Wedding Trader - issue 32 by Love Our Wedding

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Harrogate Bridal Week HOW WAS IT FOR YOU?

Y UDLING O R P ORTH P P SU RITIS AR B WE AL BRIDTAILERS RE

New gizmos TECHNOLOGY THAT WILL REALLY HELP

ISSUE 32• NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 22

American Dream TRENDS FROM ACROSS THE POND

Big Day plans BRIDES AND THEIR BUDGETS

Best sellers

Indications from the order books

IAN ST UART

1967-2022

Contents 11

NEWS New collections, people and places

F I RST P E R SON 60 Laura Daly talks about the need right now for a bit of sparkle

T HE NE XT B IG N A M E Everybody is talking about Josephine Scott

SECOND OPINION 66 Sue Lovell does some serious shopping... and meeting and greeting

PE TA’ S PL AC E From hall to hall, stand to stand, searching for all things new

HAPPY HARROGATE Wendy Adams has been there from the start

RETAILERS TALK Looking, finding, celebrating at Harrogate

BRIDESPEAK Cutting back... or not

O NE V E RY FINE DAY INDE E D We talked to the CEO of this very intimate and hugely successful show in New York

M AT E R IAL M ATT E R S Check out the trends in formalwear fabrics

OVER TO TH E EXH I B ITO R S So, how was it for them? 78

T HE BESTSELLERS The ones that hit the right note

RBA NE WS Yes, they loved it!

L ET TE R FR OM AMER ICA Peter Grimes forward thinking

IN CONVERSATION WITH... Talking shop with Mark Stephens of The Bridal Collective

QUESTIONS QUESTIONS And James Waddington of Romantica has all the answers

T RO P H Y TIME Congrats to the Awards winners

WIT H PAS S IO N Christine Dando of Dando London talks about her newest collections

ANSWE R ING R E TA I LE R S Q U EST IO NS Helena Cotter on what her clients want to know

T EC HNO You really need one of the new e-ink tablets - to write on, to draw on, to love

GO ING L EGAL Getting the green light

AND FINAL LY… Your place, your voice

ANGELA BIANCA

SILK AND MAPLE

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BRITISH BY DESIGN Introducing the stunning 2023 bridal collections from Romantica. Please visit our website at www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk to view the ranges and contact sales@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information about becoming a stockist.

ELYSEEBRIDAL.COM

Ed’s Letter

Now that this year’s second half buying season has come to a close, everyone we speak to seems to be hugely relieved. And that’s because they were a bit apprehensive before. Having budget-concerns and yes, being nervous of making the wrong choice, was disconcerting for many. Then they walked through open doors to be dazzled by collection after collection that lived up to the promise of design ingenuity. In Harrogate and New York, Chicago and London, Barcelona, Essen and Rome, retailers were welcomed with open arms by suppliers (many of whom who had suffered an equal number of pre-event concerns) who wanted to get back to business, and relationship building. At any major trade event in any industry, there will be the exhibitors’ success stories to celebrate and the not-so-fruitful experiences to commiserate with. The winners in bridal are the ones who offer something special to stockists by way of their collections, and who have taken on board the difficulties that shops experience when prices soar, putting certain brands out of court. As a retailer, when you have a name for selling gowns within a certain price bracket, it is key to your personality – and word of mouth references – that you do everything to stay in the framework you have created. So a big thanks to those suppliers WEDDING who have done whatever they can to move with their partners into the next chapter. Here’s to 2023; may it bring success all Harrogate round. American Bridal

Trader WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Week

HOW WAS IT FOR YOU?

UDLY PRO RTING O SUPPRITISH AR B E ALW BRIDTAILERS RE

EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND

New gizmos TECHNOLOGY THAT WILL REALLY HELP

Andy Allen Art Director “I’ve enjoyed learning about the new gizmos that will take my sketching to a new level.” (p82) Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “It is fascinating to see the gowns that look like being the new season’s bestsellers.” (p32)

ISSUE 32• NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 22

susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Deputy Editor Jade Pepperell jade@meanttobemedia.com

Sales Manager Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com

Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com @WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader

weddingtradermag.com

Dream

TRENDS FROM ACROSS THE POND

Big Day plans BRIDES AND THEIR BUDGETS

Best sellers

Indications from the order books

Cover image: Lara, by Elysée Atelier, a gown that has it all

Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales “Hearing from brides-to-be about where they see cutting costs in the current climate is a real eye-opener.” (p58)

Editor Susi Rogol

Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 18 Taylors Lane, London SE26 6QL. Tel: 0785 558 7219 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com

Trader WEDDING

Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish:

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ENZOANI.COM

TALKIN G POINT The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

From New York... Fall 2023 Trends The US shows presented a clear picture of the trends that are expected to hit the headlines next year. They are: • Bare shoulders • Detailed corsets • Dramatic bows • Drop waists • Feathers • Long sleeves • Minis • Opera Gloves • Separates • Ski high slits One of the many brands that dazzled was that of Nadia Manjarrez who, expanding on the beauty of nature, put a strong focus on the textures found within it: billowing clouds, delicate flowers and lightweight feathers, brought to life by her in-house atelier team that hand-appliqued, embroidered and created dimension through 3D leaf embroideries. Staying true to her original concept of modular pieces, the collection features removable puff sleeves, peplums and oversized bows as well as gowns that transform into cocktail dresses with just one zipper. www.nadiamanjarrez.com

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DIARY NOTE… Harrogate Fashion Week 5-6 February 2023 The eighth edition of this great designerfest of occasionwear, highfashion daywear, knitwear and casuals

looks like being the biggest yet, with names from across the world heading to Harrogate to show off their latest collections. Check out the website www. harrogatefashionweek.com/brands/ to see the brands already signed up.

Congratulations... Well, he finally did it. Justin Warshaw of Justin Alexander married his lovely Kelsey Turchy in a wildly romantic celebration in the historic Castello di Celsa in Siena. The bride wore – no prizes for guessing – a custom made JA gown for the ceremony, Bobbie from the Signature Collection for the reception and another custommade number for the party. And the groom? He wore the biggest smile ever! Wishing the newly-weds a sparkling future.

ALL TOGETHER NOW Rhinestones, feathers, off-theshoulder lines and high splits – the key statement-making ingredients together in one gorgeous party prom dress. This is style 7280S, from Gino Cerruti. +44(0) 20 8904 5000 / www.ginocerruti.com

Headliners We love this handmade cupchain and pearl knotted headband, style SB515, from Emma Bridals. £125. +44 (0)330 1000 203 / www.emmabridals.com 12 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 2

Advice... Here’s a question Maria Musgrove of The Pantiles Bride was recently asked: “As we retailers are all too aware, the market has changed, buying habits have changed, brides’ expectations have changed. And, of course, challenges from the high street and internet have changed everything. I have been in business for three years and want to be in business for the next 10 years at least, but I do feel threatened. How do those who have clocked up decades stay on top of the game? I could do with some sound advice here.” And here’s Maria’s response: We, the six finalists in this year’s Longstanding Retailer of the Year category in the Bridal Buyer Awards, know and respect each other and we share the pride in being recognised for the products and service we deliver. To have been ahead of the game for so long, in an industry that has seen great change, especially in the past five years, is an achievement, but that doesn’t mean we do not face challenges – and, in my case right now – threats. Social media has unquestionably provided everyone with the opportunity to communicate quickly to a wide audience and to react to market advances. We have some brilliant social media talents who know how to spread the word, but we also have to face the fact that misinformation abounds. Very recently, one of my brides started using social media to criticise me, my staff and her dress – the shoulder strap of which snapped during her wedding celebrations. A local journalist called me for my reaction and then joined the forum conversation herself by commenting on the ‘craft’ look and feel of some of our laces. Not having access to that forum, I couldn’t respond to say that yes, cotton lace, crochet and macramé are on-trend now and yes, they owe more to arts and crafts than they do to couture – that’s what boho is all about. This bride will certainly have damaged my reputation and knowing I have no right to reply is both frustrating and upsetting. But to stay on top you have to ride with the times and have some form of defence in place when and if needed. By that I mean develop relationships with your local press so that they will listen and publish your comments; use your own social media platforms to underpin your position, use your own website to make a concise statement. Challenge those who challenge you. You need to win battles to be respected.”

WARNING! Self Assessment customers could be a target for fraudsters, HMRC warns Self Assessment customers who are starting to think about their annual tax returns for the 2021 to 2022 tax year should guard against being targeted by fraudsters, warns HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC). In the 12 months to August 2022, HMRC responded to more than 180,000 referrals of suspicious contact from the public, of which almost 81,000 were scams offering fake tax rebates. Criminals claiming to be from HMRC have targeted individuals by email, text and phone with their communications ranging from offering bogus tax rebates to threatening arrest for tax evasion. Contacts like these should sound alarm bells – HMRC would never call threatening arrest. Anyone contacted by someone claiming to be from HMRC in a way that arouses suspicion is advised to take their time and check the scams advice on GOV.UK. Customers can report any suspicious activity to HMRC. They can forward suspicious texts claiming to be from HMRC to 60599 and emails to phishing@ hmrc.gov.uk. Any tax scam phone calls can be reported to HMRC using the online form on GOV.UK. Myrtle Lloyd, HMRC’s Director General for Customer Services, said: “Never let yourself be rushed. If someone contacts you saying they’re from HMRC, wanting you to urgently transfer money or give personal information, be on your guard. HMRC will never ring up threatening arrest. Only criminals do that. “Tax scams come in many forms. Some threaten immediate arrest for tax evasion, others offer a rebate. Contacts like these should

set alarm bells ringing, so take your time and check ‘HMRC scams advice’ on GOV.UK.” Fraudsters target customers when they know they are more likely to be in contact with HMRC, which is why Self Assessment customers should be extra vigilant to this activity. There is a risk they could be taken in by scam texts, emails or calls either offering a ‘refund’ or demanding unpaid tax, thinking that they are genuine HMRC communications referring to their Self Assessment return. Some customers who have not done a Self Assessment return previously might be tricked into clicking on links in these emails or texts and revealing personal or financial information to criminals. The deadline for filing online tax returns for the 2021 to 2022 tax is 31 January 2023. Customers who file their return online via GOV.UK should not share their HMRC login details. Someone using the details could steal from the customer or make a fraudulent claim in their name. HMRC is actively tackling the scams and fraudsters who attempt to mimic genuine HMRC activity and messages. The department’s dedicated Customer Protection Team works continuously to identify and close down scams. HMRC also tackles misleading websites designed to make people pay for services that should be free or low cost, charging to connect people to free HMRC phone helplines. To protect the public, HMRC formally disputes and takes ownership of HMRC-branded internet domain or website names. Since 2017, the department has recovered more than 183 websites hosting low-value services such as callconnection sites, saving the public millions of pounds.

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First Person Laura Daly goes for a bit of sparkle – in more ways than one – to bring a bit of cheer into the current climate

’m writing this whilst listening to our new Prime Minister’s first Questions in Parliament. The third PM in as many months and, quite honestly, by the time this piece is published, I wouldn’t entirely rule out the possibility of a fourth having been perhaps elected or, who knows, by some other means inserted in the role. You’ll almost certainly be relieved to know that I’m not going to get into politics here but I’ve a feeling

that many of you may agree with my sentiment that it’s all a bit of a mess. Uncertainty seems to be the UK’s middle name and I take no great comfort in knowing that the rest of the civilised world doesn’t seem to be faring much better either. In fact, having to trade with some of those troubled countries in order to run my business makes me worry even more! My coping strategy in the face of such wobbly times as these has

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always been to be proactive, to have a plan and a list, and to seek out the humour and light in even the darkest corners. So, for the umpteenth time in the past three years, I’ve found myself doing just that. Sometimes, little gems of ideas become much bigger, more sparkly jewels that can enrich not only our own lives, but also the lives of those around us, so I thought I’d share some of my twinkly thoughts.

1. Make sure your workforce is okay doors in troubled times are the ones said it! It can be easy sometimes Ask them what keeps them awake at who have kept the faith. They are still just to vent your frustration at night; reach out to them more than out searching for the perfect dress, whoever has taken your call. But you’ve ever done. Let them know still planning on getting married, and bear in mind that they are nearly just how much you appreciate them still as excited as any other bride at always dealing with a situation all. Keep the conversation flowing any other time in history. created by others which they are and your office door always open. In When the going gets tough, it’s easy simply trying to help resolve. If you difficult trading times, when there’s to expose a layer of desperation feel that things may not be playing nothing but doom and gloom on which, in other times, remains hidden out quite the way you would like the news and fewer customers are from our customers. Now is NOT the and you’ve just been shouted coming through the door, it doesn’t time for a hard sell. at by an unhappy customer, it take much for staff room doesn’t mean that you get talk to turn to job security “In the face of such wobbly times as to pass these things on to worries. the next person. Quite the these, I choose to be proactive, to contrary. Be the pacifier, not Be very careful about how you express your concerns have a plan and a list, and to seek the warmonger. You’d be for any financially- based surprised how much easier business matter. If you have out the humour and light in even the life becomes! Do you want anyone in your employ, then to be the person that causes darkest corners.” you absolutely have to know another to drive home that, if they hear this, they crying? Or would you rather will be worried too. Don’t expect be a happy highlight of someone’s This bride chose you. Over all the them to be worried for you, or feel day? other shops in her area, she chose sympathy for your situation; they will you! It’s now more than ever a time be worried about how it will affect to celebrate, to embrace and ensure 4. Reach out to fellow retailers them and their job, and their ability Call your bridal buddies! Reach out she has the time of her life. When to pay their mortgage. Don’t take it she buys, you can be sure that you’re and be there for them. Meet for a personally. drink, send that message and build the business she has trusted for her Remember also that job burn-out, your bridges wisely. Now is not the most precious and prized purchase especially in times of slim pickings, because she got the experience time to pull back and stay home. is real. So keep an eye on your and the love that she needed, not The only people in the whole world workforce sick leave levels. A poor because you forced her into a sale! who understand exactly what you’re sickness record can easily be to do Disrupt a customer’s personal buying going through and the sacrifices with job worries, so make sure that pattern at your peril, it will come you sometimes have to make are you’re having those awkward talks back and bite you on the bum! those as crazy as you –other bridal and be proactive when you identify retailers! I’d go as far as to say that a problem. 3. Take time to reach out to your my bridal buddies are my biggest, suppliers shiniest jewels! They are gems to be 2. Love your customers Suppliers and their customer service cherished. They bring sparkles to my The brides that make it through our teams are people too - there, I’ve life. Let’s all sparkle for each other!

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Second Opinion Sue Lovell on her buying spree... and her love affair with both product and people

ow was it for you? For me Harrogate was brilliant. I fell in love with Jupon accessories, Morilee did not disappoint – in fact, it truly excelled – and my hard and fast plan to stick to a budget fell away like conkers from the tree outside my office. I went in focused and determined to be ruthless, placed my super large order in recordbreaking time and with such ease, even Mr T looked impressed at my no-nonsense approach! No dithering about, I just went for it! I like to think I’m a woman of my word; if I take a stand, I usually stand firm. I can hold a grudge though; in fact if grudge holding was a sport, I’d be right up there with Serena Williams, world class and dedicated. So this trip to Harrogate came to me

as a bit of a shock. I have held firm to the decree I issued in my store a few years ago that Hell would freeze before I sold another pair of shoes. After stock issues, poor customer service, customers getting a better service online or in a department store than we as a shop got from the very same supplier, I deleted shoes from BridalLive and the shop floor. Financially for me at the time, it didn’t stack up and the stress caused from a particular supplier was just irritating to me. Life is too short to be arguing over a heel falling off a bridal shoe at the altar, to be told “well, she obviously wore it”. I do not forget these things, it may seem petty, but customer service is key, and if you can’t get that right over something so small, then the trust is gone. So, “begone with you, bridal footwear!” But… I DO love shoes, and shoes had brought a lovely man into my life. As firm as I usually stand in my conviction, I am loyal and once someone gets into my battered old heart, I hold them dear. Seeing the warm and smiling face of

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old friend Graham Lewin at The Perfect Bridal stand changed everything. He greeted me with a hug and a welcome that made me melt, and I stepped onto, yes, a shoe stand! We chatted as old friends do, and he expertly turned the conversation to the joy of shoes. Oh, he’s so slick, he knows me so well; he enticed me in with a gorgeous pair of ivory leather bridal boots. From there he smoothly guided me to bridal trainers and before I knew it, I was falling back into a relationship with footwear. As with any rekindled love, I am taking it slowly. I’m no fool, I’ve been bitten before, but I’m hoping that dipping the proverbial toe back in, it may be a good thing for me and my brides. I am certainly seeing more bridal trainers at fittings, and these ones from Perfect Bridal are so cute! So, although I said baby steps, Graham has already visited me in my studio, and shoes will soon be back in my shop floor. Hell may just have experienced a cold snap, but Graham is one of the good guys, and I trust him to lead the way, and he

responsible; not if we want our kids to follow in our industry footsteps. I was pleased to see suppliers trying out more ethical marketing, and packaging, but we need to do more. Not just us, but the venues do, It’s all about the people too. We all probably have branded reReps make or break a brand in my useable, refillable water bottles in our eyes. A good one, one you trust, cupboards, and we need to use them. can bring with them an army of After a day’s hike around the halls, we independent shops; a bad one can need to refill them. Yep, we can all sink a label for a season – or forever knock back the prosecco and gin, but if changes aren’t made. But often the we need to stay hydrated, too. All the relationship with a Rep will transcend stress of running a business causes a brand… relationships run deeper than wrinkles – water combats that, a product. I remember one it’s a proven fact! Rep, and how they were with me and my staff, and even if Exhibition halls need to provide People buy from people, so a good I don’t stock the brand they more places for water bottles to rep is a fantastic investment any represent now, I will always be filled, reducing the waste of recommend them. People single use plastic bottles. I am designer can make. buy from people, so a good sure there must be some there, rep is a fantastic investment but I didn’t see any. That may be any designer can make. We because I was focused on other eye, but was one of the most talked may be independent shops, but we things, talking too much, or it may be talk, we recommend, and we share our about:Josephine Scott. Josie was because there was nothing visible. We inspired by her first visit to Harrogate good and bad experiences. need to use these items regularly and at 19, on work experience with Ellis, For me, this is what Harrogate is bring them into everyday use, or else and that led to her career in bridal and about. Not just product, but people. I they too will become landfill sooner than ultimately the launch of her very own love Lucy from Kenneth Winston and expected. label. And that is why Harrogate isn’t Dando, Kirsty from Maggie Sottero is More thought also needs to be just another bridal show for me, it is just a joy to be with, Phil Collins is a put in to the ‘sustainable’ products. embedded into so many of our psyche, People remember websites, we are living legend, and if you met Raveem from Lore, you will be buzzing with his we are inspired, thrive and encouraged pre-programmed it seems to Google enthusiasm as it’s infectious! (I thought by it. I met daughters who are taking or Bing everything, so companies are over the family business, who came Lore’s catwalk show was electric, and easily searched for and found within to Harrogate as children, and are now the dresses just came alive in front of seconds, and secure areas for pricelists there as buyers, and that just proves your eyes. I feel it may be a very good for stockists are so easy to add to a site. that this circle of life exists, even in year for your shop if you took on Lore, Zero waste, easily updateable, and you bridal. We grow and adapt. Shops do and if you haven’t, and there is still can track who has visited. The thought money in the pot for a new label, check close, but new ones emerge, others is there with some of these promotional evolve, and the same enthusiasm them out, or make a note in your diary ideas, but make sure it sends the right carries us all through. to see them in London in the Spring.) message when it comes to being sustainable. Taking responsibility And the product… The changes we make will help to On that note, I was heartened to see It was great to See Anna Hare ensure future generations of designers, less waste at Harrogate. We don’t need suppliers, retailers and customers are exhibiting. Full disclosure here: Anna mountains of paper brochures; we have able to enjoy all that we do now. We and I have shared a jacuzzi and a instant access to the internet. A good massage, but that doesn’t influence all want to leave a mark, a little legacy me when it comes to being taken with website to promote a good product, of our time here, but let’s do it without an eye-catching stand and a good Olympia Sposa, and given how busy leaving a dirty stain on the planet! the stand was, I think many others were rep is all we really need to engage. Buying and selling pretty things Glossy straight to landfill, unable-toimpressed too. Harrogate was perfect should not create an ugly imprint on recycle literature is not sustainable or for their UK launch, and Anna told me environment. understands that being a rep is more than just selling, it is about building relationships, and cups of tea over a Jaffa cake.

that there “was a real buzz around the stand, with stores loving the chic, clean styles”. The collection is fresh and different, but very commercial, with a real European vibe. Unique Italian fabrics and an incredible cut and fit, combined with limitless pattern changes and an amazing price tag made “this a real no brainer for buyers” as Anna points out: and it is, because we as buyers want to give our customers more choice, without confusing them. One new label not only caught my

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HAPPY HARROGATE Next year will be the 40th anniversary of the Harrogate Bridal Show. Wendy Adams was there from the start, organising and building what would become one of the most important and internationally-respected bridal industry trade events

n 1983, six brands got together and showed their collections to UK retailers at the St George Hotel, directly opposite where today’s megaforce of trade show is held. This September, at the first show since the pandemic brought everything to a halt, including, of course, weddings themselves, 300 brands vied for attention, 60 of which were new to the market, a signal, says Wendy Adams, that things are moving forward once again, and that momentum is gathering. Interestingly, the dedicated designer arena attracted labels that traditionally create a single collection a year but want, it seems, to take every opportunity to reach out to existing and new stockists, and

see Harrogate as the ideal playing field. The environment, of course, is different to that of White Gallery which, while incorporated into London Bridal Fashion Week, is a show within a show, with its own individual personality and audience looking for the very best names. However, Harrogate September saw more designers this year than ever before, and White Gallery London is already 70% full for 2023, with some fabulous designers on board. One of the big attractions at Harrogate is the advisory clinics programme where retailers make appointments to see and question established experts about everything from staff training to instore display,

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to social media. But without question, the big formal catwalk shows are a huge pull, and not just for the sheer theatrics but for the opportunity to see gowns on stage, moving and swaying and creating impact. “We start to sell scenes in the show year to year, so this year’s participants are already booking for Harrogate 23,” explains Wendy. “The production team is pencilled in and we start to consider the set for the new season about six months ahead. Decisions about the models and the music take place some three months prior to the show, but the fittings and rehearsals can only take place once we are onsite, and that’s just two days before we open.” Approximately 100 dresses take

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to the catwalk over the three days of Harrogate and the organisers reckon some 70% of show visitors will make a point of attending one of the performances. One hears that a collection, or a specific gown on the catwalk, encourages buyers to investigate further and visit specific stands to see an entire collection that they might otherwise have missed. All in all, those catwalk shows are not only brand promotion, but also serve to inspire the audience. While Ocean Media would not give us specific attendance figures, they have said that the visitor flow was 4% up on the previous year. According to some exhibitors we spoke to, the reduced number of overseas buyers was noticeable, but, of course, that is easy to understand with the changes Brexit has wrought to importing and exporting, deliveries and duties. According to Wendy, some brands appear to have come up with different

decrease on overseas buyers. Some of the new brands did really well but then if you are starting from zero stockists it’s always going to be good. The majority of our exhibitors reported much better sales than last year, but still think buyers are cautious with too much in the media about rising costs putting everyone off!” And what about the Awards? “They went really well – we moved to The Majestic as we were concerned initially about numbers, but tickets were sold out in just two weeks! It was a great evening.” And what plans are in place for next spring in London, and September Harrogate? “Dates for Bridal Week London solutions to work around the added and White Gallery at Excel are 19-21 costs. “It’s definitely affecting some but not others,” she said. “We still have March. Bridal Week Harrogate, 10-12 September, will be at its usual home a considerable number of overseas of the Convention Centre,” Wendy brands exhibiting with us, and I confirms. believe there has only been a small

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MY TIME...LOOKING, FINDING, CELEBRATING We talked to retailers after they’d spent time at Bridal Week to see how they found the return of the industry’s big show in September. Overall, Harrogate got the thumbs up THE LITTLE PEARL BRIDAL BOUTIQUE North Yorkshire Diana McMann of The Little Pearl Bridal Boutique in Pickering, North Yorkshire, not only went to buy at the show, but she also ran Business Clinics on the Sunday and Monday. “They were really well attended and retailers seemed more open to sharing and learning from each other,” she said. Diana’s team joined her on the Monday and Tuesday to start that all-important journey of product discovery. “There was a great buzz about the show this year. There seemed to be more attendees and an increased representation of luxury bridal brands. Suppliers had put lots of effort into their stands to enhance their customer experience. Diana knew what she needed from her regular suppliers – Stella York, WToo by Watters, Evie Young and Rachel Rose – and came away with exactly that, but did not buy from new brands although two, Love and Liberty and Sarah Alouche, really impressed her. Bows, detachable elements, classic silhouettes in textured fabrics were a few of the special highlights for her. An extra special highlight was winning the Customer Service of the Year title in this year’s Bridal Buyer Awards, as well as being in the finalist line up in both the Best Social Media and Best Website categories.

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BELLISSIMA WEDDINGS South Woodham Ferrers, Essex Laura Daly of Bellissima Weddings was both dazzled and disappointed at Harrogate this year. “Loved that there was a bit of drama returning to bridal,” she said.” I LOVED (note the capitals!) and bought Josephine Scott. I loved the fashion show especially Stephanie Allen’s segment because there was a bit of drama and theatre involved which has been sorely missing recently. I loved the free bag from Essense with its big nod to Dior’s book bag; so many people stopped me to ask where they could get one! I disliked seeing so many lace and tulle a-lines – they were there lurking on every corner like Bridal zombie dresses.” Currently, Laura and Michael (he stayed home to look after the dog!) carry Morilee, Julietta, Enzoani, Elysee, Etoile, Blue by Enzoani, Maggie Sottero, Essense, White and Lace, Eliza Jane Howell, Luxe and Love and Justin Alexander. Because Laura was at the show solo and therefore unable to blame anyone else of overspending or random dress purchasing, she came in on budget and says she did not struggle this time round with minimums, having budgeted for them. Special faves were Josephine Scott florals, Australian A’el Este headbands and tiaras, and Poirier’s sparkly cardi. Plainer dresses were still in abundance Laura found

but, she says, “that’s not always a good thing as they show up every flaw in every seam, and when made of cheap fabric they look – well –cheap! The cheaper ones will also cause us retailers problems when they come in not looking anything like the photo. Another thing Laura noticed was an upward trend in wholesale prices, which took some labels over their traditional threshold for her shop.

THE TEAM OF EMMA HARTLEY B R I D A LW E A R Colne, Lancashire The team of Emma Hartley Bridalwear from Colne in Lancashire, led by boss Emma, spent two “hugely successful” days at the show and found some stunning dresses. Detachable sleeves and gowns with splits were on the hit list. Stockist of Allure, Casablanca, Randy Fenoli, Nicola Anne and Luna Novias, and winner of the Team of the Year Award, Emma Hartley found their dream statement pearl headdress at Richard Designs, and loved the simple, pared down silhouettes and fabrics that were much in evidence at Harrogate. Always on the lookout for all things new and fresh, the girls were delighted to find that their existing suppliers delivered some wonderful options, so much so there was no need for them to look elsewhere. “We never really have a fixed budget but tend to stick to the minimums with our designers so that we don’t over spend,” said Emma.

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C R E AT I Q U E S B R I DA L B O U T I Q U E Southsea The Boys – Andrew and Rob of Creatiques Bridal Boutique in Southsea, went to Harrogate for the duration, plus a bit more, to shop and catch up with old friends. And they went with a fixed budget and did not overspend. “In this climate we all need to be extremely careful,” said Rob. Gaia Bridal has been added to Creatiques’ range of labels, joining Maggie Sottero, Mark Lesley, Sottero Midgely, Rebecca Ingram, Sincerity and Adore. “Gaia price points were right for us, while the message from so many other brands was all about price increases, which made buying decisions incredibly difficult.” Trends spotted that the Boys think will be big are: floral, black wedding gown, fuller gowns and 80’s design inspiration. Sadness at the show for so many was saying goodbye to Gill Harvey. The posthumous Award was absolutely appropriate.

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THE BRIDAL STUDIO Cornwall Tara Trethowan of The Bridal Studio, Cornwall, finalist in the hotly-contended Bridal Retailer of the Year, England, category in the Bridal Buyer Awards 2022, was seriously impressed with the stands of both Monreal and Rachel Allen this year. Rachel Allen is a label The Bridal Studio already carries, along with Pronovias, Nicole Milano, Wendy Makin, Wilderly, Rachel Allan, Madi Lane and Monica Loretti. Monreal and Believe by Gaia have now been added to the line up. Tara felt the show was quieter than she had anticipated, and that wholesale prices had shot up substantially. She did feel pressurised by some suppliers regarding minimums, but went to the show with a open mind regarding budgets. “There is, after all,” she says, “always a new designer you feel would be a great partner, so we go with an open mind.”

SILK AND MAPLE Suffolk Winner of the Best New Bridal Retailer, Roberta Lambert and Tegan Patmore of Silk and Maple in Sudbury, Suffolk, agreed with the others we spoke to that the stands this year were in a class of their own. “Each designer really put in an amazing effort to create beautiful and eye-catching environments,” said Robert. Currently retailers of Rebecca Ingram, Nicole Milano, L’Amour, Ellis Bridals, It Was All a Dream, Stately Soiree and Sarah Alouache, the duo did feel slightly pressurised regarding minimums , but with an ideal budget in mind, they only overspent slightly. Bolder laces, sparkle, more daring sleeves, more subtle 3-D flowers and colour are among the trends they picked out over their two-day visit. A real treat for them was meeting Sarah from Sarah Alouache for the first time – which promoted a buy of a further eight gowns.

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THE PANTILES BRIDE Tunbridge Wells Maria Musgrove-Wethey of The Pantiles Bride in Tonbridge Wells currently stocks Suzanne Neville, Sassi Holford, Jesus Peiro, Maggie Sottero and Justin Alexander’s Two Rings Private Label. At Harrogate, she added Ellis to her portfolio. “I went with the intention of not spending any money (famous last words!!) as I’d already bought in Barcelona and in the summer. Confession time – as I was so impressed with the quality and affordability of Ellis I decided to invest with them. So yes, I did overspend – but not by much as their average wholesale is around £400 and the minimum order was for eight pieces.” Even after 30 Harrogates, Maria remains always dazzled. “From the pop of prosecco corks, the buzz of bumping into bridal buddies, the Harrogate hangovers from Maggie Sottero’s 25th Birthday Bash and Awards night – how could anyone not be dazzled?! Harrogate really is the home of Bridal,” she says. Top finds? Here’s Maria’s choice: Ellis Ada (no doubt named after the founder), a classic gown with a hint of Kate Middleton. Also from Ellis, Serafina, a timeless classic with a modern twist with her statement back;

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Maggie Sottero’s Daring Darius with its thigh high split. And Watson – if I could sell a Goth gown this would be it; Charmane by Paul Zeni – the cut, detail and customisation options that Marina offers are amazing. With her collection you can buy four gowns and offer 24 because of her USP of flexibility. Says Maria of the Awards, “We were one of the finalists in a great line up for the Long Standing Retailer Award. We didn’t win but had a great night as several Get Savvy members were on our table, and also my very first coaching client, Carole Murray from Pearls and Lace Donegal (who nicknamed me Maria the Mentor), who won the award for Best Social Media campaign. So lots to celebrate!” Get Savvy Coaching, in addition to having its own stand, was involved with Bridal Buyer’s Business Advice Clinics. “The number of retailers we saw was amazing, and they shared one key question – how to get more brides through the door. This made such a huge impression on us that we are designing a free Masterclass on Booking More Appointments.”

GILL HARVEY

5/4/57 – 31/8/22

SOPHIA TOLLI A U S T R A L I A

www.sophiatolli.c om

SOPHIA TOLLI A U S T R A L I A

Introducing the stunning 2023 bridal collection from Sophia Tolli. Please visit our website at www.sophiatolli.com to view the ranges and contact denise@galaxyagency.co.uk for more information about becoming a stockist.

Were the halls of Harrogate bursting with visitors? Were retailers in buying mode? What were the positives... and also the negatives of the September event?

rom all reports, Maggie Sottero’s arena was packed for the full three days with buyers queuing from first thing in the morning to get on the stand, and to see the MS catwalk show. While the team did notice it seemed quieter elsewhere in the halls, their success story was one to be applauded. They did find stockists were cautious in their buying decisions but said: “The economic challenges of the supply chain, coupled with the impending loom of a recession did make people a little more conservative and conscientious in their investments. That said, there’s also the balance of what the designer is bringing to market with their new collections and having a proper offering for brides. Brides are searching for the latest, hot-off-the-runway gowns from Maggie, and we ultimately want to set the brides up for the best chance of

success in finding their dream dress.” Maggie’s new collections were met with rave reviews – something we heard from one buyer after the other. There was plenty of colour throughout the ranges and black – is that going to be the next white? And the pandemic, has that had an effect overall on business for the multi-award-winning house? “Overall, the bridal industry, as in any other trade, has been impacted post-pandemic — from the fabric and lace suppliers to the production at the factory level to shipping and customs accessibility. All of it has expanded timelines and increased costs. It’s all about understanding the new norm of business and being strategic in our approach. We support each boutique through personalised trainings to better equip them in their efforts to make brides’ dreams reality.”

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Mascara was another busy stand throughout the show, but felt the lack of overseas buyers was noticeable, although understandable. According to boss Danny Saul, the more established retailers were not particularly cautious in their buying – they were there to shop and wanted the best – while smaller shops and newer retailers did express concern. Mascara produces three collections a year but is one of those companies that believes a once-a-year show would be right for the industry, benefitting suppliers and their stockists. Where would that be, given a choice? “Harrogate”. Sarah of Ivory & Co says: “We didn’t think it could be as busy as last year when it was the first show after the pandemic… but this year our stand was even busier, which was a bit

MASCARA

Maggie Sottero

What the exhibitors say

Ivory & Co

Richard Designs JuPon

Rainbow Club of a surprise to us. Stores that had already bought from our dress collection at White Gallery in March came back to order more dresses from the collection, and accessory sales were huge with shops generally placing large orders for lots of different designs.” Interestingly, Ivory & Co brings out a dress collection every two years as feedback from its stockists has supported a much longer selling cycle. “Shops prefer this to a system where they receive samples of the styles they’ve invested in a short time before a new collection is out ,” says Sarah, who also continues to supply a large number of retailers from overseas, and has adjusted shipping practices to make this easier. At Harrogate, Ivory & Co launched a new fashion-forward collection of headpieces and jewellery, focusing

on oversized pearls or pearl-only pieces, and positioned to be pricecompetitive. “Our range of speciality pieces – high end tiaras and statement jewellery – was still as popular as ever but feedback from stores was that they loved that they can finally offer great quality products at a lower price point as well.” When it came to gowns, it was the whimsical, romantic styles in boho blush and champagne colours that proved to be first choice. “New shops loved that we give access to our dropbox gallery of still life images, as well as inspirational pictures from our amazing photoshoots abroad… in order to make it easy for them to create brilliant and eyecatching content. And one show vs two? “Having done all the White Gallery / London Bridal events since the first show and having

attended Harrogate for many, many years, we can honestly say that these are very different events and that we see entirely different customers. Whilst a few attend both events, it’s our experience that we mainly see Southern based-shops in London and northern-based shops in Harrogate, and from conversations with stores they’ve communicated to us that if their “local” show was to close they simply wouldn’t travel that distance to the other surviving show.” Monday was the busiest day for Richard Designs, topping even the success of the opening day of the show, despite seeing few overseas visitors. “We never impose minimum orders so our customers don’t need to worry about negotiating terms with us,” says the company’s Charlotte Brookes. “Retailers were very open and

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willing to make an order on the day and careful to choose the right product for their store, but we found that they really committed to the collections and bought in deeply, ready for a busy 2023 season. “Our statement veils and headpieces were the most popular accessories, with buyers looking for something a little different that they can style with pared-back gowns. The soft, feminine styling of our bridal gowns was very well received, and our satin ballgown bridesmaid dresses were super popular. Our mother of the bride collection was picked up by lots of new stores, as they are looking for a lowcommitment collection to add to their offering for 2023.” According to Gary Wilkins at Jupon, this Harrogate was not as busy as expected, and the halls seem very quiet for “vast periods of time”. Monday was the busiest day on the stand with serious buying taking

Jupon

Richard Designs

COLOUR COUNTS Shades of blush are still one of the big trends

reports, while others, he says “were more specific about backing particular styles in a range of sizes, that they were confident would sell well or have previously been bestsellers for them. Overall, they are cautiously optimistic – optimistic about the bridal year ahead, cautious over the economic outlook.” And sandals, pearls, block heels, wide fit and shoe clips are currently stepping out into the limelight. What gives Rainbow the edge is its stock availability and delivery timescales –the company offers an instock policy on all veils and bestselling shoes, along with one-to-two working day delivery. The company also Rainbow Club reported an increase in invests heavily in aspirational lifestyle orders – footwear was 3% up on last marketing and produces all the year, while veils, handbags and clips came in at +64%. At Harrogate, Sunday necessary visual support to its retailers. While Rainbow Club would like to seemed to be busy with browsers, who see one show a year, they say it would then returned to place their orders on be hard to suggest the perfect location. the Monday and Tuesday. “As an accessory company we’re happy “Some placed large orders across to follow the big bridal brands and different styles and sizes to offer where the demand and high footfall variety in their shop,” Richard Marsh place, and ‘style’ was the in-demand factor. While Gary feels there are more challenges ahead for the industry, which will make change a vital factor, he does believe that the market will continue to be strong. Jupon shows at the two key events, London and Harrogate, and also many of the smaller shows. “Harrogate has to be the vibe,” he says. New products with a big future include bestsellers – faux fur jackets in bridal white and also in multi colours, extra-long veils with intricate edgings, petticoats and separates.

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A HEAD START Pearls are the key statement-makers at the moment

Q&A

WITH NICOLA BALL OF HALO & CO Were you as busy/busier than expected? Even though we felt the show was quieter (which was to be expected with the national mourning and cost of living crisis), serious buyers and good retailers made their way to see our new collection. We have a network of dedicated, loyal stockists who know we can help them add value to their bottom line. So it is in their interest to come and buy from the new collection. Did you find retailers were cautious in their buying? Yes, as retailers face the challenge of the current trading conditions, stores were looking for new exciting looks and products that allow them to get healthy mark ups. Most of the stores we talked to said they weren’t looking at taking on new labels or lines but had decided to stick with the brands they currently work with. Did you receive many questions about minimums? Most orders were placed by existing retailers who already purchase Halo & Co so it wasn’t a conversation we

had. Many of our customers said they struggled to buy the dress labels that had big minimums and welcomed brands that were working with them on staggering deliveries or lowering amounts from each collection. Where is your collection made and how many collections do you produce a year? All our products are made in the UK from start to finish in our own workshop. We produce two bridal collections a year. Did you see many overseas buyers and were they concerned about buying from the UK since Brexit? The show didn’t pull in many overseas stores from Europe or other markets that we saw. We have many overseas stockists who said they were not visiting the show. Most customers we saw were from UK. What was most in demand – stylewise, colour-wise, price-wise? Pearls were very popular, and the most important point retailers mentioned was that they want products which are of great quality and worth the investment. We had a number of budget price points through the collection but to be honest stores wanted more couture pieces. Our stockists know brides are still looking for that British-made quality

product and will pay a premium for it. Do you think that ultimately we should be moving to a once-a-year event as they do in every other country and if so, where should that be – London or Harrogate? The UK is quite a small market in the number of retailers, especially when you factor in boutiques wanting area or brand exclusivity, so we need a show to bring in more international buyers to make it profitable and sustainable for the suppliers showing. I don’t think overseas buyers would travel twice to the UK for two shows; maybe they would for one if the show can offer something different that they can’t get from other markets. Location is really difficult. Harrogate is loved by UK buyers, it’s sociable, easy to drive to, cost-effective for accommodation so stores can bring their full team. But on the other hand, it is harder to get to for international buyers. London is expensive and Excel is difficult to get to for many UK stores based in the North. All these questions have been argued over the past decade by the industry. I don’t know what the answer is but ultimately if suppliers don’t generate enough money they won’t continue to show. If the show just brings in new labels and sells more stands it doesn’t fix any of the underlying issues.

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NE W YOR K

DESSY GROUP E ST. 1 9 3 9

UK distribution of The Dessy Group is now in the capable hands of Ruth Larkin. Many of you will know Ruth from her highly successful company Larkin Bridal Ltd which she established ten years ago. The business distributes across the globe in 32 countries. All UK operations for The Dessy Group will now be handled by Ruth so both existing stockists and new enquiries can contact her at ruth@dessy.com or 0845 838 1041. Visit us at London Bridal Fashion Week Stand #C46

Consumer web site: www.dessy.co.uk | Wholesale portal: www.retailer-response.com

ANGELA BIANCA Style: 1081

Halter-neck, low-back jumpsuit in soft crepe with delicate appliqués on the waist. RRP £495 Rob Bevington +44 (0)7852 999079 monicaloretti@outlook.com www.angelabianca.com

These are the ones In our last issue we gathered together the gowns that designers reckoned would be the bestsellers in their new collections. This time round, we’ve got the ones that have proved to be the winners

ELLIS BRIDALS Style: Mabel

From the Heirloom Collection, Mikado and lace gown, with lace panelling on skirt and statement detachable bow. RRP £1,739 +44 (0)20 8888 8833 info@studioellis.co.uk www.ellisbridals.co.uk

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FREDA BENNET

JESUS PEIRO

Style: Linden

Style: 2319

A gown to twirl in. Fabulous embossed cloqué, with corset top and shoulder-tie straps. RRP £1,575

A ravishing number, off-the-shoulder top in stretch crepe, split skirt and bow, in off-white brocade. RRP £2,950

+44 (0)1322 537741 hello@fredbennet.co.uk www.fredabennet.co.uk

+353 876 487531 marionmathews@me.com www.jesuspeiro.com

MIKAELLA

SYDNEY’S CLOSET

WILLOWBY

Crêpe fit and flare gown with V-neckline and butterfly sleeves. Keyhole back with button closure at top of neckline. RRP £1,945

Textured glitter tulle under lace appliqués, plus size gown with detachable overskirt, designed for real brides. POA

Softly softly, with flowing fabrics, a high split multi-layered skirt, and off-the-shoulder floaty sleeves. RRP £2,100

+44 (0)7881 630891 marie@palomablanca.com www.mikaellabridal.com

+44 (0)7455 878578 uk@sydneyswholesale.com www.sydneyscloset.com

+44 (0)1527 832373 kelly-anne.weaver@watters.com www.watters.com

Style: M2431

Style: Jolene

Style: Persephone

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MAGGIE SOTTERO Style: Watson

A-line tulle gown with sequinned embroidery, a velvet belt and satin spaghetti straps. POA jenny.williams@maggiesottero.com www.maggiesottero.com

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MILLA NOVA

EDDY K

Ruched plain satin gown, with a wide bardot neckline, corset back and thigh split. Classic design with a modern edge. RRP £1,449 (no duty payable).

Champagne tulle A-line gown with sequined ivory lace, dust satin lining, off-the-shoulder cap sleeves, unlined bodice. POA

Style: Adora

Style: Azaria

+44 (0)1603 334554 anna@millanova.co.uk / nigel@millanova.co.uk www.millanova.com

Stefano Bruzzese +39 0221 33574 ste@eddyk.com

MORILEE

RONALD JOYCE

KENNETH WINSTON

Style: Karmen

Style: 19868

Tulle, sequin tulle and Chantilly lace with pearl and crystal encrusted bodice with spaghetti straps. RRP £1,720

From the beautiful Kensington Collection, this tulle and lace appliqué ballgown has a plunging off-the-shoulder neckline. RRP £1,720

This beauty features embroidered all-over lace with 3D floral accents and sparkle tulle. Off-the-shoulder cap sleeves. RRP £2,1085

+44 (0)1636 593 489 ukmarketing@morilee.com ukmarketing@morilee.com

+44 (0)1636 593 489 enquiries@ronaldjoyce.com www.ronaldjoyce.com

+44 (0)1765 530282 contact@privatelabelbyg.com www.kennethwinston.com

Style: Jacqueline

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SOTTERO AND MIDGLEY Style: Fabienne

Fit and flare off-the-shoulder gown in Mikado with beaded cap sleeves, lined with shapewear for support, covered buttons down the train. POA jenny.williams@maggiesottero.com www.maggiesottero.com

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PALOMA BLANCA

CHIC NOSTALGIA

Crêpe fit and flare gown with sleeveless draped bodice with plunging neckline and crêpe belt at the waist. RRP £1,950

A-Line featuring 3D floral motifs and embroidery, floaty sleeves and optional corset closure. This one has featured on every order taken. RRP £2,499, inc freight and duty

Style: Juno

Style: P5025

+44 (0)7881 630891 marie@palomablanca.com www.palomablanca.com

WONA CONCEPT Style: Cassandra

+44 (0)1603 334554 anna@chicnostalgia.co.uk / nigel@chicnostalgia.co.uk www.chicnostalgiabridal.com

KELSEY ROSE Style: Anja

From this Ukraine company, a body-hugging glossy satin gown with corset top, £1,175. Swirling cape with shoulder bows. £910.

Tulle and lace gown with stunning back line from the Daydreamer Collection. Available in ivory/ivory and also mocha/ivory. RRP £899.

+380 68 350 4479 marketing@wonaconcept.com www.wonaconcept.com

+44 (0)208 888 8833 info@studioellis.co.uk www.kelseyroswomwonae.co.uk

OLYMPIA SPOSA Style: OLY-4

Fitted stretch Italian crêpe one shoulder gown with ruffle detail on the shoulder and a peplum on the waist. RRP £1,399. +44 (0)1603 334554 anna@alysa.co.uk / nigel@alysa.co.uk www.olympiasposa.com

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was a repetition in dress styles and increased costs, unreflective of quality. An obvious change in industry trends was also apparent through the downsizing of accessories and add ons offered by designers, questioning the impact of fast fashion and the increase of online shopping within this part of the bridal industry. The catwalk show is one of the highlights of the event, with the Royal Hall boasting a theatrical setting for a host of world-renowned brands. It was amazing to witness a full theatre again and the atmosphere was incredible. The standout moment came with Rachel Allan’s Swan Lake excerpt. In terms of individual designer catwalk shows, Maggie Sottero paved the way with their inclusivity and diversity of models, something of which we hope to see more of in the future from other designers. We also saw Maggie Sottero celebrate their 25th anniversary with an exclusive stockists’ event held on the Sunday evening, championing their The RBA prosecco meet-&-greet own successes, and showing their reception was very well attended on both evenings before the show closed, appreciation to each of their retailers. The 2022 Bridal Buyer Awards and it was wonderful to catch up with our existing members and meet those was hosted in the Majestic hotel. Downsized from the previous looking to find out more about what year, there was an apparent the RBA has to offer. Welcome to our underestimation of appetite for the new members, we look forward to event, with the venue unable to house some exciting developments for the all who wanted to attend. The blackAssociation in 2023. The show hosted over 300 big name tie evening boasted a supportive upbeat atmosphere, which committee brands and there was a very strong members enjoyed. The RBA would representation of new designers like to congratulate again all award from Ukraine and Eastern Europe, winners from the evening on their with unique takes and inspiration well-deserved recognition. for the modern-day bride. RBA To summarise, the RBA found this members were offered stockist year’s Bridal Week a successful and flexibility with design changes and fabric choices along with great prices, an enjoyable experience and we look forward to the new innovations and and opportunity for increased profit progressions 2023 holds in store for margins. New labels apart, however, the designers and forthcoming events. our members felt elsewhere there

RBA news Melanie Storer, RBA executive committee member and co-owner of Wedding Belles of Four Oaks, reviews Bridal Week Harrogate

he industry returned to the #homeofbridal on 11 September, for Bridal Week, which saw the bridal community regaining its stride in the post pandemic era, with a buzz of designer and retailer conversations filling the stands. The shift in energy was especially seen through the growing interest and applications for RBA membership, highlighting the importance of peer-to-peer support and unity that has emerged from the trials of previous years. Ocean Media ensured there were opportunities to engage with fellow friends throughout the show by providing complimentary Champagne and gin bars while RBA members experienced a VIP exclusive oasis, with a lunch of sandwiches and cakes, hot beverages and wine.

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ENZOANI.COM

Letter from America Peter Grimes of VOWS magazine is seeing if not light at the end of the tunnel, then at least glow for bridalwear retailers

his past nearly year-long period of political strife, economic uncertainty and social upheaval has added considerable stresses to US bridesto-be… as it has for UK brides clearly facing similar circumstances and worries. And as for both countries, this turmoil will not soon end, certainly not by the end of an election cycle, nor prior to the beginning of the 2023 bridal buying season. Boutique owners (and their employees) are feeling the impact of this added stress and worry, both personally and in fulfilling or exceeding the demands of their over-stressed-out brides. Adding weight to these worries is the near non-stop financial predictions by assorted banks, brokers and government agencies predicting the direst of possibilities, combined with recent surveys

indicating that a high percentage of US and UK consumers are extremely worried about the possibility of a recession. While worst case scenarios may be accurate for specific segments of the economy, I don’t believe that is the case for bridal retail… not that I think bridal is recession proof, but because historical cycles have shown that bridal is recession resistant. In the short term we may see a softening of the retail “sweet spot” price point, and a possible reduction of the number of participants in the wedding party, but I don’t anticipate a noticeable decline in the number of weddings in 2023-2024. Two reasons for this view: 1. An admittedly optimistic review of wedding and marriage data for the Great Recession years of 2007-2009, considered the most significant downturn in the US economy since

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the Great Depression, which is often cited as the most catastrophic economic event of the 20th century. A review of those numbers and years reveals small percentage declines in the number of weddings during that two-year period. Specifically, 2007 recorded 2.2 million weddings; 2008 showed a 1.8% decline in the number of weddings to 2.16 million; 2009 declined an additional 3.7% to 2.08 million, and 2010 showed an increase in weddings to 2.1 million. 2. The resilient nature of bridal retail, which has adapted to (and many times lead) a changing consumer throughout its history. In more recent terms, boutiques proved their resilience as they adjusted, adapted and pivoted during the COVID years, emerging from those near total shut downs stronger and more consumer centric.

Reema Cra

Kelly Faetanini

CREATING A STIR AT THE NEW YORK SHOWS

Romona Keveza Legends

Boutiques’ ability to create and provide a safe haven, a sanctuary from the cries, the rabble and the drama that overwhelms and is so prevalent in our brides’ everyday lives is exactly what that bride needs and longs for: a special experience for which she is willing to pay, and one that she can revel in telling others about. The recent 2023 Predictions report from market research company Forrester Research includes a conclusion that supports my point: “Unlike previous years, 2023 will be a jumble of mixed signals, reflecting a unique environment characterized by opposing forces: exuberance as the pandemic wanes, tempered by caution in the face of economic turbulence. In a nutshell, don’t expect consumers to be shy about spending in 2023. But expect them to be far pickier — seeking out fewer, richer experiences that blend the digital fluidity of the pandemic with the familiarity and intimacy of the times that came before.” So therein is the challenge for US and UK boutiques: to continue to evaluate and improve each contact point with their brides, across all platforms; continue to ‘raise the bar’ of customer service and of the in-store experience; continue to train an engaged work force that is product knowlegable and customer sensitive… and to ramp up marketing and advertising programmes that educate and entertain their brides. And a key aspect of this approach… an attitude of challenge, not fear. For as Sam Walton, founder of Wal-Mart reportedly said when asked about his thoughts about a recession: “I thought about it and decided not to participate.”

Rita Vinieris

This coming period of economic uncertainty, while potentially difficult and stressful, will rank as a distant second to that which bridal retail has already survived… and succeeded.

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Contemporary, Opulent and breathtaking - The new 2023 collection from Jennifer Wren Bridal offers your brides unique glamour on their big day. Please contact kerry@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information on becoming a stockist.

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

In conversation with…

The Bridal Collective Tell us about the design talents behind your labels. The design team behind Enzoani’s collections and the brand new PEN. LIV is led by award-winning Artistic Director Kang Chun Lin, a graduate of the London College of Fashion, who brings an avant-garde inspiration to a timeless design aesthetic. Kang Chun has been designing bridal gowns for over 20 years, and he leads a team that continuously strive to improve and expand on their prior work and accomplishments, cementing Enzoani’s standout status and revered reputation in the world of bridal. Christopher Russell and Mark Russell joined the company as Artistic Directors of the ÉLYSÉE division in February 2020. They are well-known for their exceptional ability to create sumptuous and opulent gowns reminiscent of the golden age of European design. Chris and Mark have more than 15 years of experience at some of the world’s leading bridal and eveningwear houses, and share an influential design aesthetic that has

resonated with brides around the world. They spend several months in Paris each year drawing inspiration from the city’s rich history of decorative arts and design, as well as the latest trends in modern fashion. Where have you chosen to show the portfolio this season? This year was the selling season we had all been waiting for as we were thrilled to be showcasing the brand new 2023 collections face-to-face again! The collections were met with great enthusiasm at London Bridal Week, Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week and Interbride, not forgetting the Bridal Collective UK launch event held at the beautiful Birmingham Botanical Gardens, and multiple EU pop-up events around Germany and the Netherlands. We were fortunate enough to have Mary Nguyen join us on our stand at London, Barcelona and Düsseldorf, and for many of our retailers and recently extended platinum partners the opportunity to be able to speak directly with the company’s CEO

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ÉLYSÉE ÉTOILE, ARAMIS

With three brands – Enzoani, PEN.LIV and ÉLYSÉE – in the portfolio and sub collections within Enzoani and ÉLYSÉE, this is a house that gets bigger and better each season. We caught up with sales supremo, Mark Stevens

was a real bonus. It truly has been an exciting and successful year for trade shows and events! Are you doing one collection a year for each brand? Yes, each of the Bridal Collective lines releases one collection per year. We have always maintained that a once-a-year collection is beneficial to our retailers, especially after the past two seasons when they have had to endure pressures the likes of which we have never experienced before. In the UK, we will have a full launch of all collections at our private event, which is usually staged in the late spring, in early May time.

ÉLYSÉE ATELIER, DEMETER OVERSKIRT ENZOANI, SUMMER Your key fabrics going forward, and embellishments? There is no compromise when it comes to quality and construction. Bridal Collective sources the highest-grade fabrics and Swarovski crystals, and every wedding gown we produce is custom-designed, custom-made and skilfully handbeaded – most take several hundred hours to create. There has been a wonderful reaction to the floral laces used in the 2023 Enzoani collections. Summer is proving to be a standout this season for botanical lace sprinkled with 3D floral motifs.

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Are ‘adaptables’ still big – is it something brides themelves are asking for, or retailers are initiating that conversation? Yes, we are still being asked for adaptable gowns, and of course we listen and provide. A classic example of the adaptability of the Elysée creative team is Demeter. Named after the Greek goddess of the harvest, Demeter is all about the regal glamour! This fully-beaded, sequinned Chantilly lace mermaid dress features a classic illusion lace bodice with a modern, curved neckline and exposed boning details. This sparkling beauty has a sexy super-high slit, signature double sculpted hem, and is paired with a dramatic detachable overskirt that

ENZOANI, SIERRA

ÉLYSÉE ATELIER, DEMETER What are you finding your stockists are asking for most? Lace is still at the forefront of retailer’s minds, but slowly we are seeing a calling for more traditional-styled gowns such as Simplicity and Sierra from Enzoani. Whilst Aramis and Marilyn from the Étoile collection are proving to be very popular.

Europe, the United Kingdom and South Africa, along with dedicated retail locations in over 60 countries. We are proud that our collections are available to brides in over 200 What do you find is your best way to recommended retailers. reach brides themselves? Your recommended price range? The route to reaching brides is Bridal Collective has collections different for everyone. The first tool retailing from £1,335 in the LOVE newly-engaged brides reach for is social media or a quick Google search. collection to £6,765 in ÉlYSÉE ATELIER. So, you can see, here at Social media is key for brides-to-be Bridal Collective we aim to cover most on their wedding journey. Providing market segments for our engaging content for the perfect retailers. Pinterest board or eye-catching Instagram reels is vital. Are you finding we are over the Partnering with knowledgeable, challenging times? trusted retailers is also key as We truly hope so. Bridal Collective their reputation for providing an weathered the Covid storm extremely unforgettable experience will speak well – any issues that we experienced volumes to brides-to-be. were a direct impact of external providers caught up in the global How many stockists do you have crisis that is still hindering everyone. worldwide? Retailers and Manufacturers still Each season, the Bridal Collective face many challenges; it’s the Bridal continues to expand with the aid Collective’s aim to help our partners of growing consumer and media as much as possible until we can all support, achieving a strong national truly say that all global challenges are and global presence with offices behind us all. established in the United States, highlights the curves while narrowing the waistline for a figure flattering ballgown look. The overskirt also comes with pockets!

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Big conversations with Trader

Questions Questions... Post Harrogate, James Waddington of Romantica comes up with the answers First, a background update… brands now in the portfolio? Our most popular brands are Romantica Bride, Sophia Tolli, Martin Thornburg, Pure Bridal and Jennifer Wren, with each of the collections offering a designer selection of gowns to match a wide variety of tastes and budgets. We introduce around 24 newly designed gowns per season into each collection in order to give our boutiques the opportunity to fill the gaps on their rails and answer the ever changing needs of their brides. We have had a strong year in both sample and repeat sales, with the majority of our stockists across Europe extremely satisfied with sales. Venues are fully booked throughout 2023 and beyond so we are confident we can look forward to a year full of celebration – for our stockists, and for our brides and their partners. Where do you manufacture? Our collections are made all across the globe, from China to England to Myanmar and Vietnam, and we are currently looking at other

options further afield; we always have our finger on the pulse for the best places to have our gorgeous designs crafted. Sourcing the finest seamstresses, pattern cutters, embellishers and materials is one of the biggest challenges in what we do, constantly striving to improve our product, service and price.

Minimums – have to ask the question – have you been challenged by retailers on this issue? It’s always a topic brought up by new retailers, which is hardly surprising when some of the biggest brands in the industry are asking for such Harrogate – was it good for you? large amounts of rail space within Having spoken to all of our stores boutiques. As a family business, we over the months and weeks leading have always prided ourselves on up to the event, we were delighted working with our stores and want them with the number of appointments made to enjoy the catwalk shows and to buy dresses because they want to, and not because we told them they meet the designers. needed to in order to keep the brand. That said, I certainly underestimated how many new stores Did you see many overseas who had seen our images in the buyers? Has Brexit changed sales magazines and on our social opportunities for you? What channels and decided to come about the business effects of the along to look at investing in the pandemic? product. What a great surprise! We saw a number of overseas buyers, And most retailers were buying at but Brexit hasn’t come without its pre-pandemic levels, confident that venues are fully booked for next year challenges. We have worked hard to establish a partnership with a and beyond and that brides will be looking to shop for their gowns in the distribution hub for our brands based out of Southern Ireland, saving our forthcoming months.

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European partners the concerns over Customs, Duty and VAT, showing our commitment to our European customers – many of whom my father started working with over 20 years ago! We continue to monitor the ever changing situation, always putting our customers first. With regard to the pandemic, all industries have increased the speed of evolution and I don’t think bridal is any different. From having to adapt to differing lead times, to opening new facilities and holding increased levels of stock, we are all having to develop, and only those willing to rise to the challenge will be answering the needs of their brides in 2023 and beyond. And for 2023, what’s in demand? Plain satins and crepes with great levels of construction and interesting details are definitely still key and were our bestsellers across the price points in Harrogate. When it comes to lace, we are doing well with those with delicate embroidery that are perfect

Bestseller at Harrogate JENNIFER WREN STYLE: JW220312 RRP: £1,599

Bestseller at Harrogate PURE STYLE: PB203 RRP £899

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Bestseller at Harrogate ROMANTICA STYLE: LYANNA RRP: £1,199

Bestseller at Harrogate SILHOUETTE STYLE: KIRRA-BELLE RRP: £1,799

with feminine and floaty ethereal designs, ideal for relaxed weddings at home and abroad. When it comes to adaptables, we believe that the majority of brides want to step into a dress that makes them feel like a princess from the moment they try it on, which is why we only have a small selection of adaptable gowns in the portfolio. But we do have gowns that offer versatility, with different back options, lengths, sleeves, veils and overskirts to help make the gown exactly what the bride is looking for. How many stockists do you have and overall, which are the most popular sizes and price ranges? We have around 300 stockists in the UK, with another 200 worldwide, the majority of which are in Europe. We are the European distributor for the Mon Cheri group, which boasts a large number of stockists in the US, Canada, Australia and beyond! While our most often re-ordered sizes are 14 and 16, we see orders from right across our size range. Boutiques are providing a broad selection of gowns to suit a range of brides with different shapes and sizes.

Bestseller at Harrogate SOPHIA TOLLI STYLE: Y22270 RRP: £1,235

Bestseller at Harrogate MARTIN THORNBURG STYLE: MT1400 RRP: £2,650

Your exhibiting plans, moving forward – where can we catch the newest collections launching in 2023? We will be showing our portfolio at Bridal Week London and European Bridal Week in Essen and, of course, at Harrogate in September. However, we are constantly talking to our customers to make sure we are presenting the collections to them in the best and most convenient locations. Watch this space! Twice a year shows definitely have benefits, allowing designers and boutiques alike to refresh their rails

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more often to adapt to the changing fashions and their brides’ needs. It also allows retailers to spread their investment in stock throughout the year and have new stock coming in more often to shout about on socials. Despite that, one collection a year makes sense when there is one major wedding season, and does seem to be the way a number of brands have gone. Romantic of Devon +44 1823 674412 sales@romanticaofdevon.co.uk romanticaofdevon.co.uk

And the winners are… Congratulations to every finalist in every category in this year’s Bridal Buyer Awards... to us you are all winners Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – England The Aisle

Customer Service of the Year The Little Pearl Bridal Boutique

Bridal Accessories Supplier of the Year Ivory & Co

Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Ireland Alice May Bridal

Website of the Year Emily Bridalwear

Bridesmaid Supplier of the Year Onlyway

Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Scotland Bijoux Bridal Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Wales Wynter Isabelle Bridal New Retailer of the Year Silk & Maple Longstanding Retailer of the Year Blackburn Bridal

In-Store Design of the Year Sisters of Grace

Customer Service of the Year Richard Designs

Team of the Year Emma Hartley Bridalwear Best Use of Social Media Pearls & Lace Bridalwear Supplier of the Year Maggie Sottero Designs Party and Prom Supplier of the Year Veni Infantino

Agent of the Year Tim Dunbar of Allure Bridals Wedding Dress of the Year Maggie Sottero Designs, Harlem The British Design Talent Award Eliza Jane Howell

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BRIDESPEAK We asked a number of brides whether they were looking to keep their wedding budgets down, and what they were prepared to economise on in this current environment of uncertainty. “Look, I am one of the lucky ones with no money worries to speak of. My concern rather is that friends and family feel I am ‘showing off’ if we have a big wedding with all the trimmings. So, we’re going away, to the sun and beach, and taking 20 people with us. We have rented two large villas on the same resort, and booked private chefs to do the honours for a couple of days. I have bought three outfits, one for each day, including a floaty boho number that I love. Yes, we are probably spending as much as we would do on a big event at home, but this way it won’t be noticeable except, perhaps, to those very close to us who will share the sunshine.” Jasmine and Dave

“My dad offered to lend me and my partner the money to go ahead with the wedding, which is great. But we discussed it and won’t accept it, and have to worry about paying him back when everything is so uncertain right now. We don’t have job security and our outgoings are racing up. So, I think we will end up with a party at home after vows at the local registry office. But, we have seen the dresses we want and can afford right now (the shop specialises in pre-loved) and we will be buying those within the next month..” Jo and Sandy 58 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 2

“I tell you something, in no way am I giving up on the dream dress. Okay, I will maybe spend less than I originally budgeted, but I am going for a second appointment at one boutique and I think the consultant there knows what I want and will do everything to help me find something perfect. A couple of shops I visited tried to talk me into bigtime spending – I certainly would never go back to either of them. I know they have a business to run, but I have a life to lead.” Sallie

“I reckon, in years to come, we’ll have forgotten the food, possibly the music, and maybe lost contact with some of the guests. What I won’t forget is my dress, and how I felt in it. For that reason I am staying with my original budget of £1,600, even if we have to reduce numbers of invitees.” Jayne

“We’ve finally settled on a date. What we have to do now is work on the type of wedding we want and can afford. The idea of a grand sit-down meal and dancing has been shelved, so it will be cocktails and canapes (very nice ones) in relaxed surroundings. My fiancé was always planning to hire his suit, and to be honest I’d love to hire a dream dress but I guess it’s not possible to have real choice. What I am doing is phoning local bridal shops and seeing who has sample sales. Luckily, I am pretty much a standard size.”

Zoe

“With our wedding dates on and off and off and on, we had originally planned that when we could go ahead, there’d be no stopping us. That said, the world has changed so much in the past year or so, post covid and possibly pre recession, so we’ve had to rethink everything now prices have raced up and mortgages will get hiked up. I’m still not sure what we should do. One friend suggested we shelf the wedding completely and carry on as before and then, when times are better, start planning again. I know that is sensible, but I have dreamt of my big day for so many years. I might sound like a spoilt child but I don’t want to to be robbed of that dream.” Barbra N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 59

GE TT I N G TO KNOW...

Josephine Scott The label is new but the talent behind it is known throughout the bridal industry. Josephine Parkhill’s Debut Collection of scenestealing designs that marry old-school glamour with modern romance was one of Harrogate’s highlights. Wedding Trader talked to Josie about her way to the top Did you study design and where? Yes. I studied a four-year degree in Fashion Design and Marketing at The University of East London. Marketing was very important to me and at that time It was the only fashion degree accredited by the Institute of Marketing. What was your first job? My very first job was as a waitress in a local restaurant when I was 13. My first job in fashion was as a sales assistant at Principles, womenswear in Bristol. I loved seeing and understanding which pieces flattered and fitted best, which sold out quickest and why… and how adjusting the displays or styling them in different ways affected the sales overnight.

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Was bridal always a passion of yours? As a young dancer, performing in large theatre productions encouraged my love of glamorous gowns and crystals combined with my mother’s wardrobe of 80s power eveningwear! It was evening and wedding gowns that closed the designer fashion shows and were worn by the leading actress in the finale on stage, and by the princess in fairy-tale movies! Bridal design has changed a lot since then... boundaries of styles and venues have exploded into opportunities to create gowns that brides couldn’t have imagined before. I am very grateful I have been able to explore this passion as my career. How old where you when you joined Ellis and were you designing for them – which label? I was 19. I wanted to put the first year of my degree to use with work experience over the summer and approached Diva, an established

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evening gown boutique in Bristol. They instantly recommended I should contact Barry Waterman of John Charles. Barry offered me an interview and placement where I experienced an eye-opening summer (mostly in vans with their salesmen), learning about both the bridal and occasionwear business from Barry and Richard. I finished my placement by delivering a company marketing strategy and starting the second year of my degree with a part-time position as a design room junior tasked to rebrand all three labels. I started my professional career with Ellis as their designer / brand manager the summer I graduated, managing the design room and marketing alongside designing for all

three labels, before being promoted to Head Designer of Ellis and Kelsey Rose. I thoroughly loved my time at Ellis (almost 15 years in total), especially being part of the close team and buzz we created – there were times when it was magical and I hope to re-create this for Josephine Scott some day! What did you do when you left there? I set up my own creative agency, offering branding and design consultancy. From there, I joined WED2B as Creative Director before returning to Ellis as Head of Design and Creative. What brought on the decision to

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launch your own label – it’s a very big step? Launching Josephine Scott has always been an ambition and the time just felt right. I felt ready to use my broad knowledge and experience to offer the industry something new and fresh as a British designer. Being forced to take time off due to the pandemic created space, without pressure, where I designed purely for enjoyment. This reignited my passion and became the beginning of The Debut Collection. Do you have a backer? Financially, my husband and I are backing the brand. However, I have been surrounded by amazing people who have generously helped with

their bridal and business knowledge and time, in particular Jane Aston of Mignonette. Describe the personality of your label in one sentence? Elegantly timeless with a hint of drama and romance How many collections a year are you planning? At present, just one per year, But I may introduce a few new gowns into The Debut Collection in March to test new designs and colourways. How many pieces are in this launch collection? There are 22 gowns plus co-ordinating accessories and veils in The Debut Collection. Are you working solo or do you have a team? At present, I am mostly working solo. However, as I have a small studio in the Mignonette boutique, I do have a

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huge benefit of a small team around me with lots of expertise, on top of a freelance team I have worked with for many years. Where are you sourcing your fabrics? From across Europe and the Far East. Where are your gowns being made up? The gowns are produced in the Far East, in only premium ateliers I have previously worked with who work with leading bridal brands. Your launch fabrics, colours and style highlights? The organza rose print used on ‘Elora’

and ‘Constance’ is very on-trend yet timeless, with silk organza overlaid onto layers of ivory tulle that create full, yet lightweight silhouettes that aere utterly romantic. Shades of ivory are rich and illuminous, such as ‘Eloise’ in luscious pearl satin and enhanced with a rich, heavily embroidered lace that equally blends into the fabric whilst attracting attention. Colours are soft and reflective to compliment metals such as rose gold and platinum, with soft rose and antique silvers created through layering fabrics and encrusted laces as on ‘Astor’ and ‘Alexandra’. Josephine Scott dresses are constructed from the outside in, with

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couture-style corsetry inside every dress. Although led by design, they have been created with a commercial eye for gowns that will both enchant and sell… and with matching veils and accessories to add that perfect finishing touch.! The collection offers custom options to include split sizes, rush orders and even a full bespoke service with Josephine. Suggested retail prices range from £1,800 to £4,500, with careful consideration to reflect detailing and fabric applications brides will notice. Number of accounts you opened in Harrogate? We opened several highly respected

accounts in Harrogate. Laura Daly of Bellissima opened our very first account in the morning on the first day, which was such an exciting start. Number of accounts you are looking for? We are looking to achieve a maximum of 40 accounts across the UK and Eire, allowing time and resources to support them to build long-term successful partnerships together. Do you specify minimums, and do you give exclusivity? Yes and yes. We ask for eight pieces and offer up to 30 miles exclusivity (depending on density of the area). As

we are looking to maintain a carefully- and new stockists, I will be visiting each boutique over the next few curated number of stockists, we are focusing on their quality and location. months, training staff and meeting brides to help launch The Debut Collection. Are you planning to sell outside To the brides, social media is still of the UK? Will you be showing in key, focusing our attention on building other countries? our presence on major platforms such Yes. We already have one account as Instagram and Pinterest, alongside in the US and are looking into the potential of showcasing next year at a collaborations with stylists and local magazines. major European bridal show. How are you planning to promote the brand – and your lovely self? For new retailers, we are looking to be present at as many tradeshows as we are able to attend, alongside independent shop visits. For existing

Contact details for retailer inquiries? +44(0)1582 841095 Josephine@josephinescott.co.uk www.josephinescott.co.uk @josephinescottlondon

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Harrogate Ramblings

Peta is on form, searching the rails in Harrogate for all things new, different and worthwhile

id the second lockdown I made the painful decision to sell the 10-year-old Micra. Its gaffer-taped wing mirrors, the window that didn’t open, and the wipers that shot off when the rain was too hard finally convinced me I needed to swap cars. I had a Toyota for three months but hated it so much I lost a small fortune, and then I invested in a

Smart car, four-seater obvs, and my goodness, was I relieved because the heated seats that I kept switched on all the way up to Harrogate did my back the world of good. Interestingly, I found there were a number of exhibitors who shared back issues but they soldiered on. We swapped histories and cures, and agreed that Voltarol should be on tap at exhibitions. Once out of the car with my copilot, Sara Groom from Hitched, I had a quick walk, well, walk then sigh, and we went straight into hall Q. I got instantly swept up in the moment with all the gorgeous dresses in there. As usual, the Alan Hannah stand was busy – too busy for them to chat, so I had to settle for a wave and a nod. It was great to see the talents of Love and Liberty and Freda Bennet, and then I spotted the models from Amsale – one was wearing a great one-shoulder dress, the other a lace square neck dress that was effortlessly charming. I know I was on the hunt for something new and different but I have to give a round of applause to Jesus Peiro, and put in a swift mention for Maggie Sottero, Justin Alexander, Watters, Romantica and Allure, all of who produce wonderful

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ranges of dresses . No wonder they are all so successful, their dresses are a joy to be seen plus with the occasional edgy surprise. Black dresses made an appearance on Maggie and JLM’s stands – the latter had their sparkly collection, which was beautiful. I’ll admit a slight crush on Allison Webb designs – it was interesting – the dresses with pearls were doing very well, will this be a trend for an evening wedding? I also like the way that Ellis has taken ownership of both sides of the exhibition hall, Ellis one side and Kelsey Rose the other. Ellis showed beautifully cut, well priced modern classic dresses, with enough of a fashionable twist to appeal to the most picky princess, and opposite them with their Kelsey Rose range made for the edgier/boho bride (who doesn’t want a fuss made, but really does, who wants to look like herself only better, yes I think we all know that B2B!). I also enjoy looking at the pieces from Indiebride. I guess it says what it is, so if you’re looking for traditional maybe this is not your first stop. However, all the dresses are pretty, wearable and stylish. I also spotted a new collection by Josephine Scott, her print dresses were light and airy, and she does great sleeves, too!

WATTERS

MARTIN THORNURGH

JESUS PEIRO

ELIZA JANE HOWELL

HOUSE OF HERSEE

IVORY & CO

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

THE BOBBY PIN

JUPON

Accessories

Touch of sparkle

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XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

HALO & CO

AESLING

DEBORAH K DESIGN

modern romance

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WONA

JENNIFER WREN

CARTA BRANCA

PALOMA BLANCA

REMBO STYLING

ROMANTICA

MARTIN THORNBURGH

ELLIS BRIDALS

ALAN HANNAH

Big

lace_romance

WONA LOVE & LIBERTY

CHIC NOSTALGIA

Barking beautiful Bumped into Walter, ex David Fielden, who is working with 29Atelier, an interesting collection of separates that can be turned into dresses – a guaranteed winner for the creative bride to be. A little bit of a sidebar here… I did spend ten minutes looking at Walter’s new standard dachshund puppy who is firmly in charge after being collected post exhibition. I hope he brings him to Harrogate next time. In fact, Wendy Adams, could we invite a few dogs to the exhibition? I think a cute dog keeps most people calm. I digress. Back to my search for the new and easy-to-wear, a very short dress on a stand caught my eye and beckoned me over and when I got there, I discovered it was from Milla Nova. I’d seen it on Instagram and to my great joy I discovered Alysa UK was handling the collection. I met Nigel Bailey, who is selling Chic Nostalgia, Olympia Sposa and Malee, too (so a bit of a one stop shop here!). Milla Nova straight out of Ukraine was doing a roaring trade in Barcelona and their dresses here were spectacular, although they only had one collection on show. The stand was mobbed but with dresses that are so desirable on social, they do not disappoint in the flesh. The lace is soft and a good quality, the big dresses are entrance-making and yet their cut is very commercial. They do have a huge social media presence, they seem to come out of nowhere and if you posted one of their images it did brilliantly. Worth looking at was Olympia Sposa, an Italian brand, very glamorous, very understated elegance. Smack in the middle of the stand was a new brand that I wasn’t familiar with called Malee from Germany, easy to wear, relaxed dresses in lace – perfect if you need that boho bride box ticking. And then finally Chic Nostalgia, which I find a very interesting collection because it’s well priced, well made and bang on trend.

Finally, moving on in my search for new accessories, I loved Rainbow Club’s detachable clips – who wouldn’t want an extra bit of fluff or sparkle on your shoes? And it was nice to see Jupon was doing more hats. Yet more sparkle and lace at Richard Designs; what a huge selection of amazing veils and tiaras, a real go to for many of my shoots in the past. Sparkle bright I really was getting quite heavily distracted by all the twinkling of the accessory designers, they really can make or break an outfit, and if you have ever tried to make jewellery yourself you know how tricky it is, and how labour intensive. Swarovski once took me on a bracelet-making class, they told me what to do and how to do it. My brain understood, but my hands did not obey. The result looked like something you’d love if a five-year-old made it as a present; you’d thank them, say lovely, and hide it away immediately. Talking of five-year-olds, a quick shout out to TH&TH. Not only do they produce lovely wearable bridesmaids’ dresses – and we all know how tricky that is – but they do an amazing mini that’s a sure-fire winner for me. I was trying to make my way towards the Eliza Jane Howell stand. I was very upset to hear of the death of Gill. I have fond memories of her. She was a fun, interesting person and always had great stories to tell over lunch. She carried on working right to the end, producing a great little collection as usual, moving the brand forward. Under the EJH label there are dresses for everyone not only for retro lovers. I think there’s a real audience out there – those who cannot afford some of the Israeli and Lebanese brands but love a bit of sparkle. On the stand, we had a few hugs and shared tears. Gill’s talent will be marching down the aisle on many of future brides; she leaves a great legacy.

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MIKAELLA

CARTA BRANCA

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LOVE AND LIBERTY

It was nice to see more points of difference – ranges have been cut down with smaller but more focused USPs. I think people are moving on now, and specialising must be a relief rather than having to be all things to all people. I was only at Harrogate for the Sunday. Thinking back to the days when at You &Your Wedding we had a stand, and it was styled fabulously, full of magazines to give away. The fashion team would go onto various designers stands and we were often not allowed to take pictures, so I do these pathetic little sketches of dresses to call in for shoots. I’d do all these funny illustrations, which made sense when I was

simple clean lines JUSTIIN ALEXANDER SIGNATURE

Moving forward Direction wise, it was nice to see: • A good selection of big dresses not weighty but modern and light. • Separates are becoming more popular as brides love the idea of creating “their own design”. • Lace is ever present and still my favourite bridal fabric. • Sparkles, in a more subtle way, still rule the party floor. Bring it on please, more parties!!!

SOPHIA TOLLI

I missed seeing Charlie Brear, and Savin. I don’t know how that happened, I must have got side tracked. It’s interesting that the one key thing that I looked for at this exhibition was wearability. It sounds so boring and obvious but no one should buy a dress that doesn’t do what it’s supposed to do. If you want a strapless dress it should stay up, if you want lace, you should be able to wear underwear, you should be able to dance and move in your gown, and it should look fabulous in photos. At this point I think my award for dedication to a destination goes to Christina Blanchette from Maggie Sottero. It took her 31 hours to get from Salt Lake City to Harrogate due to a cancelled plane and the domino effect – match that if you can!

watching the show but I’d come back with pictures and I couldn’t identify one dress from another because I’d drawn some weird matchstick bride, with a frilly hem. Fast forward a few years, we were allowed to use Polaroids and take pictures of key styles we wanted to shoot. I had an Art Director who insisted that we kept our note books out of sight so that other magazines would not see what we planned to call in, like they cared or had time. It was proper “Devil wears Pronuputia” times. Gradually, the whole market has changed over the past ten years. Now we snap a picture and post it in order to get brides super excited, but there is something to be said

about allowing a little bit of time from seeing the shows in the flesh to the bride being aware of the whole collection and knowing all the style names before you have them down pat. I realise that everything moves on but when you are driving backwards and forwards for seven hours in a day it does make you reflect on things past, present and future! By the time we’d been upstairs and seen Maggie, we were starving, but the wining and dining of people we hadn’t seen for a long time seems no longer appropriate. So it was back into the car. We stopped off at petrol station, filled up, moaned about the cost of fuel for at least 30 miles or £30 worth. We got ourselves a fine selection of

sandwiches and nibbles for the long drive home. Oh, how we have moved on... from lunch at The Orchid to garage snacks. We chatted about the people that we’d seen and how important it is to consistently keep in touch. We are a very people business and our relationships are key, and although it’s fantastic to see new people entering the market you have to applaud the designers and companies who managed to survive and prosper and still produce fresh collections each season. Designers out there, I applaud you. Peta Hunt Stylist /Art Director /Consultant +44 (0)7973 630366

JESUS PEIRO

MALEE

Separates

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One Very Fine Day Indeed One Fine Day Bridal Markets launched in 2015 recognising a need to bring together fashion forward designers in a relaxing and instagrammable environment. The formula has proved to be a winner, underpinning the ‘less is so much more’ message. We talked to Nadean Richards, CEO of the event

adean Richards of the ground-breaking show platform that runs shows in both in New York and London, explains the origin of the concept: “We had experienced the stress of running about town during New York Bridal Fashion Week, being late for appointments, stuck in traffic, visiting designers’ hotel rooms where they clearly slept as well and it was really stressful! “We wanted to create an event that reduced the overwhelm for buyers,

where they could spend their time doing business, choosing from the most on-trend designers, making the experience easy and enjoyable. With One Fine Day, we have created a space for designers and buyers to shine together with the ultimate goal of growing businesses.” In the event’s first foray into the exhibition circuit, there were 16 topnotch names. This year, in October in New York, there were 32, retaining that special intimacy that has become part of the show’s distinct personality. And that is what draws the audience

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in – 1,200 buyers from across the world from Australia, South Africa, China, Japan, South Korea, Ireland, UK, France, Belgium, Germany, Turkey, Spain, America and more. “This event is like no other,” says Nadean. “We aim to make the experience for the buyers best in class. We want them to be comfortable, feel welcome, enjoy drinks and canapes whilst conducting their business meetings in a creative environment. We want businesses to make connections and be presented with real opportunities made possible

in our collaborative space.” We asked Nadean if One Fine Day has seen changes in retailers’ shopping habits recently. “We’ve been through a transitional buying space as everything went online,” she explained. “We talked to many buyers at the event, who all agree that the competition is fierce and that it is important for them to be here to claim their spot in their region as the sought-after boutique for brides to get their dresses. They recognise the need to keep the connection with their designers and to touch and feel

the dresses again to get a real sense of quality and special features.” With regard to brides’ budgets current, she said “With the uncertainty in the world right now it’s unclear as to whether the average sale price is reducing. But one thing we do know is that the dress is up there with the top three purchases of a wedding.” One Fine Day, while setting the scene for an enjoyable buying experience, sees itself as competing with London Bridal Fashion Week, Barcelona and Milan, but with its mission of quality rather than quantity

when it comes to exhibitors. The intimate, exclusive atmosphere of the show is due, the organisers believe, to the curated collection of designers that they choose to work with – those who share the same business values – and the boutique owner who wants the best for their customers. ”We set the scene for doing business during New York Fashion Week,” they say. Visit onefinedaybridalmarket.com to find out more about the event, to see the collections of the designers who exhibited in October, and for details of the next London event.

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Pongees Helen’s bridal boutique opened 12 years ago in Clitheroe, Lancashire

Material Matters At the recent Textile Forum, there was every luxury fabric you could imagine and the most glorious of trims, gathered together from across the world. Three major players talked us through their very particular offering PONGEES Pongees was established in the UK more than 90 years ago selling greige cloth to the printing industry for silk ties and scarves. Griege commonly refers to an unfinished woven or knitted fabric that hasn’t been

bleached or dyed, but in Pongees case the name comes fom a group of Chinese silks that were particularly popular at the time. Fast forward to today, with the company handling fabrics from the UK, France, Italy and Asia. The special occasionwear and bridalwear sectors are of key importance today, with the company supplying an enormous number of designers, from the leading couture houses to well established and new designers across the globe. They also sell to many students which is vital, they say, for nurturing the next generation designers. The current best-sellers are douppion, satin, stretch satin, habotai and French chiffon, and customers can take advantage of a highly- attractive minimum order of just one metre.

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They’ll also get swatches, shade cards, catalogues and ‘feelers’ to help designers – and that could be bridalwear retailers, make the right buying decisions. Getting noticed right now, Pongees say, are the sustainable fabrics from Sanmartin, the Portuguese bridal and couture fabric specialists that they represent in the UK, as well its ranges of fancy fabrics. Pongees has also introduced a tartan which can work on its own or in conjunction with our complementary and is currently collaborating with its mills on ideas for other fabrics, such as mixtures of silk with other natural yarns to extend its portfolio. The company shows at Bridal Week Harrogate. +44(0)20 7739 9130 sales@pongees.com www.pongees.com

MICHAEL’S BRIDAL FABRICS Since 1996, this famous two-generation family business has been handlibg fine fabrics from countries across the world, including Japan, South Korea, Japan, India, China, Taiwan, Myanmar, France, Holland, Italy, Turkey, and UK, and is regarded as a specialist in formalwear fabrics. Currently, Michael Bristol son Barry, and five other family members are seeing a demand for most kinds of crepes – one- and two-way stretch – and both plain and glitter tulle. And the latest trends? “We are constantly expanding our collection of Eco friendly products,” says Michael, a regular exhibitor at Bridal Week. London, and Harrogate: “It now covers many different types of fabrics including laces and embroideries and plains, such as satins, crepes, mikados, tulles, linings and printed silks. We also have our first eco friendly edgings and motifs, compositions of recycled polyester, bio degradable silk, organic cotton, viscose from sustainable sources (new trees planted). Also, there are also some plain and self-coloured mini designs produced on orange, banana, eucalyptus, aloe vera, corn, bamboo and even rose petals. This is the way of the future, and gradually the prices for eco fabrics are getting nearer to those of non eco versions. It is only a question of when, not if, more of the world’s textile suppliers will move over to producing these types of alternative yarns . +44(0) 1322 380480 admin@michaelsbridalfabrics.co.uk www.michaelsbridalfabrics.co.uk

Michael’s Bridal Fabric Helen’s bridal boutique opened 12 years ago in Clitheroe, Lancashire

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CARRINGTON FABRICS Celebrating its 50th birthday in April of this year, Carrington supplies a multitude of designers, manufacturers, and professional dressmakers. With a minimum one metre order requirement, fabrics in the portfolio are sourced globally, from, among others, Japan, Korea, Taiwan, India, Turkey, Italy and the UK; silky satins, mikados, jacquards, glitter fabrics and floral prints are a speciality. According to Robert Moyle: “The latest trends we see are in plain dyes, particularly fabrics with structure to them Glitter fabrics of all descriptions are also very popular at the moment including all-over glitters which reflect a pattern or design; these have replaced lace type fabrics. We are seeing a similar trend with crystal type fabrics as well as crystal trims and

appliques. For colours the trend of porcelain over ivory or cream continues and for bridesmaid colours literally everything seems to be acceptable even colours that have been out of vogue such as bottle green and chocolate. We have also seen considerable interest in 3D fabrics –laser cut, pleated and layered. +44(0) 1204 692223 sales@carringtonfabrics.co.uk www.carringtonfabrics.co.uk

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THE HELENA COTTER TRAINING ACADEMY - B R I DA L . E S T. 2 0 0 3 Learn how to work smarter, not harder with a range of Sales Training Courses & services designed specifically for the niche Bridal Industry SERVICES INCLUDE

COURSES INCLUDE

aIn-house training days aOnline training courses aLive chat mini courses a Let me help you build a course to suit your professional needs

aDirector mentoring aManagement development aTeam building a One to one coaching aFREE ongoing business support.

Investment costs start from just £225 +44 (0) 1582 451238 and +44 (0) 7896 944759 info@helenacotter.co.uk www.helenacotter.co.uk

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hccoaching

Helena Cotter

With passion Christine Dando of Dando London talks about her 2023 collection; we picked out a handful of gowns that tell the story – a difficult task as they are all stunners

ith every new collection, Christine Dando aims to produce 24 new designs. And that’s not variations on existing styles, as so many houses tend to do, but 24 distinctly different pieces each with a unique personality. Designed in Canada and produced in Asia, this is a twice-yearly label that never fails to surprise and delight because it is far removed from the norm, and also because of the degree of intricate detail that is integral to the Dando London character.

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“Our stockists are craving the plain simple styles that are the epitome of the timeless elegance of the Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly eras. They want gowns that fit to perfection and ooze class and quality. And that owes so much to the cut and fabric,” says Christine. “We are working with beautiful heavy weight stretch crêpe, which has a particular richness, and we are also using some new printed fabrics that have just a hint of a pattern, as well as a new unusual 3D-lace that is whimsical and romantic.” Christine is finding that an increasing number of brides today are buying two dresses, one for the day and one for the evening, which gives them the ultimate opportunity to embrace two very different looks – one that will suit the formality and splendour of the wedding ceremony, and the other that is perfect for a sparkling evening on the dance floor. We also offer gowns with detachable trains and these, along with detachable sleeves, create that two-look option that is so in demand today. Showing both at London Bridal Week and Harrogate, with different collections at each, Dando London, Christine Dando has captured a sector of the market that she can truly call her own. There is nothing sweet or girlish about her work – the look is statement-making, strong, and barrier breaking, certainly with its ability to re-shape the body and make the most of feminine features. With 50 stockists, and a recommended retail pricing platform of between £1,800 and £2,500, this is a label that means serious business for the self-assured fashion-aware bride. The most indemand sizes are UK 12 and 14. Unsurprisingly, Christine reaches brides themselves – and stays in touch with them – via social media and uses an abundance of different platforms. “Dedicated, designated activity is key,” she says “if you want to get that message over to the right audience”.

And now she is looking forward to a fruitful busy season with brides looking for their dream dress for 2023 and beyond. Step forward all you Audreys – Get ready for a rare treat. Dando London +44 1420 23490 christinedandobridals@gmail.com www.dandolondon.com

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Answering retailers’ questions At Harrogate, Helena Cotter met many retailers who wanted to expand their knowledge, learn some top tips and hear it all from an acknowledged expert

rade shows present a great opportunity to meet potential customers, learn about their businesses and of course, to catch up with existing customers, too. Retailers who spent time at my stand at Harrogate were keen to find out more about the inhouse, online and live chat training courses and services available and to learn how investing in their staff pays dividends Generally, discussions focused around the following: …How to get that sale By far and away, this is the very first question I am asked. Retailers tell me they know a lot, it’s just that final bit they need help with – the

end of an appointment and closing the sale. It can often be a challenge and something which makes some people nervous. Thinking about what you are going to say can make you fearful, and brides can sense that fear, which isn’t ideal. Often due to what could be described as the theatrics of an appointment – working hard to keep up the momentum, the self-motivation, and the brides (and sometimes their guests) can be emotionally and physically draining. Energy levels can drop and so can sales. Running on empty in terms of ideas about how to move the appointment to a successful conclusion can only lead to the bride walking. And they’ll go straight to another shop and buy. I was asked for advice about the age-old issue of the bride who states they want to “Think about it” at the end of their appointment. That can be interpreted as a no. It can be very trying to get all the way through the appointment and be greeted with that phrase, especially when the bride and her entourage are giving off really positive vibes. At that point, the bridal consultant may be worn out and genuinely

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unsure about what to say or do! Usually, they will say “Would you like to book another appointment” which gives the bride a way out. When all other avenues have been exhausted, and nothing appears to be working, you need to be able to sell. Being able to dip in and out of your skill set to ensure a mutually positive outcome is therefore vital. ...Customers who want to keep looking around I was surprised that this has become a huge issue again. It disappeared for some time and has now come back with a vengeance. They don’t want this experience to end. I gave advice about how to stop that cycle. And, importantly, how you do it without coming across as pushy and manipulative, which is a big no-no. …Improving footfall Retailers were asking what more could be done to get brides through the door and for them to buy a dress. We all look at social media to a greater or lesser degree, so focusing on delivering to your accounts is paramount. And of course, don’t forget your website. This is your shop window.

…Keeping motivation levels high This can be found in reducing hours where possible and practical, job sharing and by delegating and evenly sharing duties. Moving staff around different departments in a business makes for a good all-rounder. It is important they are familiar with all aspects of your business and it also helps them avoid burn out. Happy staff = happy customers. …Controlling guests Some retailers I saw at Harrogate were keen to find out how to keep the buzz without compromising on customer service and care when looking to lead appointments. We talked about how to maintain control (in the loose sense of the word) as it is guests of the bride who can often make or break the sale. The familiar scene of the party splitting up, picking out dresses for the bride to try ‘for fun’, putting veils on their heads and drinking all the booze!

a reasonable distance emotionally and professionally. It is a juggling act and a fine line between maintaining just enough niceness/friendliness in order to avoid becoming a walk over. …The etiquette of following up customers who don’t buy today I chatted to several retailers who never follow up customers. There is nothing inherently wrong with that, it is though a shame as doing so can add sales to your figures. As with everything bridal retail, it’s all in the delivery. …Whether to charge for appointments Some business owners who came to my stand voiced concerns about whether to charge for appointments and if so, just for Saturdays/ weekends/VIP appointments, or every day? I am not overly surprised by their hesitancy. I suggested that a try-it-and-see approach is the way forward. I know there are retailers who will never, ever charge for appointments and that is their prerogative. It has to be taken on a shop-by-shop basis. If everyone in

…Handling difficult customers There were so many comments made in my sessions about handling complaints and Moving staff around different managing ever-increasing departments in a business makes expectations, both during and after appointments. for a good all-rounder This is a real art and so important, I am developing your area charges, then it becomes a new course specifically covering this subject; it will be available in the normal and won’t be questioned by new year to purchase and download your customers. Equally, you may choose not to charge in your area as via the shop on my website. a way of attracting customers. As I always say, you must do what suits …Striking the balance between you and your business. There are no being nice and too nice golden rules! I always love to talk about this Customers of mine, having taken because it is a huge deal for retailers. Knowing how and when, and whether the decision to charge for their to cross from professional into friend. time, have found that no-shows and cancellations have dropped off, Once you have crossed that line, which is good news. Be brave and it’s really hard to step back when give it a try. You have nothing to lose, required. It’s always best to maintain

and if it doesn’t work, change back. Nothing has to be set in stone. …In house seamstresses I am sure this will resonate with many of you. I had a business owner ask me about whether they should carry out alterations in store. This is a difficult one as either way has its pros and cons. It can often add kudos to your business to be able to offer this service. However, offering it also brings its own unique problems. And we know all about them, don’t we! There is no straightforward answer. If you have the room, the best seamstress you can find and can work well with, then go for it. If however, you prefer to let your customers go off to reputable seamstresses you have suggested, then that may well be enough. As I said earlier in this feature, it’s all in the delivery. How you say something and what you say can make or break a sale. One thing I am sure of is that you are the absolute best in retail. You are a fantastic high street success story and should be very proud of your achievements. I am looking forward to all the bridal shows coming up next year. Hope to see you at one of them. Keep an eye on my social media and website for announcements. In 2023, Helena celebrates her 20-year anniversary in business. The training courses she runs are perfect for both brand new and experienced staff members, and all sizes of businesses and budgets. T: +44 (0)1582 451238 /+44 (0)7896 944759 E: info@helenacotter.co.uk www.helenacotter.co.uk Insta: hccoaching Twitter: @hcSalesTrainer Linkedin: Helena Cotter

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Write On Do you return from trade events with a pile of notes, a handful of post-its, and perhaps the odd voice recording on your phone? Time to look at the new breed of e-ink tablets, says Chris Partridge

ven in the digital age there is a lot to be said for handwriting. Writing things down fixes information in the memory much better than tapping at a keyboard, psychologists believe, and recently sales of paper notebooks and organisers have rocketed. However, paper has one big drawback - it does not play nicely with the office software that rules our lives. Writing with a stylus on a smartphone or tablet does not feel the same, even though handwriting recognition is now incredibly fast and accurate. A new generation of e-ink tablets with black-and-white screens like those of e-readers such as the Kindle promises to provide a winning combination of screens that are a pleasure to write or draw on, and the ability to convert the results into digital form. An e-ink tablet can

potentially replace not just the latest novel in your bag but your notebook, diary, and collections sketchpad as well. The e-ink screen is clear to read even in direct sunlight, and the battery life is measured in days rather than hours. Put it together with your smartphone and you have a powerful productivity combo that can be put into action wherever you go. Unfortunately, the offerings on the market are so varied it is very difficult to choose the best one to meet your individual needs. Some e-ink tablets focus on note-taking to the detriment of just reading books. Others seem to regard note-taking as an optional add-on with frustratingly sub-par performance. The best example of a dedicated note-taking device is the reMarkable 2, a 10in, super-thin and lightweight e-ink screen designed specially to give a pen-and-paper experience when writing. A very wide range of templates is supplied, including lined paper, graph paper and music paper for songwriters and composers. It is easy to enter new dates in your diary and scribble a new supplier or customer’s details in your contacts list. Handwriting recognition is excellent and PDFs can be displayed and annotated. Drawing is fluid and enjoyable. And cataloguing and storing notes for easy retrieval is excellent. The price is right too - £279 direct from remarkable.com is less than

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you would pay for most tablets. The reMarkable 2 is a great professional tool, but it has the drawback that it will only show ePub books that are free of digital rights management restrictions (ie practically none), so if you want to read books as well as make notes it is rather limited. At the other end of the spectrum is the Kobo Elipsa from Rakuten, Amazon’s main competitor in the ebook world. The Elipsa has a 10in screen and a stylus that enables you to annotate Kobo ebooks and PDFs, as well as take notes. However. There is always a however. The stylus is a bit laggy so writing is not a totally fluid experience and drawing is limited to scribbles, really. The range of paper templates is sparse. There is no diary or agenda function and it costs more too, at £350. Probably a device for readers rather than writers. Possibly the most plausible candidate for the optimum combination of e-reader and e-ink tablet is the the Onyx Boox Max Lumi2. This is an e-ink tablet with much bigger ambitions - literally: it features a massive 13.3in screen and runs the Android 11 operating system found on tablets so it can run apps from the Google Play store, and the company has worked with developers to optimise apps for the Lumi2, so such mainstays of professional life as One Note, Google Docs and Evernote all work well. The Lumi2 even has a microphone

Onyx Boox Max Lumi2

so you can dictate notes and have them converted into text, great when visiting a trade event and looking at new collections. There are only two significant drawbacks. One is that the stylus is a bit slippy, which makes writing and drawing less of a true pen-and-paper experience. The other is, of course, the price: the thick end of £900. The latest e-ink tablet has been launched by the 800lb gorilla of the ebook market, Amazon - the Kindle Scribe, at a price of £330. The Scribe has a big, crisp 10in screen, a stylus and a built-in notebook app. Uniquely, readers will be able to annotate Kindle ebooks by attaching ‘sticky notes’ to the page, and sticky notes can be exported to Word documents, too. The notebook app is a bit limited, at least according to the information released so far. For a start, there is no handwriting recognition, which is bizarre - most e-ink tablets and all smartphones have it so why not? This is a big restriction, making using the Scribe as your diary or email terminal impossible. It is a bit disappointing that Amazon has failed to take the opportunity to make the Scribe more an e-reader with tablet superpowers. My personal vision is to be able to travel with just two items - a smartphone for communicating and colour photography, and an e-ink tablet for reading, writing and all the other things we traditionally did with a stack of books. So far, it remains a dream.

Koba Elipsa

reMarkable 2

Kindle Scribe

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WEDDING TRADER GOES LEGAL Every issue we will be bringing you the latest information of new legalities that could affect your business. This is where advice from the experts really matters...

Falling Foul Of The Green Claims Code? PART

How green are you? What can happen to fashion brands that are not playing it straight? Stephen Sidkin, partner, and Millie Pierce, trainee solicitor at Fox Williams LLP explain possible outcomes

n 29 July 2022, the Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) announced that it was investigating the sustainability claims made by ASOS, Asda and Boohoo about the eco-friendly nature of their fashion products. This follows earlier announcements by the CMA and is part of its wider investigation into misleading environmental claims. Key areas of scrutiny include the use of vague language implying that collections are more eco-friendly than they are, sustainability criteria being lower than a consumer would reasonably expect, and lack of information on fabric composition provided to customers. But what happens if the CMA’s investigation finds that these brands have broken consumer protection laws? What penalties will they face? What should other fashion brands be wary of?

Key legislation The main legislation relevant to the CMA’s investigations is the Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading Regulations 2008 (‘CPUT’), which applies to ‘commercial practices’: an act, omission, or commercial communication (for example, advertising) by a trader, connected with the sale or supply of a product, whether before, during or after a commercial transaction (if any). Prohibitions CPUT provides for specific prohibitions against (i) misleading actions, (ii) misleading omissions, and (iii) a general prohibition against unfair commercial practices. Misleading Actions There are three categories of prohibited misleading actions provided for by CPUT, the most relevant being where a commercial practice contains false information, or deceives (or is likely to deceive) the average consumer (even where factually correct), to the extent that it causes a consumer to make a ‘transactional decision’ that, but for the misleading action, the consumer would not have taken. A ‘transactional decision’ could include whether to buy a product, or even merely whether to click on to a

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website to browse a ‘green’ clothing collection. False information can relate to: the main characteristics of the product, for eg the percentage of recycled material from which the product is made; or the extent of the trader’s commitments, such as a statement claiming “We’re committed to being 90% carbon neutral by 2024”. Misleading Omissions Omissions are often much trickier to prove than actions. Indeed there has yet to be a court action where a misleading omission has been successfully proven under CPUT. A commercial practice will constitute a misleading omission where it: omits or hides material information; provides material information in a manner which is unclear, unintelligible, ambiguous or untimely; or fails to identify its commercial intent, unless this is already apparent from the context, to the extent that it causes a consumer to make a transactional decision. Material information relates to the information needed by a customer to make an informed transactional decision, and information required for advertising and marketing as a result of retained EU legislation. Where a product is being offered for sale, this can also include the main characteristics of the product and details regarding the

seller. It should also be noted that a misleading omission may also constitute a misleading action where it deceives a consumer into making a transactional decision. Unfair Commercial Practices This is a fall-back offence for the broader commercial practices not covered under misleading actions or omissions and ensures the CMA can still prosecute other misleading, aggressive or prohibited practices. However, if a misleading omission or action is successfully proven, it will also be an offence under this general prohibition. This prohibition includes any commercial practice which breaches professional diligence requirements (the reasonable standard of special skill and care of the seller to the consumer); and materially impacts (or is likely to) the economic behaviour of the average consumer regarding the product. Penalties When an offence is committed, the CMA and Trading Standards can seek wide ranging penalties under CPUT. On summary conviction, an unlimited fine can be imposed. On conviction on indictment, an offender may be subject to an unlimited fine, up to two years imprisonment, or both. In addition to these penalties, fashion brands that are exposed for making misleading environmental claims may find themselves subject to consumers exercising a right of redress or adverse publicity and scrutiny or both. Who can be liable? Alongside companies CPUT provides for penalties to be imposed on directors as well as managers. Other actions Over the past few years, a new type of litigation has arisen – securities litigation – where a public company, which has acted in breach of the law resulting in a drop in its share price and a loss being incurred by

its shareholders, may be sued by its shareholders. In addition, a derivative action may be brought by a shareholder against a company as a result of an actual or proposed act or omission involving negligence, default, breach of duty or breach of trust by a director of the company. This should be of particular concern to those fashion businesses which are public companies and are found to have infringed the Green Claims Code following the start earlier this year of a derivative action by ClientEarth against the board of directors of Shell plc. In this case, ClientEarth contends that the board has failed to adopt and implement a climate strategy that aligns with the goal of the UN Paris Agreement (to limit the global temperature increase in this century to 1.5°C) and prepare the company for the inevitable transition to net-zero emissions.

Take home points Fashion brands should be wary of making environmental claims that cannot be quantified at risk of breaching the CMA’s Green Claims Code and committing an offence under CPUT. Businesses looking to make green claims should be able to point to their own compliance procedures and be prepared to have them subject to verification. Under CPUT, a trader does not necessarily need knowledge of the offence to be guilty of committing one. The fact that companies, as well as directors and managers, can be prosecuted means it is vital for brands to be protecting employees as well as the brand and ensuring that greenwashing does not occur. This is particularly relevant in the social media age where public opinion can change quickly and have an even greater impact on profitability.

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PART

Making Sure Your Environmental Claims Stick With no standardised way to measure whether materials are sustainable or not, consumers face confusing claims and counterclaims. Follow the key Green claims checklist detailed here

ccompanying the Green Claims Code, the Green claims checklist sets out 13 key statements with which businesses must be able to agree when making a green claim. These are the five key statements in the checklist and the actions that brands can take to enable compliance and so avoid claims of greenwashing. Read on and take careful note...

1.Evidence, Evidence, Evidence A key element to supporting your brand’s green claim is making sure that all green claims are credible and are capable of being evidenced. This goes back to the start of the supply chain. Where a ‘Green’ or ‘Responsible’ label is used on clothing products or in respect of ranges you must be able to clearly show that these claims are accurate and are in place across the entire supply chain.

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This is key to avoid greenwashing claims. According to the Green Claims Code, ‘green’ claims must be capable of being substantiated. This overarching point is covered by a range of statements within the checklist. Conversely, it is important to avoid ‘puff’ or hyperbole. It follows that, if using generalised and subjective wording such as “We have the most sustainable fashion collection in the UK”, there needs to be evidence to substantiate such

a claim. Using broad terms is not a substitute for a lack of evidence! 2. Tell the truth Though it should be a given, all claims made must be accurate and truthful, as well as being clear to understand. One example that has achieved recent media attention is the reliability of the Higg Index created by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition since the ban on the index’s use by the Norwegian Consumer Authority. Similar issues were echoed a few weeks ago in a class action brought against H&M in New York claiming false advertising in the water usage of its ‘Conscious’ collection. When a consumer is looking to purchase a product made, for example, from organic components, it is clear that they expect the majority of the product to be made from organic materials. If only 20% of the components of the product are deemed to be organic in origin, this is likely to be misleading. But in the absence of a statutory definition of ‘organic’ available, this becomes a further grey area!

3. Keep it fair Any comparisons made to other products must be both fair and meaningful. This includes comparing the recyclable content of two products, or either the CO2 emissions produced by, or the water content used in, production. Where used, any comparisons made must be calculated in the same way on comparable products. The CMA guidance is that comparisons should often be avoided at all if possible, as vague or incoherent statements do not help to substantiate comparisons. Where used, comparisons should be specific and quantify the comparison. 4. Do not try to hide When making a ‘green’ claim about a product line, the claim must not omit or hide any important information. Brands should avoid ‘cherry picking’ information that paints a positive environmental picture when this is not the full story. This can have a negative impact and be misleading for consumers. When brands are providing explanations of green claims, they should make sure that further

Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases. (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

information is easily available to consumers. A rule of thumb is that, if all the relevant information cannot be communicated in a fair way to every potential consumer (for example, on the product label) brands should reconsider the fairest method of communication to all consumers. 5. The supply chain is accountable Green claims must be able to be substantiated at all stages of the supply chain. Brands making such claims need to be able to provide evidence that their suppliers are meeting the environmental standards. To ensure that this is done, brands may wish to ask for additional protection from suppliers such as additional environmental clauses in their manufacturing contracts or providing additional evidence of production processes and fibre contents. Take home points As sustainability grows in importance for the fashion industry, brands are increasingly looking to release sustainable, ‘green’ products. Those doing so need to ensure that they stay in line with the thirteen points of the Green claims checklist to avoid investigation by the CMA, potentially significant fines, actions by consumers, claims by shareholders, infringing product labelling requirements, public shaming – and ultimately damage to brand reputation. © 2022 Fox Williams LLP www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com

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“I found several new labels at Harrogate, two that I’d never heard of before. I loved what I saw but was nervous to buy – what if they are not around next season and I have a hole in my stock? Does anyone else feel this way? Am I just being over cautious? I did, of course, check the designer’s website but unsurprisingly it was beautiful. I couldn’t find much of social media though..”

R0MONA KAVEZA

“I know a lot of people have been critical about the Bridal Buyer Awards this year, and particularly about the judging panel – or lack of one. I do wonder, however, if this is a case of sour grapes, spread by those who didn’t make it to be a finalist. I thought it was a great evening, with a great atmosphere, and have sent my best wishes to the winners. We need to be gracious in this industry of ours and share good thoughts rather than gripes. I have entered The Wedding Industry Awards and plan to enter BB’s next year.””

“One of the best outcomes of the pandemic for me has been a new-found group of contacts with whom I now share thoughts, experiences and importantly, concerns. It is sad that it has taken a world-wide disaster to bring people together, but now we can all make up for lost time. I have been so impressed, too, with the attitude of so many of my brides who are now putting other people, especially refugees in need, up their in their priority list. One bride in fact, has said she would like to donate her gown, after her big day, to someone who is here because she and her family have had no choice. Is this something we retailers should be looking at ongoing, and forming some sort of collective which could supply dresses and accessories to those in need to help bringing a little joy to those less fortunate?” “Thank you Wedding Trader, for helping me make shopping decisions pre Harrogate. Your thoughts were hugely helpful and certainly got me shortlisting labels to see at the show. And I bought from two of them!”

And Finally Ups and downs, ins and outs, but so much to look forward to

Got a view you want to share with like-minded others? Want suggestions from industry colleagues? Email me – susi@rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going. We are for retailers, and about retailers. 90 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 2

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Wedding Trader - issue 32

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