui Hotel has held its licence continuously since 1860 and has maintained its vintage good looks. Nip inside for home brews and good food. Frog Rock found in the middle of Weka Pass is a giant frog-shaped rock surprises – and delights – passing travellers. Spend some time exploring Amberley and the nearby charming towns in the Waimakariri District. Then pay a visit to bustling Christchurch.

Visit Christchurch C

hristchurch, with its beautiful rural hinterland, is as wonderfully innovative, charming and colourful as ever. Explore its many attractions including its numerous incredible gardens, the Avon River, the International Antarctic Centre, the Christchurch Tram and Gondola, The Arts Centre of Christchurch, Orana Wildlife Park and Willowbank Wildlife Reserve. A base for epic adventures or a brilliant place to take in the sights, the Christchurch Adventure Park on the Port Hills caters to all. It features downhill mountain biking tracks, zipline tours, a 1.8km-long chairlift ride to the top of the hill and a fully licensed bar.

HEARTLAND RIDE • HURUNUI TRAIL

WHY YOU ARE ALWAYS WELCOME FIND OUT MORE AT: visitwaimakariri.co.nz

ENQUIRE WITH: Kaiapoi i-SITE info@kaiapoivisitorcentre.co.nz

10 kms of pure New Zealand beaches, 2 conservation areas in the foothills, 2 regional parks, 1 coastal park, wetlands, and lakes all with cycling and walking opportunities. 2 braided rivers perfect for fishing, boating or just having fun. 5 golf courses, 3 farmers markets, 4 art galleries. 2 urban centres, 6 smaller towns, villages, and beach settlements. 70 cafes and dining options. 30 boutique shops.

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Little River Trail

Ride through a changing landscape that’s seen a thousand years of human history, a journey along the route of a 19th century railway line between Hornby and the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it township of Little River.

The trail wanders through the rural hinterland of the Canterbury Plains, skirts past the massive flanks of the ancient volcanoes that make up the beautiful Banks Peninsula, and hugs the shoreline of a vast lagoon, Lake Ellesmere/Te Waihora – a wildlife habitat of international significance because of the birdlife – as well as the smaller Lake Forsyth. Cycling Little River Trail © Christchurch & Canterbury Tourism

Lincoln

You’ll spot plenty of engaging places of interest along the way, including the Motukārara Station, Kaituna

22km SW of Christchurch

Quarry, where there is a short track to the lakeside, and Birdlings Flat, where a return side trip of 2km presents incredible ocean views. Birdlings Flat is also popular among rockhounds as the beach is rich in gemstones, particularly agates. The trail is flat and easy (Grade 2), with a variety of surfaces from asphalt (Christchurch to Lincoln) to hard-packed gravel (Ahuriri to Little River). Most sections are suitable for novice cyclists, families and those seeking an easy cycling experience. There are a number of car parks along the way making the sections very accessible for shorter rides. The only drinking water available is at Waihora Park, so it’s wise to take enough bottled water with you for the duration of your ride. TOP TIP – Little River Campground is conveniently located 20 minutes by bike from Little River itself. A cute and quiet eco-campground, relax here after your ride to the sound of the river and birdsong.

A Wheelie Warm Welcome Awaits you at

Lincoln Motel There is so much to enjoy in

Lincoln Village

Reservations 0800 001 689 • Lockable covered cycle storage • Cycle hose-down area • High-pressure showers & spa baths • New bars, restaurants & cafés • Boutique shopping & supermarket • Lincoln Farmers’ Market every Saturday

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Craig & Colleen welcome you before or after cycling the Little River Trail to stay at the Lincoln Motel. 4-6 Maurice St, Lincoln, Christchurch Ph: +64 3 974 1620 • info@lincolnmotel.co.nz

www.lincolnmotel.co.nz

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HEARTLAND RIDE • HURUNUI TRAIL

he Christchurch to Little River Rail Trail actually starts in Christchurch but from Hornby to Little River the track follows much of the Little River Branch railway line which operated from 1875 until 1967.

Lovely Lincoln Pop into historic Liffey Cottage and Pioneer Hall. The former was built in 1875 and has since been restored into a working man’s cottage. Don’t miss Ōhinetahi Gardens which have been lovingly transformed into a glorious thing of beauty, or for a quick dip, Chamberlains Ford is a nature-made plunge with public barbecues.

Top places in Hurunui scenery, wander through the Cheviot Domain and experience 1850s rural life at Cheviot Museum. Nearby Gore Bay is a holiday hot spot, complete with surf and rock pools.

Hanmer Springs This alpine town has excellent walks, ski fields and its highly

praised Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa.

the hinterland.

Culverden Browse the

town pours some of the area’s best coffee and Little Vintage Espresso serves a particularly good brew. Venture 17km south for the Old School Collective, a boutique retail complex operating out of a former school, complete with florist, gift store and antiques sold from revamped classrooms.

selection of paintings and prints by local artists at Culverden Gallery, with prices that won’t make you eyes water. The gallery has limited opening hours so call ahead.

Waikari Come for the Māori rock drawings found on the Weka Pass Walkway and stay for breathtaking sunsets over

Amberley This relaxed rural

Fresh air, fine food and wine, and truly fabulous views – experience it all on the Waipara Valley Vineyard Trail! Designed for walkers, joggers and cyclists both young and old, the trail passes through historic farms and world-class vineyards. Enjoy unique activities like the Weka Pass Railway and the Greening Waipara Biodiversity trails, and soak up some of the most breath-taking and inspiring scenery New Zealand has to offer. Plan your inspiring Waipara Valley Vineyard Trail adventure today.

45 MINUTES NORTH OF CHRISTCHURCH 109

HEARTLAND RIDE • HURUNUI TRAIL

Cheviot Enjoy coastal

ALPS 2 OCEAN

Cycle Trail GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

BEST FOR: Discovering New Zealand’s staggeringly diverse landscape in one, ultimate trip.

AORAKI MT COOK VILLAGE to ŌAMARU 6 days

306km

Are you ready for pit stops like no other? From picnics under snow-capped mountains to refreshing swims in alpine lakes, things are about to get extraordinary. Currently New Zealand’s longest cycling trail, this one takes you from the Alps to the ocean over six incredible days.

TOP TIP – If you decide to start from Aoraki Mt Cook, a helicopter flight is required to cross the Tasman River after an initial 7km of cycling.

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he trail is split into nine parts ranging from easy to intermediate, so it’s also possible to create a day trip. Alternatively, you could tick off a couple of sections over the course of a weekend. The benefit of making it a multi-day affair is staying at various lodges, motels and cosy B&Bs. Riders can start from either Tekapō or Aoraki Mt Cook from where a mix of sealed road, dirt and grass pathways, as well as smooth and rough shingle make up the route. Tracks wander below chalky-white mountains of Mt Cook National Park, vast open plains such as the Pūkaki Flats, springy forest trail and six expansive lakes, including the phenomenally blue lakes of Pūkaki and Tekapō. You’ll take in the lofty views of Aoraki Mt Cook reflecting in Lake Pūkaki, and a small detour leads to the hoodoo-style rock formations at Clay Cliffs. You’ll climb to the highest point on the trail to marvel at the Mackenzie Basin and enjoy long stretches of fast downhill. This ride also takes in as many small towns, pubs, cafés and vineyards (specifically in Waitaki wine country) as it does natural highlights, so you’re never too far from good food and a yarn with the locals. Your ride concludes when you reach the Pacific Ocean next to Ōamaru.

GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

AORAKI MT COOK TO BRAEMAR RD, 35KM The trail starts at White Horse Hill Campground, 2km north of Aoraki Mt Cook Village, offering riders the chance to soak up the stunning mountain scenery before setting off down a glacier-carved valley. It’s just over 7km to Mt Cook airport where a short helicopter-hop transports bikes and riders across the Tasman River to Tasman Point. Please note there is a charge for the helicopter ride and it must be booked in advance. The trail is a little bit lumpy as it winds alongside the Tasman River’s braided waters, which eventually empty into the turquoise blue

of Lake Pūkaki. After 10km of riverside trail, Jollie Car Park marks the start of a 17km gravel road section to Braemar Rd. If you wish to avoid the helicopter crossing there are several alternative starts: Lake Tekapō, Tekapō B Power Station or Jollie Car Park.

LAKE TEKAPŌ TO TWIZEL, 54KM The trail’s alternative start takes in the striking contrasts of the Mackenzie Country’s turquoise blue lakes and canals, surrounded by golden tussock plains and bound by majestic mountain ranges. Leaving Tekapō township, the trail heads off on gravel tracks past Tekapō A Power Station, and on to the long but rather lovely Tekapō Canal Rd

which is closed to vehicle traffic. The road passes two salmon farms and reaches Tekapō B Power Station. The trail then drops down to Lake Pūkaki and meets Hayman Rd where riders join the Aoraki Mt Cook section of trail following the shoreline to Pūkaki Dam and across the tussock-covered flats to Twizel.

BRAEMAR RD TO TWIZEL, 42KM The trail follows a quiet country road along the eastern shore of Lake Pūkaki, with notable flora and fauna and Tekapō B Power Station among the highlights. All eyes, however, will likely be latched on to Lake Pūkaki and the Southern Alps, all the way down to the bottom of Hayman

Rd where an off-road trail heads towards Pūkaki Dam. After the dam, riders will have their sights set on the laid-back little town of Twizel, an oasis of green streets amidst the desert-like Pūkaki Flats.

TWIZEL TO LAKE ŌHAU LODGE, 38KM The next leg heads out on a pretty country road to reach Loch Cameron at the 6km mark – a great place for a swim if time and temperature are on your side. Just ahead, across the canal bridge, a straight easy pedal leads to the edge of Lake Ōhau. The Ben Ōhau Range dwarfs all and sundry as you follow the lake continued on p.112

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GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

continued from p.111

foreshore across Ōhau Weir and onward along the lake past Lake Ōhau Village to the Lodge. Note: there is no way across Ōhau Weir when it is in flood, so be sure to check this link https://alps2ocean.com/trail-status for updates.

LAKE ŌHAU LODGE TO ŌMARAMA, 45KM

It’s a gentle 6km warm up to Freehold Creek. The next section has a 300m climb to conquer over a generous 5km. The trail then winds through golden meadows and past an historic woolshed before joining the quintessentially rural Quailburn Rd. Checking out the Clay Cliffs is a worthwhile (14km return) side trip off Quailburn Rd if you have time. From the SH 8 junction, Ōmarama (with its soothing outdoor hot tubs) is just a few kilometres away.

ŌMARAMA TO ŌTEMATATA, 35KM

It’s a whole new world after Ōmarama. Over Chain Hills, it’s a big Welcome to the Waitaki Valley with its big blue

Christchurch

hydro lakes and little country towns. This short leg takes riders down to Lake Benmore, along its edge past Pumpkin Point and on to Sailors Cutting Scenic Reserve – a popular boating, fishing and camping spot. From here the trail follows the lakeshore on a scenic route expertly carved into the side of the hill until Benmore Dam is reached. Ōtematata is well worth the visit to restock and replenish.

ŌTEMATATA TO KUROW, 45KM Head back to the Benmore Hydro Dam – the last 800m to the top of the dam is a bit of a grind. From Benmore Dam (New Zealand’s largest earth dam) the trail follows the road along Lake Aviemore (swimming possible) to the Aviemore Dam. The next 16km of newly built trail delivers grand lake and river views and even a ghost town, before arriving in Kurow, notable for locally produced award-winning wines (and Richie McCaw).

KUROW TO DUNTROON, 28KM This section follows a smooth shingle

after Oxford University College, Christ Church • 312km S of Blenheim on SH 1

path down the Waitaki Valley, traversing ancient alluvial plains and crossing three side rivers. This is the heart of Waitaki wine country – taste it where you can. The trail then hugs the highway as it gets closer to Duntroon, taking a minor detour to Takiroa Māori rock art site along the way.

DUNTROON TO ŌAMARU, 54KM It’s just 7km from Duntroon to one of the trail’s strangest sights – the huge limestone boulders scattered across a grassy paddock, aptly named Elephant Rocks although mammoths and even hippos may well be imagined. More limestone oddities crop up as the trail leads onward on- and off-road through bucolic farmland to Rakis Railway Tunnel. The trail then hops on and off the railway line through the dots of Windsor, Enfield and Weston, and on to Ōamaru. The town’s magnificent public gardens are a fine prelude to the grand finale of gargantuan Victoria warehouses overlooking Ōamaru Harbour and the Pacific Ocean.

ABOVE: Little blue penguins, Ōamaru TOP RIGHT: Ōmarama hot pools BOTH: © Waitaki Tourism INSET RIGHT: Milky Way over Lake Tekapō © Adobe Stock

Lake Tekapō

corruption of takapo ‘sleeping mat’ • 105km NW of Timaru on SH 8

Relax and enjoy the comfort and convenience of a fully self-contained holiday home, your ideal cycle tour base. Ph 03 6806607 or visit our website for full list and easy online reservations: www.tekapoholidayhomes.co.nz 112

Highlights of the trail

• Lake Pūkaki affords stunning views of the Aoraki Mt Cook mountain range. • It is a rite of passage to take a dip in the glacially fed Lake Pūkaki. Yes, it’s cold! • At Elephant Rocks, the enormous boulders look like a herd of grey elephants grazing in green pastures. • A slight detour to the unique and immense pinnacles of Clay Cliffs is a must-do.

• Take a break at a local winery in the Waitaki area to sample a superb drop of wine.

• Ōmarama is famed for its indulgent outdoor hot tubs which are surrounded by bucolic views and tussock land. • The Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve is the world’s largest dark sky reserve, so the star gazing in the villages of Tekapō, Twizel and Aoraki Mt Cook is incredible. • Aoraki Mt Cook is a bobby dazzler. Get there in time to watch the sun rising over its ice-white peak.

• Rakis Tunnel is a 500m-long abandoned rail tunnel with no lights. There is an alternative route if that sounds too claustrophobic. • Waimate’s White Horse Walkway Thirty-five minutes from Ōamaru, this two-hour return pathway leads to the White Horse monument of Waimate.

Aoraki / Mt Cook

place of hau (wind) • 175km NW of Ōamaru

14 Greig St, Lake Tekapo E: tekapo@grandsuites.co.nz www.grandsuiteslaketekapo.co.nz

Aoraki Court Mt Cook Village Luxurious new property; mix of Studio, 1-Bedroom and 2-Bedroom units, stunning views of Lake Tekapo, radiator and underfloor heating, modern sleek kitchens, unlimited FREE WiFi, guest laundry.

Opening late

2021

Tariffs start from $250 Studio

www.grandsuiteslaketekapo.co.nz

• Studio & 2-brm luxury units, stunning views of Southern Alps. • Unlimited free WiFi. • King-size beds, kitchen, spa bath units, radiator heating, laundry, free off-street parking.

0800 435 333 Tariff: (2 persons) studio from $205, 2-brm from $250, extra adult $35, child $25.

www.aorakicourt.co.nz 26 Bowen Dr, Mt Cook Village

+64 3 435 1111

info@aorakicourt.co.nz

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GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

• In Twizel, see how salmon is farmed, feed the fish and catch your own at High Country Salmon.

More mountain biking, please LAKE TEKAPŌ GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

GODLEY VALLEY TO RED STAG HUT – 25km one way A 4WD track traces the eastern side of the Godley River Valley. Continue up the Godley Valley on stony river flats to Separation Stream where the track concludes. COWANS HILL – 3.2km circuit This well-formed track sits on the outskirts of Tekapō, just past Lilybank Rd. It is a short circuit track, also used by walkers. TE KAHUI KAUPEKA CONSERVATION PARK – 13km one way Part of Te Araroa, the Richmond Trail meanders along an old glacial terrace. Enjoy dirt single track and bumpy, technical descents.

LAKE PŪKAKI AND TWIZEL TWIZEL RIVER TRAIL – 12km one way A great trip for the entire family, the trail runs parallel to the Twizel River and provides plenty of shaded rest stops and swimming spots. BRAEMAR ROAD TO LANDSLIP CREEK – 10km one way

Ride along the top of what is an ancient glacial terrace, leading to Landslip Creek and public conservation land.

ŌMARAMA WAIREPO KETTLEHOLES – 3.5km one way Drive 14km along Quailburn Rd and you’ll see the signpost for Wairepo

Kettleholes Conservation Area. Lift bikes over the stile to gain access. OTAMATAKOU SCENIC RESERVE – 5km one way A short but striking ride through private farmland that gradually climbs to the Otamatakou Scenic Reserve.

Twizel

named after Twizel Bridge in Northumberland • 161km W of Timaru on SH 8

Free unlimited WiFi

NZ’s best end-to-end cycle trail experiences • Bike hire • Day rides • Shuttle transfers • Luggage transfers • Itinerary creation by our experienced team

0800 22 44 75 • cyclejourneys.co.nz • 3 Benmore Place, Twizel 114

Just utes 5 4 min raki o A m fro k Mt Coo

• Luxury accommodation with 2 access units • Smokefree • King-size beds • Full kitchen facilities • Heating/airconditioning • Soundstop windows • Breakfast available • Guest laundry • Free off-street parking • Free Unlimited WiFi • Tariff: (2 persons) studio from $150, 1-brm $170, 2-brm $190, extra adult $30, child $15 10 Mackenzie Drive, Twizel • Ph: +64 3 435 0274 Res: 0800 227 365 • E: info@thelakesmotel.co.nz

thelakesmotel.co.nz

TOP AORAKI WALKS

Duck into the Aoraki Mt Cook National Park Visitor Centre for information on your upcoming walks. HOOKER VALLEY WALK One of the most popular walks – complete with swing bridges – the Hooker Glacier terminal lake is your prize for a three-hour, mostly flat hike.

MUELLER HUT HIKE A four-hour one-way walk will gift you with jaw dropping views of the Ngakanohi Glacier and Mueller Glacier.

GLENCOE WALK Ideal for families, this 30-minute return walk starts from behind the Hermitage Hotel and presents impressive Hooker Glacier views.

Lake Ōhau

place of hau (wind) • 175km NW of Ōamaru

Omarama TOP 10 Holiday Park

Close to the magic, Omarama TOP 10 is set in the high country of New Zealand’s beautiful South Island.

0800 662 726 1 Omarama Avenue Omarama top10.co.nz

Motels | Units | Cabins | Sites • BBQ Area • Adventure Playground • WiFi • Situated on the A20 • Tour Booking Desk • TV Room • Jumping Pillow • Cart Hire

Kurow

High country lodge on shores of Lake Ohau at base of Ohau Snow Fields & on Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail.

corruption of Kohurau (many mists) • 68km NW of Ōamaru on SH 82

• Aoraki Mt Cook, lake views. • Cycling/fishing/skiing/walking. • 72 rooms including 30 studios. • Restaurant/bar. Weddings/groups. Free WiFi. • Tariff: $276-$388 (2 persons), incl dinner, bed and breakfast.

WWW.OHAU.CO.NZ

Kurow Holiday Park

Relax and explore in our peaceful park

Free call: 0800 142 649

• Choice of tourist flats, cabins

and 3-bedroom shared lodge.

• Fish for trout/salmon in Waitaki River/lakes. Safe swimming, canoeing.

• On Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail. • WiFi available. • Tariff: (2 persons) tourist flats

$110-$120, cabins $50-$65 (linen extra $10pp), lodge $35, power site $38, unpowered $34.

Lake Ohau, North Otago • Ph/Fax: +64 3 438 9885 • Email: reservations@ohau.co.nz

Ōmarama

place of Maru • 115km NE of Dunedin on SH 1

AHURIRI MOTELS

0800 438 945

Kurow Holiday Park, 76 Bledisloe St, Kurow, Otago Phone: +64 3 436 0725 • Email: office@kurowholidaypark.co.nz

www.kurowholidaypark.co.nz

KUROW HOTEL

• 1 4 motel units, studio, 1, 2 & 3-bedroom •A lps 2 Ocean Cycleway at gate • FREE WiFi •L aundry facilities • Guest BBQ •C entral to shops, restaurants and airfield • On-site beautician for guests

The friendly place to stay State Highway 83, Omarama, Otago, New Zealand P: +64 3 438 9451 • F: +64 3 438 9461

BOOK DIRECT FOR THE BEST DEAL

E: ahuririmotels@xtra.co.nz

www.ahuririmotels.co.nz

1880 heritage hotel in town centre • Family-friendly country atmosphere • Clean and tidy with 16 warm, private rooms, 4 with ensuites • Sky TV in bar • On Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail • Garden bar and function room • Free WiFi • Breakfast available • Tariff: $50-$100 (1-2 persons). 55 Bledisloe St, Kurow • P: +64 3 436 0850 • E: kurowhotel@gmail.com

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GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

GOVERNORS BUSH WALK An easy one-hour loop with a gentle climb to the lookout point. Aoraki Mt Cook stands prominently in the background.

Lake Ruataniwha, Twizel © Jack Austin RIGHT: Family on Mt John overlooking Lake Tekapo © Rachel Gillespie LEFT: Steampunk HQ, Ōamaru LEFT INSET: Cucina, Ōamaru BOTH: © Waitaki Tourism

Ōamaru

GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

amaru is a quirky seaside town skirting the Pacific Ocean and the last stop on your Alps 2 Ocean journey, Ōamaru is pleasantly different. It has its own Victorian Precinct complete with old-fashioned shops, and a Victorian Steampunk museum. Whitestone Cheese is both famous and award-winning, so the factory tour is a must-do, and don’t miss the little blue penguins, the world’s smallest.

Duntroon

place of Maru • 115km NE of Dunedin on SH 1

Bikes and e-bikes Shuttles - to and from airports Car hire - Mini bus and cycle trailer hire one way hire to the airport available.

Breakfast – Coffee – Real Fruit Ice Cream Homestyle food & baking made fresh on site Main Street Duntroon – Open 7 Days P: 021 0862 0428 • W: flyingpigcafe.co.nz Ōamaru

place of Maru • 115km NE of Dunedin on SH 1

51 Thames St, Oamaru

P: +64 3 434 8416 • Local 100% family-owned business since 1913. • Full range of cycles, e-bikes & back-up service. • Also provide fishing gear, toys, key cutting and locksmithing service.

www.martynscycles.co.nz 116

• Competitive rates to suit – day and long-term hires. • One-way rentals available to Christchurch, Dunedin, Timaru and Queenstown airport • Open 6 days

1 Argyle Street, Weston, Oamaru • www.hireplus.co.nz P: +64 3 434 5222 • M: +64 27 5345 222 E: admin@hireplus.co.nz • www.alps2oceancycles.co.nz

Top towns along the way

Duntroon: A small farming town situated at the end of the Vanished World driving trail, which winds through some spectacular geological sites. Dig for fossils at the Vanished World Centre and head to Elephant Rocks where huge deposits of limestone rock resemble a herd of elephants.

Twizel: It’s impossible to ever get sick of Twizel’s vistas. An everpresent Aoraki Mt Cook casts its white glow across the skyline, and in autumn, the foliage erupts with a thousand golden hues. Enjoy one of the many picturesque walks, glide across Lake Pūkaki on a 40-minute hovercraft excursion, or if it’s winter, there are four ski fields nearby. Kurow: Sandwiched between river and mountain range in the Waitaki Valley, Kurow is on the doorstep to a handful of hydro lakes and the braided Waitaki River that is one of the country’ best jetboating venues. Lake Tekapō Township: While Lake Tekapō needs little introduction, with its bright turquoise hues, Church of the Good Shepherd and striking purple flowers, the village is

charming in its own right. With a small flurry of cafés, motels and restaurants, it’s not huge, but it perfectly complements the premier attractions. Lake Ōhau: Just as beautiful as the likes of Lake Tekapō but far less known, Lake Ōhau is a vision of pristine blue water and snowy mountains. Make the effort and you’ll likely enjoy the lake alone. If its winter, pay a visit to the Ōhau Skifields. Not the largest ski field in Aotearoa, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in exceptional staff and stunning scenery and the views across Lake Ōhau are exceptional. Lake Pūkaki: There simply isn’t a bad Lake Pūkaki vista. However, both Lake Pūkaki Lookout and Peter’s Lookout provide two of the best, stretching as far as Aoraki Mt Cook on a clear day. While here zip across the lake’s vibrant blue waters on a hovercraft, buy Mt Cook Alpine salmon from the lakefront shop and visit an Alpine lavender farm that serves delicious lavender-based ice cream.

Cycle Shop & Tour Company

The local Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail experts Epic Tours on the A2O Cycle Sales Tours - End of trail repairs www.cycleventures.co.nz Ph: + 64 3 434 5010 4 Wansbeck Street, Oamaru

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GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

Ōmarama: Soak in one of the famous private baths at Hot Tubs Ōmarama. Dotted under a starlit sky and surrounded by nature, submerge in a basin of pure mountain water until your fingers wrinkle. Speaking of which, the nearby Wrinkly Rams is a

sheep shed-cum-restaurant with shearing and sheep dog demonstrations. If you’re an aviation enthusiast, book a scenic flight with one of the town’s glider pilots.

OTAGO CENTRAL Rail Trail GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

BEST FOR: Experiencing New Zealand’s original Great Ride, the one that inspired the entire network.

CLYDE to MIDDLEMARCH 1-5 days

152km

It’s the cycle trail that put many of the South Island’s small, forgotten towns back on the map. By encompassing all that is warm and welcoming about Central Otago, this former railway track provides an incredibly wholesome experience, and one that is largely nurtured by the locals. TOP TIP – Autumn is a fantastic season to undertake this ride, notably for the astounding colours of the foliage which are rich in golden hues, but it’s also an ideal time – temperature wise.

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et ready for some good old southern hospitality. Over the course of five days and 152km, you’ll bank many friendly encounters. All off-road

and with no traffic to contend with, there’s only expansive terrain and self-reliant townships rich in craftmanship. Country cafés serve coffee and home-made cakes, while the wineries celebrate the region’s grape offerings. You can admire the tough grind of a working farm or discover how New Zealand’s worldfamous wool is grown. Open year-round, the trail can be started from either end (Clyde or Middlemarch), or broken into shorter 1-4 day-rides to suit your agenda. The experience is designed to be slow, so you can dismount frequently and consume both the delicious scenery and local flavours. The landscape is crawling with railway stations, tunnels and viaducts, as well as fascinating remnants from the gold rush era, including towns that still feature mud-brick walls and stone buildings. For every charming country pub, there are old-world general stores. If anything, you’ve cycled back in time; yesteryear’s simplicities are both the secret and the seduction of Central Otago.

GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

CLYDE TO CHATTO CREEK, 25KM

Allow plenty of time to explore historic Clyde before you set off. The trail is well signposted from the centre of town. Not long into the journey, it crosses its first railway curiosity – Muttontown Viaduct – one of the trail’s only two wooden trestle bridges without stone abutments. Orchards, vineyards and pasture line the route to Alexandra, the trail’s largest town, from where it heads through old gold diggings and high-country farms – home to the world’s finest merino sheep. Schist outcrops scraggle a landscape cut through by the willow-lined Manuherikia River. This section ends at Chatto Creek where there’s a charming country pub.

CHATTO CREEK TO LAUDER, 19KM

Continue through the irrigated lower Manuherekia Valley before ascending the sweeping S-bend up Tiger Hill. At Ōmakau, riders can detour to Ophir, another charming country town, Ophir boasts well-preserved mud-brick and stone buildings from the gold rush, including the photogenic Post Office. Ride on through Ophir and loop back to Ōmakau via the Daniel O’Connell Bridge. Constructed between 1879 and 1880, this attractive structure is a characteristic example of Central Otago suspension bridges with schist masonry towers. Back at Ōmakau, the trail meanders through a lovely open landscape flanked by the Dunstan and Raggedy ranges. At Lauder,

admire a clutch of rustic old buildings and breathe in the crisp air – said to be some of the purest on the planet.

LAUDER TO ŌTŪRĒHUA, 22.5KM

As you set off on this easy roll through rugged terrain, spare a thought for the 300 workers who took three years to build the two tunnels and two impressive bridges along the way. Manuherikia No.1 Bridge is first up, from where the trail climbs gradually into the stunning Poolburn Gorge to pass through the two tunnels that cut through sheer schist – 201m and 230m long respectively. The trail then crosses the 108m-long Poolburn Viaduct before descending past the old Auripo and Ida Valley stations, and Ida Burn Dam where the ancient sport of curling is played when it freezes over. Ōtūrēhua is a veritable goldmine of local history – don’t miss Hayes Engineering Works & Homestead and the totally eye-popping Gilchrist’s Store. From Ōtūrēhua, it’s possible to take the highly recommended detour to St Bathans – worth visiting for its man-made lake (great for swimming) along with a clutch of historic buildings including a crusty pub. It’s a 20km ride to get there, some reasonable hill climbs en route. Bike back to Ōtūrēhua for a 40km total off trail detour, or rejoin the trail further east at Idaburn, a 39km total off trail detour.

ŌTŪRĒHUA TO RANFURLY, 25.5KM

The latitude line of 45 degrees south is the first notable landmark beyond Ōtūrēhua, follow the intersection with Reefs Rd where a detour may be made to the Golden Progress Mine site and its wooden poppet head. There are splendid views of the Hawkdun and Ida ranges as the trail climbs gently to its high point of 618m above sea level. A little further along is the Wedderburn Goods Shed made famous by lauded landscape artist Grahame Sydney. It’s a good spot for contemplation before the cruise downward across the Māniototo Plains. Before you hit Ranfurly, it’s worth considering a side-trip or overnight stop in Naseby. Around 10km off the trail, Naseby is a little winner with its two lovely old pubs, indoor curling rink, unusual swimming dam and forested MTB trails suitable for all ages. Another 25km on from Naseby is Dansey’s Pass, a one-horse town well off the beaten track, famous for its rustic hotel. Unless you’re super fit and eager, the distance and nature of the terrain make this detour best suited to driving. Back on the main trail, this section ends at the sweet little country town of Ranfurly, notable for its art deco architecture and a smattering of serviceable shops and cafés.

RANFURLY TO HYDE, 32.5KM

This section offers broad views of the Kakanui Mountains and Ida Range as it heads towards Waipīata, where it’s worth cycling up to the historic

Hamilton cemetery for expansive views of the surroundings. As the trail leaves the Māniototo Plain, it skirts the sunken depression where Lake Taieri used to be before it was silted up by gold miners. The trail passes yet another rustic gangers’ shed at Kokonga, then enters the upper Taieri Gorge. This pretty section passes the old Red Dwarf gangers’ hut at Daisybank, and at Tiroiti there’s a well-preserved stone bridge with iron trusses. Further along at Price’s Creek is a notable viaduct followed by a 152m-long, fully bricked tunnel. The trail then enters the open and dramatic country of Strath Taieri Plain. The old gold-mining town of Hyde is a popular place to break the journey.

HYDE TO MIDDLEMARCH, 27.5KM

Check out the Hyde Railway Station before continuing on an easy downhill ride into the Strath Taieri Plain and its many bridges and culverts. Just south of Hyde Station, a memorial cairn commemorates the site of the region’s worst rail disaster in which 21 were killed in 1943. The trail traverses the foothills of the 1400m high Rock and Pillar Range with its huge rocky outcrops, before meandering through the valley’s productive farmland to the Ngāpuna Station site. In the east is the 700m high Taieri Ridge. The trail finally reaches its end at Middlemarch.

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Highlights of the trail

GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

• Breathe in the Central Otago air, said to be some of the purest on the planet, and drink Central Otago wine at one of the many acclaimed cellar doors. • Meet the people of Central Otago and experience authentic southern hospitality. • In Poolburn Gorge, two tunnels cut through sheer schist – an impressive 201m and 230m long respectively. • The town of Naseby is famed for its curling. With both indoor and outdoor rinks, go and give it a whirl (or should that be curl)! • Orchards and vineyards line the track to Alexandra and a cruise on the Clutha River is highly recommended. • Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead is a gold mine of local history in Ōtūrēhua. • Gilchrist’s general store in Ōtūrēhua has original 19th century products on its shelves. • The now iconic Wedderburn Goods Shed was first made famous by landscape artist Grahame Sydney and has since been bolstered by Instagram users. • The town of Ophir features preserved mudbrick and stone buildings from the gold-rush era, including a handsome Post Office. • Ganger sheds freckle the trail. Formerly used by ‘working gangs’ (the men responsible for track maintenance), the sheds provided shelter and a space for ‘smoko’ breaks. • Art deco Ranfurly Following a series of 1930s fires, Ranfurly was rebuilt with all the art deco flare of the era. The town’s art deco walk absorbs much of this grand aesthetic. The Centennial Milk Bar is an iconic art deco building and houses an attractive art gallery. • Lake Dunstan Trail opened in May 2021 and links this trail from Clyde to Cromwell.

Cromwell

after Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector of England • 224km NW of Dunedin

CYCLE TRAIL TRANSFERS AVAILABLE ON REQUEST

• Spacious Studio and family units, 1 and 2-brm. Sleeps from 2-7 persons. • Fully equipped kitchens. • FREE WIFI & 50+ SKY channels. • Pets by arrangement. • Ample off-street parking for large vehicles. • Outdoor swimming pool. BBQ area. Playground.

Alexandra

after Princess Alexandra of Denmark • 191km NW of Dunedin 12 Bantry St, Alexandra Ph/Fax: +64 3 448 7400 Email: stay@alparkviewmotel.co.nz

www.alparkviewmotel.co.nz Reservations: 0800 448 740

Cnr Gair & Barry Ave, Cromwell • P: +64 3 445 0373 • E: cromwellmotel@xtra.co.nz

www.cromwellmotel.co.nz • RESERVATION FREEPHONE 0508 445 0373 FREE WiFi allocation

Clyde

• Central location. Comfortable, ground-floor fully equipped motel/studio, 1 & 2-brm motel units, access unit. • Free gas BBQ, outdoor dining. Extra off-street parking. Free WiFi. • Adjacent to playground/park. Short walk to town centre, RSA, cafés, restaurants • Close to Rail Trail & other cycle trails. • Large secure cycle storage, bikewash facility. • Cycle friendly, knowledgeable hosts who enjoy the trails. • Tariff: $110-$150 (1-2p), extra $20.

after a Scottish general • 221km NW of Dunedin

CALL 0800 BIKE NOW

(245 366)

25 Holloway Street, Clyde Ph: +64 3 449 2228 Email: info@bikeitnow.co.nz

or BOOK ONLINE

BIKE IT NOW! CENTRAL OTAGO

• Bike tours, itinerary planning • Half-day to multi-day hires • E-bike hire and retail specialists • Cycle retail • Clothing and accessories • Central Otago Cycle Trails Specialist

The Personal Touch because it is “all about you!”

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www.bikeitnow.co.nz 1800 446 356 AUS FREEPHONE

Quotes from Clients: “Professional and seamless service for the perfect Otago Rail Trail Holiday” Catherine Callaghan - London “Above and beyond expectations” Claudine N - Auckland

ROOM TO MOVE

• Central to all cycle trails • 6 studios upstairs (some with spa baths) • 4 x 2-brm unit + access unit downstairs. • 50+ SKY Channels • Close to Sports Complex • Great views from studios to the hills

ALEXANDRA HEIGHTS MOTEL

125 Centennial Ave, Alexandra • P: +64 3 448 6366 • Res: 0800 862 539 E: info@alexandraheights.co.nz • www.alexandraheights.co.nz

For every full turn of your spokes, there’s something good to get off for. GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

Stop-offs Alexandra: The town's iconic clockface which overlooks the landscape is enormous. For wine lovers, the region specialises in pinot noir and cellar doors are numerous.

Wander through the inventor's former home, marvelling at his work. The latter, an eclectic general store, opened in 1902 and still looks the same.

Chatto Creek: Duck into the Chatto Creek Tavern and buy some ‘donkey doos’ – a delicious mix of malt biscuits and dried fruit, they’re perfect for kilojoule-burning bikers. Next door is one of New Zealand’s smallest post office. In 1892 it was just a tent insulated with newspapers.

Naseby: Discover two lovely old pubs, ice rinks, curling, an unusual swimming dam, and forested mountain biking trails.

Ranfurly: Well known for its

base of an enormous gorge, Clyde was flooded by the nearby hydro dam, but the surviving town centre was declared an historic precinct.

striking art deco buildings, the Centennial Milk Bar is striking.

Ōmakau: A former mining town in rural countryside, pretty historic buildings are set against Dunstan Mountains. Ōtūrēhua: Small but historic, Ōtūrēhua is home to both the famous Hayes Engineering Works and Gilchrist's Store. The former was established in 1895 by millwright turned engineer, Ernest Hayes.

Middlemarch: Overlooked by

Ōmakau

belonging to a husband & wife • 190km NW of Dunedin

the Rock and Pillar mountain range, find cosy pubs, a salt-water lake and small museum.

Clyde: Cradled in a basin at the

Waipīata: This photogenic dot of a town on the Otago Central Rail Trail is drenched in history; check out its fascinating cemetery. Cromwell: On the shores of Lake Dunstan, this town is an interesting blend of modern and historic and is famous for its summer stone fruit.

Waipīata

after Governor of NZ 1897-1904 • 134km NW of Dunedin on SH 85

Alexandra Holiday Park

Riverside Location

• Groups welcome. Ask about the complex (5 brms, sleeps 29 or Matti Lodge, sleeps 18) • 300 camp sites • Heated ablution block in winter • Cabins, tourist flats, cottages, lodges & family units • Secure bike storage

44 Manuherikia Rd (PO Box 7), Alexandra • Phone: +64 3 448 8297 Email: info@ahp.nz • www.ahp.nz

In 1898 The Waipiata Tavern began construction from mud brick. In 1933 the Tavern was rebuilt as a single storey dwelling after it was destroyed by fire. Today the rail has gone, the tracks have been removed, replaced by thousands of eager cyclists, but the now re-named, Waipiata Country Hotel still stands. The hotel has been refurbished with 6 rooms accommodating 12 people, a public bar, restaurant dining area and private dining room. All this is only 50 paces from the Otago Central Rail Trail...

www.staywaipiata.co.nz 121

GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

Lake Dunstan Trail Some serious engineering has gone into making this a thrilling ride.

Cycle Central Otago

Relax over the crystal clear waters of Lake Dunstan.

Stay a minimum 2 nights and receive a 10% discount.

THE GATE, CROMWELL’S HOSPITALITY & TOURIST CENTRE

Book online at www.heritagehotels.co.nz and use the promo code CYCLE2x10 Subject to availability & valid until 31/10/22 (excludes some peak periods)

Heritage Collection Lake Resort has some of the world’s best cycle trails right on your doorstep. Heritage Collection Lake Resort 15-23 Perriam Place, Pisa Moorings, Cromwell

CALL 0800 BIKE NOW

(245 366)

25 Holloway Street, Clyde Ph: +64 3 449 2228 Email: info@bikeitnow.co.nz

or BOOK ONLINE

www.bikeitnow.co.nz 1800 446 356 AUS FREEPHONE

Harvest Hotel offers 47 recently refurbished, premium rooms. All rooms have breathtaking Central Otago views. Unlimited free WiFi, 24 hr reception, SKY TV, air-conditioning and spacious parking. Direct access to the Lake Dunstan Trail.

The Gate Hospitality & Tourist Centre also includes Five Stags Bar & Restaurant, Forage Information Centre & Café and Super Liquor outlet.

& CONFERENCE CENTRE

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CORNER SH8B & BARRY AVE, CROMWELL 0800 104 451 03 445 1777 info@thegate.nz FREE WIFI

BIKE IT NOW! CENTRAL OTAGO

• Bike tours, itinerary planning • Half-day to multi-day hires • E-bike hire and retail specialists • Cycle retail • Clothing and accessories • Central Otago Cycle Trails Specialist

The Personal Touch because it is “all about you!”

Quotes from Clients: “Professional and seamless service for the perfect Otago Rail Trail Holiday” Catherine Callaghan - London “Above and beyond expectations” Claudine N - Auckland

It delivers a mix of gentle and slightly tough cycling over two memorable days. WHILE IN CROMWELL

Designed to be ridden in full over two days, the Lake Dunstan Trail starts (or finishes) west of Cromwell and features sections that can enjoyed as day rides with many picnic, swim and photo op spots

along the way. There is even a floating coffee shop, Coffee Afloat, to rest up at. The trail traces the edge of the long, skinny lake, ventures up Bannockburn Inlet and winds through Cromwell Gorge. It passes vineyards and olive groves, takes in many pioneering and Māori heritage sites, as well as modern-day marvels including dams, tunnels and bridges. As well as gentle sections, including

along boardwalks, there are some steep climbs and technically challenging switch-backs. All the way, the scenery – with surrounding mountains – is utterly stunning. The other truly memorable marvel of this trail is the infrastructure. Engineering highlights include an ingenious clip-on bridge hanging off a sheer rock face and an 85m-long suspension bridge. The trail ends (or starts) in Clyde’s historic precinct.

GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

his newly opened 55km grade 1-2 ride connects Cromwell to Clyde, extending and complementing two well-established Great Rides – the Otago Central Rail Trail and Roxburgh Gorge Trail.

1992 the construction of Clyde Dam involved the flooding of Cromwell’s historic centre, but a handful of buildings were saved and rebuilt as the Heritage Precinct. This now sits on the banks of Lake Dunstan, with art galleries, specialist shops and, from October to Easter, a lively Sunday market. Lake Dunstan is also a pleasant spot for a refreshing swim. Between the old town and the bridge is a good spot for a dip.

DAY & MULTI DAY RETURN TRIPS FROM QUEENSTOWN

Start your Adventure Here!

OFFERING PACKAGES & BIKE HIRE FOR:

Otago Central Rail Trail Roxburgh Gorge Trail Clutha Gold Trail

Take the stress out of organising your next bike adventure

ALSO OFFERING FANTASTIC

NEW Lake Dunstan Cycle Trail 88 Centennial Avenue, Alexandra Tel: +64 27 369 2624 • Email: info@altitudebikes.co.nz

www.altitude bikes.co.nz

Book your trip with us

021 98 44 77

www.qbikehire.co.nz info@qbikehire.co.nz

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ONWARD TO DUNEDIN Dunedin, 78km further south from Middlemarch, has its fair share of top cycling paths including the 54km Cycle the Loop trail that makes its way around the Otago Harbour.

GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

Ranfurly

after Governor of NZ 1897-1904 • 134km NW of Dunedin on SH 85

RANFURLY HOTEL

ART DECO HOTEL ON THE OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

• Ensuite and Share Facility Rooms • Continental Breakfast Included • Free WiFi • On-site Restaurant, Bottle Store, Sports Bar with TAB, Gaming Lounge and Sky TV • Secure Bicycle Lockup 10 Charlemont Street, Ranfurly, Central Otago • P: +64 3 444 9140 E: ranfurly.hotel@xtra.co.nz • www.ranfurlyhotel.co.nz

Stop-offs Ranfurly: Following a series of 1930s fires, Ranfurly was rebuilt with all the art deco flare of the era. The town’s art deco walk absorbs much of this aesthetic and while the exterior of Centennial Milk Bar attracts most of the attention, it is now an art gallery and stepping inside is a must. The striking retro facade screams of yesteryear and makes for an easily impressive photograph.

Moeraki: This seaside spot is home to the Moeraki Boulders, an all-star line-up with a series of huge spherical stones that reach heights of two metres and assemble on the beach like giant marbles rolled in from the sea. Five minutes’ drive from the famous rocks is Moeraki village, an historically interesting place with an abundance of seafood, wildlife and genuine charm. Also here is internationallyfamous restaurant, Fleur’s Place, right on the waterfront and serving kai moana straight from the sea.

Moeraki

daytime sleep • 74km NE of Dunedin

wedderburn cottages Stay with us at MOERAKI on your cycle trail journey

• Comfortable 1928 farm homestead & 14 attractive, self-contained cottages + miners huts • FREE WIFI • On Central Otago Rail Trail. Under the Hawkdun Range, surrounded by stunning farmland/tussock landscape • Visit the Red Barn for water, toilets, shade, coffee & information.

Ph: +64 3 444 9194 • Mob: +64 27 268 9194 • E: enquiries@wedderburn.net.nz

www.wedderburncottages.co.nz

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• Stunning views & beach frontage • Motel units, tourist flats, cabins, bunkroom (8 people) • Modern facilities, power points & tent sites • WiFi available • Close to penguins, seals, restaurants • Tariff: from (2 persons) $70$160, tent/power sites $40

114 Haven St, Moeraki, Otago • Ph/Fax: +64 3 439 4759 Email: moerakivillageholidaypark@xtra.co.nz www.moerakivillageholidaypark.co.nz Hosts: Kristina & Robbie Mitchell

ROXBURGH GORGE Trail GREAT RIDE • ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL

BEST FOR: An isolated one-day adventure littered with surprises.

ALEXANDRA to ROXBURGH DAM 1 day

34km

Roxburgh Gorge Trail has a somewhat Jekyll and Hyde persona. Depending on the season and the correlating flora, colours and weather, you might experience big blue skies and bonniness or a sulky ashen temperament but it won’t matter which you meet because both are enchanting.

ravelling from Alexandra to Roxburgh (or vice versa) this trail skirts the Clutha Mata-au River, darting between sweeping willows and during springtime, the

heady buds of fragrant thyme. In between soaring river cliffs and desert-like landscape, the route is sprinkled with remnants from the gold-rush era, including schist

huts. These small den-like shelters were built into rockfaces by miners and offer a fascinating peek into the past. Years before these dwellings existed, the pathway was also trodden by early Māori moa hunters trekking from mountains to sea in pursuit of the prize. The earlier sections of the Roxburgh Trail are just a taster of the fascinations to come; between Doctors Pt and Shingle Creek, the track becomes inaccessible and riders are required to fill the missing link with a 45-minute jet-boat ride. Deep inside the gorge are some of the most visually spectacular sights of the trip, and an isolation that many will deem a rare treat these days. Once off the boat, the ride turns into a steady climb out of the gorge, but the impressive views of Roxburgh Hydro Dam will counter the saddle pain. Soon after, Roxburgh Village comes into view, signalling the ride’s conclusion.

TOP TIP – Unless you’re prepared to turn back at Doctors Pt, book your jet-boat ride well in advance.

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riding the trail ALEXANDRA TO DOCTORS POINT, 10KM

GREAT RIDE • ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL

The trail starts at the Clutha Mata-au River near Alexandra’s Blue Bridge. Stranded in the river alongside it are the remaining piers of the original suspension bridge, built in 1882. Weathered relics of a bygone era, these monumental pillars are an apt gateway to the journey ahead. The trail passes through a forest of silver poplars now covering Frenchman’s Point, formerly rich gold deposit workings. It then enters the narrow Roxburgh Gorge, flanked by bluffs up to 350m high. The wide, smooth trail passes Ketts Gully with its massive stacked rock walls, sporting several old rock bivvies and huts. The trail keeps meandering gently towards Butchers Creek, an old gold-mining site. It continues winding through the gorge, climbing a zigzag to access The Narrows, an ancient rock slide where care is required to negotiate the narrower trail section and boardwalk. Doctors Point appears all too soon. This is the pick-up point for the 13km jet-boat trip bridging the missing link. The 45min boat tour down river is a highly memorable way to delve deeper into the gorge’s history.

SHINGLE CREEK JETTY TO ROXBURGH DAM, 11KM

Disembarking at Shingle Creek jetty, riders commence a gentle climb up to Elbow Creek, each bend offering a different view of the river below. The river slows and widens as it forms Lake Roxburgh, the waters of which drive the power station ahead. With pretty islets in the lake and broad views of the surroundings, this is a lovely but quite different stretch of trail. A series of switchbacks lead to a fitting finale, the impressive Roxburgh Hydro Dam lookout. The trail ends at Commissioner’s Flat car park, starting point of the Clutha Gold Trail that can be followed for an additional 9km or so to reach Roxburgh township.

FRUIT-GROWING HUB Taste the exquisite fruits of summer and autumn – cherries, apricots, plums, nectarines, peaches, pears, berries and apples are available at roadside orchard stalls, along with fresh vegetables, preserves and juices.

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Highlights of the trail

• Alexandra is your starting point or finish line. Nip into the small but informative museum and tell the time by the enormous clock on the hill. • Roxburgh Gorge hosts some of the bestpreserved relics of Chinese miners’ rock shelters in Otago. • Pedal past the gorge’s narrow runnels, flanked by cliff bluffs that reach 350m. • The rugged bluffs and rock forms that define this area are home to several interesting birdlife species, including kārearea, our native falcon.

GREAT RIDE • ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL

• Seasonal diversity means that the trail can be bathed in verdant green, autumnal golds, steely greys or the herbaceous colours of ‘spring thyme’ (springtime thyme). • While jet boating on the river, look out for miner’s dwellings, there’s even a little schist hotel and pioneer’s pub to spy. • Enjoy some fun switchbacks that climb gently to a vantage point over Roxburgh Hydro Dam. This concrete beast powers almost 200,000 homes. • Cruise down Clutha River, or take a 12km detour from Alexandra to the bonnie town of Clyde. Many of Clyde’s surviving gold-rush buildings have been carefully restored. • Scenic Lake Roxburgh offers kayaking tours and is flush with brown and rainbow trout.

Clyde

after a Scottish general • 86km E of Queenstown

Roxburgh

CALL 0800 BIKE NOW

after an ancient town in Scotland • 150km NW of Dunedin

(245 366)

25 Holloway Street, Clyde Ph: +64 3 449 2228 Email: info@bikeitnow.co.nz

or BOOK ONLINE

141 Roxburgh East Rd, Roxburgh Ph: +64 3 446 8364 • Mob: +64 27 203 7061 Email: cluthagoldcottages@xtra.co.nz

www.bikeitnow.co.nz 1800 446 356 AUS FREEPHONE

www.cluthagoldcottages.co.nz

FREE WiFi

• Ideal accommodation base for the Clutha Gold & Roxburgh Gorge trails. Easy access to the cycle trails • 1 & 2 brm s/c cottages $130$140 (1-2p), large house sleeps 11 – POA, camping $15pp & motorhomes $35 per night (1-2p) • Undercover storage, bike wash, kids’ pool/play areas

BIKE IT NOW! CENTRAL OTAGO

• Bike tours, itinerary planning • Half-day to multi-day hires • E-bike hire and retail specialists • Cycle retail • Clothing and accessories • Central Otago Cycle Trails Specialist

Quotes from Clients: “Roxburgh Gorge was a magical day out” Liffy Springs “Spectacular location, awesome experience” Rebecca Cohn, Brisbane

The Personal Touch because it is “all about you!”

Ōmakau

belonging to a husband & wife • 190km NW of Dunedin

WHERE THE TWO TRAILS MEET! Clutha Gold Trail & Roxburgh Gorge Trail

• Ideally located accommodation with 11 studios and suites • Garden restaurant with licensed bar (craft beers & Central Otago wines) • Breakfast, a la carte dinner, espresso coffee, packed lunches available • All inclusive 2/3/4-night cycling packages • 50+ SKY TV channels and free unlimited Wi-Fi • Low season rates and group discounts

www.lakeroxburghlodge.co.nz

20A Tamblyn Dr, Lake Roxburgh Ph: +64 3 446 8220 Email: stay@lakeroxburghlodge.co.nz

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CLUTHA GOLD Trail

WATCH THIS SPACE A new section of the Clutha Gold Great Ride Cycle Trail is underway, to expand the length from 73km to a total of 136km. The addition will run from Lawrence to Waihola via Milton. BOTH IMAGES: Clutha Gold Trail © www.cluthanz.com

GREAT RIDE • CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL

BEST FOR: Couples or groups with conflicting interests – this one ticks a lot of boxes.

LAKE ROXBURGH DAM to LAWRENCE 73km

2 days

Whether you’re adventurous, a naturelover, history-buff or science seeker, this trail keeps every cyclist smiling.

TOP TIP – Pack a head torch. Big Hill Tunnel is found on the last 20km stretch of the trail and measures a whopping 440m in length.

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here are Māori moa hunting and gold-rush stories for the historians; great feats of engineering for the perpetually

intrigued, and between the countryside and rumbling Clutha Mata-au River (hello nature-lovers), a bounty of farming and fruit orchards to elate the foodies. The Clutha Gold Trail officially starts at Roxburgh Dam and finishes in Lawrence: Otago’s first gold-rush town after Gabriel Read discovered the precious metal in 1861. Speed demons could complete the trail in one day, but two days allows for an overnight stay somewhere seriously gorgeous. If you’d prefer to experience just a segment of the track, the four main villages to weave between are Roxburgh, Millers Flat, Beaumont and Lawrence. Rich in folklore, there are a handful of information boards along the route that detail days gone by, including 19th century gold fever. These days, ‘golden’ finds are more likely to include native kōwhai trees, with their signature yellow flowers, and Roxburgh apricots, said to be the tastiest in the world. The track eventually ambles into Lawrence, where local hosts welcome guests inside – and pour large drops of world-class wine.

COMMISSIONER FLAT (ROXBURGH DAM) TO ROXBURGH, 9KM

The Clutha Gold Trail begins below the Roxburgh Dam, which is New Zealand’s biggest gravity-fed dam. The trail follows the gentle bends of the blue Clutha Mata-au, with the bald peaks of the Old Man Range and Benger Ranges a dramatic backdrop. It’s not far to the atmospheric little town of Roxburgh, famous for fruit orchards that serve up a splash of colour in every season. Roxburgh is also the home of Jimmy’s Pie Shop, another way to taste local flavours.

ROXBURGH TO MILLERS FLAT, 20KM

MILLERS FLAT TO BEAUMONT, 25KM

Continuing down the valley, the trail returns to the riverside and heads through the Beaumont Gorge on a mix of quiet roads and railway line spliced together with a custom-built cycle path. It’s well worth taking a couple of short detours signposted off the trail around here. The first is Horseshoe Bend Bridge, an impressive pedestrian suspension bridge built in 1913. The second, nearby, are the Lonely Graves – humble testament to the kindness of strangers. The trail emerges at the highway, across the other side of which is the Beaumont Hotel where you can stop for refreshments.

BEAUMONT TO LAWRENCE, 19KM

More mountain biking, please Look no further than Alexandra for an exhilarating mountain biking experience. HAWKSBURN RD: A mix of 4WD gravel roads and tarseal, with some steep ascents and vast open spaces for the fit and fast. The route covers a 25km stretch between Clyde and Bannockburn.

FLAT TOP HILL: One of Otago’s newest mountain biking areas. There are varied options for different skill levels, including a 10km loop from Butchers Dam and a demanding Roxburgh Gorge descent. OLD MAN RANGE: This 39km trail boasts steep inclines and gnarly downhills. Expertise is needed for the rutted and rocky parts of 4WD track.

The last leg of this trail climbs gently along the old railway line to the highest point of the trail, Big Hill Tunnel. After a 440m pedal through the dark, the trail sets off on its final sweep down to Lawrence. Lush farmland surrounds the route, which crosses the highway several times on its way through Evans Flat with its bygone vibe of early industry – gold mining, flax milling and pioneer sheep farming. The trail ends at Lawrence. On its outskirts, the trail passes an historic camp where up to 120 Chinese miners lived in the 1860s, but there is plenty more evidence of the town’s heyday. A pleasant stroll can be enjoyed through the streets of Lawrence, where country cafés wait to lure you in with hot pies and lamingtons. If you have the time and energy, venture into Gabriel’s Gully (6km return), a peaceful reserve where stories of the first gold discoveries are retold.

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GREAT RIDE • CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL

There are new scenes around every bend as the trail meanders along the river’s edge. Pinders Pond, 5km from Roxburgh, is a pleasant place to pause for a while, and offers safe swimming in the otherwise treacherous Clutha Mata-au. Towards the end of this section, the trail cuts across pastoral farmland to reach Miller’s Flat. This wee town offers visitors dining in both a café and pub, along with a handful of accommodation options.

GREAT RIDE • CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL

Explore more Highlights of the trail • Stone fruit worth writing home about. Drop into the many orchards and tuck in. • New Zealand’s endangered native falcon, the karearea calls Otago home but there are only approximately 3000 nesting pairs remaining. They are also one of the world’s fastest birds, so you’ll need a sharp eye. • Roxburgh dam is a big, commanding presence on the river. Whether you find dams an eyesore or a marvel, there’s no missing this behemoth. • Pinders Pond is a scenic reservoir, perfect for a picnic or quick dip. It might look serene now, but the pond was originally hand dug by a gold-mining giant using an hydraulic elevator to uncover gold. • Cycle across Horseshoe Bend Bridge. Built in 1913, the 70m-long timber bridge is one of the few reminders that Horseshoe Bend was once a booming gold-mining community. • Bite into one of Roxburgh’s plump apricots or sweet juicy cherries. Cherries are ripe at Christmas until January and apricots in January. • Evans Flat is an interesting stretch of land, if only for its two former dwellers, George and Helen Munro. The couple arrived here from Scotland in 1857. Upon hearing about Gabriel Read’s momentous 1861 gold find, Helen set about finding her own, with nothing but a dish and butcher’s knife. She came up trumps – unearthing 18 ounces of pure gold just nine metres from their hut. Now called Munro’s Gully. • Big Hill Tunnel is the only tunnel on your journey but at 440m, it's a jolly large one.

From Lawrence, join the coveted Southern Scenic Route – a ‘road less travelled’, where deserted beaches, rainforest, pristine lakes and mountains all feature. The Clutha River runs through the town of Balclutha. Further south is the wild Catlins, with sweeping beaches and spectacular cliffs. A ‘must-stop’ is Curio Bay where, at low tide, a petrified forest is exposed on a rock shelf. Curio Bay’s Tumu Toka CurioScape is a worldclass interactive heritage centre and also well worth a visit.

walk through beech forest to the magnificent three-tier Purakaunui Falls. Invercargill is a city with a strong Scottish heritage. It’s also home to the country’s largest collection of tuatara. Bluff, 25 minutes south of here, is famed for its Bluff oyster and where the one-hour ferry departs to Stewart Island Rakiura. From Bluff, the route also heads towards Te Anau and onto Queenstown, where it concludes.

Nugget Pt, with its picturesque lighthouse, is where you’ll find seals, sea lions and a gannet colony. Stop at Porpoise Bay – rare Hector’s dolphins often swim close to the beach. Just north of Papatōwai,

Lawrence

Clyde

after Sir Henry Lawrence • 92km W of Dunedin on SH 8

after a Scottish general • 86km E of Queenstown

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From the trail’s end at Lawrence, it’s a 30-minute drive to join SH 1 and the Southern Scenic Route – an exciting, wild road trip from the coast to Queenstown.

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THE QUEENSTOWN

Trail

QUEENSTOWN to QUEENSTOWN 1-4 days

130km

Queenstown’s best hop-on, hop-off experience – by bike! Ridden as a multi-day adventure with overnight stops along the way, or by tailored day rides. Edgar Bridge, Queenstown Trail © Destination Queenstown

GREAT RIDE • THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL

BEST FOR: A trail that is as much about the sights as it is the cycling.

ost of the Queenstown Trail is ideal for beginners, families or those who haven’t seen a bike in a while. The trail hugs the Wakatipu lakeshore through to Frankton, passing shorefront hotels such as the Hilton (stopping for a chilled drink at its open-fire Pinot Pit is idyllic), golf courses, dazzling mountain views and blooming gardens. For those after something more challenging, the Jack’s Point section is an enjoyable add-on but not for the faint-hearted. Comprised of some steep climbs, fast descents and tight bends, dropping back down to Lake Wakatipu is the only way to regulate your heartbeat. Your journey could stretch as far as Gibbston and historic Arrowtown, during a section that includes the 80m Edgar Suspension Bridge, jet boats frothing up the Kawarau River and deep canyons filled with turquoise water. Stop at the famous Kawarau Suspension Bridge: the world’s first commercial bungy jump. Once in the Gibbston region, the heart of pinot noir country, make a beeline for its world-class wineries. Shuttle services are available to transport you home – or simply jump on the bus.

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GREAT RIDE • THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL FRANKTON TRACK & KELVIN PENINSULA TRAIL, 15KM The perfect ride for novices, families or those of questionable fitness, this ride offers varying viewpoints around Lake Wakatipu, with a dramatic back-drop of the Remarkables and surrounding ranges. Starting at Queenstown’s colourful municipal gardens, it also offers plenty of places to stop for rest and refreshments. The trail hugs the lakeshore through to Frankton where it passes the marina and crosses the picturesque Kawarau Falls bridge. Just across the bridge, the Hilton Hotel is a good place to turn back for the return ride, or riders can continue skirting the shore all the way to Queenstown Golf Club from where the additional Kelvin Peninsula Loop offers even more views as well as notable trail-side sculptures. The welcoming golf club café is a lovely place to wait for a shuttle pick-up.

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JACK’S POINT TRAIL, 12KM Eager riders can add this on to the Kelvin Peninsula Trail, or start it from nearby Jardine Park where there’s ample car parking and a neat loop track for the kids to practice on. This ride is not for the faint-hearted, with some steep climbs, fast descents, and tight bends. Older children with a head for heights should have no trouble completing it. The trail traces an undulating route through the tussock and schist of Lake Wakatipu’s eastern edge, with spectacular views across to iconic Walter and Cecil Peaks. The final climb up and over Jack’s Point Golf Course delivers riders to the door of its super-stylish restaurant and bar – perfectly positioned for a well-earned long lunch before catching a ride back to town or returning via the same route.

LAKE HAYES TRAIL, 8KM No visit to Queenstown is complete without seeing New Zealand’s mostphotographed lake with its kaleidoscopic colours and exquisite mountain vistas, lying in the heart of the Wakatipu Basin and easily accessible from Queenstown, Arrowtown and Gibbston. A lovely jaunt in itself, this short loop can also be added into longer adventures including the Arrow River Bridges or Gibbston River trails. It’s also just a short ride away from Amisfield Winery & Bistro, offering the chance to factor even more local flavour into this quintessential Queenstown experience.

ARROW RIVER BRIDGES TRAIL, 16KM Gold rush-era Arrowtown is the starting point for this delightful ride taking in an interesting mix of bridges – with the purpose-built, 80m-long Edgar Suspension Bridge a highlight – as well as country lanes and old byways. It ends at the gateway wine-soaked Gibbston and the start of the Gibbston River Trail. The views are ever-changing as the trail meanders along the Arrow River – tumbling in some places, tranquil in others, and eventually spilling out into the Kawarau Gorge. This leisurely journey ends at the historic Kawarau Bridge, the world’s original bungy jump site where brave souls can swap their helmet for a harness and go for glory. A calming glass of wine can be enjoyed at the wineries nearby.

GIBBSTON RIVER TRAIL, 9KM This easy meander is a great way to visit the wineries lining the ‘Valley of the Vines’ while soaking up its famously spectacular scenery. Fit riders should consider combining it with the Arrow River Bridges Trail or another Queenstown Trail for a big day out, while Gibbston-based bike hire and good shuttle connections make it easy to tailor tours to suit everyone – or just jump on a bus home if you run out of puff. The trail stretches for 9km between AJ Hackett Bungy at Kawarau Bridge, through to the Kinross Cottages tasting

room. In between are iconic Central Otago wineries such as Peregrine and Gibbston Valley, the latter perennially popular for its cellar door restaurant and wine-cave tours (with a bike hire depot, too). The Gibbston Tavern is also a highlight with its rustic vibe and beer garden.

TWIN RIVERS TRAIL, 18.5KM This Intermediate trail starts from Kawarau Falls Bridge and takes you to Morven Ferry Rd via Lake Hayes Estate. This trail will show you Queenstown like you’ve never experienced before. Off the beaten track you’ll discover the remote and rugged landscapes, glorious vistas down the aquamarine Kawarau River and some of the best picnic and fishing spots on the trail.

COUNTRYSIDE RIDE, 13.5KM This ride starts at the Arrowtown River car park and takes you to the Shotover Bridge where you can turn around and head back to Arrowtown. You’ll enjoy quiet country lanes and trails that will reveal breathtaking homes, gardens and architecture, tree-lined avenues, historic galleries and rustic cafés. Here, the magnificent colours of the South Island come to life. Reward yourself with a stop in at fabulous Millbrook Resort which offers a super café, restaurant, bars, pro-shop and golf courses and of course the Day Spa, not to mention fabulous accommodation.

Highlights of the trail • Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge debuted in 1880 but it wasn’t until 1988 that Bungy pioneers AJ Hackett and Henry van Asch created the world’s first commercially operated bungy jumping site here. Stop and watch the jumpers before cycling over it.

• Climbing Thompson’s Hill will burn, but the payoff is spectacular views downriver. • You’ll need a good head for heights to cross Edgar Suspension Bridge. At 80m long and with the Arrow Gorge roaring below, the views are stunning, if a little scary. • Listen for the growl of encroaching jet boats as they carve up Kawarau River. • Lake Wakatipu and Coronet, Cecil and Walter Peaks are all standout landmarks.

• Thrillseekers are spoilt for choice. The Nevis Bungy is the highest jump in the southern hemisphere, the 150km/hr canyon swing will toss you upside down and if you’re over 75, AJ Hackett bungy jumps are free!

GREAT RIDE • THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL

• Once a traffic bridge, Lower Shotover Bridge now provides cyclists with 360-degree vistas of the Shotover River.

• Off the saddle, climb to the top of Bob’s Peak on a one-hour hike, or take the Skyline Gondola. The views are stunning, and Queenstown’s go kart-style luge will be there, begging you to take a ride.

• Queenstown & Central Otago Wine – you’re in the very thick of wine country so make sure you combine your ride with vineyard stops. • Gibbston Valley winery is the place to get to grips with the region’s wine. Pop in for tastings and lunch at the Lodge restaurant, or pick up a treat from the on-site cheesery and deli.

Queenstown

283km NW of Dunedin on SH 6

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DON’T MISS…

GREAT RIDE • THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL

LAKE HAYES

Cromwell: Wander around the original mason buildings in Cromwell’s Heritage Precinct and nip into a handful of boutique stores and coffee shops. Descend on Lake Dunstan for sailing, swimming and fishing. In winter, there are five ski fields and in summer, the roads are lined with fresh fruit stalls. Arrowtown: Dressed to impress Wanaka: Exceptional lake views are a standout on the four-hour return hike to Roys Peak; ’That Wanaka Tree’ is as Insta famous as a Kardashian, and this is one of only a few places in New Zealand to host a year-round market, on every Thursday. If you’re a daredevil, Skydive Wanaka will put Aoraki Mt Cook in your peripheral, and

Wild Wire Wanaka has the highest waterfall cable climb in the world.

Gibbston District: Part of the Queenstown and Central Otago wine region, enjoy a setting of snow-capped mountains, deep river gorges and beautiful valleys. It’s also where some of the best wine in the world is made, pinot noir being responsible for most of the buzz.

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in deciduous trees and historic buildings, Arrowtown maintains its handsome features from a bygone era. Top biking trails in and around the Wakatipu Basin link Arrowtown to neighbouring towns, and there are a handful of scenic walks.

Clyde: With a perfectly preserved old town, Clyde enjoys an historic centre surrounded by neat farmland. Dine inside the original stone walls of

Nicknamed the ‘Mirror Lake’, the glassy waters of Lake Hayes is just a four-minute drive from Arrowtown. The water reflects its snow-capped mountain surrounds in astonishing clarity – it’ll have you taking snap after snap.

gold miners’ buildings including the old bank which is now a delightful café. Marvel at Clyde Dam from lofty viewpoints or walk the 11.5km Millennium Track to Alexandra,

Alexandra: Discover more about this town’s gold-mining history at the Central Stories Museum. Come summer, local apricots, peaches, cherries and apples fill the orchards and when the winter brings sub-zero temperatures, Manorburn Dam transforms into an ice rink. Sip & cycle through the vines on this unique ebike Queenstown winery tour. Our purposebuilt ebikes have inbuilt cruise control so you can relax and enjoy the scenery of Arrowtown and the Gibbston Valley.

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EXPLORE MORE IN ARROWTOWN

As one of New Zealand’s most pleasantly old-fashioned townships, Arrowtown is deliciously quaint. Steeped in history, this preserved gold-rush settlement is tonic for the soul. SLEEPY STREETS Buckingham St is lined by trees and pretty heritage buildings built from stone. Inside you’ll find boutique gift shops, cafés and surprising art nooks.

GOLD PANNING Hire a gold pan from the Lakes District Museum in Arrowtown and try your luck panning for riches in the river. Lessons are conducted at Dudley Cottage. Afterward, explore the museum’s fantastic displays that detail the 1860s gold rush. Kids particularly like the ‘spot the odd one out’ game, where modern items are hidden amidst the 19th century artefacts.

Arrowtown

after the Arrow River • 22km NE of Queenstown

FINE WINE Lock lips with over 80 award-winning wines and whiskies at

SKI FIELDS In Arrowtown, you’re on the doorstep to four superb ski areas – Cardrona, Coronet Peak, The Remarkables and Treble Cone. Come winter, the pistes are some of New Zealand’s finest. OLD-FASHIONED SWEETS Load up on nostalgic lollies at the Remarkables Sweet Shop. You won’t be able to resist the shelves packed with fudge and gobstoppers. Pop in for a sample and come out with a year’s supply of lemon sherbet! GORGEOUS WALKS Discover at least four shore-fronting rope swings on the Arrowtown Anniversary Walk. The Sawpit Gully Trail is a two to three-hour loop track that starts near the Chinese Settlement and follows the Arrow River Trail before turning onto the Sawpit Gully path.

Dramatic river and mountain scenery with trails suitable year-round for all fitness levels. New Zealand’s hidden treasure just 20 minutes from Queenstown Airport, Arrowtown is the perfect hub to explore by bike. Guided, self-guided and transport options for all ages and time frames. Pop into the Lakes District Museum for trail maps to help choose your best cycle option.

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GREAT RIDE • THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL

ARROWTOWN’S VINTAGE CINEMA Dorothy Browns is Arrowtown’s retro-inspired cinema and a delightful hangout. Enjoy art house movies while sipping wine. There’s a terrific atmosphere and the film reel is always projecting something wonderful.

The Winery. Try a drop of something special from boutique wineries that don’t always have their own cellar doors.

AROUND THE MOUNTAINS

Von Valley Biking, Southland © Chris McLennan BELOW: Walter Peak © Real Journeys

GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

Cycle Trail

BEST FOR: Exploring through Southland’s rural heartland.

WALTER PEAK to KINGSTON 3-5 days

186km

Tracing the gentle curves of Lake Wakatipu and under the careful watch of Eyre Mountains, this easy, family-friendly ride follows well-graded paths over the course of three to five adventurous days.

TOP TIP – Watch the setting sun as it flickers across the mountain tops, casting a glow of golden ripples. Māori named the area Taka Ra Haka in reference to this dancing sunlight.

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inking Queenstown’s Walter Peak Station to Kingston, the trail can be done in either direction, but starting from the foot of Walter Peak allows riders to first enjoy a scenic Lake Wakatipu crossing aboard the historic TSS Earnslaw steamship. Once on shore, the trail briefly skirts the lakefront before delving into a remote landscape. Grand vistas saturate every view point, and the isolation will have you believe that no one else has ever step foot here. Nearby Mavora Lakes offer a serene campsite setting and camp fires are permitted in fire drums that the campground provides. Cyclists are encouraged to attack this trail at their own pace, with itineraries customised to suit every member of your clan. With numerous highcountry townships speckling the route, there is every opportunity to stop at cosy, comfortable lodges – you’ll never have been more pleased to see a fluffy white towel. Local shops showcasing regional craftmanship, southern hospitality and unique cafés are highlights of the route. Once in Kingston, Lake Wakatipu comes back into view, signalling the conclusion of your ride. Jump on a scenic shuttle back to Queenstown and complete your voyage with hot food and drinks at one of the town’s inviting taverns.

GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

WALTER PEAK STATION TO MAVORA LAKES, 50KM

The scenery on this initial leg will possibly knock your socks off. It begins with the scenic cruise across Lake Wakatipu with stunning views of the mountaintops as you approach Walter Peak. Here you can explore the historic homestead, enjoy the café and even watch a live shearing demonstration. As it traces the lakeshore towards Mt Nicholas Station, the trail reveals postcard views across to the Richardson Mountains and beyond towards Mt Aspiring National Park. Riding on a gravel road surrounded by golden grasslands and tussocky mountain tops, it’s a short but fairly grunty climb up Von Hill. It’s then pretty much downhill all the way to the magical Mavora Lakes.

MAVORA LAKES TO MOSSBURN, 53KM

The Mavora Lakes are a sight to behold, surrounded by forest and nestled between the Livingstone and Thomson mountains. Bike-packers can immerse themselves for longer in this magical environment made famous by The Lord of The Rings trilogy by pitching up overnight at the DOC campsite. From Mavora, the trail continues along the gravel road to Centre Hill Shelter (29km), from where the trail joins the purpose-built off-road trail. The gravel section can get dusty in the summer months; you may prefer to organise a shuttle through to Mossburn. Self-proclaimed deer capital of New Zealand but surrounded by cows, Mossburn enjoys a splendid setting in mountain surrounds and is a good

place to stop overnight.

MOSSBURN TO LUMSDEN, 20KM The ride through northern Southland to the town of Lumsden is quite the contrast to the previous day, rolling farmland taking the place of tussock-clad high country. This section traverses a mix of old railway line and well-graded track, threaded between the highway and farmland.

LUMSDEN TO ATHOL, 33KM This section serves up more charming rural countryside. Continuing along the old railway line, it also traces the edge of the Ōreti River, well known for fly fishing. Five Rivers is a good place to rest and rehydrate. Riders will continue on the well-manicured track to Athol where you can enjoy some time with southern folk.

ATHOL TO KINGSTON, 30KM Athol is a tiny rural town situated on a small plain surrounded by mountains including Mid Dome (1478m) to the south and Flagstaff (1037m) to the east. As you leave Athol look out for the wooden suspension bridges that locals have nicknamed the Golden Gate Bridges. Garston, known as New Zealand’s most inland town, is a good place to stop for refreshments. From there, the final leg of the ride takes you past historic Fairlight Station, where the Kingston Flyer train stops on charter trips. From here the trail follows the glacial moraine heading gradually downhill, finishing in Kingston on the shores of Lake Wakatipu where you can watch the sun hit the mountain tops and reflect on this journey through a special slice of New Zealand.

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5 PLACES FOR A GOOD MUNCH

GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

1. Lumsden is a tiny town with world-class beef pies. They sell out as fast as they are made at Bafe-Bakery – and if you can leave without buying a fresh cream doughnut, you’ll be the first. 2. Route 6 Café and Bar (also located in Lumsden) is pretty ordinary from the outset but step inside and you’ll find a retro American diner, complete with 1955 Dodge Kingsman car. 3. In wee Garston, gobble up a hot bomb (sandwich) from retro caravan-cum-café, The Coffee Bomb. It’s a bit of a secret but we’re spilling the beans.

Highlights of the trail • Glacier carved Mavora Lakes are pretty as a picture and perfect for a picnic. The $8 per night campsite provides barbecues and steel drums for cosy camp fires under starlit skies. • In Mossburn, a giant statue crowned with genuine stag antlers confirms that this is New Zealand’s deer capital.

• Lumsden is revered for its farm stays and fishing. Keen anglers flock here to try their luck at catching brown trout, which the local Oreti River is teeming with. For non-fishers, the cafés and craft shops welcome visitors with the same sincerity they do long-term locals.

The cycling country we all dream of...

• Between Athol and Kingston on the trail’s last leg, is Garston, New Zealand’s most inland town. A 10km detour along the Welcome Rock Trail leads to Mud Hut, a rough and ready trampers’ shack complete with rustic outdoor bath – and nothing but tussock views.

Lake 2 Lake Trail

4. Bracken Hall café is in Mossburn, and to quote a recent TripAdvisor review, ‘This place needs to be a UNESCO World Heritage site based on today’s venison pie!’

Perenuka Park

Welcome Rock Trails

Te Anau Around The Mountains Cycle Trail

Lumsden

Borland Road

Hokonui Loop Track

Tuatapere

Gore

Bald Hill

Sandy Point

Hokonui Water Race Trail

SIT Velodrome

Invercargill

The Catlins

Bluff Hill

Oban

RIDE A WORLD-CLASS TRACK, EXPLORE BREATHTAKING TRAILS, OR EXPERIENCE THRILLING MOUNTAIN BIKING... 138

Stewart Is. southlandnz.com/greatrides

TOP QUEENSTOWN ACTIVITIES

Discover Bob’s Cove This pretty inlet lies just 20 minutes out of town on the road to Glenorchy and is

reached via a lake-fringing walkway. Several heavenly beach spots reveal themselves, including a jetty you’ll immediately want to jump off. Kiwi Birdlife Park Sitting at the bottom of Queenstown’s Skyline gondola in the heart of town, meet parakeets, kea and weka and observe kiwi feeding at the Kiwi Encounter show. Water fun Kayak down Dart River, try canyoning or riverboard the rapids of Kawarau River. Jump on a jet boat or pedal across Lake Wakatipu on a 3-wheeled aqua bike. Indoor activities Enjoy all the exhilaration of skydiving without the 12,000 feet drop at indoor skydiving centre, iFLY. Bundle up and hit the ice rink, get lost in Odyssey Sensory Maze or descend on Thrillzone for virtual reality gaming.

Queenstown

Lake cruises Shimmy across Lake Wakatipu on boats of all sizes and style. Take a sunset cruise for one humdinger of an experience.

Put it o ny

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ike It’ lis r ‘B t

SHUTTLES - BIKING PACKAGES - BIKE HIRE

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GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

Hikes The 2km Queenstown Hill Time Walk passes the Basket of Dreams sculpture; Ben Lomond is an eight-hour leg burner and the Frankton Arm Walk takes in Lake Wakatipu over three beautiful hours. You can also access Bob’s Peak on an hour-long walk via the Tiki Trail.

Where next?

GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

Lake 2 Lake Cycle Trail

ith its proximity and easy access to the spectacular Fiordland National Park, the Lake 2 Lake Cycle Trail runs from Lake Te Anau towards Lake Manapōuri, winding through bird-filled woodland and tracing the course of the Waiau River. Some say it’s New Zealand’s most picturesque ride. At present, the half-day trail is approximately 19km

ropped off by the Skyline gondola amongst the pine trees nearly 500m above central Queenstown, riders are confronted with a mind-boggling number of downhill runs at the Queenstown Bike Park. The gondola gives riders easy access to a 30km network of phenomenal biking opportunities. With a total of 30 trails criss-crossing the southern flanks of Bob’s Peak and an array of different terrain, you can cruise and soak up the scenery or test your mettle and your brakes! The park is open from

and Graded 1-2/Easy so it’s suitable for the entire family, although there are a number of hills and a handful of hairpin bends to negotiate. It’s easy to hire bikes in Te Anau, with electric bikes also available. Due to its relative newness, the route is well-marked and easy to follow, with plans to extend the route already in progress. Watch this space for trail extensions.

September to May with dedicated gondola cars that take up to four bikes and riders. The charming town of Kingston sits nestled between the Eyre Mountains and the Hector Range at Lake Wakatipu’s southern end. It’s a pretty spot where you can visit the lovingly restored Kingston Flyer steam train that runs sporadic public trips, take photos of the views and South Island baches, and enjoy the lake, birds, starry skies, friendly locals and the café/bar.

Lumsden

after George Lumsden, Mayor of Invercargill • 62km NW of Gore

iFi

W EE

LUMSDEN MOTEL 140

QUIET, COMFY, CENTRAL • 5 self-contained ensuite units sleep 1-5 • Laundry & dryer available • Continental breakfasts by arrangement • Guest BBQ and outdoor socialising area • Sherpa Shuttle service for ATMCT available on request • Playground and shops across the road • Tariff: $130-$180 (1-5 persons). Extra adults $20 each, children $15 7 Hero St, Lumsden, Southland Ph: + 64 3 248 7418 Email: lumsdenmotel@gmail.com www.lumsdenmotel.co.nz

Bar & Bistro • Formal private dining room 1-brm apartment, ensuite rooms + double/twin rooms with shared amenities Group booking specialists • Secure bike storage.

6 Diana Street, Lumsden • P: +64 3 248 7817 • RES: 0800 LUMSTOPIA E: admin@thelumsdenhotel.com • www.thelumsdenhotel.co.nz

Time in Te Anau

Fiord – its commanding presence is enhanced by the majestic mountains and forest set to the west, and the sweeping countryside to the east. Among the many things to do here, a cruise on the lake is essential. Te Anau is basecamp for all Fiordland adventures. Wellknown as the walking capital of the world, the Milford, Hollyford, Routeburn, Greenstone, Caples, Kepler and Dusky tracks are all nearby.

GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

erched on the shores of Lake Te Anau, the eponymous town is quite the treasure trove of geological phenomena. From a limestone grotto of glowworms and an underground waterfall in the local caves to its beautiful glacial lake – the largest in the South Island. With the main body of the lake running north to south and three arms stretching out from the western side – North Fiord, Middle Fiord and South

Te Anau

283km NW of Dunedin on SH 6

BIKE FIORDLAND

Southland’s Bike Experts

Shop – Tours – Rentals – Transport – Full Tour Itineraries

Mossburn

Scottish place name • 113km S of Queenstown

Café

& GIFT SHOP Breakfasts, lunches, coffee, venison pies, real-fruit ice creams, takeaway lunches Free WiFi available Phone: +64 3 248 6033 Email: brackenhall@xtra.co.nz Open: 8.30am to 5.30pm www.brackenhall.co.nz

Main Street, Mossburn

Life’s an adventure, so grab it by the wheels! Explore the Around the Mountains Great Ride, Te Anau’s Lake 2 Lake Cycle Trail, or both. Whether you are looking for bikes to rent, a full itinerary created and booked for you, bike servicing, or something from our retail store, we have you covered.

Come and see us or check out our website and speak with one of our experts today! www.bikefiordland.nz Call us: 0800 9600 96 | 68 Town Centre, Te Anau Formerly known as Wild Rides Fiordland 141

MOSSBURN to INVERCARGILL

SOUTHLAND Traverse

2 days

HEARTLAND RIDE • SOUTHLAND TRAVERSE

BEST FOR: Getting from Mossburn to Invercargill without using the busier highway. Take the scenic route all the way to Invercargill by negotiating the pleasant, reasonably quiet highways of the Southland Traverse. Good looking vistas come thick and fast on this two-day ride. .

TOP TIP – Welcome Rock is a private, 27km cross-country cycle trail located on a high country station an hour’s drive from Mossburn. Enjoy a day trip or book accommodation for a multi-day adventure.

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onnecting Mossburn (or Lumsden) to Invercargill over 104km and two days, this Grade 2-4 bike ride slices through the South Island’s lower region, one that’s freckled with cyclists and sightseers soaking up the beauty. This Heartland Ride is also part of the 3000km Tour Aotearoa trail which travels all the way from Cape Rēinga at the top of the North Island to Bluff at the bottom of the South Island. You may meet a fair few weatherworn cyclists along this route who have just done over 2000km. Cyclists should also be aware that the track often traces or criss-crosses parts of the Southern Scenic Route, a popular tourist highway that’s used by buses and couch tour companies. It is still a fantastic alternative to busier highways and primarily uses scenic back roads. In total, the track utilises 95 percent sealed road and 5 percent gravel road or gravel path. In between drinking up the pastoral scenery and bucolic views, stop in charming small towns such as Winton and Wallacetown for provisions and a rest.

HEARTLAND RIDE • SOUTHLAND TRAVERSE

This route can be started from either Mossburn or Lumsden, two towns on the Around the Mountains Cycle Trail. From Mossburn, head east on the Around the Mountains Cycle Trail, which runs beside SH 94. After 13km, turn right off the cycle trail, cross the highway and ride south on Dipton Castlerock Rd. Follow the Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails’ signs south, turning right at West Dipton down George St, then left onto South Hillend Dipton Rd.

When you are 54km from Mossburn, turn right onto Hundred Line Rd and shortly after, left onto Riverside Rd. When you reach SH 96, turn left and cross the Oreti River, then turn right on to Winton Substation Rd. A few minutes later, turn left onto Gerrard Rd and ride into the centre of Winton, where there are dozens of shops. From Winton, ride back out of town on Meldrum St, and after 600m, turn left onto the Winton Walkway to follow

a gravel path around the edge of town. Then follow Price Rd, Substation Rd, Calder Rd, Nelson Rd, Lochiel Branxholme Rd, Young Rd and Ryal Bush Wallacetown Rd to Wallacetown. There are a few shops at Wallacetown, and public toilets in the garage on your left as you enter town (only open when the garage is open). From Wallacetown, carefully follow SH 99 for 3.5km before turning right down Steel Rd. Turn left at West Plains Rd, and

right at Gloucester St. After entering the fringe of Invercargill, turn left along Bay Rd, and then at the main road (SH 6) turn right onto the signposted cycle path that crosses the Waihopai River. At the southern end of the Waihopai River bridge you can turn right onto a gravel path that skirts around the edge of Invercargill. There are several options for branching off this path and heading into town. The last one is at Tweed St.

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Are you an AA Member? HEARTLAND RIDE • SOUTHLAND TRAVERSE

From accommodation, rental cars and campervans, to ferries, scenic trains and guided biking and hiking tours, AA Members can receive great discounts and deals with AA Traveller Member Benefits.

CATHEDRAL COVE

Discover AA Member Benefit offers, travel ideas and inspiration, plus free digital travel guides at aatraveller.co.nz 144

in the places you love, with the people who matter the most

Ready for your next cycling holiday?

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At TOP 10, we make that easy. Our 49 spectacular locations around New Zealand offer the perfect base for your cycling adventures. It’s easy to ride in and out, and when you’re done for the day, you can enjoy all the great TOP 10 facilities (including a nice warm shower). Get the most out of your cycling adventures. Roll on up to one of our TOP 10 Holiday Parks.

Join our Club and save on TOP 10 Accommodation, Interislander Ferry Travel, Scenic Train Journeys and at over 300 activity operators, cafés and restaurants throughout New Zealand.

Join at a TOP 10 Holiday Park reception, or online MOTELS

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MUST 2021

New Zealand walks from 30 minutes to multi-day

YOUR FREE COP Y

DOs

MUST Official Guide 2021/22

YOUR FREE COP Y

DOs

Featuring Short Walks, Day Hikes & Great Walks • Maps • Safety • Walk Descriptions Tips • Things to See & Do • Places to Stay

aatraveller.c o.nz

Te Puka Ārahi

Manuhiri ki Tāma ki

Makaurau

Featuring • Highlights & Recommendation s • Regional Maps • Local Tips • Links to More Online

aatraveller.c o.nz Includes: Centra l Auckland, North Auckland, South East Auckland, Auckland, West Auckland and Hauraki Gulf & Islands.

Where else are you planning to go? For inspiration, see We Love You New Zealand online. A suite of Must-Do’s covering New Zealand’s regions, North Island and South Island road trip itineraries, Must-Do’s Walking and MustDo’s Cycling can be found online or pick up a hard copy from an AA Centre.

Must-Do's Cycling 2021-22

Articles inside

Cycle the Remutaka Cycle Trail

Cycle the Manawatū Cycleway

Cycle the Hawke's Bay Trails

Cycle the Southland Traverse

Ride Around the Mountains Cycle Trail

Cycle the Queenstown Trail

Cycle the Clutha Gold Trail

Ride the Roxburgh Gorge Trail

Ride the Lake Dunstan Trail

Cycle the Otago Central Rail Trail

Cycle the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail

Cycle the Hurunui Trail

Cycle the St James Cycle Trail

Ride the Rainbow Trail

Cycle the Molesworth Muster Trail

Cycle the West Coast Wilderness Trail

Cycle The Old Ghost Road

Ride Tasman's Great Taste Trail

Cycle the Coppermine Trail

Cycle the Forgotten World Highway Cycle Route

Cycle the Queen Charlotte Track

Cycle the Mountains to Sea Trails

Cycle the Great Lake Trails

Cycle The Timber Trail

Cycle the Rere Falls Trail

Cycle the Motu Trails

Cycle Te Ara Ahi Thermal by Bike

Cycle the Waikato River Trails

Cycle the Hauraki Rail Trail

Cycle Kaipara's Missing Link

Cycle the Kauri Coast Cycleway

Cycle the Far North Cycleway - one of the Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trail's Heartland Rides

Cycle the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail

Kathryn Webster cycles the Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand