Split In Your Pocket 2021

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Hangin’ Out Sightseeing Shopping

Split Summer 2021

Touring the Split Region: Tips, Advice and Destinations & Activities N°18 - complimentary copy split.inyourpocket.com

Foreword

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

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Split Surroundings 27

A zesty editorial to unfold

The top getaways

Top Events 4

Top Sights around Split 36

A pick ’n’ list to brighten your stay

Discover what we’ve uncovered

Local Flavour

9 We are sure you’ve never seen these dishes on the menu

Restaurants

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Makarska Riviera 39 All in a day

Shopping 42

We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat

Priceless places and buys

Hangin’ Out 20 Are you ready to party?

SOS! Have no fear, SIYP is here

Sightseeing

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Discover what we ‘ve uncovered

Arrival & Getting Around

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Maps

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City map City centre map Top Natural Sights of Southern Croatia

Foreword With thousands of locals and visitors funneled daily through the narrow alleys that make up its historic core, Split in summertime is one of those bustling, sweaty, vibrant Mediterranean cities that becomes more addictive the longer you stay. Indeed its take-off as a tourist destination has been so rapid that many are beginning to question whether Split still is the grittily authentic Dalmatian port it used to be.

Such fears are a little bit on the snobbish side: Split people rather like foreign visitors, and the city is in any case big enough to absorb the commercial aspects of tourism without losing too much of its gruff personality. Squeezed between a pungent fish market at one end and a large, boisterous fruit-and-veg market at the other, Split’s ancient centre is not in any immediate danger of becoming a tourist-only zone.

Locals are constantly rushing through it with their shopping bags, brushing past the fork lift-style trucks that deliver supplies to the shops and boutiques squeezed into its tight alleys. The palm-splashed seafront Riva is the city’s idea of a huge municipal open-air living room-cumoffice space, filled with locals exchanging gossip, making calls, doing business while sitting at a café table, or simply checking out what everybody else is wearing.

So if there’s one city in Europe where you can simply switch off and go with the flow, it’s Split.

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-856X Company Office & Accounts Croatia In Your Pocket, Zagreb, Croatia zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Ivana Kovačić, Lee Murphy, Jonathan Bousfield Design Ivana Mihoković, Moontage Photography In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Photo by Samantha Hentosh/Unsplash Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Kristina Štimac, Višnja Arambašić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Split (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Top Events

A wonderful night of jazz to shazz up your summer with a fine assortment of bands and musicians performing on the night. July 30 & 31, Đardin Free entry Split Open Jazz Fair Archives

Krsto Hegedušić, Šampion,1964, NMMU Zagreb Archives

As part of the Catamaran Art project, three greats of Croatian modern art are exhibiting: Krsto Hegedušić, Ljubo Ivančić and Edo Murtić. 2021 is the anniversary of the birth of Krsto Hegedušić and Edo Murtić (whose large retrospective you can see in Zagreb until July 18), and in the Split Art Fine Gallery from July 10 to August 31 you have the opportunity to meet Edo Murtić.

Nipplepeople Archives

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18.05 - 19.09 » Theater by the Sea Theatre by the Sea is a new open-air theatre festival that will delight audiences in Split throughout the summer, one step away from the sea and amongst centuries-old olive trees. This year’s premiere programme presents some of the most popular performances from all over Croatia with top actors. The programme consists of more than 20 different plays for adults and several plays for children. Details about the programme, as well as the purchase of tickets, are available on the official website of the festival. Ticket office open 17:00 - 21:00. Reservation line: 091 972 05 40.QLora Summer Stage, Poljudsko šetalište 1e, www.teataruzmore.com/.

10.06 - 12.07 » Saša Sedlaček ‘Très (h) Chic’ The exhibition of Slovenian artist Saša Sedlaček ‘Très (h) Chic’ opens on Thursday at the Art Gallery in Split. An artist of multimedia and intermedia, Sašo Sedlaček uses new technologies of electronic and information structure in his art and connects them with different disciplines in intriguing synergy circuits in order to interrogate and provoke various current social phenomena. The exhibition will feature works by the author from the last twenty years.

QJ‑2, Museum of Fine Arts, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 17, www.galum.hr/en/exhibitions/.

15.06 - 13.07 » 110 years of the Photo Club Split An exhibition of Photo Club Split brings a cross-section of the exceptional history of one of the oldest associations in Split, from the founding of Photoklub - a club of amateur photographers in 1911, through its re-establishment in 1950, until today.QI‑2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 75 97, www.fotoklubsplit.hr/.

25.06 - 17.07 » Festival of Dalmatian klapa Omiš What first started as random songs that men would sing in good company with wine and local food, through to sailors that would return from voyages and sing of their life experiences far away from home, to young men serenading beneath a maids window; the common element amongst all these is the word ‘song’. Over one hundred years ago these were the reasons why music - and that is ‘a capella’ music became a part of Croatian and in particular Dalmatian culture. A century on, now we have groups of singers called klape singing the most melodious of songs from the high pitched tenor to the low bass, and together they create angelic music without the use of instruments, music from the soul. For this reason the city of ‘Omiš’ can be classified as the mecca of ‘a capella music’ worldwide as this festival has been held since 1967, and last year celebrated its 50th jubilee. For over four weeks, klapa ensembles will serenade tourists down the cobbled stone paths of the city and the true final competition will be held mid-July. This is a must see if in town as klapa singing is now recognised and protected by UNESCO since its inclusion into the Representative List of Intangible Heritage. As an added bonus there is a permanent exhibition of the festival of Dalmatian klapa singing which brings people back to the very early days of the event and its past. Along with a professional guide, as well as lots of pictures and exhibits, visitors will gain an insight into the unique story of the way Dalmatian life once was – life with song, company, wine and good food. This all in one package will send you humming back home….Qwww.fdk.hr.

Peruško Bogdanić, Photo by Damil Kalogjera, Ivan Meštrović Museum Archives

Top Events Having won the Radoslav Putar award, Split-based, Šibenik artist Lana Stojićević can be considered Croatia’s best artist One of the most thrilling Croatian artists to emerge in recent years is the Šibenik-born Lana Stojićević. Her photographs directan ambiguous and unsettling gaze towards an Adriatic coast that we normally associate with happy beach holidays. Nominated for the prestigious Radoslav Putar art prize in 2021, Stojićević has become celebrated for a series of works that provide oblique commentary on the uncontrolled growth of vacation houses along the shore. In her 2018 series Fasada she photographed herself wearing an outlandish pink costume made in imitation of a coastal holiday villa. It continued a theme visited in earlier projects Villa Rosa and Parcela, in which modern apartment developments were reimagined as models, toys or cakes.Stojićević has already been feted by the foreign media for Sunny Side, an arresting series of photographs involving the futuristic swimming pool of the Hotel Zora in Primošten. Using both the real pool and models of it reconstructed to look like a flying saucer,Stojićević’s photographssuggest a sci-fi scenario that plays eloquently on the modernist aspects of the Adriatic landscape.

6 2021 SunnySummer Side, Lana Stojičević

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23.04 - 15.09 » All the faces of Judith Judita by Marko Marulić is considered a capital work of Croatian literature. Judita is the first author’s epic, the first poetic work sung in double-rhymed twelves, verses that rely on the original Croatian poetic tradition. It is based on the biblical story of Judita, a brave widow who sacrifices personal welfare for the salvation of her people. For centuries, it was also a stimulus to Croatian actors, directors, painters, and musicians. Many significant Croatian poetic, dramatic, artistic and musical works were created using the template of Marulić’s Judita. The exhibition shows all the most significant Croatian editions of Marulić’s Judita and literary, theatrical, and musical interpretations of Judita from the Library’s collection.QMarko Marulić City Library, Ulica slobode 2, tel. (+385 21) 68 50 00.

06.05 - 04.10 » Judita 500

Photo by Marko Marulić City Library

There is a monument to Marko Marulić on Voćni Square, the work of the exceptional Ivan Meštrović.

This summer in Split will see exhibitions on Marko Marulić, and a visit to the Ivan Meštrović Gallery, where the exhibition of Peruško Bogdanić opens in July.

Photo by Zoran Alajbeg, Ivan Meštrović Museum Archives

The public will see four of the first five editions of Judita, published in Venice in 1521, 1522, 1586, 1627 at the same time for the first time, while the third edition from 1523, kept in the State Library in Munich, will be shown in reprint covers. The first and only complete edition of Judita, kept by the Franciscans of Dubrovnik’s Monastery of the Little Brothers, has been digitised and as such is available for browsing. Open from 10:00 to 14:00 and 17:00 to 20:00, on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:00 to 14:00. QI‑2, Old City Hall, Narodni trg 1 (Pjaca).

500 Years of Marulić’s Judita Marko Marulić(1450–1524), was a Croatian poet, lawyer, judgeand a Renaissance humanist who coined the term psychology and wrote the first Split travel guide, praising the beauty of the Peristyle. Owing to his work, he became the most distinguished person of the humanist circle in Split, known as“the father of the Croatian Renaissance“. His Latin poetry is of such high quality that his contemporaries called him “The Christian Virgil.” The Year of Marko Marulić runs from April 2021 to April 2022 marking 500 years since the printing of Marulić’s “Judita”, the first book by a Croatian author written in the Croatian language.

This epic poem that was written in 1501 and published in Venice in 1521 was a bestseller of its time, translated into many languages.

During Marulić’s life, it ran through as many as three printings in 18 months. Interestingly enough, Marulić was also an accomplished illustrator. The second edition of Judita from 1522 is adorned with nine woodcuts which are assumed to have been created by Marulić himself. Marulić’s portrait is depicted on the Croatian 500 kuna bank note and Festival of the Croatian Drama has been named after him (Festival of Marulić days).

Top Events 09.07 - 10.07 » Fibra Festival Its round 2 after last year’s inauguration of this relatively new festival, Fibra (which in local dialect means ‘having a temperature’, or in this case, ‘the summer heat’) is all about bringing the best of urban culture to the forefront.

Top regional bands and artists include Pips, Chips & Videoclips, Edo Maajka, Vojko V, Detour, Svemirko, Porto Morto, Buč Kesidi and others. From rock and hip hop to even electronic beats, live it up on Bačvice beach this coming July. QD‑3, Open Cinema Bačvice, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 76, 130 - 170 kn.

14.07 - 15.07 » A Sustipan Night’s Dream Sustipan Park will for the seventh year in a row be the location for this exclusive event. Organisers literally go all out to recreate and evoke the atmosphere of Shakespeare’s ‘Midnight Summer Dream’. Dance under the stars in two nights of hedonism with Josipa Lisac and Gibonni.QC‑3, Sustipan, Sustipan, 130 kn

16.07 » Brkovi Brkovi is a Croatian turbofolk-punk rock band from Zagreb. They humorously merged distant genres into a melodic whole. They use emotional verses from turPhoto by Split blues festival Archives

bofolk combined with the intensity of punk rock and the weight of heavy metal.QZenta - Open Air, Ulica Uvala Zenta 3.

17.07 » Nipplepeople + Jonathan When five young gents teamed up in Rijeka to pursue musical prowess, they formed Jonathan back in 2011.

Not wanting to limit their music to one genre, their songs point to the past with alternative and punk rock major influences. Nipplepeople is a Croatian electropop group founded in 2008. Nipplepeople makes a mysterious masked duo. QZenta - Open Air, Ulica Uvala Zenta 3, 80 kn.

20.07 - 30.09 » Peruško Bogdanić - From the Mediterranean Peruško Bogdanić has been actively participating in the contemporary Croatian art scene with his solo exhibitions for almost half a century. With the new cycle presented through 6 vertical forms made of stainless steel and 6 sculptures of organic material (wood), Bogdanić is stepping onto the Split cultural scene for the first time with a one-man exhibition entitled From the Mediterranean. As shown in this exhibition, Peruško Bogdanić has managed to create his own approach to Meštrović’s sculptural work, conceptually harmonizing his artistic individuality with the works of the greatest Croatian sculptor, Ivan Meštrović. Given that the exhibition takes place in the Meštrović Gallery, the cycle that binds two artists together is thus complete. Although they represent two different sculptural discourses, they do not deviate from their sculptural essence. On the contrary, differences bring them closer together which is something we will be able to experience at the exhibition. QB‑3, Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34 08 00, www. mestrovic.hr/.

23.07, 25.07 » Split Blues Festival Who’s got the blues! Split of course, ooze to the sound of blues in one of the largest regional festivals of this genre.

As always, the event has a high level of production and attracts some of the best Croatian and international musicians. Free admission!QJ‑2, Đardin, Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera, www.splitbluesfestival.com.

11.08 - 14.08 » Brač Film Festival As soon as you jump off the ferry and onto the beautiful island of Brač, you’re in Supetar, home to this international film festival which consists of a main and side programme. The main programme displays featurelength and short films with an award given to the latter as voted by the public.QSupetar, Brač island, www. bracfilmfestival.hr.

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Local Flavour

Photos by Višnja Arambašić

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Photo by Matko Petrić

Photo by Supetar Tourist Board Archives

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Photo by Supetar Tourist Board Archives

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Authentic Cultural Food Experiences 1

Komiška or Viška pogača If you keep out a sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from the island of Vis, a flattish breadcake containing a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs depending on the version 2

Varenik An unusual ingredient called Varenik is thought to have been made on Brač for 2000 years – it was mentioned during Roman times. It’s made by boiling red wine down to a concentrate, which is then stored in bottles and added to all sorts of foods, sweet and savoury, to impart a unique and rich flavour. During the time of the Varenik festival, dishes are prepared showcasing the use of this ingredient, and the island’s restaurants have a range of specials on the menu.

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Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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Vitalac Vitalac is listed as an item of non-material cultural heritage in Croatia. A skewer is threaded with small pieces of kidney, lung or what have you, salted and wrapped in soft piece of muscle tissue, gently barbecued, then wrapped in a piece of intestine and roasted for a further hour until crispy on the outside.

For best results, the victim should be a little baby lamb not even weaned from its mother’s milk… sniff! The resulting sausage-shaped delicacy is removed from the skewer, salted, sliced and served warm. The administration of lashings of extra virgin olive oil makes the ingestion of this almost bearable for those who are not fans of offal.

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Soparnik Soparnik is an old-fashioned Dalmatian dish dating back to the time before the Turks invaded the region.

It is a simple dish made by filling two

layers of fillo dough with swiss chard, onions, parsley, garlic and olive oil.

Traditionally, it was prepared on round wooden plates over a stone hearth on days for fasting, such as Good Friday, Christmas Eve or the Feast of All Saints.

Soparnik comes from the former “Peasants’ Republic,” Poljica, which existed in the late Middle Ages, near modernday Omiš, and was prepared to treat guests and friends. Over the years, it has become a symbol of old Poljica.

Once a meal for peasants, it is now a prestigious delicatessen and has been registered Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) recently.

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Arambašići Aramabašići a speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried meats.

These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb.

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Photo by Monika Vrgoč

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Local dishes Chock-a-block with all this food and influences from various parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, Split is rich in simple tasty dishes you have never heard of but once you taste them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tasting all this if you don’t have the good fortune of being invited to someone’s house where mama will surprise your taste buds?

One option is to go exploring among the many konobas (traditional eateries which used to be wine cellars where you could slice some pršut and cheese or eat salted anchovies after a hard day’s work). You’ll find these kinds of restaurants scattered around the old city and the market.

Another option is to schedule your visit around the many gastronomic events happening all summer around Split, most of them based on a certain dish or ingredient.

What sort of dishes should you look out for? It depends on the season. Local people tend to stick very much to what’s around at a given time of year rather than relying on greenhouse-grown produce or imports. So, in the spring, look out for dishes made with artichokes or for young broad beans prepared in a million different ways, for example with lamb, with squid ink… Mmm, it makes us hungry just thinking about it.

Also watch out for divlje zelje, greens picked in the wild.

Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh fish simply grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes; a black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or the classic family meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. In cooler seasons meat comes more to the fore, often cooked with vegetables in a stew-type dish. Look out for aramabašići a speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried meats. These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb. If you keep out a sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from the island of Vis or Hvar, a flattish breadcake containing a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs depending on the version.

Or from inland, look out for soparnik, a flatbread stuffed with chard and spring onions, scattered with garlic and almonds and drizzled with olive oil. These are specialities you might find on sale at Pazar market. On a sweeter note, look out for compressed cakes of dried figs (smokvenjak), commonly made at home and truly delicious.

A speciality from the island of Hvar is forski medenjak, a biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though you’ll probably have to make a pilgrimage to the Nonica patisserie in Hvar town to find it. And if you are in Trogir, look out for rafiole. These are little half-moons made from almonds and maraschino liqueur.

Legend has it they were invented by a girl named Rafiola who was imprisoned in the Kamerlengo fortress until her love, a Trogir noble, came to rescue her. She baked him these little cakes ‘til the end of her days as a mark of her gratitude. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Restaurants Working hours of restaurants, cafes and bars may change (for the better, we believe), in coordination with the state or local health officials.

Adriana This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a crowd. Why? It’s a prime location for people watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays during summer time. Fairly priced!QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, www.hotel-adriana.com/restaurant/.

Open 07:00-23:00. (75 - 160kn). A ­P­G­B­J­ ArtiČok This very cosy and sleek restaurant is all about attention to detail. Platters, soups, risottos, tuna, rabbit, mussels, homemade macaroni, anti-pasta and so much more to offer. A genuine touch of hedonism on the menu and why not! Gluten free options are also available. FYI, the Čok in ArtiČok is Dalmatian slang for a small bite, so the whole name actually refers to the art of eating!QI‑2, Josipa Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-21) 81 93 24. Open 08:00-22:30.

(90 - 200kn). A ­P­G­S­J­K­ Bajamonti Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named after one of Split’s former mayors who built a theater in 1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time.

Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediterranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster of your choice from the fish tank!QC‑3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33, www.restoran-bajamonti. hr. Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. (80 - 450kn).

A­PGT­B­J­ Bepa Located in the heart of the Old Town Split, on a historical Pjaca, this charming street food restaurant is the perfect spot for a hearty brunch offering fab various breakfast dishes from egg Benedict to avo egg, and waffles. Lunch is a must here as the natural shade and the green wooden tables and chairs on the outdoor terrace, give an earthy cool green peaceful feel to the place. Light lunch options are bountiful as are the portions and include salads, daily pasta options and burgers and sandwiches. Everyone is welcomed so even the most rigorous vegans will have delicious choices here.

Visit for brunch from 07:00 - 17:00. At dinner time the team of the restaurant changes. Everything slows and becomes more romantic. The major delicacy on the menu are the speciality skewers grilled on open fire wood grill. The choices are many: tuna, shrimp, swordfish, beef, kefta, chicken… It is often a case to see guest come here twice a day as the quality and the price are a match and the scene is just the right amount of vibrant and historical.QI‑2, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46, www.bepa.hr. Open 08:00-24:00. (45 - 330kn).

A ­P­G­T­B­J­6­ Summer 2021

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Restaurants SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

J Old town location

Bistro Mazzgoon Nestled in a courtyard, the stone walls surrounding the outdoor terrace are tastefully decorated with greenery and fresh flowers adorn the tables, offering a homey and calming atmosphere. Delicious gnocchi and pasta dishes are offered, such as truffle pasta or pasta with sun dried tomatoes, as well as meat and fish dishes that will make your mouth water.QJ‑2, Bajamontijeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 987 77 80. Open 12:00-23:30. (120 - 220 kn). A ­P­G­E­6­ Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails An out of the ordinary pizzeria and cocktail bar. The pizza menu is brief, and the premium ingredients are sourced fresh in Italy or home-made onsite. The pizzas are light, soft, springy and tasty. Add a creative cocktail list and a vibrant interior (pizza oven clothed in golden mosaic) and you have a rather special experience.QC‑3, Obala Ante Trumbića 16, tel. (+385-) 099 417 71 91. Open 12:0023:30. (65 - 95kn). A­P­ Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was inspired by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The modern and classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls, which are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a mosaic tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A massive chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the middle of the room and extends over two floors. The restaurant offers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu is decided based on the season and the vegetables available. It’s located near Split’s market, which ensures that the ingredients are always fresh.QI‑2, Domaldova 8, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 77. Open 09:00-22:30. (110 - 210kn).

A ­P­G­­T­B­J­6­ Brasserie on 7 Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking the Adriatic. French gastronomy is combined with Croatian cuisine to create delicious dishes throughout the day.

Breakfast includes French toast, eggs benedict, croissants, acai bowl, chia pudding, egg white omelette, your typical English style breakfast and homemade granola with muesli. Early birds can waddle in from 07:30 - 11:00. Lunch and dinner specialties include spinach and grilled octopus salad, veal fillet, 300grm rib eye steak, cheese platters, tuna 12 Summer 2021

steak and the Fruit de mer are just some of the appetizing Mediterranean meals available.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 27 82 33, www. brasserieon7.com. Open 08:0-11:00, 12:00-23:30. (98 195 kn). A ­P­G­­T­B­J­6 Corto Maltese Freestyle Food Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal set within brick walls and a wooden bar that provide for an American-like setting thus juxtaposing the Mediterranean cuisine on offer.

You can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad to fish and sandwiches. Their versatile menu will satisfy everyone’s taste buds. For the biggest meal of the day (09:00 - 12:00) there are a variety of scrambled eggs and omelettes, as well as sandwiches, fruit and cottage cheese and freshly squeezed juice.QI‑2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21) 58 72 01/ (+385-) 092 160 10 00, www.cortomaltese.rocks. Open 09:00-23:00. (90 - 180kn). A ­P­G­X­T­B­E­J­6­ Duje This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre – Koteks. It’s a classic family eatery with a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines.QD‑2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385-21) 54 81 00, www.restoranduje.hr. Open 10:00-17:00. (50 - 150kn). A­P­G­­B­E­L­ Dvor Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls and black-and-white photography, while green, pink and purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place.

Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as delicious desserts.QE‑3, Put Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15 13. Open 12:00-23:00. (160 - 900kn). A­P­G­­T­B­6­ Fife Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.QH‑3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23. Open 07:00-23:00. (50 - 81kn). N ­P­G­­B­6­ Galerija Food Venture into this relatively new restaurant with a growing reputation for its vegetarian and vegan offer that is based on seitan and tofu dishes as well as fruit and veggies which are all purchased directly from local farmers. Healthy meals at top deals! The menu is seasonal and adapted to what is fresh. Other meals are typically Dalmatian and onus is placed on scrumptious desserts. Cosy with a splash of retro interior, small terrace too.QJ‑2, Vuškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 098 939 54 18. Open 08:00-11:00, 16:00-23:00.

(75 - 190kn). A ­P­G­B­6­W split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

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Restaurants Galija The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portions.QI‑2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 32, www.pizzeriagalija.com. Open 11:00-23:00. (65 100kn). A ­P­G­­B­6 Grego Levante Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an original stone wall as part of the minimalist décor! That aside, the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of freshness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish or shrimp. Candlelit tables give it spark and the service is A+.QD‑3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 204 22 22. Open 12:00-22:00. (70 - 150kn). N ­P­G­B­J­6­ Kantun Paulina Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right. There’s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the nighttime drama unfold.QI‑2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73.

Open 08:00-23:30; Sun 10:00-23:30. (24 - 43kn). N­P­G­B­

Photos by Višnja Arambašić

Kod Joze Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ‑2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97/(+385-21) 34 82 54. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. (50 150kn). A ­P­G­B­6­ Konoba Barkarola Looking for a typical Dalmatian tavern overlooking the sea, then Barkarola is it! And of course, the menu is well stocked with seafood as well as steak, risotto, carpaccio, salad and mega platters. The selection of Croatian wines is considerable especially those from Dalmatia. With the marina in the foreground, it’s a nice place to wind down after a day of sightseeing.QE‑3, Šetalište Kalafata 2, tel. (+385-) 097 629 11 74, www.barkarola.hr/. Open 08:0024:00. (65 - 180kn). A ­P­G­B­S­L­­K Konoba Nevera Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in a nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman statue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and gorgeous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A great place for when you’re in the mood for Mediterranean seafood cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus salad and grilled fish.QE‑3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385-21) 38 87 36/(+385-) 099 501 74 85. Open 11:00-23:00. (60 160kn). A ­P­G­B­6­

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Restaurants

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Restaurants Konoba Varoš It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless.QH‑2, Ban Mlad‑ enova 9, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, www.konobavaros.com.

Open 09:00-23:00. (60 - 130kn). A­P­G­B­ Ma:toni This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterranean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with a contemporary twist.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 27 84 57, www.ma-toni.com. Open 12:3023:00; closed Mon. (78 - 140 kn). A­P­G­T­B­6­ Marshal Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and picturesque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast combo meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice, such as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Breakfast, to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner, they offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as well as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes.

For a perfect end to any meal, order from a selection of homemade cakes, desserts and ice cream.QI‑2, Zadar‑ ska 13 (Hotel Marmont), tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60, www. marmonthotel.com/restoran. Open 07:00-22:00. (90 250kn). A ­PG­­B­L­6­ Maslina A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas and pasta.QI‑2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88. Open 12:00-23:30. (50 - 150kn).

A ­P­G­B­J­6 NoStress Bistro Located on the famous Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots that adorn the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. It’s a great spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion trends walking by the square while nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian region. For your first meal of the day, the breakfast offer (08:00 - 11:30) consists of omelette, toast, eggs benedict and a hot cappuccino. Lunch and beyond includes wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese and beef fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce.

During the summer season, it’s open until 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a cocktail at night.QI‑2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 099 498 18 88, www.bistro-nostress. com. Open 08:00-23:30. (80 - 200kn). A ­­B­E­J­6­ 16 Summer 2021

Photos by Višnja Arambašić

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Sardines Savur

Oily fish If you find yourself on a Friday at s fish market, you will surely notice the largest queue at the stands selling fresh sardines and anchovies. It is these types of oily fish that are sold the most, both because they are rather cheap, but more importantly, extremely healthy. In saying that, even if small oily fish such as sardines may catch the eye it is dentex, bream and bass that are highly sought after. So, it would seem that people survive on oily fish whilst dreaming of eating white fish, and for that matter, large tasty portions of it. To put it mildly, this is a somewhat unfair attitude towards a category of fish that has nurtured and raised generations along the entire coastline.

It has high nutritional value, and historically it has fed many people in these parts because it is cheap and widely available.

Ingredients 500g sardines 250g purple onion 0.75l wine vinegar 150ml olive oil 3 bay leaves 1 sprig rosemary 1 teaspoon sugar parsley leaf sharp flour oil, salt, peppercorns Preparation steps Clean the sardines (remove the head and flakes). Add salt, roll in flour and fry in oil. Place on kitchen paper to soak up excess fat. In another pan on olive oil, brown the onion chopped into crescents. Season with salt, pepper, bay leaf and rosemary. Add raisins: and if you don’t like them, you can do without and the boiled savur. Make savur from olive oil, yeast, water, a little parsley, lemon zest, a little sugar, sprigs of rosemary, bay leaf and peppercorns. Place the roasted sardines in a bowl and pour the chilled savur over them. You can keep sardines prepared in this way for up to a week or two in the refrigerator Serving Serve cold and garnish with lemon slices.

Advice You can also prepare a larger blue fish in the same way, just cut it into smaller pieces.

Oily fish is not just to be thrown on the barbecue, but one can work hundreds of miracles with it. We suggest a simple dish, as prepared on the Adriatic islands, and it can stay in the fridge for a long time and be eaten as a cold appetizer. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Restaurants Read more reviews online: split.inyourpocket.com

Noštromo Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.QI‑2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, www. restoran-nostromo.hr. Open 11:00-23:00. (150 - 250kn).

A ­P­G­B­6­ Rizzo Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a midday or midnight snack.QI‑2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+38521) 34 83 49/(+385-) 091 574 07 64, www.rizzo.com. hr. Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. (12 - 30kn).

N­B Sexy Cow With rave reviews online, ‘Sexy Cow’ is a great addition to the city food offer and the menu is packed with awesome ‘wraps & tortillas’ filled with heaps of ingredients, local too. The beef, veg and chicken wraps rock, the French-fries and sauces are also a great addition. Whereas the Nutella Boom Shake is a quench for hunger. As the locals say, come and visit the ‘new cow on the block’.QI‑1, Zrinsko Frankopan‑ ska 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 07 82, www.sexy-cow.com.

Open 11:00-23:00. (48 - 69kn). A ­P G­T B­S ­ J­­K­ Superfood Juice&Smoothie Bar Health is wealth and this bar is on par with the best!

Opened in 2016, it’s open from morning till night and the ‘a.m.’ menu includes omelette with goat’s cheese to healthy bread with bio marmalade. Meals at ‘p.m.’ include tuna pizza, veggie burgers, raw cakes, superfood, stews, salads and more. Juices & smoothies are mega!

Gluten free, vegans and vegetarians ought to relish this place.QF‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 13, tel. (+385-21) 67 12 55. Open 08:00-22:30; closed Sun. (25 - 100 kn).

A ­PGT­B­S­­K Šperun A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet.

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QH‑2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99/(+385-) 091 555 42 62. Open 09:00-23:00. (45 - 180kn). A ­P­ G­B­J­ Toto’s Burger Bar A buzz for burgers ranging from classic types to original and innovative sorts can be had; both meat and veggie.

Spaghetti, soups, juices and salads are also on the menu!

Their breakfast and dessert offer has just been released, lots of omelettes & yoghurt cups, as well as sugar and gluten free cakes.QH‑2/3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+385-21) 31 40 40. Open 11:00-23:45. (48 - 95 kn).

N ­P S6 Up Café An ultra-modern chic oasis of healthy food and natural beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. Rise and shine for breakfast which includes freshly squeezed juice, burritos, cakes, pies, buckwheat porridge, and oatmeal.

This healthy cuisine offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, these taste great along with bio-fruit juice or organic tea.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www.upcafe.hr.

Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-17:00; closed Sun. (65 75kn). N ­P­G­­B­V­6­ Zlatna ribica Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in.QI‑2, Kraj Svete Marije 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Open 06:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. (50 - 90kn). N­P ­G­ Zoí It is said that you should let go of the past but restaurant Zoí definitely doesn’t. In fact, the Emperor’s dining room was once right next to the restaurant, giving this place a special historical feel. Zoí (Greek for “life”) offers a unique experience, embedding food from the ancient trade routes from Lebanon to Greece, Italy, France and the Balkans. Cultures and music entwine with wine and delicacies that are fine, and the décor is all stone and modern elegance. The terrace overlooking the sea is sublime with the vibe of the town just beneath you.

That this is an unforgettable and sensual experience is now recognised by Michelin, who awarded Zoí two forks and spoons denoting comfort and quality. QJ‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 23, tel. (+38521) 63 74 91, www.zoi.hr. Open 17:00-23:30. (180 280kn). A ­P­T­B­J­6­

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Restaurants

Luka Icecream Archives

sweet treats Bobis - Riva A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city’s citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as it’s right on the Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan.QI‑3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20, www. bobis.hr/. Open 06:00-24:00. N ­G­B Goluzarije Got a sweet tooth? Want something light’n’fresh? Goluzarije is a funky little patisserie/cake and coffee shop that prides itself exclusively on traditional cakes made according to traditional recipes.QI/D‑2, Ulica Zrinsko Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385-21) 41 24 12. Open 07:0023:00.

Luka Ice-cream & Cakes Known as one of the best places for ice cream in Split, these delicious homemade ice cream flavours will have you coming back over and over again for more. Every day they produce new flavours made with fresh ingredients, so you’ll never get bored trying all the flavours. As well, they also serve tasty pie, cheesecake and smoothies.QI‑1, Petra Svačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 908 06 78. Open 08:0024:00. N ­P­G­B­J­6­ facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

O’š kolač?

Oš kolač is paradise for lovers of fine pastries, cakes, pancakes, biscuits and handmade creams. Pastry chef Tea Mamut has served famous movie stars whilst working abroad and now returns home where she combines Dalmatian recipes with a refreshing modern day outlook whilst using a selection of local fresh ingredients. So why not treat yourself to something sweet?QI‑1, Ćiril-Metodova 4, tel. (+385-21) 48 04 44/(+385-) 099 480 44 45, www.oskolac.hr/. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. A ­P­G­B­J­6­ Stari Plac Pancakes If you’re feeling peckish and savouring something sweet, then head to ‘Stari Plac’ which has quickly become a fav amongst ‘Splićani’. With a whopping 60 salty and sweet pancakes on offer, you’re bound to go haywire with such abundance.

They also serve gluten free and protein pancakes with oats, not to mentioned freshly squeezed juice and ice-cream. How can you resist that? Also at Boškovićeva 9, E-3.QI‑1, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-21) 54 00 88. Open 07:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-24:00. A ­P­T­B­S­J­ Tradicija This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition – just as the name itself!QI‑2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+38521) 36 10 70. Open 08:00-20:00; closed Sun. N ­P­S Summer 2021

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Hangin’ Out Fabrique - FUN & BBQ Pub Located centrally in the historical palace, the sheer interior oozes all that is old ‘n’ new and the lighting really sets the tone. Beer wise, there are 40 or so international beers and top Croatian craft beers. Fabrique has DJs spinning tunes every evening and you can stay all night or drop in for some warm up drinks before a night out.QI‑2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 098 175 12 71. Open 10:0024:00. A­P­G­­B­W Fro (isprid banke) Can’t miss this Café on the Riva! Large exterior, small interior, large range of drinks, small wait for service! Fro is all about kicking up the heels, enjoying the scenic view of the harbour and watching people go by. Cocktails, coffees, fresh OJ, beers and wine are all standard.QI‑2/3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 43 21. Open 07:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00.

Gaga In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk.QI‑2, Iza Lože 5. Open 07:00-24:00. N­P­B­W

Fabrique Archives

Working hours of restaurants, cafes and bars may change (for the better, we believe), in coordination with the state or local health officials.

Antique Bar Positioned on the Riva, Antique Bar entwines a tinge of classical design with modern appeal. There seems like a touch of hedonism is in the air and it’s a perfect place to chill for coffee or other finer beverages. Choose to sit indoors or outdoors as people pass on by.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, tel. (+385-) 099 3322 281. Open 08:00-24:00. A ­P­­B­E­W D16 Specialty Coffee Split’s coffee haven is in fine form with amazing reviews on social media. Positioned in the heart of town, D16 Coffee serves 100% Arabica freshly roasted using specialty coffee beans. You can also take your coffee to-go in biodegradable cups or sit down for a break from sightseeing.

If you want a cold drink, the cold brew coffee is a hit. It’s not pricey and the quality is excellent. Free wifi available and do check out the mural inside showcasing the history of coffee. QJ‑2, Dominisova 16, tel. (+385-) 095 800 54 67, www.d16coffee.com. Open 07:00-21:00. A­P­G­ 20 Summer 2021

Galerija Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole range of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut cakes, strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those pursuing something stronger have numerous fruit cocktails, local/international beers, wines and liquors to keep you jostling!QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomis‑ lava 15, tel. (+385-) 098 967 03 11. Open 08:00-23:00.

N ­P­G­­B­J­6­W Kalafatić Caffe bar/Restaurant If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the bay and boats and the smell of the sea, it’s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice beach.

QE‑3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-) 091 444 10 01/(+385-21) 38 91 01. Open 07:00-24:00. P­G­­B­6­W Kavana Procaffe A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping a coffee with an outlook toward the Kaštela towns and the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, there’s nothing better than sitting here and watching the passing sailboats and rowboats.QC‑2, Špinutska 67, tel. (+385-21) 38 43 23, www.procaffe.hr. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00.

A ­P­G­­B­6­W Lvxor A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor’s location on the Peristyle is split.inyourpocket.com

Hangin’ Out stellar. And the services on offer match the quality of the location. There’s wireless Internet, magazines and daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions are placed on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+38521) 34 10 82, www.lvxor.hr. Open 08:00-00:00.

A ­P GBJ­W Moon bar Moon Bar has quickly become a hit amongst ‘Splićani’ with lots of theme nights, DJs and live bands performing throughout the year. There is always action aplenty and the modern and futuristic interior adds to the ambience. Lighting is effective with laser like rays spreading across the venue, you might be packed like a sardine at times but that’s what creates the atmosphere.QE‑3, Matice hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-) 095 595 37 99. Open 07:00-24:00. A ­P ­ G­­B­E­L­ Šetač The seven axes embedded in pieces of wood lining the back wall are what initially attracted our interest, but, alas, they remained a mystery. Perhaps you can corner a server and make them spill the beans regarding their origins.

Axes not with standing, the bar’s large outdoor seating area and small but stylish interior make for a pleasant enough place to have a coffee and check out the passersby.QI‑1, Poljana Tina Ujevića bb. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00. P­­B­W Teak caffe Yep, the interior is all done up in teak and lined on one side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings.QJ‑2, Majs‑ tora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 78 20 10. Open 08:00-24:00; closed Sun. N ­P­G­B­6­W Vanilla Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. The club was recently renovated and is now open only on Friday and Saturday nights.QC‑2, Mediteranskih igara 21, tel. (+385-) 099 831 30 50. Open Fri, Sat 21:00-24:00. A­P­ G­­B­W Žbirac It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!QD‑3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b. Open 07:3024:00. N­P­G­­B­W facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Sightseeing essential split Do you know what is so eloquent about Split? The possibility to stroll through the Diocletian palace for free, to drink coffee inside the palace, to enjoy the sunshine, listen to the tender sounds of klape singing, to walk through this place where ancient people used to live.

Diocletian’s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt.

Diocletian’s palace has become the quintessential “living museum”, as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex.

Photo by Samantha Hentosh/Unsplash

The part of the palace known as “the basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history.

Now, it’s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures.

QI/J‑2.

Fish Market (Ribarnica) Upon entering, you might feel compelled to crack the classic, “Something’s fishy here…” joke, but please refrain – it’s been said before. What you can do is check out the hustle and bustle of weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has been going on at this site since the fish market moved from its original location in the south-eastern part of the palace complex in 1843. The interesting smells emanating from the fish market might be compounded with another distinctive odor wafting through the air, that of sulphur.

There’s a sulphur spa nearby whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of fish, creating a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas.QI‑2, Obrov 5. Open 06:0013:00; Sun 06:00-12:00.

Green Market (Pazar) Any traveller worth their salt wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and Split’s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol’ small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds and ends.QJ‑3.

Grgur Ninski In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).QJ‑2.

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Sightseeing Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B‑2/3.

Riva If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching. Split’s Riva continues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.

The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ‑2.

Veli Varoš Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.QH‑2. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Sightseeing museums Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including prehistoric, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC‑2, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, www.armus. hr. Open 09:00-14:00, 16:00-20:00; closed Sun. Admis‑ sion 20/10 kn.

Croatian Maritime Museum Split (Hrvatski pomorski muzej Split) Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It’s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka.

To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks – a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress.

QK‑2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46, www.hpms.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn.

Ethnographic Museum Split (Etnografski muzej Split) If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years.QJ‑3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, www. etnografski-muzej-split.hr. Open 09:30-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn. Vestibul 5 kn.

Game of Thrones Museum The majestic HBO series has had many of its scenes recorded throughout Croatia, including Split. In-fact, only a stone throw from the museum itself is Diocletian’s basements where Khaleesi put the dragons in captivity. The 24 Summer 2021

museum includes weapon and garment replicas, several thematic rooms dedicated to key cities and characters, photographs taken on the film set, Sandor and more.

Step aside and make space for some photos with the likes of Daenerys, Arya Stark, Jon Snow, Hodor and many others.QI‑2, Bosanska ulica 9, tel. (+385-) 099 694 03 12, www.gameofthronesmuseum.hr. Open 09:0021:00. J Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiouslyinspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962. A fiveminute walk further west along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a 16th-century agricultural fortified property bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture.

QB‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+38521) 34 08 00, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 20kn Children, 40kn Adults, 70kn Family.

Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39 01/(+38521) 32 39 09, www.mhas-split.hr. Open 09:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. Admission 20kn/10kn. split.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Galerija Meštrović Split SCULPTURE MUSEUM

www.mestrovic.hr

Museum of Fine Arts (Galerija umjetnina) Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over.

The museum’s temporary exhibitions blending local and international artists, site-specific audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art & Wine workshops open for applications, all add to the highly interesting and enriching experience. Current information on all the upcoming events can be viewed at the museum’s website.

QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 17, www.galum.hr. Open 10:00-21:00; closed Mon. Ad‑ mission 30/20 kn Children, 60/40 kn Adults.

Museum of Illusions The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s a thrill for the whole family. In the heart of Splits’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of exhibitions that will change the way you see the world around you.

Come take a tour of a place like no other. You won’t believe your eyes! Ticket price: Adults: 70,00 kn, Children (under 15 facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

years old): 50,00 kn, Children under 5 years old: free, Family Ticket (2 adults + 2 children under 15 years old): 200,00 knQAndrija Kačić Miošić 2, tel. (+385 21) 48 00 14. Open 09:00-22:00. J Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split.QJ‑2, Papalićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, www.mgst. net. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission 20/10 kn.

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Split sinj

Surroundings

To fully appreciate the stark majesty of the mid-Dalmatian landscape, you need to spend at least some time inland.

The coast, with its sweeping pebble beaches and imperious mountains is only one side of the Dalmatian story.

Delve beyond the coastal peaks and you will come across a dramatic combination of stony plateaus, fertile vales, river canyons, and mountains even more imposing than the ones you’ve just crossed.

Thirty-five kilometres inland from Split, the easy-going town of Sinj is the ideal place from which to explore this bewitching landscape. Sprawled across a fertile green carpet of rich agricultural land known as the Sinj Field (Sinjsko polje), the town is surrounded by the stark majesty of grey-brown highlands; while the furrowed gorges carved Photos by Sinj Tourist Board Archives

out of lime stone by the Cetina River lie only a short distance to the south and east. Whether you are into hiking, biking, fishing or simply looking, it’s an exhilarating place to be.

Sinj is also a town of immense historical symbolism, It owes its central place in the national narrative to the heroic defense of the town against an Ottoman army in 1715. The battle took place on the Feast of the Assumption, and Croatian victory is often attributed to the divine intervention of the Virgin Mary, whose fifteenth-century portrait is proudly displayed in the local parish church, a magnet for pilgrims to this day. Indeed Sinj remains southern Croatia’s most visited Marian shrine, with hundreds of thousands of celebrants making their way here annually to mark the Feast of the Assumption on August 15.

The famous battle of 1715 is celebrated every year by the test of horsemanship known as the Sinjska Alka, when riders attempt to spear a dangling talismanic disk in front of large crowds over a weekend in early August. Descended from age-old equine competitions and featuring brightlyclad participants in distinctive traditional costume, the Alka is a key component in Croatian national identity and comes under the protection of the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Best place to learn about the Alka is at the award-winning Sinjska Alka Museum, an engaging mixture of traditional exhibits and modern multimedia presentation. The recently refurbished Museum of the Cetina Region (Muzej cetinske krajine) will give you the lowdown on the region’s rich heritage, with a colourful display that takes in folklore and local crafts – including the traditional hand-turned pottery made in the nearby village of Potravlje.

Historical resonances aside, Sinj lays good claim to being the activity capital of inland Dalmatia. It has a hippodrome that hosts equine sports throughout the year, and an airfield that hosts parachuting and gliding events. A mountain ridge near the village of Hrvace, just north of town, is the starting point for breathtaking descents by paraglider.

Sinj’s surrounding area offers a wealth of hiking and cycling trails. Potential targets for explorers should perhaps start with Visoka, the 892m peak above town. Topped by tenmetre-high cross, it’s a popular target for pilgrims as well as recreational hikers. Offering a bit more of a challenge is the 1509-metre Svilaja to the northwest, the summit of which provides breathtaking views of the surrounding highlands.

Clearly visible to the northeast is the Dinara range, site of Croatia’s highest peak (the 1831-metre Sinjal) and also a protected area under the Dinara Nature Park.

For those into team-building activities and social sports, several local agencies offer zip-line adventures, paintball sessions and trips on local rivers.

Extraordinarily rich in landscape, culture and opportunities for an active holiday, the Sinj region is waiting to be discovered. More information is available on the local tourist board’s site www.visitsinj.com.

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Split Surroundings

North of Split Some might say that Trogir is the ‘mini-me’ of Split, it’s a fine pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its medieval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and squares. Our tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has grand views for taking photos. For another step back in time the town of Solin, which is an ancient Roman settlement and happens to be the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian still has its well preserved amphitheatre, town gate, fortress and other historical buildings.

Čiovo Čiovo, a mountainous island in central Dalmatia, extends eastward and encloses the Kaštela bay. Well-known towns and villages on the island include Trogir, Arbanija and Slatina, as well as Okrug Gornji and Donji. The island is connected to the mainland by a small bridge in the old center of Trogir. Okrug, located on the western side of Čiovo, is made up of two districts, the Upper and Lower. The name of this place comes from the Croatian word for “circle” since both places are distributed along a circular bay. The numerous bays and beaches have made this area one of the most popular tourist destinations in Croatia. Along with beautiful spots for swimming, a wide range of sporting activities are offered on the beaches, such as scuba diving, water skiing, paragliding, as well as facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

fitness centers and tennis courts. After a long day spent relaxing in the sunshine, there are numerous restaurants and bars along the coast, with great music, for a fun night out.

Kaštela Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as ‘Kaštela’ (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing to (Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Kambelovac, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Novi, Kaštel Štafilić). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. Of particular interest is the newly built Marina Kaštela which accommodates private and charter boats. In Kaštel Sućurac, sits the oldest defensive fortress which was built in 1392 by the Archbishop of Split A. Gvaldo. In Kaštel Gomilica in front of the church, there is an oak tree over 700 years old, under which, according to the legend, Croatian king Zvonimir rested. And that’s just the beginning. All are accessible by car.

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Split Surroundings klis One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A - 1 highway. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction. There is a café right below the fortress.

Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress. The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely.

Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland.

Solin Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea.

One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early history. According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town’s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of “Croatia’s Pompeii”.

Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you’re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the bestkept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.

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Split Surroundings Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0) 21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

www.dalmatia.hr

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info@dalmatia.hr

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Split Surroundings TROGIR Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir’s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.

Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.

While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240.

The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s history. While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the city’s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

South of Split Ahoy matey! Welcome to the city of pirates in Omiš, yet another bastion of ancient pride. Choose from adrenaline to serenity. Omiš is home to the river Cetina which hosts action packed adventure thrills with zip lines, canoeing, white water rafting, abseiling, cliff jumping, waterfalls and more. Pulsating! Then strolling through the old town one embarks on age old churches, squares and the odd seagull ducking for shade. Beaches close by are clean as a whistle and face some of the islands.

Podstrana Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split. It’s well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch along a 9km coastline making it an attractive location to visit.

Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive orchards, 30 Summer 2021

vineyards and numerous peach trees create a beautiful Mediterranean town. The first settlements in this area can be traced back to the ancient Roman settlement Pituntium. The turbulent history of this area, of the Greek, Roman and Turkish invasions, can be seen from the numerous archaeological excavations and the remains of buildings and monuments from the different time periods. Historical monuments, such as the Church of St. George, the Castle of Cindro and the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua from the 18th century, are still standing today in between the various hotels and apartments.

Podstrana Tourist Board QDavora Jurasa 2, tel. (+385-21) 33 38 44, www. visitpodstrana.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 08:00-14:00.

Islands Island hopping has been a craze of late with tour agencies offering daily to weekly trips. Though they may all look the same, each island is characterised by a rich cultural and historical heritage, tradition and cuisine. Olive groves, wineries, church towers and stone piers are part of the charm they hold. Each has their own dialect and story to tell. The beaches are second to none with Brač, Hvar and Šolta just some of the pristine islands to visit, and with a different story to tell.

Brač Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest.

If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač’s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač.

Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća.

The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings

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Split Surroundings that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic.

Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It’s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible – a tort lawyer’s dream.

There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Supetar and Donji Humac.

Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

Supetar Tourist Information Centre QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, www.supetar.hr.

Open 08:00-22:00.

Hvar You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you’re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar. If you’re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city.

Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.

Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.

The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here. The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns.

Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view of below. Going around Hvar, you’ll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St Stephen’s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by local masters Karlić and Pomenić and the centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form. On the northern slope above the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th 32 Summer 2021

century. On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well known for it’s craftsmanship of unique lace made from agave fibres.

Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough exploration.

Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route that passes alongside the island and today’s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).

Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call Vrboska ‘’Little Venice’’ due to it’s small bridges with which it is connected.

Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties ‘Bogdanuša’ and ‘Drenkuša’ which can not be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali’ due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality.

Šolta Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish.

The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to split.inyourpocket.com

Brač, Photo by Andreas Ahrens

Split Surroundings Vis

sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well.

The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone. Šolta Tourist Info Center QPodkuća 8, Grohote, tel. (+385-21) 65 46 57, www. visitsolta.com. Open 08:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of indescribable beauty.

Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it’s an excellent place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.

The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel.

For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split.

The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don’t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city.

Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia.

One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija’ (Our Lady’s Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis.

The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of St Cyprian (Sv. Ciprijana) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja.

Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below.

The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its exceptional form. Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn’t be the marvel that it is.

And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and enjoy a true marine experience!

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Split Surroundings

Photos by Omiš Tourist Board Archives

omiš Originating in the Dinara mountain range, at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the River Cetina winds a tortuous course through the countryside until it finally empties into the Adriatic. The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and picturesque town that is the centre of what has become known as “the Omiš Riviera”.

However, things were not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, who patrolled the waters in the area in special boats called “arrows”, so named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily into the mouth of the river.

While it’s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fasttraveling pirate ships, there’s still plenty of adventure to

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be had in Omiš. The mountainous areas around the town make for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline blue, and the history of the town can be explored in the remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of Omiš used to defend the town against attacks from Turkish invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far as the 13th century.

In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are located within the old city walls and include the church of St. Michael, the Church of the Holy Ghost and the Church of St. Rocco. The remaining churches are located outside of the old city walls and include the Church of St. Peter, the Church of St. Luke and the Church of St. Mary, located at the old Omiš cemetery. The Church of Our Lady of Carmel is at the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the Church of St. John in Borak. The For-

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Split Surroundings

tress (Tvrđava) is located on top of Dinara and offers an enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon of the Cetina to the islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta, to the Dalmatian region of Poljica.

And when you’re finished exploring the natural beauty of Omiš and its history, the town’s central location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your coastal adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of terrorising the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš.

There is no shortage of activities available across the region.

Dugi Rat tourist board have a comprehensive website to keep you appraised of everything going on, from what beaches suit your needs, to diving classes and diving tours, to more adventurous activities such as paragliding. Just make sure you’re wearing suitable footwear and that you’re carrying water.

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Top Sights Around Split

Blaca, Photo by Miljenko Katavić

Blaca Blaca is perhaps the most stunning sight on the Brač, and is certainly among the most incredible cultural monuments on the Adriatic. This inhospitable rocky gorge became the home of an order of Glagolitic monks who nurtured the Croatian language using the oldest Slavic alphabet. In 2007, the complex was entered on the tentative list of UNESCO monuments of cultural heritage. The hermitage remains very close to peoples’ hearts, with a pilgrimage taking place every year on the first Saturday after the Feast of the Assumption. This is a wonderful place to visit, this is a place that puts in focus the power of human endeavour, and a place of peace and hope that strengthens the spirit. How to get here: trips are organised from Bol approaching Blaca bay from the sea, from where you have a 25 minute walk. From Nerežišća it’s a 10 minute drive to Dragovode followed by a 30 minute walk. It is a must that you bring sports attire and water to keep 36 Summer 2021

you hydrated.QBrač, tel. (+385-) 091 516 46 71, www. czk-brac.hr. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admis‑ sion 40/10kn.

Blue Cave Located on the Island of Biševo, the Blue Cave is an amazing natural phenomena. The interior of the cave and the sea below are a silver-blue colour. Rays of sun peak through a crack in the cave, which reflect into the sea and create beautiful light effects on top of the water. It’s only a 15 min drive by speedboat from Komiža, a coastal town on the western coast of the Island of Vis.QBiševo.

Cetina River Canyon Thanks to this position at the mouth of the Cetina, Omiš and the nearby villages offer many activities which can turn your holiday into an unforgettable adventure. One of these is rafting on the Cetina. If you are a swimmer, experienced skippers will help you negotiate the rapids split.inyourpocket.com

Top Sights Around Split and you’ll feel as though you’re flying along in the dinghy.

Rafting trips start from the Pavić bridge, which was built during the time of the Emperor Franz Joseph. A speciality of this region is fried frogs’ legs wrapped in slices of prosciutto and cooked in red wine with rosemary. There’s also poljički soparnik which is a listed item of cultural heritage.

You can try some of these specialities at the Radmanove Mlinice day trip site in the Cetina river canyon (6km from Omiš).QOmiš, www.visitomis.hr.

Jakšić Gallery Jakšić gallery is an exhibition space in Donji Humac on the island of Brač. The artistic family Jakšić has a 115 year long tradition in stone shaping. Their story begins in 1903 when their ancestor opened the first stone - carving workshop. Dražen Jakšić, artistically educated, inherits a stone - carving workshop from his father and modernizes it according to time.

Today Jakšić family consists of four members, all of whom are educated in the art, so it was necessary to create a space in which they can exhibit their works. Jakšić gallery was built in 2008, in the yard of the family house, where their grandfather first exhibited his works. Beside the gallery are workshops and ateliers where it is possible to see the artists in work, as well as the process of creating works of art and stone shaping.

In the gallery you can find: unique jewelery from semiprecious stones and silver made by fashion designer Ida Stipčić Jakšić, stone sculptures by the academic sculptor Lovre Jakšić, paintings by dr.art. Dina Jakšić Pavasović and various usable and decorative objects made of stone.QDonji Humac 75, Nerežišća, Brač island, tel. (+385-) 98 42 24 99, www. galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; closed Sun. Sunday is by appointment. A Museum Alka of Sinj Nominated for European Museum of the Year, the Museum of Alka represents a 300 year traditional equestrian race where spearmen target their lances at a hanging metal ring in full gallop. Of note are the uniforms, equipment and weapons used, as well as historic statues and rules that have remained since the beginning. The procession preceding the Alka and the reconstruction of the Battle of Sinj from 1715 pays homage to the grand history behind this age old city.QPut Petrovca 12, Sinj, tel. (+385-21) 44 47 30, www.alka.hr/. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 40/20 kn.

The Hvar Historic Theatre Welcome to Europe’s oldest public theatre which happens to be on an island, and not mainland. Over 400 years old, it has withstood battles and its Renaissance style makes it one of the finest kept in the Mediterranean. After further renovations, the doors have been reopened and now theatre shows and gallery exhibits give this building a true sense of spirit. QJurja Matijevića 20, Hvar. Open 11:0017:00.

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Cetina river canyon, Photo by Omiš Tourist Board Archives Summer 2021 37

Top Sights Around Split

The Stari Grad Plain Croatia’s 7th location protected by UNESCO, the Stari Grad Plain is located on the Island of Hvar and is an agricultural landscape that was established by ancient Greek colonists in the 4th century BC. Remarkably, it still remains in its original form and is still in use today where grapes and olives are grown in the fields. It’s an amazing sight to visit and be able to view the ancient Greek system for agricultural production.QHvar, www.msg.hr/en/stari-gradplain-stari-grad-unesco-world-heritage/.

The Vranjača Cave (Špilja Vranjača) The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The first, the existence of which was already known in the 19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in 1903

by Stipe Punda, who was the owner of this plot of land.

This part consists of a system of nine smaller chambers in colours ranging from green through blue, some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals. The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant temperature of 15ºC all year round. Vranjača is suitable for visits by tourists, with steps, rope handrails, walkways and lighting. It is supervised and has a car park. The cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature lovers from all over.

The cave, Vranjača, is located in the foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the northern side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m path to the entrance of the cave.

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The cave is open from April 1st to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June, July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September), 10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrangement (November - March). Guided tours, which last about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385-) 098 74 90 00 for more information.Q50kn/20kn.

Via Brattia Via Brattia, a 140 km-long hiking trail, encircles almost the entire island of Brač making it an exquisite tourist attraction.

The trail connects the 12 most attractive historical locations and some of the most picturesque places on the island, challenging the recreationists and mountaineers who can collect stamps at each of the 12 points. The trail passes through the center of Supetar, Mirac, Sutivan, Bobovišćanamoru, Ložišća, Milna, Murvica, Bol, Sumartin, Povlja, Pučišća, Postira, Škrip, and some of the island’s most beautiful beaches and bays (Zlatni rat, Farska, Murvica, Lovrečina, Smrka, etc.)

Since the trail is circular, it is marked both ways and you can start your hike from any of the above-mentioned settlements, simply by following the blue-white blazes. If you decide to do the whole trail, it would be wise to plan a sleepover at some of the small towns on the map, where you can stock up on water and food supply. There is a map of the trail that will come in handy for all who decide to take up the challenge. Find the route map in the tourist information centers of the island of Brač. split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera Discover best places Kalalarga (Široka ulica) Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga – a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalmatian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned lanterns.QMakarska.

Kostanić’s Grave (Kostanića grob) The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding these stones, which date from the period between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend.

Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the daughter of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a duel which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news. This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr. Drvenik.

there, from Makarska take the road to Vrgorac; the Visitor Centre is 6 km away. Do be aware the road presents challenging driving conditions. Visit info for opening times and additional safety information.

A word of warning: it is easy to underestimate the challenges this mountain range presents. Do not head off for a trip into the mountains without hiking shoes, plenty of water, a map, sun protection, a mobile phone and clothing that will make it easy for rescue services to spot you if you get lost. Do not go alone. In August 2020 an experienced hiker was saved after more than 20 days stranded on dangerous terrain; rescue services had lost all hope of finding him alive. Stick to the designated paths!

Photo by Makarska Tourist Board Archives

Monument to the Tourist (Spomenik turistu) Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes, it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska.

Skywalk Biokovo Put your moonboots back in your backpack, Luke: this ain’t no walk on the moon but a fantastic new way to enjoy hiking on one of Croatia’s most magnificent mountain ranges Biokovo. Soaring skywards from the fringes of the turquoise Adriatic, Biokovo is the highest mountain range closest to the coast in the entire Mediterranean. An awe-inspiring sight, Biokovo lends the Makarska Riviera the interplay of blue sea, sky and white stone that creates such a wonderful stage for those carefree seaside summers. However, the Biokovo Nature Park hides within it a wealth of natural and cultural treasures. A wonderful new viewing platform allowing you to experience the majesty of Biokovo was opened in July 2020 – the Skywalk. A horseshoe-shaped glass walkway juts out over a precipitous slope opening out towards the coast, affording breath-taking views. There is also a pillar showing a geological cross-section of the mountain with a legend showing the ages and types of stone. The Skywalk is right next to the Biokovo Nature Park Visitor Centre. To get facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Makarska Riviera Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip don Mihovila Pavlinovića) For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.

And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival, a political movement campaigning for the right to selfdetermination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.

Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole) Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in 1999.QBaška Voda.

Stone Tower (Kamena kula) During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than 200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived in constant fear of raids. It’s not unusual, driving around the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings, creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake.

QGornja Podaca, nr. Gradac.

The Antun Gojak Town Gallery (Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka) The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988

by Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town gallery in the building of the former grammar school. Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s cultural life.QUlica don Mi‑ hovila Pavlinovića 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, www.galerija-antun-gojak.hr. Depends on exhi‑ bitions. Admission free.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely monastery you see today came into being. The old mon40 Summer 2021

astery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr. Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions, is a respected institution with good links with similar museums around the world. The Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevcisplit.hr.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej Makarska) Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs – a large branch of the animal kingdom that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of invertebrate fossils. There’s also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection of shells includes some spectacular specimens from the Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world. So, whether you’re a budding biologist or a curious passer-by, there’s sure to be something that will take your breath away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 12 56/(+385-) 099 885 21 65. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admis‑ sion 15/10 kn.

The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin) Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsaturated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi.

The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela) A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity.

The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela. split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera The Beach is Calling...

We suggest you explore the beaches and towns of Brela and Tučepi on the Makarska Riviera.

Photo by Brela Tourist Board Archives

Brela A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump in and enjoy them is irresistible.

This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches here have won numerous international accolades.

Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head up the mountainside towards the older parts of the settlement.

A local society is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the culture of old Brela: it’s well worth taking a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into their visitor centre where you can find out about the old churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted around.

Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

species, incredible views and adventure sports challenges.

You’ll find maps and information at the information centre that’s also located there.

Brela Tourist Board, Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. (+385-21) 61 84 55, info@brela.hr, www.brela.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Tučepi A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska Riviera – a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling easy access into the dazzling blue water.

Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera – the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of invasion.

You’ll find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone buildings.

In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911 became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers’ Collective, founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father Mate Šimić. It is probably due to the work done by him and the association that Tučepi’s olive oil is rumoured to be the best on this stretch of coast.

Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century. Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta rooftops, there’s a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St. Anthony’s day (Tučepi’s patron saint), while the ka Kultura festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići and Podstup.

Tučepi Tourist Board, Donji ratac 30, tel. (+385-21) 62 31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.t-com.hr, www.tucepi.com.

Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Photo by Tučepi Tourist Board Archives

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Shopping Break Time - Nautical Bracelets For an exceptional souvenir from Split you have to visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great accessories! QI‑2, Trogirska 8, tel. (+385-) 097 681 39 77, www.nautical-bracelets. com. Open 09:00-23:00.

Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage. Also at Mihovilova širina 7 (Voćni trg).

QI‑2, Krešimirova 11 (Peristil), tel. (+385-21) 58 25 28, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. A

Photo by Rhys Rainbow McCormack

Arterija Style, appeal, and much to reveal! Arterija is a fashion design store that has become one of the cult-like boutiques when it comes to clothing, jewellery and accessories in Split. Owner Gorana Gulišija updates her collection regularly and she also promotes the works of some of Croatia’s best designers. Modern yet avant-garde, pop in for a visit as you just might find a surprise or two. Fashion with passion!QJ‑2, Majstora Jurija 17, tel. (+385-) 091 547 71 41. Open 10:00-21:00.

Atelier Perajica This fantastic little atelier is a wonderful place to get lost in your thoughts or to pick up something unique as a gift.

Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here, amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split nostalgic and modern. The current owner Ana has some unusual creations including photos printed on canvas and fringed with handmade lace: voilà! Drinks mats! A functional keepsake that’s cool. There’s also a wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace, including the UNESCO-listed agave lace made by nuns on Hvar island, and another featuring treasures from the deep such as sponges, seahorses and coral.QJ‑2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, www.atelierperajica.com. Open Sat 09:00-12:00; closed Sun. 09:00 - 15:00 and 17:00 20:00. A 42 Summer 2021

Enoteka Terra A little piece of the Mediterranean with quality international and Croatian wines such as Pošip or Plavac mali, champagnes, rakija (grappa) and other Dalmatian gastronomic delicacies.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 48 00, www.vinoteka.hr. Open 08:0020:00; Sat 09:00-13:30; closed Sun. A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QD‑3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+38521) 27 42 59, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00-20:00; Sun 08:00-13:00. A Jakšić Gallery The gallery is run by the Jakšić family, from Donji Humac, a village located on the island of Brač. The owner and father, Dražen, is a known stonemasonry, the mother Ida Stipčić Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son Lovre, an academic sculptor and their daughter Dina has a doctoral degree in arts. Their ancestors created the first stonemasonry workshop in 1903. The family trade was passed on from generation to generation and in 2008, this extraordinary family turned the ancient workshop into an art gallery, which includes both workshops and studios. Six years later they opened up a gallery in the center of Split. Their gallery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculptures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by Dina.

QD‑2, Bribirska 10, tel. (+385-) 098 70 19 03, www. galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00-13:30, 16:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:30; closed Sun. A

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Shopping

Jaman Art Centar Danijel Jaman is an academic painter from Split. His works can be seen in his gallery in Šubićeva 3 and the JAMAN art center at Dobrić 14. The design of the gallery brings in lots of natural light which aids in intensifying displayed images. The approach here is based on current trends in ‘New Pop-Art’ which focuses on using heightened colours when portraying subjects on pictures such as phones, NY registration plates, vinyl panels, chains…

QI‑2, Dobrić 14, tel. (+385-21) 28 01 28/(+385-) 098 32 27 19, www.jaman-art.com. Open 10:00-23:00. A Joker Centre Joker Centre offers numerous stores and entertainment at your fingertips, including clothing, footwear, accessories & jewelry etc. There are also cafes and restaurants for when you need to take a break from shopping, health and beauty services as well as a Cinestar Joker cinema, and a playroom for kids.QD‑1/2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09/(+385-21) 39 69 10, www.joker.hr.

Open 09:00-21:00.

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Namfleg Watches & Jewelry Specialising in the cloisonné technique, this boutique has a workshop and furnace allowing you to see how the jewellery is worked into delicate metal compartments which are filled with vividly-coloured enamel powder and fired and polished to a glassy lustre. Split’s boutique has a special collection featuring motifs inspired by the city.QI‑2, Ulica Marka Marulića 3, Split, tel. (+385 - ) 91 150 80 18, www.namfleg.com/pages/split. Open 10:00-22:00.

A­J Oleoteka Uje Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’. Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 08:00 - 21:00.QJ‑2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, www.uje.hr. Open 08:00-21:00. A­J Paparella Gallery Yet another charming art gallery where all art lovers can find something to catch the eye, from paintings to lamps to small boat models…all decorated and created with a lot of love and taste.QJ‑2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21) 78 54 21.

Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. Ivan Listeš , Vau, vau, vau, vau, vau

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Arrival & Getting Around BY boat Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you’ll reach the old town in about five minutes.

Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 45 - 60kn per person and 180 - 590 kn for cars.

Motorcycles will cost you 112 - 147 kn and bicycles 45 62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest.

The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about two and a half hours. On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online.

For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 05:30-00:00. From July Open 00:00 - 24:00.

directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station.

Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sicknessinducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Doma‑ goja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 99, www.ak-split.hr.

By plane Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Pleso prijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip. (00385 (0)21 89 52 37). Public bus No 37 or 38 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 25 kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Pleso prijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old town for 35kn.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Check sailing schedule here.

QGat Sv Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76, www.krilo.hr.

Open 06:00-21:00. J

Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 20 35 07/(+385-21) 20 35 08, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, www.split-airport.hr.

By bus

By train

Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 - 24:00) 4kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00. The international ticket office operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the

The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.

facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Main train stationQJ‑3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www. hzpp.hr. Open 06:10-21:40.

Summer 2021

45

Arrival & Getting Around card (Mastercard, VISA, Diners, American Express). Pay as you go, 5.00 kn / 30 min for classic bicycles and 10.00 kn / 30 min for electric bicycles Weekly subscription 100.00 kn / 7 days with an unlimited number of free rides up to 30 minutes for 1 bike. Annual subscription 200.00 kn / 365 days with an unlimited number of free rides up to 30 minutes for 1 bike.Take advantage of an annual subscription, with benefits across 30 towns and cities in Croatia and 250 worldwide.

Customer support you can get on +385 (1) 777 65 34.

Public transport

Photo by Colton Jones/Unsplash

Parking There are four parking zones and prices range from 4 – 6kn/ hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 – 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00 and in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 – 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price. However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have one you might catch a fine of 90kn (Zone 1), 60kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn (Zone 4).

Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a maximum 25kn charge for the first hour and 20 kn per hour there after. Most of the lots operate around the clock.

Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses. There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11 - 21kn (depends on the zone you are buying for) or from Promet Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9kn - 21kn. If you’re trying to beat the system and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn.

Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:30 to 20:00, on weekdays 06:30 12:30 on Sat and is cls to Sun. To contact the Sukoišanska station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 01.

Promet Split QE‑1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, www. promet-split.hr.

SMS Parking

Promet Split QD‑2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, www. promet-split.hr.

There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 70 8211), zone 2 (blue - 70 8212), zone 3 (green - 70 8213) and zone 4 (yellow - 70 8214). You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember to include the international dialing code if you’re using a foreign mobile).

A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, you’ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of the space or move your car.

Public bikes

Taxi

bikes During the hot summer days, the best way to zip through city traffic is on two wheels. The system of public city bicycles is present in the city of Split, and the public bicycle rental service is available to registered users all day, every day. Download the Nextbike app via your mobile phone and register.Fees are charged from a valid credit or debit

The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial +385 (0) 21 47 37 37. The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 3kn added per each piece of luggage and 100kn per hour for waiting. There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.

46 Summer 2021

split.inyourpocket.com

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Split Map Legend Info Centre

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Official Building

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Museum

Ferry Line

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Post Office

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Split

TOP NATURAL SIGHTS of Southern Croatia

1

2

3 5 9 6

21 1

8

12 15

Lunj Olive Grove, Island of Pag

11

20

(olives more than a thousand years old) 2

16

10 13

Telaščica Nature Park - Salt lake Mir

3

17 19 18

(A lake that is saltier than sea water)

Vrana Lake Nature Park (And one of the peculiarities of the lake is the autochthonous eel species, which spawns only once in its life and then dies.)

4

Kornati National Park (A stone labyrinth of eighty-nine islands, islets and cliffs in the sea these are the Kornati)

5

Krka National Park (Krčići, Topoljski buk, Manojlovac, Roški Slap) The main attractions of Krka include waterfalls, the river canyon, lakes, bathing places, boat tours and unique flora and fauna

6

7

8

10

Biokovo Nature Park

16

(a mountain with roots in the sea, and Sveti Jure is, with a height of 1762 metres, the highest peak of Biokovo and the third highest mountain peak in Croatia)

17

18

Vranjača Cave

Elafiti Islands (The Elafiti are a group of islands located west of Dubrovnik.

Although they are no longer inhabited by deer, the archipelago owes its name to them)

Đurovića Cave (Đurovića cave spreads over 9000 square metres, and is located below the runway of Dubrovnik Airport)

19

The mouth of the Neretva 20

Baćina lakes

(The Pakleni islands are between Split and the island of Vis, and its 21 nautically attractive islets and cliffs that seem to be connected to the town of Hvar by a ribbon)

Nakovana Cave (cave and archaeological site of the Illyrian sanctuary on the Pelješac peninsula)

Blue and Red Lake

Paklinski islands near Hvar

Vela Cave (a fascinating cave above Vela Luka on the island of Korčula)

Arboretum Trsteno (The oldest arboretum in the world was built around the Gučetić-Gozza summer house in 1494.)

Sapluni Bay (Saplun is a beautiful, extremely wooded and shady island Lastovo, and it has what is very rare on remote islands in the open sea sand!)

(You can also get to know the lakes by riding a 15km long cycle path that connects five of the seven Baćina lakes) 12

Mills on the river Ljuta (In the 15th century, the people of Dubrovnik bought Konavle and founded four mills there. By the 19th century, 15 in total had been built, with a large system of stone canals that distribute water. The Republic of Dubrovnik never sold the mills)

15

(The mouth of the Neretva is the best Croatian kiteboarding place, ideal for all levels of kitesurfers) 11

14

(The canyon itself was written about back in 1774, when the work The Road through Dalmatia was published, by the famous Italian biologist and travel writer Alberto Fortis)

(Packed with stalactites and stalagmites, cave pillars and arcades, some halls are bluish and green, and some sparkle sprinkled with crystals)

Mljet National Park - Big and small lake (Veliko and Malo jezero are a natural phenomenon of Mljet National Park and also the most visited place on Mljet)

Cetina river Canyon

(The water level fluctuates considerably during the year, so it is not uncommon for it to sometimes dry up completely, and the residents of Imotski then traditionally play football at its bottom) 9

13

14

21

Blue Cave (The unreal beauty of the Blue Cave on the island of Biševo) Odysseus' Cave (Mljet is also called the island of Odysseus, because according to legend, it was also visited by the Greek hero Odysseus)