Iceland Travel Road Book 2022 English by Iceland Travel

Iceland better than in pictures APPROACHING HJÖRLEIFSHÖFÐI | 63°28’19.3965“ N 18°34’57.9425“ W

Index

4 Make your stay in Iceland

Travel the North

Travel the North-West

101

Travel the Westfjords

113

Travel Snæfellsnes

123

Travel West Iceland

128

Travel the Interior

134

Events

from Vík to Höfn

140

Car Rental Information

Travel the East

146

Map of Iceland

Travel the Northeast

more enjoyable

8 Travel in and around Reykjavík 24

Travel Reykjanes

Travel the South-West

Travel the South Central

Travel the South Coast

58 Travel the South Coast;

Dear Visitor,

It is with great pleasure that I take this opportunity on behalf of Iceland Travel to welcome you to Iceland. Iceland Travel has successfully serviced the travel industry for decades, and I’m very proud to say that you are in the very best of hands. Iceland Travel’s team of experts are always ready to assist you throughout your journey, and our collective goal is that every minute of your time spent with us will be memorable and enjoyable. I have no doubt that you will take great delight in exploring our country and witnessing first-hand the countless wonders that lie ahead with every bend in the road. An endless list of dramatic landscapes, thundering waterfalls, luminescent glaciers and black sand beaches topped with rich culture and history, lie in wait to be discovered and experienced! It is our aim at Iceland Travel that you return to your homelands with many fond memories of your time spent with us in our beautiful country. On behalf of us all, may I wish you “Góða Ferð” and I hope you enjoy a wonderful holiday. Árni Gunnarsson, Managing Director

Make your stay in Iceland more enjoyable Please keep in mind that driving on the rugged Icelandic roads can be a difficult task. Please drive carefully as Iceland is an unspoiled country. Please tread lightly when you travel and remember the following:

•T he speed limit in populated areas is usually 50 km/hr. Speed limit signs are not posted unless it is other than 50 km/hr. The speed limit is often 60 km/hr on thruways, but in residential areas it is normally only 30 km/hr. The main rule on highways is that gravel roads have a speed limit of 80 km/ hr, and paved roads 90 km/hr. Signs indicate if other speed limits apply. If the speed limit is exceeded, high penalties will be imposed. •A ll passengers are required by law to use safety-belts and there are penalties for breaking this law. •P lease note that driving under the influence of alcohol is considered a serious offence in Iceland. The threshold blood alcohol test level is very low and there are severe penalties for breaking this law. •T he surface on the gravel roads is often loose, especially along the sides of the roads, so one should drive carefully and slow down whenever approaching an oncoming car. The mountain roads are also often very narrow, and are not made for speeding. The same goes for many bridges, which are only wide enough for one car at a time.

•S pecial warning signs indicate danger ahead, such as sharp bends, but there is generally not a separate sign to reduce speed. Please choose a safe speed according to conditions. •W atch out for the animals on or near the roads. Sheep and horses roam free in the summer, and you may see some wandering on rural roads. •N ever drive outside the marked roads. It can take centuries for nature to heal wounds caused by careless driving. Off road driving is illegal in Iceland. •T ake your garbage with you; never leave it in the unspoiled nature.

Important telephone numbers (country code: +354) Iceland Travel, Skógarhlíð 12, 105 Reykjavík

585 4300

Emergency phone at Iceland Travel

893 6115

The City Hospital

543 1000

Ambulance/Police/Emergency Doctor/Emergency Dentist

112

The Icelandic Road Administration

1777

Iceland Travel Customer Care

585 4550

If you have any questions, please telephone our customer care team at 585-4550 during office hours. In case of urgent matters, please phone the Iceland Travel emergency phone, which is open 24 hours a day.

Please note the following: •B reakfast is always included on your journey, but no other meals. Hotel check-in time is before 18:00. For later arrival please notify your hotel, by calling them in good time. In many accommodations in the countryside there are restaurants where you can get a nice dinner at a reasonable price. • In your PDF travel documents, you will find a detailed list of your accomodations including addresses. Your booking number is valid as your voucher. •D etour suggestions: You cannot do everything that is suggested. You need to choose between the sites mentioned depending on interest as time limits your possibilities. Important: Accidents incurred by crossing streams and rivers are exempt from insurance coverage. Driving off the main roads and on roads marked F is the renter’s own responsibility. While driving on such tracks, the renter is held totally responsible for any and all damage that may occur. The renter will also be held responsible for any expense due to towing and transporting a vehicle, if it is damaged in driving conditions such as those mentioned above. Please refer to your rental agreement for details.

Iceland Travel Environmental Policy The growth of tourism throughout the world inevitably impacts upon the fragile environment that the tourist is actually there to see and experience. Many of our tours, by definition, travel through a variety of different environments. We try to cause as little impact as possible during our journeys, and where possible, to act in such a way to benefit the local communities and environment. We understand the impacts that our operations may have, and pro-actively seek to ensure that our operations are as locally sustainable as possible. We are fully committed to adhere to Icelandic law concerning environmental issues. We show our continuing commitment to environmental sustainability by • • • • • • •

reserving the current resource base for future generations P Maintaining the productivity of the resource base Maintaining biodiversity and avoiding irreversible environmental changes Ensuring equity within and between generations Reducing waste by recycling and promoting responsible use of resources Preferring environmentally friendly suppliers and services Raise awareness among our staff and guides

We aim to adhere to these principles and continuously improve on our environmental policy. 6

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Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel in and around Reykjavík Reykjavík, the northernmost capital of the world, is by far the largest municipality in Iceland and the capital area is home to nearly two-thirds of the country’s population of around 350.000 people. Ingólfur Arnarson, Iceland’s first settler, built his farm on the peninsula where Reykjavík stands today. The town got its name – meaning ‘smoky bay’ – after columns of steam rising from hot springs in the area were mistaken for smoke. But it is the man dubbed the ‘Father of Reykjavík’, Skúli Magnússon, who is credited with triggering urban development in Reykjavík after he established wool workshops there in the 18th century, as part of an attempt to modernise the Icelandic economy. Reykjavík received its town charter in 1786. Modern Reykjavik boasts a wide array of exciting activities and attractions. The city is pure, clean and vibrant – the perfect setting for a relaxing, refreshing vacation. It features a multitude of top-class restaurants, outstanding cafés, sparkling nightlife and amazing attractions and activities within easy reach. This section presents some key highlights of the Greater Reykjavík Area, but it would be easy to write volumes on all the things to see and do, so we suggest calling our service desk for a more comprehensive listing. There we can assist you with information about bike rental, organised walking

tours of Reykjavík, bus excursions of the Reykjavík area (including flexible hopon-hop-off tours) and aerialsightseeing tours. If we had to pick five essentials for Reykjavík from everything listed below, they would be: visit Laugardalslaug swimming pool, or any one of the many swimming pools in Reykjavík, immerse yourself in Icelandic history at the Saga Museum, pop into the Reykjavík City Hall to see Iceland’s geographical features in perspective on the 3-D relief map of Iceland, and wander around the old city center to make your own discovery of a unique shop, gallery, museum, or café.

Downtown Reykjavík – walking distance Hallgrímskirkja church is the biggest and tallest (74.5 m. / 244 ft.) church in Iceland, and a handy point of reference if ever you’re lost in the downtown area. It was designed by the architect TRAVEL IN AND AROUND REYKJAVÍK

Guðjón Samúelsson, who was inspired by the volcanic basalt rock formations, formed by cooling lava, which can be seen all over Iceland. Building commenced in 1945 and the church was finally opened, more than four decades later, in 1986. The church gets it name from Reverend Hallgrímur Pétursson, Iceland’s most revered hymn writer; Hallgrímskirkja means ‘the church of Hallgrímur’. It is Reykjavík’s main landmark, and can be seen from almost everywhere in the city. This also means that you get an excellent view of the whole city from its steeple – an elevator takes you most of the way, for a small fee. New bronze and red-glass exterior doors (2010, designed by Leifur Breiðfjörð) lead to a gothic interior of high-pointed vaults and long, narrow windows. Concerts are held regularly at Hallgrímskirkja, making use of the church’s pride and joy: its organ. TRAVEL IN AND AROUND REYKJAVÍK

Renowned German organ builder Johannes Klais made the enormous 15-metre, 25-ton organ, which has 72 stops, 102 ranks and 5,275 pipes. A statue of Leifur Eiríksson – “Leif the Lucky” – stands in front of the church. Eiríksson was the first European to discover America, around A.D. 1000, and the statue was a gift from the U.S. to commemorate the 1,000th anniversary of Iceland’s parliament. Skólavörðuholt - hallgrimskirkja.is The Einar Jónsson Museum is the former home and studio of Iceland’s first and best-known sculptor, Einar Jónsson (1874–1954). Jónsson attended the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen from 1896-99 and identified with the romantic symbolists. He was a ground-breaking figure in Icelandic sculpture and his influence on the visual arts in Iceland has been considerable. His work reflects Icelandic folklore as well as classical human and

mythological figures. Jónsson offered all of his work as a gift to the Icelandic people in 1909 on the condition that a museum be built to house his artwork. He chose the location of the museum at the top of Skólavörðustígur on the outskirts of town (in those days). The museum was built according to a plan by the artist himself and it may be said that the museum building itself is his biggest sculpture. It included a residence for Jónsson and his wife, as well as a studio. The Museum was officially opened in 1923. The Einar Jónsson Museum is worth a visit even out of hours – at the back of the museum (entrance from Freyjugata) is a small park with 26 bronze castings of his work. Eiríksgata - lej.is The ASÍ Art Museum is a contemporary art gallery just around the corner from the Einar Jónsson Museum, run by the Icelandic labour union. The gallery exhibits contemporary Icelandic artists and selections from its permanent collection. We recommend checking their exhibition schedule when you’re in town. Ásmundarsalur at Freyjugata 41 listasafnasi.is The Culture House (Safnahúsið) is, in a nutshell, a key venue for the Icelandic national heritage. It is an architectural monument originally built to house the National Library and National Archives of Iceland, and was opened to the public in 1909. For several decades after that, it kept all the main treasures of the Icelandic nation under the same roof. The Culture House is now a heritage building that serves as a common center for Icelandic cultural

heritage institutions, with high-quality exhibitions on selected national treasures. The current exhibition takes you on a journey through Iceland’s visual legacy, a collaboration between Iceland’s leading museums, this exhibition offers a guide to this nation’s cultural history. Hverfisgata 15 - safnahusid.is Food, Glorious Food! Reykjavík happily has many very good restaurants and quite a few excellent ones too. There are too many to list here, but a couple you might otherwise overlook are worth mentioning. Þrír Frakkar (meaning both ‘three overcoats’ and ‘three Frenchmen’) is a classy but cozy restaurant a few minutes walk from the main street. From the ptarmigan paté to the skyr brulée, the food is mouthwateringly superb (bookings recommended, 3frakkar. com). Alþingi (Parliament) was founded at Þingvellir in 930 and held its sessions there until 1799, when it was discontinued for some decades. Alþingi was restored in 1844 and moved to the capital city Reykjavík, where it has been held ever since. In 1881, Alþingishús (Parliament House) was built, and is now one of the oldest stone buildings in Iceland. Behind the building is one of Iceland’s oldest parks: the Parliament House Garden. Austurvöllur Square. Tjörnin means ‘The Pond’ but it is more like a small lake, and is pronounced something like ‘chertnin’. It is situated in the heart of Reykjavík and makes for a very pleasant walk. Surrounding buildings include the TRAVEL IN AND AROUND REYKJAVÍK

National Gallery of Iceland, the Reykjavík Town Hall and the Fríkirkjan Church. The stream of water that runs out into the harbor from Tjörnin was originally uncovered, but is now hidden beneath Lækjargata Street. Tjörnin attracts dozens of species of birds, and many swans, geese, ducks and arctic terns nest there, adding to the pond’s beauty and its popularity as a place for families to visit. During winter, the pond often freezes over and people go skating and play ice-hockey. Hot geothermal water is pumped into a small area of Tjörnin during winter to keep a small part frost-free for the birds. Reykjavík City Hall (Ráðhús) was inaugurated in 1992, but discussions of whether or not to build a city hall in Reykjavík started as far back as 1799. The modern grey structure, softened by moss-covered walls and surrounded by water, is the result of an international TRAVEL IN AND AROUND REYKJAVÍK

architectural competition that was won by Studio Granda. Tjörnin, “the pond” in the heart of the old city centre, was considered a worthy setting for a building symbolising the city’s status as the capital of Iceland. The Reykjavík City Hall houses the Mayor and the executive officials of Reykjavík. Inside, we recommend seeing the huge 3-D relief map of Iceland. It’s a great place to see the country in perspective and make sense of all those mountains, glaciers, valleys and fjords. There’s also a tourist information desk and a café with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the pond. The National Gallery of Iceland was founded in 1884 by Björn Bjarnason in Copenhagen, and consisted of donated artwork mainly from Danish artists. The Museum remained an independent institute until 1916 when Alþingi (the Icelandic Parliament) decided to make it a department of

the National Heritage Museum. In 1987 the collection was moved to its present location. The main emphasis of the collection is on 19th and 20th century Icelandic art, but international art is featured as well. The museum holds the most valuable repository of works by Icelandic artists in the country, and also includes works by internationally renowned artists such as Pablo Picasso, Edward Munch, Karel Appel, Hans Hartung, Victor Vasarely, Richard Serra and Richard Tuttle. Instead of a permanent exhibit, the gallery constantly rotates exhibits from the permanent collection. The basement level has a nice area with drawing materials to keep children occupied. Fríkirkjuvegur 7 - listasafn.is The Reykjavík Art Museum has three branches spread across the city. It was founded in 1973 and is the largest visual art institution in Iceland. The mission of its Harbor House Museum (Hafnarhús) is to present contemporary art in its many manifestations. This museum, accommodated in a renovated 1930s warehouse, also houses the Erró Collection, by Iceland’s most celebrated modern artist, renowned for his large-scale comic-book-style montages. There’s a wonderful reading room with hundreds of art books, children’s toys, large chess set and a view over the harbor. Tryggvagata 17 artmuseum.is

MUSEUM, GALLERY OR FLOCK OF SHEEP? A WORD COLLECTOR’S INSIGHT Although we’ve listed the official English name of galleries and museums wherever possible, you may be wondering why so many Icelandic galleries are called ‘museums’. The reason is simply that the word for museum and gallery is the same in Icelandic: safn. Strictly speaking, safn means ‘collection’, which makes sense when you think of an art gallery being a collection of art (listasafn) and a museum being a collection of artefacts (minjasafn). But if you’re discussing the term with a sheep farmer, keep in mind that safn can also mean ‘flock of sheep’!

In 2004, the National Museum of Iceland re-opened its doors after extensive refurbishment, and the modernized museum offers a wider variety of services to its guests including interactive elements. The museum increases and relays knowledge of Icelandic cultural heritage from the nation’s settlement through to the modern day. The museum is modern and progressive, providing a comprehensive picture of the past 1200 years of Iceland’s cultural history. The ground floor of the National Museum houses the National Gallery of Photography, which emphasizes the Iceland of days gone by. There’s also a café on the ground floor, and the museum shop, which has a more interesting selection of souvenirs than many tourist shops, given its attempt to offer history-related objects. Suðurgata 41 - natmus.is

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The Reykjavík City Museum is at two locations: the The Settlement Exhibition in the city centre, and the open-air Árbær Museum in the outer city. The museum collects and conserves objects from Reykjavík’s cultural history, and carries out research on them. Its role is also to enhance interest, understanding and respect for the history of Reykjavík. In 2001, construction workers came across the remains of a Viking longhouse. It turned out to be the oldest known evidence of human habitation in Reykjavík, dating from 871, plus or minus 2 years. The excavated ruin is now the draw-card exhibit of the The Settlement Exhibition, surrounded by a digital projection that brings the longhouse back to life. The museum promulgates knowledge of the history and living conditions of people of Reykjavík from the Settlement Age to the present day. Aðalstræti – borgarsogusafn.is TRAVEL IN AND AROUND REYKJAVÍK

The Old Harbor Harpa concert hall and conference center is a striking new addition to the picturesque Reykjavík harbor. Harpa opened in 2011, and offers a diverse range of performances, from classical to contemporary, rock, pop and jazz. It is home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera, as well as serving as a tourism and business hub, providing flexible facilities for programs and international events. Harpa’s façade was designed by renowned visual artist Olafur Eliasson, and is regarded by many as a symbol of Iceland’s renewed dynamism. Of particular interest to foreign visitors are the concerts held over summer that double as potted histories of Icelandic music. harpa.is

At Grandagarður 2, the privately run Saga Museum conveys Icelandic history with a successful blend of entertainment and educational value. Audio tours guide visitors through installations populated by lifelike silica human figures: Vikings feuding, witches burning at the stake, Iceland’s last Catholic bishop being beheaded – and no holds barred on the gore! sagamuseum.is Other places of interest along the harbor include the Saturday and Sunday Kolaportið flea market, with a fish market offering visitors a taste of pickled salmon, fulmar eggs, and fermented shark; the Reykjavík Museum of Photography (free) above the City Library; Reykjavík Maritime Museum (‘The Sea Baron’) for the best lobster soup in the most unaffected restaurant in town and the little cluster of shops and cafés in this area that visitors often remain oblivious to. The harbor is also the departure point for whalewatching, puffin-watching and seaangling tours. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is Photography Museum Tryggvagata 15. photomuseum.is

located on Sæbraut, by the sea close to the center of Reykjavík. It is a common misunderstanding that the Sun Voyager is a Viking ship. It is quite understandable that many tourists think like this when travelling in Iceland, the land of the sagas. Nonetheless, it should be stressed that this was not the original intention. The Sun Voyager is a dream boat and an ode to the sun. During the bright nights of summer it is popular to visit the site in the evening to enjoy the midnight sun. The sun voyager is located just east along the water from Harpa concert hall.

Just outside the downtown area Höfði House was imported from Norway and reconstructed at its current location in 1909. Many such ‘catalogue houses’ were imported to Iceland around that time, but Höfði is without a doubt one of the most beautiful and best-preserved. Jean-Paul Brillouin, a French consul, had been sent to Reykjavík to safeguard the interests of French fishermen, whose presence in Icelandic fishing grounds in the 19th and early 20th century was very strong. It was Brillouin who ordered the house

Reykjavík Maritime Museum Grandagarður 8. sjominjasafn.is Whales of Iceland Fiskislóð 23-25. Whalesoficeland.is Northern Lights Center Grandagarður 2. aurorareykjavik.is The Sun Voyager (Sólfarið) is a striking sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason

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and to this day there are many signs of its original purpose, such as the letters RF (French Republic) above an inside door. Höfði is currently used for official receptions and meetings. It is owned by the city of Reykjavík and not open to casual visitors, but is pretty to see from the outside if you’re passing by Borgartún, just east of the Sun Voyager sculpture (above). Borgartún. HISTORY MADE AT HÖFÐI HOUSE Of all the famous people who have visited Höfði over the years, the most eminent visitor is probably Sir Winston Churchill when he came to Iceland in 1941. Among other visitors to Höfði are Marlene Dietrich, who came to Iceland during the 2nd World War, and various European heads of government and heads of state. In 1986, the meeting of Presidents Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev at Höfði house is considered a very significant step in the events leading up to the end of the Cold War. During the meeting of the two presidents, Höfði became so celebrated that a Japanese millionaire decided to have an exact replica of the house built in Japan.

The Pearl (Perlan) sits atop Öskjuhlíð hill, supported by six huge waterstorage tanks, each with a capacity of four million litres. Perlan was originally designed by Ingimundur Sveinsson, and opened in 1991. A glass dome gives the building its pearl-like look. The wooded Öskjuhlíð hill on which Perlan sits has a number of walking paths that are popular with city-dwellers in need of some greenery. Perlan has a 360 ° viewing deck on the fourth floor. TRAVEL IN AND AROUND REYKJAVÍK

The viewing deck offers an awesome view of Reykjavik and the neighboring communities and the mountain ranges around the city. Perlan also features a lovely restaurant and café featuring local ingredients. In Perlan’s new Wonders of Iceland geological museum, you’ll find Iceland´s first interactive glacier exhibition - you will even get the chance to experience walking through one of them. perlan.is

At the shore south of Perlan, is the imported yellow sand of Nauthólsvík Beach, where hot water from the city’s geothermal heating system is pumped into the ocean to bring the temperature up to 15-19°C / 59 -66°F. Families flock here on warm days to sunbathe and splash around in the hot tubs (30-39°C / 85-102°F). There are showering facilities, lockers and refreshments available during opening hours, but the beach itself is always open. nautholsvik.is If you’re looking south-west from Perlan, across the Skerjafjörður Fjord, you may notice a cluster of stately buildings on an otherwise uninhabited peninsula. The peninsula is called Bessastaðanes, and Bessastaðir is the official residence of the Icelandic president. The building at Bessastaðir 15

was built in the 1760s and was used as a school until 1867. After that it was home to various well-to-do families until 1941, when it was donated to the Icelandic state to serve as the future residence of Icelandic presidents. It is rarely open to the public. The church at Bessastaðir was consecrated in 1796 and is among the oldest Icelandic buildings made of cemented stone, but Bessastaðir had been the site of a church much earlier, with the first church built there around the year 1000. At the Kjarvalsstaðir branch of the Reykjavík Art Museum is a permanent exhibition of key works by one of Iceland’s most beloved landscape painters, Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval (1885-1972). The modernist building also holds temporary exhibitions that explore many thematic and historical aspects of Icelandic art. It is devoted to exhibiting the work of well established Icelandic and international painters and sculptors. Flókagata - artmuseum.is

Viðey Viðey Island is only a few minutes away from Reykjavík by ferry. The island has a long and colorful history but is also popular for its nature and, since 2007, for the Imagine Peace Tower (see boxed text). At 11.7 km2 / 18.2 sq. feet, with its highest point rising 32 meters (105 feet) above sea-level, Viðey is well vegetated and home to about 160 species of higher plants. Over 30 species of birds have been counted there including many ground-nesting birds, so watch your step. People first lived on Viðey in the 10th century and a church was built on the island in the 12th century. An Augustine monastery was established at Viðey in 1225, and abolished in 1539 at the start of the Reformation in Iceland. Viðeyjarstofa is the first cemented stone building in Iceland; it was constructed on Viðey in the year 1755 and is now home to a café and restaurant. The country’s second oldest such building still standing is the church on Viðey, which was consecrated in 1774. Viðey’s last permanent inhabitant left in the year 1943. videy.com

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VIÐEY’S BEACON OF PEACE The Imagine Peace Tower on Viðey Island is a touching tribute to the life and work of John Lennon. The artwork is comprised of a number of separate lights that merge to form a single beam that reaches far into the night sky. The strength, intensity and brilliance of the light tower continually change as the air fluctuates with the prevailing weather, atmospheric conditions and light. The Imagine Peace Tower is conceived as a type of wishing well, with the words “Imagine Peace” inscribed on it in 24 languages. Legendary artist, musician and peace advocate Yoko Ono and her son Sean Lennon inaugurated the Imagine Peace Tower on the anniversary of John Lennon’s birthday, the 9th of October 2007. It is dedicated to the memory of Lennon as a beacon of world peace, and is lit every year between sunset and midnight from October 9 until December 8, the day Lennon died, as well as for other special occasions.

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“I hope the Imagine Peace Tower will give light to the strong wishes of World Peace from all corners of the planet, and give encouragement, inspiration and a sense of solidarity in a world now filled with fear and confusion. Let us come together to realize a peaceful world.” – Yoko Ono.

A short drive or bus-ride from the city centre Laugardalur valley, east of the city centre, is very popular with visitors for its big geothermal swimming pool – the largest in Iceland –, domestic zoo, botanic gardens and the Ásmundarsafn branch of the Reykjavík Art Museum. There is also a skating arena, youth hostel, campsite, the Laugardalshöll sports stadium and concert venue, and the luxury Laugar Spa in Laugardalur.

Laugardalur means ‘hot spring valley’ and is believed to be the main source of steam that first settler Ingólfur Arnarson saw when he named Reykjavík (‘smoky bay’). Those same hot springs now heat the Laugardalslaug Pool’s outdoor swimming areas, hot tubs, steam rooms and Olympic-size indoor pool. Sundlaugavegur 30 – sundlaugar.is The Reykjavík Family Park & Zoo includes most Icelandic animals, both wild and domesticated. From reindeer, seals, and arctic foxes, to cattle, sheep and horses. There’s also an aquarium showcasing North Atlantic creatures of the deep. The park has rides and play equipment for children, and ‘Science World’ – a hands-on exhibit where you can measure your scream in decibels or make a giant soap bubble from the inside! Múlavegur 2 – mu.is Right next to the zoo is Grasagarðurinn, Laugardalur’s botanic gardens, where you can see all kinds of birdlife and flora in a gorgeous setting of parkland, ponds and fountains, or have a coffee at Café Flora. cafeflora.is The Reykjavík Art Museum’s Ásmundarsafn is a sculpture museum and sculpture garden in the Laugardalur Valley. The futuristic house was once the studio of pioneering Icelandic sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893 – 1982), who designed and built the building himself in the 1940s. Sveinsson’s work reflects that he was influenced by Henry Moore and the cubists, often drawing from Icelandic folklore, and ranging from human forms to pure abstractions. Sigtún – artmuseum.is 18

ICELANDIC POOL CULTURE we haven’t mentioned all the great public thermal pools in Iceland because there’s one in almost every town, and there are 18 in the Greater Reykjavík Area alone! For many Icelanders, a trip to the local pool is a part of their daily ritual. Working people often start their day at the pool, parents head there after school to let their kids splash around in the wading pools or work off some energy on the water slides, and party-goers often turn up in the evening to refresh before a big night out. It has obvious health benefits (is this the secret to Icelanders’ longevity?!) and also serves a social purpose, with locals using their time in the hot tubs to swap news and discuss politics.

Don’t let bad weather put you off either – rain or snow are good reasons to head to the pool, not to avoid it. Pools have changing rooms, lockers and showers with free soap – there are strict hygiene requirements, complete with posters explaining which parts of your body in particular you are required to wash! And if you’re reading this, thinking, “Oops, I forgot my swimming costume,” it’s no problem: most pools offer swimsuit and towel rental. See swimminginiceland.com for pool locations and opening hours all around Iceland. TRAVEL IN AND AROUND REYKJAVÍK

The Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum celebrates the life and work of Icelandic sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson (1908–1982). Ólafsson’s sculptures span several periods of 20th century art, range in form from formal busts to chaotic arrangements of wooden pieces. The private museum was once the artist’s coastal home and studio, and was converted into a museum by his widow, Birgitta. The museum and its relaxing café enjoy peaceful harbor views. Laugarnestangi 70 – lso.is

Árbær Museum (Árbæjarsafn) is an open-air folk museum in the Elliðaár Valley, a 15-minute drive from the city centre. The re-created historic village is built around a traditional farm and the other buildings transported to the site include an 1842 church. During summer, staff at Árbær dress in period costume and carry out tasks such as milking cows, weaving wool, and cooking traditional Icelandic pancakes. Guided tours are especially recommended (free with paid admission) so you can be sure to learn useful life skills such as how to smoke meat with sheep manure (you’ll be even more alarmed when you learn that this method is still practiced today!). Kistuhylur borgarsogusafn.is

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Mosfellsbær Mosfellsbær (pop. almost 9,000) is north-east of the capital. The pride and joy of this town is without a doubt the Nobel Prize winning author Halldór Kiljan Laxness, born and raised in Mosfellsbær. Halldór Laxness and his literature are an important part of Iceland’s culture. Laxness was an incredibly prolific writer, and his works have been translated into over forty languages. His home on the outskirts of Mosfellsbær was converted into a museum in 2004: Gljúfrasteinn, the Halldór Laxness Museum. The museum’s 25-minute audio tour comes highly recommended – it walks you through the house with a lovely balance of the historical and the personal. The house also becomes a Sunday afternoon concert venue during summer. Rte. 1 through Mosfellsbær, then right onto Rte. 36. gljufrasteinn.is - tel: 586-8066 Horse riding. If you’d like to see more of Mosfellsbær’s picturesque pastureland, horseback riding is a great choice. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is

TRIANGLE BRIDGE AND ESJA MOUNTAIN | 64°7’35.0256“ N 21°50’37.3416“ W

Esjan

Kópavogur

Esja is a mountain just outside Mosfellsbær, 15 minutes from Reykjavík by car, popular with climbers aiming for its 914-metre / 2999-foot summit, and with walkers and families who tend to stick to the pretty wooded areas and gentle slopes at its base. Esja is commonly referred to as a mountain, but is really a volcanic mountain range made from tuff rock and basalt, ranging from about 1.8 to 3.2 million years old. Esja’s main trails are wellmarked and present no real challenges beyond maintaining enough stamina to make it to the top! Those who do make it are never disappointed with the view. Car parking area off Rte. 1, NE of Reykjavík

Kópavogur is Iceland’s second largest municipality with a population of around 33,000 and is part of the Greater Reykjavík Area. Kópavogur – meaning “seal pup cove” – only became a substantial settlement during the 1930s, when authorities began allocating land on the peninsula. The town has grown steadily ever since.  Iceland’s tallest building is located in downtown Kópavogur, dubbed Turninn – ‘The Tower’, and overlooks Iceland’s biggest shopping mall, Smáralind – smaralind.is.

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Another noteworthy building in Kópavogur is Salurinn, the Kópavogur Concert Hall. The building’s exterior incorporates planks of driftwood, gathered from all around the Icelandic coast, and inside is a state-of-the-art concert hall with excellent acoustics. We recommend checking the line-up, especially if you’re a fan of classical or choral music. Hamraborg 6 - salurinn.is

GRÓTTA LIGHTHOUSE | 64°9’51.2165“ N 22°1’12.6102“ WWV

Seltjarnarnes, Garðabær & Álftanes Seltjarnarnes, Garðabær & Álftanes are all municipalities in the Greater Reykjavík Area and have a combined population of around 18,000. Seltjarnarnes is the peninsula town sticking out from the north-western side of Reykjavík. It’s hard to find a house here that doesn’t have a great ocean view, as everywhere in Seltjarnarnes is a stone’s throw from the beach. Sticking out from its own north-western side like an appendix to an appendix is Grótta Island, a haven for birds, closed for the nesting period during May and June. Garðabær, south of Reykjavík, has been inhabited since the 9th century, beginning primarily as a farming settlement, but with some fishing too. There are many nature reserves in and around Garðabær, making it especially popular with walkers. South-west of Reykjavík is the peninsula and town of Álftanes, perhaps best known for its proximity to the Icelandic president’s official residence at Bessastaðir.

excellent natural harbor. Its port has been trading continuously for more than 600 years. Today Hafnarfjörður remains one of the nation’s largest fishing centres, but to many it is best known as the home of the annual Viking Festival in June. This festival sees tunic-clad Viking enthusiasts come together from all over the world to wrestle each other (glíma), re-enact Viking battles, and then drink mead together afterwards. The Viking Festival has its home base at the Viking Village, which also runs a Viking-themed restaurant and hotel. Strandgata 55, vikingvillage.is

Hafnarfjörður Hafnarfjörður is one of Iceland’s oldest towns and its third most populous municipality, with a population of around 28,000. This population count does not include “hidden people” such as elves, of which there are reported to be a great deal living in this town. Hafnarfjörður – meaning “harbor fjord” – owes much of its prosperity to its TRAVEL IN AND AROUND REYKJAVÍK

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel Reykjanes Exploring Reykjanes gives you a taste of many quintessentially Icelandic marvels: the site of the Geldingadalur volcano which began erupting in March 2021, hot springs, lava fields, crater lakes, geothermal fields, waterfalls and, of course, the Blue Lagoon. The region also boasts a wide range of outdoor activities and some excellent museums and cultural centres. One of the obvious charms of Reykjanes is its proximity to Reykjavík, making it ideal to visit for visitors basing themselves in the capital. But it is easily overlooked by travelers sticking to the city limits, and those keen to see the whole country who head north or east, forgetting about the beautiful peninsula to the south-west! The upshot of this is that the area remains relatively unexplored and you may well find yourself completely alone in the middle of a steamy geothermal field or at the top of a lighthouse. Reykjanes has many spectacularly situated lighthouses along its wild coast, including Iceland’s oldest lighthouse, Reykjanesviti, dating back to 1878, and the country’s highest at Garðsskagi. Garðsskagi lighthouse Reykjanes lighthouse Reykjanes Auxiliary lighthouse Old and new Garðskagi lighthouse Selvogur lighthouse Stafnes lighthouse Sandgerði lighthouse Hólmsbergs lighthouse Vatnsnes lighthouse 24

Gerðistangi lighthouse Hopsnes lighthouse Krýsuvík lighthous

Travelling Reykjanes counter-clockwise The mountain Keilir was created by sub-glacial eruptions during the ice age and is one of the first things you’ll notice in the distance as you head for Reykjanes peninsula on Rte. 41. According to geologists, Keilir’s distinctive cone shape probably means it’s a crater plug. In spite of its steep slopes, the mountain is not too difficult to climb, and the view from the summit on a fine day is unforgettable. Keilir is Reykjanes’ most distinctive landmark and a symbol of the whole peninsula. It’s often visible from Reykjavík, most notably from Suðurgata, looking west along the street from the National Museum. On top of the mountain is a concrete table with a map on a metal plate explaining the view in all directions. TRAVEL REYKJANES

Keflavík The vast majority of visitors – anyone arriving by plane – will get a glimpse of Reykjanes when they first arrive, but Keflavík is much more than an oft mispronounced airport (the ‘f’ is pronounced ‘p’). Apart from being a town with its own attractions, Keflavík is also an ideal base from which to explore the peninsula. It’s a wonder more visitors don’t stay in Keflavík and treat Reykjavík as a day trip, rather than the other way around! In early September, the sea cliffs are dramatically lit up for the “Night of Lights,” followed by music and fireworks. To reach the town of Keflavík, just head for the airport on Rte. 41 and follow the signs to turn right before (or even at) the airport intersection roundabout. The NATO military base at Keflavík (1951-2006) was on the airport side of Rte. 41, but it’s years now since this was officially abandoned, meaning Iceland no longer has any military forces on its territory. In the wake of the closure, the area has turned to ventures revolving around green energy, logistics, data processing and health, to name a few. But Keflavík also maintains a lively fishing industry, as does the neighbouring town of Njarðvík. Together with Hafnir, these towns form the municipality of Reykjanesbær with a combined population of over 18,000. A Giantess in the Mountain has been living in Black Cave at the northern edge of Keflavík’s marina in Gróf, since the family and culture festival “Ljósanótt” (The night of lights) in 2008. TRAVEL REYKJANES

She is the creation of writer Herdís Egilsdóttir, who has written 16 children’s books about a little girl called Sigga and her friend the Giantess in the mountain. She’s a full-size giantess, designed by the Norðanbál art group, and sits dozing in a rocking chair in her kitchen, with a spectacular view over the bay and marina. Duus Hús. This cultural and arts center contains the Reykjanes Heritage Museum, the Reykjanes Art Gallery and Grímur Karlsson’s Model Ship Exhibit. The model ship exhibit is very popular and includes more than 200 60cm to 1.5m models of Icelandic fishing vessels. Since his retirement in 1984, Grímur Karlsson has constructed the models, which are painstakingly detailed and capture the beauty and individual character of the vessels. In 2009, Grímur was awarded the Order of the Falcon, Iceland’s highest honour, in recognition of the cultural value of his work. Duusgötu 2-8 - duusmuseum.is LOCAL TIP – SCENIC VIEW if you feel like being outside in the fresh air after soaking up some of the culture at Duus Hús, just north of the center is a scenic walking path along the cliff top. You can almost always see Reykjavik in the distance, and Snæfellsjökull Glacier too on a clear day.

Njarðvík If you follow the waterfront south from Keflavík, you can visit the adjacent town of Njarðvík. One of this town’s popular attractions is Viking World,

a spectacular modern building which offers a unique look at the Viking ship The Icelander – Íslendingur – with a backdrop of the surrounding bay. The ship was built by Gunnar Marel Eggertsson as an exact replica of the Viking ship Gokstad, which was found almost completely intact in Norway and excavated in 1880, and is thought to have been built around 870.

The Icelander is an extraordinary achievement and took 2 years to build, between 1994 and 1996. It’s 5.25m / 171ft wide, 23m / 75 ft. long, has a holding capacity of around 80 tons, a 130 m2/1400 sq. ft. sail, and an 18m / 59ft. mast. The ship is made out of pine and oak because scholars believe that this was the most common type of wood used to build boats during the Viking Age. In the year 2000, Gunnar sailed with a crew of 8 people from Iceland to New York, thanks to a grant from the Leifur Eiríksson Commission of Iceland. They set off on the journey of 4200 nautical miles on Iceland’s Independence day, the 17th of June, garnering world wide attention. Details and photos of the building of the ship and its journey across the Atlantic are displayed alongside the impressive 26

ship. Viking World also hosts part of the Smithsonian Institution’s Viking millennium exhibition – Vikings: The North Atlantic Saga – shedding light on Norse settlement and exploration. Vikingabraut 1 – 260 Reykjanesbæ – vikingaheimar.is

Garður & Garðskagi Garður, meaning “wall” or “garden”, is the northernmost town on the peninsula on Rte. 45. It was founded in 1908 and named after one of the many earth walls which rose on the boundaries between properties (some of them visible to this day). Garður is rich in wild birdlife and you can also spot dolphins and whales just near the shore. The area is best known for its two lighthouses and folk museum, outside town at the rocky point of Garðskagi. If you follow the coast toward the lighthouse in the distance, there’s also a pretty church, Útskálakirkja, along the way. Garðskagaviti, the larger lighthouse at Garðskagi, is the tallest in Iceland; the outmoded 1897 lighthouse stands close by. Built in 1944, Garðskagaviti was a gift from American servicemen grateful for being rescued from a sinking U.S. Coast Guard vessel. Visitors can climb steep, narrow stairs and through a trap door to the 360-degree lookout platform. Next to the lighthouse is a small museum featuring boat engines, old radios, a homemade organ and other olden-day novelties, as well as a café. Garðskagi.

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Sandgerði On the western side of the Reykjanes peninsula, still on Rte. 45, is Sandgerði, Iceland’s youngest town (officially established 1990) and one of its major fishing communities, with rich fishing grounds found just off the coast. Southwest Iceland Nature Research Centre, at the north end of town, includes unusual natural history specimens such as barnacles, shark eggs, a walrus, and hosts research on marine invertebrates. Kids can go to the beach, gather seawater and bugs, and examine them under microscopes.

Archaeology buffs, in particular, may wish to visit Hvalsneskirkja Church, 5km south of Sandgerði. The church itself has been beautifully restored, but the item of most interest is a seventeenthcentury gravestone, its lettering very well preserved on display beside the alter. It names Steinunn Hallgrímsdóttir, who died in 1649 just a few years old, the only child of Iceland’s beloved poet Hallgrímur Pétursson. Her gravestone was found in 1964 when the church’s stone walkway was built. (Ask at the Nature Centre, above, to confirm the church is open on the day you’re visiting) Garðvegi 1. TRAVEL REYKJANES

The Western Coast of Reykjanes South of Hvalsneskirkja Church is a junction that leads to a bright yellow lighthouse, or along the coast (Rte. 45) towards the town of Hafnir. Here, you’ll notice the landscape become more volcanic, with very little greenery interrupting the expanse of lava. It’s no wonder the Apollo flight crew came here to practice moonwalking. About 5km south of Hafnir is a parking area for the trail to Hafnaberg Cliffs, a prime nesting site for guillemots, kittiwakes, fulmars, and razorbills; and a good whale-spotting location too. The cliffs are spectacular, but note that it’s a 90-minute round-trip along the cliffs, and if you’re not a birder, Reykjanes has other more accessible and equally dramatic sea cliffs. Another 2km south at Sandvík just off Rte. 425 is the Bridge Between Two Continents. This 15m / 49ft. footbridge straddles a major rift in the rock along the division between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, so you can walk between two continents shaped by thousands of years of geological separation. The bridge was built as a symbol for the connection between Europe and North America. If you’d rather scuba dive between the continental plates, see Þingvellir.

GEOLOGICAL INSIGHT The lava-scarred Reykjanes peninsula lies on one of the world’s major plate boundaries, the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. The Eurasian and North American tectonic plates are continuously drifting apart under this tremendous pressure, causing linear fractures known as fissures to form.

Reykjanes Proper Reykjanes means ‘Smoky Point’ and originally denoted only this south western corner of the peninsula, with its steamy (mistaken for ‘smoky’) geothermal hotspots. From here you can see Eldey, an island or rock about 14km off Reykjanes, home to the world’s biggest gannet colony. This 77 m / 263ft. high rock is now protected, but it was first climbed by three Icelanders back in 1894: Hjalti Jónsson – who was thereafter nicknamed “Hjalti of Eldey” – and two companions.

Gunnuhver (turn right off Rte. 425 towards Reykjanesviti lighthouse) is one such geothermal area, beautifully colored by minerals, where temperatures of over 300°C / 572°F have been recorded. Although Gunnuhver is often referred to as a

hot spring area, only fumaroles and mud pots are present. Unlike many geothermal areas, the groundwater here is 100% seawater, but this doesn’t seem to make a difference to the characteristic sulphurous vapours. Warning: Watch your step, stay on the paths and hold hands with any children accompanying you. The area is monitored but is constantly changing. BEWARE THE GHOST OF GUNNUHVER! three centuries ago, the troublesome ghost of Gudrún Önundardóttir—who gives her nickname ‘Gunna’ to this beautiful geothermal field—was tricked by a priest into taking hold of a charmed knottedrope that led her across the field and into the big fumarole. Some say she didn’t fall in with the rope, but is stuck holding onto the end of it, and paces around the rim of the steamy abyss for all eternity. It’s uncanny how the steam shifts in the breeze but never clears completely, as though veiling something, or someone…

Driving towards Grindavík from Gunnuhver along Rte. 425, look out for a place called Brimketill, a turbulent pool of water dug out of the lava rock over thousands of years by the pounding of the Atlantic. Note that even on a sunny day, you may want to view this spectacle wearing a raincoat – the plumes of spray have quite a reach!

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FAGRADSFJALL ERUPTION SITE | 63°53’33.0324“ N 22°16’50.412“ W

Fagradsfjall Eruption Site Fagradsfjall is the site of an active eruption at the time this publication was written. The eruption began on March 19, 2021 after nearly 40,000 earthquakes originated from this area in a one month period. Fagradalsfjall is a tuya volcano, a type of subglacial volcano that forms when lava erupts through a thick layer of glacier or ice sheet. Tuyas are a rare and primative volcano type and are typically found only in regions were there were glaciers and active volcanism in the same period. At the time of this publication, it is possible to visit the site of the eruption and book tours of the site. Please contact your Iceland Travel representative for more information on these tours. The Safetravel website is updated regularly with further information on opening hours and any changes there might be in regards to weather and/or other conditions. Visit safetravel.is

Grindavík This beautiful little fishing town on the south coast of the Reykjanes peninsula is one of the few towns along this coast with a harbor. Most inhabitants work in the fishing or boat industry. The Blue Lagoon (a few minutes from the town centre, see below) is the pride and joy of the town, but Grindavík is a fun stop in itself, and is surrounded by a magnificent landscape of lava fields, fissures, craters and small canyons.

House of Culture and Natural Resources This center contains the Icelandic Saltfish Museum (below) and the Earth Energy exhibition, which enables visitors to come to terms with the country’s geological origins, and see what the experts predict for its longterm geological future. The Icelandic Saltfish Museum Nobel Prize winning Icelandic author Halldór Laxness once wrote, “When all is said and done, life is first and foremost salt fish.” Life in Reykjanes, as in many other areas of Iceland, certainly revolved first and foremost around salt fish in the heyday of the salt cod industry, and the museum takes you back to the typical Icelandic fishing village of the late 19th and early 20th century. The museum was opened in 2002 and engages all your senses to show how Iceland was built on the salt fish industry. Its exhibition of Icelandic heritage and culture demonstrates the nation’s struggle for survival and its old way of life, with the history of salt fish inextricably linked to the history and prosperity of the Icelandic nation. The museum is right by the Grindavík harbor, and after learning how everyone in the villages used to spend their summers processing salt fish for export, you can then look out at the modern harbor and see where today’s fishing boats bring in their haul, seagulls circling as the catch is sorted. Hafnargötu 12 a.

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The Blue Lagoon The most recognised Reykjanes landmark and attraction is the Blue Lagoon (Rte. 420). In fact, it’s among Iceland’s most popular attractions, with more than 400,000 visitors per year. Like the more humble Icelandic swimming pool, this is something that can stay on your itinerary no matter what the season. In winter there are magical contrasts between warm water and cool winter’s air, with white snow atop black lava surrounding the lagoon, not to mention the possibility of watching Northern Lights from arguably the best vantage point in the country. In summer, the blueness is enhanced by the 24 hours of sunlight, and let’s face it, there’s still a lovely contrast between the cool summer’s air and steamy-hot lagoon!

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LOCAL TIP – HAIR CONDITIONER AT THE LAGOON If you have long hair, use the hair conditioner provided both before and after entering the Blue Lagoon! The water will leave your skin feeling soft and revitalised for days, especially if you smear yourself in the white ‘mud’. But your hair won’t thank you for the soak, unless you’re generous with the conditioner, and for some reason it seems just as important to condition your hair before stepping into the lagoon, as it is to do so afterwards.

Chances are you’re already familiar with the images of bathers relaxing in the pearly blue water, or smearing their faces and arms with white silica mud – the Blue Lagoon is often the first thing that comes to mind when foreigners think of Iceland. The color comes from a combination of naturally-occurring

algae, silica and other minerals in the water. The heat is also natural, with the water originating deep within the ground. It comes to the lagoon via the neighbouring geothermal power plant which extracts pressurised, burning hot water to use for its steam turbines to produce electricity. The runoff from this is piped to the lagoon, which also has its own boreholes to help regulate the temperature. This is why you might notice hot-spots as you wade around.

water. Not only is it fun to see and experience the Blue Lagoon, studies have shown that the water can be beneficial for certain skin conditions such as psoriasis – to the extent that visits by Icelanders suffering from such conditions are subsidised by the Icelandic public health system. Besides the luxurious conditioning and exfoliating effect of the famous white silica mud, another indulgence on offer is the in-water massage. The only danger is that you will realise what you’ve been missing out on with mere land-based massages all this time! Lying on a floating mat under a blanket with the masseuse’s hands working their magic, closing your eyes or looking up at the steam rising into the sky above... Yep, it’s a tough life. Just remember that the Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland’s most popular attraction, so pre-booking is necessary. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel. is

Selatangar The constant regulation also means that the water you step into has never been in the lagoon more than two days – a great comfort to those unsure of sharing a bath with a whole season of tourists and Icelanders alike! The algae in the water varies from season to season, so don’t be alarmed if the Blue Lagoon is more green than blue when you happen to visit :) The water is as salty as seawater, which also has the effect of minimising the sulphurous odour of the geothermal 32

Twelve kilometres east of Grindavík (on Rte. 427) is the turnoff to Selatangar, a fishing settlement that was abandoned in 1880. The road leads to a parking area near the shore. From there it’s a 10-minute walk east, mostly on striking black sand, to an assortment of crude stone foundations for huts in a stark, solitary, and even eerie setting. The atmosphere is made all the more peculiar by the impressive lava formations of the surrounding Katlahraun lava field. TRAVEL REYKJANES

Krýsuvík geothermal area Along the fissure of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge in the south-east corner of Reykjanes peninsula is the Krýsuvík geothermal area (turn left off Rte. 427 onto Rte. 42). This area is divided into a number of ‘hot spots’ of geothermal activity, including Seltún, Hverahvammur and Hverahlíð. The banks around the hot springs in these areas are colored vibrant green, yellow and red. Columns of steam rise skywards and the bubbling mud pools play their rhythmically spluttering symphony.

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MOVIE-BUFF TRIVIA if you drive past the site of Krýsuvík Church (built in 1857, destroyed by fire in 2010) you’ll see a large hill opposite, with a distinctive rocky crest. This is Arnarfell and was used in the filming of the Clint Eastwood’s Flags of Our Fathers. Remember the climatic scene re-enacting the famous photograph of U.S. Marines raising the flag at Iwo Jima? None other than Arnarfell!

The area of Krýsuvík is unsurprisingly populated by a number of volcanoes. Mt. Trolladyngja is a hyaloclastite mountain due west of Lake Kleifarvatn. The Trolladyngja shield Volcano has two main hyaloclastite peaks; 393/ 1,289ft. and 374m/ 1227ft. and 374m /1,227 ft high. There are also major central volcanoes to the south and north, whose lava flows have created various lava fields such as Afstapahraun.

Reykjanes Nature Reserve Reykjanesfólkvangur This area became a designated nature reserve in 1975 to help protect its lava formations around ridge volcanoes. On the other side of Rte. 42 from Krýsuvík is a picturesque green lake, Grænavatn, inside an explosion crater and colored by its thermal algae. A few minutes further north is the Seltún geothermal field, with a short trail that circles through the chemical odours and bubbling cauldrons of mud. Our final recommended stop in Reykjanes is Kleifarvatn Lake, a large (9.1 km2 / 35 sq. miles deep (97m /

318 ft.) lake fringed with wide black sand banks. Kleifarvatn sits atop the fissure zone of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, and after an earthquake in the year 2000, water levels dropped, reducing its surface by 20%. But the fissures that formed in the earthquake slowly became plugged again and the lake has since regained its previous surface level. The barren volcanic surroundings of the lake are unique and beautiful. The view is excellent from the spit of Lambatangi, a short walk from the road along the lake’s southern edge. ACCORDING TO LEGEND, a worm-shaped monster the size of a whale occupies Kleifarvatn lake.

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Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel the South West The Golden Circle South-West Iceland is renowned for its ‘Golden Circle’ of attractions, most often referring to: Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir geyser (!) and Þingvellir National Park – the site of Iceland’s first parliament and beautiful landscape where the European and North American continental plates are steadily drifting apart. Other attractions of this inland section of South-West Iceland include Kerið, a volcanic lake; Laugarvatn geothermal area, which now boasts the Laugarvatn Fontana thermal bathing facilities; and Skálholt, a religious, cultural and educational hub in Iceland for seven centuries.

Travelling South-West Iceland from Reykjavík The attractions of South-West Iceland mentioned in this chapter are inland, so for the purposes of this guide, we’ll assume you’re leaving Reykjavík heading north on the Ring Road (Rte. 1) past Mosfellsbær, then turning right towards Þingvellir on Rte. 36. Þingvellir is just under 50km from Reykjavík, and if you visit every place listed – a very full day’s itinerary – you would then end up back on the Ring Road at the junction with Rte. 35, just west of Selfoss with the option of TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

completing the south-west loop by returning to Reykjavík, or of continuing east along the south coast.

Þingvellir Þingvellir (Rte. 36) means ‘parliament plains’ and is arguably the most historically, culturally and geologically important site in the whole of Iceland. It is situated in a stunning volcanic landscape of mountains and lava fields, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Þingvellir National Park was founded in 1930, the first national park in Iceland, to protect the remains of the parliament site and the natural phenomena in the surrounding area. Þingvellir is the site of a rift valley and home to Þingvallavatn, the largest natural lake in Iceland. Surrounding the lake are impressive faults and gorges that are considered among the finest visible examples of tectonic movements in the world. This is one of the places where the tectonic plates for Europe

and America meet, and you can see the ridge between the continents. No single place epitomises the history of Iceland and the Icelandic nation better than Þingvellir. Alþingi (Parliament) first convened at Þingvellir in the year 930 and remained there, on and off, until 1798. This parliament laid the foundation for the Icelandic Commonwealth, which was mainly controlled by Goðar (chieftains) with some participation by ordinary people. Þingvellir was an annual meeting place for everyone in Iceland, thereby laying the foundation for the language and literature that have been a permanent part of the peoples lives to this day. The parliament provided an official reason to meet every year, but the gathering was also important for exchanging news, reciting poetry, meeting potential spouses and conducting a trade fair.

There are few visible remnants of the old parliamentary gatherings, and these are hardly more than lumps in the ground. All the main historical sites are clustered in the southwest corner of the park. When you visit, you’ll see why, as this area is a good assembly site because of the cliffs that can serve as a natural amphitheatre, the river that offers fish and drinking water, and the extensive space on the plains, ideal for encampments. Þingvellir covers an area that is easy to explore within one hour (for the historic places of interest), or as many as three hours (taking the area’s outer paths to include more of its geological features). The paths and individual places of interest at Þingvellir are well signposted, but the box below gives a summary of some of the keys spots.

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A condensed tour of historic Þingvellir Þingvellir has two visitor centres (thingvellir.is; tel: 482-2660). Approaching from Reykjavík, you first come to the interpretive center (with video displays, maps and books) at the top of the Almannagjá fault. The turnoff from Rte. 36 is marked “Fræðslumiðstöð”. Farther along Rte. 36 is the information center with café and more extensive bookshop. The parking areas closest to the sights are at the interpretive center and down in the valley off Rte. 362, about 150m / 482 ft from the church. From the interpretive centre, a wide path leads down through the Almannagjá (Everyman’s Fault) to the designated Lögberg (Law Rock), marked with a flagpole. The Lögsögumaður (Law Speaker), the only salaried official at the Alþing, recited the laws by memory from this podium, and Christianity was proclaimed the national religion from this spot in the year 1000. (All Icelanders then had to get baptized, but were allowed to wait until they passed a warm geothermal spring on their way home!) East of the Almannagjá is Neðrivellir, where the Law Council met to discuss, debate, determine and amend the laws. Facing toward the south, bulges of earth and stone mark the remains of temporary encampments called búðir (booths). The fault of Flosagjá forms the eastern border of the assembly. Northeast of the Law Rock, across the river, are the Neðrivellir (Low Fields), thought to be TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

the meeting place for the Lögretta (Law Council). Öxará (Axe River) was probably diverted to provide drinking water for the assembly. North along the river is Drekkingarhylur (the Drowning Pool), where at least 18 women convicted of crimes such as witchcraft, adultery or infanticide were tied in sacks and held under water. A short walk north of the Drowning Pool is the pretty Öxaráfoss waterfall, tumbling over the edge of the Almannagjá rift. Heading east from the Law Rock, you’ll cross an islet in the river where duels were fought in the first decades of the Alþing, before duelling was outlawed in 1008.

Across the river is the charming Þingvallakirkja Church. The first church here was built around 1016, with a bell and timbers sent by King Olaf of Norway. The current church, consecrated in 1859, was restored in 1970 to something close to its original condition. Behind the church is the burial ground for two poets, both key figures in the country’s nationalist revival: Jónas Hallgrímsson (1807-45) and Einar Benediktsson (1864-1940).

Nesjavellir Power Plant

Þingvellir for hikers and divers That’s not a typo – we really do mean you can go diving at Þingvellir! More than one company offers diving and snorkelling tours at Silfra, a rift on the edge of Þingvallavatn Lake, which sits directly on the continental rift. This lake, the largest natural lake in Iceland, forms Þingvellir’s southern boundary, and 90% of its water comes from underground springs and fissures. The Silfra rift is the divide between the continental plates—Europe on your right, America to the left, occasionally both within arm’s reach but moving apart up to 2cm / .7in per year. Snorkelling (or diving, if you are licensed to dive) is a magical way to experience this landscape, for first-time snorkelers and experience divers alike. Just beware that the water is so clear you may get vertigo as you peer into the rocky chasm! If you’d rather stay on dry land, there are also plenty of hiking trails in the area and around Þingvellir that will lead you to lava fields, farm ruins and some excellent views of the surrounding landscape. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is

Near the southwest shore of lake Þingvallavatn off Rte. 360 is the Nesjavellir power plant (which is also accessible from Hengill, Iceland’s largest geothermal power plant. Nesjavellir produces municipal hot water and electricity from geothermal hot springs and attracts thousands of visitors a year. Decades in the planning, construction of Nesjavellir began in 1987, and the cornerstone was laid in 1990. Nesjavellir produces approx. 120 mw of electrical power and delivers around 1800 litres / 476 gallons of hot water per second, servicing more than half of Reykjavík’s power requirements.

Laugarvatn geothermal area From Þingvellir you can drive via Lyngdalsheiði Heath on Rte. 365 to the lake Laugarvatn area. Laugarvatn is a geothermal area, and it is said that when Christianity was legalised in the year 1000, the chieftains from the north who refused to be baptized in the cold water of Þingvellir, were brought to Laugarvatn to be baptized in the warm spring. Laugarvatn Fontana is a geothermal bathing and general wellness centre, 25 km from Þingvellir, on Rte. 37 heading towards Geysir and Gullfoss. It is the new kid on the block for the Icelandic spa experience, set in the unique location of the Laugarvatn geothermal area. People have been bathing at Laugarvatn’s hot springs for centuries, and Laugarvatn Fontana continues this long tradition with added convenience TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

Strokkur, right next to Geysir, that erupts spectacularly every five minutes or so, up to 35m. It’s worth watching Strokkur erupt a few times, as each spout varies in size.

and luxury, and can be enjoyed any time of the year. Hverabraut 1 - 840 Laugarvatn – fontana.is LOCAL TIP – CHOOSING THE ULTIMATE BATHING EXPERIENCE We’ve heard people say you should either visit Laugarvatn Fontana (above) or the Blue Lagoon. Apart from its beautiful location, Laugarvatn Fontana is arguably most appealing for its saunas, which come with a natural soundtrack of the bubbling geothermal springs beneath; whereas the Blue Lagoon is popular for its huge outdoor pool, beautifying silica mud treatments, and in-water massages. In other words, they’re quite different experiences so we recommend doing both!

Each time Strokkur spouts, you’re witnessing very hot water – around 125°C / 257°F, so don’t get too close! – that has been trapped with hot gas, burst through a cooler layer of water closer to the surface. For many, the bulging dome of water seen just before the pressure peaks is even more magnificent than the spouting itself.

Geysir geothermal area Geysir is the name of one particular geyser in this geothermal area on Rte. 35; the one from which the English word “geyser” is derived. It was discovered and named in the thirteenth century when it spouted up to 80m into the air, but it is now calmly bubbles and hiccups, rarely capturing the camera’s attention, though it has erupted several times since the big earthquakes in 2000. What about all those “Geysir” photos you’ve seen then? These show TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

The Geysir geothermal area covers around 3km2/1.2 miles sq. and is full of hot springs, steaming creeks, mud marbled in sparkling mineral colors, turquoise pools bejewelled with silica. Access is always open but please be careful not to step over the ropes marking the safe areas, unless stepping into pots of boiling soup is a hobby of yours.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK – HAUKADALUR FOREST As you leave Geysir and head for Gullfoss waterfall, you have the option of turning left onto Rte. 333 which follows the edge of the geothermal field before leading you to Haukadalur forest, just a few minutes away. This is South Iceland’s largest national forest and has well-marked paths. It has special paths suitable for wheelchairs too. Many travel guides don’t mention Haukadalur, making it an even more tranquil place for those of us ‘in the know’ to enjoy a picnic lunch! Haukadalur is also home to a small grove of trees operated by Iceland Travel.

Gullfoss Gullfoss is a magnificent waterfall in the canyon of the Hvítá River, just 7 km from Geysir, still on Rte. 35. It is 32m / 105ft high in three sections, 20 meters wide, and it rushes down a 2.5 km / 1.6 miles gorge that’s up to 70m / 230 ft deep. The average amount of water running over this waterfall is 140 m3/s and the highest flow measured was 2000 m3/s. Gullfoss, meaning “Golden Falls”, is Iceland’s most iconic waterfall. You’re likely to hear the falls before you see them, but they’re only a five-minute walk from the car park. You can’t see all the way into the chasm, but even if you could, the bottom of the falls are obscured by the spray. Because of this spray, Gullfoss waterfall is a likely place for rainbow hunters to gather, as a rainbow seems to appear in the sky-high spray at the 40

first hint of any sunlight! The downside of these perpetually golden, misty conditions is that you may need to wear a raincoat on even the sunniest summer’s day. Gullfoss has a history to match its physical majesty. In the first half of the 20th century, there was much talk about using the waterfall to generate electricity, and during that period the waterfall was rented indirectly by its owners to foreign investors. It was later sold to the state of Iceland, where there was some speculation about using it, but it was ultimately decided to protect the waterfall. Near the falls is a monument to Sigríður Tómasdóttir, daughter of one of the original owners, who is credited with saving Gullfoss from being submerged by a hydroelectric dam in the 1920s. Sigríður threatened to throw herself over the falls if the project went ahead. The courts ruled against her, but in the face of public pressure, the hydroelectric company did not pursue the project. If watching the Hvítá River thunder into the canyon at Gullfoss sparks your adventurous spirit, you could always go river rafting on the Hvítá River – though not right at this spot! You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website icelandtravel.is

Flúðir If you take Rte. 359 south-east, instead of sticking to Rte. 35, you will pass through the hamlet of Flúðir. TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

Flúðir is traversed by the Stóra-Laxá River, a favourite among salmon fishers as the name suggests – it translates as “big salmon river”. Flúðir is a very geothermally active area, with horticulture, greenhouse and mushroom cultivation among the key industries. Flúðir is also well known for its natural hot spring pool, the Secret Lagoon. We recommend visiting the Secret Lagoon’s website for hours and admission prices. You can also book your visit on our website. Flúðir’s location among the historical and geological attractions mentioned in this chapter also adds to its touristmagnetism. There are a few historic sites near Flúðir, including Hruni – a farm, parsonage and church site off Rte. 345. A number of historic figures are associated with Hruni, but it is perhaps best known in relation to a tale of the devil pulling the whole church and congregation down into his domain after the people were celebrating the arrival of the new year with dancing, drinking and altogether a bit too much zeal!

Friðheimar Situated along Rte. 35 is the small geothermal village of Reykholt. There you will also find the family run Fridheimar farm that will introduce you to two interesting sides of Icelandic agriculture – its local market greenhouse culture alongside its passion for the small but sturdy Icelandic horse. Located conveniently on the famous TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

Golden Circle, Friðheimar (loosely translates as “peaceful world”) is one of Iceland’s most successful family run greenhouses growing delicious tomatoes year-round. In the greenhouse amidst the fragrant aroma of fresh tomato plants and the buzzing of worker bees you have the chance to enjoy a drink or a delicious meal - we recommend trying the establishment’s famous tomato soup. The family also breeds horses and guests can learn more about this magnificent animal by watching a very entertaining horse show which we highly recommend. The Icelandic horse is a descendant of the original horse breed brought to Iceland by the first settlers in the 9th Century. Long-lived and hardy, in their native country they have few diseases. Icelandic law prevents horses from being imported into the country and exported animals are not allowed to return. What makes the Icelandic horse stand out as unique when compared with all other breeds? Instead of just walk, trot and canter, the horses have two additional gaits. The Icelandic horse is unique in being 5-gaited, the most prized being the Tolt - a fourbeat gait where the sequence of foot falls is the same as in walk. This means that at least one foot is on the ground at any time and accounts for a smoothness which is very comfortable for the rider.

Skálholt Skálholt, in Biskupstungur off Rte.

31 (turn left from Rte. 35), is one of Iceland’s most important historic sites. Skálholt the episcopal must-see of south Iceland and a center of culture and education for 700 years. Christianity was made Iceland’s state religion in the year 1000 AD. The country’s first Catholic bishop, Ísleifur G., was ordained in 1056 and settled at Skálholt. Later, Þorlákur Þórhallsson (1178-1198), Iceland’s only saint, resided at Skálholt. A church was built at Skálholt in the mid-12th century and was, at the time, the largest wooden structure in medieval Scandinavia (about twice the length of the current church). As an educational centre, Skálholt was important for the democratisation of education, with laypersons of both sexes enrolled, and classes conducted in the vernacular Icelandic, as well as Latin. By the early 13th century Skálholt was Iceland’s largest settlement, with 200 people. The current neo-Romanesque church was inaugurated in 1956. The altarpiece, by Icelandic artist Nína Tryggvadóttir (1913–1968), is a massive mosaic of Christ with arms outstretched. The pulpit long predates the church and has a panel featuring the old Icelandic coat of arms: a filet of cod. As you enter the church, a door to your left leads to a museum in an underground passage that once connected the medieval church with its school buildings. Skálholt’s history is well annotated here, and you can

see the bishops’ tombstones and sarcophagus of Bishop Páll Jónsson (1196–1211), carved from a solid block of sandstone. The sarcophagus was only discovered in a 1956 excavation, and when the lid was raised Páll’s head still lay on its stone pillow, with his staff still at his shoulder, but grave robbers seemed to have taken his Episcopal ring. Eighty meters from the current church lies a crude relief on two slabs of stone, a monument to Jón Arason, Iceland’s last Catholic bishop, who was beheaded here along with his sons in 1550, after leading a rebellion against the Danish king’s order to Lutheranise the country. See also the Calendar of Events for information on the classical music festival held at Skálholt each summer. INSIGHT – THE OTHER REYKHOLT The Reykholt that you pass along Rte. 35, heading south towards Skálholt or Flúðir from Gullfoss and Geysir, should not to be confused with the more renowned Reykholt in West Iceland, famous for once being home to medieval poet and politician Snorri Sturluson. This Reykholt, within the Golden Circle, is a quiet settlement dotted with hot springs and greenhouses. The name Reykholt could be translated as “smoky heath” and is no doubt derived from the smoke-like steam rising from the area’s hot springs. In fact, given this derivation, it’s a wonder there aren’t dozens of Reykholts around Iceland!

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Kerið Visitors heading south on Rte. 35 (now just 15 km northeast of Selfoss) may wish to stop to see this shapely, scoria crater, which cups a mesmerising bluegreen lake. Kerið was once classified as an explosion crater formed around 3,000 years ago, but is now thought to be a spatter (or cinder) cone, up to twice that age, which formed with the collapse of a magma chamber at the end of a volcanic eruption. Kerið is one of several crater lakes in this area, known as Iceland’s Western Volcanic TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

Zone, and has the most visually recognisable intact caldera. Kerið is 55m / 180ft deep, 270m / 885ft long and 170m / 558ft wide, and its rocky sides seem mostly red, black or ochre, depending on the light. If you have time for a stroll, there’s a path around the rim – watch your footing! – An entrance fee is now charged of visitors to Kerið by the land owner MUSIC TRIVIA Björk once had a concert from a wooden raft floating in the middle of the Kerið crater lake.

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel the South Central The gateway to Iceland’s magnificent South Central lies inland of Rte. 1 beyond the villages of Hveragerði and Selfoss. Presiding over the area is Mt. Hekla, one of the country’s most destructive volcanoes and the location of Þjórsárhraun – a lava-flow believed to be the world’s most voluminous since the end of the last Ice-age. Here, the rivers Hvítá, Rangá and the mighty Þjórsá – Iceland’s longest river - feed impressive stretches of fertile land. Being only an hour’s drive from Reykjavík, the area is ideally suited for day-trippers wanting to experience the diversities of Icelandic nature and its dramatic contrasts of color and composition.

Hveragerði to Selfoss The town of Hveragerði is distinctive for its clusters of illuminated and heated greenhouses, a place where savvy residents have been harnessing the power of geothermal energy since 1920. As a result they’ve been able to cultivate a diversity of fruits and vegetables, with exotic varieties as unlikely as papayas and bananas thriving. The main visitor information center for the southern region is located in Hveragerði. Their offices are well supplied with tourist information and maps, and as a special treat for geology buffs, there’s also an

interesting exhibition on the powerful earthquake that shook the town violently in May 2008. In case you’ve ever wondered what an earthquake measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale feels like (and you’re not scared of the dark), you can try out their on-site simulator and find out! Sunnumörk 2-4 – south.is Hengill. The rising heights above Hveragerði are riddled with trails and smoking hot springs, and for those who appreciate a more comfortable and less time-consuming hike, with the added bonus of a geothermal swimming-spot at destination’s end, then Hengill is the perfect detour (or pre-tour) for explorers of the South Central. It might not be as dramatic or as strenuous as the famous highland trekking routes of Laugarvegur or Fimmvörðuháls but a 1 hour hike to the smoky valley of Reykjadalur in the Hengill area, is nevertheless a rewarding escapade. If you’re one of those ambitious people TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

who just don’t like turning back, you can continue on the trail all the way to Þingvallavatn in a day. Main access to the trail, called Rjúpnabrekkur (Ptarmigan slopes) is via Breiðumörk - the main street through Hveragerði – heading north. Selfoss. Selfoss is a great place to stop for a bite to eat at one of its local restaurants, stock up on supplies, and refuel before heading on your way. The most noteworthy feature is the suspension bridge built in 1945 across the voluminous Ölfusá. It was built in a hurry to replace an older bridge constructed in 1891, which collapsed when two milk trucks crossed over the bridge at the same time.

Along route 32 Þjórsárdalur or Bull-river valley was once a fertile settlement; but is now a rare relic of Viking times preserved. The highlights of the Þjórsárdalur valley are numerous, with sharply contrasting landscapes of birch woods, rivers and a collection of celebrated waterfalls; the area is framed by shelf-top mountains and floored with an ancient sandy lava-field. Following the course of the mighty Þjórsá river leads to unexpected places of beauty and splendour. The road to the wonders of Þjórsárdalur valley can be found 15km or so from Selfoss on Rte. 30, which branches in a north-easterly direction away from Rte. 1 following the west bank of the Þjórsá river further inland. A right turn onto Rte. 32 extends towards the valley and through the tiny hamlet of Arnes. Just past here at Hagafjall, a roadside stop TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

with wonderful views of Hekla beckon those with a camera-eye to take a snapshot. Further highlights of the area follow a circular route up the north side of the river heading east along Rte. 32 and then back down on Rt.26 heading southwest towards the main ring road Rte. 1. GEOLOGICAL INSIGHT Þjórsárhraun is an ancient lava sheet covering the floor of the Þjórsárdalur valley sourced by a massive fissure eruption south-west of the Gjáfjöll mountains around 8,000 years ago. According to geologists, the fast-flowing lava stretched out from the 20-30km / 12-20 mile wide fissure over a distance of 140km / 86 miles - all the way to the sea. It is said to be the greatest lava-flow sourced from a single eruption since the ice age.

Gaukshöfði. At the entrance to the Þjórsárdalur valley between Arnes and Hjálparfoss, you can stop for a short climb to the top of Gaukshöfði, a rocky crag with the mighty river at its foot and splendid views of Hekla. If the weather permits, it’s also a great place for a picnic! Hjálparfoss. A brief 1 km detour on a gravel road off Rte. 32 brings you to Hjálparfoss - a rather striking waterfall that bursts through of a breadth of twisted basalt columns into a dual torrent. It’s well worth a quick visit for snap-shots of its picturesque features. Watch out for a curious basalt bear, forever on the lookout, amongst the other extraordinary rock formations.

HÁIFOSS | 64°12’24.2136“ N 19°40’56.2764“ W

A little further along Rte. 32 is the gravel road Rte. 327 to Stöng, where the excavated ruins of a 12th century Viking-age farmhouse can be found in a fair state of preservation. Before the devastating eruption of Hekla in 1104, the area was a thriving settlement with as many as 20 farms. Maps of the original layouts showing the living quarters etc. are displayed on information panels on site.

well prepared for a lengthy detour to Landmannalaugur turn right and head southwest on Rte. 26 towards the region of Hekla. This road takes you through a wilderness of lunar-like landscapes and dramatic environments where thick layers of ash and lava are peppered with yellow pumice from past eruptions. Continuing on this route returns you to Rte. 1 via Hekla and the Landsveit district.

Before you return to Rte. 32 for Þjóðveldisbær (Commonwealth Farm) - the reconstructed settlement based on information discovered at the site - a little bit of heaven can be found at Gjáin where wild flowers and unique rock formations frame a lush ravine, complete with babbling brooks, waterfalls and populated with harlequin ducks. A well-worn trail leads away from the ruins of Stöng to this delightful little detour.

Mt. Hekla. Before the eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in 2010, formidable Mt. Hekla was the star volcano of Iceland, with a record of 18 eruptions taking place within the last millennium. The earliest known eruption struck in 1104 burying and partly preserving the Viking settlement at Stöng. Instead of a classical volcano cone, Hekla is part of a rather squat series of ridges, usually hidden behind a thick bank of clouds earning it the menacing name ‘the hooded one’. The silent snow, crested on the mountain’s protracted peak, seems to pacify its molten heart, which has poured out once every ten years since 1970. The last eruption started on 26th February in 2000 and lasted for 12 days.

Háifoss. If you’re not put off by an 8km / 5 mile hike, Háifoss is another highlight of the area and well worth a visit. Standing at a spectacular height of 120m (394ft), this is Iceland’s third highest waterfall. It’s hard not to be impressed by the slender torrent as it plummets thunderously into a sheer-walled gorge. The turnoff for this location is around 10km further along Rt 327/332.

Hekla and Around Continuing upstream beyond Búrfell on Rte. 32 the road crosses the Þjórsá river and ends around 15km later at the junction with Rte. 26. Unless you’re TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

For a closer encounter with Hekla continue along Rte. 26 until you reach a waterfall on the right named Tröllkonahlaup (Troll-wife’s Leap). The road here takes you as close to the base of the mountain as possible, that is unless you’re up for a challenging climb.

Climbing Hekla For many years people lived in fear of climbing this 1,491m (4891 ft) beautiful beast of a mountain, mainly because of its medieval reputation as being the gateway to Hell. After each eruption the mountain tends to go on grumbling for a while - sometimes for months. This was interpreted in medieval times as the ‘anguished voices of tormented souls’ consequently adding impetus to the myth. In-spite of its fearsome reputation a couple of brave-hearted young Icelanders, named Eggert Ólafsson and Bjarni Pálsson, clambered up and surmounted the beast in 1750.

If you are planning a climb to the top of this mountain then it’s advisable to come well prepared and also be familiar with emergency procedures in case of sudden weather changes and eruptions. The brochure Eruption Emergency Guidelines is widely available in tourist information centers. If you’re aiming for the summit, the trail-head starts off from the F225 road to Landmannalaugur. The climb itself takes at least 7 hours, 4 hours up, and 3 hours down. Ask at the Hekla Center (leirubakki.is) for good advice and a detailed map.

ROAD TOWARDS MOUNT HEKLA | 63°59’52.4469“ N 20°9’3.3817“ W

TROLL ALERT in the shadow of Mt. Hekla on the southeast side of the Þjórsá valley you’ll find the waterfall Tröllkonahlaup, where torrents of fresh water cascade down between protruding rocks. According to folklore, the troll-wife of Búrfell placed the rocks as stepping-stones across the river so that she could visit her sister on the other side without getting her feet wet. In another folk-tale a local farmer named Gissur from the nearby Landsveit district had a close encounter with one of the sisters, who was said to be feeling peckish for man-flesh. The troll-ladies weren’t completely uncultured though, as one was apparently overheard asking her sister for a pot to cook him in!

Þjófafoss. This wide waterfall with a low drop is known as ‘the thief’s fall’. Framed admirably in the background by Mt. Búrfell, it provides a welcome splash of TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

color in the anaemic surroundings. The name of the waterfall gives away its gruesome history of drowning thieves for their dishonest deeds. The bumpy gravel road to this attraction branches off Rte. 26 a short distance from Tröllkonahlaup. The Hekla Center – Heklusetur. On the western edge of Hekla, further southwest on Rte. 26 an informative exhibition can be found at Leirubakki – a local farm, hotel and shop. The exhibition brings past seismic events to life with video footage, presenting a collective history of the active mountain. It’s open daily between 10:00 - 21:00. Hekla Center – Leirubakka – 851 Hellu. leirubakki.is Leirubakki. Apart from the engaging exhibition at the Hekla Centre, this local farm has grown substantially and offers a rather impressive range of services 49

and facilities including a fuel-station, a restaurant and a hotel - with an outdoor swimming pool and hot tubs to boot. They also provide activity tours in case you’d like to explore the area on horseback or go fishing in the nearby Ytri-Rangá – a beautiful spring-fed salmon river in the Hekla region. GOING FOR GREEN after Hekla’s numerous historic eruptions, significant areas of the valley’s lush greens were suffocated underneath thick layers of ash. In recent years both the forestry service and energy authorities have combined forces to protect the remaining vegetation and have made a sustained effort, by planting thousands of trees, to re-green the valley.

Þingskálir. A thousand years ago in Njál’s time the annual assembly of the Rangarvellir district met at this ancient site just east of the Ytri-Ranga, river (off Rte. 268). Though barely visible, the remains of at least 37 temporary Viking dwellings have been discovered. A more sinister attraction called the Sacrifice Stone can be found a short distance away near a significant looking mound. This large boulder was apparently used as a slaughtering site for executing criminals.

From Hella to Hvolsvöllur Back on Rte. 1 a short journey southeast takes you through some rather pleasant green pastures to the agricultural village of Hella – a small community with modest services. It’s home of the horse aficionados and hence the reason you may find yourself driving slowly behind a four-wheel-drive with box in tow, looking at a horses backside! This sparsely populated town is also the gateway to Njál’s Saga country and historically know for its connection to the Sagas. With a small service center and beautiful scenery, crowned in the background by Mt. Hekla, it’s a great place to make a quick pause before heading on to the historic sites of the saga trail.

Keldur. Keldur now operates as a modern dairy farm, but the ancient surroundings of this particular farm, with its preserved turf halls, positively reek of history and date back to the saga period of the Vikings. The settlement is often mentioned in Njáls Saga as the home of one of its characters - Ingaldur Höskuldsson. To get to Keldur turn right 1km southeast of Hella onto Rte. 264 and follow the road about 16km, to its easternmost point. TRAVEL THE SOUTH WEST

Gunnarsstein.

Hvolsvöllur.

Around 3km east of Keldur a boulder marks the site of a particularly savage scene in Njál’s Saga, where a character named Gunnar and his men were ambushed and a bloody battle ensued. Who knows if the dualhearted bracelet, discovered during a nineteenth century excavation in the area, belonged to Gunnar’s brother Hjört (Heart), who was buried, according to the saga, at Gunnarsteinn.

Travelling further south to this small ring-road town brings you into the thick of Njál’s Saga country. Lovers of literature and Viking history will enjoy a stop at Valhalla Restaurant and Saga Centre (on Rte. 261) . You can enjoy home-made smoked barbecue and view an exhibition with models of Saga-age constructions, and replicas of period costumes. Paintings and information panels reveal the interesting historic events of the Viking period. The newest feature is a locally woven tapestry depicting events from Njal’s Saga. The tapestry is woven in the style of the Bayeux Tapestry. It’s open daily during the summer between 09:00 and 18:00. Hlíðarvegur 14 – 860 Hvolsvelli, Phone: 487 - 8781. Bergsþórshvoli.

Lava Centre. The Lava Center is an interactive, hightech educational exhibition depicting volcanic activity, earthquakes and the creation of Iceland over millions of years. lavacentre.is

Before leaving the area to enjoy the highlights of the coastal road, don’t forget to pay a visit to the homeland of Njáll himself (off Rte. 252), where he lived with his wife Bergþóra. Though don’t get too disappointed by the modern house currently occupying the spot. According to the story, the original home of Njáll was set ablaze by the dreaded Flósi and his ‘Burners’ in the year 1011; killing Njáll and most of his family. Charred remains tested during excavations of the site have been dated back to the saga-age.

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Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel the South Coast The South of Iceland is home to many of the country’s most celebrated locations including Gullfoss, Geysir and the historically significant site of Þingvellir. The majority of people visiting the region tend to focus on these areas, but for the more determined explorer the South Coast has a wealth of natural treasures to be discovered. The beauty of the coastal road, which extends from the Markarfljót valley to the southernmost village of Vík, is that it threads through some of Iceland’s most remarkable landscapes - stitching together a progression of diverse natural wonders, including waterfalls, rivers, famous volcanoes and glaciers. The area is also famous for its rich folklore and legends, so a stop at many of these locations and you could find yourself at the site of a legendary event or in the company of Icelandic trolls and elves!

Down by the Sea There are a few towns dotted along the coastline, detached from the main thread of Rte. 1, but nonetheless worthy of attention. These little towns are but a short trip away from the main road, across the Flói marshland (a breeding ground for many birds), but tend to get overlooked in favour of the more celebrated highlights of the region further on.

Eyrarbakki. Until 1925, Eyrarbakki was the main trading center and port in the South of Iceland, where for centuries boats were literally dragged out through the surf to be launched into deeper waters. It’s now better known as the host of Iceland’s largest prison and its concentration of criminals at LitlaHraun. Don’t let this bit of trivia put you off visiting though, the town provides a valuable insight into the past of Iceland’s old fishing communities and hosts a few historic exhibitions too, including the country’s oldest primary school, the Maritime Museum, and Húsið (The House) – a complex of attractive preserved architecture, with one Scandinavian wooden-kit home dating back to 1765. The younger village church was built in 1890, but it’s better known for the royal attention Queen Louise of Denmark gave it when she painted the altarpiece. Húsið – husid.com

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Stokkseyri. This pretty little place, with its black sandy beaches and rich culture, was founded around 900 AD by Hásteinn Atlason; like its larger neighbour Eyrabakki, it was once an important fishing village - nowadays it’s more known for its super-famous lobster soup, served at the Fjöruborðið seafood restaurant Eyrarbraut 3 fjorubordid.is Stokkseyri is also known for its creepy installations at the Ghost Center (open daily in the summertime between 13:00 - 18:00 (1pm - 6pm)) and its Elves, Trolls and Northern Lights exhibition. Hafnargötu 9 – icelandicwonders.com You can explore this interesting area at depth by kayaking along the unique lagoons and water canals on the coastline, a good idea for all bird lovers! (Departures from the Stokkseyri swimming pool) kajak.is – Stjörnusteinar WHO WEARS THE TROUSERS? Stokkseyri is the hometown of maritime adventuress Þuríður Einarsdóttir. As captain of a fishing boat in the late 18th and early 19th century she was quite a character, whose life (in men’s trousers) can be explored at Þuríðar cottage – a replica of the old fishing barrack built in her memory.

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The Westmann Islands If you’re a fan of Gordon Ramsey you might have already been introduced to the extraordinary Westman Islands and its puffins on his F-Word cooking show. It’s not just the tasty puffin population attracting visitors though; this collection of 15 islands, located about 10km from the mainland, is also of great historical and geological importance. The Islands have been drawing attention since the year 870 when the Westmen, who were a group of rebellious Irish slaves, sought refuge there after they’d murdered their master Hjörleifur Hróðmarsson - they consequently became the island’s first inhabitants. When his foster brother, Ingólfur Arnarson (the first Icelander), heard of the treachery he hunted them down and slaughtered them all. 53

Out of the 15 islands the largest is Heimaey (Home island) and the only one inhabited by people. Over the centuries the population grew until the islands attracted the attention of some Algerian pirates; they landed at Ræningjatangi (the robber’s spit) in 1627 murdering 40 settlers and kidnapping a further 250 - or half of the inhabitants - most ended up as exotic slaves in the Ottoman Empire. The country was devastated by these so-called Turkish raids and it wasn’t until 1970 that the law demanding the death of any Turk found on the island was repealed. The Westman Islands are considered babies in geological terms with the oldest of them emerging from a submarine volcano over 10,000 years ago. Surtsey is the youngest, appearing dramatically from the sea during a four-year series of eruptions starting in 1963. With a prosperous fishing industry and a fleet of 60 fishing vessels the economy of the Heimaey flourished, it was mainly thanks to this same fishing fleet that the entire population (5,000 people by then) were safely evacuated when a volcano erupted in the middle of a January night in 1973. This volcanic episode lasted until July of the same year, covering 30% of the town in lava and ash - adding a total of 230 million cubic meters of volcanic materials to the island. Apart from the daily flights to the Westman Islands from Reykjavik, the Herjólfur ferry service operates from Landeyjarhöfn a few km east of

Hvolsvöllur – it makes several trips a day and only takes 30 minutes. Herjólfur ferry - Landeyjarhöfn herjolfur.is Daily flights icelandair.com/flights/vestmannaeyjar Highlights of the Westman Islands. Before you head off to Stórhöfði to feast your eyes on puffins galore (the islands have the largest puffin colony in the world), there are a few mustsee exhibitions downtown to get you clued-up first. The Museum of Natural History (open daily during the summer between 11:00am - 17:00 (5pm)) has an interesting display of rocks, taxidermy and a lively aquarium of marine fauna; while further up the road, summer screenings of ‘The Volcanic Film Show’ are hosted by the local cinema. This informative documentary includes video footage of the Surtsey eruptions and gives an insight into the island’s famous birdlife. These exhibitions should prepare you for both the Pompei of the North - an ongoing excavation project on the ruins of the 1973 eruption, and for the hike to the old and new lava sights of Helgafell and Eldfell. Heiðarvegi 12. Another stop of interest would be the Eldheimar Museum. Its interactive exhibition gives visitors a glimpse into people’s lives on Heimaey before the eruption, an event that would change their lives forever. Suðurvegur / Gerðisbraut 10 – eldheimar.is

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CONCERT FOR PUFFINS? to see the Westman Islands from a different perspective take a boat trip around with Viking Tours. The entertaining tour of sea and birdlife includes a free (at least for the puffins) solo brass concert while the expert tour guide demonstrates the acoustics of a sea cave with a saxophone. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website icelandtravel.is

The South Coast Road Back on Rte. 1 the glacier-topped mountains press ever closer to the coastline and give rise to a succession of increasingly dramatic spectacles all the way to Vík and beyond. They also generate a profusion of glacierfed waterfalls enhancing the scenery with delightful, but dangerous, looking torrents of water.

Skógar is best known for its excellent Folk Museum whose owner has been collecting an assortment of artefacts since the year 1949.It’s open daily between 09:00-18:00 during the summer. The area also marks the start of the popular Fimmvörðuháls trail between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers to Þórsmörk – Skógar – skogasafn.is Standing at 60m (197 ft) tall, and clearly visible from the road, the Skógafoss waterfall with its alluring beauty, draws you in for a closer inspection. On a sunny day the waterfall makes rather splendid rainbows, and if you pose in the right position for the camera, you can get a snapshot with a rainbow coming out of your hat - creative minds have framed some excellent shots here! A staircase by the side of the falls winds all the way up to a top made of grassy slopes; with plenty of spots overlooking a stretch of sensational south coast vistas, why not stop for a picnic? The staircase also marks the start of the Fimmvörðuháls pass.

The Glacial Heights Seljalandsfoss. This waterfall is majestic enough faceon without its rearward access to make your jaw drop; but the opportunity to view the water falling from the inside out, is so thrilling you don’t even realize (until you’re back out front) that you should’ve brought your waterproofs along! TRAVEL THE SOUTH COAST

Mýrdalsjökull. Iceland has a number of glaciers condensed in this area and this one is the country’s fourth largest. With a thickness of 700m / 2297ft in places, this solid frozen mass sits firmly in shimmering splendour on top of the foreboding Katla - a massive subglacial central volcano. Its caldera is 10km (6.3 miles) in diameter and has erupted between 16–20 times with an average interval of 40–80 years, since the settlement of Iceland. 55

Each time it blows, the glacial meltwater causes catastrophic flash-floods in the plains below, creating, over time, the vast Mýrdalssandur desert on the southeastern side of the glacier. Katla last erupted in 1918. However luring glaciers look, do not be tempted to set off and conquer one on your own, at least not without training or experience—glaciers can be extremely dangerous. The best way to tackle these ice-giants is in the company of a good-natured expert tour guide. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is MOVIE-BUFF TRIVIA if you’re a fan of the TV series Game of Thrones you’ll probably already know that scenes from season 2 were filmed on top of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier. However, you might not know that during the shoot the activity and illuminations created by the film crew led to the emergency services being called out to investigate reports of a possible eruption!

A turn-off from the main road onto Rte. 218 leads to Dyrhólaey - a magnificent rocky promontory with sheer cliffs marking the southernmost extremities of Iceland. Its most fantastic feature is a huge wave cut archway said to be large enough for a sailboat to pass through; this also makes it an irresistible attraction for photographers and daredevil aviators! The area is teaming with birds of numerous species, occupying the rugged cliffs and nesting in the grassy slopes. 56

Dyrhólaey is a bird sanctuary and out of bounds during the breeding season (May 1st - June 25th).

SAFETY TIPS be very careful whilst walking on top of Dyrhólaey, there are no fences ruining the view to protect you from falling. Iceland is thankfully not a nanny-state, so you won’t find any big signs stating the blatantly obvious dangers. The road to the top is very steep and not recommended for smaller vehicles, or inexperienced drivers especially in wet weather.

Vik and Around A right turn onto Rte. 215 leads to Vík’s visual trademark – The Troll Rocks of Reynisdragar. According to folklore, this row of impressive basalt spikes, reaching 66m (216 ft) high and reminiscent of a giant sea-wading dinosaur, are the masts of a troll ship turned to stone in the morning sun. In the same location at the southern end of Rte. 215 the black pebble beach of Reynisfjara forms a spit of lands extending over 2km / 1.2 miles from the Reynisfjall mountain towards Dýraholaey. At the base of the same mountain, the gaping mouth of the Hálsanefshellir basalt sea cave beckons the spelunker (cave explorer) in you. TRAVEL THE SOUTH COAST

SAFETY TIPS: Be very careful on the beach of Reynisfjara as the waves can sneak up on you very suddenly and there are dangerous riptides at play there.

On the road to Vík just north of the town, memorable trout-fishing moments await in the freshwater lake of Heiðarvatn – at least they do if you have a fishing permit! Vík. This quiet village is situated in the mild and fertile Mýrdalur valley and framed on all sides with wonderments of nature. The western border is marked by the glacial river, Jökulsá, to the east by the river Blautakvísl, and to the south by black, volcanic beaches and the Atlantic Ocean.

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Mýrdalur is an area of great contrasts with lush green pastures lying between vast black volcanic sands where rugged glacier topped mountains rise up towards the sky. The area is an ornithologists paradise and is host to the country’s largest nesting colony of arctic terns. In the early summer months (May – July) countless puffins, kittiwakes and fulmars make their homes in the in cliffs to the west of the village. BEWARE OF THE BIRDS Arctic terns are fiercely protective of their eggs and hatchlings. Intruders will soon feel like extras in an Alfred Hitchcock horror film if they disturb their nesting grounds. These crazy birds do not hesitate to pick a fight with your scalp as they take turns dive-bombing you. If you must wander into their kingdom, take a stick or umbrella to hold up and they will attack that instead.

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel the South Coast from Vík to Höfn With Europe’s largest glacier presiding majestically over the area, this 272km stretch of road, from Vík to Höfn skirts the edges of Iceland’s most impressive scenery, including one the country’s star attractions – the Glacier Lagoon. Crowning the region is Hvannadalshnjúkur Iceland’s highest peak, which breaks out of the southern glacial tongue Öræfa-jökull, like a set of icy fangs and creates a stunning contrast with its surrounding terrain. As a favourite with film directors, many big budget films have been shot in this particular region of South Iceland you may in fact recognize some of the stunning locations from their regular appearances on the silver-screen, with scenes from titles such as Die Another Day, Batman Begins and Tomb Raider shot in the extraordinary settings found here.

In the back of beyond Þakgil is a perfect destination with some picturesque mountain scenery and mysterious looking rock formations. A hiking map of the area is available at thakgil.is which roughly details the area and marks the trails. Look out for the recommended 4-hour loop which includes the terrific viewpoint at Mælifell. Rte. 214, a turnoff 5km east of Vík, leads to this lovely location and its campsite. Mýrdalssandur. Pressing further east, 58

Rte. 1 curves gracefully through the outwash plains of Mýrdalssandur - a vast desert of dark sand just southeast of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier – and towards the immense fire-lava fields of Eldhraun. Along the way there are various stops of interest including: the Hjörleifshöfði mountain, which rises dramatically 221m (725ft.) from a sea of sandy wasteland, and the cairns of Laufskálavarða – a curious landmark where travelers are encouraged to continue the charming tradition of piling up rocks in a bid to invoke lady luck as a travel companion!

Kirkjubæjarklaustur and around Fjarðrárgljúfur. If you’re not in too much of a hurry to revisit civilization, and fancy a short hike or lunch break, then this 100m (328ft.) river canyon and relic of the Ice-age is only a 2km diversion from Rte. 1 on Rte. 206. With its stunning convoluted cliff-sides - covered with narrow ledges and frequently TRAVEL THE SOUTH COAST

interrupted by slippery emerald slopes - this compelling attraction will reward you with further lasting impressions of the region.

Rte. 206 also leads to Lakagígar (Laki Craters) a massive area of geological significance, North of Kirkjubæjarklaustur. In June 1783, the earth here erupted into over 130 lava spouting cavities along a 25km (16 miles) long fissure. The eruption, which lasted for eight months and generated a molten mass estimated at 14.7 cubic km (31/2 cubic miles), is said to be the largest volcanic event ever witnessed in recorded history, and one that caused catastrophic consequences throughout the northern hemisphere. If you have a passion for observing the beauty in the bleak, then this area with its hiking trails criss-crossing endless expanses of moss covered craters, is well worth a visit. With difficult rivers to ford, this area can only be accessed with a good 4WD, or alternatively you can take a tour of the location. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is

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ELDMESSA – THE FIRE SERMON during the Lakigígar eruptions in 1783, the pastor of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Jón Steingrímsson delivered his famous FireSermon, which is said to have brought the lava flow to a standstill as it edged alarmingly closer to the town.

Kirkjubæjarklaustur is the only village located on this extraordinary stretch of road between Vík and Höfn. With its six-syllable mouthful of a title most people just refer to it as “Klaustur” meaning cloister – a reference to a now vanished convent established in 1186. The town’s connection to the church is reflected in place names such as Systrafoss (Sisters’ Fall), a pretty waterfall on the west side of town which pours out from the elevated Systravatn (Sisters’ Lake). A hiking trail leads from the lake to an impressive hill-mounted rock called Systrastapi, meaning Sisters’ Rock; according to folklore two nuns were buried here after being burnt at the stake for heresy. For more information on hiking trails, sightseeing and local amenities in the village, contact the local Tourist Information Center – open JuneAugust on Sunnumörk 2 – south.is Landbrotshólar is the biggest area of pseudo craters in Iceland. Located just south of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, it’s composed of countless hills that undulate far into the distance.

LÓMAGNÚPUR | 63°57’22.572“ N 17°29’1.032“ W

Kirkjugolf means The Church Floor, and as a designated national monument 1km north of the town, it’s one of the recommended sightseeing stops. Although you could well imagine this place as the site of a medieval church it has no ecclesiastical connections whatsoever, it’s rather a site of geological interest where you can puzzle at the geometry of nature and wonder about how this area, which is paved in hexagonal basalt tiles, was formed by an underwater lava flow ahead of the ice-age. Past Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Rte. 1 advances on towards the glacial territory dominated by Vatnajökull - Europe’s largest glacier. For those who don’t have a pressing date with a certain massive attraction, there are a few appealing stops along the way deserving of a little attention, such as Foss – the pretty waterfall that flows upwards in a storm; and Dverghamrar or Dwarf Cliffs, just across the road from Foss, where a short trail leads to some ancient basalt columns lined up like soldiers; watch out for the leaning tower – a dwarf indeed compared to the one in Pisa! Further along Rte. 1 at the foot of Lómagnúpur an impressive 688m (2.257 ft) high precipice - you’ll encounter Núpsstaður, a farm with a quaint 17th century turf church surrounded by magnificent cliffs. It was home to the brave postmen, who traversed the hazardous rivers and glaciers alone, until the 1970’s.

waterfalls watered by the Núpsá river west of the glacial tongue Skeiðarárjökull. This good-looking area is still relatively unexplored, mainly because the only road there is difficult - even for 4WDs. Rte. 1 continues east over the vast outwash plains of Skeiðarársandur marking some dramatic changes in landscape, the region is characterized by sharp contrasts of color, with tantalizing views of glacial tongues descending dark gorges, and tall mountains spiting out rivers of racing glacial water - and whatever else the greedy glacier has ingested over the millennia. Following the 1996 eruption in Gjálp, a volcano under Vatnajökull, a massive torrent of melt water, measuring several billion cubic metres and carrying mansion-sized ice-bergs, flooded over Skeiðarársandur washing away large parts of the road and taking two bridges with it. Amazingly the road opened again in December, only two months after the eruption. GEOLOGICAL INSIGHT It’s an interesting fact that although glaciers cover approximately 10% of the landmass in Iceland, 60% of the eruptions so far have occurred under these massive bodies of ancient ice, often causing glacial floods called Jökulhlaups.

Núpstaðarskógar is a beautiful forest with glacial views, gorges and TRAVEL THE SOUTH COAST

Skaftafell Skaftafell is part of the now extensive Vatnajökull National Park and a masterpiece of nature; it’s illuminated by the frozen white glacial heights of Vatnajökull, and darkened to the depths by the Skeiðarársandur plains – vast stretches of black sandy wasteland and volcanic debris born from volcanic eruptions underneath the icecap. In the middle lies the Skaftafell plateau, a dynamic feast for the senses, where gorges with busy brooks, beautiful waterfalls and birch woods, of magnificent proportions, meet a wealth of wild flowers and lush vegetation. Trails in this area are mostly found on the Skaftafellsheiði (Skatfafell heath) and lead to numerous breath-taking waterfalls. Save some breath for the

most majestic of them all though – the stunning Svartifoss, or “Black Falls” - a wonder of natural architecture plunging over a wall of symmetrical basalt columns resembling a pipe-organ. Other trails from the visitors center lead to the glacial tongue Skaftafellsjökull and it’s stranger and more serrated sister Svínafellsjökull. If you’re tempted to climb, then do so with an expert glacier guide. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is For those who have difficulty hiking up to the Skaftafellsjökull glacier, check at the visitor center for an alternative route with wheelchair access. Vatnajokull National Park – vjp.is Vatnajökull. Covering a surface area of around 8,100km2 / 3127sq. miles Vatnajökull is Europe’s largest glacier TRAVEL THE SOUTH COAST

pressing its force down upon more than 8% of the country. The average ice thickness is 400m / 1312ft, though it can reach a maximum of 950m / 3117ft in places. Iceland’s highest mountain, Öræfajökull occupies one of the southern extremities of this multitongued monster, with Iceland’s highest peak Hvannadals-hnúkur, extending to a height of 2110m / 6923ft. Because of its unique combination of natural wonders and disasters, all concentrated into one area, this region of the Vatnajökull National Park is an important center for the study of natural science. Visitors hungry for more knowledge can swat up on the nature, culture and history of the area by checking out the exhibitions or attending lectures at the Visitors Center. Vatnjokull National Park - vjp.is Skaftafell to Höfn Ingólfshöfði. Driving east from Skaftafell, a flat-topped projection of coastal land comes into view, rising above the sometimes shimmering vast plains. This area is known for its historical significance as well as its rich bird life, and takes its name from Iceland’s first settler Ingólfur Arnason, who probably spent his first months here. Kvíarjökull. For a quieter and less-tried taste of a glacial tongue, pay a visit to the narrow protrusion of Kvíarjökull, 39km east of Skaftafell. The location is marked by a turnoff and visible in the distance. In preparation for the spectacular vision of Jökulsárlón (The Glacial TRAVEL THE SOUTH COAST

Lagoon), visit first the scenic Fjallsárlón and Breiðárlón lagoons, which offer variations of Iceberg calving activity on a smaller scale.

The Glacier Lagoon - Ever watched the way ice cubes slowly shift and turn as they melt in your glass of mineral water? Now imagine that on a glacial scale, and sit yourself in a boat amidst the ice cubes. House-sized, blue-tinted ice cubes about a thousand years old. This is the Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon, a few hours east of Reykjavík (371km) along Iceland’s south coast. Most visitors to Iceland visit the glorious Blue Lagoon, but boating around the lesserknown Glacial Lagoon is an even more magnificent and bizarre experience - though it’s not recommended to join the seals for a dip. The scale of these mini-bergs is breathtaking, but the beauty is also in the detail. Each iceberg picks up sediment from the surface of the water, becoming marked by a new black band each time it is tipped over on its side during the melting process. After a few flips, this leaves the lagoon strewn with strangely striped icebergs. Or are Iceland’s trolls and giants just preparing for a game of noughts and crosses? 63

jokulsarlon.is Hólmur. If by now you’re desperate for a café and you can’t hold out for another 33km (21miles) to the next patch of civilization at Höfn, we recommend a stop at Jón Ríki restaurant and brewery - 781 Höfn – jonriki.is Ice-cream addicts will have to drive a little further to the Brunnhóll guesthouse which is famous for this home-made frozen treat. Brunnhóll – brunnholl.is Höfn simply means harbor and as its name suggests it’s a bustling fishing village and port. With the giant Ice-cap of Vatnajökull framed in the background, Höfn has perhaps the 64

most impressive backdrop of any other in the country. As well as being a commercial centre, the village is also known for its agriculture and farming community. After all that wilderness, Höfn provides an essential stop-gap with a few shops and places to rest and repose. But, just in case you need to find out more about those fascinating glaciers, there’s an interesting exhibition at Gamlabúð Visitor Centre, Litlabrú 2, dedicated to glaciers, geology and animal life of the area. Open daily from May – September, between 10:00am to 18:00 (6pm). visitvatnajokull.is

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Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel the East variety of birdlife, boasting species such as ptarmigan and its highly prized predator the gyrfalcon. It’s also the location of Hallormsstaður - Iceland’s largest forest.

Because of its remote location, this area of Iceland has always been the territory of the more devoted explorer, it’s about as far away from Reykjavík as you can possibly get, but if you have time to spare and are particularly passionate about ancient glacier-cut landscapes, then a visit to this appealing part of the county will reward you with treats of extreme proportions. The region is epitomized by a host of natural wonders, including the usual blend of waterfalls, mountains, deserts, heaths and fjords; but because their features are often characterized by greater dimensions; you’ll find that the mountains here are surely steeper and the fjords are definitely deeper; and as a result of extensive reforestation efforts, the East is certainly a lot greener in places! Apart from the assorted scenery and colorful contrasts, the East of Iceland has an abundance of natural harbors, charming little fishing villages and a TRAVEL THE EAST

GEOLOGICAL INSIGHT Geologically speaking, the East is the oldest and most stable region of Iceland, because of its remote distance from the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, it has significantly less volcanic and geothermal activity. The entire region was formed by ancient volcanoes, which were later glaciated. As the glaciers moved down they cut out the impressive steep valleys of the magnificent Eastfjords.

East of Höfn Just before you reach the Almannaskarð tunnel a nice little detour (off Rte. 1) leads to the headland of Stokksnes, where you’ll be greeted with stunning views of the sea-licked mountains (Vestrahorn and Eystrahorn) and possibly some seals bobbing about in and out of the water. There’s also an abundance of birdlife. If the weather’s good another option is to stop at the view point on the east side of the tunnel, where you can enjoy the beautiful scenery towards the West and admire the glacial tongues descending from the main icecap.

Lón and the Lónsöræfi Reserve Around 40km (25 miles) east of Höfn the next bay encountered on Rte. 1 is dominated by a large lagoon - Lónsvík (Lagoon Bay), where Greylag Geese and Whooper Swans touching down on the calm waters are watched over by wandering horses. This still expanse of water is fed by the glacial rivers of Lónsöræfi or Lagoon Wilderness - a mountainous interior region, bordering Vatnajökull and composed of striking landscapes with deep gorges, fractured rhyolite hills and serrated summits of varying elevation - it’s easily one of Iceland’s best and most remote hiking districts. Access to the rugged terrain of Lónsöræfi is via Rte. 980, which leads through a deep glacial river; if you’re planning an independent hiking trip, it’s recommended that you register your tour and leave detailed travel plans 66

withsafetravel.is. Between Lónsvík and its neighbouring Álftafjörður (Swan Fjord) look out for some fascinating scenery and landmarks such as Mt. Eystrahorn at Hvalsnes and the hazardous looking scree slopes of Hvalnesskríður and Þvottárskríður, lining the edges of the coastal mountains.

Djúpivogur Djúpivogur (Deep Cove) is a picturesque fishing village, located on the tip of an east coast peninsula, and visited regularly by wandering reindeer and an occasional bob of curious seals. Standing guard over the town is one of Iceland’s most beautiful mountains, the 1069m (3,507ft.) Búlandstindur, whose perfect pyramidal image has been proudly adopted as the town’s symbol. The history of the village is closely linked with Iceland’s trade and fishing industry, which in Djúpivogur dates TRAVEL THE EAST

back to 1589. Although fishing is still a core activity and the main source of employment in the village, an increase of tourism in recent years has given it a new cultural focus, and an alternative source of income. With a couple of conveniently located bird-hides, tired ornithologists will be very pleased that they don’t have to hike into the back of beyond to delight in the birdlife of Djúpivogur - to find out more about them, visit Langabúð - the big red 18th century building by the habour. Apart from housing the local information centre, it’s also a café and a folk museum, dedicated to the memory and works of Ríkarður Jónsson - a talented local sculptor.

The Eastfjords The convoluted coastline of the Eastfjords is composed of extreme landscapes where the road weaves magnificently in and out of long, narrow fjords divided by sheer mountains. The journey itself can be rather exhilarating and sometimes scary, especially when the road cuts dramatically through steep slopes, that descend from jagged peaks and disappear into the depths of deep fjords. Note that an alternative route (Rte. 939) leads inland and north to Egilsstaðir at the bottom Berufjörður. Rte. 1 continues back up the other side of the fjord along the coast. Berufjörður is the first of the Eastfjords encountered on the journey from Djúpivogur and marked by the spiky crown of Smátindur (Small Summits) TRAVEL THE EAST

and its deep cut valley, which is lined with small farms in the lowlands. The fjord is especially known for its zeolitecrystals. Breiðdalsvík is a cosy little coastal town perched at the foot of some rather lofty mountains in Breiðdalur (Broad Valley), which happens to be the longest and broadest valley in the Eastfjords. Apart from hosting ‘Austfjarðatröllið’ (The Eastfjords Troll) which is an annual strongman competition, the fjord is also known for its popular salmon fishing in the Breiðdalsá river. At Breiðdalsvík, Rte. 1 continues inland to Egilsstaðir and the coastal road is taken over by Rte. 96. Stöðvarfjörður is another beautiful fjord with spectacular surroundings where you can visit the extraordinary rock exhibition of Petra Sveinsdóttir, whose fascination with beautiful stones led to a lifetime’s collection of countless rocks, minerals and semi-precious stones - 90% of which were found in Stöðvarfjörður and the surrounding area. Fjarðarbraut 21 –750 Stöðvarsfjörður - steinapetra.is Fáskrúðsfjörður. Although the road signs in this little fishing town (also known as Búðir) suddenly double up in the French language, don’t be alarmed, you’re still definitely in Iceland. The French connection dates back to the 17th century when the area was settled by French fishermen, who were lured to the eastern waters of Iceland by its wealthy supply of codfish. During the boom years between 1880 and 1940, over 5,000 fishermen from 67

the continent sailed to the area each year; they frequented the village, building a hospital, a consulate and the Krossar chapel. In case your eyes keep glancing nervously at the fuel gauge and you just can’t afford any more fjords, then take the inland shortcut on Rte. 96, which takes you directly to Reyðarfjörður, connecting with Rte. 92 to Egilsstaðir. STRANGE BUT TRUE in the 17th century an Icelandic farmer compiled the world’s first dictionary of the Basque language in order to assist communication between the locals and some of the migrants.

in this period of history and Iceland’s role in the war, there’s a small museum of war memorabilia in the village at the base of the fjord called the Icelandic Wartime Museum. Spítalakampi – Heiðarvegi 37. The town is closely associated with Alcoa - the world’s biggest aluminium corporation and produces 350.000 tons of aluminium annually in its smelter, which opened in 2007 providing much needed employment. By-passers of the remaining Eastfjords can say ‘bye’ to the coastal beauty and ‘hello’ to the inland highlights of the East by taking Rte. 92 from Reyðarfjörður towards Egilsstaðir and Lagarfljót.

Middle Eastfjords

Skrúður is a grassy island standing proud at the mouth of the Fáskrúðsfjörður fjord, and home of the Skrúðhellir caves - the biggest in the East of Iceland. The caves are now home to a thriving bird population and a mythical giant named Skrúðsbondi – brother of the giant in Papey; but in days gone by these same caves provided shelter for those brave fishermen in-between their dangerous trips out to sea. Reyðarfjörður is the largest of the Eastfjords and served as an Allied base during World War II. If you’re interested

For those who don’t want to miss out on more stunning coastal scenery and would be quite happy to weave in and out of another fjord or two, then continue on the coast road to the pretty fishing towns of Eskifjörður and Neskaupsstaður - a couple of remote scenic treasures, both of which were established by settlers fishing for herring, or ‘the ocean’s silver’. The town of Eskifjörður stands on the fjord’s northern shore and is built on a small sand-spit, overlooked by the towering 985m (323ft.) Hólmatindur peak. The town has a Maritime Museum at Gamla Búð on Standgata 39b, open daily in the summer between 13:00 – 17:00. It also has a ski resort in Oddsskarð known as ‘The Eastern Alps’.

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In the hills behind Eskifjörður there’s an old mine – though it’s now shut down, it used to be the world’s biggest producer of the Iceland-spar mineral.

Neskaupsstaður. From Eskifjörður Rte. 92 leaves the coast and cuts across the Oddskarð mountain pass, which reaches heights of 705m (2,313ft.) above sea level and is lined on either side by lush valleys with interesting plant species and wildlife. The road then descends sharply into Norðfjörður where the pretty village of Neskaupstaðir is located. Though certainly a beautiful town with magnificent scenery, it’s often overlooked by tourists, mainly because of its remote location. In fact until the road linking the town to the rest of the country was constructed in 1947, residents had to travel to and from the town by boat. Despite its isolation, it’s one of the biggest communities in East Iceland and boasts a bustling fishing industry, with boats and ships coming and going all year round.

about 14 people live in Brekkuþorp year-round, and they are clearly people who relish some natureinduced solitude: the road into Mjóifjörður is breathtaking, but it’s open for only about four months of the year (depending on the weather) and 4x4 recommended. The rest of the year, Mjóifjörður is only accessible by scheduled boat from Norðfjörður. The rugged road off Route 1 descends into the fjord and along the northern coast, giving you a road-trip through Mjóifjörður highlights, a collection of natural and historic sites that together tell quite a story. One of the bestknown spots is the beautiful multitiered waterfall Klifbrekkufossar, which cascades down the mountainside. The ravine Prestagil (the Priest’s Ravine) takes its name from a local folktale that tells of a huge troll woman who tried to seduce a priest into the ravine. The small inlet of Smjörvogur was once used as a prison as there was no way in or out of it without assistance. At Asknes you’ll see the remains of an old whaling station, the largest in the world at the time it was built by the Norwegians around 1900, with over 200 hundred workers. Keep driving as far east as you can go and you’ll reach Dalatangi lighthouses (an old one from 1895, and a ‘new’ from 1908), with magnificent panoramas in all directions.

In a narrow fjord just above Neskaupstaðir lies breathtaking Mjóifjörður which is home to just one tiny village, Brekkukorp. Today, only TRAVEL THE EAST

Egilsstaðir

Fljótsdalur Valley

Although often referred to as the capital of the East, Egilsstaðir is actually one of Iceland’s youngest towns. It was established in 1947 with the main purpose of operating a service, trade and educational center for the many nearby seaside villages located in the Eastfjords. Today the town has a number of service businesses, including branches of the country’s biggest companies, plus a busy airport - though it mainly serves domestic traffic, it fills the requirements to land international flights as well.

The charms of the Fljótsdalur valley are numerous, with rich green forests bordering a legendary lake and other places of beauty and splendour; the valley is topped in the southwest by the highlands of Fljótsdalsheiði, where reindeer wander freely, and crowned further in the distance, by the snowtopped spectacular 1,833m (6,013ft.) peak of Snæfell. Following the 84km (52 miles) circular course around the lake, heading out on Rte. 931, will load you with a good day’s worth of lasting impressions.

Unlike many other towns and villages in Iceland, Egilsstaðir and its neighboring areas are characterized by a beautiful green belt of trees and woods. With reforestation programs and agriculture high on the list of priorities, the area is packed with enjoyable forest walks and trails into nearby mountain ranges. Be sure to visit the nearby village of Vallanes’s organic farm and cafe, Móðir Jörð, which is known for its delicious brunch and gift shop. There is also a colorful church close to the farm.

Lake Lögurinn is a deep ribbon lake fed by the glacial waters of the Jökulsá í Fljótsdal river. The lake, which is also referred to as ‘Lagarfljót’, expands from the southwest end of the valley all the way to the bridge between Egilsstaðir and Fellabær, where it continues its flow northeast in river form. According to local legends, similar to those of Loch Ness in Scotland, the lake is the territory of a giant serpent called Lagarfljótsormurinn. First mentioned in some 1345 annals, it was considered a bad omen if the monster was seen peeking out of the water.

In case you hadn’t already seen enough of Iceland’s feathered friends, there are also plenty more opportunities to catch up on a bit of bird-watching in Egilsstaðir. FABULOUS FAUNA the Northeastern highlands are home to around 3,000 wild reindeer - descendants of the herds brought to Iceland from Norway in the late 18th century.

The lake has a set of impressive dimensions and is about 140km (87 miles) long, 112m (367ft.) deep and has a surface area of 53km2 (33m2). At its widest the lake measures 2.5km (1.5 miles).

HOW THE LAKE GOT ITS SNAKE according to folklore a young girl was given a golden ring by her mother, in order to derive as much benefit from the ring as possible she was instructed by her mother to place the ring under a heather-serpent. After several days she found the serpent had grown so big, the linen chest she kept it in was bursting apart. In fear she hurled the chest, serpent and all into the lake where it continued to grow!

If you’re not the superstitious type and fancy your chances of getting a historic snap of the lake monster, then head to the lovely forest beach of Atlavík, where you can hire a boat to explore the lake and frame your snapshots with some beautiful scenery. The eastern banks of the lake have an abundance of green appeal with hiking trails riddled throughout

Hallormstaðarskógur, which is the largest forest in Iceland – an amusing fact for tourists of woodier regions. There’s an interesting stop at Hallormsstaður, a government forestry station in the beautiful Hallormsstaðaskógur, where 80 species of trees from various parts of the world grow. The forest is only 26km (16 miles) from Egilsstaðir, but if you have the time to drive around the lake we recommend a stop at Skriðuklaustur, around 20km (12,5 miles) away from Hallormsstaður on the other side of the lake. Skriðuklaustur is the terrific turf-topped family home of renowned Icelandic author Gunnar Gunnarsson. The two-storey mansion was designed by German architect Fritz Höger and built in 1939; it’s one of the region’s the most recognized buildings and tourist 71

SKRIÐUKLAUSTUR | 65°2’27.0979“ N 14°57’6.7174“ W

attractions. The building is now an educational museum, dedicated to the life and work of the author and also a great lunch stop. Open daily in the summer, between 10:00am - 18:00 (6pm). Skriðuklaustur – 701 Egilsstaðir skriduklaustur.is If you’re one of the serious hikers tempted by the trails around Snæfell - Iceland’s highest mountain, not underneath a glacier - you might want to pop into Snæfellsstofa - Vatnajökull National Park’s regional visitors centre, also located in the grounds of Skriðuklaustur and open daily in the summer between 09:00 – 18:00. Note on weekends the center opens an hour later. vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is Hengifoss. At 118m / 387ft this picturesque waterfall is Iceland’s fourth highest and rather impressive, but it’s the basaltic pillars with bands of crimson clay sandwiched in between that hold your attention. If the flow isn’t too powerful, it’s possible to walk, or rather climb behind the waterfall and explore a small cave.

bring Iceland’s past to life. When you cross the old wooden bridge at the award-winning Wilderness Center, you’ll step into an adventure of the past. Every detail at the premises is designed to make you feel a part in this adventure. The buildings, interior decorations, food, activities and hosts all play a vital role in this experience. The accommodation is in delightfully renovated and preserved old buildings – which may make visitors feel they are “sleeping in a museum.” The hosts prepare all the meals in the historic kitchen in front of the guests with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. The cuisine is based on authentic historical recipes. You can book a variety of locally-guided (optional) activities that bring you even closer to Iceland’s unique nature and history. All activities include a touch of storytelling, in the tradition of the Icelandic Sagas! wilderness.is You can even relax in a charming, rustic Wilderness Spa with hot tubs and

After an adventurous day, it’s great to relax in the Vök Baths, unique floating geothermal pools in a lake outside of town. Vök’s herbal tea bar features delicious blends of local herbs.” Add website: vokbaths.is sauna and great wilderness views.

Wilderness Center The locally-owned and familyoperated Wilderness Center was developed by a film-maker and a historian who used their skills to TRAVEL THE EAST

Seyðisfjörður 27km (17 miles) east of Egilsstaðir along Rte. 93 the scenic town of Seyðisfjörður bustles in a deep, 18km 73

(11 miles) long fjord of the same name. The town, which has plenty of traffic, started trading in 1834, becoming one of the largest towns in Iceland in the latter part of the 19th century. The town is particularly pretty owing to its well preserved collection of colorful Norwegian-style wooden houses. The ferry “Norræna” from Europe arrives in Seyðisfjörður on a weekly basis.

Borgarfjörður Eystri If you’re a fan of Jóhannes Kjarval Iceland’s famous landscape artist, then you’ll be heading north of Egilsstaðir on Rte. 94, to visit his home land and inspiration in Borgarfjörður Eystri, the northernmost of the Eastfjords. On the way, lookout for the magnificent mountain range of Dyrfjöll which

features a remarkable gap in the middle of the mountain. There are many trails to explore around the deserted inlets of Borgafjörður Eystri, such as the mystical mountain trails through Stórurð, with its assortment of blazing colors and breathtaking views, or the beautiful Brúnavík trail with its lovely rhyolite-sand beach; but if you’re looking for something really exceptional for your photo album, visit Hvítserkur – a picturesque mountain which curiously looks like a work of art, where dark veins streak and crisscross in fancy patterns on a massive canvas of brightly colored ignimbrite. QUEEN OF THE ELVES according to Iceland’s enchanting folklore, Borgarfjörður Eystri is the noble kingdom of Elves with the Elf Queen herself residing on a royal rocky hill named Álfaborg (Elf Rock).

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Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel the Northeast The Northeast of Iceland is an expansive region with its own enchanting collection of diverse landscapes and superb scenery - filled to the brim with super-nature. Though it may not be endowed with the ‘fire’ of frequent eruptions and the ‘Ice’ of massive glaciers, it’s still home to some rather impressive attractions, including treasured fishing rivers and legendary landmarks such as Lake Mývatn and Dettifoss - Europe’s most powerful waterfall. With the Krafla central volcano and its feverous geothermal areas located at the core, this beautiful region still beats, though be it quietly, with a molten heart. This region is part of the Arctic Coast Way, Iceland’s first scenic byway. More information is at arcticcoastway.is.

Northeast Coast

and sacred solitude, this vast area is a magnet for those who love to explore the road less travelled, and could easily qualify as the land that time forgot. Please note! Not all the roads are surfaced in this region and you will likely encounter regular stretches of gravel road. These unsurfaced roads can be tricky and dangerous, if not treated with caution.

Vopnafjörður

The villages and attractions of the Northeast are dotted far and wide across the region, with both coastal and inland opportunities available, or a combination of both. For the inland highlights, see the final chapter on the interior of Iceland.

Established in the late 19th Century, Vopnafjörður is a picturesque village on the northeast coast, with beautiful waterfalls, coastal cliffs and black sandy beaches. Unsurprisingly its establishment as a trading post and its prosperity is rooted in the fishing and fish processing industry.

Heading northeast on Rte. 1 > Rte. 917 from Egilsstaðir en route to the town of Húsavík, leads to some of the country’s less visited, unspoiled landscapes which seem to resonate peacefully with pristine beauty. With its misty isolation

Three lush valleys Selárdalur, Hosárdalur and Vesturárdalur line the landscape here, and are divided by two of Iceland’s first class salmon rivers – the plentiful Hofsá river and the Selá

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river - with a combined annual catch of around 2,500 salmon they make tempting treats for ardent anglers! Bustarfell is a nicely preserved 19th century row of farmhouses, fronted with striking crimson façades and topped with tidy turf. The preservation now operates as a museum, café (Croft Café) and occasional concert hall. Visitors to the museum are taken on a journey through the history of farming and changes in lifestyles from the beginning of the 18th century, to the mid 20th century. Most of the artifacts in the collection - including handmade chess pieces and set of baby booties, knitted with human hair - are very distinctive and help to create an impression of what rural life was like in former times. Open daily JuneSept 20, between 10:00am - 17:00 (5pm). Bustarfell 690 Vopnafjörður – bustarfell.is

Langanes is a narrow peninsula, shaped remarkably like a great goose taking flight from the body of Iceland. With such a resemblance, it seems perfectly fitting that this peninsula is populated with a diversity of interesting birdlife. Langanes is the territory of many species such as the Pink-footed Goose, with colonies of King Eider and the scarce Brünnich’s Guillemot. For a closer peek, head to the bird-hide in Lambanes (Rte. 869) on the northern coast of the peninsula. If Gannets are your glory then you’ll be very pleased to learn that the sea stack Karlinn, just in front of Skoruvíkurbjarg on Langanes (smack, bang on the great goose’s forehead!) is home to the largest colony of Gannets in the northeast.

Bakkaflói and Langanes Heading north Rte. 85 cuts inland and exits in the bustling little village of Bakkafjörður which has a varied coastline featuring crowded seastacks teeming with birdlife and numerous little coves and cliffs. Nearby in the Bay of Bakkaflói stands the old farm and church Skeggjastaðir, dating from 1845, the place has been very well maintained and is worth a quick visit. While in the area look out for Stapi, a little further west of Skeggjastaðir, where a strange looking rock rises sharply out of the sea.

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Melrakkaslétta

ISN’T IT GOOD, SIBERIAN WOOD? the shores of the Northeast are “white” with driftwood originating in the rivers of Siberia. It’s estimated that the driftwood takes around five years to reach Iceland after a lengthy trip around the north pole, and is finally delivered to the northeast shores by the East-Greenland Stream. With Iceland’s lack of forests this abundance of driftwood was highly valued and used for building homes, boats and furniture. Perhaps the only people who didn’t see this wood as a godsend were the witches and sorcerers burned during the middle ages on driftwood pyres. The Northeast, with its wealthy supply of this sea-born treasure, has the dreadful record of torching the most.

Þórshöfn Nestled in the cove of Lónafjörður in the broad Þistilfjörður fjord is Þórshöfn - a small but lively village and service centre, and the launch point for excursions into Langanes. Before heading out to explore the misty moorlands and driftwood beaches, make a stop at the Sauðaneshús museum for information on fishing, birdwatching and horseback riding in the area. Sauðanes – 681 Þórshöfn TRAVEL THE NORTH EAST

Raufarhöfn, located on the shingle shores of the Melrakkaslétta peninsula, is Iceland’s northernmost village - at least on the mainland. It was once at the core of the herring industry, attracting people in their thousands for employment, but since the decline in herring, the population and prosperity has diminished significantly. Dotted around the area is a treasure of lovely lakes and ponds ideal for fishing and bird watching. A pleasant trail leads from Raufarhöfn to the Ólafsvatn lake. The village also offers a good service stop, and its tourist center at Hotel Norðurljós provides information and resources on the entire Melrakkaslétta region. Aðalbraut 2 – hotelnordurljos.is The Arctic Henge. On a hill just north of the town, a 54 m (177 ft.) sundial henge is under construction, inspired by the mythical world of the Edda poem Völuspá (Prophecy of the Seeress). When completed a large crystal perched on top of an 8 m (26 ft.) column will throw the light of the arctic sun upon the henge, and its 72 pillar dwarf path, which traces the passage of time over the course of a year. Each dwarf pillar will specify its name and character, and visitors will be able to locate their own birthday dwarf! Rauðinúpur. Located on the northwest tip of the peninsula, just a few kilometers south of the arctic circle, this impressive crimson-tinted sea stack, generates an ‘edge of the earth’ type of fascination.

Back on the Rte. 85 to Húsavík, the road curves into Öxarfjörður or Axe fjord, which rather resembles a broad bay than a fjord, and through the tiny hamlet of Kópasker. Continuing south (on a much smoother road) through the complex shallow lakes of Bakkahlaup, the road leads to Ásbyrgi – a great ‘U’ shaped gorge at the northern end of the magnificent Jökulsárgljúfur canyon. ÁSBYRGI – THE GODS’ BASTION. According to legend, this distinctive clifflined landmark and its hoof-shaped form was created by a mythical creature called Sleipnir - Odin’s giant eight-legged horse. As the story goes, one starlit night while the great Norse god Odin was riding his horse through the heavens, he descended a little too close to the earth, so close that Sleipnir touched down with one hoof and tore up the surface, thus creating the magnificent Ásbyrgi. Alternatively, it could have been created by a massive ancient glacial flood. Apparently no human witnesses were around at the time to confirm either story, so we’ll never know for sure!

Vatnajökull National park Jökulsárgljúfur (Rte. 864 & Rte. 862). Gargling with the purest water, even with a twist of lemon, will not help you pronounce this national treasure of Iceland. But trying is a fun challenge and a recommended activity! This tongue-twisting natural wonder translates as Glacial-River-Canyon, and sums up its basic features, but to elaborate on its more distinguishing qualities, Jökulsárgljúfur is a deep 100 m (328 ft.) rugged canyon, extending 30 km (18.5 m) south of Ásbyrgi, and is divided by a 35 km stretch of the mighty Jökulsá á Fjöllum glacial river. Located within the extensive Vatnajökull National Park region, the area is renowned for its wondrous rock formations and thunderous falls, such as Dettifoss - touted regularly as Europe’s most powerful waterfall. Dettifoss (Rte. 864/862). The knowledge that this is Europe’s most powerful waterfall, does not quite prepare you for its breathtaking formidable force. The immense column of white-foaming water thundering over a 44 m (144 ft.) drop, dispatches some 500 m3 (17,658 ft.3) of water per second, creating a magnificent and terrifying vision of the sheer force of nature, even the ground beneath you vibrates. See also the neighbouring falls Hafragilsfoss and Selfoss, though captivating, they are significantly dwarfed by the force of Dettifoss.

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DETTIFOSS | 65°48’56.5344“ N 16°23’15.99“ W

Hljóðaklettar (or Echo Cliffs) is a great labyrinth of reverberating crags and basalt rock formations, located on the west side of the canyon (Rte. 862). Many of these fascinating structures are patterned with honeycomb textures, which act as sound processors coloring the noise of the river with interesting levels of distortion. For another sensational walking experience visit the Hólmatungur nature reserve, accessed from the same road, featuring colorful rock formations and rich flora.

Húsavík Back on Rte. 85, the road stretches west and around the periphery of the Tjörnes peninsula, where fossil fanatics can stop at the Hallbjarnarstaðir farm to study their collection of local specimens. About 12 km further along the road you’ll reach Húsavík – the whale watching capital of Iceland. This charming town, complete with a pleasant fishy fragrance, is situated in a picturesque fjord surrounded by majestic mountains topped with snow, even in the summertime! It’s also a thriving

commercial center for the surrounding agricultural areas, as well as a busy fishing port. The town is now wellknown from the popular 2020 film Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is For centuries, the residents of Húsavík have leveraged the mineral-rich hot sea water provided by geothermal energy. Now, you can also enjoy the benefits of bathing in these warm waters by making a visit to GeoSea, a brand-new outdoor bathing facility. While you are enjoying a soak, be sure to take in the spectacular views of the mountain range to the west and the Arctic Circle to the north. Opening hours and admission prices are available on their website. Geosea.is The Húsavík Whale Museum, is the only museum on marine mammals in Iceland, and provides information on whale species, their evolution and biology, as well as whale stranding and the history of whaling. Open daily from April - October, November - March open during weekdays. Hafnarstétt 1 – whalemuseum.is Recommended café and restaurants in Húsavík include Gamli Baukur located right at the pier in a charming house made mainly of drift wood, and the Salka restaurant on Garðarsbraut. South of Húsavík Rte. 85 divides into two new roads, Rte. 245 and Rte. 87, both leading to the Mývatn area.

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Egilsstaðir to Mývatn From Egilsstaðir to Mývatn Rte. 1 threads 167 km (104 miles) through the Fljótsdalur valley, the uplands heaths of Jökuldalsheiði, and a cold desert of barren plains, covered with volcanic ash and glacial deposits. Remains of settlements dating from 1841–1946 can be seen in this area, formerly occupied by inhabitants who fled to America after the volcanic eruption of Askja in 1875. On a clear day, the lack of vegetation on this route is compensated for by the fascinating vistas, featuring remote lakes, rocky passes and rushing streams. But, when the rain shadows and the mist descends, obscuring the view, the atmosphere becomes charged with an eerie presence, creating the brooding mood and scenery that ghost stories are made of! Sænautasel. To break up the long journey west, visit Sænautasel Rte. 901> 907, an unexpected restored turf farm on the desolate Jökuldalsheiði heathlands. Situated by a lake with pleasant green surroundings, it creates a welcome vision, seemingly from another age. The farm dates back to 1843 and was operational until 1943, except for the period between 1875-1880 when the ash from the Askja eruption made the site uninhabitable.

restored by the local community and is kept open during the summer, exhibiting its antiques from bygone times in their proper setting. Möðrudalur Rte. 901. Standing at an altitude of 469 m (1,539 ft.) overlooking the magnificent Mt. Herðubreið, this remote sheep farm, which dates back to the Saga age, is Iceland’s highest farm. Since the settlement of Iceland it was crossed by two Saga trails (Bishops and Sámur) and was an important waypoint for Icelanders for many years. With its quaint Fjalladýrð Café it’s still providing good food and accommodation for weary travelers. Note, Rte. 901 may be closed outside of the June-September period. Möðrudal – fjalladyrd.is Dettifoss. Rte. 864/862. The interior gravel roads to Dettifoss are usually open from mid June to mid September. If closed head to Húsavík on Rte. 87>85 and around the Tjörnes peninsula for access from the other side. MANGA OF MÖÐRADALUR The last pastor of Möðrudalur – Bjarni Jónsson, is said to have been haunted by the ghost of his first wife Margrét ‘Manga’, who tragically died during the birth of their first child. Before she died the pastor promised her that he would never marry again, but when he broke his promise, her ghostly presence caused quite a commotion, especially with his subsequent wives.

Farm life on this high heath was extremely difficult and consisted more or less of trying to keep the sheep alive from year to year. The farm was TRAVEL THE NORTH EAST

The Mývatn Area Mývatn is an extraordinary area full of geological marvels and teeming with life. The unique characteristics of the lake and its unusual environment have made it one of the Northeast’s major attractions, especially with its combination of rich bird life, ecology, and geothermal activity. During the summer the bird population explodes and the lake is covered with countless species, making good use of the waterside’s rich fauna and flora for nesting. The area is protected by international law as an important breeding area, so it’s definitely not the spot for trigger-happy hunters! But, for some harmless bird-watching, look out for ducks, ducks and more ducks - all Icelandic species bar the Eider, breed in this area. Assuming you know your birds, you can also spot some great Northern Divers, Red-necked Phalaropes, Slovenian Grebes, Redthroated Divers and Merlins. If you’re lucky you may even spot a Gyrfalcon or two. THE MIDGES OF MÝVATN When you discover that the translation of Mývatn is ‘Midge Lake’ you’ll understand why some people visiting the area are sporting strange looking head-nets, while the less savvy and fashion conscious are seen desperately flapping their arms around their heads. The midges don’t bite, but because they are attracted to carbon dioxide, they tend to head straight up your nose and into your mouth.

The Krafla Central Volcano is part of 82

the Greater Krafla Volcanic System (a swath of faults and fissures 4-10 km (2.5-6 miles) wide and 80 km (50 miles) from north to south) and not to be confused with the gentle nearby mountain ‘Krafla’ that lent its name to both areas. The caldera (not the crater) of the Krafla Central Volcano is located at the center of the volcanic system; its sizable ring - which has diameter of 10 km (6 miles), is difficult of make out from the ground. This volcano’s rise to blazing fame arrived with the ‘Krafla Fires’ of the 70’s and 80’s, when huge curtains of lava spewed from a system of fissures inside the huge caldera. The Kafla Geothermal Area (Rte. 863) is located within the caldera and includes many of the attractions the region is known for, such as the mud bubbling, steam venting fields of Hverir, the smoldering lava fields of Leirhnjúkur (see below) and the Víti crater. The word “víti” translates as “hell” which is inspired by the ancient belief that volcanoes were the gateways to the netherworld of eternal damnation. If you’re curious about how geothermal heat is cleverly converted into electricity, check out the exhibition at the Krafla Geothermal Power Station, also on Rte. 863. Leirhnjúkur (Rte. 863). In this surreal area you can witness the still smouldering lava fields from the 1975 - 1984 eruptions. A vast magma chamber lies under the region, in some parts as close to the surface as 3 km (1,9 miles). From the car park, a circular footpath leads around the volcano TRAVEL THE NORTH EAST

and up to its summit, where there’s a beautiful view over the impressive volcanic landscapes. Don’t let the incredible surroundings distract from your vigilance though, beware of light colored earth when crossing the hightemperature areas and wear good walking boots; especially on rainy days when there’s a considerable amount of mud, making the area super slippery. Námafjall. Close to Rte. 1 south of the Krafla region, this mountain ridge is singed and boiled by sulphurous vapours. The area is famous for its colorful solfataras and fumaroles, where a collection of hot viscous mud pools create a rhythmic bubbling soundtrack to accompany to the fabulous colors and patterns created within. Note, please be very careful here and show extreme caution. The mud is scorching hot and the splashes are unpredictable.

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The Nature-Baths (Rte. 1) This geothermal spa is the North’s answer to the famous Blue Lagoon in the South. Like its southern counterpart, it contains a unique blend of minerals, silicates and geothermal microorganisms, giving the water a pearly blue appearance. This relatively new spa has remarkable views over the lake and is the perfect warm and wonderful place to relax and witness some of those sensational Icelandic summer sunsets. Jarðbaðshólar – 660 Mývatn – myvatnnaturebaths.is

Lake Mývatn. With every season revealing a new perspective of the same landscape it’s difficult not to be impressed with the diversity of Iceland; whether it be the pretty green shades of summer or the dazzling contrasts of basalt rock on the fiery reds and oranges of the birch forests in autumn. Lake Mývatn, for example, is lush and lovely during the summer months; but the lesser observed winter can set a completely different scene, with snow-laden banks and frosted foliage that frame an enchanting image of the lake’s swans as they glide through the misty waters, permeated here and there by golden rays of sunlight. Yes, contrary to popular belief, the sun does shine in the winter, even if only for a few hours. The lake itself, is shallow but amongst the largest in Iceland, with a surface 84

area of 36 km2 / 14sq. miles. It’s situated in the Great Krafla Volcanic System, not far from Krafla Central Volcano and was created by a large basaltic lava eruption 2,300 years ago. The surrounding landscape is dominated by impressive volcanic landforms, such as the incredible ‘black castles’ of Dimmuborgir, see below. Reykjahlíð. Arriving in the small village of Reykjahlíð, Rte. 1 delivers you to the northeast shore of the lake, from here, there’s a well-marked trail connecting some of the best sights the region has to offer including Grjótagjá, Hverfjall and Dimmuborgir. Grjótagjá (Rte. 860) is a water-filled chasm inside a cave, and was once a popular place to bathe - until the ‘Krafla Fires’ erupted. The clear blue water still looks very temping, but it’s TRAVEL THE NORTH EAST

too hot to take a dip. The water is slowly cooling, so hopefully in a few more years people will be able to enjoy a soak like they used to. Note, steps down to the water can be tricky. Hverfjall is a circular tephra ring, which resembles a giant moon crater. It was formed around 2,800 years ago during an explosive eruption near Mývatn. The bowl measures 1,040-1,200 m (3.4113.936 ft.) in diameter and 150 m high (492 ft.). It’s a fairly easy climb to the top.

Skútustaðargígar Pseudo Craters. On the south side of Lake Mývatn there’s cluster of colorful and beautifully formed pseudo craters situated close to Skútustaðir - easily accessible on foot. The Bird Museum (Fuglasafn Sigurgeirs) is a fascinating private collection of Icelandic birds, now open to the public. Ytri Neslöndum – 660 Mývatn – fuglasafn.is If you have the time to spare and would like to visit Askja Caldera, please contact our customer care for further information.

Dimmuborgir. Translated as “Black Castles”, this is a magnificent lava landscape, with a labyrinth of caves, rugged crags and strange lava formations - one of the most impressive sculptures is an enormous arch, known as Kirkjan (The Church). There are three different routes marked for walking, but don’t wonder off the marked paths, you may not find your way back to civilization! Höfði is an impressive nature park with rich flora, fauna and panoramic views of the lake. TRAVEL THE NORTH EAST

Recommended café in Mývatn include the Vogafjós Café Rte. 1 located inside a cowshed where you can observe the milking process, and try out the taste of fresh raw milk. The cows are milked twice per day, and customers are encouraged to have a go at milking as well. The emphasis is on home made local food such as smoked trout, Mozzarella cheese (from their own milk) and geyser bread, baked uniquely in the hot earth. vogafjos.net Gamli Bærinn is a small café and casual restaurant, with a nice atmosphere close to Hotel Reynihlíð.

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel the North Considering the northern points of Iceland stretch outwards towards the Arctic Circle and are washed by the icy Greenland Sea, it might come as a pleasant surprise to discover that the climate of this region is curiously warmer, drier and sunnier than in the south. If you look at the shape of the region on a map, you’ll notice how the Tröllaskagi peninsula in particular is marked with a density of high convoluted mountain ranges, divided by deep valleys and veined with numerous rivers. Apart from the cozy climate and the interesting topography, being so far north, the region is illuminated with a different intensity of light across all seasons, and is especially famous for its spectacular sunsets, where the sun never fully sets and instead, blazes on the horizon in a protracted state of golden glory until dawn.

Between Mývatn & Akureyri Goðafoss. Conveniently located just off Rte. 1 Goðafoss is the landmark waterfall of the north and renowned not only for its beauty, but for the interesting story of its name, which translates as ‘Waterfall of the Gods’. Goðafoss is a horseshoe-shaped waterfall with an interesting design where rocky promontories interrupt the flow, channeling it rather symmetrically 86

into a series of terrific torrents. It is fed by the icy blue waters of the Skjálfandafljót River, which flow all the way from Vatnajökull glacier, and fall thunderously into an impressive 3km / 1.9 mile long canyon cut through a 7,000 year old lava field. Waterfall of the gods. According to the Sagas, in the year 1000, the law-speaker Þorgeir of Ljósavatn returned from Alþingi – with the decision that the Icelandic state would convert to Christianity - and disposed ceremoniously of the pagan Norse idols into the falls. Aldeyarfoss. West of Goðafoss on Rte. 842 the Aldeyjarfoss waterfall with its powerful discharge of 90 tons/ second of water into a strange chasm of twisted basalt columns, is well worth the detour inland. Vaglaskógur in Fnjóskadalur Rte. 836 is a beautiful birch forest and one of the few original surviving wooded areas of Iceland. Most of the other natural forests were over-exploited or perished TRAVEL THE NORTH

during the mini ice-age, between 1400 and 1900. The trees in this forest range from between five and ten meters tall and provide plenty of leafy respite from the vast treeless expanses of Iceland. Laufás. On Rte. 83 about 30 km (19 miles) north of Akureyri, Laufás is a well preserved 19th century farm and parsonage, now functioning as a museum. Built in a lovely meadow on the east side of the Eyjafjörður peninsula, this well known stop on the northern route is another example of how old Icelandic architecture inspired the turf-topped dwellings of J.R.R.Tolkein’s much loved Hobbits. At the old-fashioned café shop next door, you can try out some tasty traditional meals, such as bread baked with TRAVEL THE NORTH

mountain moss (fjallagras) and rhubarb pie. Laufás – 600 Akureyri - akmus.is Safnasafnið. If you’re interested in seeing how boundaries between different genres of art are successfully erased, then there’s a quirky little arthouse and picnic stop, conveniently located on the ring road, around 11 km (7 miles) from Akureyri. The endearing qualities of this gallery are found in its emphasis on sincerity, its lack of artistic snobbery and its focus on combining folk art with outsider art. The curators here are known to scour the country looking for quality specimens from both known and unknown artists. Svalbarðsströnd – 601 Akureyri safnasafnid.is

Akureyri Akureyri is the northern capital of Iceland and noted particularly for its picturesque town center at the heart of the Eyjafjörður fjord. As Rte. 1 descends into the east side of the fjord, look out for the viewing platforms where you can stop and admire the town from across the water; visitors are often pleasantly surprised by its population of charming traditional houses, thick inbetween with trees and vegetation. Established in 1787, Akureyri is the main trading hub and service center of the North and a popular base for tourists wanting to explore the many highlights and attractions of the region. The town itself has a wealth of interesting locations and activities, with a variety of museums, art galleries and open air swimming pools, with no shortage of hiking trails, horse-riding tours and sailing/fishing opportunities. It also boasts the world’s most northerly botanic garden, a ski resort and an international airport. As host of the annual Artic Open, the region attracts golfers from around the world who come to play golf during a period when the sun never goes down – at least not completely!

The accommodation options in Akureyri are diverse and range from small hostels to quality hotels. There’s also a collection of restaurants - which tend to use locally produced ingredients in their dishes, and a modest selection of charismatic café-houses, concentrated mainly in the town center and in the trendy Listagil area - a street exclusively dedicated to culture, art and fine food.

THE REMARKABLE ICELANDIC HORSE Although they may look like ponies, the horses found in Iceland are sought after purebreds with unique characteristics and five gaits – apart from the usual walks and gallops of other horses the Icelandic horse can perform the comfortable and smooth ‘tölt’ gait. In recent years the Icelandic horse has become an extremely valuable breed and sought after throughout the world for export. Thirteen of these wonderful horses were used in the production of the Peter Jackson’s film adaptation of J.R.R.Tolkien’s epic fantasy novel The Hobbit.

The nightlife in Akureyri is rather vibrant for a town of only 17,200 people, with some popular live music venues and nightclubs such as Græni Hatturinn. Græni Hatturinn – Hafnarstræti 96.

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Hof Culture House. This basalt covered cultural house is a relatively new addition to the picture-postcard view of Akureyri. Apart from housing the local tourist information centre, Hof is designed with an acoustically sophisticated concert hall and has first rate facilities for hosting conferences and other cultural events. Maps of Akureyri and the surrounding areas are available at the tourist information centre. Open daily in the summer between 7:30am - 19:00 (7pm). Strandgata 12 – visitakureyri.is Sjónlistamiðstöðin – Center for Visual Arts. Apart from exhibiting the talents of home grown artists such as Erró, this modest gallery in the northern quarter of Iceland has displayed collections from some rather impressive names in the world of art including: Matthew Barney, Louise Bourgeois, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Fang Lijun, Goya, Jenny Holzer, Per Kirkeby, Sally Mann, Yue Minjun, Orlan, Rembrandt, Carolee Schneemann, Andres Serrano, Laila Shawa, Bill Viola, Joel-Peter Witkin and Zhang Xiaogang. Kaupvangstræti 12 – listak.is/en Nonnahús – Nonni’s House is a museum dedicated to the memory of children’s author Jón Sveinsson, and located in his childhood home on Aðalstræti 54. The museum is named after his most popular character and literary creation ‘Nonni’, who together with his brother Manni, lived on a remote farm in North Iceland and had all sorts of adventures there. The stories have been translated into at least 40 languages - including Esperanto! Aðalstræti 54 – nonni.is TRAVEL THE NORTH

Minjasafn á Akureyri - Akureyri Museum. Next door to Nonnahús is Akureyri’s own preservation of cultural history dating back to the settlement of Eyjafjörður in the years 874 -1000. The museum also covers the development of Akureyri as a town since the early 19th century. Aðalstræti 58 – minjasafnid.is The Botanical Garden in the summertime is an unexpected paradise of trees, flowers and shrubs with stunning views overlooking the fjord. It’s the northernmost botanical garden in the world and was established by some of the local women in 1912, with the botanical section opening in 1957. Walking through the beautiful garden with its abundance of rich flora is a pleasant and peaceful experience and the perfect place to contemplate the diversity of life. Growing in the garden beds and nurseries are thousands of plant species, with around 430 that are native to Iceland. Apart from being a center of research and education, the botanical garden also functions as an important seed bank. Located on Eyrarlandsvegur. Eyrarlandsholt lystigardur.akureyri.is. Flugsafn Íslands - The Aviation Museum has been delighting fans of aviation with its collection of antique planes and gliders since it opened 1999. The collection includes 25 planes, with one display exhibiting the wreckage of a British war plane which crashed into a glacier in 1941. Apart from the planes, the museum has a valuable collection of interesting information on the history and development of aviation in Iceland

since the year 1919. Akureyri Domestic Airport – flugsafn.is

to the familiar melodies of Christmas carols being played in the background.

Kjarnaskógur Forest. Given its remarkable density and coverage (approx. 600 ha) it’s hard to believe that this beautiful forest, just south of the town, didn’t exist before the year 1952. Since the first trees were planted, there’s been a sustained effort to plant more and over the years a record one million trees, of various species, have now been planted. The forest is a wonderful recreational area, complete with playgrounds, picnic and barbecue facilities, and a network of enchanting trails for walking or mountain biking. During Akureyri’s snowy winters, around 10km of illuminated trails are prepared for cross county skiing.

In the charming little garden surrounding the house, look out a few extra Christmas treats, including a turret with the world’s biggest advent calendar, a wishing well and probably the most festive restroom in the world! Slétta – 601 Akureyri.

Jólagarðurinn - The Christmas House. Warning! Not an attraction for the Grinch-hearted! A few kilometers south of Akureyri on Rte. 821, there’s an enchanting shop designed as a fairytale house topped with faux candy and dedicated to the magic of Christmas. Visitors stepping into the house are transported to Christmas heaven where a beautiful selection of quality decorations from around the world augment an exhibition of traditional Icelandic Christmas themed items - handcrafted locally. To complete the festive atmosphere, aromas of cinnamon and peppermint mingle with the smell of smoked lamb and burning wood embers. The sound of them crackling in the hearth adds

THE YULE TIDE LADS advent in Iceland starts 13 days before Christmas where the first of the 13 Yuletide Lads - with names like ‘Candle Sneaker’ and ‘Sausage Swiper’ - descend from their mountain homes to cause some mischief, and deliver presents or punishments to sleeping children. The naughty ones tend to wake up to find a potato in their stockings!

There are many swimming pools in Akureyri, with the biggest and perhaps most beautiful located on Þingvallastræti, not far from the town centre. Þingvallastræti 21. sundlaug.is For activites in and around Akureyri, please visit our website icelandtravel.is or the local tourist information center at Hof. You can also book tours in the app.

Tröllaskagi - The Troll Peninsula Most visitors leaving Akureyri, stay on Rte. 1 and head straight for the Northwest cutting across the Öxnadalur Valley towards Skagafjörður - which has its own collection of striking scenery. However, if you have time for a new epic chapter of impressive fairy TRAVEL THE NORTH

tale landscapes, then take the detour on Rte. 82 around the spectacular coastline of the Troll Peninsula, where the roads traverse emerald green valleys overshadowed by monster mountains - aptly named after their gigantic storybook counterparts, ascend the rising heights of sheer cliffs and occasionally disappear into the darkness of narrow tunnels. Hrísey is a small island located in the middle of Eyjafjörður and a memorable destination, especially because of the exceptional views of the midnight sun and the surrounding fjord. The island is known to have been inhabited since the 10th century and has a current population of around 200 people, who still regard their old habits and traditions with high importance. The island is well serviced and includes a guesthouse, a restaurant, a camp site, a café, a shop and a thermal swimming pool. The island is renowned for its rich birdlife, its harvest of blue oysters, and its popular tractor-driven sightseeing trips around the island. Hosted within the island’s oldest building is an interesting shark exhibition at the ‘House of Shark Jörundur’. The house also serves as the island’s visitor information centre. Hrísey info Center – hrisey.is/en The ferry to Hrísey takes around 15 minutes and departs from Árskógasandur harbor. Contact the ferry line, Hríseyjarferjan Sævar, for more information. Hríseyjarferjan Sævar – hrisey.is/en TRAVEL THE NORTH

Dalvík is a tiny town tucked away between the glimmering Arctic Ocean and the magnificent mountains of West Eyjafjörður. Once a year this small sociable society, of around 2,000 people, ambitiously invites the whole country for a fish themed summer feast and festival called ‘Fiskidagurinn mikli’. Over the years the event has attracted over 200,000 guests and has become very popular in Iceland. The free food, which includes the traditional great fish grill and fabulous fish soup, is served up by some of Iceland’s master chefs, and while you’re enjoying the feast, you’ll also be entertained with music, theatre and a marvelous exhibition of marine life. In case you’re not in town during the festival, there are plenty of other activities to pursue including: whale watching, horse riding in the beautiful Svarfaðardalur Valley or swimming in the lovely local pool. The town also has a traditional folk museum featuring a taxidermy polar bear and some farming artefacts; perhaps a more intriguing focus of the museum is on the man known as ‘the Giant’ or Jóhann Svarfdælingur, who at 2.34 meters (7ft. 8 in.) was at one point in time, the tallest man in the world. The harbor in Dalvík has a large fishing and commercial port, and also serves as the departure point of the ‘Sæfari’ ferry which serves the island of Grímsey (see below).

Grímsey is the true north of Iceland, and is the only part of the country located within the Arctic Circle. Needless to say the sunsets here are remarkable during the summer, with unparalleled views of the northern lights in the winter. The population of the island has stayed relatively stable over the years with between 90 and 100 inhabitants. Norlandair flies daily to the island during the summer, and three times a week in winter. norlandair.is

Fjallabyggð Ólafsfjörður. From Dalvík Rte. 82 winds up a sheer mountain in vertigo inducing style to some ear popping heights, and then disappears into a dark mountain tunnel; beside the mouth of the tunnel there’s a viewing platform at the edge of the promontory with breathtaking views of the fjord - you may have to overcome your fear of heights to make this a snapshot stop though! After a 3.5km (2 miles) trip through the belly of the mountain, the road exits the darkness and descends into the bustling little fishing village of Ólafsfjörður. Another tunnel from Ólafsfjörður leads to the neighbouring village of Siglufjörður via the uninhabited Héðinsfjörður fjord. Before the Héðinsfjörður tunnel was completed in 2010, visitors to Siglufjörður would continue on Rte. 82 inland and travel 62km (38.5 miles) through the highland pass Lágheiði - when Lágheiði was closed people would have to travel further afield via the 232 km Öxnadalur Valley.

MOUNTAIN TUNNELS encountering one of Iceland’s narrow mountain tunnels for the first time can be quite an alarming experience, especially when you realize some are designed with only one lane. So what happens when you meet a car coming in the opposite direction? Every now and then little pockets of space appear on one side of the tunnel, the vehicles with pockets located to the right of them, must yield to the oncoming traffic. If travelling on a sunny day, it’s a good idea to have some sunglasses at hand for the blazing bright light at the end of the tunnel.

Fljót. This sparsely populated region is accessed by continuing on Rte. 82 from Ólafsfjörður, and ascending the highlands of Lágheiði, where misty green mountains press closely to the winding road, progressively exerting their dominating presence. The scenery as you descend on the other side is simply spectacular, as is the valley of Fljót, which is characterised by snowtopped convoluted mountains and superior green pastures. Fans of Keith Carradine, may recognise some of the scenery of this region from his film Falcon. From Fljót you can head north and around the coastline to Siglufjörður or west and on to the highlights of the Skagafjörður region. TRAVEL THE NORTH

THE LEGEND OF BLÁKÁPA once upon a time in the northern settlement of Fljót on the Tröllaskagi peninsula lived a woman named Blákápa or Blue-Cloak, who - in a bid to keep out trespassers - built a wall across the entire valley extending from the top of one mountain to the top of the other. When she died, all her treasures were buried including a mysterious silver belt. According to the legend, anyone who could cross the valley wall, walking backwards and without looking back or falling off, could claim her buried treasure as their own.

Siglufjörður is one of Iceland’s best known fishing villages, beautifully situated in a steep-sided fjord and enclosed by a range of rugged, lofty mountains. For over a century this town was one of Iceland’s most significant fishing and whaling towns, especially during first half of the 20th century. At its peak, the town was even known as the herring capital of the world with a prosperous economy and home to over 3000 people. But when the fish population declined, so did the number of inhabitants. It still operates as a fishing town, but has a new emphasis on tourism.

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Apart from the usual selection of shops and services offered at small Icelandic towns, Siglufjörður or ‘Sigló’ - as the locals refer to it, has a couple of interesting exhibitions, a nine-hole golf course and a fantastic new restaurant called Hannes Boy Café. hannesboy.is The town was a filming location for the popular Icelandic thriller show Trapped.

Sildarminjasafnið – The Herring Era Museum is a beautifully curated and an award-winning museum, offering and offers a remarkable glimpse into an industry that generated, at various points in history, over a quarter of the country’s export income. sild.is

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel the North - West North-West Iceland is defined primarily by the coastal areas around Húnaflói Bay and Skagafjörður Fjord. You can bypass most of this area by sticking to the Ring Road (Rte. 1) as, sadly, most people do. Among the things they are missing are seal-watching at Vatnsnes Peninsula, a 19th century stone church at Þingeyrar, Iceland’s bestpreserved 19th century farm buildings at Glaumbær, the seat of Iceland’s northern bishopric in the Catholic era at Hólar, and a stack of pretty lakes, waterfalls, rivers and peaks. THE ICELANDIC HORSE Skagafjörður is known for wonderful horse breeding and you will find numerous farms offering horse back riding and shows in the area. The Icelandic Viking horse is renowned for being sturdy, independent, friendly, spirited and sure-footed. The Icelandic horse possesses five natural gaits: the Walk, Trot, Canter, Tolt, and Pace. The tolt is a fifth gait specific to only a handful of breeds in the world and provides a smooth ride that feels like gliding. In fact, riders often demonstrate this smooth gait by carrying a tray of drinks at full speed without spilling a drop!

Skagafjörður links the Arctic Ocean with the highlands and is an area central to Icelandic history and culture. It is the site of significant events during the 13th century civil war and of key cultural developments in the centuries afterwards. There are several large

glacial rivers in Skagafjörður that are ideal for river rafting. If your journey is bypassing Skagafjörður via the Ring Road (Rte. 1) then one of the most striking landscapes you’ll see as you cross between the North and the North West is in the Öxnadalur Valley near Hraun. Keep your eyes on the mountain tops on the northern side of the valley and you’ll see the stunning serrated outline of a mountain ridge, reminiscent of Catalonia’s aptly named Montserrat (‘serrated mountain’). The highest pinnacle is called Hraundrangi (1,075m / 3,526ft), where climbers have found the flat area at the top to be less than half a square meter! The fishing hamlet of Hofsós, halfway up Skagafjörður’s eastern shore off Rte. 76, was a trading post as far back at the 1500s and later became a launching point for many of Iceland’s emigrants to North America. Many of these emigrants’ descendants still return to Hofsós to visit its Emigration TRAVEL THE NORTH WEST

Museum and genealogical centre. Some of the town’s 18th century buildings are well preserved, and others replicate a similar style, giving Hofsós an appealing olden-days quality. We recommend visiting the town’s local swimming pool, which is located on the cliff tops with spectacular views across Skagafjörður Fjord to Mt. Tindastóll. The permanent exhibit at the Icelandic Emigration Center (Vesturfarasetrið) details Icelandic emigration in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and the fate of settlements from Utah to Brazil. By 1914, 15,000 Icelanders—almost 20% of the population at the time—had left for the New World. hofsos.is Just south of Hofsós is Gröf, a pretty turf-roofed church dating originally from the late 1600s (off Rte. 76). Given the age of its timber supports, Gröf is the oldest church building in Iceland and has been kept by the National Museum since 1939. Hólar is a historic, cultural and educational centre, inland from Skagafjörður Fjord on Rte. 767. The Hóladómkirkja cathedral there displays perhaps the best artifacts of any church in Iceland. Hólar owes its existence to the 11th century northern Icelanders who insisted Skálholt – where Iceland’s first Catholic bishop was installed – was too far away to serve their spiritual needs. In addition to the cathedral, there is a small university at Hólar specializing in tourism, aquaculture and equine sciences. TRAVEL THE NORTH WEST

Built in 1763, the Hóladómkirkja cathedral is Iceland’s oldest stone church, built with local red sandstone and basalt. On display at the cathedral is a 1584 Bible and a 1620 painting of a Hólar bishop – significant for being the oldest known portrait of an Icelander. Other noteworthy features include a 16th century crucifix, a 17th century soapstone baptismal font and an impressive wooden altarpiece made around the year 1500, depicting a painted impression of the Passion of Christ. The altar’s side panels swivel inward, revealing additional paintings. Other structures at Hólar are Nýibær, a preserved 19th century turf farmhouse, and Auðun’s House (Auðunarstofa), a reconstruction of a 14th century bishop’s residence, built using 14th century building methods. holar.is Flugumýri (Rte. 7 6, 3 km off Rte. 1 heading north) is an Icelandic horse farm that arranges riding tours and horse exhibitions. Flugumýri was once home to a 13th century chieftain and the remains of a fort are still visible on a hill south-east of the farmstead. Varmahlíð is a small village situated at the junction of Rte. 1 and 75. It is a convenient pit-stop for travelers and a good place to arrange tours such as horse riding or snow-mobiling. Hestasport offers horse-riding tours in the Hofsós and Hólar area, as well as the Kjölur route through the interior to Gullfoss and Geysir, including tours in conjunction with local sheep round-ups in late summer/early autumn.

You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website icelandtravel.is The small turf church at Víðimýri, off Rte. 1 as you head south-west from Varmahlíð, has wooden gables, a turf roof, and thick sod walls. The church was built in 1834 and its charm is only enhanced by the tranquil meadow setting. Glaumbær Museum is an old farm with traditional turf buildings, parts of which date back to the 18th century. Glaumbær was a farmstead long before then too, and Guðríður Þorbjarnardóttir – the first woman to go to America and the one who gave birth to the first baby in North America of European decent – lived at Glaumbær in the 11th century. There are several buildings at Glaumbær including a church. The buildings were constructed and rebuilt at different times over the centuries, and the size of the farmstead is an indication that it was once a prosperous farm. There are some fascinating artifacts at Glaumbær, including a driftwood bureau, a whale-tooth snuff box and a willow-root basket allegedly made by Fjalla-Eyvindur (‘Eyvindur of the mountains’), a beloved 18th century outlaw who appears in many Icelandic stories, myths, plays and songs. Glaumbær is north of Varmahlíð on Rte. 75, and in one of the 19th century houses is Áskaffi, a charming café that serves traditional pastries and other light fare in a grandmotherly living room. glaumbaer.is

TURF ROOF HOUSES OF THE FUTURE a number of factors led to the popularity of turf-roofed dwellings in Iceland. For starters, there weren’t enough trees to keep using timber as a primary building material, and turf roofs provided excellent insulation against the cold, wet and snow. The thick roots of the Icelandic grass ensured that structures were lasting, as shown by the many centuries-old turfroofed buildings that remain in use to this day. But it is by no means certain that turf roofs are a thing of the past. Today, some cities around the world are realising the benefits of turf roofing and are beginning to experiment. In Chicago, for example, the Greenroofs Project has found these benefits include better insulation, air quality, rain-water management and structural integrity, as well as beautification of the inner city.

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Sauðárkrókur (Rte. 75) is the largest village in Skagafjörður. It is perhaps most recognized in recent years for its proximity to the place where two polar bears came ashore in the spring of 2008. The bears came from Greenland and had been drifting on a small ice floe for several days before landing on this headland. The two animals were exhausted after their long journey across the Atlantic, and although they didn’t seem to have the strength or endurance to pose any danger, no chances were taken and both bears were shot. Fishing has been the dominant industry in Sauðárkrókur, but the economy is also based on industry, agriculture and the provision of regional services. Minjahús is a museum, an information centre, and the new home to one of the polar bears mentioned above. The museum brings to life workshops of the past, letting visitors imagine a past life in Sauðárkrókur as a blacksmith, watchmaker, carpenter, or saddler. Aðalgata 16b – visitskagafjordur.is Sauðárkrókur’s Gestastofa Sútarans is the only tannery in Europe that processes fish leather. Its Tannery Visitor Center offers guided tours of the tannery, where fish-skin is processed to make high-quality leather. The tannery supplies Icelandic craftspeople with the fish-leather they use for clothing, wallets, bags and jewellery. Borgarmýri 5. Interested in military or VIking history? The 1238 Battle of Iceland offers you the chance to experience this pivotal TRAVEL THE NORTH WEST

battle using virtual reality technology. Location: Aðalgata 21. website: 1238.is Drangey and Málmey are picturesque, uninhabited, bird-rich islands characterized by striking cliffs and fairy-tale rock formations. Remarkably, sheep once grazed atop Drangey, which is surrounded by sheer cliffs up to 180 m. The sheep were hoisted up and down by ropes. One of Iceland’s bestknown saga heroes, the outlaw Grettir, spent the last three years of his life at Drangey, according to Grettis Saga. Málmey is larger and less of a fortress. A family farm prospered here until the farmstead burnt down in 1950. Boat tours to Drangey and Málmey can be arranged, for example at Reykir, a guesthouse 20 minutes from Sauðárkrókur on Rte. 748 From the only landing spot at Drangey, a precipitous path, with ladders and cable handrails, leads to the top. drangey.net In Grettis Saga, the outlaw Grettir mentioned above is said to have swum from Drangey to the western shore of Skagafjörður, where he bathed in a geothermal spring and fetched glowing embers to take back to Drangey. The Grettislaug pool (next to Reykir at the end of Rte. 748) has been constructed with natural stones at this legendary bathing spot, and is a great place to relax after a hike or after climbing Drangey. But you won’t be expected to swim back to the mainland like Grettir did!

Húnaflói Bay Heading towards Blönduós and Hvammstangi on Rte. 1, takes you past some of the finest salmon rivers in Iceland. The small town of Blönduós, which sits astride the glacial river Blanda, is a long-established trading and service town, and the administrative center of the region. The Textile Museum at Blönduós exhibits an unusual collection of Icelandic national costumes from different periods, wool-processing and tapestry-making equipment, century-old crocheted nightgowns and exquisitely embroidered undergarments from all corners of the country. Icelanders are still dedicated knitters and it is common to see people knitting in cafés, classrooms or on the bus. Part of the museum is dedicated to the work of contemporary Icelandic textile artists. Visitors are invited to try their hand at weaving wool on a loom. Perhaps the most curious item on display at the textile museum is a portrait made from lint. Árbraut 29 – 540 Blöndós - textile.is Þingeyrarkirkja is an impressive 1877 church (Rte. 721) overlooking Lake Hóp, the fifth largest lake in Iceland, east of the Vatnsnes Peninsula. The church is unusual for the late 19th century because churches at that time were typically sided with corrugated iron. Instead, Þingeyrarkirkja was constructed from hewn basalt and limestone, a very pricey undertaking. The interior is also unusual, with a deep, broad apse that encircles everything in

front of the pews – markedly different from the rectangular Icelandic norm. The church’s half-domed dark blue ceiling has about a thousand gold stars mounted on it. Several pieces inside the church are historically significant, including the altarpiece, originating in Nottingham in the 15th century. At the junction of Rte. 721 and Rte. 1, countless hillocks cover the landscape; the undulating Vatnsdalshólar hills, which are the result of a landslide. On the other side of Rte. 1 you can circle the beautiful Vatnsdalur Valley on the loop road, Rte. 722. Further south, Rte. 718 leads to the spectacular Kolugljúfur gorge and some lovely waterfalls. The canyon is named after Kola, a troll who dug it out and is said to live there still. If you’re willing to risk trespassing on the home of a troll, Kolugljúfur Gorge and its picturesque Víðidalsá River are the perfect backdrop for a picnic.

Vatnsnes Peninsula The 82 km detour on Rte. 711 around Vatnsnes peninsula gives you the best view of Húnaflói Bay’s seal population. It also features the remarkably shaped Hvítserkur crag (15m / 49ft), which stands right on the shore like a giant cross between a buffalo and a Moomintroll having a drink. Hvítserkur TRAVEL THE NORTH WEST

means White Cowl and the name is probably derived from the white color of the bird droppings that cover it. This area is very peaceful and sometimes dozens of seals can be spotted here, as well as at Illugastaðir, halfway along the western coast of Vatnsnes, at Hindisvík, near the tip of the peninsula, and Ósar, on the eastern coast. The seals tend to be quite friendly and even follow people at a distance, but please do not disturb or feed them. Note that some areas of Vatnsnes are closed during the nesting season, from late April to late June. The Icelandic Seal Center at Hvammstangi (Rte. 72) is a research center and museum with information about seals, seal colonies, the history of seal hunting and other ways in which seals are an important part of Icelandic culture, tradition and folklore. The center is also a source of information about the birds of the Vatnsnes Peninsula, of which there are unsurprisingly a great many. Strandgata 1 - selasetur.is

Staðarskáli crossroads Travelers often stop at Staðarskáli (Rte. 1 & 68) before continuing south across Holtavörðuheiði heath towards Borgarfjörður and the capital; northwest towards the Westfjords; northeast towards Akureyri; or even west (via

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Rte. 68 & 59) towards the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Because of this, although the rest-stop itself is very modern, it has a warm atmosphere where snippets of conversation always reveal locals and tourists alike setting off on adventures, or heading home.

Borðeyri Just north of Staðarskáli, en route to the Westfjords, is Borðeyri, the smallest village in Iceland. Borðeyri is a hamlet on a small sandbank on the western side of Hrútafjörður Fjord. It is the district’s service center with a local supermarket, a bank and a service station, and is simply a pretty place to walk along the beach with a view all the way down the fjord to its mouth and out to the Húnaflói Bay. This enchanting coastal area, called Strandir, extends all the way up past Hólmavík along the eastern edge of the Westfjords. It is characterised by its numerous rivers, rivulets, and small lakes. In many places the shoreline is dotted with driftwood from Siberia, which was once highly prized given the rapidly declining wood in Iceland after the settlement period. There are also many substantial eider colonies along the coastline, and inhabitants collect the down feathers from the nests. Seals are often seen playing and fishing in water close to the shore.

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FOX AT LÁTRABJARG | 65°30’9.5006“ N 24°31’33.8374“ W

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel the Westfjords Iceland’s Westfjords are dominated by dramatic fjords cutting paths into steep mountains and towering, angular cliffs. The Westfjords are a haven for a rich variety of birdlife, and were once renowned for witchcraft, sorcerers and wizards. Geologically speaking, the Westfjords contain some of the oldest parts of Iceland, with rock formations up to 14 millions years old. Excluding the highlands, the Westfjords have the most scattered population in Iceland. Over the centuries, the people of the Westfjords have battled the elements to harvest the ocean riches. There are many tiny fishing villages huddled against sheer mountains, but there are also large areas of the fjords left uninhabited. The Westfjords offer visitors the opportunity to see the seabirds on their rugged cliff-face nests, arctic foxes in their grassy meadow lairs, and seals in their deep-blue water playgrounds. At the westernmost point of the Westfjords is Látrabjarg, one of Europe’s largest bird cliffs. Please note! General road conditions in the Westfjords are not as good as in other parts of the country, so please drive safely, especially on gravel roads. Some sections of road are very high up with no guard rail.

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THE LAW PERTAINING TO BLUEBERRIES wild Icelandic blueberries are by no means unique to the Westfjords, but it’s here that they seem most accessible. Traveller’s who stop at the side of the road to check their map have been known to look down and find an unexpected snack – best picked in late summer. And if anyone questions why you’re crawling through the moss with fingers stained blue, you can say with confidence that you’re sticking to the law – Icelandic law stipulates that you may pick enough blueberries on public land for private consumption. Bon appetit!

The Strandir Coast The Strandir coast, along the Westfjords’ eastern edge, is renowned for its ‘rugged beauty’, and seems as likely place as any for such a cliché to originate! Beaches strewn with driftwood, seals lazing about offshore, birds aplenty, and a road that, if you follow it all the way north, simply ends at the edge of a vast, desolate wilderness, home to the arctic fox 101

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and the wildest wild blueberries in the country. Some of this area is only accessible during summer and early autumn; even transport by sea can be impossible, with the fjords this far north choked with pack-ice sometimes well into spring. Hornstrandir is the northernmost peninsula of the Westfjords and a beautiful nature reserve which offers a pure wilderness. It was once populated, but is now left to nature’s firm grip. Various factors were involved in the thinning of the population, but in the early 20th century, when just a handful of farming families remained – about 40 people – they held a meeting and jointly decided to move away. This arctic fox territory is now characterised in summer by idyllic lush meadows covered with flowers, and majestic cliffs teeming with seabirds. Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is a real paradise for all nature lovers. Once abandoned by a farming community, the land was freed from the destructive grazing of sheep, and plants and wildlife alike began to thrive on a scale unknown elsewhere in the country. In some areas, such as Aðalvík Bay, you can wade knee-deep in meadows of wild flowers fertilised by the guano of countless seabirds, and in the tranquillity of the fjords at sundown, you can listen to the music of nature: the sound of the water, the seabirds and, if you’re very lucky, the haunting bark of the arctic fox. This is an increasingly popular hiking area, but still offers a chance to be alone with nature. TRAVEL THE WESTFJORDS

Hiking maps of Hornstrandir are usually available at the tourist information centers in Hólmavik and Ísafjörður. Hólmavík Info Center holmavik.is/info Ísafjörður Info Center westfjords.is

Hólmavík Hólmavík (Rte. 61) is the main town along the magical Strandir coast. It’s a small village in Steingrímsfjörður Fjord and a place of spectacular nature, peace and quiet. The village has all major services, including shops, bank, health clinic, several accommodation options and a Tourist Information centre. Activities available are, among others, various walking and hiking trails a new swimming pool, a golf course and more. Hólmavík is often referred to as the home of witchcraft and sorcery in Iceland, and so it’s no surprise that this is where you find the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery & Witchcraft. The museum presents visitors with an account of the history of sorcery and witchcraft in the Strandir area from the 17th century and the world of witchhunting and magic in Iceland more generally. Höfðagata 8 – galdrasyning.is The high pass of Steingrímsfjarðarheiði Heath (Rte. 61) takes you from Strandir into the spectacular region of Ísafjarðardjúp.

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Ísafjörður Town Ísafjörður Fjord is the first fjord you come to after crossing the Steingrímsfjarðarheiði Heath, but note that this is not where the town of Ísafjörður is! You will see a lot of beautiful coastline and weave your way through several more fjords before reaching Ísafjörður town. Ísafjarðardjúp (the ‘Ice-Fjord-Deep’) is the largest fjord in the Westfjords. Eight long and narrow inlets cut its southern coast, while its north-eastern coast has only one prominent inlet. On its northern coast, by its mouth, are the magical Jökulfirðir or ‘glacial fjords’, named because of the Drangjökull Glacier overlooking them. The beautiful town of Ísafjörður, the regional capital of the Westfjords and 104

its major center of culture, commerce and services, is situated where the mouth of Skutulsfjörður Fjord meets Ísafjarðardjúp. Ísafjörður boasts a lovely old town center with some of the finest and most beautifully restored timber buildings in the country. Some of these historic buildings are now part of Neðstikaupstaður, the Westfjords Heritage Museum. Ísafjörður is one of the oldest settlements in Iceland and the museum plays a big part in that story-telling. Neðstikaupstaður – nedsti.is Fishing has always been the main industry in Ísafjörður, which has one of the largest fisheries in Iceland. The town owes its origins to the fishing industry and so it is only natural that the museum focuses mainly on maritime history. Four 18th century houses have TRAVEL THE WESTFJORDS

been renovated in Ísafjörður and the museum is located in one of those houses. In the museum and the area around it you can find everything concerning fish, fishing, the history of the industry, including old production equipment – everything from a simple fish hook to a whole ship. There’s also a substantial accordion collection on display. HISTORY MADE TASTY the Tjöruhúsið seafood restaurant (tel: 4564419) housed in the 1781 fish warehouse next to the Westfjords Heritage Museum (above) is both a culinary and a cultural experience. In good weather, visitors to the museum can see salt cod spread on the ground to dry – a ‘sun-drying’ method that was especially popular around the turn of the 20th century during the boom time for Ísafjörður’s salt cod industry. What better way to complete the experience than by tasting some expertly prepared salt cod at the museum restaurant?! The restaurant overcomes potential language barriers by providing an illustrated menu – simply point to the fish species of choice and a very generous portion of it will soon materialise in front of you, sizzling in a pan alongside delectable accompaniments... In a word: Yum!

Ísafjörður has all the services needed for travelers and the town’s hotels, guesthouses, hostels and camping grounds often serve as a home base for tourists exploring the multiform and diverse Westfjords. Ísafjörður has a vibrant cultural life and the town boasts several restaurants and café TRAVEL THE WESTFJORDS

besides Tjöruhúsið (see box). There are many attractions and activities in and around Ísafjörður. The spectacular landscape is perfect for short and/ or longer hiking trips. The landscape is dominated by narrow fjords and steep mountains. Many travelers choose to spend days simply driving through the fjords and beholding the mountains, many of which descend directly and dramatically into the sea. Boattrips around the fjords, which offer a unique view of the surroundings and often include visits to the nearby islands, are also a popular activity. Ísafjörður Info Center – westfjords.is Vigur is an island in Ísafjarðardjúp, just east of Ísafjörður. It’s a place where time seems to stand still. Vigur has earned a great reputation and has become a must-see for visitors to the area, especially during the nesting season. The island is home to thousands of birds – eider ducks, arctic terns, puffins and more. A leisurely walk around the island gives you an opportunity to see an abundance of birds in their natural environment. If you are interested in a boat tour to Vigur Island, you can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is Ísafjörður is a popular skiing resort in wintertime; while in summer tourists visit the town for its own charm and beautiful surroundings, as well as for the popular trips to Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, the fjords of Jökulfirðir and the island of Vigur.

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Bolungarvík Bolungarvík (Rte. 61) is the northernmost village in the Westfjords, on the southern lip of Ísafjarðardjúp’s mouth. The village is a traditional fishing port, and was one of the earliest fishing ports in Iceland’s history, dating back to the settlement period. Bolungarvík is surrounded by large coastal mountains, making the view from the village truly spectacular. The village is a regular stop for bird-watchers, as the mountain cliffs and the village isolation create the perfect conditions for observing the rich bird life. The town also boasts several restaurants, café, excellent outdoor thermal pools, and an 18-hole golf course. There are several museums at Bolungarvík, including the Natural 106

History Museum which, when it opened in 1998, was the first museum of its kind in the Westfjords. The museum gives a comprehensive overview of the bird and mammal life in the Westfjords area. Its taxidermic collection includes birds, a seal, fox, mink and a magnificent polar bear. There’s also a significant stone and mineral collection, and a display about the area’s geology in relation to the building of the Bolungarvíkur tunnel, which opened in 2010. Note: The museum is closed for renovations. It will reopen after summer 2021. Natural History Museum – Vitastígur 3 - nabo.is The harbor in Bolungarvík is often bustling with life; boats arriving and people busy landing fish, while seagulls and other birds are flying around. TRAVEL THE WESTFJORDS

The tiny outdoor maritime museum at Ósvör, by the shore off Rte. 61 at the eastern edge of Bolungarvík, tells the story of the first fishermen in Iceland. There’s a restored fishermen’s hut and fish-drying shed at Ósvör, and it’s one of the best places to look out to sea and imagine yourself in the shoes of an Icelandic fisherman from centuries past – you may be struck by a sense of the simplicity of life back then, coupled with the uncertainty and danger of living at the mercy of Poseidon and the elements.

Flateyri Flateyri, Rte. 64, has been a trading post in the Westfjords since 1792, although its importance has decreased over the years. The village was first and foremost a base for whaling and shark fishing. The vast majority of the population still work in the fishing industry. Flateyri offers travelers the opportunity to experience the quiet fishing village life and environment, and learn the history of fishing activities in the town’s museums. The new Stockfish Museum is housed in a 19th century warehouse that was relocated to the waterfront in 2011. Flateyri is the perfect base for hiking trips to the mountains and fjords surrounding the village. TRAVEL THE WESTFJORDS

Þingeyri Þingeyri village, Rte. 60, is an old trading post and the name ‘Þing’ indicates it was once an important assembly site too. Just east of Þingeyri is Dýrafjarðarbotn; a beautiful area with a majestic mountain range and rich flora. Fisheries are the main source of revenue for Þingeyri, but there is also some other commerce and farming. The picturesque area around Þingeyri is characterised by high mountains and many people consider Dýrafjörður the most beautiful fjord in the whole of the Westfjords – it is narrow and long, accentuating the majesty of the surrounding mountains. The highland area between the fjords of Dýrafjörður and Arnarfjörður, to the south, is often referred to as the Alps of the Westfjords. Kaldbakur, the highest mountain in the Westfjords, is close to Þingeyri and a hike to the top is relatively easy – even for inexperienced hikers. Tourist information is available at Simbahöllin, by the harbor. Fjarðargötu 5.

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Hrafnseyri

Dynjandi Waterfall

Arnarfjörður is yet another fjord abounding with natural wonders that are a lot of fun to explore. Hrafnseyri, Rte. 60, is a church farm in Arnarfjörður and the birthplace of independence movement leader Jón Sigurðsson, with a museum dedicated to and celebrating this great statesman.

The most famous of the Westfjords’ natural wonders is probably the waterfall Dynjandi; a 100m / 328ft cascade of unusual beauty. Dynjandi waterfall is just inland from Arnarfjörður fjord off the main road, Rte. 60. It is the biggest waterfall of the Westfjords and one of the most impressive ones in whole of Iceland. True to its name, which means ‘thunderous’, Dynjandi combines thunderous power with natural elegance.

Jón Sigurðsson is a national hero in Iceland, often referred to as ‘president’. He was born at Hrafnseyri and the anniversary of his birth – June 17th in 1811 – is Iceland’s National Day and the day the Republic of Iceland was founded in 1944. The museum at his birthplace has become a popular attraction for visitors. The Museum replicates Sigurðsson’s childhood home, and the old Hrafnseyri church is still standing there. hrafnseyri.is

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Dynjandi actually consists of seven waterfalls; each with its own name. The waterfalls become progressively broad and are often compared to a tiered wedding cake. Note that you can walk behind the third waterfall up, called Göngufoss.

Selárdalur Selárdalur Valley, Rte. 619, is the best known of the Ketildalir valleys on the southern shore of Arnarfjörður Fjord, because of the church and former parsonage there, which are also referred to as Selárdalur. The farmer who lived here until his death in 1969, Samúel Jónsson, was also a selftaught artist who created a number of sculptures and replicas of buildings, especially during the last decade of his life. Among other things is a copy of the Alhambra’s Court of the Lions. Selárdalur is a popular destination for people wishing to see what remains of these works. SELÁRDALUR MOVIE TRIVIA one of Iceland’s biggest music success stories is the band Sigur Rós. Whether you’re a fan, or have never heard of them, we recommend their film Heima, which showcases Iceland as much as it does their music. If you see the film, keep an eye out for Selárdalur and a glimpse of some of Samúel Jónsson’s works.

Bíldudalur & Patreksfjörður The small fishing villages of Bíldudalur, Tálknafjörður and the larger village of Patreksfjörður are the main settlements TRAVEL THE WESTFJORDS

on the westernmost region of the Westfjords – indeed the westernmost region of Europe! Bíldudalur (Rte. 63) is a pretty village on the shores of Arnarfjörður with a dark and scary secret: The Sea Monster Museum where the history of sea monster sightings in Icelandic history, folk culture and literature are revealed. A disproportionate number of sea monsters have been spotted in and around Arnarfjörður, so keep an eye on the surface of the fjord as you leave town—are you sure that was just a seal dipping out of view? And if you’ve just driven all the way from Dynjandi without afternoon tea, the museum’s café is a lovely place to stop for a monster snack. skrimsli.is Patreksfjörður was named after a bishop from the British Isles who was the foster father of the area’s first settler, Örlygur Hrappsson. Patreksfjörður is the name of both the fjord and the village here (Rte. 62). Trade began in Patreksfjörður in 1570, making it one of the oldest trading posts in the Westfjords, and is now the largest town in the southern part of Westfjords, and serving as the trade and service hub for the farms and villages of west Barðarstrandasýsla district. As with many other villages in the Westfjords, Patreksfjörður offers many exciting hiking options. It is a good place for anyone interested in experiencing the peace and silence of a typical fishing village, as well as the natural beauty that defines the area.

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Across the fjord from Patreksfjörður is a small museum, the Egill Ólafsson Museum at Hnjótur in Örlygshöfn, which includes some noteworthy pieces of Iceland’s aviation history, among other objects of historical interest. where it is well worth taking a break and having some refreshments. hnjoturtravel.is

would catch birds and gather eggs, risking their lives as they dangled perilously over the cliff top. Eggs are still collected from the cliff today, partly to keep alive this tradition, and partly for research purposes. Enjoy this unforgettable bird cliff on the edge of the world, with white sand beaches below and Snæfellsjökull glacier in the distance. In nearby Breiðavík Bay, seals can often be spotted in the crashing waves. Please be careful at Látrabjarg, there are no safety fences, the soil can be slippery near the edges, and it can be difficult to see where the edges project precariously from the cliff top.

Látrabjarg The cliffs of Látrabjarg, at the end of Rte. 612, mark the westernmost point of Iceland – and Europe. Látrabjarg is 14km / 9 miles long and up to 444m / 276ft high, teeming with different species of nesting seabirds. The Black Guillemot and Razorbill bird colonies at Látrabjarg are among the world’s biggest. The cliffs are occupied by millions of Puffins, Gannets, Guillemots and Razorbills. Látrabjarg was once a major local source of food. For centuries, generation after generation of farmers

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HOW A CLIFFHANGER RESCUE BECAME A CLIFFHANGER OF A FILM One of the bravest rescue operations in Iceland’s history was undertaken beneath Látrabjarg when the British trawler the Dhoon ran aground there in bad weather in December 1947. Local farmers saved the lives of 14 crew members by scaling down the 200 m Bæjarbjarg cliff under treacherous, icy conditions. One member of the impromptu rescue team, Þórður Jónsson, later suggested a documentary be made about the dramatic rescue. While filmmaker Óskar Gíslason was filming at Látrabjarg, another British trawler – the Sargon – ran aground at nearby Patreksfjörður. People involved in the filming, including Jónsson, rushed to the scene, and the cameramen filmed this second rescue, later editing the footage into the documentary about the Dhoon (Rescue at Látrabjarg, released 1949).

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Rauðisandur Rauðisandur (‘Red Sands’) is an extensive, sandy coastal area southeast of Látrabjarg (off Rte. 614). It is ideal for strolling along its amazing white, golden and red sands. The colors vary a lot depending on the season, the time of day, and the place from which the shore is viewed. Rauðisandur also offers a spectacular view of Snæfellsjökull glacier, which is almost due south.

RAUÐISANDUR | 65°28’39.5548“ N 24°0’20.5734“ W

The Baldur Ferry to Snæfellsnes Brjánslækur (Rte. 62) is where the ferry Baldur departs for Snæfellsnes. It takes less than three hours to cross the bay of Breiðafjörður, stopping at Flatey Island before arriving at the village Stykkishólmur. Cars must be booked in advance at Sæferðir – saeferdir.is

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likely you’ll approach it after exploring the Westfjords (or Snæfellsnes). There are many farms here, including the manor farm Skarð, which has been kept in the same family for almost 1,000 years. Skarð has its own church, and the harbor nearby was once a small trading post.

Reykhólar Reykhólar (Rte. 606, off Rte. 607) is a place of natural beauty and historical interest. There is a lot of geothermal heat in the surrounding area, which is very fertile. The farm here – one of the biggest and richest in Iceland’s history – was perhaps so prosperous because of the diversity of natural wealth in the area: from the abundance of seals, fish and mussels, to the collection of seaweed and eider down. The church at nearby Staður (Rte. 607) is maintained by the National Museum of Iceland. It was built in 1864 and is unusual in that it was one of the first wooden churches to be painted, rather than tarred, and is quite well preserved.

Skarðsströnd & Fellsströnd South of Reykhólar, on the western side of Iceland’s ‘neck’, is a stretch of coast (Rte. 590) that receives relatively little traffic, despite its picturesque setting and magnificent views across Breiðafjörður to the southern shores of the Westfjords and the northern shores of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, including the glacier on a clear day. This area is not considered part of the Westfjords, but we include it here because it’s most

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Klofningsfjall – ‘cloven mountain’ – is only 496m / 1627ft high but rewards climbers with great views and an observation dial identifying distant landmarks. Right below the mountain is the Dagverðarnes Church, sitting precariously close to the edge of the rocks. Hvammur is a church and important historical site (off Rte. 590 a few kilometres west of the junction with Rte. 60) where Auður Ketilsdóttir, who married King Ólafur of Dublin, settled after the death of their only son at battle in Scotland. Hvammur was also the birthplace of Snorri Sturluson, who became medieval Iceland’s most significant scholar and saga writer. If you avoid the coast here and take the main road (Rte. 60) across instead, note that the big stone in the Svínadalur Valley is another significant saga landmark – it’s the place where saga hero Kjartan Ólafsson of Laxdæla Saga is said to have been killed by his foster brother, Bolli Þorleiksson.

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Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel Snæfellsnes Snæfellsnes is the peninsula pointing west like an arm outstretched towards Greenland. The pearl of the peninsula is the Snæfellsjökull glacier with its beautiful ice cap visible from as far south as Reykjanes, and as far north as the Westfjords. Every kind of volcano is to be found in the West of Iceland, but this perfectly formed crater with its glacial cap is the most recognised in the region. The peninsula’s rugged and beautiful coast is home to thousands of birds. There are golden beaches and black beaches, and lava fields swathed in shimmering green moss. Breiðafjörður alone accounts for a staggering 65% of Iceland’s rocky shoreline and 40% of its mudflats, inviting birds and birdwatchers alike. Frequently spotted are a wide variety of seabirds, waders, geese and white-tailed eagles. For some expert guidance, Seatours offers nature cruises of Breiðafjörður. As well as birds, you’re likely to see seals, and may be offered a taste of shellfish as it’s pulled straight from the water. Seatours runs fishing tours and can hook you up with fishing equipment. Besides fishing, the combination of Breiðafjörður’s many islands and its shallow waters also make it a sea kayaking paradise.

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Flatey If you’re catching the Baldur ferry from Brjánslækur, Flatey Island will be your first stop en route to Snæfellsnes (you can choose to stay on the ferry and keep going if you don’t want to explore the island). Breiðafjörður Bay has almost 3,000 islands, islets and reefs, but only Flatey is populated, and only a handful of residents stay the whole year round. It was the commercial hub and fishing center of Breiðafjörður for most of Iceland’s history up to the 20th century. Old houses, shops and warehouse buildings on Flatey reflect the prosperity of the period around 1900, and the brightly colored houses today still carry this sense of optimism. In the 16th century, the Hanseatic League in Germany ran a trading post here. The first Icelandic trader received a temporary licence in 1589 and, reflecting the island’s prosperity, Flatey received a charter as a town in 1777, nine years before Reykjavík.

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Flateyjarbok (the Book of Flatey), one of the most important and impressive of Iceland’s ancient saga manuscripts, was preserved on Flatey in the Middle Ages. A photocopy reproduction is on display at the island’s library behind the church. The library is the oldest in Iceland, built in 1864 in the heyday of Flatey’s prosperity, and is among the smallest, sweetest libraries you’ll ever see.

by a narrow causeway. The town has an easily accessible and naturally sheltered harbor, and in 1550 a trading post was founded there. Nowadays, the people of Stykkishólmur make their living from fishing – especially for shellfish – and tourism. The tourist office right on the harbor can give you directions to local attractions and has maps of the town.

But the main attractions on Flatey are the birds and the scenery. Despite its name (Flatey means ‘flat island’) Flatey was formed when the caldera of a subglacial volcano collapsed, so there are some interesting basalt columns that are popular nesting places for birds, and popular photo subjects for visitors. The Baldur ferry crossing from Brjánslækur to Flatey takes about an hour, and another 90 minutes to Stykkishólmur. Note that you need to book in advance for cars. seatours.is

Stykkishólmur Stykkishólmur is the largest town, the commercial center and the transit hub of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. The village gets its name from the small island called Stykkið (meaning ‘the piece’) that is connected to the port 114

PICNIC SPOT TIP If you’re arriving by ferry, you’ll see the harbor’s beautiful rock formations and a hill right at the port with a bright red and yellow old lighthouse on top. This is in fact an islet in its own right called Súgandisey. It’s an easy walk to the top and a great place to get a view of some of the town’s colorful houses, as well as out to sea and across Breiðafjörður to the Westfjords. Looking towards town, the building up on the hill with big bay windows is Vatnasafn, the Library of Water (see below).

Iceland’s oldest meteorological station is in Stykkishólmur. It was first manned in 1845 by Árni Thorlacius, who in 1832 had built The Norwegian House (Norska Húsið), an elegant timber building that has been lovingly renovated and houses the local folk museum. The timber was imported from Norway, TRAVEL SNÆFELLSNES

hence the name, and the building was a palace in its time. Exhibits recount town history, assemble artefacts, and re-create the ambiance of the 19th century. The Norwegian House’s gift shop reflects this ambience and emphasises truly Icelandic ware. Hafnargata 5 – norskahusid.is In addition to The Norwegian House, many of Stykkishólmur’s buildings are well preserved and painted in bright colors, adding to the charm of the place. The Narfeyrarstofa café/ restaurant, across the green from The Norwegian House, is in one of Stykkishólmur’s older houses and is popular for both its atmosphere and its grilled local scallops. Aðalgata 3 – narfeyrarstofa.is Vatnasafn – Library of Water houses an unusual, fascinating collection of water, extracted as ice from 24 glaciers around Iceland. The water is stored transparent and still, in a constellation of floor-to-ceiling glass columns which reflect and refract the light outside, illuminating the interior as it becomes dark. Some are crystal clear, others opaquely murky. The library, or the museum as some might want to call it, is unlike anything else in Iceland. It was created as a multi–faceted, long-term installation and community center by American artist Roni Horn, in collaboration with Artangel, and was opened in 2007. It’s located in the building where the Stykkishólmur library once was. Sitting atop a hill, the building overlooks Breiðafjörður Fjord (in fact more like a bay) on one side and the harbor on TRAVEL SNÆFELLSNES

the other, through beautiful panelled windows. Inscribed on the floor of the library are adjectives associated with weather in both English and Icelandic. With the world’s glaciers shrinking rapidly, the Library of Water is also a place for reflecting – it may even become an important environmental archive sometime in the future. The museum has several rooms and has been used for intimate music concerts, film screenings, yoga classes and town meetings. There is always a chess board ready in case any chess players drop in – chess is very popular in Iceland. Hafnargata 3. libraryofwater.is Eldfjallasafn – Volcano Museum A unique exhibition of international art and objects related to volcanic eruptions and their impact. Aðalgata 6 – eldfjallasafn.is Just south of Stykkishólmur on Rte. 58 is a turnoff to Helgafell, ‘Holy Mountain’, which is a columnar basalt hill, thought by early settlers to be sacred. The site also features prominently in several Icelandic sagas. It’s a steep climb to the top, but only takes 15 minutes or so and rewards you with excellent views and, according to legend, three wishes. The church at the base of the hill is more than a century old. On the northern coast of the peninsula is the farm and shark museum of Bjarnarhöfn (Rte. 577). Bjarnarhöfn produces and sells Iceland’s most potent delicacy: cured, putrefied shark, called hákarl. At the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum you can learn some of the history of the 115

area, see the old shark-fishing boats, and get a taste of the “real Iceland” by trying hákarl for yourself – or some dried fish if you’d rather play it safe! Bjarnarhöfn is on the edge of the Berserkjahraun lava field. Bjarnarhöfn. Berserkjahraun, the Beserkers’ Lava Field. This surreal lava field halfway between Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur was created just a few thousand years ago, making it young enough to still possess all kinds of strange shapes, made all the more fascinating by the color and textural contrasts in the rock and the thick mosses. The Berserkjahraun lava field was named after an infamous incident dating back to the late 10th century and recounted in Eyrbyggja Saga. It is said that a farmer killed two berserker slaves there, after promising one of them his daughter’s hand in marriage in exchange for the slaves clearing

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a path through the lava field from his farm Hraun to Bjarnarhöfn. Once the berserkers finished this immense task, the farmer locked them inside a scalding hot sauna, spearing them as they tried to escape. A path through the lava field is still evident, and the skeletons of two men were discovered there in the 19th century—both of average height but powerfully built. To reach this path, instead of turning off Rte. 577 to reach Bjarnarhöfn farm, continue until you reach the sign for Berserkjagata, meaning Berserkers’ Way. There is a stone cairn along the trail marking the hollow where the skeletons were found. Note that even with walking trails, it is sometimes not easy to negotiate the lava.

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Grundarfjörður

Ólafsvik, Hellissandur & Rif

The village of Grundarfjörður (Rte. 54) lies in a beautiful fjord, surrounded by spectacular mountains that give the area a slightly alpine look. The oblong Mt. Kirkjufell is the town’s landmark. It looks like a volcano but is actually a piece that got separated from the main mountain strip.

The fishing village of Ólafsvik is close to the glacier Snæfellsjökull. The fishing grounds near Ólafsvík are very rich, and the village has been the most productive fishing town in the Snæfellsnes peninsula since the 1950s. In the 17th century, Ólafsvík became the first town in Iceland to receive a license from the Danish king to engage in commerce. Its location at the southern entrance of Breiðarfjörður made it ideal for trading. Ólafsvík is home to the Snæfellsbær Regional Museum on the upper floor of an 1841 warehouse (Pakkhúsið) and exhibits household items and farm implements. There’s also the maritime museum Sjávarsafnið Ólafsvík, by the harbor. Ólafsbraut 12.

In 1786, Grundarfjörður received the right to commerce and soon after that, French merchants came to Iceland and lived in the village. The town became rich through its fishing industry, and a hospital and church were constructed. The town’s wealth is evident in the luxurious style of the original houses. Grundarfjörður is home to the Eyrbyggja Heritage Center where exhibits focus on the history of fishing and other aspects of rural life on the peninsula in days gone by.

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Hellissandur is a busy fishing village at the edge of the sea on an elevated coastal plateau near the outermost tip of the peninsula, adjacent to another

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seaside fishing village, Rif, that faces the open sea. In medieval times, Rif was an important trading port. The Snæfellsjökull National Park Visitors’ Center is in Hellissandur Klettsbúð 7. snaefellsnes.is/english Ólafsvík, Rif, Hellissandur, Hellnar and Arnarstapi have now amalgamated to form Snæfellsbær.

Snæfellsjökull Mountain, Glacier & National Park Snæfellsjökull is a stratovolcano on the westernmost part of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, with a glacier covering its summit, 1,446m / 4,744ft high. The volcano last erupted in the year AD 250. The name of the mountain is actually Snæfell, but is generally referred to as Snæfellsjökull to distinguish it from two other mountains in Iceland of the same name. Snæfellsjökull can be seen from Reykjavík and the coast of Reykjanes 120km / 75 miles away, over the bay of Faxaflói, and has been compared to Mt. Fuji, visible 100km / 62 miles from Tokyo. On June 28, 2001, the Snæfellsjökull National Park was founded. The park covers over 170km2 / 56sq miles and includes Snæfellsjökull and the entire western tip of the peninsula. Snæfellsjökull National Park is the first National Park in Iceland to extend into the sea. The glacier is easily accessible (Rte. 570) in fine weather, but note that when the mountain is misty, driving can be

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quite slow and it can be difficult to see where to stop to step onto the glacier itself for that all important “Look, I’m on a glacier!” snapshot. If in doubt, or if you’d like to take a Snjófell Snow Scooter tour to the glacier, this can be arranged from Arnarstapi. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website icelandtravel.is In any case, be careful if you intend hiking on the glacier – conditions are becoming less stable as the glacier melts, and vary from year to year. Even from a distance, Snæfellsjökull is considered to be one of the most beautiful glaciers in Iceland, and many believe it to possess supernatural powers. Snæfellsjökull first became world famous after the publication in 1864 of Jules Verne’s Journey to the Center of the Earth. Many spiritually minded people report sensing the glacier’s therapeutic powers and energy. In an Icelandic novel – Under the Glacier – by Nobel Prize winning author Halldór Laxness, the glacier seems to induce the local community’s religious transformation. Sönghellir, ‘the Singing Cave’ (Rte. 570), is famous for its echoes and for its antique graffiti. Many people have written their names on the walls of the cave, some of them very well known within Iceland. Among them are Eggert Ólafsson and Bjarni Pálsson who were travelling around Iceland in the late 18th century – quite an enterprise at the time – fighting for Enlightenment and against superstition. You may TRAVEL SNÆFELLSNES

also recognise some runes and signs of sorcery there. Note that the best echoes are achieved if you speak or sing outside the entrance to the cave, rather than inside it.

largest fishing villages beneath the Snæfellsjökull ice cap. At Hellnar there is a very small café Fjöruhúsið right by the seashore, worth visiting as much for its fresh soups and cakes as for its location overlooking some stunning rock formations. The café is open during the summer months.” Valasnös, a freestanding rock that extends east of the bay, contains one of Iceland’s most peculiar caves, Baðstofa. This cave is known for the unusual way light is reflected off its colorful interior, and for the cacophony of bird calls often

At the tip of Snæfellsnes peninsula, near Dritvík (Rte. 574), is a sign to Djúpalónssandur, an inlet used in centuries past as a landing for small fishing boats. Fishermen at the time were allocated wages according to their strength; measured on weightstones, still visible down by the landing. Here, not even the roar of the ocean can cover the sound of the seagulls constantly on the move!

Hellnar and Arnarstapi The romantic little fishing villages of Hellnar and Arnarstapi (Rte. 574) are both known for their rock formations in the shapes of arches, caves and stacks, as well as their cliffs, swarming with huge colonies of birds. Hellnar is home to the Snæfellsjökull National Park’s Visitor Centre, where exhibits explain this part of the country’s trade history, and the geology, geography and animal life of the park. For centuries, Hellnar was one of the TRAVEL SNÆFELLSNES

resounding there. There is also a cold water spring, Maríulind, at the edge of the lava here. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary because it is said there was once an apparition of her at the spring. The cliffs between Arnarstapi and Hellnar were made a Natural

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Reserve in 1979. The 2.5km / 1.5 mile Arnarstapi-Hellnar trail linking the two settlements falls within this protected nature reserve and is the peninsula’s most popular coastal hiking route. One of the particularly striking forms of lava erosion visible from the trail is Gatklettur, an arch extending into the sea – magnificent in all seasons. It’s worth glancing out to sea every now and then along this whole stretch of coast in case you spot seals or whales too. If you walk the trail, be careful to walk only on the path, to avoid falling into the ravines. Arnarstapi was once an important trading post and had a much bigger population than it has now – less than a dozen people now live here permanently. The population of elves here is said to be much healthier – the Stapafell mountain, just outside Arnarstapi, is a known elf residence, so don’t be surprised if you spot the little doorways painted onto rocks. But elves are notoriously elusive, so a walk along the coastline is highly recommended to see the relatively more obliging birds, especially Kittiwakes, as well as the superb lava formations. There is quite a large arctic tern colony in the village itself, so watch out for dive-bombers if you’re walking around! Local fishermen in Arnarstapi can often be seen fishing and landing the day’s catch.

Búðir Picturesque Búðir (off Rte. 574 just before the junction with Rte. 54) is situated by the shore, home to an 1848 church and a stylish hotel, and 120

surrounded by the Búðahraun lava field. This is a unique place to walk in the sandy lava fields, see the charming black church, and stroll on one of the few golden beaches of Iceland. Your camera can easily be kept busy here! A 2km / 1.2 miles trail lies between Búðir and Frambúðir, where there are ruins of fishermen’s huts and trading booths. From Frambúðir there’s also a trail that heads inland across a lava field to the Búðaklettur volcanic crater. The lava was deposited here as many as 8,000 years ago, and is now home to a rich variety of mosses, ferns and wildflowers. It’s an easy walk, but if you come this far and then return to Búðir, allow 3 hours for the round trip.

Iceland is a pool-crazy nation and no doubt has the most public pools per capita in the world, which is why we’re not listing them all in this booklet. But the pool at Lýsuhóll (Rte. 54, east of Búðir) is unique even for Iceland. At Lýsuhóll, the water is piped straight TRAVEL SNÆFELLSNES

BÚÐIR CHURCH | 64°49’18.9546“ N 23°22’58.6691“ W

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from its mineral-rich hot spring source without removing the natural algae and silica. The result is... slimy, but bathing here sure feels natural and is likely to leave your skin feeling revivified. lysuholl.is At the junction of Rte. 54 and 56 is a small shop and caféteria – a good place for a break. Gerðuberg is an interesting escarpment of high, hexagonal basalt columns. It is one of the longest rock faces in the country and is striking in its uniformity (a 1 km detour from Rte. 54, follow the YtriRauðamelur sign). Not far from here, but on Rte. 567 off the other side of Rte. 54 is Eldborg, a perfectly symmetrical oblong crater about 200 metres long. This was the source of the surrounding lava fields some 5,000 to 8,000 years ago, and there is a marked hiking path all the way to the top of the crater from the Snorrastaðir farm. The walk can be done relatively easily within an hour or so. 122

TIPS FOR SPOTTING THE NORTHERN LIGHTS was that a ghost? A swirling veil of light lingers high above in the night sky. Suddenly it moves, shape-shifting into daggers of green and red light, twinkling and teasing and then disappearing again. Most people visiting Iceland have already heard of the northern lights, or aurora borealis, but if you’re not an experienced gazer, keep in mind that you need a cool, clear night sky in order to spot them. This means the winter months are best, but northern lights have been known to grace the skies of Iceland as late as May and as early as August. They’re harder to spot from populated areas because of light pollution, so the Snæfellsnes peninsula makes an ideal location to set your camera to ‘manual’ (so you can leave the shutter open for 30 seconds), point it skywards and then cross your fingers!

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Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel West Iceland The West of Iceland is characterized by fjords, valleys, volcanoes and craters. In the West, the water flows from the earth in every form, from rivers of sparkling cool mineral water to Europe’s most voluminous hot spring, Deildartunguhver. Snæfellsnes peninsula juts out to the west, and the Westfjords stretch towards the far north-west. But because there is so much to see and do in each of these areas, as well as in central and inland West Iceland, we decided to give them their own chapters, so see the previous two chapters if you’re looking for the Westfjords or anything west of Heydalur at Snæfellsnes (Rte. 55). In olden times, West Iceland was a flourishing agricultural region with plentiful food resources. Its location made it a popular place for people from the north and south to meet, trade – and fight! Many Saga characters lived in or passed through West Iceland, as reflected by the region’s plentiful Saga-related museums, sites and tours.

Deildartunguhver hot spring Deildartunguhver is Europe’s most powerful hot spring, located just north of the junction between Rte. 50 and 518. Its flow rate is one of the highest in the world, at 180 litres / 48 gallons of 98°C (208°F) hot water per second. The water used for central heating in the nearby towns of Borgarnes TRAVEL WEST ICELAND

and Akranes is mostly taken from Deildartunguhver. The hot water pipeline to Akranes is 64km / 40 miles long, the longest in Iceland, and the water has cooled to around 80°C / 176°F by the time it reaches Akranes. At the car park at Deildartunguhver you can purchase fresh tomatoes, grown in the local greenhouses and packed especially for passing travelers. Experience nature from its core by bathing in the geothermal baths at Krauma. The hot water originates in Europe’s most powerful hot spring Deildartunguhver, at a temperature of 100°C (212°F). To achieve the perfect bathing temperature the hot water is mixed with cold water from Rauðsgil. Krauma offers five relaxing natural geothermal baths, a cold tub to get your blood circulation going, two calming saunas and a relaxation room where you can rest by the fireplace while listening to soothing music.

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Krauma Restaurant serves Icelandic cuisine from the freshest local farm produced ingredients. Relax in the comfortable environment of the restaurant while enjoying the spectacular view of Europe’s most powerful hot spring. The bar and lounge offers a wide selection of drinks and snacks and is well suited to relax and unwind at the end of the day. You can book your entrance to Krauma in your app or on the Iceland Travel website icelandtravel.is

Reykholt Reykholt (Rte. 518) is a school center and one of Iceland’s most noteworthy historical sites. Snorri Sturluson (1178– 1241), the most renowned Icelandic saga writer, scholar and chieftain, lived in Reykholt, where he wrote famous works such as Heimskringla, Snorra Edda and, most likely, Egils Saga. The settlement of Reykholt lies within Reykholtsdalur, a well-forested and geothermally active valley. The valley is the site of a major reforestation drive – in the year 2000, an impressive 281,000 trees were planted at Reykholt, one for every member of the population

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at the time. Reykholt is home to the Snorrastofa culture and medieval centre, founded in memory of Snorri Sturluson. Snorrastofa holds exhibitions, including the permanent ‘Snorri Sturluson and His Time’ exhibition focusing on this important figure’s life and work. The center also manages various research projects, serves as a tourist information office and sells souvenirs – many with a historical bent. snorrastofa.is There’s a well-restored 1887 church at Reykholt, but its duties are now performed by the much more modern church nearby. If you’re visiting in July, note that the annual Reykholt Music Festival (classical) is held at the Reykholt church in late July. reykholtshatid.is Snorri Sturluson is said to have spent a lot of time in his pool, thinking and holding political meetings there. Although the exact location of the pool has never been confirmed, a 1959 reconstruction of Snorralaug – ‘Snorri’s pool’ – is now the most popular site at Reykholt. Behind the pool is a door leading to an underground passageway, perhaps to the very basement where Snorri was ultimately murdered.

Hraunfossar & Barnafoss waterfalls Less than 20 km from Reykholt, the picturesque Hraunfossar waterfalls (Rte. 518) pour in a succession of cascades from under a lava field, into the Hvítá River. The source of the Hraunfossar

waterfalls are clear, cold springs that well up through the lava and run in falls and rapids into the Hvítá River – a beautiful and unusual natural phenomena.

to Surtshellir but can only be accessed on guided tours (of 1 to 4 hours) led by Fljótstunga Farm on Rte. 518. Tours of Víðgelmir are not suitable for young children. Viking-Age artefacts were found inside Víðgelmir in 1993, including jewellery that is now on display at the National Museum in Reykjavík. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website icelandtravel.is

Barnafoss waterfall just upstream from Hraunfossar has been a protected site since 1987. Over time, the river has burrowed down through the lava and now runs in a deep, narrow ravine. There used to be a stone arch spanning the river.  Barnafoss means ‘children’s waterfall’ and the name is derived from the story of two children who disappeared one Christmas, many years ago, from the nearby farm at Hraunsás. There was a rock arch over the waterfall and the children are believed to have fallen off it into the river. Their grieving mother destroyed the arch and put a curse on the falls that nobody would ever be able to cross the river on such a rock arch and live, so beware!

Víðgelmir & Surtshellir caves At 148,000 m / 1,593,058sq ft, Víðgelmir is the biggest lava cave in Iceland and one of the biggest in the world. There are weird and wonderful rock, ice, and mineral formations. The cave is close

Surtshellir lava cave isn’t far from Víðgelmir and can be accessed independently (Rte. F578, off Rte. 518). The cave’s main tube extends nearly 2km / 1.2 miles, but its narrow side passages can be more fun to explore. Proceed with extreme caution as the cave floor can be slippery, and the darkness can be disorienting. You will need appropriate shoes, warm clothes and a strong flashlight, and preferably a helmet and gloves too. The parking area is a five-minute walk from the cave entrance. A taste of the highlands. Most travelers treat Rte. 518 as a loop and then head back towards the coast, but if your exploration of the Víðgelmir and Surtshellir caves (above) leaves you in an adventurous mood, note that Rte. 550 takes you through Kaldidalur – ‘the cold valley’ – between Ok glacier to the west, and Langjökull, Geitlandsjökull and Þórisjökull glaciers to the east. This option is especially recommended if you’re not planning to experience Iceland’s interior highlands elsewhere. The road is fine for regular cars in summer, but when it’s windy, drivers are sometimes slowed down 125

by sandstorms. Turn off at Rte. 551 to get up close and personal with the sizable Langjökull glacier. You can book a superjeep tour of Langjökull in your app or on the Iceland Travel website icelandtravel.is Into the Glacier offers tours into man made Ice Tunnels and Ice Caves from Reykjavík and Húsafell or you can meet them at the glacier edge. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website icelandtravel.is

Borgarnes Borgarnes (Rte. 1) is the largest coastal community in Iceland that is not dependent on fishing. The town is built on a scenic headland jutting into the picturesque fjord of Borgarfjörður, close to Borg, where the Viking poet and warrior, Egill Skallagrímsson – the eponymous hero of Egill’s Saga, one of Iceland’s most famous Sagas – lived in the 10th century. Borgarnes is known as the capital of the Borgarbyggð county. Borgarnes became an official trading center in 1867 when merchant ships sailed to Borgarfjörður, and the town soon developed into an important center for commerce between different regions of Iceland. The first mention of Borgarnes is found in Egill’s Saga, where it is written that when Egill’s grandfather Kveld-Úlfur realised he would die at sea, he said that on his death his coffin should be thrown overboard and a settlement established wherever it came ashore. The coffin, so the story 126

says, came ashore at Borgarnes. The Settlement Center in Borgarnes opened in 2006 and is worth a visit. It provides more detail about Egill’s Saga, mentioned above, and other sagas linked to the region. The museum is housed in three buildings. One permanent exhibition deals exclusively with Egill’s Saga, while another focuses on the settlement of Iceland. The Settlement Center also organises tours around the area, visiting places of particular interest in relation to Egill’s Saga. Brákarbraut 13. landnam.is/eng

Akranes Row-boat fishermen based themselves at Akranes (Rte. 51) as far back as the 1600s, and the township evolved during the 19th century. Fishing remains its main industry, but Akranes also has a cement plant, running since the 1950s, and an aluminium smelting plant that began operating in 1998. The landscape here is dominated by Mt. Akrafjall, home to thousands of gulls. At Garðar, on the outskirts of Akranes, is the Akranes Museum Centre. The Center incorporates the Akranes Folk Museum, the Icelandic Sports Museum and the Mineral Kingdom, as well as featuring an outdoor boat display. The Mineral Kingdom is highly recommended for anyone interested in a petrologic tour of Iceland – it has one of the biggest collections of Icelandic rocks under one roof, and explains the geology behind all those amazing colors you’ve been seeing in various rock formations around the country. Garðar – museum.is TRAVEL WEST ICELAND

Hvalfjörður Fjord Travelling between Reykjanes and Borgarnes you have the choice of either taking the Hvalfjarðargöng tunnel (Rte. 1) under the mouth of Hvalfjörður Fjord, or exploring the beautiful coastline of one of Iceland’s longest fjords (30km /18 miles), on Rte. 47. During World War II, Hvalfjörður became one of the most important Allied naval bases in the North Atlantic, as a refuelling station for the Allied fleet. The many large oil tanks around the village of Miðsandur are remnants of this refuelling station. Hvalfjörður translates as ‘whale fjord’, a name derived from the abundance of whales found here. Until 1986, Hvalfjörður was home to one of Iceland’s biggest whaling stations. Near the head of the fjord is the turnoff to Glymur waterfall, Iceland’s second TRAVEL WEST ICELAND

highest waterfall at 198m / 650ft. If you’re familiar with the much better known Gullfoss waterfall, keeping in mind that Glymur is five times the height of Gullfoss helps put it into perspective! The trail to Glymur is tricky in places, so be careful. You have to cross a narrow suspension bridge across the river at one point, so we don’t recommend this trip for young children. Allow 3 hours for a round trip from the car park up the east side of the river. The west side is a slightly easier and shorter walk, but the view isn’t nearly as good. Glymur means ‘boom’ or ‘rumble’ and comes from the natural sound of water falling far down into a narrow chasm, creating excellent acoustics. On the southern edge of Hvalfjörður is an area called Hvammur. This is a lovely forested area with many walking trails. 127

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel Travel the Interior Contrasting profoundly with the more hospitable exterior regions, the interior of Iceland is a howling wilderness of otherworldly vistas, where pristine deserts of sand and cinder are broken-up every now and then by heroic floral blooms, occasional shivering rivers, gleaming icecaps and jagged mountains. Because of the unpredictable extreme weather and lack of vegetation, very few people were brave enough to inhabit the desolate heart of Iceland and most outlaws, who were sent there as a punishment, swiftly perished. Even now the interior of Iceland remains unpopulated, and closed for tourism most of the year. Kjalvegur (or Kjölur) and Sprengisandur – the two main routes through the interior, were originally forged by Vikings on horseback as they made their way to the annual meetings in Þingvellir. With its challenging untamed appeal, many people are attracted to this last true wilderness of Europe and visit during the restricted travel season, which falls somewhere between June and August - depending on the weather, but even in this period, travelers must be vigilant and prepared for sudden extreme weather conditions - including snow storms.

The Kjalvegur Route Travelling from either end of Kjalvegur (Rte. 35), the connecting 165km (103 128

miles) stretch of mountain track is best suited for those with appropriate 4WD transport and good suspension. From the northern end, Kjalvegur is accessed via a turnoff halfway between Varmahlíð and Blönduós on Rte. 731, and exits in the southwest region at Gullfoss. The ghosts of Kjölur There are many stories of outlaws and others who have ended up in snowdriven tombs on the highlands; one of the tales tells of two brothers named Bjarni and Einar Halldórsson, who in the autumn of 1780, together with their travel companions, traversed the highlands to buy some sheep and horses in the South. On their return they were caught in a blizzard northeast of Kjalfell and tragically perished, together with their livestock; their bones were found 65 years later in a place subsequently dubbed ‘Bonehill’ (Beinahóll). Visitors camping in the area often witness mysterious shadows, and animal bones still turn up there regularly. TRAVEL THE INTERIOR

Hveravellir (Hot Spring Plains) At around 650m (2,133ft.) above sea-level this is one of Iceland’s best known geothermal high-temperature areas, with measurements reaching 150°C / 302°F, at a depth of 1,000m / 3281ft underground. This highlight of the Kjalvegur route has a camping area, mountain huts with sleeping-bag accommodation, a modest service centre, plus access to a geothermal pool for bathing. Note, keep to the boardwalks while exploring the sulphur-encrusted hot springs. THE OUTLAWS Lawbreakers in Iceland were frequently sent to the highlands of the interior as a punishment for their crimes, if they could survive the extreme wilderness for 20 years, their crimes would be forgiven and they would be allowed to return to the lowlands. The two most famous surviving inhabitants of the highlands were Eyvindur and his wife Halla, who lived for a period of time in Hveravellir, using the hot springs to cook their meals of pilfered sheep meat.

The Kerlingarfjöll Mountain massif is one of Iceland’s supermodels of nature and a favourite with photographers. The landscape features glimmering glaciers, steaming geothermal hot springs and a span of beautiful rhyolite mountain slopes, that shimmer in shades of yellow, red and green. The slopes are topped with a number of shapely peaks - the highest TRAVEL THE INTERIOR

rising up to 1,477m (4,846ft.) above sea-level. The area is also popular with hikers and has a number of great trails of varying length and difficulty. Huts are available for those who would like to spend more time exploring the chiselled ravines, and bathing in the bliss of natural thermal ponds. For more information on the area and accommodation, contact the service center at Ásgarður. kerlingarfjoll.is THE GIANTESS’S MOUNTAINS The Kerlingarfjöll name translates as ‘the woman’s mountains’ and originates from an old folk tale, which tells of a troll lady who didn’t make it back to the shelter of the mountain in time for sunrise and was consequently turned into stone. Standing at about 25m / 82ft high she was quite a large lady, or is it just a giant rock tower?

Hvítárvatn (White River Lake) At the southern end of the Kjölur route - around 45km (27 miles) from Gullfoss, a glacier outlet from the Langjökull ice-cap occasionally calves into Lake Hvítárvatn. This well vegetated oasis with its marshy plains creates a captivating scene, and is accessed via a turnoff from Rte. 35.

Sprengisandur Travelling from south to north, the 196km (122 miles) Sprengisandur route (Rte. 26) leads up to the Hrauneyjar highlands from the Þjórsár-dalur valley in the South Central and ends

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at Aldeyjarfoss in the North. Unlike the Kjalvegur route, Sprengisandur still has many unbridged rivers and can only be crossed using appropriate 4WD transport with good clearance and suspension. The route is accessible usually from the end of June until early September – depending on the weather. Traveling the Sprengisandur route by horse is a popular alternative adventure and takes around eight days to complete.

Fjallabak Nature Reserve Fjallabak was established in 1979 and covers around 47.000 hectares of land located in the southern interior of the country. The region gets its name from the wild rugged mountains, which are carved with deep valleys and sculpted by volcanic eruptions and geothermal activity. The region is accessed via the Sprengisandur road on Rte. 26.

Landmannalaugar Landmannalaugar (Rte. 26 > 208) is an exceptional hiking area and characterised by a colorful assortment of rhyolite mountains, canyons, glacial valleys, and fields of moss-topped lava. It’s renowned for its natural pools, formed when geothermal streams and cold spring water mix together creating a temperature just right for bathing in. This location also known for the spectacular 55km (34 mile) hiking route ‘Laugavegurinn’, which connects Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk

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(see below) through some epic and endlessly varied scenery. Although the altitude here is over 600m / 197ft above sea-level, the river banks are remarkably covered in soft grass and beautiful flora. Just before reaching Landmannalaugar there’s a little detour to an impressive crater-lake named Ljótipollur or Ugly Pond - with its stunning crimson screes disappearing into the blue-green water, this lake does not live up to its baffling name!

Eldgjá (Rte. 208) or ‘Fire Canyon’ is a 40km long volcanic chasm stretching from the Mýrdalsjökull glacier to Mt. Gjátindur. Its most impressive proportions can be admired at the northern end of Fjallbaksleið, where its width stretches 600m (1,968 ft.) across and with a depth of 200m (656 ft.) in places. Pouring from the Nyrðri-Ófæra River into the western side of Eldgjá is the wonderful waterfall named Ófærufoss, which drops down in two lively cascades. Until the year 1993 there was a frequently photographed stone arch, positioned perfectly over the lower cascade forming a natural bridge.

Veiðivötn (Rte. 228) is a cluster of volcanic crater-lakes northeast of Landmannalaugar. The lakes here, which are rich with trout, are popular with anglers who are attracted to the peaceful and idyllic environment. Accommodation and fishing permits are handled by veidivotn.is TRAVEL THE INTERIOR

LANDMANNALAUGAR | 63°59’2.0329“ N 19°3’59.9916“ W

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Þórsmörk Þórsmörk (Rte. 249) or Thór’s Forest, is an extraordinary valley enclosed between the sheltering Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull mountain glaciers. The valley is an oasis of vegetation, where moss, birch and fir trees grow in abundance, creating a vivid contrast with the surrounding snowcapped mountains. Because of the significant shelter, the valley has an unusually warm climate and is an attractive tourist destination, especially for Icelanders; it’s also very popular with ramblers for its excellent system of hiking trails and is both the start or end points of the famous Fimmvörðuháls trek and the Laugavegurinn hiking route. The area is a treasure of nature, with plenty of scenic surprises and a number of pleasant summits to scale, such as the easy-going Valahnjúkur or more demanding 132

Útigönguhöfði. There is also a variety of marvellous canyons such as Stakkholtsgjá, cut by large rivers, but now possible to explore from the ground. Þórsmörk is only accessible via hiking routes or by powerful 4WD vehicles and buses adapted for fording rivers. Transfers on a highland bus from Hella to Þórsmörk are availale and recommended. We can book this for you at Iceland Travel. Snorraríki (Snorri’s Dominion) is a cave located high on the slope of a basalt cliff on the trail between the Húsadalur and Langidalur. According to legend this cave was once the hiding place of an outlaw named Snorri who outsmarted his enemies and evaded capture.

The Eastern Interior There is a cluster of wonderful attractions on the Eastern Interior

route (Rte. 88) with Askja and Kverkfjöll – the star highlights, featuring at the southern end of the road. Though the sights are numerous, the trip can easily be done in a day; as a detour from the route connecting Egilsstaðir to Mývatn, or as a day trip from a northern base such as Akureyri or Mývatn. Note, the roads here are only suitable for drivers with 4WD vehicles. If you would like to visit the area but don’t have the right car you can book a tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website icelandtravel.is Hrossaborg (Horse City). A small trail leads to this 10,000 year old crater on Rte. 88. This natural amphitheatre gets its name from the horses who seek shelter there in bad weather. Herðubreið (Rte. 88). If this mountain looks familiar it’s because of its ubiquitous appearance on Icelandic picture postcards where its symmetrical 1,682m (5,518ft.) table form is framed in the foreground by the Lindaá river and the lush floral vegetation of Herðubreiðarlindir. In real life it’s even better! Drekagil or Dragon Gorge is a gnarly canyon and one of the highlights of the distorted Dyngjufjöll mountain massif surrounding the Askja caldera. Askja is classified as a Stratovolcano because of the layers of lava created from recurring eruptions over thousands of years. The most recent occurring in 1961. Öskjuvatn was formed in the devastating eruption of 1875, when part of the Askja caldera caved in and formed a crater lake with an

astounding depth of 217m (712ft.) - the deepest in Iceland. North of the crater is thermal lake called Víti (hell) where experienced Icelanders show the more hesitant tourists how to scurry down the slopes and plunge into the warm pearly water. Note, the slopes can be very slippery. Kverkfjöll. The northern rim of the Kverkfjöll Central Volcano protrudes from the hems of the Vatnajökull glacier, and stands erect between two of its cool glacier tongues. Above the surface its tallest peak Skarphéðins tindur, reaches 1,929m (6,328 ft.) but beneath the frozen white mass, where its calderas are buried, a battle of extreme elements rage. The trails around the area weave together a series of stunning sights, featuring river gorges, hot-springs, volcanic fissures, ice caves, and bathing pools fed by waterfalls. For more information on the range of trails and accommodation contact the warden at the Sigurðarskáli mountain hut on Rte. 902. fljotsdalsherad.is/ferdafelag In August 2014 a volcanic eruption began in Holuhraun, a large lava field just north of the Vatnajökull ice cap. The eruption lasted for 6 months and produced a lava field of more than 85 km2. Main text written and compiled by Jane Appleton and Lisa Shannen, who have both lived and traveled extensively in Iceland for many years, co-authored Frommer’s Iceland (2011) and blog for reykjavik.com.

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Calendar Festivals and events There are festivals, carnivals and cultural events happening somewhere in Iceland almost every day of the year. Here’s a summary of a few of the more prominent and popular ones, as well as a couple that aren’t as widely known, but we think should be! We’ve also included some key cultural dates, such as those relating to Icelandic customs around Christmas time.

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When

What

Where

January 6

Þrettándinn, the Twelfth Night, when elves and trolls come out and everyone gathers around bonfires.

All around Iceland check local tourist information for bonfire locations

Late January to late February

Þorrablót is a traditional winter festival coinciding with the old Icelandic month of Þorri. It involves a lot of traditional Icelandic food, so don’t be surprised if restaurant menus during this time list dishes such as sour ram’s testicles (súrsaðir hrútspungar), singed sheep’s head (svið) or liver and suet pudding (lifrarpylsa).

All over Iceland In homes and some restaurants

MidFebruary

The Reykjavík Winter Lights Festival features northern lights tours, dances, winter sports exhibitions, and a Museum Night during which many museums staying open until late, and a free bus service to shuttle people from one museum to the next.

Reykjavík vetrarhatid.is

February/ March

The Food and Fun Festival attracts top chefs from around the country and around the world. A very good time to be eating out!

Reykjavík foodandfun.is

March

Reykjavík Folk Festival - Listen to folk musicians of all agest at a three-day feast of folk music. Festival is at the beginning of March

Reykjavík folkfestival.is

When

What

Where

March

Design March - Hönnunarmars Iceland’s most important annual design festival. From fashion to furniture, architecture to food design, the festival showcases the best of the local design scene alongside exciting international names. Note: Design March 2021 will be held in May 2021 because of COVID-19 restrictions.

Reykjavík designmarch.is

Monday before Ash Wednesday

Bolludagur, or ‘bun day’, is the day for eating Icelandic cream puffs.

All around Iceland

Tuesday before Ash Wednesday

Sprengidagur, ‘bursting day’, is for eating salted meat and pea soup – to bursting point. It’s a welcome relief after all the cream puffs from the day before.

All around Iceland

Ash Wednesday

Öskudagur Ash Wednesday. Öskudagur Ash Wednesday is originally a Catholic holiday but nowadays it is Iceland’s answer to Halloween. Children dress up in fancy costumes, and visit shops and companies where they sing in exchange for candy.

All around Iceland

Easter weekend

Aldrei fór ég suður (‘I never went south’) contemporary music festival of established and up-and-coming musicians.

Ísafjörður aldrei.is

Thursday between April 19 & 25

The official first day of summer. Communities hold fun, family-oriented outdoor activities.

All around Iceland national holiday

Mid-May to early June

The Reykjavík Arts Festival promotes Icelandic and international culture in all fields of art.

Reykjavík artfest.is

1st weekend in June

Sjómannadagur, Seafarer’s Day salutes the lives and work of fishermen and anyone else working at sea. Parades, cultural events, competitions and plenty of tasty seafood.

All around Iceland

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When

What

Where

June, July & August: Sundays 4pm

Musical Moments at Gljúfrasteinn. Weekly concerts in an intimate setting, ranging from folk songs to classical violin.

Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum gljufrasteinn.is

June to August

Hóladómkirkja Cathedral concert series – *the schedule is posted on the website listed, but not always in English.

Hólar kirkjan.is/holar*

June to August

Summer Arts Festival is a seasonal celebration in Akureyri, focused on culture and the arts, with concerts, exhibitions, dancing, theatre, literature and more.

Akureyri listak.is

Mid-June

The Viking Market – a festival of Viking culture, attracting Viking enthusiasts from all around the world, some in full Viking costume. Highlights include markets, dances, music and wrestling.

Hafnarfjörður fjorukrain.is

June 17

Iceland’s Independence Day, or National Day – Þjóðhátíðardagurinn. On this day in 1944, the Republic of Iceland was formed. June 17 was the birthday of Jón Sigurðsson, a major figure of the 19th century Icelandic independence movement. Festivities in most towns. Parades in Akureyri and Reykjavík, plus street theatres, dancing and other performances.

All over Iceland A national holiday

Late June

Arctic Open, an international golf tournament hosted by the Akureyri Golf Club in North Iceland, where golfers get to play under the midnight sun.

Akureyri arcticopen.is

July & August: Tuesdays 8.30pm

The Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum summer concert series featuring classical and jazz performers.

Reykjavík lso.is

When

What

Where

July

Siglufjörður Folk Festival is a lively musical celebration of traditional Icelandic folk music.

Siglufjörður folkmusik.is

Mid-July

LungA Arts Festival, a celebration of art, with workshops, concerts and fashion shows in Seyðisfjörður.

Seyðisfjörður lunga.is

July to early August

Skálholt Summer Concerts Festival, a free classical music festival.

Skálholt Church sumartonleikar.is

2nd weekend in July

Irish Days in Akranes festival, celebrating the town’s Irish origins with dancing, Irish music and contests including the “reddest redhead competition”.

Akranes irskirdagar.is

Late June

Secret Solstice Music festival in Reykjavík.

secretsolstice.is

Late June

Reykholtshátíð Music Festival, an international (mainly classical) music festival with a growing reputation and in a unique setting at the historic Reykholt.

Reykholt reykholtshatid.is

1st weekend in August

Verslunarmannahelgi Bank Holiday Weekend During this long weekend there is a quirky music festival in Reykjavík called “Innipúkinn. More info at https://www.facebook.com/Innipukinnfestival

All over Iceland A national holiday on the Monday

1st week in August

The Herring Festival a nostalgic celebration of Siglufjörður’s boom-town herring days, with fish preparation, music and family entertainment.

Siglufjörður fjallabyggd.is

Thursday to Monday 1st week in August

Ein Með Öllu (‘One With Everything’) is a family festival in Akureyri - and also a popular type of hotdog in Iceland.

Akureyri, visitakureyri.is

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When

What

Where

2nd weekend in August

The Gay Pride Festival is a hugely popular celebration characterised by music, color and joy. Unusual among worldwide Gay Pride festivals in that it is first and foremost a family event. More than 100,000 people attend.

Reykjavík gaypride.is

3rd or 4th Saturday in August

Menningarnótt, Reykjavik Culture Night – arguably Reykjavík’s biggest cultural event of the year. Concerts, exhibitions, happenings, and downtown residents opening their houses to offer Icelandic waffles and café. Always the same day as the popular Reykjavik Marathon where over ten thousand participants flock to Reykjavík to compete in the various events.

Reykjavík menningarnott.is marathon.is

August/ September

Reykjavík Jazz Festival

Reykjavík, reykjavikjazz.is

1st weekend in September

Ljósanótt, Night of the Lights Festival, featuring local performers, family events, street markets and the lighting of cliffs facing Reykjanesbær.

Reykjanesbær ljosanott.is

September/ October

Reykjavík International Film Festival

Reykjavík riff.is

September to early October

Icelandic sheep roam free in the summer until the sheep farmers round them up on foot and on horseback. Réttir, sheep round-ups, take place all over Iceland and are a lot of fun – volunteers welcome!

All around Iceland - try the local tourist information center for details of tours or opportunities to participate.

When

What

Where

October/ early November

Iceland Airwaves. The country’s biggest music festival, and one of the world’s coolest. Airwaves gains in popularity and reputation every year, attracting an excellent range of local and international musicians and holding the city in a state of musical bliss for five days and nights.

Reykjavík icelandairwaves.is

October 9 to December 8.

The Imagine Peace Tower at Viðey Island is lit, marking the anniversaries of John Lennon’s birth and death. The beam of light can be seen from all over Reykjavík.

Viðey Island

December 12

Christmas in Iceland begins. The first yuletide lad arrives from the mountains this day, to the delight of children who receive a little something in their shoe every morning now until Christmas. Imagine a country with 13 Santas! A lovely time of year if you happen to be visiting.

All around Iceland

December 23

Þorláksmessa, the Mass of Saint Þorlákur. Shops are open late, and restaurants smell of ammoniainfused fermented skate.

All around Iceland

December 24

Christmas Eve, the main day of celebration for Christian Icelanders.

All around Iceland

December 31

New Year’s Eve, Iceland’s crowning winter event, when the capital city kicks-starts the new year with an incredible fireworks display. The event now attracts thousands of visitors from abroad who join in the fun as the city’s residents set off around 500 tons of fireworks.

Reykjavík inspiredbyiceland. com

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Car-Rental information Iceland Travel offers a great variety of Car Rental Packages which are the perfect choice for individuals, families and small groups who prefer traveling independently. Enjoy the freedom and flexibility to explore different places at your own leisurely pace. Organized Self-drive

Detours off the Ring Road

Iceland Travel offers a number of programs for people who want to enjoy the best of Iceland by rental car.

Roads through uninhabited areas are usually of a reasonable standard, though narrower. Many are paved but some are still gravel and one should take care when driving on these roads. When planning your route, more time should be allowed for driving on minor roads where your speed may average only 70 km/ph.

We offer packages including rooms with either private or shared facilities. The accommodation is a combination of hotels, summer hotels, guesthouses and farms. Extra nights in Reykjavík and additional car rental days can be booked with all programs. Iceland Travel provides high quality service and we provide an emergency telephone number, open 24 hours all year. Tel. + 354 893 6115.

The Icelandic Road system The Ring Road Circling the island is Iceland’s Ring Road which is 1400 km (906 miles). Many major sights and accommodation options are on or within easy reach of it, making the Ring Road an ideal choice for the first time visitor. The circular route can be covered in a week, but in ten days or more, you have extra time to enjoy places of interest along the way.

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Driving in off-season Driving conditions in the wintertime are quite different from summer. Weather conditions change rapidly and can play a decisive role. Roads might be icy or covered by snow and the frequency, at which roads are cleared, varies. It is important to check road and weather conditions before setting off by phoning 1777 and 902-0600 or visiting road.is and vedur.is. Please respect road warning signs and do not venture out on roads that are closed. Iceland Travel does not recommend the self drive packages around the island in winter. CAR – RENTAL INFORMATION

We emphasize that all routes outside the circle road nr. 1 can be closed in the winter and all our itineraries that cover other roads can and need to be changed according to road conditions. The highland tracks of Iceland are not expected to be open until the middle of June and some even later. For self drive out side main summer season we recommend 4WD.

Rental Cars Cars can be delivered to all major airports around the country. Please note that types of cars may vary from one rental agency to the other. Airport Service Charge. An airport Service Charge will apply to all rentals with pick-up at Keflavík International airport.

another. Price for One-Way rental is subject to availability and location. Additional driver. The person named on the reservation booking must be the main driver, present at time of rental and payer of any rental charges. An additional driver is possible and free of charge for Iceland Travel customers. Additional equipment such as child seats are upon request and payable upon arrival. Deposit An authorization from a major credit card will be taken at the start of all rentals as a deposit even when the cost of the rental is covered by a voucher. This deposit may be used to cover the insurance excess and any extra charges such as petrol and traffic tickets.

One-Way Rentals are those whereby the customer starts the rental in one location and returns the vehicle to CAR – RENTAL INFORMATION

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Credit Card Required No rentals can take place without the main driver having a major credit card present. Shuttle Service Cars are not delivered to hotels, however upon request a shuttle service will pick up the driver directly at all major hotels/guesthouses in Reykjavík and bring him/her to the car rental offices, where the rental procedures will be handled. Please note that this process could take some time. Each morning the Shuttle will follow a specific route between 08:15 – 10:00. Please note that the shuttle has to respect a schedule and will not wait for customers that are not ready. If the customers miss the shuttle they can be picked up after 10:00 on request. Only one person per car rental can be taken to the rental location. Car Delivery The car rental company will do their best to deliver the vehicle at the agreed time and to ensure that it meets the requirements made upon it. However, the car rental company can not provide any compensation if the car delivery is late according to reservation. Car Drop off in Reykjavík Please note that the drop off at the car rental offices in Reykjavik must take place within the opening time of the office itself.

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Accident/damage In the event of a car breakdown, theft or accident the car rental emergency number (available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week) must be contacted immediately. In the event of an accident, the police must be called to the scene so that a correct and official Police Report can be made. If damages occur to the vehicle while it is stationary and the driver is absent (e.g. car is parked), the driver must go to the nearest police station to report the damage. The same procedure applies should the vehicle be stolen. Driver’s License The driver must present a valid driver’s licence held for a minimum of one year at the time of rental. An International Driving Permit (IDP) / International Driving License (IDL) is also required if your national driver’s licence is not in the Roman script. Vehicles for 10 persons and more require a driving licence D or a B licence which has been issued before March 1988. Driving Restrictions 2wd vehicles are not allowed to be driven on roads marked F on official maps as well as Kjölur (Road no. 35) and Kaldidalur (Road no. 550). Should these restrictions be ignored, all insurance (Third Party Liability, CDW, TP, PAI), if accepted, shall be deemed, null and void. The driver will be held fully responsible in case of accidents or collision, including the cost of repair of the damaged vehicle and the cost of towing. CAR – RENTAL INFORMATION

Refilling fee If the car is not returned with a full tank a refilling charge which is about 70% higher than petrol station prices applies. Insurance By signing the Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), renters accept or decline, according to current tariffs, to pay an additional fee which reduces liability in case of damage to the rented vehicle or a third party. All rentals are subject to a non-waivable excess (see the car rental’s pricelist for further details) for which the customer is responsible in the event of damage to the veichle during the rental. If customers choose to rely

CAR – RENTAL INFORMATION

on a credit card for cover, we strongly recommend that they fully understand the terms and conditions of any cover provided by the credit card company before declining any optional services. Important Accidents incurred by crossing streams and rivers are exempt from insurance coverage. Driving off the roads is prohibited. The CDW does not cover damages to passengers’ cars (group 1, 2, 3, 4) on roads marked with F on official maps. The renter will also be held responsible for any expense due to towing and transporting a vehicle if it is damaged in driving conditions such as those mentioned above.

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Accidents and damages Driving in Iceland is not like driving on the highways of North America or the motorways of Europe. All the car rental front desk employees are trained to advise you at the beginning of your rental of his rental what to be aware of, how to drive and a quick overview of those major things that are different about driving in Iceland. In addition, safety information is handed out with the rental agreement as well as various safety signs in the car. Renters are required to read the insurance terms and conditions carefully. If the customer has caused a small damage to the car he is required to report this to the car rental immediately. Report an accident In the event of an accident, the police must be called to the scene so that a correct official Police Report can be made. In addition, the car rental emergency number must be called to report the accident. Transport of a damaged car The renter will always have to cover the cost for transporting the damaged vehicle. The cost is per km with a minimum fee according to the car rental’s pricelist at any given time. Car Replacement Please note that replacing a damaged car with a new car is subject to availability. Sometimes the replacement car will not be the same vehicle as the damage car. Such action

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by the car rental does not constitute a breach of the contract and does not entitle the renter to any refund. If no alternative vehicle is available, the car rental has no liability for refund any cost inferred by the renter. Tires Tires are always the renter’s liability. If tires go flat the renter is responsible for replacing the tire with same pattern and size at the nearest tire garage. If there is no tire with same pattern available the renter is required to call the car rental emergency number for instructions. There is one spare wheel provided with each car. The car rental does not offer an emergency service for replacing flat tires. Windshields Windshields are always the renter’s liability. Please see insurance terms and conditions. Underbody and Water damage The renter can never be insured against damage to the underbody of the car. All damages are to be reported immediately to the car rental emergency number. The renter is always responsible for all damages caused by water. Cost of damage All damages are payable at the end of the rental. The renter is responsible to inform the car rental about any damages that have occurred to the car. The car rental may debit the bank card or credit card of the renter for the rental charge and other costs CAR – RENTAL INFORMATION

renter checks the car and asks for amendments in case he/she sees something he/she wants to put on the before leaving car rental office in case something needs to be added to the VCR. A copy of the VCR is in the car and another copy is attached to the rental agreement. This prevents that the customer gets charged for damages he is not responsible for. Car breakdown

payable by the Renter hereunder, such as payments in respect of damage to the vehicle while in the possession of the Renter. The time of payment and whether it is to be made in lump sum shall be the sole discretion of the car rental. This right shall remain unaffected for 6 months following the return of the vehicle to the car rental. The cost of damage is determined by a price list available at all car rental locations and will be collected according to the price list. In the case of major damages not covered by insurance, e.g. water damage, the cost will be estimated by an authorized garage. Vehicle Condition Report (VCR) With every rental the customer gets handed over receives a Vehicle Condition Report. All scratches and dents are marked on the VCR. The customer is asked to sign the VCR and is handed a copy of the report. We recommend that the guest CAR – RENTAL INFORMATION

In the event that the vehicle malfunctions owing to wear or other reasons for which the renter is not responsible, the car rental will supply him with another vehicle as soon as possible or ensure that a repair is to be completed as soon as possible at a location specified by The car rental. The above does not affect the payment of the rent or any other charges payable by the renter hereunder. The car rental pays no damages in cases such as hereinabove provided, neither for accommodation nor other things. If damages occur to the vehicle while it is stationary and the driver is absent (e.g. car is parked) the driver must contact the nearest police station to report the damage. The same procedure applies if the vehicle is stolen. Emergencies In case of emergency (police, ambulance, firefighters) call 112 immediately.

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Skriðuklaustur

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Herðubreiðarlindir

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Seyðisfjörður Klifbrekkufossar

Reyðarfjörður

Fáskrúðsfjörður Kárahnjúkar

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Veiðivötn

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Ingólfshöfði

Kirkjubæjarklaustur

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ICELAND MAP Hjörleifshöfði

100 km

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We care for Iceland Dear Guest, Iceland Travel is an eco-friendly company that takes environmental matters and the protection of nature seriously. It is important we all respect the environment and make as little disturbance as possible in our travels so Iceland continues to be unique destination for all of us. Most visitors to Iceland are here for the first time and do perhaps not realise how fragile and vulnerable our environment is. Therefore, we ask you to help us protect our nature by being a responsible traveller and serve as role model to others on your travel around our beautiful country. For this reason, we would like to ask you to follow these simple guidelines when travelling:

1. L eave sites in the same state as you found them 2. P lease do not leave waste behind or bury it in the ground 3. M ake sure to walk only on marked trails/paths 4. P lease do not to cause damage to the fragile vegetation

7. W ater supplies are sensitive and should not be mishandled, keep water sources, springs, and pools clean 8. Never drive off-road 9. R espect and comply with conservation rules set by local supervisors and rangers

5. M ake sure not to disturb or affect wildlife

10. Never interrupt or corrupt the geographical development or formation of the country

6. P lease do not to corrupt the environment, move stones or make cairns

11. R espect the peace and quiet of rural life

Have a great stay in Iceland, The Iceland Travel Team

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We at Iceland Travel hope you have enjoyed your stay in Iceland and wish you a safe journey back home.

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"Traveling — it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller." - Ibn Battuta

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JÖKULSÁRLÓN | 64°2’53.052“ N 16°10’51.168“ W

Iceland Travel Road Book 2022 English

Articles inside

Car Rental Information

Events

Travel the Westfjords

Travel West Iceland

Travel the Interior

Travel Snæfellsnes

Travel the North-West

Travel the North

Travel the East

Travel the South Coast

Travel the Northeast

Travel Reykjanes

Travel the South Central

Travel the South Coast from Vík to Höfn

Travel in and around Reykjavík