COVER
In April 2022, six Palais des Thés employees travelled around Nepal and visited its lush tea plantations.
OPPOSITE
Tea researchers
François-Xavier
Palais des Thés has always sourced its teas directly from the growing regions. Our researchers travel the world all year round in search of the rarest, most exquisite teas and to discover new gardens. By visiting tea-producing countries, we are helping to establish a virtuous circle. Going to meet producers on their farms encourages them to make quality teas, which we buy at a fair price, providing them with a good source of income. The better the quality, the more incentive they have to pay their employees decent wages and invest in more planet-friendly farming methods. This approach helps to improve the standard of living in these regions, something we see for ourselves when we visit the plantations.
We meet some really interesting characters as we travel along the tea routes and around the estates. We get to know the people who make their living from tea and discover the rich cultural heritage of these regions and populations, while building lasting relations with producers based on trust and friendship. All this contributes to the pleasure we derive from our work and makes us want to share our journeys and experiences with you.
This is our mission, and we will continue to fulfil it. We believe that an exceptional tea is one that is born in fertile soil, nurtured by a passionate producer, brought to the world by an ethical company, and enjoyed by enthusiasts who understand the value of good things.
Bergamot is a citrus fruit used to flavour Earl Grey. The most sought-after crops grow in Reggio Calabria in southern Italy.
Laetitia Portois
By Mathias Minet
Mathias Minet
Since joining Palais des Thés in 1990, Mathias has been creating flavoured teas and infusions that have met with unqualified success.
Oxana Genel
Oxana grew up in Russia and has always drunk tea. As a master tea sommelier, she strives to make each tasting unique and memorable.
Laetitia Portois
Laetitia is especially fond of Japanese green teas. She enjoys telling stories and is passionate about sharing her vocation with others.
For more than 30 years, François-Xavier Delmas, founder of Palais des Thés, has dedicated himself to passing on his knowledge of tea and his love of this exquisite beverage. But there is another mission close to his heart: to share his explorations with his colleagues who, at Palais des Thés’ headquarters and in its stores, spread this passion among our customers. This is how Anna, Cassandra, Svetlana, Clément, Pierre and Thomas travelled to meet farmers in Ilam Valley as Nepal entered the year 2079. The six of them tell their story.
In conversation with Bénédicte Bortoli
Between spring 2020 and autumn 2021, the world ground to a halt due to the pandemic. All travel stopped and our trips were cancelled. So we were surprised and overjoyed when, a few days before Christmas, François-Xavier invited us to join him in Nepal, along with Léo, who helps him track down the finest teas. As we rejoiced at being the lucky ones to be chosen that year, many questions surfaced, but above all we felt a deep desire to discover new places and meet new people. We would open up our hearts and our eyes.
This would be our first time visiting a tea-producing country, our first time in Nepal, and our first trip with colleagues. It was unknown territory for us all! At last, on 12 April 2022, we boarded the flight to Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, feeling excited and nervous. For tea-lovers, Nepal is the ultimate destination. It is a country shrouded in mystery and spirituality with a unique culture. We had already tasted a few of its treasures chosen by François-Xavier in our stores and at the office. But our first experience of Nepal itself was the sweltering heat of Kathmandu, and our first momos, the popular Tibetan dumplings. Dazed by the traffic and horns, we escaped the bustle of the city to wander the narrow streets of Bhaktapur’s old town. Then, as the night and the rain began to fall, we headed to the stupa of Boudhanath, one of the main Buddhist shrines in the region. Still feeling somewhat overwhelmed, we spent our first evening together on a rooftop overlooking the city.
The next morning, we flew to Bhadrapur and enjoyed a view of Mount Everest from the plane. On arrival we met our drivers, Bouddha and Dipech, who accompanied us throughout our journey. Once on the road, we were impressed to see the efforts people made to decorate their homes, whether they were modest or more fancy. Some of the houses seemed rather ornate to us in such a rural setting. We looked out for the lowland tea bushes and speculated about the purpose of the approaching festivities, which we could see were in preparation. We scrutinised every detail of these unfamiliar landscapes. And then came the clouds.
Nepal started producing tea relatively recently, landlocked between India and China, two giants with a long tea tradition. There are three tea-producing regions in Nepal: Terai, Dhankuta and Ilam, which we planned to cross and where there are no large plantations in the British tradition. At more than 1,600 metres above sea level, where the sweet scents of flowers linger in the humid air, we visited our first plantations, Norling and La Mandala. There, we met Sonam Paljor Lama, a well-known figure in the region who has travelled as far as Georgia to impart his tea-growing expertise. We drank in the wise words of this inspiring man of the soil. In a new building that looked out across the tea fields, we silently tasted a dozen teas harvested in spring and last autumn. We also ate the first of many servings of dal bhat (a combination of rice and lentils that comes in endless spicy versions), which tested our Western stomachs. That day, we learnt that the villagers were preparing to celebrate the new year, 2079, in the evening, and had invited us to join them! We enjoyed the music, dancing and tongba, a traditional alcoholic drink made from fermented millet. Then at 8.30pm the party was over. It was curfew time, and everyone went home.
Day 3. A seemingly endless rock-strewn earth track eventually led us to the small artisanal plantation of Mai Pokhari, managed with the greatest attention to detail by two brothers and their wives. We were surprised to find them producing Oolongs with honeyed, floral notes. They told us they learnt how to make these semi-oxidised teas from an online tutorial! Out in the misty fields, we watched the pickers at work and clumsily tried to mimic their precise movements. Then, in Jasbire, we tasted a wide selection of high-quality teas. After an obligatory stop at Ilam, we continued on to Shangri-La, where we found a more industrial version of Nepalese tea production, complete with white coats and hairnets.
The following day we journeyed to Pathivara along bumpy tracks lined with rhododendrons, the national flower. During our well-earned stops we picked a few petals and chewed on them. We had reached an altitude of 2,500 metres. The air was thinner and there were fewer dwellings. We were met by Uday, his wife Surya and their son who welcomed us into their home like old friends and treated us to a memorable visit infused with their generous hospitality. The Uday family are strongly committed to supporting the education and health of the village and invite the most deprived children to join them at meal times. All the tea leaves they produce – a small amount, around 8 tonnes – come from their own gardens, which provide a living for the whole community. For us, as a company that contributes to the tea economy, it was also an opportunity to see for ourselves the ways in which we can support people. Here, we met up with our tea researcher Léo who, over his many visits, has forged such strong ties with these wonderful people that it felt like he was the big brother of the family. Carrying
For tea-lovers, Nepal is the ultimate destination.
a
30
An opportunity for Pierre to taste the newly produced first-flush
which are wonderfully fresh.
baskets, we tried our hands at harvesting the tea and identifying the plant varieties. Then we took off our shoes and sat on the ground to learn how to roll the leaves by hand. We were proud to have made our first tea, feel it in our hands, and enjoy it the next morning at breakfast! We also met Lapam, the farm’s “tea maker”. Uday told us that Lapam is responsible for creating the tea we sell thanks to his expertise and skills.
We descended from the heights of Pathivara for a few hours to explore some small plots of land strewn with tea bushes, flowers and beehives, maintained by – we were told – the only Christian in the valley. It was an idyllic interlude before we met up with Uday again for a spontaneous and lively gathering at his house. We danced to Nepalese and Western music, captivated by the delights of Pathivara. Was it the snowy peaks, the breathtaking landscapes, François-Xavier’s joy at seeing us touched by the charm of these places that had moved him decades earlier, or a giddiness brought on by the altitude? We were overcome with shared emotions. We were literally filled with awe.
Sitting precariously in the back of a pick-up truck, then stumbling along on foot, asking directions from the few people we met on the way, we headed up to Kalapani (“black water”), where we were introduced to the local mayor and to Apsara, the only female tea maker we came across throughout our trip. She sets a professional example, and no doubt a social one, for girls of future generations. In this sea of green vegetation framed by mountains, we were charmed by the tea pickers in their beautiful and colourful traditional costumes and felt compelled to take photos. This was followed by the customary tasting session, held under a gazebo by the lake.
Tea plantation in Nepal. Tea bushes are often planted on mountainsides to allow the rainwater to drain away naturally.
Sonam Paljor Lama, a leading local figure in the tea world, gives valuable advice about tea farming to employees on his plantations.
To learn more about the little-known teas of Nepal, join François-Xavier for an audio journey.
(In French.)
The last plantations in Arya Tara
Arya Tara, our final destination, gave us an opportunity to spend time in a factory and compare everything we’d imagined about this work with reality. We arrived with our own preconceived idea of time-keeping and our rational vision of tea production. We quickly realised how all this was mere theory when compared to the hands-on experience and the truly artisanal, sensory-led approach we saw in action. In the withering room, we were amazed by the vegetal notes given off by the leaves. During the tasting, consisting of just three teas, we looked at François-Xavier and Léo and realised they had found what they were looking for in an AV2 with almond notes. After a last dal bhat and a farewell song for our drivers, we took off for Kathmandu. On the journey out we had flown with Buddha Air, and the return flight was with Yeti Air – a holistic representation of Nepal! We spent the hours before our departure with a representative from Karuna-Shechen, the charitable organisation founded by Matthieu Ricard that Palais des Thés has been supporting for two years. It was a fascinating conversation that reminded us of how tea farming can benefit communities. We had been moved to witness the emergence of fragile but enterprising new companies, some of which had started up less than six months earlier. We had visited plantations, picked our first tea leaves, sipped extraordinary teas, and most importantly, met wonderful people. The six of us had also got to know each other. •
Thanks to its ability to retain scents, tea is an exceptional vehicle for aromas. Apart from picking the leaves and controlling the oxidation, the process of creating flavoured teas and infusions can be likened to the art of the perfumer. New regulations are leading organic tea producers to explore new blends, which is always a good thing!
By Mathias MinetIn the world of gastronomy, tea has always been special for the longstanding practice of scenting its leaves with freshly picked petals, natural essences, fruit peel and spices. Whether green, black or semi-oxidised, tea can be flavoured with different ingredients and has a tremendous ability to absorb scents. In China, the most popular flavoured tea is jasmine. It has been produced for centuries using a lengthy and meticulous method and has travelled across the continents (see Bruits de Palais 82, p. 32 ff.). Indian chai, a blend of tea and spices, is one of the best-known flavoured teas. And in around 1830, the British gave us the now internationally popular Earl Grey tea thanks to the fortuitous addition of a few drops of essential oil of bergamot to a cup of tea. From the 1950s, the wider range of flavourings available meant that tea merchants could offer endless and creative variations. The history of tea is therefore closely linked to these aromatic blends. The addition of flavours to tea should always enhance the tasting experience rather than be a substitute for the qualities of the tea itself.
It is this special quality that led creators of flavoured teas and infusions to review their practices and inspiration when applying the new European directives for the transition to organic food products. Organic standards are the most demanding in the food industry, and apply to tea (see Bruits de Palais 83, p. 14 ff.). According to the new regulation, which came into force in Europe on 1 January 2022, certified “organic” tea can only contain flavourings made from at least 95% of the fruit or flower after which they are named (for the different flavouring categories, see pp. 18-19). If other aromatic compounds are added to the
flavouring – even if they are derived solely from organic ingredients – the tea cannot be labelled “organic”. To overcome this technical and creative challenge, the tea industry has invested and adapted so that it can continue to offer flavoured blends. A comprehensive review of recipes was accompanied by a reassessment of creative and production methods.
Flavoured tea blends – not including traditional teas with flowers, spices, etc. – are unique in the food industry. For example, a yoghurt manufacturer can replace a strawberry flavouring with real strawberry (it will probably cost more but will generally improve the product in terms of taste and perhaps even health). However, the maker of a strawberry-flavoured tea cannot add the fruit to the tea in its natural form. This is because at present it is extremely difficult technically and disappointing from a taste perspective to extract flavours from fresh fruits, especially those with a high water content. The tea would be less flavourful and would also lose the lighter, fresh notes that make it so special. And when dried, a fruit like the strawberry turns sticky and would clump together with the tea leaves. So in order to offer organic flavoured blends, we had to completely revise the choice of ingredients and eliminate many. After research and tests in collaboration with flavour specialists, we have found new options. It has been a long process, which began two years ago at Palais des Thés, but thankfully, working with tea has taught us the art of patience! There have been some setbacks along the way, but above all it has been fascinating.
To make the transition to organic with our existing flavoured blends, we essentially need to reproduce the same flavour characteristics using different ingredients, to avoid disappointing our tea enthusiasts. The tea creator must therefore rely on both science and technological innovations (in particular developments in terms of extraction, drying, smoking, and so on) and on sensory explorations. For example, to bring a slightly sweet vanilla note to a flavoured blend, in addition to using vanilla pods, a natural ingredient such as carob has turned out to be an ideal partner, while cocoa nibs offer delicious sweet, spicy notes. Natural ingredients that were previously little explored by tea blenders are now being used in recipes.
2026
The deadline set by Palais des Thés for all its teas, infusions and flavoured blends to be organic. Healthy teas that respect the planet.
Each tea requires the right combination of notes, which is achieved through the complex art of balancing teas with flavourings. This involves achieving a synergy between the tea leaves, which have their own character, and the flavourings. It demands experience and creativity. Even before a tea is tasted, its bouquet should be appealing. Mathias Minet, who creates our flavoured teas at Palais des Thés, draws inspiration from his imagination, senses and memories to devise each tea. These qualities then resonate with the person who drinks the tea, allowing them to share the same experience.
To date, 24% of Palais des Thés’ flavoured blends meet European legislation for organic products.
Where it previously took three to 12 months to finalise a flavoured tea recipe, today for an organic tea it takes more than a year.
In the space of two years, the palette of flavourings used in Palais des Thés’ organic flavoured blends has greatly expanded. This is good news for both us and for tea-lovers. In fact, our Theophile customers were invited to taste some blends in stores and provide feedback, thereby contributing to the creation of their favourite teas (see also p. 19). This joint venture is all about one thing: taste! •
Tea opens up a world of aromas and flavours that stimulate the imagination and the senses. To access the tastes that draw us to our favourite teas, the blenders must use flavourings in their recipes. What are they and what ingredients are permitted in an organic blend today?
Flavourings are part of the organoleptic experience and contribute to the alchemy that becomes the hallmark of a flavoured tea or infusion. There are different types of flavourings.
Natural flavourings, divided into three categories:
• Essential oils, extracts and concentrates obtained directly by different methods used to extract aromatic substances from flowers, fruit zest, spices and so on. These natural flavourings are often made up of many different molecules, which gives them their richness.
Synthetic flavourings manufactured using chemical – and therefore non-natural – processes, divided into two categories:
• Natural aromas of x (a flower, fruit, spice etc.), which must be made from at least 95% of x. The remaining 5% can be any other ingredient chosen for its flavour contribution or supporting function. For example, 5% peach added to 95% strawberry would bring lovely fruity notes to a strawberry flavour.
• Natural flavourings, which are always made from natural ingredients but can be exempt from the 95% rule or be made up of a mixture of several natural flavourings.
• Nature-identical flavourings which are artificial reproductions of natural flavours. From a molecular perspective, these flavours are exactly the same as their natural counterparts, but generally only contain the dominant flavour substance of the natural version. For example, vanillin can be obtained from beet pulp by fermentation.
• Artificial flavourings which, contrary to popular belief and fears, are rare. They are artificially produced and do not exist in nature. They tend to be similar to a natural molecule but are altered to bring out the flavour. Ethylvanillin, one of the best known of these, is a molecular version of vanillin that is three times more powerful. It is not found in nature and is therefore defined as artificial. Palais des Thés has never used this type of flavouring.
The new regulation has been an opportunity for Palais des Thés to combine organic transition with the development of new recipes while focusing on transparency around ingredients and, of course, flavour. This work has involved a great deal of experimentation, research and tastings! Several scenarios have arisen.
In this case, the organic flavoured blend must be altered and a whole new blend created that is more or less removed from the previous version, in order to achieve a taste experience that lives up to expectations. This was the case with Fleur de Geisha, for which it was impossible to reproduce the unique, slightly whimsical notes of cherry blossom. In the end we came up with two very different creations: one centred more on kirsch and almond, another that highlights the fruit flesh. The Palais des Thés team loved each one, and so decided to offer them both. This summer, in some stores, tea-lovers were able to smell and taste these two blends and share their impressions with our tea sommeliers.
In this scenario, the aroma and flavour impressions are exactly the same after switching to organic as before, but the recipe is different in order to meet the new specifications. This is the case with the organic Thé des Moines, which is faithful to the original version, as its unique floral-zesty-vanilla accord could be recreated using organic ingredients.
On lowland plantations, it is essential to dig ditches to prevent water from stagnating around the tea bushes.
Water plays an essential role in the cultivation, production and drinking of tea. From land to cup, the history of tea leaves is closely linked to this natural resource.
By Laetitia Portois
Anatural element that must be managed during the growth of the tea bush, then during production to determine the tea type/colour, and finally for brewing in the cup or pot, “water is the mother of tea”.�
The link between water and the tea bush is established from the first moments of the plant’s life. The tea bush can cope with a variety of climatic conditions but requires abundant rainfall, at least 1,500 mm of water spread throughout the year. High rainfall results in greater yields and larger leaves. However, these are less concentrated in essential oils. A smaller leaf, which takes its time and grows slowly, is more aromatic. This is why leaves harvested during the monsoon period are somewhat less complex in flavour. The ideal climate for the tea plant to reach its full potential is found in high-altitude regions near the equator with alternating rainy and dry seasons. This is because the leaves need light and sun to develop their aromas and give the tea its richness and subtlety. Darjeeling is the perfect place for growing tea. The humidity levels are constant. The plantations are hidden in the clouds, forming enigmatic mountain landscapes. The mist helps the bushes to grow by creating humidity levels of between 70% and 90%. Tea is best grown on sloping ground, because unlike rice, for example, Camellia sinensis cannot tolerate water sitting around its roots. The slope allows the soil to drain naturally. On lowland plantations, growers dig irrigation ditches to avoid flooding. Then the water becomes an ally and can be manipulated almost like a tool to create different colours of tea.
Tea leaves are made up of 70% or even 80% water. Once picked, they must be dehydrated to allow them to be handled without tearing. Next, the withering stage removes 50% to 60% of the moisture from the leaves. The harvested leaves are spread out in a thin, even layer on racks in a well-ventilated room. By the end of this stage, the leaves have become more supple and pliable, and can be rolled as required. Then comes the oxidation. Unlike withering, which is intended to dry the leaves, oxidation involves maintaining the moisture level to facilitate oxidation. The leaves are spread out on tables in a room with 95% humidity. Once the desired degree of oxidation has been achieved, the leaves must be exposed to very high temperatures in order to stop the oxidation process and significantly reduce the moisture in the leaves. This is the drying stage. It requires a great deal of expertise, because if the final moisture content is too high, the leaves can turn mouldy, whereas if the leaves are too dry, they will lose their flavours and aromas. A completely dehydrated tea cannot be brewed, because the substances in the leaves will be insoluble. At the end of these steps, the leaves must contain less than 5% water. So tea production involves a constant balancing act between heat and humidity. It is essential to control the water content of the leaves in order to make a quality tea.
A cup of tea is made up of 99% water. The water must bring out all the tea’s flavours, aromas and complexity without distorting its taste. The choice
During the monsoon, tea bushes grow at a dizzying rate and can be harvested every four to five days.
In the Himalayan regions, the weather changes very quickly.
Tea pickers can be shrouded in wet mist in the space of a few minutes.
of water is crucial and is a subject that has been debated for several centuries. In around the year 780, in his Classic of Tea, Lu Yu, the greatest tea master of the Tang Dynasty, suggested preparing tea with the same water that was used to irrigate the tea bush throughout its life. After Lu Yu, water sources were ranked by excellence as follows: water from a mountain spring that emerges onto stones or rocks free from all vegetation, water from mountain springs in general, lowlands water free from contamination, etc. According to John Blofeld,2 a leading sinologist in his day, dew that had gathered in lotus leaves, collected at dawn, also enjoyed an excellent reputation, but was rarely used. Today, tea enthusiasts have easy access to quality water. Nevertheless, whether it comes from the tap or a natural spring, water contains minerals that can have a major impact on tea. Some water has a pronounced flavour (salty, for example, if there is sodium chloride present). Others have a particular smell (chlorine residues, common in treated waters, can give off a smell of bleach).
There are many legends surrounding the close relationship between water and tea. One recounts that Long Jing is never better than when brewed in the clear water of the Spring of the Leaping Tigers.
Our researchers always taste tea in situ and on return to France before buying, because the water used to brew it has an impact on the tea’s notes.
When François-Xavier and Léo set off in search of exceptional teas, they taste the teas in the presence of the producers in the countries of origin, and again once they return to France, before they buy a batch. This is because the differences in water from one country to another can have a considerable impact on the taste of tea. A tea that might have seemed exceptional on the plantation can be disappointing once brewed with city water.
To choose the best brewing water, there are various factors to consider. pH: this determines the acidic or alkaline character of a solution. pH is neutral at a value of 7. It is best to brew tea with a neutral or very slightly acidic pH. This brings out particular notes in certain teas (floral aromas in a first-flush Darjeeling, for example).
— Minerals: these elements can react with compounds in teas, especially tannins, and spoil them.
— Water temperature : the temperature to which water is heated is also important. Brewing at the ideal temperature for the type of tea allows you to control the balance between tannins, amino acids and aromatic compounds. The water must never boil: this removes all the oxygen from it. Oxygen helps aromatic compounds to become gaseous, which makes the aromas more perceptible. Water that is too hot also destroys the most volatile amino acids and compounds. •
At Palais des Thés, we think that a good tea deserves good water. In some regions, tap water may be suitable, but it is important to check that it is not too hard or too chlorinated. You can use water from a filter jug or that has been treated with activated carbon to remove elements that might affect the taste of tea. You can also use spring water that is low in minerals.
Dong Fang Mei Ren, its Mandarin Chinese name, is often referred to as “Oriental Beauty”. It is one of the few Taiwanese Oolongs to undergo significant oxidation: around 70%. This iconic tea has wonderful complex aromas and evokes the green plantations of Hsinchu County.
By Oxana GenelEvery tasting, each encounter with a tea, starts a conversation. Every tea has stories to tell.
Today, I’m looking forward to meeting an old friend. This extraordinary tea comes from far away and has an extraordinary identity. I can’t wait to rediscover it. To begin with, I admire its beautiful dry leaves studded with white buds and its many brown glints, [1] which give it the name “Oolong of many colours”.
After a quick rinse, the first brew is short. [2] The tea is still shy. It reveals just a few delicate floral, fruity notes, but is already promising. It is both smooth and slightly sweet. It transports me to the beautiful hilly landscapes of its native region, near Beipu and Emei in Hsinchu County in the north-west of Taiwan. The leaves are harvested in the middle of summer when they are mature, with plenty of tannins, and have well-developed buds. The second infusion, only slightly longer, reveals more body, more presence in the mouth and a slight tang. The floral note is more assured:
geranium, a beautiful and very fragrant flower, appears, accompanied by a hint of vanilla.
The tea continues to tell me its story. At the end of the 19th century, a farmer in Beipu stood by helplessly as small green insects attacked his tea plants. He didn’t lose hope and, despite his neighbours’ mockery, decided to go ahead and harvest the damaged leaves and produce the tea. The result was remarkable and attracted the attention of a tea merchant who bought the entire batch.
For the third infusion, I let the tea brew longer. I want to encourage it to reveal its
full character. I am not disappointed. The geranium note blossoms, enriched with hints of rose, accompanied by honeyed, slightly woody notes with spicy nuances, leaning towards nutmeg. The texture becomes smoother with powdery touches, [3] giving the tea a wonderful finish in the mouth. The tea reaches a beautiful balance between flavours, fragrances and texture. But where does this explosion of aromas come from? Has the tea not yet revealed all of its past?
As I sip, I recall the rest of the story. To defend themselves from insects (Jacobiasca formosana, or more commonly, paoli), the
tea bushes developed specific organic compounds, terpenes, which have notes of spices, flowers and ripe grapes. In addition, the insects’ bites trigger the oxidation of the leaves long before the harvest.
So what should have caused the loss of this tea made it unique in the world and, I think, all the more precious.
I continue the conversation with my Oolong over further
infusions, some shorter to highlight a particular note, some longer to bring out the texture. To enjoy wonderful encounters with teas, you can’t hurry them. You need to take time to listen to tea and to yourself. As Thich Nhat Hanh, a Vietnamese Buddhist monk, said: “When I drink tea, it’s just me and the tea. Drink your tea slowly, with reverence, without rushing towards the future.” •
CULTIVAR Qing Xin Da Pan
ORIgIn Hsinchu (Taiwan)
HARVESTED 15 April 2021
PREPARATION
→ With the GonG Fu Cha method (teapot or gaiwan)
FOOD PAIRIng
A Saint-Nectaire cheese
→ Ref. 2786 – € 48 per 100g
This simple dish, popular in Japan, highlights the vegetal, subtle iodine taste of Sencha Ariake.
Serves 4
200g short-grain rice
12g Sencha Ariake
60ml filtered water
Seasonal vegetables
Nori (dried seaweed)
Sesame seeds
Salt, pepper
1. Place the rice in a large bowl and cover with water. Stir it by hand, then drain. This helps to rinse away some of the rice starch.
2. Repeat the operation several times until the water is clear, then drain and set aside for 30 minutes.
3. Cook the rice.
4. Arrange the rice on four deep plates.
5. Add the cooked and/or raw vegetables of your choice, strips of nori and sesame seeds. Season to taste.
6. Steep the Sencha Ariake for 2 minutes in the filtered water at 75°C.
7. Pour the tea over the rice.
8. Serve immediately, accompanied by a cup of Sencha Ariake.
You can garnish the rice with diced grilled fish or fish roe and umeboshi (salted Japanese plums) and complement the flavours with tsukemono pickles together with horseradish or wasabi.
Ochazuke (from ocha, “tea” and zuke, “soaking”) means “cleaning your bowl”. It is the traditional way to finish a meal in Japan, by pouring tea over your remaining rice.
The year 2022 marks the 150th anniversary of the birth of Marcel Proust and the centenary of his death, so it is an ideal time to celebrate the work of the author of the novel À la Recherche du Temps perdu (Remembrance of things past). In tribute to the writer, Palais des Thés has created a new blend, Le Temps Retrouvé, a light tea with delicate roasted flavours that is ideal for the afternoon.
We considered a number of questions as we were creating this new tea, such as, what did Marcel Proust drink? Which tea would best accompany a madeleine?
These reflections inspired us to create a blend of Chinese black tea and Japanese roasted green tea. The combination of flavours takes us back in time through history, both Proust’s
and ours, made up of our own memories.
Afternoon tea became popular in Britain during the 19th century. The Duchess of Bedford, Queen Victoria’s Lady of the Bedchamber, asked to be served tea and a light meal between lunch and dinner to satisfy her appetite during the afternoon. The food was chosen to complement the tea, both visually and in terms of taste. The Duchess invited companions to join her for conversation around the table as they sipped and ate. Within a few decades, afternoon tea had become a popular ritual. Today, in France and elsewhere, we like to invite friends or simply take a break for ourselves to enjoy tea in the afternoon.
Proust’s Le Temps Retrouvé (Time Regained ) reflects this tradition. In the book, tea provides a break, a journey, a gustatory pleasure, and a doorway to the edifice of memory.
Moreover, the trigger in the famous “madeleine” passage is tea: it is when taking a sip, mixed with a piece of cake, that
Proust is immediately transported into his past. “No sooner had the warm liquid mixed with the crumbs touched my palate than a shudder ran through me and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary thing that was happening to me. An exquisite pleasure had invaded my senses, something isolated, detached, with no suggestion of its origin.”1
Palais des Thés’ new tea, Le Temps Retrouvé, is a tribute to this taste of memory. A subtle blend of low-caffeine teas from China and Japan, it gives off simple, sweet and enveloping impressions. The honeyed and floral notes, robed in a sweet veil, are a comforting source of fulfilment. This is an ideal blend to serve with a light bite to take you through late afternoon. And of course it goes perfectly with a delicious madeleine, a pairing
that allows you to experience the famous literary moment to the full…
The pleasure of food plays a central role in Proust’s novel. In fact Proust described himself as a gourmand rather than a gourmet as he was an insatiable eater. We might call him a “gourmand of memory”: he probes and questions the taste
of his memory, as with the madeleine, a personal taste that awakens a form of involuntary recollection. Tasting our tea, Le Temps Retrouvé, is a way to reconnect with the lost taste of childhood through its honeyed scents. The tea goes beautifully with a moreish madeleine. This “little scallop-shell of pastry, so richly sensual under its severe, devout folds,”2 comes from Commercy in the Lorraine region of France. It is a mixture of flour, eggs, sugar and butter, usually flavoured with lemon. The story goes that it is named after a certain Madeleine who gave pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela a sponge cake moulded in a scallop shell, the emblem of the pilgrimage. It is a sweet morsel to enjoy in the late afternoon, accompanied by memories and a delicious cup of tea. •
1. Du côté de chez Swann, (Swann’s Way), Marcel Proust.
2. Ibid
This exceptional tea owes its name to its striking appearance: its fine needle-shaped buds are covered in a delicate white down with silver glints. It is highly regarded in the world of tea for its subtle and natural taste and makes an excellent choice to appreciate the quintessence of white tea.
Many legends surround Yin Zhen (literally “silver needles”). For example, it was said that it could only be harvested by the light of the full moon, in the middle of the night. One thing is true, however: during the Ming dynasty, producers set aside a portion of their harvest for the Emperor, paying tribute with their best tea. For centuries, “tribute tea” was associated with prestige because it was only intended for the highest dignitaries of the Empire.
Silver Needles as we taste them today are from a more recent era. This tea was born in China at the end of the 18th century in the city of Fuding, on the slopes of Mount Taimu, when farmers tried making tea using only the buds of Camellia sinensis . After producing teas that relied on complex production techniques (such as Oolongs and black teas), they went back to basics with a pure tea in its simplest form, offering the pleasure of the taste of the freshly picked leaf in the cup.
A century later, a particularly large variety of tea bush with downy buds that was perfectly suited to the production of this tea was discovered in the same location. It was named Da Bai (or “Great White”) and is still used today.
Producing Yin Zhen requires exceptional expertise. The tea undergoes minimal handling after picking. The only tools needed to make it are nature, the climate and know-how. It therefore requires absolute mastery from the planter. Harvesting takes place in the spring, when the buds are about to open. The harvest is called “imperial” because only the bud is harvested, and requires great dexterity and care. The buds are then left to wither in the sun for more than 48 hours, spread over bamboo racks in the open air. The producer must be able to anticipate the climatic conditions to take advantage of dry weather and reduce the moisture content of the buds. The
latter are then dried before being packaged.
White tea, especially Silver Needles, is very popular in China for its thirst-quenching properties. It is consumed in summer by the lake in Hangzhou, a beautiful city in southern China. The weather is hot, you let the tea brew for a long time, you find yourself forgetting about it as you get lost in the meanderings of a fascinating conversation. Then you enjoy the silence as you taste this wonderfully complex tea. Its delicate fragrances give you the impression that you are drinking in nature itself.
Floral notes create a subtle bouquet on the palate, followed by fruity and vegetal aromas, like a light breeze that refreshes without overwhelming. You infuse the tea again and again, savouring this exceptional tea almost indefinitely.
Yin Zhen is particularly well suited to brewing in a porcelain gaiwan. Porcelain keeps the flavours fresh while allowing the water to be in direct contact with the downy buds. As they mingle with the water, the buds reveal their full potential and give the tea a silky texture. This tea is always a topic of conversation! •
To learn more about white tea, take an audio trip around Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia and China by listening to this podcast episode! (In French.)
Silver Needles are easily recognisable as they are only made up of slender downy buds.
Y In ZHEn → Ref. D077AM − € 58 per 100g
At Palais des Thés, we want our employees to see for themselves the plantations and people behind the teas we sell, in the company of our tea researchers.
In May, six Palais des Thés employees were fortunate enough to meet Mrs Ming, whose plantation is in the village of Mae Salong in northern Thailand. Mrs Ming, with whom we have been working for many years, created the famous Milky Oolong. On the plantation, she talked to the team about the challenge she faced when converting the farm to organic.
A few days earlier, on Mrs Nara’s plantation, a two-hour drive from Chiang Mai, the team saw green tea being made before setting out on a hike to see some thousand-year-old wild tea trees. They will never forget their adventures in the mist!
A number of us at Palais des Thés followed our passion for tea and chose a career in the sector. But many of our employees discovered tea when they joined our company. To become a true expert capable of guiding our customers and revealing the secrets of tea, all of our employees undertake training with the Tea School and study for the Tea Sommelier qualification.
We also created the Master Tea Sommelier diploma, which requires a high level of expertise in tea and in the art of advising customers. Our aim is to ensure our customers have access to these tea specialists, so they can be guided through their discovery of tea. To prepare for the exam, participants must dedicate a significant portion of their time throughout the year to the programme.
The most recently qualified master tea sommeliers are looking forward to seeing you in our stores. Don’t hesitate to ask them for advice. And congratulations to all those who received their diploma!
We are delighted to welcome you to our many Palais des Thés stores. Come and see us, and we will guide you through our selection of 250 teas and herbal infusions.
FRANCE
Toulouse-Labège
Centre commercial
Toulouse-Labège
700, La Pyrénéenne
31670 Labègee
→ Opens midOctober
LUXEMBOURG
Bertrange
Centre commercial City Concorde
80, route de Longwy L-8060 Bertrange
Gyokuro Saemidori from Kirishima
→ Ref. 3070A22 – € 48 per 100g
Dharamsala Smoked
→ Ref. 3070A22 – € 18 per 100g
1. Le Thé Merveilleux
→ Ref. DV821Z01 – € 14 for a 100g metal canister
2. Le Thé Merveilleux
→ Ref. D821N01 – € 11.50 for a box of 20 muslin tea bags
3. Louvre collection
→ Ref. DBM17 – € 24.90 per box
4. Glass fairness cup (22 cl)
→ Ref. M188 – € 15
5. Bodhi leaf
→ Ref. W503 – € 6 for 2 leaves
6. Kaolin teapot (1L)
→ Ref. M248 – € 60
7. Le Temps Retrouvé
→ Ref. DV7080Z – € 15.50 for a 90g metal canister
8. Yixing clay teapot (10 cl)
→ Ref. M125 – € 70
9. L’Herboriste − Verbena ORGANIC
→ Ref. 9090 – € 8.50 per 50g
10. Gong Fu Cha utensil set
→ Ref. W918 – € 25
At Palais des Thés, we are committed to helping everyone cultivate their passion for tea. In 2021 we launched the new Theophile programme.
Customers earn “buds” for every euro spent on teas or infusions, and can then enjoy the benefits. Depending on your status, you will receive invitations to member-only events, unlimited free delivery in France, and priority access to news and other goodies. We also want to encourage and support environmentally-friendly habits, so you will earn an extra bud every time you bring your own container into one of our stores to be refilled. A year after launching the scheme, we have given out more than 57,000 buds. With your help, we are reducing our packaging!
On 14 June, to thank our Theophile customers for their loyalty, we invited a hundred of them to an online masterclass celebrating the arrival of the new spring teas.
Paul Roudez, master tea sommelier and trainer at the Tea School, took us on a virtual tour of the tea gardens of Darjeeling in the Himalayas. It was a fascinating journey through the history and geography of this amazing place, which was followed by a guided tasting of two first-flush Darjeelings: Phuguri DJ7 and Rohini EX14 Spring Delight. We finished off with a lively and interesting discussion of the teas. Thank you to everyone who took part! This first online masterclass was a great success and we plan to hold further sessions. We will keep you informed of the next masterclasses hosted by the Tea School.
Bruits de Palais
A publication from Palais des Thés
Contributors to this issue
Sarah Vasseghi (Recipe and new product styling)
Editorial team
Bénédicte Bortoli, Chloé Douzal, Mathias Minet
Art direction and layout
Laurent Pinon and Aurore Jannin at Prototype
Illustrations
Stéphane Humbert-Basset
English translation
Marta Scott
Proofreading
Nicole Foster
Printing
Printed in July 2022 by Prenant (France)
Imaging & retouching services
Key Graphic
Palais des Thés
All translation, adaptation and reproduction rights in any form are reserved for all countries.
Photo credits
Palais des Thés photo library
– François-Xavier Delmas: p. 4, 20-21, 23, 24, 32-33, 39 •
Cassandra Bagneris: cover, p. 2, 12 • Svletana Deribasko: p. 10-11 (1) • Anna Galitzine: p. 10-11 (2, 3, 4, 5) • Thomas Faivre: p. 6 • Clément Régis: p. 13
• Guillaume Czerw: p. 26, 27, 29, 36, 37 • Kenyon Manchego: p. 28, 31, 33 • Sandrina Borrego: p. 34 • Alexandre Denni: p. 35 (diploma)
• City Concorde: p. 35 (store) • Lan Avril: p. 38.
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“It is better to light a candle than curse the darkness.” Laozi
