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IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIR
U.S. $7.95 CAN $9.95
THE DECK, PATIO AND LANDSCAPE ISSUE! ISSUE: 7/8 HIRpub.com
INSIDE EXPERT ADVICE ON WORKING WITH TREATED WOOD TOOL TIPS FOR DECK WORK THREE WAYS TO BUILD A PAVER PATIO BUILDING DRY-STACK STONE LANDSCAPE WALLS
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INSIDE: 06 09 16 Cover photo courtesy of YellaWood
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EXPERT ADVICE ON WORKING WITH TREATED WOOD
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TREATED RIGHT
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SKILL LEVEL
SKILL LEVEL
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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER START SMART • LAWN AND LANDSCAPE UPGRADES • ASK MATT • NEWSWIRE TOOL TECH TOOL TIPS FOR DECK WORK PAVERS, PLEASE THREE WAYS TO BUILD A PAVER PATIO SKILL SET PROTECT YOUR DECK JOB ESSENTIALS • SURE HOLD • TREX RAINESCAPE • PERMA-CHINK • LEISURE TIME PRODUCTS • KEYSTONE HARDSCAPES STEP-BY-STEP HANDBOOK BUILDING DRY-STACK STONE LANDSCAPE WALLS
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KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL: LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO
Home Improvement and Repair | The Deck, Patio & Landscape Issue
SKILL LEVEL
SKILL LEVEL
HARD
PRO
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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER
Outdoor building is bigger than ever. Transforming a home’s yard into a living space has been a hot trend for many years, and now that people are spending more time at home, more people are jumping on board. Over the years that we’ve spent covering home-improvement projects, the HIR staff has also
DEPENDING ON THE SCOPE OF THE PROJECT, CONSTRUCTION OF A DECK, PATIO, PORCH CAN BE A HUGE UNDERTAKING. PUBLISHER JEREMY HOLLINGSWORTH jeremy@HIRpub.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MATT WEBER matt@HIRpub.com
noticed another trend among homeowners: They like to work on these projects themselves. Depending on the scope of the project, construction of a deck, patio, porch can be a huge undertaking. The nice thing about property ownership, however, is the owner can choose to tackle a small project or repair, and then hire a pro for the big installations. Or, an ambitious DIY’er might even attempt to break ground and build up a project for themselves. We’ve learned that DIY’ers are often more eager to test their mettle outdoors than indoors, because all the associated mess and chaos of remodeling stays outside the house. However, there’s a lot to learn about outdoor building. Professional deck builders and landscape architects make good money because they employ the
ADVISORY BOARD JEFF WINKLE CHIP LOVELADY JIM BUTTERS KATHY ZIPRIK MARK CLEMENT ROB ROBILLARD LARRY CLEMENT
proper construction techniques to ensure the safety and durability of the project. To assist that learning process, this issue of HIR offers our readers a handful of stories to help upgrade a home’s outdoor living space, from a look at building materials and deck-building advice to patio and sidewalk construction. We hope you enjoy this special issue, and you can expect many more stories from us in the future about outdoor living. Please drop us a line to recommend what we should cover.
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTERS CARTER SWIFT TOM MATTHEWS COPY EDITOR DIANE WEBER
CREATIVE DIRECTOR WESLEY GLASSCO wesley@HIRpub.com
AD DESIGN/COORDINATION SPECIALIZED MEDIA SERVICES, INC. ads@HIRpub.com PRODUCTION MANAGER SHANNA QUIGLEY ONLINE/SOCIAL MEDIA DEVELOPMENT GLORIA BERRIO
Home Improvement & Repair is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226, Birmingham, AL 35242. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission. The editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change. We assume no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.
PINE MOUNTAIN MEDIA GROUP LLC
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STARTSMART LAWN AND LANDSCAPE UPGRADES THAT INCREASE PROPERTY VALUE
Some landscaping helps home value, and some doesn't. According to a 2018 report by the National Association of Realtors, lawn care services return 267 percent of the investment. Landscape maintenance and tree care are a break-even proposition, returning 100 percent of the investment. On the other hand, a new pool is far underwater when it comes to return on investment. According to NAR, a new pool recovers just 43 percent of the average $57,500 cost of installation. So when you have a limited budget for improving your exterior, what gives the most bang for your buck? Daniel Ray of LawnStarter.com suggest the following upgrades for the best landscaping ROI:
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A WELL-MAINTAINED LAWN THAT’S THE NO. 1 LANDSCAPING ITEM, YIELDING THE MOST MONEY ON THE INVESTMENT.
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ALMOST ANYTHING YOU BUY FALLS IN VALUE. TREES ARE AN EXCEPTION. IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A TREE THAT ALREADY HAS SOME SIZE, BUT STILL FITS IN THE BACK OF A TRUCK, GO FOR A 15-GALLON POT. IT WILL HOLD A TREE ABOUT 8 FEET TALL, FOR A REASONABLE PRICE — $50-$150, DEPENDING ON THE VARIETY.
2 TIDY GARDEN REMOVE PERENNIAL WEEDS. FOR SOME BUYERS, THEY’RE A RED FLAG ISSUE THAT SIGNALS PROBLEMS.
5 4 LANDSCAPED PATHWAY REPAIR CRACKS THAT WILL SPOIL THE FIRST IMPRESSION. TRY DESIGNING A PATHWAY THAT WILL CREATE ANTICIPATION. IDEALLY, HAVE IT WINDING WITH PLANTS OR A SMALL HEDGE ON EACH SIDE.
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SHRUBS AND TREES
LIGHTING OUTDOOR LIGHTING OPTIONS ARE AVAILABLE WITHIN THE LIMITS OF ANY HOMEOWNER’S BUDGET, AND BUYERS APPRECIATE THE LAYER OF SECURITY.
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LAWN AND LANDSCAPE UPGRADES THAT INCREASE PROPERTY VALUE
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OUTDOOR KITCHEN ONE OF THE TRENDIEST ITEMS IS ONE OF THE MOST EXPENSIVE — A PERMANENT, BUILT-IN DECK FOR ENTERTAINMENT AND COOKING. IN EFFECT, IT INCREASES THE USABLE SQUARE FOOTAGE OF THE HOUSE. IT RETURNS AN ESTIMATED 83 PERCENT OF THE AMOUNT SPENT.
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AUTOMATED IRRIGATION EXPECT TO PAY AT LEAST $3,000 FOR A FULLY AUTOMATED IRRIGATION SYSTEM, BUT BUYERS WILL LOVE IT.
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FRESH MULCH NEED SOMETHING THAT WILL TURN A DULL YARD FRESH, ECONOMICALLY, AND QUICKLY? GO MULCH.
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STARTSMART WHAT HURTS MORE THAN HELPS? According to Daniel Ray of LawnStarter.com, avoid these lawn and landscape features to retain the best property value.
ARTIFICIAL GRASS ALTHOUGH IT OFFERS THE ULTIMATE IN LOW MAINTENANCE, IT FRIGHTENS OFF POTENTIAL BUYERS WITH CHILDREN WHO WANT AN AREA TO PLAY. BROKEN FENCE PANELS, CRACKED WALLS RESEARCH HAS SHOWN THAT BROKEN FENCE PANELS OR CRACKED WALLS CAN REMOVE $1,000 FROM THE VALUE OF YOUR HOUSE.
OUTDOOR WATER FEATURES
LARGE WATER FEATURES COULD PULL DOWN YOUR PROPERTY VALUE BY $2,500-$10,000, DEPENDING ON THE SIZE AND HOW THEY ARE “PLUMBED” INTO THE GARDEN. WHILE THEY ARE GREAT FOR ATTRACTING BEES, BIRDS, AND BUTTERFLIES, SOME BUYERS SEE WATER FEATURES AS MORE WORK TO MAINTAIN.
UNKEMPT GARDEN AN UNTENDED GARDEN THAT HASN’T BEEN GIVEN ANY TLC COULD KNOCK 1 TO 2% OFF YOUR ASKING PRICE. AND GO BIG: ACCORDING TO AN VIRGINIA EXTENSION SURVEY, A BIG AND SHOWY GARDEN HAS THE MOST RETURN, WHILE PUTTING IN A COUPLE OF SCRAWNY PLANTS ACTUALLY HURTS HOME VALUE.
SWIMMING POOLS, HOT TUBS
NO MATTER HOW MANY GREAT SUMMER DAYS YOU SPEND AROUND A POOL, MANY BUYERS SEE ONLY MAINTENANCE HEADACHES, ADDITIONAL INSURANCE REQUIREMENTS, AND CONSTANT WORRY ABOUT SAFETY. OVERALL, THE RETURN ON POOLS IS ALSO QUITE LOW AT 43%.
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STARTSMART QUESTION: What is a gabion landscape wall?
ANSWER: A gabion wall uses a wire cage filled with rocks piled on top of one another. The size and weight of the stones can require a different thickness of wire mesh. Gabion walls have a simple design that lends to speedy construction, flexibility to tolerate movement, easy handling and transportation of materials, and water permeability for good drainage. Gabion walls can present an easy-tobuild method to protect slopes from erosion. QUESTION: How does a ground screw work for outdoor applications? ANSWER: A “ground screw" is a simple ground-level anchoring solution that can be installed quickly in a wide range of soil conditions using a number of lowspeed, high-torque drivers. Some of the simplest models are designed to provide an anchor bracket for a 4x4 post. Depending on the design of the screw, soil conditions, and nature of the application, some metal ground screws can be installed by a DIY’er with a simple winding bar included with the screw. Easy to remove and relocate, the concrete-free ground screws can provide a handy method for one-day installation of mailboxes, deck posts, fences, solar panels and foundations of all types.
ASK MATT
Got a question for Matt? Visit Matt’s blog at HIRpub.com/news.
NEWSWIRE HOUSING ECONOMICS AT A GLANCE Times have been tough during the pandemic and the associated lock-downs. Nobody will claim the economy is in good shape, but we can find some silver linings in the home remodeling and construction sectors. According to economic research from July released by The Top Agency: “As Americans stayed home for most of the spring months, many took it upon themselves to start their own homerenovation projects rather than hiring outside contractors.” Since the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic, Top Data has found as much as a 41% increase in traffic at homeimprovement stores like Home Depot and Lowe’s compared to the same months in 2019. Sales remain above average for this same time last year. Although home builders were at first side-lined during the lock-downs, the market’s pent-up demand bodes well for a quick recovery. As Kiplinger reported in July: “Residential construction rose in June amid strong demand for new homes. Housing starts rose 17.3% to an annualized pace of 1.186 million units in June, following double-digit
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declines in March and April. The increase in June, plus upward revisions to May data, suggests that starts are making up some of the pandemic losses ... Single-family starts rose 17.2% in May, while multi-family starts rose 17.5%. A gain of 2.1% in building permits indicates that residential construction will pick up in coming months, particularly for single-family homes.” H
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Goddard Spiral Stairs • CUSTOM DESIGNED • HANDCRAFTED • BUILT TO YOUR SPECS!
T BUILHE IN T .A! U.S
At Goddard Manufacturing Co., we specialize in custom designed, handcrafted spiral staircases - built to your specifications. You can choose from several different styles of spiral staircases and our professional craftsmen can custom design a spiral staircase to fit almost any application.
Goddard Manufacturing Company PO Box 502, Logan KS 67646 Toll Free: 800-536-4341
www.spiral-staircases.com
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TOOL TECH
TOOL TIPS FOR DECK WORK
s Resize the boards for disposal by cross-cutting them between two joists.
By Matt Weber
The HIR staff has worked on many decks over many years. We have a few favorite tools for a few different tasks and wanted to share our recommendations with you.
DECK DEMOLITION When tearing down an elevated deck, leave the guardrail intact as a safety precaution until most of the work is complete. For low-elevation
decks, however, it makes sense to begin by disassembling the rail first to gain easy access to the decking. A reciprocating saw can speed up the job by cutting through nail-embedded joints. To remove deck boards, begin from the rim or the center of the deck and work toward any surrounding walls. An ideal scenario is to have a crew of helpers pry up the boards fully intact and haul them to the curb for roadside pickup and disposal. When this is not an option, a good strategy for a lone DIY’er is to cut the boards just long enough to fit into a truck, trailer or
WATCH AND LEARN Click the video image to the left if you are reading our digital magazine at HIRpub.digital.
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TOOL TECH
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dumpster for transport to a landfill. Set a circular saw blade slightly deeper than the thickness of the decking and cross-cut the boards between two parallel joists. To pry up the first board, I usually begin by lifting a corner with my Dominator pry bar. Available in different sizes from Mayhew Tools, mine is a hefty 30-in. version with a rubber handle and tapered tip to slip between tightly spaced boards. A teardrop nail slot at the end also makes it easy to pull fasteners. Removing the first board exposes the support framing, so the larger head of a demolition bar can fit beneath the decking to use the joists as leverage when prying out the rest of the boards. One of my favorite demolition bars is the Gutster (gutstertools.com), which has plenty of reach plus an angled head and handle for maximum leverage when prying. Rather than spending the day hunched over using a claw bar and hammer, the Gutster lets you work from a standing position. The wheels on the head also
make it easy to move around hard surfaces for prying up wallboard, flooring and more. The Mayhew Deck Wrecker (mayhew.com) is also one of our go-to tools. Another long-handled demolition bar, this one features a dual cat's paw with enough clearance between the two prying heads to span across doubled joists and 4X beams. All the demolition bars feature nail-removal slots that let you pull fasteners while on your feet rather than on your knees. Your body will thank you. One common frustration with demolition is the resulting broken fasteners. Once the head has snapped off a fastener, a claw-style nail puller has nothing to grab onto. To remove the broken ones, I rely on the Extractor from Jefferson Tool (www.nailextractor.com). This pliers-style tool has a patented design that will not slip or shear. As you roll the tool over its curved head, the auto-locking parallel jaws evenly distribute gripping force up and down the length of the fastener, so pulling headless
s The Gutster demolition bar provides plenty of leverage and reach for prying boards.
s The Mayhew Deck Wrecker features dual cat's paws which can span 4X lumber.
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TOOL TIPS FOR DECK WORK
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s If you gain leverage at the ends of the boards, you can pop them up to speed the removal process.
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Slotted nail pullers on long demo bars such as the Mayhew Dominator make it easy to remove fasteners.
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Reduce the frustation of removing broken fasteners by using the Extractor from Jefferson Tool, which can easily pull headless nails.
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TOOL TECH
s The Mayhew Tweaker grabs 2X lumber and provides a handle to adjust its position.
s The DeckWise Hardwood Wrench easily straightens bowed boards and can even cam-lock in place if you need to free your hands.
nails are no problem. This design always keeps the minimum gripping force required to prevent slippage, saving lots of time and frustration. DECK INSTALLATION When it's necessary to replace or install a new joist, you'll want the snuggest fit possible. That is sometimes easier said than done when dealing with bowed or warped wood. For difficult-to-position lumber, I use the
Mayhew Tweaker, which is a large wrench that grips a 2x board and provides a foot-long handle to push, pull, crank and twist the lumber right into the position you want it. Bowed boards can be a pain to deal with when deck joints won't close--unless you're packing the Hardwood Wrench from our friends at DeckWise. The best board-straightening tool we've ever used, it has a long hardwood handle for dependable strength and ample leverage. It's built with stainless steel and aircraft-grade aluminum to hold deck joists with a rock-solid grip while you wrench bent boards into place and cam-lock the tool to free you hands
WATCH AND LEARN Click the video image to the left if you are reading our digital magazine at HIRpub.digital.
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TOOL TIPS FOR DECK WORK
while you drive the fasteners. With a pushing force of around 1,100 lbs., the Hardwood Wrench can straighten deck boards from both left- or right-hand direction, and the adjustable pins can grip joists up to 3-1/2 inches. Treated deck boards are often fastened through the top of the board to the joists with decking screws, which tend to have more longterm holding power than smooth-shank nails. Coated screws are available in a range of colors for extra weather protection and to help blend with the decking.
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To install 1X pressure-treated decking with hidden fasteners, the CAMO Drive system attaches to your drill/driver and lets you work five times faster by using collated screws driven from a standing position.
Although the trend in hidden fasteners is often associated with composite decking, National Nail offers the CAMO Drive System that can achieve a fastener-free appearance for treated wood deck boards. The CAMO Drive attaches to your existing cordless drill/driver and uses an angled tip to drive specially engineered screws through the edge of a 1X deck board and into the joists. By driving the screws diagonally through the board edges, the small screw holes are hidden inside the board joints
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TOOL TECH so the deck surface appears to have no fasteners. I'll give three strong reasons why we recommend this system. First, you can fasten the boards while standing up instead of working on your hands and knees. Second, all the CAMO Drive screws are loaded in collated strips for semi-automatic operation, which really speeds up installation time. Third, the hidden fasteners not only leave a uniform, unblemished appearance on the deck surface, but I figure the tiny fastener holes on the sides of the boards are less likely to absord standing water than when driven through the board face, so this might extend the life of the wood. H
DeckWise Hardwood Finishes
5 DIY TIPS FOR TREATED DECKS 1. Joists—If it's necessary to replace or install a joist, be sure to inspect the board for its crown. Dimensional lumber is rarely perfectly straight, and the "crown" is the board's natural curvature which is visible when looking down the board's narrowest edge. The crown will the give the board a slightly bowed or arc shape, and when used as a deck joist, it's important to orient the high mid-point of the arc at the top to prevent sagging in the deck surface. Avoid toe-nailing deck joists. Attach them to rims and ledgers using metal hangers fastened with codeapproved nails or screws.
Bring out the natural beauty of your hardwood with DeckWise Semi-Transparent hardwood finishes. DeckWise finishes provide superior protection and conditioning while maintaining a completely natural appearance, whether you are looking for an oil-based or water-based hardwood finish. Ipe Oil Hardwood Deck Finish, an oil-based natural wood finish available in two low-VOC formulas (250 VOC and 100 VOC). Incorporating a semi-transparent light brown tint, Ipe Oil penetrates down deep into the dense, resin-rich fibers of hardwoods to highlight the all-natural woodgrain depth. Ipe Oil provides excellent penetration of even the densest hardwoods with minimal raising of the grain for exceptional results on Ipe, Tigerwood, Cumaru and other exotic hardwoods. WiseCoat Premium Hardwood Deck, Siding & Fence Sealer is a low-VOC (53 g/l), non-toxic waterproofer sealant designed for use on hardwood decking, siding and fence surfaces. Incorporating an amber semi-transparent tint WiseCoat has a water-based formula which utilizes proprietary nanotechnology to create a long-lasting breathable barrier against caustic conditions and harsh weather. The WiseCoat tint enhances the natural splendor and beauty of hardwoods without drastically changing the color of the wood. WiseCoat is also safe for use around people, pets, and plants and is safe for the environment. Visit deckwise.com
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DECK JOIST TAPE™ ProtectoWrap.com s 2. Flashing Tape—For the best longterm weather protection, cover the tops of joists and framing members with a selfadhering tape used as flashing. These butyl or asphalt tapes protect fastener holes from moisture by acting as a noncorrosive barrier between treated lumber and metal hardware.
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TOOL TIPS FOR DECK WORK
3. Decking—Before installing the deck boards, inspect their ends for the tree's growth rings. In general, it's best to install the boards bark-side up to reduce cupping. However, some boards that are cut closer to the core of the tree have a straighter, tighter grain, and therefore less cupping. 4. Shrinkage—A common amateur mistake is spacing treated deck boards when installing them. Treated decking usually contains moisture from the treatment plant which causes the wood to swell. As the wood cures, you can expect the boards to shrink. For this reason, it's best to install the deck boards tightly together and allow the spacing to occur naturally over time. If you pre-space the boards, once the deck cures, the gaps will probably be too large. 5. Notches—Need to cut a notch around a post? First, measure and mark the cut-out on the board. Use a drill with a bit slightly larger than a jigsaw blade to drill pilot holes at the corners of the notch. Then use the jigsaw to cut out the notch. The pilot holes will allow room to make an easy 90-degree turn with the jigsaw blade.
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Last-Deck
THE LAST DECK YOU WILL EVER NEED
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last-deck requires no staining or sealing, just mild soap and
last-deck 300 series The 300 series is a patented,
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EXPERT ADVICE ON WORKING WITH TREATED WOOD
TREATED RIGHT Rob Pongonis, YellaWood brand manager, offers his expert advice on best practices when working with treated lumber. Backyard building is big business. For years, this trend in home-improvement has been on the rise, and now that people are spending more time at home, the trend is exploding. Decks, docks, pergolas, patios, outdoor kitchens and exterior furniture-these are the things than transform a backyard into an enjoyable living space. One of the most fundamental building materials for outdoor construction remains pressure-treated wood, which has undergone a process that uses high pressure to force a solution of water and preservatives deep into the lumber to extend its lifespan. The active ingredients commonly used in treated wood are alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ), copper azole (CA) or micronized copper azole (MCA),
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which react with the wood fibers to slow decay and resist termites, fungus, moisture and other harmful elements. This process enables treated fence posts, for example, to withstand years of being buried in soil. Treated wood is renewable and affordable and usually readily available, although the high demand of recent months might leave your supplier waiting on the next shipment from the mill. According to a July 9, 2020. article from the Wall Street Journal, “Prices for forest products like lumber and plywood have soared because of booming demand from home builders making up for lost time, a DIY explosion sparked by stay-at-home orders, and a race among restaurants and bars to install outdoor seating areas.”
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ONE OF THE MOST FUNDAMENTAL BUILDING MATERIALS FOR OUTDOOR CONSTRUCTION REMAINS PRESSURETREATED WOOD
Photo courtesy of YellaWood
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EXPERT ADVICE ON WORKING WITH TREATED WOOD
s Even when prices are up, treated wood remains one of the most economical outdoor building materials available.
Demand continues to rise because even when prices are up, treated wood remains one of the most economical outdoor building materials available. One of the leading manufacturers of treated lumber, Great Southern Wood Preserving—the makers of YellaWood brand treated products—is now celebrating its 50th anniversary in business. To get some expert advice on best practices when working with treated lumber, HIR turned to YellaWood brand manager Rob Pongonis to clear up a few questions. Whether you're a pro builder or a homeowner, here's some "insider" insight on what to consider when planning your next project.
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What should builders and homeowners understand about selecting different grades of treated lumber for a project? As a contractor, when you’re meeting with a homeowner to discuss a deck project, it’s important to listen and to ask as many questions as possible to ensure you understand exactly what they’re looking for from their investment. Most homeowners have a vision for their project that includes functionality and color but they often don’t fully consider the appearance of the deck boards. That’s why talking about grades, especially knots and other beauty factors, early in the process is so important. And many homeowners may not realize they have options when it comes to the appearance of deck boards. While many building supply stores stock a couple of grades, there are more options available through special orders that may better meet the homeowner’s expectations. Using a “Good, Better, Best” approach clarifies the options in an easy-to-follow way. When talking about deck boards, it is important to remember 5/4 decking is a popular choice and commonly available in
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• • • • •
Industrial strength tools, save time on every job Height adjustable handle, work standing up No pre-drilling required — even in Ipe Drive 1” to 3” screws, 150 screws per easy load coil Repeatable countersinking, set the depth and go
STAND UP TO THAT NEXT JOB...AND YOUR BACK AND KNEES WILL THANK YOU!
muro.com
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EXPERT ADVICE ON WORKING WITH TREATED WOOD
s
The AWPA recommends using Ground Contact treated products in any applications that are difficult to maintain, repair or replace and critical to the performance and safety of the structure. Photo ©YellaWood
two grades: Standard and Premium. The 5/4 Standard decking would fit into your “Good” category and will have some large, sound knots and some bark edges, whereas 5/4 Premium decking is a step up and would fall in your “Better” category. These products will have less bark and smaller, more well-spaced knots that appear less frequently than what appears on Standard grade. What is the latest advice on building applications that require ground-contact lumber? In 2016, the American Wood Protection Association (AWPA) wanted to address growing concerns around the incorrect usage of treated wood. They released a revised standard which governed the use of Ground Contact treated lumber. This revision required Ground Contact
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products to be used in some applications where Above Ground products had previously been approved. Today, the AWPA recommends using Ground Contact treated products in any applications that are difficult to maintain, repair or replace and critical to the performance and safety of the structure. This includes applications such as joists, beams and ledger boards. In addition, they require Ground Contact treated deck boards when placed closer than 6 inches to the ground, have poor air circulation or poor water drainage, or are exposed to frequent wetting like freshwater docks, sprinkler systems, or swimming pools and other such hazards. The good news is most building supply retailers helped take the guesswork out of this by stocking only Ground Contact treated lumber. However, it’s always a good idea to check the
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end tag to make sure it clearly states “End Use: Ground Contact” before beginning construction. Is it necessary to use peel-andstick flashing when treated wood is used in contact with aluminum products? YellaWood brand products are treated with a micronized copper preservative which exhibits corrosion rates on metal products similar to other non-corrosive treatments and untreated wood. Aluminum building products may be placed in direct contact with YellaWood brand products without the need of additional flashing as long as there is proper water drainage and the wood isn’t exposed to, or remains in contact with, a continual
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moisture source, standing water or water immersion. Editor's note: Not all wood is treated with the the same process, and some different copper-based preservatives used by other brands have been reported to cause corrosion when placed in direct contact with aluminum products, such as ledger-board flashing. This has prompted builders to isolate the aluminum from direct contact with the framing lumber by using a peel-and-stick membrane. Check with the lumber manufacturer for the latest guidelines on your specific product.
steel or stainless steel options. They are available in deck screws and trim screws in a variety of lengths.
What type of fasteners (type and materials) do you recommend for outdoor construction? When selecting fasteners and hardware, it is important to make sure you are in compliance with the manufacturer’s recommendations and building codes. In exterior applications, fasteners should be either Hot-Dip Galvanized (ASTMA153), Epoxy Coated Carbon Steel (Zinc Plated, AC-257) or Stainless Steel (304, 305 or 316). YellaWood Outdoor Fasteners are star-drive fasteners available in a tan epoxy-coated carbon
How deeply does the preservative treatment penetrate into a lumber product? Are thicker boards such as 4x4 or 6x6 any more susceptible than 2x lumber to rot or water damage by virtue of having more mass (and presumably less chemical absorption at their core)? There are certainly factors that play into how well the wood takes the treatment like the presence of heartwood and the moisture content, but the treatment process
Explain the best procedure for preserving the treated lumber when it has been cut on the job site. Sealing field cuts is a great idea to provide extra protection to your project. Preservative products can typically be found on the paint aisle at most home centers. Suggestions can include a copper naphthenate (2% as metal).
Cover your Cuts when Building Outdoors When it comes to sealing fieldcuts in treated lumber, here's what you need to know: The International Code Council recognizes American Wood Protection Association (AWPA) as the authority on treated wood. New AWPA Standards for preserving end-cuts in treated wood are now being referenced by the International Building Code and International Residential Code. This means building codes are changing. If your local municipality has not already adopted the new end-cut application as a requirement to meet building code, then they may do so in the near future.
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Home Improvement and Repair | The Deck, Patio & Landscape Issue
So, why the changes? When you trim the end off a piece of pressure-treated lumber, you expose the interior wood fiber to water, fungus and insects that would otherwise be protected against by the pressure treatment. Sealing the end cuts with an approved liquid preservative becomes an important way to protect your investment. The endcut treatment can be applied by sprayer, roller or brush. (HIR recommends back-brushing a sprayed finish to work the product into the wood grain.) The treatment should be liberally applied to dry wood. Allow the treatment to dry, and then apply a second coat. Sealing exposed ends is a simple process and exhibits quality workmanship, but that's not the only reason to do it. Many customers don’t realise that treated-lumber manufacturers back their warranty
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Whether stained or painted, treated wood is a versatile material that can achieve the look you want. Photo © YellaWood
on performance in exterior applications, provided you follow the best practices for handling and installation. And "best practices" now include treating the field cuts with an approved preservative. Check your product warranty and don't be surprised if you find verbage under "Requirements for Coverage" that reads: "Surfaces that have been cut or trimmed and other holes or damage should be treated with a wood preservative end-cut solution in accordance with the label’s directions. Acceptable wood preservatives contain a minimum of 0.675 percent copper as oxine copper (copper-8 or copper-8-quinolinolate) or 1 percent copper as copper naphthenate.” In other words, if you don’t coat your end cuts with a preservative— and use the correct preservative— then your treated-lumber structure may not be covered by the manufacturer’s warranty.
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Outlast Q8 Log Oil Are you waiting months for your pressure-treated deck to dry before staining? Did you know that the International Residential Code (IRC) now mandates during construction that you “heal” any drilled holes, abrasion, or end cuts on pressuretreated lumber? Either 1% Copper Naphthenate or .675% Copper 8 quinolinolate (aka Oxine Copper) will satisfy the new requirements. But Outlast Q8 Log Oil with .675% copper is the only product that addresses the wait time and the new code. With Q8 Log Oil, you can build it and stain it in the same day with no wait time. In fact, Outlast Q8 Log Oil is spelled out by name by many pressuretreaters themselves. Visit outlastproducts.com.
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is designed to drive the preservative deep into the cellular structure regardless of thickness. Following treatment, each charge goes through a rigorous quality control test. Core samples are drilled and tested to see both how deep the preservative went and how much of the preservative was retained in the wood. What’s more, we also have a contract with a thirdparty testing service that regularly inspects our products for quality (a service not all treaters subscribe to). And of course, we offer and proudly stand behind our warranty. What advice do you have for applying stain/sealers to an outdoor wood project? “When do I stain my deck?” is probably the top question we get from homeowners. The answer is simple: As soon as possible. In application, however, it’s a lot harder to predict. The wood has to be dry enough to accept the stain which can be impacted by factors like local weather patterns. The best way to tell if your boards are ready to be stained is to splash a few drops of water
Get Good Grades (of Treated Lumber) Lumber Grades… What are they for? Does your lumber pass or fail? Lumber grades are assigned at the sawmill where the logs are cut, and they're primarily graded on the strength of the board. For the most part, lumber is available in three tiers of quality: Good, Better, and Best. Good–Number 1 and Number 2 grades are commonly sold at local lumberyards. They have good strength ratings but also come with imperfections such as large knots, rounded bark edges, and some bowing or twisting. Number 1 will have fewer imperfections than Number 2. These grades are ideal for a costconscious DIY homeowner.
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on them. If it beads up, wait several days to test again. If the water absorbs into the wood, you’re good to go. When it comes to application, we recommend following the manufacturer’s instructions and testing the stain on a small area to make sure you’re happy with the color before expanding to the full area. Anything else you’d like to add? This year, Great Southern Wood Preserving, Inc. is celebrating its 50th anniversary—and we’re going big. We recently announced a two-year NASCAR partnership during which our YellaWood brand will be the title sponsor of the fall NASCAR Cup Series playoff race held at historic Talladega Superspeedway.
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Better–You’ve hit Prime time. The Prime grade of Number 1 and Number 2 lumber features the same strength properties, but are listed as Prime based on appearance (regarding the amount of bark on the edges or the number of knots). This lumber is a bit more expensive, but you get what you pay for. Best–To guarantee the most beauty for your back yard, choose either C & Better or Select Structural grade products. With these two grades you get the strongest lumber properties and better appearance. Knots will be small, few and farbetween, and there should be no bark on the edges. These best grades are also available in kiln-dried options, which eliminate the waiting
Home Improvement and Repair | The Deck, Patio & Landscape Issue
period typically required before painting or staining for “wet” lumber. The KDAT (kiln-dried after treatment) lumber is a high-grade wood product selected for its appearance, providing similar appeal to wood-composite boards while maintaining a genuinely natural look. Typically backed by a lifetime warranty, KDAT lumber offers a number of benefits. Not only is it ready to be painted, stained or sealed immediately, but the kiln-drying process reduces the lumber’s natural tendency to shrink, cup and warp, and it weighs less than freshly treated lumber. KDAT products are easier to handle, cut and install, have greater strength, more stiffness, and increased holding power.
Learn more at YellaWood.com
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Home Improvement and Repair | The Deck, Patio & Landscape Issue
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SKILL LEVEL
2 MODERATE
PAVERS, PLEASE By Carter Swift
The classic look of brick pavers is as popular as ever for residential patios. Interlocking paver patios and sidewalks remain among the most requested projects for hardscape professionals, and with the right materials and building procedures, DIY’ers can even construct their own to enhance the property and increase the value of their home. HIR offers three approaches to construction of your next patio.
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RIGID BASE PATIOS A paver patio can be built with two methods of constructing the sub-base. A patio with a rigid base has pavers installed over concrete. A patio with a flexible base is built with sub-layers of compacted gravel and sand. If you plan to upgrade an existing concrete patio, then half the work will already be done for you. The concrete will need to be flat and intact. Minor cracks and spalling can be repaired by squeegeeing a skim coat of a concrete resurfacing product over the patio, which can help level the surface for even paver installation.
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A resurfacing product such as Quikrete Re-Cap is designed for making thin layer repairs to worn or scaled concrete surfaces. HIRpub.com | Home Improvement and Repair
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the edges of the felt. Next, apply a second layer of felt over the first, oriented perpendicular to the first layer. The felt prevents the pavers from rocking when walked on. Complete the field by laying the pavers and pattern of your choice over the felt. Once finished, fill the joints with concrete sand.
The simplest approach to laying pavers on an existing rigid base is to begin with a soldier course as a border. Use thinner pavers that are 1-3/8 inches thick and made for this purpose. The “soldier course” is a line of bricks glued perpendicular to the edge of the concrete to frame your project and prevent the field bricks from moving around. Use four penny-size dots of masonry adhesive on the bottom of each brick to allow rainwater to pass beneath. Inside the soldier border, spread a layer of roofing felt over the concrete. Avoid overlapping
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FLEXIBLE BASE PATIOS When building from the ground up, the job gets more complicated. In fact, things can get fairly daunting, depending on how large of a patio you want. This is because the project requires a lot of heavy materials and the means to transport those materials. You can plan on a lot of digging and shoveling, so if hard physical labor isn’t your thing, you’d better call a pro. It’s also important to understand that compaction of the patio materials is absolutely critical. For small patios, you can use a hand tamper, but for large areas you’ll need to rent a plate compactor. Always make sure to build the patio with a consistent slope to drain water away from the home (1/4 in. per foot to allow for drainage). As a general rule, conventional pavers require about 4 inches of compacted crushed stone as a base for pedestrian use. The depth should measure 4 inches after compaction, which means the base begins with a loose bed about 6 inches deep spread evenly across the patio site. In harsh climates where ice heaving is a problem, the compacted bed should be deeper, even up to 8 inches. (Vehicular use requires a base between 8 and 12 inches deep). It’s a good idea for the bed of crushed rock to extend 6 to 10 inches beyond the finished paver surface. Before you start digging the site, call 811 to make sure the underground utilities have been located and marked. Dig deep enough to include the depth of crushed rock, an inch of compacted sand on top of that, plus the thickness of the paver itself. Excavate the site so the surface of the installed pavers will be located just slightly above the ground (typically between 8 and 12 inches deep). One trick is to place a paver at the anticipated patio elevation, then plant some stakes in the ground to lay out tight
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Begin construction of a flexiblebase patio by excavating the site and compacting the soil.
Spread the crushed rock evenly and compact it to a minimum of 4 inches. The boards shown will be buried in the gravel and sand to serve as a guide for a screed board.
s Add a bed of crush rock as the base.
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Add a layer of sand as a leveling bed and compact it. Use a very straight screed board to strike off excess sand and level the bed for the pavers.
Carefully place and level the pavers, using a rubber mallet to set them into the base. In this photo the workers did not use a sand bed, and as a result, it took much longer for them to level the pavers. s 42
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s Nibs on the edge of interlocking pavers leave consistent joints throughout the patio.
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Depending on your paver pattern and design of the patio, it might be necessary to cut the pavers. Rental outlets offer masonry wet saws to cut concrete and clay pavers.
string lines even with paver surface around the site perimeter. Use the string as a depth gauge when digging. Just measure down from the string until you’ve reached your required depth. Next, tamp down the soil with the hand tamper or plate compactor. Get used to this step, because you’ll need to repeat it each time you add a layer of patio material. Without proper compaction, both the subbase and pavers lack stability, causing shifting and compression. If this happens, some pavers will become higher or lower than others, resulting in an uneven surface. In areas that experience cold temperatures, the freeze/thaw cycle increases paver displacement. To avoid this, a compactor should go over each material layer three or four times to achieve proper compaction. After compacting the soil, spread the gravel and level it, then thoroughly compact the bed to the required depth. When very deep beds of gravel are required, compact the rock every 4 in. layer that you add. (Note: For clay- or silt-based soils, cover the compacted site in geotextile fabric before adding the crushed
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rock to ensure the most long-term durability of your patio base.) Next comes the layer of sand. Spread it evenly and compact the sand bed. Pro landscapers often use PVC pipe or very straight boards buried in the sand bed to serve as runners for a screed board. The screed board is used to strike off excess sand above the runners and achieve a very smooth surface for the pavers to rest on. After smoothing the sand, begin laying the interlocking pavers along the edge of the patio. Your choice of brick pattern and patio shape will impact how many bricks will need to be cut. A basket-weave pattern is ideal because full pavers can be used throughout a square or rectangular shaped patio. Using a running bond or 90-degree herringbone pattern in rectangular areas will require half-cuts.
Make Your Patio Project a Family Affair This flexible-base patio was constructed by three generations of the Weber family. Built on a slope, roughly half the patio is elevated over a slope with a segmental retaining wall built of hollow-core blocks, which interlock when the cores are filled with gravel. The walking surface at the opposite end is level with the lawn. The interior of the patio was built using the traditional crushed-rock base, sand bed and paver layer. Large projects like this one can require machinery to move the heavy landscaping materials. A tractor with a box blade came in handy to move and level the crushed rock and concrete sand.
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Fill the paver joints with concrete sand to interlock the floor, The final paver surface of a flexible-base patio should get two or three passes with the compactor to solidify the patio.
Continuously level the pavers during installation to keep a flat walking surface without high spots. Use a rubber mallet to set the pavers firmly. Next, install edge restraints, which can be metal or plastic landscape edging, or even halfburied blocks or vertical pavers. Compact all the pavers into the sand bed using a piece of scrap plywood, carpet, or a
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paver-to-paver contact and chipping. Concrete sand with coarse and angular particles works better than masonry sand, which has rounder, finer particles. The joints need to be full of sand to function properly and interlock the system.
plastic pad to protect them from chipping. Two to three passes are usually recommended to press the pavers into the sub-base. Once the patio is complete, fill all joints with paver sand to lock them in place. In a week or two, check to see if more sand is needed after it has settled. Joint sand provides the interlock and cushioning between pavers to prevent
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TIMBERTECH PAVER SYSTEM Although traditional concrete and clay pavers still lead the patio pack, a new alternative system uses synthetic pavers to simplify installation of both flexible and concrete-slab patios. Timbertech composite pavers are made from up to a 95-percent blend of recycled automobile tires and plastic containers. The pavers are also one-third the weight of concrete, making them much easier to move by wheelbarrow.
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Timbertech pavers also come in different thicknesses. The Resurface pavers have a thinner profile to cover old patios, and the Standard Landscape pavers are perfect for new patios and walkways with a flexible base. The Timbertech pavers also use a grid system that reduces installation time and makes it easier than manually setting and aligning heavy traditional pavers. The 16-by-16-in. grid also ensures straight lines and assists with a level layout. Plus, the composite pavers can be cut using a regular miter saw or jigsaw, so no wet saw is required. Learn more at www.timbertech.com.
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SKILL SET
By Matt Weber
To give a wood deck the best protection and to keep it looking good, you should maintain it with a quality stain/sealer. Here are some tried-and-true stain application tips we’ve learned over the years. DRY IT FIRST For newly constructed decks, it’s a good idea to let the wood weather before staining. For decks built with treated lumber, the waterborne preservative leaves moisture in the wood. This is why fresh PT lumber often arrives wet from the supplier, and the moisture can block penetration of stains and paints. For best performance of stain coatings, most stain/sealers recommend that treated wood dry 4 to 8 weeks prior to application after the decking is installed. Drying time depends on how much time has elapsed since chemical treatment, the wood’s exposure to the sun, ambient weather and temperature.
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PROTECT YOUR DECK
For decks built with exotic hardwood, the dense wood needs time to weather because the natural oils can block stain from penetrating. After construction, let the sun, wind and rain break down the surface of the wood, so the oils dry out and the stain will be more easily absorbed. The more the wood weathers, the easier it will be to stain the hardwood.
HERE ARE SOME TRIED-AND-TRUE STAIN APPLICATION TIPS WE’VE LEARNED OVER THE YEARS.
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s One a recent deck-sealing project, we used ZAR Deck & Siding Stain from UGL. This solid color stain/sealer is formulated with 100-percent acrylic resins and a unqiue alkyd blend for a long-lasting coating that shields against sun, rain, snow and even salt air.
There are a few exceptions to this general rule. New EPA-registered stain/sealers that meet the industry’s latest end-cut warranty requirements can successfully stain the entire deck during or immediately after construction. Check the product labels (and see sidebar on page 34). KEEP IT CLEAN All wood needs to be cleaned well before staining. It should be obvious that dirt or mud should be cleaned off before application, but brand new lumber should be cleaned to remove “mill scale” (crushed wood grain that occurs
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Home Improvement and Repair | The Deck, Patio & Landscape Issue
during the milling process and can prevent stain penetration). For the best-looking finish on an older deck, graying from the sun, mildew and old stains all need to be removed prior to staining. Oxygenated bleaches are highly effective at cleaning the wood, plus they won’t harm surrounding plant life and vegetation. Rinse off the bleach thoroughly. STRIP AND BRIGHTEN? For previously stained decks, stain strippers can help prep the surface. Formulated using sodium hydroxide, these chemical strippers can be effective at breaking down the surface
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PROTECT YOUR DECK
of the wood, opening its pores to make it more absorbent. If using a stripper, it’s also a good idea to use a wood brightener. A wood brightener will neutralize the effects of the stripper and, similar to the stripper, the brightener will help to open the porosity of the wood even further for the best stain penetration. Again, rinse thoroughly and give the deck time to completely dry for at least a day before staining. PROJECT TIMING Try to avoid applying stain in direct sunlight. The heated wood and sun both tend to dry the stain/sealer nearly as quickly as you apply the product, which can impede finish quality, and possibly reduce absorption into the wood. On the other hand, you should also avoid staining within 24 hours of rain, so staining on an over-cast day can be risky. Keep an eye on the forecast and use your best judgment. Morning and evening hours often make better application times than high noon.
s Working from the top down, I begin application to the guardrail using a stain pad. The ZAR solid stain has a thick, paint-like workability, plus it cleans up with water.
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TRY TO AVOID APPLYING STAIN IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT. TYPE OF STAIN Traditionally, oil-based deck stain/sealers have been considered the go-to choice for a long-lasting penetrating finish. However, water-based stains have made great strides in performance and can offer some real advantages--namely, they clean up with soap and water, and there are no harsh solvents to breathe. Research your product and check its warranty.
s For knots and checks in the wood, I use a paint brush to work the product deep into the wood grain for the best protection.
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SKILL SET Semi-transparent stains will allow the natural wood grain and color variation to show through the finish. Solid stains will give an opaque finish to the wood, which conceals the woodgrain but retains its texture. The choice is your, but make sure you understand the difference.
s I use a stain mitt to apply product to the spindles of the rail system. This method does a good job of spreading the sealer around all sides of the narrow boards, but I still had to follow up with a brush and/or stain pad to ensure even coverage. Make sure to wipe up drips and runs.
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Home Improvement and Repair | The Deck, Patio & Landscape Issue
READ THE CONTAINER Everything that you need to know about your product is on the back of the can. Take a few minutes to read it before you begin. Not all products are meant to be applied the same way. What is the drying time? How many coats should you apply? How much time between coats? Is there a critical re-coat time? BRUSHING IS CRITICAL You have options for application: brushes, rollers, sprayers, stain pads, etc. Regardless
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PROTECT YOUR DECK
s I like to "cut in" the edges of a deck surface just like on a painting project to keep the stain brush away from siding ad trim. Here, I'm using a paint shield as a moveable masking tool.
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s The best practice is to brush in the stain/sealer product to achieve the longest-lasting finish, and the Deck Boss from Perdura Brushes is the best tool I've found for the job. The thick bed of bristles retains plenty of product, the stiff bristles push sealer into the woodgrain, and the broad head spans both edges of a 1x6 deck board.
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of how you apply the stain, it is very important to brush the product into the wood grain. If you roll it on first, then back-brush it into the grain while it is still wet. The same applies for spraying. When you brush the stain, the brush creates a friction that breaks the surface tension of the wood and works the stain into the pores. This step achieves much better penetration of the stain. The more stain/sealer the wood absorbs, the longer the project will last before requiring maintenance coats. WIPE OFF EXCESS If you apply more stain than the wood can absorb, then wipe off the excess. When you apply too much stain, it puddles on the surface and looks bad because of the uneven tone. Furthermore, those spots are likely to flake and peel over time. Apply only as much stain as the wood can easily absorb. H
s The ZAR solid-color stain does a fine job concealing discolorations in the deck surface.
Here's the newly stained deck featuring the stain/sealer in a chocolate solid color tone.
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SKILL SET
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PRODUCT SHOWCASE
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JOB ESSENTIALS
SURE HOLD FASCIA BOARD SCREW SureDrive.com Sure Drive USA's new composite fascia-board screw installs without the need for an expensive countersink bit. The Sure Hold Fascia Board Screw has been designed with wings that auger through the fascia and trim board, creating an oversized hole. The oversized pilot hole allows for the expansion and contraction movement and keeps fascia-board panels straight. No pre-drilling is required to install the Sure Hold, which has a self-starting Type-17 auger tip that eliminates splitting. Made from strong 410-grade coated stainless steel, these screws will hold up to a variety of extreme weather conditions. The oversized flat-top head covers the oversized pilot hole while giving a modern finish with its raised cap. A variety of colors are available to match your composite fascia project.
TREX RAINESCAPE TrexRainEscape.com Trex RainEscape is an underdeck drainage system that uses a network of troughs and gutters to divert water from the deck. It shields the area below the deck from rain, snow, sun and other elements, providing 100-percent protection of the deck substructure from moisture. RainEscape helps the wood framing hold screws in place longer and allows finishing the space under the deck with utilities such as gas and electric, or even soffit lights. The product is easy to install and backed by a 20-year warranty.
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Home Improvement and Repair | The Deck, Patio & Landscape Issue
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PERMA-CHINK LOG & TIMBER DEFENSE Permachink.com Make your wood look new again for siding and trim, timber frames, beams, board and batten, rough-cut cedar, fences and more. Specifically formulated to inhibit mold and mildew growth, Perma-Chink Systems' new Log & Timber Defense technology provides a semi-transparent wood stain that provides the ease of application and penetration of the older solvent oils combined with the performance and longevity of a penetrating polymer-based finish. This unique combination penetrates into the wood like an oil coating, but unlike oils, it hardens into a lattice, supporting and strengthening the natural wood fibers to protect the wood from the inside out. Log & Timber Defense allows the texture and grain to show through and offers outstanding adhesion and durability. It's an environmentally friendly, low odor/lowVOC product that won't peel or flake and cleans up with soap and water.
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JOB ESSENTIALS
LEISURE TIME PRODUCT’S CABANA PERGOLA CabanaPergola.com Leisure Time Product’s Cabana Pergola with Conversation Seating by Backyard Discovery is a unique, all-in-one backyard structure created with your needs in mind. Turn the heads of guests at your next outdoor party with a new, versatile take on relaxing and entertaining. The open-concept design offers flexible applications for all settings, ideal for large or small yards, pools, fire pits, compact spaces and corners, or even a central focal point to a current outdoor space. The cabana pergola sets the tone with rich, mahogany-stained cedar wood and black, powder-coated steel accent plates. The black, powder-coated steel furniture frame is completely built-in for added strength and stability, while Sunbrella fabric cushions $600 OFF add long-lasting comfort. The lumber is pre-cut, pre-drilled and pre-stained for easy ANY ORDER! assembly.
VISIT CABANAPERGOLA.COM AND USE CODE
HIRPUB600
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Home Improvement and Repair | The Deck, Patio & Landscape Issue
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KEYSTONE HARDSCAPES’ PANORAMA DEMI 3CM PAVERS
KeystoneHardscapes.com Keystone Hardscapes’ Panorama Demi 3cm Pavers provide a versatile three-piece paver system ideal for renewing old patios, pool decks, pathways, courtyards, plazas and other concrete surfaces not exposed to vehicle traffic. The Panorama Demi 3cm Pavers feature three sizes (4x8-, 8-by-8-, and 8x12-in.) with textured surfaces and rounded edges for the look of weathered cut flagstone. Designed for repeating random runner and ashlar patterns, the Panorama line installs quickly over existing concrete surfaces. A simplified installation process allows builders to stay on schedule and requires limited labor. While Panorama Demi 3cm pavers are often referred to as remodeling pavers because of their height and ability to revitalize existing spaces, this paver system can also be used on its own to create new walkways and patios.
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BUILDING DRY-STACK STONE LANDSCAPE WALLS By Carter Swift The term “dry-stack” refers to a stone wall that appears to have been constructed without using mortar. A dry-stack landscape wall can integrate natural materials into the design of your outdoor living space. Although mortar can be used during construction of a dry-stack wall, it is hidden near the rear or interior of the wall, so only the natural rock is visible. The popularity of the dry-stack method is due in part to its versatility. A dry-stack wall can be integrated into a retaining wall system, used as a low-profile landscape border, or built as a freestanding wall.
When used as a retaining wall, a dry-stack wall will have maximum strength if it slopes in two directions. This means the face of the wall must batter (lean backward) into the slope it retains, usually about 1/2 to 1 inch per foot. The top course should also pitch slightly toward the slope with the outward edge of the rim as the high point. Note: For building sites that have steep slopes, consult a soil engineer or landscape professional to help design a plan to handle drainage and mitigate erosion. Some local building codes require soil engineers to approve plans for retaining walls above 4 feet tall.
Dry-stack stone can be used to border sidewalks, installed as decorative landscape edging, or even used for retaining walls.
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[STEP 1] Start with a 3-4” mortar bed.
[STEP 2] Place the largest stones on the bottom course.
[STEP 3] For the following courses, place the mortar along the back of the stones.
[STEP 4] Try to stagger the joints between courses.
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[STEP 5] Use a brick hammer to shape the stones as needed.
Home Improvement and Repair | The Deck, Patio & Landscape Issue
First step in constructing a dry-stack retaining wall is to excavate the ground in the rough shape you want the wall. Dig into the face of the slope at the same angle that the wall will batter. Another option is to construct the retaining wall at the bottom of the slope and then fill behind it with gravel and soil. In some cases, site and soil conditions require a combination of both methods, but in both cases, you should leave room behind the wall to add drainage gravel. The wall shown was made of several stone courses, the top of which was covered with the final layer of surface pavers. That final course of pavers was mortared onto the border wall and served as the capstone. After the wall was constructed, the bottom two wall courses were buried beneath a berm of compacted earth to help hold it in place along the slope. This short sidewalk border wall won’t retain much earth and water, but taller walls must support more weight and hydrostatic pressure that pushes outward against the wall. Therefore, taller walls require better drainage. GIVE IT A BREAK Working with natural stone means dealing with irregularly shaped building materials. You
[STEP 6] Small rock fragments can be used to fill gaps and strengthen the wall.
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BUILDING DRY-STACK STONE LANDSCAPE WALLS
[STEP 7] The wall will be backfilled with small stones and gravel.
need to envision the wall as a whole and the individual pieces required to assemble it. When those pieces are not readily available, you’ll need to break the stones into shape. In some cases, you’ll need a brick hammer to chip away projections from a stone to give it a flat surface on which to stack the following course. Sometimes you’ll need to dig out a trench beneath the first course to fit a rock that has an uneven bottom surface. You’ll often need to split the length or width of a rock to fit your wall design. These cuts are made on-site as needed with simple hand tools (not powered blades) to maintain the natural cleft face of the rock. The courses of stone are all laid in a 2- to 3-in. thick bed of masonry cement, applied along the rear edge of each course to keep the mortar hidden. The irregular shape of the stones leaves several gaps and voids in the wall. These voids should be filled with smaller rocks that are back-buttered with mortar and inserted to strengthen the wall and give it a more uniform appearance. The cut-off waste pieces are often used to fill these voids, but many of these gaps require pieces shaped with the brick hammer for a tight fit.
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[STEP 8] Crushed rock is applied and compacted for the sidewalk.
[STEP 9] The rock bed is leveled for the sidewalk pavers.
[STEP 10] Along the outer edge of the dry-stack wall, a row of pavers is mortared in place to serve as edging for the sidewalk.
[STEP 11] Freestanding dry-stack walls are built using two walls that lean against each other.
[STEP 12] Add backfill between the two walls then cap them with mortared stone.
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BUILDING DRY-STACK STONE LANDSCAPE WALLS Freestanding Dry-stack Walls A freestanding dry-stacked wall is constructed by building a double-sided sloped retaining wall where each side batters against the other, which presses the stones together and holds the wall upright. Make sure to plan for drainage around your walls. Shown below is the outlet for a drainpipe that runs beneath the stones so water can exit without pushing against the wall.
H Stone walls that retain water should be built to allow for drainage. The drain pipe shown extends down from a dry-stack stone fire pit.
Here’s the completed project: a flexible-base paver sidewalk supported on one side by a short dry-stack stone wall.
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Home Improvement and Repair | The Deck, Patio & Landscape Issue
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