#2/2021
“We Love Fashion! We Change Fashion!” Daniel Grieder
Life at the Core. What Makes City Centres Viable. The Magic of the Human Touch. Why Retail Has a Bright Future. New New Menswear. Everything Else Is Yesterday’s News.
€ 15.00
ALPHATAURI.COM
© Jean Nouvel, Gilbert Lézénès, Pierre Soria et Architecture-Studio / Adagp, Paris, 2021
strellson.com
#wearindependent
25
3
Prost, Style-Kameraden!
LU I ST RENKER.CO M
25 Jahre Drykorn, 25 Jahre Stephan Huber und Style in Progress, 25 Jahre Luis Trenker. Das muss gefeiert werden. Lieber Marco Götz, lieber Stephan Huber: Auf uns!
Für alle, die die aktuelle Herbst/Winterkollektion nachbestellen wollen: shop@luistrenker.com Allen anderen verrate ich gerne persönlich alles über die Sommerkollektion 2022: michi@luistrenker.com
Those who commission us expect creativity, passion, determination, professionalism, and a somewhat different perspective. Those who commission us get exactly that and so much more. We are uncompromising and won’t be satisfied until you are 100% satisfied. After all, acting is like wishing… but tougher!
FUNKY_NOW GmbH, Berner Strasse 30, 60437 Frankfurt am Main info@funkynow.de, www.funkynow.de
Are you looking for a logistics service provider for textiles, accessories, or small-scale products? Please submit your enquiry to: info@logfash.com
LogFash GmbH, Bernerstrasse 30, 60437 Frankfurt
EDITORIAL
Cover photo: Boss
A New Beginning Welcome to these lines. It truly feels like a new beginning, be it in our cover interview featuring Daniel Grieder who finally assumed his new position as CEO of Hugo Boss on the 1st of June (“Creativity Is the Most Important Resource”, from page 088) or spectacular grand openings such as Browns Brook Street in London (Benchmark, from page 112). Holli Rogers, Browns Chair and Farfetch Chief Brand Officer, speaks of a turning point in retail. We did not choose “The Bright Future of Fashion” as the motto of this issue without reason, as Stephan Huber explains in his opinion piece (Welcome to The Bright Future of Fashion, from page 096). After all, the future awaits us on so many levels in this industry. There are entrepreneurs such as Funky Staff founder Uwe Bernecker, who seize the initiative wherever it comes their way (Times Four, from page 149). Then there are companions such as Marco Götz of Drykorn and Michi Klemera of Luis Trenker, who celebrate a triple 25th anniversary while taking a stroll with Stephan Huber (Walking on Sunshine, from page 104). The anniversary of the two brands coincides with a “soft” anniversary of style in progress. A quarter of a century ago, the first issue of x-ray marked the beginning of a path that we are still pursuing today. The fact that style in progress was founded a few years after x-ray is down to the then emerging new segments of New Menswear and New Womenswear. All the more fitting that the protagonists of what we call New New Menswear discuss the beginning of a new era with Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek in this issue. The Zoom salon dialogue (The New Rule: There Are No Rules, from page 158) features wise words like those uttered by Jacob Cohën Export Manager Gianluca Modena: “Our way of life has been changed by Covid and the deconstruction of the formal has accelerated dramatically as a result.” It was impressive to observe this development at the Pitti Uomo, where the industry celebrated a joyous homecoming. More evidence of how sorely face-to-face contact has been missed. And yet we still find impressive examples of people who are so much closer to us today than they used to be – despite the era of distancing. Nicoletta Schaper spoke to retailers from all over the German-speaking world who, to put it bluntly, nailed it (The Boutique’s Finest Moment, from page 134). We have the greatest respect for them and all those who paved the way for this renaissance of multi-brand retailing. You can look forward to an issue full of ideas, people, and brands of which we are convinced that their future viability has long been established. We are fully aware of our role within this ecosystem. Our editorial selection helps curate a piece of the “bright future” – and we do so passionately, from the heart. We hope you enjoy the journey and find inspiration in this issue! Your style in progress team
010
style in progress
CONTENT
088
132
010 EDITORIAL A New Beginning
139 Premium Fashion Line Topping up: sustainability pioneer Ecoalf expands.
016 RIGHT NOW 196 WANT IT
140 One Step Beyond How AlphaTauri sharpens its design profile.
THE LONGVIEW
141 Thinking in Stories Fil Noir lives up to its reputation: the finest in casual.
088 “Creativity Is the Most Important Resource” How Daniel Grieder intends to transform Boss into a pioneer in a future full of opportunities.
142 The New Woman Tee Bowery NYC debuts a t-shirt collection for women.
WHAT’S THE STORY
143 Very Personal Martina Schmidl unleashes her high-end activewear.
096 Welcome to the Bright Future of Fashion An opinion piece by Stephan Huber 098 Frankfurt is Everywhere How Frankfurt Fashion Week intends to redefine fashion trade shows. 100 So Much More More diverse and undisputed than ever: agencies. 104 Walking on Sunshine Luis Trenker, Drykorn, and style in progress share a 25th anniversary – and a stroll.
111 WELCOME BEYOND The best match of all: tech and human capital. 112 Benchmark Browns defines new standards in London. 120 One Size Fits One A look at which horizons personalisation can touch. 122 Tech News Bits-and-Bytes from the world of digital fashion, apps, and e-commerce.
132 THE WOW FACTOR The future of fashion is female. 134 The Boutique’s Finest Moment How to beat a crisis with heart, strategy, and personality. 138 Content First American Vintage establishes a competent denim range. 012
style in progress
144 “We Strive to Offer the Most Fashionable Trousers in the Market” The family business Schera succeeds with Seductive and Raffaello Rossi. 145 “We Like To Be Fashion-Forward” Relevant and affordable alike: Second Female. 146 “A Shoe Must Always Be Fun” Colors of California can do more than sandals. Here come the sneakers. 147 “We Are a Social Brand” Dutch brand JOSH V has set its sights on the DACH market. 148 On Level X The heartbeat of Daddy’s Daughters is cashmere. 149 Times Four Funky Staff is no longer Uwe Bernecker’s only arena. 150 Lifestyle Loop Minimum demonstrates the viability of circularity. 152 Sustainability for Everyone Sustainably manufactured basics are embedded in EasyBio’s DNA. 153 Vegan Sneakers With Glam Factor Løci – a sneaker shooting star that exclusively relies on vegan or recycled materials. 154 “The Customer Rules – It’s as Simple as That!” Rag & Bone rolls out its fashion in Europe.
CONTENT
014
156
186
156 NEW NEW MENSWEAR
175 COMMERCE CENTRE
What comes after ready-to-wear? 158 The New Rule: There Are No Rules! How menswear is changing forever – a salon dialogue featuring protagonists of change. 162 “I Simply Enjoy Trying Something New” Andreas Weitkamp says B when others say A – that is his strength. 163 Deluxe Knitwear Phil Petter oozes style in Austrian-manufactory quality. 164 “We Want To Do Things Better” Craftsmanship and quality define the shoes and bags by Royal RepubliQ. 165 “Only the Best” Giada is so much more than a producer – a chat with Jean Michel Wohlmann. 166 With Attitude Seidensticker proves it is capable of more than shirts. 167 Preppy Heritage Meets Zeitgeist Gant adds the next chapter to its success story. 168 The Return to Craft Terra Luna is a fair shirt specialist. 169 “Green Denim Is Our Challenge” Outerwear brand People of Shibuya enters the realm of denim. 170 Creativity, Innovation, and Function Alberto is always willing to go that extra mile. 171 “We, Right Here Right Now, Are the Future” Ready-to-wear rebel Tagliatore pursues international expansion plans. 172 Treading New Paths Duno blends extensive manufacturing experience with a young mindset. 173 “La Martina Is Like First Love” A shoe specialist who values loyalty: Giano. 174 The Italian Way of Americano Italian manufacturing meets sportswear casualness: Tom Ripley.
Save the city centres? Yes, but with new ideas!
style in progress
176 A Future Without Shopping Boulevards The demise of stores makes room for innovation: bold statements on city centres. 179 Future Hub for Early Adopters The Latest turns a store into a laboratory. 180 “Too Many Wonderful Projects Remain Mirages” Manifattura Tabacchi in Florence is creating a new city centre. 181 “Entirely New Job Competencies Will Emerge” Arvato Systems facilitates the scaling of new business models. 183 An Interface To Avoid Vacancies Freiraum of Berlin provides digital native brands with physical touchpoints. 186 Opening New Doors Progressive retail concepts from around the globe.
FASHION
204 Say It Loud Kickstart the new season with the spring/summer 2022 trends.
IN STORE
214 Storefront Ticker. The personal experience is paramount. 217 The Human Element Is Essential. Dresscode by Martina Schormann/Detmold 218 Showtime! Erhard Schuh und Mode/Prien am Chiemsee 220 Colour Equals Life. Wait and See/Milan 221 Second Base. Thiel’s by Daniel Thiel/Wiesbaden 222 She Loves What She Does. Selendi-Gangart/Wels 223 Destination Store. Apropos The Concept Store/Tegernsee & Cologne
224 EDITOR’S LETTER
The Magic of the Human Touch
224 ABOUT US
RIGHT NOW FASHION
No ” er-or h “eit : d e w allo readies n obra abric r u f Ta y r e d v e d an n i w for ather. we
TECHNOLOGICAL BREAKTHROUGH
By applying an electrical charge during the polymer solution spinning process, ALPHA TAURI has succeeded in developing a three-layer fibre membrane that makes its carrier fabric 100 percent waterproof. The microscopically thin Taurobran matrix turns jackets and sweats into functional all-rounders. www.alphatauri.com
Summer Cuddles
A stole over the shoulders for cool summer nights or a turban for the beach? 100 percent cashmere scarves like those by Pin 1876 are also ideal for the summer season: soft, light, and, in this case, sustainably manufactured in Italy. What more could one ask for?
“
We have been stocking Dondup for four seasons and I am thrilled with how well the brand is developing in both the womenswear and menswear segments. It is forging ahead because the collections are cutting-edge and plenty of work has been done in terms of marketing. Dondup’s greatest strength remains a mix of beautiful classics and very bold pieces. The collections are so diverse, which is essential for sales: it allows us to address each customer individually.” www.dondup.com
Daniel Thiel has just opened a second store in Wiesbaden. Dondup is an anchor brand.
016
style in progress
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
Francesca Lusini: “The women‘s collection in particular was met with great approval and grew by 56 percent year-on-year.”
Peuterey
“The DACH Region Remains the Most Important Market”
The last seasons were exceptional. What prompts you to believe in a recovery? Francesca Lusini, President of Peuterey Group: First and foremost, I am proud that our group responded swiftly to the pandemic. Coupled with the even stronger ties we have developed with our partners, customers, and suppliers, this has enabled us to contain the decline in sales. New projects, such as the Peuterey Recycle capsule, and an 80 percent year-on-year increase in our e-commerce growth figures support our optimism. How did the DACH area respond to the women’s collection? In 2020, all collections developed very well and achieved 50 percent growth. The women‘s collection in particular was met with great approval and grew by 56 percent year-on-year. What are the highlights of the women’s collection? The Peuterey women’s collection will expand. In addition to our outerwear, we invest heavily in total-look collections such as the Soft Attitude line, which features products that are gender-fluid and genderless in concept. In addition, we still have Plurals. This line aims to appeal to a younger audience through abundant creativity. www.peuterey.com
Soft Attitude, a new line by Peuterey, focuses on pieces that are gender-fluid and genderless in concept.
Fresh styles on point: Envii delivers monthly new looks for fast-moving, sustainable product ranges.
Envii
FAST FORWARD
Almost monthly deliveries and moderate prices are their clear focus. With Envii, Peter Sextus and Per Ulrik Andersen, the founders of Scandinavian brand Samsoe Samsoe, strive to offer a sustainable answer to the fast fashion market – designed in Copenhagen. www.envii.com
WEARING COMFORT? WITH FASHION, PLEASE! Here to stay. Drawstring trousers are among the clear winners of the last few seasons. What speaks for them? For one, nobody really wants to forego the comfort they offer. What speaks for trousers by White Sand in particular? Italian fashion expertise paired with an unconditional will to innovate the product continuously.
style in progress
017
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
How do they do it? Drykorn always impresses anew with fresh coolness.
Fred Götz, Head of Design at Drykorn Menswear: “We are so passionate about what we do, which is why we do it so well.”
Drykorn
“CONSUMERS ARE HUNGRY FOR SOMETHING NEW” Your menswear is a permanent fixture in many product ranges and impresses anew every season. How do you do it? Fred Götz, Head of Design at Drykorn: We always only launch pieces we would like to wear ourselves. We always try to remain cutting-edge. We discuss everything that happens out there. Does it suit Drykorn? Is the timing right? We scrutinise every piece from all angles. However, the overall package must also be coherent, from trade fair presentation to campaign. Only then will customers be impressed. What challenges are you facing in terms of design? We need to rethink ready-to-wear, because this segment will grow again as soon as normality starts to return. Nobody wants a sports jacket from two years ago anymore, so we continue to build on our strength of disrupting ready-to-wear. One example is our Drymatic line featuring elastic ready-to-wear pieces. Then there are our Composés: pleated trousers to match with an overshirt in a similar fabric, with a lighter finish and a wider cut. We are also working on new lapel and jacket shapes. What do you expect from your customers? We would like to move forward in a positive spirit. Consumers are hungry for something new. Our collection contains many pieces that the retail trade can rely on.
Coster Copenhagen
BACK TO FORMAL
Pia Coster designs her collections as versatile and multi-polar as she defines her customers’ demands, driven by contradictions that can be easily reconciled. This is what zeitgeist looks like when translated from Scandinavian. www.costercopenhagen.com
No ifs and buts: Coster Copenhagen offers a liaison of formal leisurewear.
018
style in progress
Not Without My Sandals
Two-strap sandals are summer essentials. Since designers elevated them to the catwalk, they can be worn for any occasion and to every outfit. Models with an extra kick, such as the neon colours of Colors of California, are sought-after.
WWW.STETSON-EUROPE.COM
PITTI UOMO Florence June 30 - July 2 2021 Booth B/2-4 Fortezza da Basso Padiglione Centrale
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, WARM ME! Warm Me’s 10th anniversary – initially a beanie collection, but now a label of comfort and cosiness: hats and knitwear from Nepal alongside jumpers and t-shirts from a Portuguese manufactory as the latest addition. www.warm-me.com
Organic cotton jumpers and t-shirts made of Lyocell complete Warm Me’s all-season collection.
Everybody’s Favourite
It is impossible to envisage product ranges without denim pieces. Their casualness is obligatory, but they should offer a little more. In the case of Goldgarn Denim, visible and tangible craftsmanship, as well as the careful use of resources, are additional selling points.
“They listen to us, plain and simple.”
SPARRING PARTNER AT EYE LEVEL
“We no longer need to ask for permission,” is how Frank Häusler describes his team’s guiding principle and preference for collaborating with small European brands. “We appreciate suppliers who listen, and Bob is an excellent example. We meet the owner at the Pitti Uomo in Florence and discuss the collection as a team. By the time I want to place the order, what we discussed is already implemented. BOB primarily embodies exceptional shirts and polos, but the label has developed into a complete look. Agility paired with a strong DNA is what we have in common. One challenges the other.” www.bobcompany.it, www.modepunkt.de 020
style in progress
Amazing how one sentence can say so much about the relationship between a supplier and his customer. Frank Häusler of Modepunkt Häusler has found an excellent partner in Bob.
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
On the Way Up
“
I am most impressed by the dresses, which sell superbly as individual pieces due to their easiness,” says Uwe Maier about Christian Wijnants. “The cool prints and casual cuts not only look great on petite women.” The Stuttgart-based retailer has been stocking the collection for five seasons, with growing success. “Christian Wijnants is definitely on the way up. I like the fact that the sales approach remains selective nonetheless.” www.christianwijnants.com
Below the belt: Silk Sisters is not only expanding the collection for spring/summer 2022 in terms of substance, but also in terms of style with trousers and skirts, new prints, and details.
Bungalow owner Uwe Maier and his store represent exclusive and wearable fashion brands, and he is always open to exciting discoveries.
Silk Sisters
Never Overdone
“For us, freedom of movement doesn’t mean simply adding width, but creating thoughtful silhouettes for casual elegance,” says Mel Nienaber of Silk Sisters. In summer 2022, skirts and trousers are introduced to a collection featuring a few prints and a more progressive colour palette whilst remaining true to its discreetly understated style. www.silk-sisters.de
MAKE A DIFFERENCE! Cashmere knitwear is highly popular, not least because the knitwear product group in general has been outperforming of late. “Women simply prefer a cosy jumper for an outfit with a casual touch, even if fashion dictates wearing a blazer,” says Alexander Schütz of Top Chic in Traunstein. Consumers attach great importance to responsible production, such as depicted in this image from Daddy’s Daughters.
022
style in progress
mou-online.com
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
ON THE ROAD AGAIN Prints and messages add a little spice. The most visible place to find them is currently on classic trucker or baseball caps. Stetson uses true-to-theoriginal vintage motifs that resonate with a nostalgic longing for nature and wilderness.
Ivi Collection co-owner Ivonne Beneke-Eidmann: “Our fashion is supposed to inspire joy; you can sense the attention to detail.”
Ivi Collection
“WE LOVE COLOURS, WE LOVE PRINTS”
Why is Ivi Collection so hard to pass up? Ivonne Beneke-Eidmann, co-owner of Ivi Collection: Over the past twelve years, we have earned a reputation for beautiful, imaginative prints combined with high quality standards. We love colour, we love prints! We are among the first collections to specialise in this field. To this day, we stand for relaxed, uncomplicated pieces with style and aspiration. What do customers love? They love our cheerful, bold, and lively vibe. The best example is the “Fly Away” tunic, which always features a certain twist. Besides wellplaced prints, for example, it boasts carefully selected buttons or cuffs made of lurex knit. Going the extra mile is what defines us. We discuss every tiny detail! Our customers can sense the positive energy we put into our work. What convinces the retailers? We support them as reliable partners. On the other hand, we are an owner-managed company that is extremely nimble and can adapt readily to new circumstances. Our current collection was born out of extensive experimentation. In addition to silk and viscose, we have transferred our style to cotton, terry, and jersey. We are very excited about how the collection will be received! www.ivicollection.com
Ivi Collection has succeeded in making colour and bold prints its trademark.
Stands out in sustainable product ranges: Save the Duck.
Save the Duck
Contributing “Save the Duck‘s revolutionary styles align very well with Breuninger’s sustainability strategy,” says Johannes Rosenbaum, Head Buyer at Breuninger in charge of Divisional Merchandise. “It is our ambition to further promote the use of sustainable materials, thereby making a significant contribution to a sustainable textile and consumer goods economy.” www.savetheduck.com
024
style in progress
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
Kangol
Creative Powerhouse Headwear specialist Kangol takes “from head to toe” literally by adding an apparel line to its collection. In doing so, the brand, famous for the iconic Kangol 504 flat cap and its popularity in the rap scene of the 1980s, takes the next logical step. www.kangol.com
Transit
Essential
At first glance, the Transit collection appears casual and self-evident. At second glance, it reveals craftsmanship and a fine sense of design. www.transit.it
An iconic product can be both a blessing and a curse. By means of prominent design collaborations and constant evolution, Kangol has managed to transform itself from a cap idol into a total look.
Exceptional materials, timeless elegance: Transit has everything that makes a real “Made in Italy” collection.
Mark Hegelau runs “The Wants” in Cologne together with his girlfriend – and influencer – Michaela Brandl (@michivonwant).
“
In the first season, we ordered 32 pairs of boots from Mou. Today, we order 500. They are usually sold out after two weeks, forcing us to reorder. Mou is, simply put, a perfect match for our store concept. We don’t just sell shoes; we also sell the story behind the product. Our branding and communication agency supports our brands in terms of sales. Mou has gained its own dedicated fan community very quickly.”
026
style in progress
SUSTAINABLE PREMIUM KNITWEAR SINCE 1973 S/S 2022 WWW.PHILPETTER.COM
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
So Feminine
K
atrin Koller-van Eersel on the collection by US designer Ulla Johnson: “It is an excellent price substructure alongside designers such as Zimmermann or Prada. The picture shows one of my favourite dresses. I enjoy most patterns, all cute tops, and the hippie dresses.” www.ullajohnson.com
el Past nd s e a shad ngths: le midi Cinque o i r Vica ue dress r t . is a alist speci
Katrin Koller-van Eersel is the head buyer for Diva Salz burg and the First Lines of Casa Moda St. Pölten and Linz, as well as Knilli Graz.
Vicario Cinque
MIDI
Midi follows maxi: lengths to above the knee make these dresses appealing to many sizes and age groups. There are many occasions that call for a midi dress, even in northern climates. Be it in the office or on holiday, Italian premium manufacturer Vicario Cinque focuses on flounces and powder shades. www.vicariocinque.it
Mey
Knock on Wood
Mey: Tencel, Modal, and Viscose are now FSC certified.
028
style in progress
Flowing jerseys are an “evergreen” in fashion – and if you treat the underlying raw materials with care, this is literally true. Mey is now the first company in Germany to certify its wood-based materials, such as Tencel, Modal, or Viscose, as FSC compliant for the sustainable use of forest resources by having all materials tested by the independent SCS Global Services. www.mey.com
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
Mell-o Cashmere
FANCY SOCKS
Cashmere socks made of deadstock, dyed in a cool batik look: Olivia Pflugfelder-Jünger has pulled off a major coup with this one-product wonder. Be it Jades24 or Anita Hass, retailers have fallen in love with these feel-good socks made in Nepal. www.mell-o.com
Luxury for your feet: Mell-o Cashmere offers finest fourthread cashmere dyed in batik look.
“
Blouses by Tonno & Panna flew off the shelves in the very first season, not least because the price/performance ratio is so compelling. Customers reach for the blouses and are instantly impressed by their quality, their clean cuts, and – of course – their price. The collections are self-evident, meaning they don’t really require a sales pitch.”
Silva Kromer, owner of Modehaus Elfi in Münster, knows precisely what is trendy and appeals to her clientele. Tonno & Panna is an important anchor brand.
A total look for every occasion.
NUDE UND PRINT Nude shades and prints of all kinds remain the classics of the summer. This combo of an ankle-length skirt and relaxed top shows how wonderfully natural colours and large prints can harmonise (both by Trvl Drss).
030
style in progress
SPRING SUMMER 22
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
le ainab Sust ear by w outer plare. e s E m Esemplare
FORM AND FUNCTION
Inner values make the difference. Functionality remains an important selling point, especially for summer jackets. Esemplare is a pioneer in product development. The image shows a model that has it all: a water-repellent, quick-drying jersey hoodie with eco-certification. It even offers UV protection. www.esemplare.com
For both dinner and an evening stroll: knitted jackets relax the ready-to-wear segment. Maurizio Baldassari’s product champion is Mouline Swacket.
Maurizio Baldassari Brera
The Scaglione collection forms the knitwear segment of Niklas Rill’s eponymous fashion agency.
Swacket
Here to stay. It is hard to imagine New New Menswear without the knitted jacket that combines the comfort of knitwear with casual ready-to-wear elements. Maurizio Baldassari Brera calls its successful models Mouline Swacket. www.mauriziobaldassari.com
PASSION FOR VERSATILITY
“
Be it wool, cashmere, or cashmere silk, the family business manages to surprise anew every season with wonderful materials and particularly versatile styles,” says Niklas Rill, explaining the quality of Scaglione. The attention to detail is tangible in the designs. Retail prices of 150 to 350 Euros offer an additional selling point. www.scaglione.it
032
style in progress
THE LIGHT JEANS CHINO
ITALIAN SELVEDGE DENIM alberto-pants.com CREATED IN MÖNCHENGLADBACH
REVOLUTIONAL ® GRAVEL BIKE PANTS
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
SARTORIAL SKILLS
Super fit, high-quality materials: trouser specialist 9 IN THE MORNING from Veneto seems to be doing everything right. “The collection guarantees success, even in difficult times,” enthuses Gaby Ventrella. “The trousers already exhibit a certain coolness with attitude on the hanger.” The utmost importance is also attached to the sartorial interior finish. The initially dominant, masculine statement is disrupted and complemented by feminine, flowing materials. www.nineinthemorning.com
Lena Schulze is the womenswear buyer at Crämer & Co in Nuremberg. She knows exactly what the younger generation expects when shopping.
“
We initially introduced Canadian Classics in 2016 as an alternative to our range of down jacket brands in the upper price segment, because not everyone is willing to spend 700 Euros on a jacket. However, the collection very quickly made the transition to an established label. The cuts and the colour palette are very popular, and the option to buy vegan versions of jackets is a great additional selling point.”
Manhattan Knights
Say It loud
Statement shirts that cover the whole spectrum are back – from political stance to personal mantras. The only “no-go” are Covid slogans. Manhattan Knights by Samuel Murkofsky creates streetwear with a flair for rebellion, love for eccentricity, and pronounced distaste for label hype. www.manhattanknights.com
034
style in progress
The t-shirt as communication channel: You think it? Then wear it!
Fancy
for future /
Fair und nachhaltig produzierte Loungewear von mey. www.mey.com
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
CUSTOMER-DRIVEN Henry Christ embodies sustainable cashmere for purchase prices between 148 and 169 Euros, at a mark-up of 2.7. “Henning Kunstreich and Christian Holst are great partners. They support us wherever possible, because they value us as a link to the local customer. Furthermore, they forego their own online trade and the brand dumping that usually comes with it,” says Constanze Niedner. What do her customers love about Henry Christ? The cuddly soft qualities and the wide range of colours. www.henry-christ.com
For her store Jagdfieber in Rottach, Constanze Niedner exclusively buys special items that are not widely available. She names Henry Christ among her most important collections.
Capobianco
Not Left Out in the Rain
Italian label Capobianco has the perfect solution for warm summer showers: a hooded jacket made of pure linen that is, however, 100 percent water-repellent. www.capobianco.world
A new coating technology makes a linen raincoat possible.
dipThe dles an dye c Candle d g an y by C e-catchin y y e n a e ar to tions . i d d a store
Candy Candle
DIP-DYE CANDLES
Chewing gum colours in duo-tone candles bearing names such as Lollipop, Limoncello, or Marshmallow: Candy Candle is the perfect grab-and-go product. Retail prices for so-called Baby Candles start at 5.95 Euros. www.candycandlehamburg.de 036
style in progress
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
Herbert Volkmann is the face of menswear store Stereo Muc in Munich.
THE JACKET WITHOUT SLEEVES
“I’m particularly impressed by the Aspesi Archive collection,” says Herbert Volkmann of Stereo Muc. “The brand relaunches old models featuring new materials or silhouette updates, creating an outstanding symbiosis of the old and the new.”
Initially merely part of the whole, the waistcoat has evolved into the centrepiece of a look. There are virtually no limits to variations and silhouettes. “Modellreihe W10” describes a bestseller of waistcoat specialist Dornschild. The style is based on a denim waistcoat, reinterpreted in the brand’s distinctive look.
North Sails
SENSITISED “There is fundamental consumer interest in sporty topics, coupled with function, wearing comfort, and sustainable aspects. North Sails covers all fields very credibly,” says Christian Völke, head of men’s business attire, knitwear, and shirts at Konen in Munich. “Our customers are proactively demanding sustainability, and we want to offer such brands a proper platform. In addition, we are constantly learning from these partnerships, addressing the topic of sustainability, and implementing improvements in our company as well. It raises awareness and initiates thought processes.” www.northsails.com 038
style in progress
Rafael Fernandez Caballero, World and European Champion of Underwater Photography, is the protagonist of North Sails’ new Go Beyond campaign.
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
Cruna
Stay Cool Essential in summer: linen. In a total look, the natural fibre represents the zeitgeist, especially as it softens the appearance of ready-to-wear. www.cruna.com
SUSTAINABLE SUMMER Beach holidays in 2021 require a sustainable touch, be it plastic minimisation, ocean-friendly sun creams, or swimming costumes and shorts made of environmentally friendly materials. SOSEATY, an Italian brand, offers pieces made of such recycled materials.
Nicole Doleh is widely known for her Viennese Inked shops, and she also runs the Golden Goose mono-brand store in Vienna. Now she has launched an Isabel Marant mono-brand boutique.
Effortless in Cruna’s linen look.
“
Isabel Marant is the queen of cool chic, with a touch of
‘French bohemian’ and ‘easy street style’. She is the free spirit among designers,” explains Nicole Doleh. “The designs are no longer merely playful, but they reflect a self-confident type of woman. A woman who embraces life to the fullest while mastering the balancing act between coolness and elegance,” says the fashion entrepreneur, who opened an Isabel Marant mono-brand store in the centre of Vienna in mid-May.
040
style in progress
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
“The development of KIEFERMANN gives us great pleasure. The collection builds on its strengths and manages to add effortless class to a casual look. Moreover, we appreciate the highly collaborative partnership with the company.”
STAY DRY
Multifunctional rain jackets are in high demand. They appeal to urbanites who travel by bike or e-scooter instead of by car. Italian outerwear brand FREEDOMDAY emphasises the functional character with a strap that is an ideal feature for carrying the jacket over the shoulder like a backpack when it isn‘t needed. www.freedomday.it
www.kiefermann.com
Clemens Sagmeister is Managing Partner of Sagmeister – Der Mann in Bregenz, Dornbirn, Feldkirch, and Lech am Arlberg, as well as children’s fashion store Der Kleine Sagmeister and Schmitt & Lair in Innsbruck.
ay omd Freedires with ct p ins nt produ s a ige intell ures suchying feat ical carr rain t prac s for its strapjackets.
Alban Macé lives and works on Mauritius, where parts of his collection are manufactured.
Fabulous Island
“We Create a Universe of Happiness”
Super-soft t-shirts and sweaters complement fine knitwear and casual vintage looks with a positive message. Fabulous Island presents bestsellers with zeitgeist factor. Alban Macé, founder and designer of Fabulous Island: Yes, we implement the special vintage spirit of the 1980s and 1990s with sustainably produced fabrics and recycling initiatives. Do you follow the classic seasonal rhythm, or do you depart from it? We create a new collection every season, but it never replaces an existing one. We don’t appreciate the fast fashion system. Fabulous Island is meant to be a universe in which every customer can find happiness. What do you attach particular importance to when choosing retail partners? Our brand stands for a very familial lifestyle, which is why we look for customers with great energy and beautiful stores. www.fabulous-island.com
042
style in progress
Interwoven values: Fabulous Island’s casualwear is characterised by a sense of family.
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
An An Londree
“OUR CUSTOMERS EXPRESS THEMSELVES WHILE SHOPPING” Exclusively developed prints are An An Londree’s trademark. What are the advantages, apart from uniqueness? Angelika Paschbeck, co-founder of An An Londree: Our handcrafted silkscreen designs may be elaborate, but we can choose the colours ourselves. This allows us to regulate production as sustainably as possible. We are not shackled by minimum orders, meaning we are free to design without overproducing. Why do retailers love you so much? Our collection is emotional and moving. Retailers can order any model in any print, creating a truly unique look for their stores. They also love the fact that we focus on details others often forget, like our hand-stitched labels for instance. www.ananlondree.com
“We believe in the magic and comfort of colourful, beautiful dresses,” says An An Londree co-founder Angelika Paschbeck.
Made in Veneto: every Maison Flâneur piece is hand-finished.
Hand-printed, hand-embroidered: An An Londree conceals a message in every piece.
FASHION IS FUN Fashion that puts a smile on your face is always a winner. AMALIA O., which recently added low-threshold t-shirts to its dress and skirt collections, wins over hearts with slogans such as “Size Egal”. www.amalia-o.at
Maison Flâneur
Luxury Meets Coolness Challenging design twists are implemented via traditional manufacturing techniques. Other collection strengths are handcrafted cashmere and baby alpaca pieces. www.maison-flaneur.com style in progress
043
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
RESET BUTTON
New designer, new international sales manager, a new sales agent in the DACH region in Michael Prues: Traiano Milano has pressed the reset button. The key asset of the collection remains the innovative fabric, which has its roots in sports and makes every piece washable. www.traiano.com
ilano n no M io Traias its fash ns g k twea l and reali s. leve structure its
Six percent cashmere lends the jeans, with their slim but relaxed silhouette, their special quality.
Eduard Dressler
CASUAL LUXURY
Cashmere and jeans? Sounds like a promising combination. Eduard Dressler creates a soft and luxurious touch with its ED 1929 cashmere denim pieces crafted in Italy. Six percent cashmere lends the jeans, with their slim but relaxed silhouette, their special quality. They come in three washes at a retail price of 199 Euros. Key accounts include KaDeWe, Engelhorn, P&C Vienna, and Excelsior Zurich. www.eduard-dressler.com
044
style in progress
STATEMENT PIECE
“
One of my absolute favourite pieces,” says Alexandra Kiefermann, owner and designer of Iheart. “The leather waistcoat turns every outfit into an eye-catcher, even a simple poplin blouse. An added bonus is that it’s actually intended as an indoor waistcoat, but it’s also a great outdoor addition for summer and autumn.”
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
Grace
LOVE IT OR LEAVE IT Grace designer Martina Zinnecker has her own distinctive style. “Grace addresses a very specific target group,” argues Gerhard Knaus of Salzburg-based agency Knaus oder Knaus. “That’s why Grace is such a success story at retailers whose customers are within that group.” www.grace-fashion.com
Arma
Un expected Leather, be it the vegan or real variety, remains a strong style element. Alongside all-time classics like leather leggings (the trendiest are now white), wider trousers with elastic waistbands add the perfect touch to an outfit. Arma’s bestsellers come in light colours such as “Cream” and “Camel”.
Statement pieces that embody colour and cheerfulness: Grace.
Rag & Bone shows off its strength: casual ready-towear infused with the urban look and feel of its hometown, New York.
Rag & Bone
Ready-to-Wear Known for its cutting-edge denim expertise, American premium label Rag & Bone is about to take the next step in Europe. The brand is presenting its extensive ready-to-wear collection in the Munich and Düsseldorf showrooms of fashion agency Ben and. The White Label makes its debut alongside the even more exclusive Black Label. www.rag-bone.com
046
style in progress
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
Sold Out
“WE
ARE EXPANDING”
Marion, Sold Out has received excellent feedback from retailers. What is the next step? Marion Hoferer, owner of MODEist: Sold Out is our comfortable brand for indoors and outdoors. We are now adding Sold Out Knit, an equally “loose” range of knitwear. The collection will be a tactile surprise! We are expanding the range from around 40 to 120 pieces. The early delivery dates contribute to the allure of your collection, right? Yes. Receiving new merchandise in November is crucial for many retailers. That is exactly the right time to present a new product setting. Will you retain your strategy of being a collection for specialised retailers? Definitely. Sold Out is perfect for those who serve their customers with the utmost individuality, regardless of whether the stores are open or not. Our retail partners maintain a steady bond with their customers. www.modeist.com
Sold Out exclusively serves specialised retailers. The choice not to collaborate with e-commerce giants is deliberate.
Marion Hoferer relies on Sold Out’s casual, fashionable feel-good factor.
Back to Colours!
Cappuccino hues to pastel shades? Those weary of the Instagram filter look are now turning to colour – even in clothing for at home. This is precisely why the loungewear by
Emily Lovelock
er + Web er’s b e W swear n en wom on its owns pe standeet, inde bel’s two f of the la r. dent enswea m
Weber + Weber
THESE LADIES!
Weber + Weber is undisputedly a protagonist of the new understanding of menswear. Now Christian Weber has decided to put his extensive experience in womenswear to good use. Before launching his own label, he successfully worked for and with designers such as Donatella Versace and Victoria Beckham. www.weberweber.it
048
style in progress
is so successful. The Indian brand also offers an everyday collection featuring great dresses, tops, and tunics. www. emilylovelock.com
RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n
Starnberg-based designer Michaela Sassenbach relies on “Made in Germany”.
Pride to Be
GO SUMMER!
Pride to Be is extending its summer collection to complement its strong winter pieces. The brand’s current collection features a colourful and competent range of around 60 blouses and dresses made of linen and cotton, as well as 30 pure cotton shirt styles in 15 colours as a NOS programme. Summer knitwear in 15 styles, featuring fake down, add an outdoor element. www.modeist.com
Pride to Be presents a linen and cotton collection to complement its outerwear. The focus is on dresses.
Sassenbach
MADE IN GERMANY Flowing fabrics, bright colours, and prints as of next summer – Michaela Sassenbach has significantly expanded her range. The success formula for trousers, blouses, dresses, and shirts remains high-quality materials combined with the fact that all pieces can be ordered in sizes 34 to 46, including a permanent reorder option. The collection is on show in Modeist’s showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. www.sassenbach.de
050
style in progress
has ores “Dol d to enage od man s feel-go t i e,” e r c o han ce m n o h touc s Marion say rer. Hofe
Dolores…
Feminine and Cool The Dolores trouser collection is expanding its spectrum with ten new shapes in 15 unis. “Predominantly casual slip-on pieces in very fashionable cuts, that is our speciality,” says Marion Hoferer of MODEist. www.modeist.com
MATTEO TAGLIABUE SS22 COLLECTION MINIMUMFASHION.COM
JULI KOCEMBA SS22 COLLECTION MINIMUMFASHION.COM
RE:CONNECT
RIGHT NOW AGENCIES
Komet und Helden
A SIGN OF STABILITY “It’s time to show strength and stamina,” argues Henrik Soller. “We have created stable structures that remain resilient even in times of crisis.” Such structures are more important than ever: “The job of the agency is to find the best possible solution for supplier and retailer, and it‘s good to see that there is a real willingness to talk on all sides at the moment. The fact that we are in this together is not lip service.” Komet und Helden has expanded its portfolio by adding two new brands, Purple Brand and Aspesi. “We are very excited about Purple Brand, an exciting premium denim range that we will only introduce very sparingly. Aspesi plays in the Champions League: an Italian classic that never forfeited its modernity. That’s really impressive,” Soller says. Labels: 7 for all mankind, AG, Aniven, Aspesi, Baracuta, Barena Venezia, Blauer USA, C.T. Plage, Deus ex Machina, Dickies, Halfboy, Hartford, Le Bonnet, Lola, ottod’Ame, Purple Brand, Save the Duck, Universal Works, White Sand Komet und Helden, Munich, Düsseldorf & Berlin/Germany, info@kometundhelden.de, www.kometundhelden.de
Strong motifs: Ko Samui Tailors for men and women is a new addition to the Heritage Showroom portfolio.
Heritage Showroom
New addition to the Komet und Helden portfolio: Purple Brand of New York
IN NAVIGABLE WATERS Michael, is there news to share? Michael Brockmann, Managing Director of Heritage Showroom: We are relaunching the t-shirt and sweatshirt segment with cool styles by Ko Samui Tailors that convince with a great variety of motifs. The t-shirts are priced at 25 Euros for purchase and 79 Euros in retail. Warm Me is also launching a sweatshirt and t-shirt for the first time this summer. You added Esemplare to your portfolio last season? Yes, the collection has already entered navigable waters, not least because we managed to secure important accounts. We are particularly excited about the soft sweat-scuba material for hoodies and jackets, which go perfectly with clean-cut trousers! What would you like to draw the buyers’ attention to? To our full package. Circolo’s Easywear displays a huge jersey expertise that makes all the difference in comparison. Myths trousers are also a great fit for the trend, because they are wider cut, have a comfortable drawstring, and make clean looks casual. Labels: Candy Candles, Circolo 1901, Esemplare, Ko Samui Tailors, Myths, Warm Me Heritage Showroom, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-showroom.de, www.heritage-showroom.de
056
style in progress
The sustainable streetwear of Wise Enough is readily available.
Modeagentur Cocron “We have added Psalida of Italy, a collection featuring many dresses and self-developed prints,” says Uli
Cocron. “Typical ‘Made in Italy’ collections such as Vicario Cinque remain our agency’s strong suit, because their innovative spirit and quality still excite us.” The agency also represents streetwear collection Wise Enough, which was successfully launched in Austria last season. “All materials are eco-certified, and the in-house designs can be manufactured and delivered at short notice.” www.cocronmodeagentur.at
RIGHT NOW AG E N C I E S
Ykon Agency
LIFESTYLE SPECIALISTS Mo Gosh’s Hamburg-based agency has significantly upgraded its portfolio of beautiful lifestyle and beauty products. Plainly, for example, is a new clean beauty hand care brand from Munich. The vegan unisex products are made of high-quality natural ingredients, all sourced from German suppliers. The active ingredients of the hand wash, hygiene gel, dish wash, and two hand creams are ideally harmonised. The entire range is free of synthetic fragrances or dyes, parabens, paraffins, sulphates, and silicones. Dermatological tests confirm a “very good” skin tolerance. The Plainly range comes in reusable glass bottles with labels printed on wood-free stone paper. The packaging is made of recycled paper. Plainly products are already stocked by all eight Monocle stores. Labels: Aquion Water Filters, Beaumont Organic (GER), Christy’s London, Gerlups (GER & AUT), Holy Shocolate, Luhta Home, Merz b. Schwanen (GER), Paranormal Coffee Roasters, Plainly, Zeha Berlin Ykon Agency, Hamburg/Germany, mo@ykon-agency.com, www.ykon-agency.com
Claudia May Fashion Agency “We have added no less than four new collections,” reveals Claudia May.
MODEist has relocated to a new showroom in “Heinrich-KleyStrasse” in Munich.
Piazza Sempione is strong in trousers and getting stronger in knitwear. Then there is Sfizio from Veneto, featuring plenty of colour and prints in linen and cotton. On top of that, two labels with soul are starting up in Germany. The dresses, blouses, skirts, and trousers by Holy Caftan are embroidered by hand in Sorrento, while Nina Leuca of Puglia is reviving cross-stitch borders on modern, flattering linen dresses. www.claudia-may.de
MODEist
RELOCATION TO FASHION MALL BRONCE A positive step forward: Marion and Timothy Hoferer have vacated their Munich showroom on “Frankfurter Ring” in order to relocate to Fashion Mall Bronce. “We have grown, and so has our collection. We are delighted to have sufficient space to reflect the extraordinary development of our labels here in the fashion mall,” explains Marion Hoferer. It is particularly important to the mother-son duo that the collections in the showroom interlock and create a coherent ensemble. “Each of us has our own passions, but together they paint a modern bigger picture,” Marion Hoferer smiles. Labels: Alpaca Loca, Avantgarde Spirits, Controfigura, Dolores…, Griffin, Gudrun & Gudrun, Catarina Martins, La Milanesa, Lara Krude, Pride to Be, Rue de Tokyo, Sassenbach, SassiCara, Sold Out, The Kaia MODEist, Düsseldorf & Munich/Germany, modeist@vahoferer.de, www.modeist.com
Piazza Sempione has returned to the fold of Claudia May Fashion Agency.
style in progress
057
RIGHT NOW AG E N C I E S
Stolz Modeagentur “The investment has paid off,” says Hubert
Stolzlechner about his Alpine Classics showroom, which opened last season featuring brands such as Habsburg, Josef & Anna, Grassegger, and Steiner 1888. “We strive to offer retailers a marketplace, to be a reference point for cultivated, authentic alpine style,” explains the entrepreneur. Long-standing employees ensure perfect service. Even collections that are not represented by the agency, such as Meindl or Rockmacherin, find shelter in the showroom during the season. www.hstolz.at
Alpha Studio is a reliable partner who implements classic styles with a modern twist.
Stolz Mode agentur offers a marketplace for upscale alpine classics.
Adventure Fashion
FOCUSED
Adventure Fashion is ready for a new, exciting spring/summer 2022 season. Marc Kofler and his team can look back favourably on the last few months and are optimistic about the future. “We always went about our business in a concentrated and professional manner and managed to achieve good results with long-term partners. We are also constantly on the lookout for cool, new labels.” The new arrivals range from swimwear by Janthee Berlin to a 100 percent cashmere collection by Kashette. Another new addition is Trusted Handworks: simple basics for men including t-shirts, sweatshirts, and hoodies, all made of certified organic cotton and offering optimal wearing comfort. Adventure Fashion is now also the sales agent for 120% Lino’s womenswear and menswear in Austria. Labels: 120% Lino, Cosy Love Pure, Dekker, DL1961 Denim, Duno, Geospirit, iheart, Janthee Berlin, Kashette, Odd Molly, Orciani, Peuterey, Rosa & Me, Sebago, Tonno & Panna, trvl drss, Trusted Handwork Adventure Fashion, Düsseldorf & Munich/Germany, info@adventure-gmbh.de, www.adventure-gmbh.de
Meier Rybinski
VERSATILE “Our agency offers a versatile portfolio of designer and contemporary collections,” says Anna-Zoi Rybinski. “A consistent brand portfolio ensures safety, service, and innovation.” Alpha Studio is a reliable partner who implements classic styles with a modern twist, but who also allows for very trend-oriented approaches. “The quality level and the unbeatable price structure are equally impressive,” argues Rybinski. The purchase price for t-shirts is 40 Euros, while dresses cost between 60 and 100 Euros. Pin 1876 by Botto Giuseppe has also reliably recorded healthy sales over many seasons. “The large cashmere shawls, at purchase prices between 80 and 90 Euros, are bestsellers. They can be restocked in many colours during the season.” As a wearable second line, Boutique Moschino also appeals to the younger target group. “Quality and fit are sensational, given the backing of Aeffe, one of Italy’s best high-quality producers.” Labels: Alpha Studio, B&L Blümlein & Lang, Boutique Moschino, Fuzzi, Max & Moi, Moschino Soft Accessoires, Muse, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Pin 1876 by Botto Giuseppe, Weill Paris Meier Rybinski, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@meier-rybinski.de, www.meier-rybinski.de Simple yet refined basics: Trusted Handwork is a new entry at Adventure Fashion.
058
style in progress
FA S H I O N
FA S H I O N &
SHOES July 24 – 26, 2021 Showroom Concept July 22 – 26, 2021 AREAL BÖHLER GALLERY-DUESSELDORF.COM
SHOES
SHOES &
FA S H I O N August 29 – 31, 2021 Showroom Concept August 27 – 31, 2021 AREAL BÖHLER GALLERY-SHOES.COM
RIGHT NOW AG E N C I E S
Kick start in the German-speaking market for Rag & Bone: Ben and continues to expand the customer base and introduces the ready to wear and exclusive Black Edition.
Bold statement: Axel Arigato
Ben and
“NOW IS THE TIME TO BELIEVE IN THE FUTURE” Anyone looking for entrepreneurial optimism would do well to ring your doorbell, Ben. You and your team have spent the last few months gearing up for the new season. What can we expect? Ben Botas, owner of Ben and: We have resolutely pursued our growth path of the last few years. Part of this strategy is the clear demarcation of our three segments: Luxury, Premium, and Young Fashion. We have added Rag & Bone and GCDS to our Luxury portfolio. In the case of Rag & Bone, we have decided to debut the brand’s ready-to-wear range in Germany. The new segmentation also entails demarcation in the showrooms. We expanded to 1,300sqm in Düsseldorf by taking over a neighbouring showroom. The Luxury brands are shown exclusively in the new showroom. In Munich, the Luxury brands are moving into the villa. That allows us to demonstrate a clear alignment. Your annual report for 2020/2021 sounds like something from another world: growth across the board. How is that possible? We have worked hard over the last few years and largely achieved our ambitious targets for 2020 and 2021, despite the pandemic. One reason is the out-
060
style in progress
performance of some existing brands such as Axel Arigato and Moose Knuckels, both of which went through the roof in the winter. Second Female enjoyed its best season ever. We observe that manufacturers realise, not least due to the current circumstances, that intensive support and customer proximity are essential. Another reason is that brands that are well-positioned and work efficiently generate above-average revenue. Is this a renaissance of strong brands over shadowing strong products? I am convinced that the brand, the communication, and the image campaign in which a collection is presented are absolutely crucial. If you want to surpass a certain level, you simply cannot do it without a strong brand. Sure, the product remains important, but it is not enough on its own. Labels: Axel Arigato, Beck Söndergaard, Chimi, Filippa K, GCDS, Gina Tricot, Hvisk, La Martina, Limitato, Løci, Mason’s, Minimum, Moose Knuckels, Na-kd, Nu-In, Rag & Bone, Second Female, Stefan Brandt, Wood Wood Ben and, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com
RIGHT NOW AG E N C I E S
Strong sales figures combined with social commitment: accessories by Ibeliv of Madagascar.
Meta Pesch “We are really excited about the hand-batiked linen knitwear by Amuse,” says Meta
Pesch. “It’s a cool pairing for jersey blazers.” Daddy’s Daughters relies on summery colours like soft pastels and, for the first time, neon shades for knitwear. New additions include unlined linen blazers and t-shirts. “Derbe’s sustainable outerwear is performing very well. The re-orders are insane!” Onedaybaby, which offers loungewear and hand cosmetics, is a newcomer to the portfolio. www.metapesch.com
The Wearhouse “We firmly believe denim is gaining traction and have added the Incotex Blue Division jeans collection,” says Patrick
Ebnoether. “We also remain focused on sustainability, which is becoming increasingly important to consumers.” Save the Duck continues to extend its lead as a pioneering brand, followed by National Geographic and Daniele Fiesoli with recycled cashmere knitwear. “Today, successful retailers need to offer experience and content, and we strive to support them in doing so.” www.wearhouse.ch
Sassan and Sandjar Safay manage a global sales network for fashion and lifestyle brands.
SASAtrend
FULL-SERVICE DISTRIBUTION Leading brands to international success is what Sassan and Sandjar Safay do best. SASAtrend handles the distribution of fashion and lifestyle brands from its European headquarters in Aachen. The third dimension of the company’s business model entails co-branding opportunities involving lifestyle labels. For distribution in the USA, Europe, and the international market, SASAtrend co-
062
style in progress
operates with 40 regional partner agencies. Accordingly, the network of active retail partnerships encompasses more than 2,000 online and offline stores worldwide in all categories, from high-class fashion boutiques to department stores, opticians, cafés, concept stores, bookstores, museum shops, and airport shops. Sassan Safay: “We are in a position to address the entire retail spectrum and thereby maximise sales potential.” Fashion brands: Bobi Los Angeles, BSB, Cristina Beautiful Life, Devotion Twins, Emily Lovelock, Gorin Bros., Johnny Was, Lotus Eaters, Potzy, Miss Me, Rock Revival, Smashed Lemon Lifestyle brands: Chilly’s, Gaston Luga, Ideal of Sweden, Nuoc, Sorbet Island, Sunnylife, The Gift Label, Vinoos SASAtrend, Aachen/Germany, info@sasatrend.com, www.sasatrend.com
Made of sustainable bamboo jersey: Mützenmafia of Graz is one of Meta Pesch’s bestsellers.
FOURTENINDUSTRY.COM
DIEHINTERHOFAGENTUR.DE
RIGHT NOW AG E N C I E S
Agentur Knallgrau “We are super happy with our new addition, Cute Stuff. The knitted and printed cashmere scarves at a purchase price of 89 Euros are a hit,” says Bettina Groeger. Another new
addition is Mary‘s by Mary from Osnabrück, featuring plenty of recycled, fluffy-light knitwear, now complemented by a linen capsule. “Besides, Floor is developing fantastically thanks to innovative knitwear combined with casual Papertouch styles, and because the Italian family business is a reliable partner.” www.knallgrau-agentur.de
Agentur Knallgrau has been representing Floor in the DACH region for five seasons.
Michael Prues “I am not going to operate as an agency in the classical sense,” says Michael Prues about
Gestuz is among Select Studio’s long-standing anchor brands.
Select Studio
NEW SHOWROOM IN DÜSSELDORF Select Studio is entering the new season with an enlarged showroom in Munich’s “Balanstrasse”, a new showroom in Düsseldorf (“Am Bennigsen Platz 1”), and even more depth in terms of content. “When working with international clients, we need to remain highly organised and offer an all-encompassing service,” explains Select Studio owner Bernard Waage. Now, when important strategic decisions need to be made, the consulting skills of an agency are more important than ever. “In turn, we offer buyers precisely the right balance of brands with which they can grow strategically, such as Gestuz, and exciting new arrivals like Envii that add an individual touch to product ranges.” Labels: 8 PM, A Fish Named Fred, Birgitte Herskind, Brandblack, By Marlene Birger, Dante 6, Day Et, Decadent Copenhagen, Envii, Freebird, Garment Project, Gianni Chiarini, Hetrego, Hudson London, Markberg, Mercer Amsterdam, Munthe, Oscar Jacobson, Premium Basics, Tomorrow, Saddler, Sand Copenhagen, Simple, Suncoo, UBR Select Studio, Düsseldorf & Munich/ Germany, info@select-studio.com, www.select-studio.com
064
style in progress
Michael Prues as we know him, illustrated by Rodrigo Saldana.
his new role for the likes of Traiano Milano and FPM. He provides the brands with his two decades of experience as a consultant. Orders are placed directly in the brand’s showrooms whenever possible. While Traiano Milano and suitcase brand FPM focus on establishing a solid structure in the DACH markets, Michael Prues will take care of developing export markets for Weber + Weber from September onwards. www.pixint.de
Niklas Rill Fashion Agency “I am super curious about the fresh collections and would like to develop new ideas together with the retailers,”
says Niklas Rill, referring to a creative partnership that goes beyond the usual. The Nim succeeds once more in further developing fabrics and styles for denims. Bowery NYC is currently expanding its women‘s line and Scaglione‘s knitwear impresses with light material mixes in many colours and with varied styles, for women and men alike. www.niklasrill.de
Niklas Rill is extending his agency’s womenswear portfolio, as shown here by The Nim.
RIGHT NOW AG E N C I E S
Modeagentur Klaus
BEST PERFORMANCE “We are well placed with our brands,” says agency owner Christian Klaus. “What our collections have in common is that they work as individual pieces. They are casual, easy to wear, and, above all, have their own profiles. Everything that promises comfort is performing particularly well in the retail sphere.” Penn & Ink is a collection that generates growth even in difficult times. “The brand’s visual language is on point, because it triggers emotion,” argues Klaus. He cites the Penn & Ink Technostretch pants and the Oakwood leather jogging pants as winning styles from last season. “For the new season, I am a strong believer in dresses by Gustavs, JC Sophie, and Marc Aurel. These brands conceptualise their collections by theme, which allows them to inject bundled topics into the season and reignite a desire for fashion.” Labels: Penn & Ink N.Y, Humility, Kyra & Ko, Freedomday, Free Jacket, POM Amsterdam, JcSophie, Gustav, Marc Aurel, Margittes, Oakwood, Resort Finest Modeagentur Klaus, Salzburg/Austria, office@modeagentur-klaus.at, www.modeagentur-klaus.at
Michaelis Fashion Agency
EMOTION!
Mirjam Fuchs has a wealth of experience in establishing brands. She has positioned Weber+Weber’s womenswear in an impressively high-quality environment.
MPH Agentur “It’s important to me that the brands I work with have their hearts in the right place,” says Mirjam Fuchs, a
successful one-woman show in Switzerland with MPH Agentur. “Establishing brands in Switzerland is what I do best,” laughs the entrepreneur. Her portfolio includes brands such as G-Lab, Friendly Hunting, Weber+Weber, and, most recently, aws twentyfourseven. The latter is a knitwear collection from Switzerland that impresses with local production and progressive design. www.mphagentur.ch
“We strive to trigger emotions,” say agency owners Daniela and René Michaelis. To this end, they have added the colourful dresses and tunics by Genesis to their portfolio. “The label uses viscose and viscose silk. Moreover, retail prices ranging from 149 to 229 Euros are sensational.” Yippie Hippie holds its own as a bohemian pioneer manufactured in Europe, including Germany. Absolut Cashmere is eco-certified and performs reliably, courtesy of punctual deliveries and low-peel, long-staple cashmere in 30 colours. As of last season, the equally sustainably manufactured cashmere line Crush from England has been added. “Crush is priced up to 15 percent above Absolut Cashmere and is a superb addition featuring fashion-forward power seller styles.” Peuterey remains the agency’s biggest name. “The brand aims to be 100 percent sustainable by 2024,” says René Michaelis. “We are fully committed to supporting this goal.” Labels: Absolut Cashmere, Bellamy, Crush, Genesis, Peuterey, Yippie Hippie Michaelis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, mail@michaelis-fashion-agency.com, www.michaelis-fashion-agency.com
GTA now translates its bestsellers into casual-comfortable women’s models.
Paul’s Selection “We are on first-name terms with partners,” says Paul Schulz, explaining his Very contemporary: Humility of France.
066
style in progress
sales approach. “We not only offer service, but also promote sales at the POS to convey background stories.” The GTA trouser collection is introducing its first women’s models range while expanding the design-casual segment, which has already won over many men. A new addition is Henderson Baracco, a men’s footwear brand that successfully bridges the gap between classic and casual at retail prices between 270 and 450 Euros. www.paulsselection.com
Absolut Cashmere: always fashionable, always comprehendable.
RIGHT NOW AG E N C I E S
Agentur Evelyn Muth
GOOD VIBES After 40 years of success, Christiane Peek, the daughter of Evelyn Muth, is taking over the eponymous Düsseldorf sales agency. “I’m looking forward to an agency 2.0 start,” says Peek, who intends to establish a more commercial segment alongside luxurious heritage brands such as Arche and Castaner. A new addition to the portfolio are bags by Gap, which the agency represents in the DACH market. “The name signifies cool street style; like the well-known hoodies,” explains Peek. “Bags, backpacks, and hip bags in many colour variations are now building on this foundation, at retail prices between 50 and 150 Euros.” Bikkembergs sneakers hope to replicate past success. “The football boot pioneered fashionable sneakers,” says Peek. “Now innovations make for a very fresh collection that also develops a sustainable element.” The third addition is Fiorelli: bags with floral prints that also appeal to younger women. Useful inner pockets provide function; some bags can be converted into backpacks. “The vegan materials feel great,” argues Peek. “At the same time, the price-performance ratio is unbeatable at retail prices between 40 and 100 Euros.” Following a fashion reorientation, the DKNY bag line is being repositioned in the market. Finally, the agency’s luxury segment is being reinforced with the Heritage line by Clergerie. “Every shoe is a piece of art,” Peek gushes. The retail prices for summer key pieces reach 550 Euros. Labels: Arche, Avril Gau, Bikkembergs, Castaner, Clergerie, DKNY, Gap, Fiorelli, Maison Mollerus Agentur Evelyn Muth, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@evelynmuth.de, www.evelynmuth.de Fiorelli bags also appeal to young women.
Christiane Peek has agreed to take over the agency founded by her mother Evelyn Muth.
Innovations and a new logo: sneakers by Bikkembergs.
068
style in progress
RIGHT NOW AG E N C I E S
Agentur Moormann
PEOPLE, PRODUCT, PARTNERSHIP “We consider it our duty to develop individual concepts in collaboration with our suppliers and retailers, because people, product, and partnership are important to us,” says Timo Moormann, owner of the eponymous agency. “This also entails facilitating customisation, especially as personality is playing an increasingly decisive role in stationary retail.” Maurizio Baldassari succeeds in doing so with business casual wear that combines a neat look with comfort, closely followed by Gimo‘s and the Stouls leather collection, also capable of producing in small batches. “Lately, it is this flexibility that has appealed to retailers’ regular customers.” A product innovation by Zanieri is a new lightweight cashmere yarn that allows for an ultra-lightweight knit that was previously unavailable for men. Valérie Khalfon has expanded its design team to further develop the Everyday Urban segment of its collection. Labels: Allessandro Gherardi, Claussen, Emanou, Gimo’s, Inès & Maréchal, Maison Lener, Maurizio Baldassari, Project E, Stephan Boya, Stouls, Valérie Khalfon, Zanieri Moormann & Co, Düsseldorf/Germany, moormann@moormann-co.com, www.moormann-co.com
Elvis Fashion
LIFESTYLE-CENTRED READY-TO-WEAR
Parajumpers is a prime example of successful brand development.
For Elvis Giglione, owner of sales agency Elvis Fashion, the last season was somewhat of a challenge. “It has become even more apparent that the era of the banker’s suit is well and truly over.” Consequently, Elvis Fashion embraced the casualisation of menswear at an early stage, which is reflected in the agency’s portfolio. The brands not only have “Made in Italy” in common, but also represent the modern menswear movement. Tombolini, for example, offers suits made of regenerated wool that can be washed in the washing machine. “I am convinced that we will return to wearing jackets again. Who would want to sit in a restaurant or bar wearing a hoodie? Sure, formal wear needs to embrace lifestyle, but the desire for timeless elegance remains.” A new arrival is Fioroni Cashmere and More, handcrafted in Italy from the finest of yarns. Labels: Bagutta, Brooksfield, Capobianco, Cruna, Fioroni Cashmere, Francesco Pieri, Manto, The Gigi, Tombolini Elvis Fashion, Munich/Germany, elvis.giglione@elvis-fashion.com, www.elvis-fashion.com
Agentur Schwarte
CONTINUITY X CHANGE
“We are successful crisis managers, but we are looking forward to returning to normality now,” says Matthias Schwarte. He and his team focused on being reliable partners for retailers and suppliers alike over the past few months. “The most important thing is to maintain a dialogue,” he says, “and to represent brands that consumers care about, even when stores are in lockdown. Things are much easier when a brand has claimed a permanent place in the lives of its end consumers.” Schwarte cites Parajumpers as a prime example: “A good indicator of whether a brand is being bought for its product or its image is when it transcends its traditional territory. If the customer says: ‘Sure, I’ll buy a sweatshirt with their logo on it, because it’s an established brand’, then one knows that the brand has done its homework.” Labels: Armani Exchange, Balr, Collezione 01, Cup 30039, Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Mason Garments, Parajumpers, People of Shibuya, Replumè, Saucony, Sundek, Weber + Weber Agentur Schwarte, Munich/Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de
Valérie Khalfon offers feminine everyday apparel for beach outings and urban adventures alike.
style in progress
069
RIGHT NOW AG E N C I E S
Among the reasons for the positive mood at Die Hinterhofagentur are the sweats and t-shirts by Fabulous Island.
D-Tails
RESTART, RESHAPE, REWARD The headline is the motto of Patrick and Ute Coppolecchia-Reinartz. “Restart, because we want to tackle new challenges with drive and energy. Reshape, because only genuine, authentic products perform for upscale retailers and set them apart from the competition. Reward, because those who increase margins, avoid price reductions, and invest in reinforcing their positioning and image are rewarded.” The agency showcases new accessories labels offering products such as designer music boxes, iPhone cases, and water bottles. D-Tails strives to enable retailers to become more lifestyle-oriented, sharpen their product range, and offer curated merchandise. “The new additions to the womenswear range, namely I love my pants and Kniit, have already garnered excellent feedback from beacon retailers in several cities.” Labels: Akep, Anita Bilardi, Andrea´s, Barba Napoli, Borsalino, Cantaloupe Espadrilles, Euterpe Studio, Gallo, I love my pants, Izmee, Kaya Sophie, Kniit, Michael Coal, Morgano Maglieria, Phonie, Ripani, Sealup, Suns D-Tails, Munich/Germany, info@d-tails.de, www.d-tails.de
Die Hinterhofagentur
“STARTING THE NEW SEASON FULL OF CONFIDENCE” Anyone who talks to Dominik Meuer these days senses pervasive confidence, optimism, and anticipation. “Our industry is strongly dependent on gut feeling, and that is changing for the better continuously. We notice that in many areas. Our partners have mastered
the challenges of the crisis and emerged stronger, even the smaller owner-managed businesses from Italy. I’m incredibly proud of that,” he says looking back at the trade show kick-off at Pitti Uomo in Florence. The labels Bob, Manuel Ritz, and Four.Ten showcased their collections there. “Real trade fairs are more essential than ever, not least as a signal to the entire industry.” Dominik is very pleased with the development of existing collections. “We embarked on a journey with Fabulous Island and RRD a season ago and are looking forward to a strong summer. Fabulous Island continues to expand its t-shirt range, and this is our first joint summer season with RRD. We can see great potential here in the combination of technical appeal translated into fashionable designs. Denim label Taylor Tweed is also expanding its collection, which features unusual washes. I was hugely impressed by the Bob team, who have always shown tremendous flexibility towards their clients and reflect the zeitgeist with their positive attitude.” Labels: Ad Hoc, Bob, Bread & Boxers, Des Petits Hauts, Fabulous Island, Four.Ten, Hamlet, Koike, Manuel Ritz, Original Vintage Style, Portofiori, Prime Shoes, RRD, Taylor Tweed, The Jacksons, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, info@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de
Agentur Stefan Wittmann “We don’t wait for our opportunities, we create them,”
says Stefan Wittmann referring to the new season. The agency can fill gaps in the autumn-winter 2021 range with short-term delivery dates, a service provided by Les Deux and Terra Luna menswear. The cashmere capsule collection Collezione N_01 is also available at short notice by pre-order with a delivery date in September, as is the feminine womenswear by La Fée Maraboutée with several pre-produced capsules for the entire season. www.agentur-wittmann.de
D-Tails is starting this season with plenty of new accessories and lifestyle products in tow.
070
style in progress
Readily available: cashmere by Collezione N_01.
WWW.GOLDGARNDENIM.DE // IG: GOLDGARNDENIM
Goldgarn Denim Essentials
Der Großteil der Kollektion wird aus 100 Prozent Baumwollqualitäten realisiert, denn erst mit diesen charakteristischen Eigenschaften passt sich das Produkt über das Tragen hinweg dem Körper der Trägerin an und formt sich individuell.
MAKE IT YOURS
RIGHT NOW AG E N C I E S
Agentur Ventrella
“DISRUPTION IS VITAL”
Back for good: Nolita.
Agentur Prins-Juric “We need to have fun too,”
Damir Prins-Juric argues. His Instagram followers find reason to laugh several times a week. “Without laughter, what’s the point?” To ensure that the agency, which maintains showrooms in Berlin, Düsseldorf, and Munich, lacks nothing, there are several new additions to report. Nolita, a legendary Italian womenswear brand, hopes to replicate past success. Wushu Sneakers of Italy serves the mid-price segment. Brand Unique and Zanetti are two more Italian additions. Josh V hails from Henk Prins’ native Holland. www.prins-juric.com
Michele Ventrella and his team are excited about the coming season. “It promises to be the season of renaissance. I have returned from our partners bursting with new ideas and optimism.” NineintheMorning has expanded its range to include a denim capsule for the upcoming SS22 season, featuring new denim blends, super soft and flowing denim bindings, and bull denim – also available in colour or denim qualities from Japan. The special washes endow the styles with brilliance and softness. “The trousers fit perfectly and will impress customers much like the pieces of the main collection.” NineintheMorning is also investing in more sustainable production. A new addition to Agentur Ventrella’s portfolio is Backsideclub, a young, successful streetwear label that hails from northern Italy. “It is a label for retailers willing to break with the past. Believing in the future is what motivates me to present these shirts, hoodies, caps, and skateboards to my customers,” Ventrella explains. Labels: 813, 820, Avanto Toi, Backsideclub, Bazar Deluxe, Bush, Caliban, Cheeky Chain, College, Ennequadro, Giovi, Le Sarte Pettegole, Ndv Project, Nove, NineintheMorning, Pao, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei
style in progress
Bold colours and cool cuts make us long for summer,” says Meike Schilcher. “Adding OneDayBaby to our portfolio is great news. Vegan hand cosmetics and sustainable loungewear, manufactured in Portugal, are perfect for fashion concept stores.” Wunderfell offers a special service: pre-order bestsellers can be reordered until the end of August for an additional delivery date at the end of November.
Knaus oder Knaus “The retail trade has taken advantage of its opportunities,” says
room with a view room with a view starts into the new season with plenty of positive vibes and justifiable optimism. The
072
Die Modeagentin Meike Schilcher “Luis Trenker relies on a Wimbledon-inspired easy-wear collection featuring retro styles.
“This is an exciting shift in which strong relationships with retailers and suppliers are essential,” argue Gerhard and Isabella Knaus of Knaus oder Knaus.
Bring on the next round: room with a view intends to retain online sales calls via Zoom.
online sales calls via Zoom, which became commonplace during the lockdowns, will be retained by the agency when the restrictions are dropped. “We simply love connecting brands and retailers to get them talking. Moreover, first-hand information is not only great for buyers, but also motivates the sales staff and marketing employees,” says Christian Obojes. www.roomwithaview.at
Game, set, and match: Luis Trenker is a core brand of Meike Schilcher’s agency.
Agentur Ventrella presents modern “Italianitá” in its showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf.
Gerhard Knaus of Knaus oder Knaus. “The fact that many are now even closer to their customers results in more accurate orders and excellent partnership-based cooperation.” According to Gerhard Knaus, the showroom he manages with his wife offers a home to reliable brand partners who know the benefit of investing in Austria. The agency’s portfolio currently includes highly rated collections such as Juvia, Sincerly, iHeart, Kiefermann, and leather label Arma, as well as G-Lab, Distretto12, and Grace. www.knausoderknaus.at
sassenbach_style
w w w. m o d e i s t . c o m |
modeistagency | info@b-kleidung.com | +49 151 64 50 64 85
RIGHT NOW With LaMunt, the Oberalp Group launches an all-female brand.
Elho
REVIVAL The German sports brand with more than 70 years of history had disappeared completely for two decades. Now it has returned! Elho stood for bright neon-coloured windbreakers when windsurfing was the hottest trend sport. The brand offered vividly coloured jet trousers and garish ski overalls with all-over patterns when mono-skiing was considered a revolution on the slopes. Today, the t-shirt and sweat silhouettes featured in the Elho collection are oversized again and largely based on originals from 1989. A small team of ski and fashion enthusiasts secured the worldwide rights and initiated the Elho relaunch in September 2020. www.elho.de Flashback? Elho is back! The mastermind behind the brand is Ruth Oberrauch.
Boutiquery
SHOULDER TO SHOULDER It makes perfect sense. Boutiquery is a joint online marketplace of stationary boutiques offering fashion, shoes, and accessories at reduced prices. “Each shop has its own presence,” says Managing Partner Andrea Tauss, a sales professional who launched Boutiquery with Khang Chen and Josè Lopez. “The platform is easy to manage. No fees are charged other than the commission for each item sold. This allows retailers to launch an online shop on the spot without major investment costs.” Each boutique maintains its own warehouse and arranges shipping. “After a successful start in Switzerland, we are planning to establish Boutiquery in Germany and Austria, where we are still looking for suitable partners.” www.boutiquery.ch
Boutiquery is a joint online outlet of stationary fashion retailers.
074
style in progress
LaMunt
“FUNCTIONALITY AND FINESSE” What made you decide to launch a feminine mountain sports brand? Ruth Oberrauch, Brand Manager & Group Sustainability Manager at Oberalp Group: None of our five brands was more feminine than masculine. Needs like combining performance, functionality, and finesse were unmet. What distinguishes the brand? LaMunt represents a female perspective on the mountains and alpine sports. In terms of design, the focus is on high-quality materials and functionality. The sustainability principle is an integral part of the brand philosophy. How does it manifest itself? In addition to merino wool Tencel® jersey and double-faced knit made of merino wool and recycled polyester, LaMunt utilises a number of other recycled materials. The products are manufactured in factories committed to fair labour and social standards. Moreover, LaMunt is a member of the FWF. www.lamunt.com
RIGHT NOW
Glore
“A GOOD TIME” Glore, a “friendchise” collective of sustainable concept stores in Germany and Switzerland, is expanding. “It’s an excellent time to open new stores. Cities in which we have thus far failed to find suitable premises are suddenly of interest again,” says Bernd Hausmann, founder of Glore Nuremberg. The first step is taken by Glore Karlsruhe, where a 200-square-metre store is scheduled to open in August. The branch will be managed by Tina Bächle, who is moving back to her hometown after leaving the Haven sales agency. Other cities remain on the agenda for 2021. The Glore concept stores all operate independently. Glore provides the necessary coaching for new store owners, regular feedback and exchange, and a firmly established umbrella brand. www.glore.de
More fun together: the Glore shops in Germany and Switzerland are managed by independent partners.
The factory in Vallemosso is where the high-quality cashmere scarves of Pin 1876 are sustainably manufactured.
Mira Djuranovic and Petra Keclik realised a vision of their personal shopping dream with their store Herzenstöchter in the centre of Linz.
Pin 1876 by Botto Giuseppe
“WE STRIVE TO CONTRIBUTE” It is no coincidence that the first sustainability report of Botto Giuseppe, a real Italian family business, was published on the 22nd of April 2021, marking International Earth Day. Botto Giuseppe, and its accessory division Pin 1876, have been very conscious of environmental protection and fair working conditions since the beginnings, and the fourth generation remains committed to this approach. The sustainability report documents and confirms this commitment. Botto Giuseppe is, with immediate effect, among the companies that boast RWS and Cradle to Cradle certifications. “We manufacture collections that exclusively contain natural and biodegradable raw materials and are processed in sustainable production processes. We continuously invest in innovations that reduce the impact of production on the environment. This is our contribution to reducing greenhouse gases and combating climate change,” explains Silvio Botto Poala, CEO of Botto Giuseppe & Figli Spa. The data is impressive. Both production facilities are powered entirely by renewable energy sources. To date, 79 percent of waste is recovered. Water consumption and waste volume have dropped by 25 percent and 2 percent respectively. www.bottogiuseppe.com
Silvio Botto: “In recent years, our efforts have shifted towards research and sustainable development across all areas.”
Herzenstöchter
DON’T DREAM IT, BE IT “Herzenstöchter appeals to all women, as we are all daughters at heart,” says Mira Djuranovic, explaining the name of the store she runs with Petra Keclik. The world of fashion has fascinated the friends since they were children. “We have always been captivated by how an item of clothing can change people and boost their self-confidence.” Now mothers themselves, their joint business is the fulfilment of a shared dream. “At Herzenstöchter, customers can discover fashionable looks and real favourite pieces for every conceivable occasion. We present new styles on a weekly basis.” As a well-dressed woman enjoys an equally well-dressed man, the duo launched Herzensbrecher, a store for men, across the street – the second dream come true for the dream team.
style in progress
075
RIGHT NOW
Ave Anziehsachen
HAPPY 25TH BIRTHDAY How do you celebrate a quarter of a century of sophisticated fashion in Stuttgart during a pandemic? Stephan Kalbfell of Ave Anziehsachen decided to treat his customers. He presented his loyal clientele with high-quality cotton bags and scarves imprinted with “ReMember 1996” and the Ave logo. In turn, the customers appreciate the retailer for often being the first to stock certain brands and insider tips in Stuttgart. www.ave-anziehsachen.de Angela Billi-Tosio is the founder of LesDeux.
A sensible investment: the LesDeux Women store in Flims has grown in size.
LesDeux Women Store Flims
AMONG FRIENDS
In December 2020, the LesDeux Women Store in Flims was expanded to 280 square metres and supplemented with menswear. “Despite challenging times, we are convinced that it was the right decision,” says Fabienne Bischof, who manages four stores with her husband Silvio Bischof and her mother Angela Billi-Tosio. The store in Flims, which opened in 2018, is located in the Stenna Centre, an architectural building against a mountain backdrop, featuring shops, restaurants, a spa, and a hotel catering for an upscale clientele. The range for women comprises casual elegance by Weekend Max Mara, Lis Lareide, and Windsor, while the men’s range is dominated by Joop, Alberto, and Les Deux Copenhagen. The store also stocks exquisite spirits and
antique furniture. As in all LesDeux stores, everything on display is for sale. The investment in the now twice as large store makes economic sense for the entrepreneurial family: “Here, in a mountain tourist resort, we can offer seasonal products longer than in the towns of Horgen and Zug, where the new spring merchandise arrives as early as mid-December,” says Fabienne Bischof. “This alleviates product pressure.” The focus is on personal service, not on web shops. The store in Flims, managed by Karin Gartmann, is no exception. “We want people who visit us to feel like they are among friends,” adds Angela Billi-Tosio. “The only thing missing now is a shoe store,” she adds with a smile. www.lesdeuxwomen.ch
Was 1996 really a quarter of a century ago? Ave Anziehsachen in Stuttgart celebrated its anniversary.
Platte Berlin
INTERDISCIPLINARY Platte, initiated by the Berlin districts Mitte and Pankow, is a fashion retail project to promote local designers. It focuses on innovation, sustainability, and digitisation. Fashionistas will recognise the location at “Memhardstrasse 8” as the former home of Apartment Store. The first steps involve pop-ups, events, and exhibitions. Subsequently, Platte will be expanded to include a permanent retail area, as well as workshops, panel talks, a photo studio, and a digital platform. Community workshops and a tech lab are planned for 2022. Mitte’s mayor Stephan von Dassel: “Platte creates a central and visible location in the middle of Berlin where fashion is not only promoted as an economic asset, but also as a cultural asset.”
Retail, innovation, and creative collectivism: Platte in Berlin.
076
style in progress
Germany-Austria-Switzerland
Niklas Rill
Showroom München Römerstrasse, 14 80801 München (06-10 August 2021)
+49 176 84837541 mail@maend.de
Showroom Düsseldorf c/o Paul’s Selection Cecilienallee, 40 40474 Düsseldorf
RIGHT NOW
Weekday
RE-THINK Fast-moving products with an elevated trend factor: Weekday, a young fashion label affiliated with H&M Group, presents, among other features, a new t-shirt design every week under the heading “Zeitgeist”. Despite monthly order dates and weekly mini-programmes, the company is committed to the responsible use of resources and has developed a comprehensive package of measures under the motto “Re-Think”. www.weekday.com
Green Pea – the sustainable mall in Turin.
Green Pea
THINK BIG, GO GREEN A green wave is sweeping through Italy’s retail environment. The opening of Green Pea in Turin in December 2020 created a landmark for sustainable lifestyle. The world’s first green retail park spreads over 15,000 sqm and five floors: 66 shops, a museum, three restaurants, a rooftop pool, a spa, and the Otium, a club for creative relaxation on the last floor. This is where fashion, lifestyle, leisure, and culture converge. All tenants have one thing in common: they are all brands and companies that have internalised the principle of circular economy and strive to promote a sustainable lifestyle. Hence the pea as a symbol: it is round and green, like our earth should be.
As part of H&M Group, Weekday has established itself as a vertical concept with its own retail operations and is now venturing into wholesale.
FFW Studio starts off as an exclusively online event due to the pandemic. It will transform into a hybrid event in the future.
Kleinmachnow Fashion Days
If the big stages fail, then the small ones flourish. Based on this motto, the fashion agencies and brands based in Kleinmachnow near Berlin teamed up to create the Kleinmachnow Fashion Days. Launched in 2020 by agencies like PrinsJuric, even more showrooms and mono-brand order locations will participate from the 12th to 18th of July 2021. In total, more than 120 brands will be on display in Kleinmachnow/Dreilinden. “We are convinced that we, as sales agencies, are better off together,” says Damir Prins-Juric. “Seeing so many brands in a short time is great for customers.” 12th to 18th of July 2021, at participating agencies and brands
078
style in progress
Frankfurt Fashion Week
DIGITAL KICK-OFF Premium, Seek, and Neonyt have teamed up with a number of partners from fashion, politics, retail, and media to combine the future-oriented topics of the Frankfurt Fashion Week in a digital portal named FFW Studio. The studio is intended to be a contact point for design enthusiasts and visionaries. All items on the agenda focus on the leitmotifs of sustainability and digitalisation. Live conferences, brand experiences, and city events are to merge into a holistic ecosystem for fashion experts, buyers, and end consumers. The spotlight is on conference formats featuring more than 130 international speakers, which are broadcast live and free of charge from the 5th to 9th of July before being made available via a video-on-demand platform. The Frankfurt Fashion SDG Summit presented by Conscious Fashion Campaign, in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, celebrates its premiere alongside a conference titled “The New European Bauhaus - Workshop of the Future”. The latter is organised by Fashion Council Germany in cooperation with Frankfurt Fashion Week. Visitors can look forward to a concise and high-quality synthesis of information, orientation, inspiration, and entertainment, combined with a holistic, contemporary user experience. www.frankfurt.fashion
Giano Srl
+39 0734 510489
info@giano.eu
RIGHT NOW
Parajumpers
“FUNCTIONALITY WITH A HEALTHY DOSE OF FASHION” What is there to report regarding SS22 jackets? Cristina Paulon, International Sales Manager at Parajumpers: As every year, Parajumpers puts a lot of its efforts in research and innovation. The highlights of the men’s collection: the Pararescue series, always with new details, this time in fun colours; the Rescue Shield series, crafted with silver foil and inspired by rescue blankets; the Foul Weather jacket, the one and only of its kind for extreme weather conditions. For the lightweights collection, the Evo Quilt series features synthetic padding, completely different stitching, and bright, fun colours. The Pro Light series is a functional and practical new addition characterised by a mix of fabrics featuring stretch inserts in the most delicate parts of the jacket. What about the women’s collection? Our brand focuses on functionality with a healthy dose of fashion. Highlights include: the Easycare series, crafted in cotton-linen-nylon; the Rain series, a cape and feminine parka made of the lightest and semi-transparent fabric; the Trail series, inspired by Eighties running gear in a combination of three different colours. For the lightweights collection, the Reversible series features different styles with contrasting colours, extra feminine shapes, and directly injected down; the Flare series adds a touch of delicacy with a light crinkle fabric, garment-dyed and pastel nuances; the Easywear series presents casual pieces with a combination of feminine and very functional elements, crafted in an innovative biodegradable nylon ripstop. Will you add new categories? There is always a willingness to add new categories alongside the new jacket series. For SS22, Parajumpers has decided to add a capsule series of pants, for both men and women, adding the chance to match tops, bottoms, and jackets. Increasingly complete: Parajumpers complements its jacket and outdoor competence with capsule collections such as trousers.
Amuse
CONSUMER-DRIVEN What is lacking in retail? What would women really enjoy wearing right now? Meike Schilcher and Susanne Hannig believe that Amuse provides personal, consumer-driven answers to these essential questions. The spring-summer 2022 collection focuses on two main themes. “The Desert theme explores the world of the modern city nomad, featuring graphic prints on summery cotton stretch sweats,” explains Schilcher. “The Coast theme takes you to the coasts of Europe, featuring stretch dresses and terry knits, as well as batik on fine cotton knits.” Accordingly, the colour palette includes sand, black, flame red, white, navy, and Gitane blue. All pieces are organic and fair trade compliant, knitted in Europe and sewn in Germany. www.amusefashion.com
080
style in progress
Amuse, no matter what they say! The collection wants its name to be interpreted literally.
- the fashion vest brand WWW.DORNSCHILD.COM
DESIGNED IN MUNICH & MADE IN EUROPE
RIGHT NOW
Bloglab
Avant Toi
CLAIM YOUR STAGE
“TOUCHING THE SOUL” Why does fashion have a bright future? Mirko Ghignone, co-founder and Creative Director of Avant Toi: We believe in a bright future. We were all forced to decelerate by the pandemic, to rethink our “modi operandi”. We are experiencing a new awareness, a reverence for longevity and sustainability – this mindset will prevail. What does one have to do to remain one step ahead? It is important to travel and rediscover the sheer pleasure of exploring faraway places. When this delight is reflected in the lines, fabrics, and colours and touches the soul of the customers, they feel as if they have been swept away with us. We rely on positive and vibrant colours, a real colour therapy. What’s next for Avant Toi? We plan launch a sneaker collection for women and men that ties in with the themes and colours of our main collection, featuring micro-stitch, mesh, and Sangallo lace – exclusively hand-painted, of course.
A private spot for high-quality posts, bookable via an app: Bloglab sets the stage for retailers, both locally and internationally.
What goes out online returns offline. Awareness of the impact of professional communication via media and online channels for the retail trade is nothing new. However, it requires more than a smartphone to create relevant social media content for your store’s image campaign, to attract an international audience, to present new collections, and to highlight the skills of your staff. This is where Bloglab comes in. The company provides the framework and corresponding services to allow influencers, employees, local celebrities, regular customers, or owners to create cross-media content in a dedicated booth directly in-store. The photos and videos can then be shared via the desired media channels. Bloglab itself collaborates with agencies and influencers. The company also offers PR services. www.bloglab.world
Blauer USA
MORE FASHION! Versatile and functional are two key terms to describe the Blauer USA collection for spring/summer 2022. The focus is on jackets that impress with innovation, such as typical police apparel styles, reversible anoraks, blazers, field jackets, and overshirts. New shapes have been created for women, such as a kimono poncho. Among the materials, we find piece-dyed bonded nylon fabrics, shiny stretch, and a satin-neoprene blend, as well as ultra-light varieties and, as a highlight, shiny perforated leather combined with jersey. The sustainability theme is reflected in organic cotton, an organic stretch material for trousers, and recycled fabrics. Shirts, polo shirts, oversized knitwear, t-shirts, tracksuits, and sweats complement the typically American look alongside long sweat skirts, fashionable tops, and curvy dresses for women. www.blauerusa.com
The world of Mirko Ghignone, co-founder and creative director of Avant Toi, revolves around colour and artistic hand-crafted finishes.
082
style in progress
Blauer USA shifts its focus to innovation, offering new silhouettes and materials.
RIGHT NOW
Silk Sisters
The Bogner Woman and Man collections focus on the brand‘s trademark “loose elegance”.
Bogner
“CASUAL AND ATHLUXURY” Why is it so worthwhile to rediscover Bogner this spring? Franziska Wastian, Head of Brand Management at Bogner Fashion: Bogner embodies luxurious sports fashion, combining style with functional athleticism. Bogner is constantly evolving and surprises every season: contemporary, but always with a special twist. For spring/summer 2022, we offer a sustainable and cross-gender Econyl capsule. It includes 2-in-1 jackets for men and women, hoodies, swim shorts, bucket hats, and bottle bags made of recycled nylon sourced from ocean waste. What is your favourite piece from the spring/summer 2022 collection? In the case of Bogner Woman, it is the new summery “Lacquer Jacket” made of super-shiny ripstop material with a detachable hood in a short, feminine silhouette. It is available in navy, camel, and red. The innovative ripstop range is complemented by the “Lacquer Vest” in a modern silhouette with accentuated shoulders. For Bogner Man, our latest innovation is the “Suiting Concept”, entailing newly interpreted combinations suitable for semi-festive to casual occasions. The range extends from luxurious bi-stretch suits in 100% wool to elegant travel suits in DWR nylon with high elasticity, from technical athleisure suits in cotton-jersey to lightweight cotton poplin casual suits. The tailoring theme is explored through new silhouettes. The tops are “utility inspired” blouson styles or overshirts. Does casual remain dominant? We are still observing a strong casual trend, which is perfectly in line with our athluxury sports fashion focus. The trend has even accelerated, because sweat styles have definitely become street- and everyday-wearable. We therefore envisage enormous potential in this product group.
084
style in progress
NEW PARTNERSHIPS The Silk Sisters everyday collection has new sales partners for southern Germany and Austria: Handelsvertretung Ralf Gohr of Sindelfingen and Eschborn now covers Rhineland-Palatinate, Baden-Württemberg, Saarland, and Hesse. Agentur Dominik is responsible for Bavaria, while Agentur Nussbaumer in Bergheim handles the Austrian market. The collection, manufactured in Portugal, impresses with casual femininity. The label continues to expand its sustainable range with pure silk, a blend of Cupro and Modal by Lenzing, organic cotton, and European linen. www.silk-sisters.de
Perfect for everyday wear, always easy to combine: Silk Sisters.
RIGHT NOW
Munich Fabric Start
GREEN LIGHT
In light of declining infection figures in Germany and across Europe, accompanied by a gradual easing of restrictions, Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions has started planning its trade show dates for the autumn/winter 22/23 season, scheduled for this summer, in an optimistic mood. “We are focusing on organising the upcoming events at the end of August at MOC Munich and the Zenith grounds. We are doing everything we can to provide the industry with the portfolio and services it has come to appreciate and expect. We are incredibly excited to finally regain a degree of normality despite Covid-19, at least at our trade shows in Munich,” says Frank Junker, Creative Director of Munich Fabric Start. The fully booked View Premium Selection scheduled for mid-July had to be cancelled due to the pandemic. Munich Fabric Start, 31st of August to 2nd of September 2021, MOC Munich, www.munichfabricstart.com
Fabric trends on your doorstep: Munich Fabric Start attracts renowned fabric manufacturers to Munich. In addition to the traditional trade show, Munich Fabric Start also serves as a year-round digital inspiration platform for its visitors and exhibitors.
Gallery Fashion & Shoes
LET’S GO!
“The crisis has matured us,” says Ulrike Kähler, Managing Director of Igedo Company. “We are delighted to be able to return with the Gallery now. Düsseldorf remains an important fashion location and we wish to encourage retailers to use the Gallery as a networking platform.” Thus, planning with regular hall occupancy at the Böhler grounds is in full swing. The city itself supports the location with a supporting programme, pop-up fashion shows, and guerrilla campaigns in the context of the Düsseldorf Fashion Days. A digital brand box with virtual trade show booths completes the Gallery. “We are looking forward to the event. Even though all security measures are strictly observed, we sense a sigh of relief and a desire to move forward. This motivates the entire market.” Gallery Fashion & Shoes: 24th to 26th of July 2021, Gallery Showroom Concept: 22nd to 26th of July 2021, www.gallery-shoes.com, www.gallery-duesseldorf.com
Ulrike Kähler channels all her efforts, personality, and soul into Gallery Düsseldorf.
style in progress
085
TIRED OF WASTING TIME AND MONEY ON RETURNS?
www.sizolution.com
THE LONGVIEW
THE LONGVIEW
Daniel Grieder “Creativity Is the Most Important Resource”
Daniel Grieder took over as CEO of Boss on the 1st of June 2021 – the right man in the right place at the right time. In an interview with Stephan Huber, he explains why his unplanned sabbatical was actually a blessing, what he has learned from Formula 1, and why people should always come first. Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Boss
style in progress
089
THE LONGVIEW
L
ife as a “privatier” wasn’t too bad, right? Daniel Grieder: It was indeed an extraordinary year for me on a personal level. The prospect of losing almost a year, which is how it felt to me initially, was very disconcerting at first. I found it difficult to process and was worried I might lose touch. In fact, this time for myself turned out to be a precious gift. Ultimately, it was an unplanned sabbatical in a year of upheaval the intensity of which not many generations experience… That sums it up very well. I had the unique opportunity to address this upheaval very freely and driven by curiosity, unencumbered by the demands of the daily, operational business. What is happening in the world and our industry? How is it affecting me? In retrospect, exploring these questions in depth was a privilege for which I should be very grateful. I was able to develop significantly as a person. Last but not least, I was in a position to prepare for my job at Boss in a way that would not have been possible if the change had happened quickly. I could not have prepared with the same intensity and depth. I have now arrived here in Metzingen at a time that is a starting point for the future – not only for Boss, but, in some respects, for the entire fashion industry. I am looking forward to a future brimming with opportunity. I really could not have wished for a better start. What are the most important lessons you learned during this time? Did these months not make us realise how irreplaceable people are, not least in our industry? That is an immensely valuable insight. This stands in no contradiction to the fact that the pandemic has accelerated digitisation and mechanisation in a way that was hardly considered possible. The order is what makes all the difference. The human being comes first. Is the human touch a success factor? Absolutely, but not in the manner the inevitably inappropriate term “human capital” implies. It is a matter of values that extend far beyond a simple economic calculation. This not only applies to private life, but also to human beings as the most important building block of a sustainable corporate culture. Was the crisis itself a success factor to some extent? That is a highly conflicting question, because one must not overlook the existential, individual fates when answering it. However, a very direct consequence of this caesura was definitely that people engaged more intently with themselves and entrepreneurs more intently with their companies. Everybody learned more about the other, or themselves, in the process. Strengths and weaknesses were uncovered. This has triggered a real innovation boost for many, and thus significantly improved their positioning and opportunities in a post-Corona reality. One thing must be absolutely clear to everyone: things will never return to how they were!
090
style in progress
Nor should things return to how they were. It is not as if the fashion industry was perfectly healthy and unreservedly sustainable before this radical disruption. Is that what appeals to you most about this challenge? That it is ultimately a matter of breaking new ground? I have always sought out and relished challenges. That is in my nature. My new job here, however, entails a number of factors that make it particularly appealing. I am in the right place at the right time. Here, I can have an impact and effect change. I can optimally apply my knowledge, my experience, and my network, but also my enthusiasm for this industry and for fashion in general. On the one hand, Boss is a structurally sound company with a strong global profile. On the other hand, the brand scarcely succeeds in evoking emotions or even love. That translates into walking on thin ice in a market that defines emotions as a decisive success factor. Where will you start making changes? The brand awareness is excellent, on a global level. The brand relevance has, in fact, suffered greatly over the last decade. That is the first, and perhaps most important, lever to consider. Why has brand relevance suffered so much? Boss was a master of evoking emotions for many years: testosterone, sport, speed. Male clichés were exploited aggressively. The approach was controversial at times, but it was successful. The product is always the crucial factor. If the product is relevant, the brand remains relevant. It is a very simple equation really. The recently launched, extremely successful capsule in collaboration with Russel Athletics exemplifies that. It has enabled us to reach target groups, media outlets, and opinion leaders who had no longer been aware of Boss. Product is king! That has always been my conviction for a very good reason. It may apply to Boss to an even greater extent than to other brands. This means the future of Boss hinges on the product. That goes without saying! Brand and product must form a unit to be successful. Just look at what happened to Hugo. The label, once proud leader of the pack, was degraded to a kind of modular system for the “fashionable mid-market segment”. If you recall what this brand triggered and inspired at the time, you realise the enormous potential that is presently not being harnessed. Hugo needs to reclaim that innovative dynamism that it once developed as a visionary label. How can new momentum be created? We, as a company, will clearly define what Boss represents. Of course, we will also define what Hugo represents. This definition will act as the foundation for every further step. It is already clear that Boss and Hugo will return to being two completely independent brands – clearly delineated from each other in look and storytelling. Naturally, they will address very different target groups. Hugo will return to its roots, adapted to the world of tomorrow. The label will have a clear attitude, be fast and proactive. Hugo will
“Boss needs to be seen as the definition of the suit once more.”
THE LONGVIEW
offer jeans, streetwear, and suits for a new, young generation living in the hybrid worlds of tomorrow, where physical and digital realities are increasingly merging. What will Boss represent in this world? Boss has a very clear message: “Claim back!” Initially, this message is directed inwards to every individual in the company. We want to regain a leadership role – in design, in innovation, in fields such as social responsibility and sustainability. We no longer accept being stragglers. Boss must lead the way, claim back its status as pioneer! Can you give us an idea of the future brand architecture? It is quite simple, really. What we are implementing is a refinement and contemporary application of what has always been a sound basic structure. First and foremost, the message is always Boss or Hugo. We are reinforcing this individuality with a revamped brand design, including a fresh, modern logo. The categories below are characterised with the terms Black, Orange, and Green. The demarcation is more precise than it was in the past. There is an option to add new categories such as Blue or Performance. However, only Boss and Hugo are communicated as actual brands. The DNA of the respective brands is deeply embedded in all categories. This structure will be implemented analogously in our womenswear segment. However, Boss Woman will have a significantly more independent, younger, and more feminine look and feel in the future – from branding to store architecture. There is much work to do, but there is also plenty to gain. Does Performance signal a return of Boss to the sportswear segment? We will not develop fields such as golf, tennis, skiing, and riding ourselves, but rather in cooperation with specialised licensing partners. This allows us to deliver world-class levels of design, functionality, and performance. The image of a cliché of a man in a cliché suit is stubbornly persistent in the minds of consumers. Breaking this stereotype by redefining the suit is a central element of the “Claim back!” campaign. Boss must be the future ready-to-wear benchmark. It will function differently, look different, and follow different criteria and values. Yet we have to ensure we reclaim the topic with credibility. Boss needs to be seen as the definition of the suit once more. Although ready-to-wear is destined to continue losing market shares? That certainly applies to ready-to-wear in the traditional or learned sense. This is about more than change in society, in working environments, of the image of men in general. The primary issue is what the consumer demands from clothing. Comfort and performance are the essential aspects in this respect. The customer is not willing to compromise on either, especially not in the premium and luxury segments. As you can see, I have returned to discussing the product. There must be no standstill. What was great yesterday may no longer be good enough tomorrow. That is why innovative thinking is so crucial as a core corporate value. Is creativity the critical resource of our industry? Of that I am utterly convinced. That applies to all industries, not just fashion. And please consider creativity in a truly interdisciplinary sense. The search for solutions and innovations is always a creative process. And this process must not only be facilitated, but actively promoted. I believe that it is one of my most important tasks to ensure that creativity and innovation can develop as freely as possible at Boss. They need to be the driving force behind this company’s future. So, the numbers are not relevant? 092
style in progress
“It is my declared goal to position Boss as a leading international fashion tech company.”
If elements such as brand, product, creativity, distribution, and marketing are aligned, it generally paves the way for a positive financial performance. If, conversely, one always starts with the numbers, the seed of obstruction has already been sown. If you prevent innovation, you prevent the future. You have always been a first mover when it comes to the big disruption topic of digitisation. Many people are eagerly awaiting your digital strategy for Boss. In this case, I am one of these many… It is my declared goal to position Boss as a leading international fashion tech company. By that I do not mean basics such as an attractive online store geared towards today’s hybrid consumer or a functioning digital showroom. I am talking about a genuine 360° approach that starts with an appropriate upgrade of all workplaces and extends to the extensive digitisation of the supply chain, or even the complete digitisation of the design process. We should probably go one step further than that, as 3D printing and virtual fashion are no longer science fiction. None of this is merely an end in itself or contemporary posturing. Rather, this is about central issues of future viability in global competition. Let me give just one example. In order to harness the full potential of digital design, we need a digital fabric library as a foundation. This interplay will not only completely transform sourcing, but ultimately change the mechanisms and structures of our industry. It paves the way for a completely different exchange within the chain. It is, so to speak, a permanent live stream that allows us to access the latest data in real time at any time. Does this mean that data is the most important currency in fashion too now? The intelligent interlinking and analysis of data has become indispensable. One of my first projects is the launch of a Hugo Boss Data Hub. The underlying idea stems from Formula 1. It was never my intention to simply stick a brand logo on a racing car. I wanted to learn how the world’s technology leaders handle data. Toto Wolf was a fantastic tutor in that respect. The moment you set foot into a Formula 1 plant such as Mercedes’ in Brackley, you realise instantly that our industry has not even scratched the surface of professional data management yet. 1,000 engineers are working on making the excellent even better. Nothing is left to chance. Every detail is important, because every detail can make you a thousandth of a second faster. During the race itself, engineers record absolutely everything that happens on the track, input the data in real time, and optimise settings accordingly – not merely for the ongoing race, but also for the next race and the same race next season. It is incredibly fascinating! The foundation for this is a so-called data lake that is constantly fed with information. The magic of machine learning… Yes, exactly! This mechanism of minimising errors and increasing efficiency on the basis of valid data is something I intend to adopt at Boss as well.
THE LONGVIEW
What is the ultimate goal? The goal is increasing efficiency and minimising errors, but not in the form of a cost-cutting programme. It is about getting to a point that allows us to manage the entire supply chain more intelligently. Mastering overstock and overproduction would be a real game changer. Both cause the devaluation that fashion suffers from and are one of the main contributing factors to why our industry has thus far displayed such a catastrophic environmental record. Our goal must be to produce more of the right products and much less of the wrong ones. To achieve this, we need to collect much more data about our customers, our products, and our sales channels. The knowledge lies in the data. Is there a danger of this stifling creativity? Data-driven customer centricity regularly leads to levelling effects. Will algorithms soon determine what we want to wear… or rather should wear? That may be the case in some areas, but an emotional product like fashion should not surrender itself completely. In fact, data is a long way from replacing people and their talent, but it provides a fantastic foundation for developing this talent as efficiently as possible. The human being always remains the last and decisive authority. By becoming more efficient, however, we establish the creative freedom that makes all the difference. It is essential to understand that technology, including digitisation, is first and foremost a tool that enables people to progress – maybe even more so in the field of creativity. Of course, the digitisation of design fundamentally changes the creative process and consequently also the designer’s job description. It is a tremendously exciting change though. Talking about 3D design, can you envisage virtual fashion developing into a standard consumer good in the near future? Do you think people will buy a virtual look for their digital twins in the same way they buy actual fashion for themselves? This is already reality, especially in the gaming community, whose influence on fashion is still woefully underestimated. Virtual fashion will evolve into an important, exciting market. Will all these tech- and data-driven developments not ultimately lead us to the Holy Grail of future consumerism, namely the systematic personalisation of the customer journey at all levels? That is a perfectly logical development in a market that is primarily determined by the consumer. Especially when technology – and now I am talking about data again – really makes such personalisation possible on an individual level. On-demand production and 3D printing are no longer science fiction. The technology already exists! The question is no longer if it will happen, only when and how. This all suggests a great deal of direct-to-consumer action. What place does retail have in this future? It will play an invaluable role! Retail – and I mean physical retail in particular – has been written off and declared
“Technology, including digitisation, is first and foremost a tool that enables people to progress.”
094
style in progress
dead for years. But what has happened? Even online giants such as Amazon and AliBaba are starting to launch actual stores. Physical touchpoints remain indispensable. Human beings need interaction. I believe that the importance of stationary retailers will actually increase within a hybrid retail landscape. Does this dynamic not also harbour a major opportunity to attract more young people to this industry? Being an attractive industry and employer for young people, for talented people, is a key factor. If we want to be the best, we need the best employees. My conviction is that we still retain enormous potential in our company. We must tap this potential by not merely dragging everyone along for the ride, but by allowing everyone to help shape the journey. To this end, digitisation in particular offers a multitude of new possibilities. Let me give another concrete example. Customer service is supposed to take place at the point of sale, where the customer is actually confronted with the brand and the product. Digitisation makes that possible and consequently creates a new job description. We want all Boss employees to be committed and proud brand ambassadors. If they really identify with the brand and its values, then that is the most authentic storytelling source imaginable. Does digitisation have an impact on Metzingen as a location? It has always been seen as somewhat of a disadvantage in the international competition for the best minds. This discussion has changed completely, not least due to the coronavirus pandemic. The how and where we work is undergoing a complete redefinition. In this context, I perceive the location, especially the campus, as a feature rather than a bug. At the end of the day, it is the culture that makes a company attractive to the best talents. Have you set yourself a personal goal? Where do you expect Boss to stand in one year, in three years, in five years? I intend to communicate figures and milestones internally for now. But I’m really happy to be here, and to hopefully make a big impact. We love Fashion! We change Fashion! That is my mission. Thank you for the interview, Daniel!
THE LONGVIEW
He is a first mover in digitisation and tech, a journey that Daniel Grieder believes is far from complete. But: “Data is a long way from replacing people and their talent.”
style in progress
095
WHAT'S THE STORY
WELCOME TO THE BRIGHT FUTURE OF FASHION! An opinion piece by Stephan Huber
A
dmittedly, the motto of this issue of style in progress may not be immediately accessible to everyone. Given the impact of the past few months, which have been enormously challenging for many, it may even seem somewhat provocative. However, I am, in fact, convinced that the post-Corona fashion industry is smarter, healthier, and more viable than it was before this historic turning point, and that much-needed changes and innovations have either been accelerated decisively or finally initiated because of it. The surge in innovation and digitisation was breath-taking, across all sectors and in companies of all sizes. The likelihood that fashion will evolve from a global polluter into a pioneer of a new, economically prosperous ideal of responsible, yet pleasurable consumption has at least become much more realistic. Accordingly, this has also increased the chances of fashion once again being perceived and reflected as what it actually wants to and should be: part of a personality (individual) and part of a contemporary culture (holistic), no longer predominantly a permanently available, disposable article. There is one aspect I would like to stress explicitly at this point, perhaps because it has so much in common with the brand essence of style in progress. During this roller coaster of a year, characterised by lockdowns, irrational political decisions, understandable existential fears, and a whirlwind of emotions, many retailers sensed more intensely than could have been expected that they are not some kind of analogue anachronism, but a decisive factor in a future in which personalisation and emotive customer experience will be more important than ever. Confronted with what is without question an unprecedented challenge, self-confidence was strengthened, and entrepreneurial spirit was set free. If I may illustrate with a current example: “Click & Meet” was essentially established as an emergency measure of sorts. In reality, however, it represents the high art of personalisation. All those who are capable of offering this service at a top level by virtue of their corporate culture, will definitely continue to do so in the future. And it will represent a valuable USP for a hybrid retail landscape that always allows the consumer to choose and switch between different channels. I hope that the ensuing pages, or rather style in progress as a whole, will help us approach our shared future with optimism – and shape it successfully together. 096
style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY
FRANKFURT FASHION WEEK
FRANKFURT IS EVERYWHERE! Covid was still crashing the party this summer, but Frankfurt Fashion Week intends to define the future of trade shows in winter 2022. Anita Tillmann, Managing Director of Premium Group, and Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board at Messe Frankfurt, explain what the future may hold in an interview with Stephan Huber. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Frankfurt Fashion Week
J
anuary instead of July – is this not an excellent opportunity to align oneself even more precisely with a fashion industry that is changing at an accelerated pace? Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board at Messe Frankfurt: Yes, a crisis always harbours opportunity. Much has happened in the industry. Corona has accelerated so many processes and exposed shortcomings of the textile and fashion industries. Simultaneously, a rethink is underway on the consumer side. Awareness of sustainable consumption is one of our
098
style in progress
central themes, for which we as Messe Frankfurt and the FFW strive to be a new catalyst and inspiration source. Anita Tillmann, Managing Director of Premium Group: We need a fresh narrative for trade shows and fashion weeks, that was already obvious before Corona and our relocation to Frankfurt. We launched Fashionweek Studio, a new digital format focused on how to intelligently shape change, at the beginning of July. Not being able to host a physical event was painful in many ways, but it also gave us respite to synchronise the teams and to consider
WHAT'S THE STORY
Detlef Braun and Anita Tillmann intend to transform the trade show from a marketplace of products into a marketplace of ideas.
everything more closely. Now we are ready to go full-throttle in January. Everyone is missing the personal exchange. Yet who will actually be meeting in the future? Up until now, fashion fairs have essentially been the domain of brands and retailers. If trade shows are to be the marketplaces of ideas, then the target group should be significantly expanded and ultimately include the key players of the entire supply chain. Anita Tillmann: Yes, and B2B and B2C will converge even more in the future. Back in my early days in the industry, fashion fairs such as CPD mapped linear
processes. Today, this fashion ecosystem has become a circle in which everyone interacts, of which retail and product are still the heartbeat. But what is the product now? A t-shirt, software, data, or a new retail concept? As this ecosystem changes, so does the interaction between all participants. We intend to be a platform and stage for this interaction. As a trade show, we provide the backdrop for product presentations, deals, communication, networking, and the exchange of ideas. Topics such as recruitment and education are equally important. Those are covered by our Fashiontech formats. We aim to provide answers to the key questions of our industry and offer an experience. Will we manage to achieve all this in full by January? No, but we are working hard on getting there. 365 days a year. It is a work in progress. Detlef Braun: Messe Frankfurt hosts over 68 textile events with more than 25,000 exhibitors worldwide. Our Texpertise Network covers all stages of the value and supply chain. The fashion segment, involving our partner Premium Group, will be the cherry on the cake, so to speak. We are inviting all players to Frankfurt, including manufacturers on an international level, as our network extends to 188 countries. That is a genuine USP. Frankfurt is everywhere! We provide a meeting point at Frankfurt Fashion Week, in the heart of Europe. This is the vision that we intend to implement step by step. The digitisation of the supply chain is not only sparking what is arguably the most radical revolution since the beginning of industrial mass production. Does this mean a trade show needs to be a place of learning? Anita Tillmann: Standstill is no longer an option. One must remain curious, always be prepared to learn something new. Keeping up and shaping the future requires great creativity on all levels. Not only the designer is creative, but also the entrepreneur, the fabric developer, the data scientist, or the influencer. We want them all to meet at Frankfurt Fashion Week, to get to know and inspire each other. This applies in particular to young people, the future fashion generation. We wish to invite them specifically, because it is hugely important to promote new talent. This allows them to experience first-hand what a great industry we have and what diverse opportunities it offers. It pays to think differently and bring together the future players who want to achieve something. Now is the chance to implement something truly extraordinary. style in progress
099
WHAT'S THE STORY
SO MUCH MORE
They open doors, whet appetites, and build foundations. They help, mediate, and make decisions. They solve crises, smooth the waters, and build bridges. The position of agents has never been as undisputed as now. Last year in particular, they significantly outgrew their role as mere brokers. Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Martina Müllner-Seybold. Illustration: Simona Gala Baronti
TOGETHER
ENGAGE EMOTIONALLY
Marc Kofler, owner of Adventure Fashion “I have been saying that the next order round will be the most challenging for three seasons. At the end of the day, I was always surprised by how well our customers responded. It is important to engage retailers emotionally. Our task remains to whet their appetite. I believe we succeeded. Naturally, this holds particularly true for new brands, because the budgets are allocated more carefully after so many closures. It takes convincing. However, our job is made easier by the fact that our partners trust us greatly in this respect.”
100
style in progress
Marion Hoferer, owner of MODEist “We have already been focusing on deeper collaboration with our main brands for a few seasons alongside the classic agency model. Given that we are actively involved in shaping collections, one brand blends perfectly into the other. As a result, the collections look like a comprehensive product range in the showroom, not like individual collections by various labels. This, in turn, complements the way we work perfectly – a blend of enthusiasm and idealism.”
WHAT'S THE STORY
PARTNERSHIP
Matthias Schwarte, owner of Agentur Schwarte “The core idea of our business remains unchanged in crises. I firmly believe partnerships are the most important assets – loyalty to both brands and retailers. The only way is to establish a solid relationship with both sides. When there is a need for more dialogue and solutions, as is currently the case, I think a certain generosity on all sides is equally indispensable.”
TRADE UNION
CONVEYING (TREND) SECURITY
Anna Zoi Rybinsky, co-owner of Meier & Rybinsky “Right now, the most important tasks are clear communication and reassurance. We agents are the link between suppliers and customers. It is our job to help with all issues from returns, exchanges, and re-orders, to all bureaucratic aspects related to the collections. As retailers and buyers are forced to travel less, we agents are now increasingly assuming the role of trend scouts – and we are glad that our partners trust us to do so.”
Enzo Cagol, owner of Agentur Cagol “We are experiencing tremendous solidarity – a new unity among suppliers, retailers, and agencies. We are almost a trade union, interested in everyone’s success and willing to work hard for it. We agents have more opportunities to act as mediators again, compensating and appeasing when things no longer run smoothly. We spend loads of time on the phone and in calls to support both retailers and suppliers, for example in terms of goods exchange and payment deferral.”
style in progress
101
WHAT'S THE STORY
STRONGER NETWORKS
Elvis Giglione, owner of Elvis Fashion Agency “Due to an increasing deluge of digital information, it is all the more important to maintain an excellent network. The agency in the role of trendsetter and middleman, with a profound know-how regarding the product, the manufacturers, and processes, as well as a close connection to the brand‘s roots, is more important than ever. A trust-based cooperation, both with retailers and manufacturers, is indispensable in order to reconcile the interests of both sides as effectively as possible.”
TEAMPLAY
Henrik Soller, co-owner of Komet und Helden “Last year pushed all of us in the industry to our limits. I don’t just mean financially, but also in terms of personnel and personally. That makes the current pragmatic cohesion all the more important, be it with retailers or the industry. You almost have the feeling that everyone knows now is the time to play as a team. Egos can return later.”
102
style in progress
A TREASURE
Bernard Waage, owner of Select Studio “Valuable feedback, figures, data, facts across all sales channels, a daily updated market overview, important insights from all perspectives… we agencies are the key to this treasure trove of information. This is a huge asset we should be mindful of, especially when dealing with international suppliers. We multi-label agencies not only collect this information, but we can also draw conclusions across all categories and segments that positively influence performance in our market.”
SPRING SUMMER
22
WHAT'S THE STORY
104
style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY
WALKING ON SUNSHINE An occasion that coincides with the quasi-reboot of the entire industry. They are all celebrating the 25th anniversary of their respective businesses this year: Marco Götz of Drykorn, Michi Klemera of Luis Trenker, and Stephan Huber of style in progress. Is there a better reason to come together and talk about the big issues ahead and what the shared future holds? Join us on a stroll over Salzburg’s city mountains. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Bernhard Musil
W
e have reached an exciting juncture. 25 years lie behind us, yet, due to current circumstances, we find ourselves on the verge of a new beginning. What issues will preoccupy us in the next 25 years? Marco Götz, founder of Drykorn: Extreme market change! I have, in fact, started mentally segmenting time into the 25 years leading up to Corona and the 25 years following Corona. I expect the future to usher in a shake-up of the market involving a complete change in buying behaviour, a change in the values we have to deal with, and a much clearer focus on the topics of sustainability, longevity, topicality, and joie de vivre. Sexiness is making a comeback, in particular in the womenswear segment. And with it returns the desire for self-expression. Fashion is once again becoming a more conscious experience on a personal, physical level. The two-dimensional digital experience is no longer paramount, but a certain passion to perceive something sensually again. This is something we observe among younger people in particular. Michi Klemera, founder of Luis Trenker: For us, our “Life is wonderful” principle is reinforced by the yearning for the idyll of the mountains. In South Tyrol, we live in a paradise that enables us to tell our story, the story of a mountaineer. We tell of clothing that
has its origins in the 1930s and 1940s, of sporty comfort coupled with special materials and qualities. Luis Trenker’s attitude to life embraces the enjoyment and appreciation of special pleasures such as good clothing, being steadfast, expressing personality, and showing character. All these topics are more relevant than ever right now. Marco: The urgency to take radical steps has grown through the last year. We have all had to rethink what we do. Where is the journey heading? How is consumer behaviour changing, not least among younger customers? What values are emerging? We expect fundamental changes in purchasing behaviour. It culminates in the question what role fashion needs to fulfil in the future. What impact does fashion have on urban mobility? How will workwear evolve when our everyday life in urban environments changes completely? Michi, the situation has accelerated many aspects for you as well. Especially the online business, which you have expanded significantly. Michi: We saw it as a huge opportunity. There are many beneficiaries of the current situation, and we can all learn a great deal from it. We now generate 25 percent of our turnover online and 65 percent via our own retail operations comprising 14 stores. This is a topic we started exploring in 2010 when we launched the Kitzbühel store and realised how we could strengthen and visualise our brand in its authentic environment. Showcasing this naively beautiful and healthy world of Luis Trenker represented a great opportunity for us. This is a new beginning for me personally. I am getting older and need to start thinking about reorganising my business. My daughter Johanna is 26 years old and already very involved and motivated. We aspire to be even more modern. Mobility is an equally important topic for us, because people who used to fly 10,000 kilometres to go on holiday before Corona are now seeking refuge in the mountains, which is where we style in progress
105
WHAT'S THE STORY
wish to reach them. Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and northern Italy are our territories, and we strive to be THE brand in the tourist resorts. Overall, the year 2020 was marked by a rather peculiar debate on consumption, or the tendency to believe that fun is not compatible with the world of the future, because fun destroys the environment. So, how can consuming be fun without having to feel bad about yourself? This is a crucial question for our industry, because we primarily produce products that people want, not need. What shape will consumption take in the future? Marco: The typical Drykorn customer has always discovered the brand by encountering the product and experiencing its haptics. Customers we wish to address in the future must be addressed with completely different attributes, because they often no longer have a direct point of reference to the product. How elaborate does a digital set-up have to be if this touchpoint no longer exists? How do we attract attention? How do we inspire desire and what is the current desire? We believe the answer lies in the product, flanked by a genuinely effective digital presence. That is the level we have to aspire to. Simultaneously, I still firmly believe in the personal shopping experience. Individual, guided, and curated advice will experience an absolute renaissance. Michi: We interpret this as a huge challenge, because we have always been – and still are – highly focused on our brand and brand awareness. It is likely to increase the dilemma that our range is very narrow with too few basics. Yet I refuse to compromise in favour of commerciality. We are still experiencing growth, after all. Our goal is to double our
current turnover by 2025. We positioned ourselves very well in the crisis year 2020, have worked hard, and are sticking to our internal goal of growing our online business to 50 percent as well. Both answers suggest to me that it is always the consumer who ultimately decides in our market. What does that imply for the relationship between the individual market participants? Marco: As a manufacturer, you are increasingly forced to act as a retailer yourself. The demands are exorbitant. You need to control your own channels, because the share of brick-and-mortar retail is dwindling. I believe brands that function exclusively via specialised retailers will cease to exist at some point. Michi: We decided to avoid large online platforms a long time ago. We are not a Zalando partner, which, in turn, results in huge amounts of hands-on effort. Yes, it is very time-consuming, but ultimately much more rewarding. The margin is higher, the commercial rate fairly low. Of course, this means we are targeting very specific customers who know their sizes and the product. Yet our returns rate is a mere 24 percent. Our online presence goes far beyond fashion – our role resembles that of a service provider in this context. My wish is that customers will someday automatically associate South Tyrol with Luis Trenker. In the city, too, the attitude to life is changing dramatically. “Drykorn for beautiful people” is your tongue-in-cheek slogan. Marco, what exactly is so beautiful about the future? Marco: Sustainability, light-heartedness, effortlessness, fun. The more pertinent question is what consumers perceive as fun.
Acquainted for many years: Marco Götz of Drykorn (left) and Michi Klemera of Luis Trenker.
Future issues in historical scenery: the three industry experts discussed the challenges of the time ahead against the backdrop of Hohensalzburg Fortress.
celebrate
10 YEARS
Wir freuen uns auf eure telefonische Terminvereinbarung mit unserem Vertriebsteam! WWW.DADDYSDAUGHTERS.COM
WHAT'S THE STORY
Stephan Huber (right) invited his guests to discuss the future: “Let’s look ahead to the next 25 years.”
Which message do they understand? I think the definition of fun has changed completely in recent generations. Do future generations even want to experience fun in a real, physical form? Has fun not generally been somewhat neglected in this industry over the last 10 years? Michi: You are referring to the great times at Bread & Butter. We all had fun in that particular segment of fashion and that platform encouraged it. It was a glorious time, but that time has passed now. Marco: That was an extraordinarily special era, a very fun-oriented time that was shaped by this kind of event. A big thank you to Karl Heinz Müller at this point, who captured the zeitgeist and showed plenty of courage in doing so. Should fashion not reclaim this hedonism, this desire for fun and self-expression? Marco: Absolutely. Making yourself look beautiful, liking yourself, and finding yourself attractive are great virtues. Considering yourself beautiful has nothing to do with narcissism. It is still fashion’s primary objective. If we, under the pressure of sustainability, no longer attach importance to how we look, then we forego all passion and emotion. That is what fashion ultimately thrives on: taking pleasure in a piece of 108
style in progress
clothing, taking a stand, feeling sexy, and showing oneself as an expression of personal attractiveness. Why should I have to dress so compliantly that I no longer stand out anywhere? Michi: There is a huge difference between wearing a consumer product that calls itself fashion and wearing fashion in the actual sense of the term. What the large retailers are currently doing no longer represents value to me. The fun factor is nothing but overproduction. Luis Trenker consciously manufactures in a manner that prevents fashion becoming a disposable item. That means: no plastic, no polyester, no material admixtures. I appreciate that I have 30 to 35 production partners, all of whom I know personally. I never have to drive more than 1,500 kilometres to visit them. That is a very different definition of fun factor. Here we stand at the verge of this new beginning. Are there things that will no longer be possible in the future? Or to put it differently: Which habits should our industry abandon? Marco: The crux of the matter is the 30 percent overproduction rate. The situation looks very different when you take that stock out of the market. Such massive levels of overproduction cannot be offset by sustainability – that renders all efforts futile.
Pitti Uomo Florenz 30.06.-02.07.21 Showroom DRAHTHAUS Düsseldorf 05.07.-15.09.21 Supreme Women Men München 07.08.-10.08.21
Showroom DRAHTHAUS | Kaiserswerther Straße 137 | D 40474 Düsseldorf fon.: +49 - 211 45 97 60 | www.heubel.info | office@heubel.info
WHAT'S THE STORY
Michi: I feel it is a question of attitude. We manufacture what we sell and are delighted when we sell out a bestseller. That is what creates and augments desirability. Price is the all-important issue, and this is what mass production entails. We need to have the entrepreneurial courage to manufacture only as much as we honestly think we can sell, and to accept higher costs in return. Marco: Epic NOS warehouses block all attempts at innovation. Nevertheless, it is also a fact that being sold out also equals being underrepresented on the sales floor. It requires enormous courage to accept that. Limiting oneself contradicts the nature of entrepreneurship. I hardly dare to look 25 years ahead. Let’s start with five years. Michi, where does Luis Trenker stand in five years – apart from having doubled its turnover? Michi: I would like to broaden the brand, because I sense that our perseverance is being increasingly rewarded, especially in times like these. Customers who were not aware of us years ago now show an incredible amount of respect for our product philosophy and the values of the brand. We would like to freshen up a little, enhance our digital footprint. Our current product range is, after all, geared towards a more mature customer base. I see huge future potential in appealing to younger customers. I believe in self-confidence and perseverance, in the fact that certain things that are genuinely excellent and express respect will still be very well received in five years’ time, even by a younger target group. In short: I have a healthy and optimistic outlook!
Marco: To be honest, I have always tried to avoid such outlooks. If I must, however, I would say that the next five years will lead to an even sharper digital focus. We have already largely adapted our processes, including the entire supply chain. Nevertheless, Drykorn will still thrive on its strong product commitment in five years’ time. This means that our focus remains on developing fashion that meets consumers’ needs in life and makes them feel good about themselves. For me, the main challenge is to manage the balancing act between the desire for emotion, fun, lifestyle, and attractiveness and the issues of sustainability, conscious consumption, and functionality. Of this I am certain: fashion will succeed in mastering it.
He believes the local spirit of South Tyrol represents the greatest opportunity for his Luis Trenker collection, which has been committed to sustainability for 25 years.
His strength is asking the right questions at the right time. Marco Götz is already preparing Drykorn for innovation and strong product focus in the years to come.
110
style in progress
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
WELCOME BEYOND
WHAT'S THE STORY
That pink streak of light on the horizon is not just a new dawn. A whole new age is dawning in fashion. What aspects of the fashion industry 1.0 should we retain for the future? The fundamental question is rather for which tasks and issues does the future offer better solutions than the present. Never has there been greater justification to be full of optimism for what’s to come. After all, the fashion industry offers plenty of potential for optimisation that intelligent apps, software, and tools can tap into. Things can only get better!
style in progress
111
WHAT'S THE STORY
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
BROWNS/LONDON
BENCHMARK
The new flagship of London-based retailer Browns, part of Farfetch Group, extends over four floors. The Brook Street branch is not only a statement of intent by Browns, but also the flagship of Farfetch Group’s state-of-the-art retail technology. Interviews and text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Browns, Farfetch
112
style in progress
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
WHAT'S THE STORY
Holli Rogers
“BROWNS BROOK STREET CEMENTS OUR BELIEF IN PHYSICAL RETAIL”
“Browns has always been about the unexpected and the new way of merchandising will allow us to amplify the buying team’s vision to the next level.” – Ida Petersson, Buying Director Browns
Developing the concept for the new Browns store engaged retail experts of international credit. From day one, it was more than the usual “let’s open a new store” strategy. So, what did developing and opening this new store mean to Browns? Holli Rogers, Browns Chair and Farfetch Chief Brand Officer: Absolutely, we knew this would be our new forever home. For us, this space is so much more than just a place for physical retail, it is truly a unique environment that caters to our customers' many needs, perhaps even needs they did not know they had, but in the Browns way of course. It appeals to all of their senses and what we have introduced is a truly connected journey, as we know that clients want to experience us in both the digital and physical realm. The store is all about personal connection and personalised experience – it brings together fashion, fine jewellery, food, and culture through our restaurant, our immersive room, and so much more. It truly is a destination and provides a place for people to explore, discover, and linger. We have been developing the ethos of Browns Brook Street since I joined Browns over five years ago and we were already looking to execute the subtle layers of technology, connected by Farfetch, within our spaces - you can see this through what we have done at Browns East - prototyping, piloting, and really bringing the space to life through experience. With the new store, we are bringing together everything we have been working on for years – it is a culmination of all our stories, and it just so happens to be a landing at an opportune time for customers and an opportune time for brands who now realise the importance of technology after so many months of being fully digital. We have implemented our “store for one” concept with private VIC suites on our Club Floor and throughout there is personalised attention with the human component alongside this layering in of technology. Fundamentally, the customer is at the heart and every element plays into providing the best possible service with experiences that go beyond just product – we see real value in investing in this. There is so much to experience in this store – you will want to spend
Holli Rogers, Browns Chair and Farfetch Chief Brand Officer, explains Browns Brook Street: “Fundamentally, the customer is at the heart and every element plays into providing the best possible service with experiences that go beyond just product.”
time going around to each floor, looking at the interiors, and really feeling the space because it is so enchanting. We are also so excited that our customers are enjoying our new restaurant, Native at Browns – they pursue a zero-waste concept, which I think is really innovative and has not been seen in central London in this way before. In addition, the design of the space is incredible and speaks to our conscious endeavours in prioritising British artisans, alongside the beautiful courtyard with outdoor dining where we expect so many to relax and enjoy. Does this new Browns re-write the customer journey? Browns Brook Street cements our belief in physical retail – and the importance of the flagship which contains the essence of our brand and a space for us to engage with our community. My background was predominantly online before joining Browns and I think both spaces have their unique place within the ecosystem of the industry. With online, you have everything at your fingertips – in-store we can educate, inspire, and curate, providing a space that showcases our style in progress
113
WHAT'S THE STORY
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
“An unexpected yet inviting courtyard with outdoor dining where we expect so many to relax and enjoy.” – Holli Rogers, Chair of Browns
unique viewpoint. 2020 has taught us the importance of having a truly omni-channel approach, and perhaps even cemented the path we were taking. In store, we will have elements such as instore mode, an extension of the Browns Fashion commerce app that allows you to scan products, check in with a sales advisor, and even view what from your wish list is in stock. Additionally, we will also have the “connected mirrors”, which enable storytelling and rich product discovery at the very moment when purchase decisions are made, and also enhance the customer journey through a connection to their sales associate. The adoption of technology has definitely accelerated and, by blending these two attributes, we can ensure we are offering a seamless journey across all touchpoints. The merging of these two worlds only furthers our commitment to the future of luxury retail as we usher in a fundamental shift in the way people will shop. During the pandemic, we have learnt that open doors are not key to a success story in fashion retail. There are so many other ways to keep in touch with your fellow clientele, but this keeping in touch needs to have a personal approach. How can a company like Browns scale the hyper-personalisation provided in store to a digital or non-physical level? We have learned that the power of connection both IRL and virtually is paramount to our customer. I personally think that people are looking for that human or personalised connection that 114
style in progress
is difficult to replicate online. We all love fashion and get into it for the product, and I think people have been excited to be able to touch, feel, and try on the product again – most importantly they are looking for that element of discovery. We can, of course, buy anything we want online at any time we want. At Browns Brook Street, we are merchandising by vibe, feeling and providing trends via our unique take on the season. We know that our customers were missing that personal interaction with their sales associates IRL and that they were really keen to engage with them on what is newly in and what we are backing. Also, people’s expectations are high, so we really had to consider this in terms of ensuring we had that connected, tech-enabled experience coupled with that really thoughtful and human side which is so crucial in the current landscape where personal touch and personalisation are pivotal. At such an inflection point in retail, it has been incredible to see the reality of this store come to life in a revolutionary space which blends the past and the future seamlessly. Can you describe the role Browns has in the corporate structure of its owner Farfetch? It feels as if Browns is a laboratory for all the innovation and progress Farfetch has in mind. The group invests 200 million US Dollars a year in technology and employs a team of 1,000 engineers. Is Browns the proof of concept that disruptive change can provide a new and bright future to brick-and-mortar retail?
WHAT'S THE STORY
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
I believe Browns is absolutely a beacon of innovation and with Browns Brook Street we have proven there is a bright future for physical retail. It has been over five years since we were acquired by Farfetch, and since I joined Browns. They truly are a powerhouse. What José Neves has built at Farfetch was always centred on supporting and championing physical boutiques and they really invested in Browns as an innovator within this space. The adoption of technology has definitely accelerated. Through continued development in this arena and, in my opinion, by blending these two attributes, we are on a journey to create the ultimate personal shopping experience and I am excited for the next chapter of Browns' history. At Browns, we look at it as a completely connected customer experience – not online vs. offline, but a seamless journey between both. This is how customers shop and engage, so we should allow that with no friction. These connections to our back-end systems, our website, the apps, our sales associates, our stores, and our customers act as the “glue” that brings the unique Browns experience to life – and this is enabled by Farfetch.
“The space is truly sensorial: sight, sound, smell, taste, and touch – offering a unique experience through each visit.” – Holli Rogers, Chair of Browns
“The customer is truly at the core of what we do, and we hope that our new home will be one that you never want to leave.” – Holli Rogers, Chair of Browns
Sandrine Deveaux
“TECH IS A SERVICE”
Sandrine Deveaux, Executive Vice President Future Retail at Farfetch, the parent company of Browns Brook Street, points out that “stores need to have a purpose”.
116
style in progress
What role will brick-and-mortar play in the context of Future Retail? Sandrine Deveaux, Executive Vice President Future Retail at Farfetch: The pandemic has accelerated an ongoing transformation process that is changing retail forever, but it has also shown that retail is truly important to the end customer. Retail is not dead. That may be the most reassuring proof the pandemic has
unearthed. Of course, retail needs to change. It needs to shift its focus from functional aspects to excellent in-store and digital services. Implementing state-of-the-art in-store technologies was among the key aims of Browns Brook Street. Could you please pick one technology and explain what makes it so crucial for a prospering retail future? It is extremely difficult to pick just one, because they are all interconnected. We did not think about tech, we considered our customers’ journey. We thought about the service level we can offer. We have now created an ecosystem that
WHAT'S THE STORY
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
“Our Farfetch Platform Solutions (FPS) and Store of the Future teams have worked with Browns to bring Farfetch’s state-of-the-art omnichannel retail technologies to the store to serve the changing needs of the luxury customer, both online and in this incredible physical space.” – José Neves, founder, Co-Chairman & CEO of Farfetch
is connecting in real time. The app-based system provides both customers and the sales assistants with real-time propositions that match their entire purchase history with what appeals to them while browsing in-store. This process yields amazing data and has delivered great results in terms of upselling products – during and after the customers’ visits alike. We can only showcase approximately five to ten percent of the Browns inventory, which makes tech essential to make the full range visible. The best tool to achieve this could be, for example, connected mirrors. However, allow me to reiterate how important it is to ensure that tech is not perceived as such. It should be experienced as a service. Browns Brook Street’s in-store experience goes beyond fashion. The concept even includes a restaurant and bar. Does the future retail experience have to transcend the purchase-driven aspects that are still at the centre of every ordinary retail concept?
“The Brook Street store is a testament to the vision the team had of creating a physical space which could engage customers in new and enchanting ways.” – José Neves, founder, Co-Chairman & CEO of Farfetch
“Custom designed and handmade wallpaper depicting faded floral Victorian patterns contrast with the essential, clean cut lines of the furnishing and lights.” – Britt Moran and Emiliano Salci, founders of Dimorestudio
118
style in progress
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
WHAT'S THE STORY
“We wished to convey a contemporary, unfinished, and slightly minimalistic feel.” – Britt Moran and Emiliano Salci, founders of Dimorestudio
“We have delved into creating a space where the essential and clean line structures are juxtaposed to the existing fixtures.” – Britt Moran and Emiliano Salci, founders of Dimorestudio
I firmly believe that the role of a multi-channel store is to curate and ensure that customers are pampered to the max during their stay. The purpose is not selling for the sake of it. The purpose is to inspire and establish long-standing relationships. If stores manage to create these points of inspiration, how will their role in the customer journey be measured? Everything I read about Browns Brook Street says that it will not be a “sales per square metre” calculation. Could you share the underlying idea that the Future Retail
department of Farfetch has come up with? How will the role of the physical store be redefined within our industry? We at Farfetch have already gone beyond that old business model. We work side by side with our brands, we create content together, we work on activating the end customer both online and in-store, and we organise online and offline events together. We strive to be true partners for our brands. Our ultimate goal is to create the best possible customer sentiment or engagement. Farfetch is aware of its responsibility as driver of this change.
“Our ethos is not only reflected in the menu, but also in the thoughtful, sustainable design which mirrors our ideals whilst harnessing the talents of innovative producers across the UK.” – Ivan Tisdall-Downes, Head Chef of Native at Browns
style in progress
119
WHAT'S THE STORY
ONE SIZE FITS ONE
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
Digitisation is the magic formula that will get the fashion industry back on track after its corona slump. However, the future vision only becomes perfect when digitisation is married with personalisation. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Illustrations: Raevsky Lab, str33tcat (stock.adobe)
W
hat an impertinence the first ready-to-wear clothing manufacturers had! Instead of relying on individual tailoring, as had been customary until that point, their business revolved around mass-producing products in standard sizes. The pamphlets of bespoke tailors protesting against this revolution of the late 18th century read remarkably familiar – for they sound so similar to the progress-deniers of today! The bogeyman is the same then as now: once the new technology took over, everything would be nothing but a predictable mess, devoid of any spark of creativity and individuality… PROGRESS IS HUMAN
Painting a gloomy picture of the future did, however, not stop progress – even back then. The fact that fashion production grew from a craft to an industry based on the division of labour has transformed a marginal branch of the economy into a global industry that nourishes micro-enterprises just as much as mega-corporations. They have all perfected ready-to-wear clothing in all its varieties; custom 120
style in progress
tailoring has become the rare exception. Now the next dawn is breaking. WHERE IS THE (DIGITAL) JOURNEY HEADING?
A look back at the history of fashion can illuminate the path in this twilight. Whereas the detractors of ready-to-wear used to argue that human jobs would be lost, today the exact opposite is the case: one in three jobs worldwide is directly or indirectly linked to the textile industry. Globally speaking, fashion is one of the biggest growth drivers, even the corona pandemic could not stop the upward trend. According to Statista, turnover in the apparel segment alone is expected to reach around 455,287 million Euros globally in 2021 and is expected to grow by 7.3 percent every year. SOLVE THE PROBLEM FIRST
This impressive upward trend, however, comes with untold downsides. Only 0.4 to 1 percent of the global average cost of a garment is spent on paying the people who manufacture it. The environment is paying a devastating price for clothes that
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
are becoming ever cheaper. The fact that it is now possible to mass-produce at such low cost is definitely more of a curse than a blessing. It continually fuels global overproduction. Even though sustainability and slow fashion have long been preached among the elite of the fashion industry, the wine we drink on a daily basis remains blood red. END CONFORMITY
The clothing industry has perfected the magic formula of selling the same thing in the same sizes to as many people as possible in the same stores in similarly run countries. Or so one would think, but a look behind the curtain exposes the lie: the approach of achieving the highest possible degree of conformity is seriously flawed. A bestseller here is a shelf warmer there. Yet the available data has long suggested other conclusions. Today, intelligent forecasting programmes are already capable of drastically reducing the inaccuracies in demand and sales projections. Relying on evidence-based trend or colour forecasts likewise makes a product more concise. Moreover, fully digitised production, in which historical, current, and future figures are combined for steering purposes, is not a utopia but a reality. THE PRIMAL FEAR OF THE MACHINE
Admittedly, this numerical potency is frightening. We humans fear that the machines could take over. How often has this happened in our history now? We are suspicious of the computer-controlled ratio suddenly becoming the measure of all things, that humans no longer have any influence on the decision-making process. Especially as many of these digital tools and productivity boosters are based on artificial intelligence. This spurs the imagination of our caveman brains into a breath-taking gallop – and suddenly we find ourselves discussing hypotheses worthy
WHAT'S THE STORY
of a science fiction blockbuster. Help, the machines are taking over?!? THE PROMISE OF SALVATION: INDIVIDUALITY
The exact opposite is the case: digital methods, whether in design or manufacturing, are reigniting designers’ creativity in a way that fashion has not witnessed in a very long time. Not only does the colourful side of fashion benefit, but the number crunchers are also daring to dream new dreams. The objective is the scalability of precise production. To all future sceptics, let this be a reminder. The ideal everyone is emulating is profoundly human in nature: individuality. Achieving it requires reflecting all the magic that makes fashion a peoples business. Instead of picking raisins out of a cake, the future shall hold raisins only. Once the bland mass around them falls away, the celestial kingdom is near. THERE IS NO WAY BACK
Does this sound too much like back to the roots? Does it sound like the perfect world of yesteryear, where everyone returns to the tailor and only buys what they really need? A look at fashion history makes it clear how backward this romantic idyll actually is. From about 1790 onwards, the division of labour in the manufacture of clothing in Europe took off. Should we turn the wheel of time back to the reaches of the 18th century? That is an illusion. For it goes without saying that the fully digitalised fashion raisin production of the 21st century must correspond to modern standards, technologies, and realities. There is, however, one crucial difference: the money that is saved by modern mass individuality must not exclusively flow into already bulging wallets. Politics and society must ensure that everyone shares in this progress: consumers, producers, and our environment. style in progress
121
WHAT'S THE STORY
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
Decoda
COLOUR FORECAST What are the key colours of the latest season? Software developed by Decoda objectively evaluates images from international designer shows by colour, providing a basis for designers to create their own collections and for retailers to align their buying strategy accordingly. The special feature here is that the quantity and weighting of colours can be determined in real time according to product groups. This allows an even more differentiated view of the trend shows. The digital product was launched in March via the German Fashion Institute. The complete software package costs 475 Euros per season on a subscription basis. www.deutschesmodeinstitut.de
THE DIGITAL SAMPLE:
A GAMECHANGER?
“It is my responsibility to leverage my skills and knowledge to create the change we need”, says Kristina Nedeljkovic. She worked for fast fashion suppliers before starting 3dkn, her own 3D design business, in Denmark.
Kristina Nedeljkovic, 3D Fashion Specialist at 3dkn “We may think that digitisation in fashion is evolving quickly, but it is not. Scalability and automation remain the biggest challenges. In order to optimise results in terms of saving costs, one needs to implement 3D on a scalable level. However, it will take years to get there unless someone invents new tools that enable you to do it faster. We need a clear definition of the term sustainability before we start arguing about new technologies. For me, sustainability means being more accurate and gaining full control over 2D patterns, fabric consumption, and garment development to reduce waste. Software programmes such as Clo3d, Borzwear, and Marvelous Designer are just a few of many solutions that can support that argument.”
Decoda digitally evaluates colours from fashion show images. Even non-colours such as white and black can be determined.
Rebound Stuff
ACQUISITION APP WITH ULTERIOR MOTIVES Being part of the solution is preferable to contributing to the problem. After 10 years of professional experience in the fast fashion industry, Doris Schoger founded Rebound Stuff, an information and acquisition platform for the second-hand market, in 2019. Within the circular model, Rebound Stuff turns necessity into virtue: every user can send and sell superfluous items to Rebound Stuff – free of shipping costs from within Germany. www.reboundstuff.de
122
style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
NFT
Two pioneers join forces. In February, RTFKT made history by selling 3.1 million US Dollars’ worth of sneaker NFTs in just seven minutes. Together with The Fabricant, who were the first fashion company to create NFTs and sold a dress for 9,500 US Dollars back in March 2019, they launched a capsule collection called RenaiXance on The Dematerialised in April.
MARKETPLACE FOR DIGITAL FASHION The prospect of us spending more time on the internet as avatars, going to exhibitions, attending concerts, and shopping opens the doors to a gigantic market for digital fashion. So-called NFTs (non-fungible tokens) are now set to turn fun into business: they act as a receipt of sorts, because they prove the purchase of a digital asset – be it art or clothing – as a blockchain-based certificate. They can be traded at will, which is what creates the market. NFTs have been booming since this spring. Platforms such as bnv.me, SuperRare.co, and The Dematerialised are frequented by the who’s who of the digital fashion scene. The most prominent current example is the RenaiXance capsule collection by none other than RTFKT and The Fabricant, which can be purchased on The Dematerialised. “This NFT collection offers the community an opportunity to own a piece of digital fashion history. It was a dream come true for us to implement the exclusivity of this theme with the two leading brands in this field,” say Marjorie Hernandez and Karinna Nobbs of The Dematerialised. www.thedematerialised.com
The Dematerialised allows customers to use fiat or cryptocurrencies to buy NFTs for digital fashion and art backed by the LuksoBlockchain.
The advantage is that NFTs fulfil the same function as a purchase certificate. This is what makes exclusivity through limitation, price increases, and qualified trading in digital assets possible.
BNV.ME BNV.ME, the first online store offering digital fashion NFTs, was launched by Brand New Vision of Hong Kong in March 2021. The list of partners listing their 3D designs already includes upscale streetwear and premium brands such as Mishka NYC, Off Safety, Passport adv, and Chill Create. Since 2020, Richard Hobbs of BNV.ME has observed an explosion in NFT transactions and sees enormous potential for digital fashion. www.bnv.me
124
style in progress
SuperRare.co/Gentle Monster
NFT GOES AVANTGARDE The collective behind Korean brand Gentle Monster demonstrates its affinity to the international art scene with futuristic store designs and campaigns. Teaming up with AES+F, the fashion brand became the first of its kind to offer an image video, a campaign for the new collection, for sale as NFTs on the website SuperRare.co for 24 hours. www.superrare.co
On SuperRare.co, one can accurately track who bid and paid how much for the NFTs of the video The Circle of Life by Gentle Monster and AES+F. It also lists who currently owns the tokens and who is eager to buy them. At times, the video was valued at approximately 20,000 US Dollars.
WHAT'S THE STORY
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
Digital fashion design begins with translating the technical parameters of a fabric into 3D simulations and culminates in a virtual showroom.
ASSYST
“STILL DAY ONE” The famous quote by Jeff Bezos perfectly describes how digitisation in fashion is still at the very beginning of its possibilities, says Hans Peter Hiemer, Managing Director of Assyst. With his team of professionals, he delivers a fully digitalised end-to-end solution for the product creation process, from converting materials to digital end products. “We create digital assets,” he says, adding that he sees them as a powerful lever for all areas of the fashion industry. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Assyst
The technological transition of a piece of fabric into a three-dimensional shape is the starting point in the product development process that Assyst guides its customers through from the first click to the last. What specific industry problem does this solve? We not only digitise the entire product development process, but, above all, create parameters that all downstream processes can utilise. For example, we create digital materials by recording both their optical and physical parameters, as well as their 126
style in progress
technical properties. This establishes a foundation that allows all downstream processes to use the digital assets for realistic simulations. Otherwise, you wind up with digital stand-alone solutions that lead to major disruptions in the entire chain. We employ industry professionals who are proficient in crucial tasks such as pattern imaging, grading, and fitting. Let’s consider the next major step. Which technological and digital developments are currently the most significant? In terms of technology, international collaboration between individual partners will be the main challenge in the future. This includes, of course, the recording of materials, colours, and other components in order to make them digitally available to the designers. Simultaneously, there is a growing awareness in the industry that digital design cannot be effective without a technically sound basis, primarily mastering the construction of cuts. What are the gamechangers on the horizon? I would say Next Gen Avatars. These digital characters are making their way into fashion
Product on demand – a credo that Hans Peter Hiemer, Managing Director of Assyst based in Aschheim near Munich, is promoting with holistic digitisation processes.
from other industries. The gaming scene in particular is shaping a new understanding and expectation of avatars among end consumers. This will result in more individualised products. The second big topic is sustainability and the quest for sensible end-to-end processes that minimise the risks of business models. In 2021 alone, around 500 million garments will not be sold in Germany. This is no longer acceptable. There are possible solutions that involve the networking of micro factories and intelligent production processes. The goal is to connect information and consumers much more closely, and to manufacture and work accordingly.
& SOLD OUT KNIT
w w w. m o d e i s t . c o m |
modeistagency | info@b-kleidung.com | +49 151 54 73 28 67
WHAT'S THE STORY
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
Parcello
OFFSETTING EMISSIONS THROUGH PARCEL TRACKING
Berlin-based app start-up Parcello promises to dispatch parcels and protect the climate. Customers receive an accurate arrival forecast to the hour as soon as they place their order. Annoyed by illegible notification cards or the complete lack of notes from the parcel carrier on the front door or in the letterbox, Sarah Dorweiler and Gerald Reimertz founded Parcello ten years ago. The cash-flow-financed start-up, which generated revenue from the outset, pursues the goal of making CO2-neutral or CO2-positive deliveries possible. For every 1,000 parcels tracked, the company plants two trees on the Yucatan Peninsula in the Gulf of Mexico in collaboration with Plant for the Planet. “Our objective is to make the Parcello technology available to all online shops in order to offset the emissions of all parcels delivered and transported worldwide,” explains Dorweiler. That is why Parcello is currently aggressively expanding its B2B capacities. www.parcello.org
Sizolution
“THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING”
Parcello improves the customer experience and plants trees to offset CO2 emissions.
Leezen Heroes
FUTURE-PROOF Leezen Heroes not only transports passengers within Münster, but also delivers orders to customers by environmentally friendly cargo bikes. Same-day delivery is possible, if desired. The service is already being used by retailers such as Modehaus Schnitzler or Zumnorde. www. leezenheroes.de
128
style in progress
Your sizing app provides data for precise online shopping. At the same time, it is the foundation for the next big step: avatars. Vahe Taamazyan, founder of Sizolution: This is definitely happening, yes. Recent advances in technology, mainly computer vision algorithms and 3D graphics boosts coming from the gaming industry, open up many new technological opportunities. Add to that the digitisation of the fashion industry and wider adoption of 3D design and you’re looking at an explosive mixture. Where do you see the biggest advantage for fashion retailers in this field? Most fashion retailers now operate like online catalogues. We believe that an increase of the online market share will result in e-commerce transforming from catalogues into more personalised and immersive experiences. We call this development hyper-personalisation and believe it is the future of fashion e-commerce. Size recommendation tools and virtual fitting rooms are great examples of this transformation already happening. Given these circumstances, what is the next big step for Sizolution? Sizolution’s strategy is to be an enabler of this transformation, to help online fashion stores become more personalised. One of our next steps entails adding a virtual fitting room option to our size recommendation widget, which would allow customers viewing a product on a photo of themselves or on a virtual model with their body shape. www.sizolution.com
Vahe Taamazyan believes hyper-personalisation is the next logical step in e-commerce. He has already laid the foundation for this development with the sizing app Sizolution.
D e d i c ate d to ou r be a u ti f u l S i sters.
www.silk- siste rs.c om
WHAT'S THE STORY
W e lc o m e B e yo n d
SEO 4 Now
PROBLEM SOLVER You, a retailer, are now also responsible for marketing the new SEO 4 Now software. What is the tool capable of? Thomas Wartner, Head of Marketing at SEO 4 Now: It offers a clear overview of social media posts on various portals and all the feedback they triggered. The ratings, clicks, and views are excellently prepared and can also be analysed according to time and quality. What convinced you in particular? Publishing posts has become so easy and self-explanatory. Then there is the search engine optimisation feature. Anyone searching for shops and products in my greater region via Google, Google Search, Facebook, or in the business directory will find me, a local provider, significantly higher up in the rankings. I believe the software is a real problem solver! www.SEO4Now.de
Keepist
Do Good and Get Rewarded The concept is similar to Miles & More. Customers of sustainable online stores connected to the Keepist reward system, such as Bluhava, Entire Stories, or New Normal, order as usual, then click on the reference “Reward for sustainable shopping, click here to collect keeps” during the order process, and receive “keeps” credited as points, as long as they don’t return the ordered products. Many stores are connected via affiliates who reward their customers for sustainable shopping without returns. The “keeps” can be redeemed like vouchers or donated to charitable causes. www.keepist.com
PlatformE
PRODUCT ON DEMAND
MAD Mode Avanguardia Digitale An event in Milan in September aims to reflect the ecosystem of tech, fashion brands, retailers, and marketplaces. Curated by Velvet Media, the main purpose of the one-day event is to gather decision-makers from the above-mentioned sectors, allowing them to network and gain important input for the future strategy of their respective brands. After the event, a “Store of the Future”, featuring a comprehensive live and online programme, will be available for four days. eventi@velvetmedia.it, www.velvetmedia.it
Goncarlo Cruz intends to revolutionise fashion production. PlatformE keeps its promise: from sample to finished product in six weeks, and only manufactured on-demand.
130
style in progress
This is the antithesis of mass production. The aim of PlatformE is to eliminate uneconomical overproduction in fashion by means of smart, digitally coordinated processes between ordering and production. The team headed by Goncarlo Cruz has succeeded in inspiring brands such as Gucci, Puma, and The North Face with on-demand ordering processes. The one-stop shop creates high-quality 3D simulations for its customers, enables customising through closely coordinated communication throughout all product development phases, and handles the coordination of the entire cycle with globally networked manufacturers who produce just-in-time – all the way to final delivery. This allows for small batch production with a turnaround time of less than six weeks. www.platforme.com
AUTUMN.WINTER 22/23
AUTUMN.WINTER 22/23
AUTUMN.WINTER 22/23
31 AUGUST ST
JOIN US IN MUNICH
w w w. m u n i c h f a b r i c s t a r t . c o m
02 SEPTEMBER ND
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
O W THE
132
style in progress
W O WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
FACTOR
No singular trend can do justice to the many roles in which women excel today. After all, anyone who leads a life brimming with options also craves the freedom to fall in love with fashion spontaneously. A purchase happens when one feels butterflies in the stomach, emotions explode, and common sense becomes secondary. Online or stationary? The question of where is peripheral at best. This holds especially true for shops that have managed to become the new influencers of their customers. Their reach has long since outgrown the sales floor. Illustration: Anna Ismagilova (stock.adobe)
style in progress
133
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
THE BOUTIQUE’S FINEST MOMENT The connection between customer and retailer in individual stores has never been closer. These stores are, after all, an excellent compass in the “anything goes” fashion universe. Instead of following a specific trend, women prefer to wear what reflects their personality. And the retailers? Their orders are more accurate than ever. Retailers have learned their lessons from many weeks of closures and “Click & Meet”. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. llustration: jamesbin/stockadobe
I
t is Tina Doblinger’s first day off in ten weeks. She and her team have been working flat out for the last few months – be it on site in her two stores By Tinas and Optimismo, or on Instagram and WhatsApp. “A much more intensive customer relationship has developed, even online,” says the retail expert from Gröbenzell. “I have learned so much, for example that photos are not enough. I need to include a message in the videos to ensure that the people out there can get to know me better. The great feedback from all over the world has shown that I can reach them everywhere with a personal approach, even in Dubai!”
THE POWER OF PERSONALITY
This is the hour of the owner-managed boutique, which can now impress with proximity and intimacy. Many retailers have literally stepped into the spotlight to address their customers even more proactively – with success. “We sense a new appreciation,” says Karin Wirth, who runs Carina Fashion in the South Tyrolean town of Kaltern with Brigitte and Marialuise Andergassen. “We offer our customers comfort fashion – not too elegant, not too sporty. They feel accepted by us, no matter whether they are size 34 or 48. People who buy from us don’t usually buy online.” Angela Krull displays enormous flexibility for her store Krull & Co Fashion. “We have gone out of our way in every way possible to provide customers with the service they desire.” This has sharpened her sense for her customers’ fashion tastes even more: casual-cool pieces by American Vintage, Lala Berlin, and Nili Lotan. All items 134
style in progress
T h e Wow Fac to r
WHAT'S THE STORY
need to be comfortable, not least because no woman is willing to forego the recently acquired benefits of wearing comfort. The much-cited fashion dictate seems to be well and truly passé. Personality and individuality are in high demand. This is presumably the reason why there is no more room for that one must-have piece, just as there is no singular trend that everyone feels obliged to follow. Instead, we are witnessing a variety of trends that are far removed from arbitrariness. This makes it somewhat easier to create individual looks. Do women now have a better idea of what suits them? “They are certainly better informed,” answers Angela Krull. “However, they still visit us because they value our advice too.” “The customer only buys if the fashion suits her and emphasises her personality,” says Alexandra Schütz of Top Chic. “She has no real interest in the blazer hype, but rather buys cosy jumpers and fun blouses, for example by Closed, Otto d’Ame, and 360 Cashmere.” What does she, as a retailer, need from her brands? Flexibility and, above all, teamwork. “How we interact with each other is more decisive than ever. I no longer accept limits anymore either. They are, quite simply put, anachronistic.” WOW MOMENT
Bea Schneiter of Evoilá in Berikon sold Marc Cain for 20 years. “My customer no longer buys a brand, she buys Evoilá,” the Swiss fashion entrepreneur explains. “She sees the same wherever she goes, especially in larger stores. My chance lies in taking a risk. If I can surprise her with highlights she falls in love with, she will buy them.” Evoilá combines a Schumacher blouse with Antonelli trousers and showcases a traditionally inspired piece by niche label Von und Zu from Allgäu. “Sustainability is also becoming more important to customers,” Bea Schneiter argues convincingly. “Everything that tells a story and evokes emotion is a winner.” During the crisis, Maria Glaser has further honed the unique signature of her business I love Maria‘s. Her daily feel-good posts have attracted new fans beyond Austria‘s borders. style in progress
135
WHAT'S THE STORY
1
T h e Wow Fac to r
2
3
4
5
1 Angela Krull, Krull & Co Fashion 2 From left: Karin Wirth, Brigitte Andergassen, Marialuise Andergassen, Carina Fashion 3 Fränzi and Nina Wohlert, Lilou 4 Alexandra Schütz, Top Chic 5 Bea Schneiter, Evoilá 6 Maria Glaser, I love Maria’s 7 Tina Doblinger, By Tinas
“I now only order what convinces me 100 percent. This is my new motto in life,” the Salzburg native says. “That ensures that my customers cannot resist the fashion on display either.” She stocks dresses by Shirtaporter or Maliparmi, unusually cut pieces by Eva Mann, and casual styles by Alessia Santi. The latter is an Italian label that is rarely found anywhere else. The feminine, often colourful looks are both a commitment and an appeal. “I want to encourage my female customers to embrace the fact that they are being looked at,” explains Maria Glaser. “Many are willing to tread this path with me. My investment is now starting to pay dividends.” The customers of Lilou in Schaffenhausen can always expect an explosion of colour and a holiday atmosphere featuring fun fashion by brands such as Moschino, Katja Serafini, and Flowers, as well as kimonos by Ivi. “Our orders are currently incredibly on point, mainly because we have got to know our customers so well,” says Fränzi Wohlert, who manages the boutique with her daughter Nina Wohlert. “When an agent tells me that others have ordered something in large volumes, it encourages me even more to be unique in my own selection.” THE END OF CHANCE
6
136
style in progress
7
Does the success of an owner-managed boutique rely less and less on chance? In the past, a consumer who visited a store would buy when she happened to find the right item in a wide range of products by chance. Today, however, much less is left to chance. Retailers are increasingly inviting their customers into the showroom virtually. Their orders are no longer spread out to cater for a broad product range that covers every angle. Instead, they focus on special highlights, especially as customers are getting used to committing to individual shopping appointments. Something else has become apparent quite incidentally: customer traffic is not a key success factor in the premium retail segment. More customers in the store do not guarantee higher sales. Private shopping appointments are now firmly established at Krull & Co Fashion. “It pays off to have time to attend to everyone individually,” says Angela Krull. Tina Doblinger also appreciates the fact that she can prepare more thoroughly for arranged appointments. “I am thinking about reserving one day a week exclusively for private shopping. I consider the idea enormously exciting! However, the average customer is still reluctant to commit to a fixed appointment.” Chance remains an important factor, argues Alexandra Schütz. “If there are other people in the store, they can start conversations with each other. This, in turn, lightens the mood.” Ultimately, fashion shopping thrives on spontaneity, moments of happiness, and surprises. And all that cannot be planned in advance…
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
OOHH! FINE FASHION, CHUR
“I AM MY STORE’S USP” What makes you unique as a retailer? Sereina Vischer, owner of Oohh! Fine Fashion: I like people and am interested in their stories. My customers can sense that. They enjoy visiting me, mainly because they feel appreciated. I am always in the store, always there for them. The personal touch has become enormously important. Many trends coexist now. Apparently, women are no longer willing to bow to a fashion dictate. Are they more aware of what optimises their look? No, many are insecure and feel a little stuck. They thus place all the more trust in my ability to surprise them with something new they would never have considered. Instead of following every trend, they crave something individual that underlines their personality. It seems rigid ideas have no place in an era of diversity and body positivity. Has the classic boutique regained relevance? Absolutely. Customers no longer accept the arbitrary. They also pay more attention to where and how something is produced. If an item really excites them, the price plays a subordinate role. How important are brands? Customers do not ask for them. They trust that I have something for them that is not widely available: knitwear by Henry Christ of Hamburg, colourful silk dresses by Dea Kudibal, or luxurious loungewear by Ina Kess. Whatever blows my own mind, I can sell. I have to acknowledge that I am my store’s USP. I am the one who makes a difference. Sereina Vischer loves surprising her customers.
JULE AVANTGARDE, ESSEN-WERDEN
“I KNOW WHAT SELLS WELL”
Constance Settelmayer keeps her customers in mind when ordering. Photo:
Is it fair to say that your customers have a new trust in you as a retailer? Constance Settelmayer, owner of Jule Avantgarde: Yes, the appreciation has definitely increased. My customers feel perfectly at ease with me. They want to be advised and looked after. The city is becoming steadily less interesting, whereas the outskirts, featuring a well-rounded retail environment, are experiencing a renaissance. This is one of the reasons why I opened another store for lounge and nightwear right next door. The feedback is great, really validating. Where does this new appreciation come from? My customers appreciate that I know exactly what they need. When I order, I have them in mind and buy something special for them that is not too outrageous. No piece costs more than 500 Euros, yet quality remains important. I make sure to convey the intrinsic value of fashion by wrapping every piece I sell in tissue paper. I also start clearance sales, which never last more than a fortnight, later. Are you more accurate than before? Yes. I can tell by the fact that I have very little stock left at the end of the season. I know what sells well, not least because I know my customers so well. The effort is intense, but it pays off.
Christian Deutscher
style in progress
137
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
“We always aim to raise our customers’ awareness of the importance of products that are manufactured in a holistic and sustainable manner. Right now, 30 percent of our collection is produced organically. This applies to both materials and washes.” – Ender Sahin, Sales Manager DACH
The motto of American Vintage is to focus on in-depth content: not merely in terms of the two product groups denim and outerwear, where the collection is currently evolving most rapidly. To meet the strong demand of its customers, the French specialist for luxury casual wear is also significantly expanding its colour palette in the traditionally high-turnover segment of volume articles. “In terms of sales, we are experiencing the most movement in denimwear at the moment,” says Sales Manager DACH Ender Sahin, describing the path that American Vintage embarked on a few seasons ago with three to four options and has expanded to around 20 styles to date. Highlights include iconic Eighties washes in Salt & Pepper style, as well as Big Carrot cuts.
AMERICAN VINTAGE
Lateral entry: American Vintage displays the fashion potential of denim with a broad range featuring the fabric. Denim in all its glory: without bleaching, but with reduced Salt & Pepper washes.
CONTENT FIRST!
arrot Big Cts Salt mee epper &P
• American Vintage introduces its broadest outerwear range to date: the line-up includes long coats and oversized jackets with dropped shoulder cuts in up to four colour options. • No down as a matter of principle: from the unlined double-breasted coat to the padded, floor-length oversize coat in two variations, the collection features everything that can forego down.
138
style in progress
T h e Wow Fac to r
WHAT'S THE STORY
COOL AND SOPHISTICATED: ECOALF 1.0 INTRODUCES TRADING UP TO THE PREMIUM SEGMENT.
Ecoalf by Blanca Padilla: contemporary essentials in natural shades.
PREMIUM FASHION LINE • Time to conquer the premium segment: Ecoalf 1.0 is the range that Ecoalf intends to intermix with designer brands in retail environments. • Influencer capsules, such as the one featuring top model Blanca Padilla, generate regular updates.
The premiere of the Ecoalf 1.0 collection by the eponymous Spanish eco-label combines timeless, minimalist design with innovations and high-quality recycled, low-emission technical materials. As always, the primary focus is on circular economy in order to completely eliminate the use of non-renewable raw materials. Alongside the 3,000 fishermen from Spain who collect waste from the sea as part of the Upcycling the Ocean project, countless colleagues from France, Greece, and Italy have now also got involved. Following the success of the eight-piece capsule collection in collaboration with top international model Blanca Padilla, there is to be a more extensive sequel this summer.
ECOALF
“By 2025, 10,000 European fishermen will be helping us to collect many hundreds more tonnes of waste from the sea that we can use to manufacture fabrics for our collections.” - Javier Goyeneche, founder and President of Ecoalf
style in progress
139
WHAT'S THE STORY
mer Sum ere in m h cas nitwear 3D k ns a coref i o remapetence . com haTauri Alp
T h e Wow Fac to r
Easy wear, easy care: sportiness blends with elegance to redefine luxury. The Euro Jersey is particularly crease-resistant and quick-drying, the seams are bonded.
Designed for the city and holidays alike: summer-friendly, casual knitwear.
Style meets function: the windbreaker with all-over logo print is water-repellent. The t-shirt made of a heavy interlock material meets equally high standards, right down to the embroidered AlphaTauri logo.
ONE STEP BEYOND New haptics, even more diverse designs: AlphaTauri’s premium fashion collection is evolving into a head-to-toe look for men and women, taking the next logical step for the summer 2022 season. What remains? The sharp focus on the key competencies of Red Bull’s fashion brand: 3D knit and outerwear. What will the future bring? The gradual development of functionality without sacrificing fashionable contemporary style. Recent innovations include the patented Taurobran textile technology, a three-layer membrane with a cottony feel for AlphaTauri’s signature parkas, as well as for long summer coats for women and jackets for men. The material also features in the recently launched Innovation Sweat capsule, which is being upgraded with boxy layering styles, jackets, and skirts. This means seemingly classic jerseys are not only comfortable to wear, but also waterproof yet breathable. A cashmere blend is the fourth yarn quality to complement Alpha Tauri’s seamless 3D knitwear, promising summery, light wearing comfort.
ALPHATAURI
140
style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
THINKING IN STORIES 25 shades of summer: Fil Noir offers what is probably the largest linen colour range on the market.
The shirt specialist is consistently pursuing its path of increasingly conceiving its collection in capsules, each with its own story, making it even more comprehensible for retail customers. The best example is the GOTS-certified Respect capsule, which is being expanded for both women and men with fashionable silhouettes in a new variety. For Fil Noir Donna, for example, classic shirts are complemented with slipon blouses and oversized shirt jackets. A new addition is a men’s vintage capsule that draws inspiration from the best styles from the archive. The look is defined by special details, such as stand-up collars, vintage metal buttons, or Japanese square buttons made of mother-of-pearl. It is presented to retailers as a convincing POS package, with an individual rack and shirts wrapped in silk paper and parcel string. Fil Noir already enjoyed great success last summer with a linen shirt edition, which is now also being expanded. There are four new styles for men and six even more feminine styles for women in 25 colours: from soft pastels to bold blues, oranges, and purples, reminiscent of the 1980s. The chambray linen creates a vividly iridescent material appearance, which is created by differently hued warp and weft threads. The soft finish ensures the casualness of pre-washed shirts, which can also be ordered and manufactured in small volumes.
FIL NOIR
All pieces of the Respect capsule are manufactured organically and fairly, in the spirit of slow fashion. Now the successful capsule is being upgraded with additional fashionable silhouettes.
Already a Fil Noir success story: the sustainable Respect capsule collection.
inest The Fasual in C style in progress
141
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
“I studied in the US in the 1990s and travelled a lot along the East Coast. I constantly have these images in my head, which always inspire me anew for Bowery NYC.” – Claudio Parolini, founder of Bowery NYC
The product reveals Italian craftsmanship combined with the coolness of the American way of life. It is this unique combination with which Bowery NYC has made a name for itself over the past ten years, primarily with t-shirts and sweats for men, supplemented by a few pieces for women. Now a carefully designed women‘s collection is being launched, with which Bowery NYC founder Claudio Parolini is responding to positive retail feedback. A strength of the t-shirt specialist is its material and its haptics. Just like in the men’s collection, Makó Premium Cotton is used to ensure long-lasting quality. All pieces are manufactured and piece-dyed in Verona to highest standards, resulting in a delicate and soft feel. Another strength are the elaborate vintage motifs typical of Bowery NYC, which are reminiscent of the eponymous Manhattan neighbourhood and define the spirit of the collection. Simultaneously, the proportion of shirts in clean looks is growing. The silhouettes of the collection are equally sophisticated. In addition to classic basics, there are shirts with casual rolled hems that are reminiscent of the street style of the 1980s, as well as cropped and boxy styles that complement high-waist jeans, for example, and are particularly appealing to young women.
BOWERY NYC
Now Bowery NYC is launching a t-shirt collection for women. Typical graphic motifs reveal the spiritual home of the brand.
• Bowery NYC is one of the few T-shirt specialists that also focus on styles for women, with classic yet fashionable variants. • Clean looks are equally suited to being worn all year round, rather than seasonally. 142
style in progress
THE NEW WOMAN TEE
The ed -dy c pie e re availsa shirt able in . ades 17 sh
WHAT'S THE STORY
VERY PERSONAL A sophisticated product: Ayms, manufactured in Turkey, offers high-end active and lifestyle apparel for men and women.
Follow your passion! Martina Schmidl is launching her first own collection in autumn 2021 – a very personal project. “Ayms embodies sophisticated lifestyle and activewear that is both durable and timeless,” explains Schmidl. “We aspire to be more than a fashion brand, to represent an attitude and ethics. We know what we are doing while living our dream.” The 35-piece collection is carefully conceived down to the last detail, featuring sports bras, shorts, and leggings, which are complemented by t-shirts, sweatshirts, hoodies, and even water bottles. The materials include natural fabrics such as Supima and organic cotton, but also specially developed high-performance materials such as a recyclable polyester blend and double-face polyamide cotton. The tags made of sugar cane are tree-free, while the care labels are made of natural rubber. All pieces are delivered in recyclable canvas bags that can be subsequently used for transporting a yoga mat or laptop, thus transforming into everyday companions. No season, no sale. In terms of sales, Schmidl has set her sights on up to 50 top accounts globally. In addition, Ayms is available online at www.join-ayms.com, at retail prices ranging from 100 to 450 Euros. There are no seasons, and the limited collection sets its own standards by pursuing a strict “no sales” policy. “There is so much one can do differently,” argues Schmidl. “I am really enjoying the chance to contribute to conscious consumption in our own individual way.”
AYMS
What is your aim in life? This question inspired Martina Schmidl in naming her collection, which reflects her personality and sets new standards.
Urban, yet always rooted in nature: Cape Town is a source of inspiration for Ayms.
Carefully designed down to the last detail: • Each piece comes in its own bag. • The labels are positioned to avoid chafing. • The label reflects light. style in progress
143
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
SCHERA
“WE STRIVE TO OFFER THE MOST FASHIONABLE TROUSERS IN THE PREMIUM MARKET” Two brands share a vision. With Seductive and Raffaello Rossi, the family business Schera boasts two trouser collections that convince both as a product and as a holistic package. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Schera
A family business with values: (from left) Brigitte, Tobias, Ralf, and David Schellenberger.
“We always think in terms of the customer,” says company founder and Head of Product Management Brigitte Schellenberger. “What life situation is the wearer in? Which trousers suit her? That is always our primary approach to thinking ahead.” As trained textile engineers, Brigitte and her husband Ralf Schellenberger founded the Schera enterprise 25 years ago to create women’s trousers under the Raffaello Rossi brand. “We have always refined the product with attention to detail and great passion,” says Brigitte Schellenberger. The fit is an essential area of expertise, combined with a high degree of fashion and an eye for detail. “The material is equally important. When all aspects harmonise, the result is a real feel-good product. Feedback from sales and retail has always remained a source of motivation for us.” Consequently, the premium label has also become a favourite among specialist retailers with 1,600 points of sale in 22 countries. In 2007, Seductive, another trouser collection for the luxury segment, was added to the fold: sophisticated, minimalist in design, and with a 3.0 mark-up. The list of customers includes Unger, Lodenfrey, and Apropos. Product development and sales are independently organised for the exclusive collection, which accounts for one third of the company‘s turnover. NEXT GENERATION
Both collections share the aim of creating the very best product, driven by a family business in which both sons are now involved. David Schellenberger, alongside his father, is responsible for finance, administration, and human resources, while Tobias Schellenberger, as Head of Business Development, is responsible for product, sales, and marketing. “Made in Europe” is a requirement that Schera would never abandon in favour of increased margins. The company is also known for fairness in all collaborations and having an open ear for retailers. “Now we intend to further optimise our processes, qualitatively expand our sales activities, and promote the issue of sustainability,” says Tobias Schellenberger. As early as fabric selection, attention is paid to resource-saving production. In 144
style in progress
Minimalist and luxurious: the exclusive Seductive collection. High fashion factor, great wearing comfort: trousers by Raffaello Rossi.
addition, Schera is committed to the Grow Back reforestation project. “We’ve been supporting this cause for a while, but plan to communicate it more clearly via social media, on the website, and through retailers,” explains Tobias Schellenberger. “We not only want to raise the profile of our fashion, but also tell the story behind it,” adds Brigitte Schellenberger. “These are values that will make the difference in the future.”
T h e Wow Fac to r
WHAT'S THE STORY
“WE LIKE TO BE FASHIONFORWARD” What is the brand’s special strength? Preben Laust, Creative Director of Second Female: We want to create a wardrobe that is as relevant as it is affordable, with all the comfort and confidence a woman needs to make her personal appearance. We are fascinated and inspired by all women, of all ages and sizes. Second Female is every woman, no matter what age or size. Our collections reflect this philosophy. We translate the classic into a contemporary context, with easy-to-wear essentials, and always focus on the must-have styles of the season. We also like to be a bit bold and very trendy! Moreover, we want Second Female to be affordable without compromising on quality. Does the turn of the times have an impact on the look and the spring/ summer 2022 season? Many expect that there will be a strong desire to show off and style oneself again. We believe in that too. Times when people can get together again call for great garden parties, so definitely once more for expressive outfits and plenty of dresses. There will be strong, feminine silhouettes from the 1970s and 1980s at Second Female, with voluminous sleeves and constructed shoulder details. They will be worn with straight-leg trousers and quilted waistcoats. The play on contrasts continues with monochrome looks printed with mini flowers, as a counterpoint to classic men’s stripes and soft, pastel knits.
SECOND FEMALE
style in progress
145
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
• Increased recycling ratio: Colors of California commits to sustainability goals • Relaxed yet fashionable styles and democratic prices are the brand’s hallmarks
“A SHOE MUST ALWAYS BE FUN”
The 2022 summer collection by Colors of California is colourful, what else? Like every season, it is inspired by the “California Way of Life”: all models are casual and colourful, designed to convey ease and freedom. “A Colors of California shoe must always be fun, otherwise it does not even make it into the sample collection,” says Simone Ponziani, CEO of the Italian shoe label’s parent company Artcrafts International. The brand was founded more than 20 years ago and has been successful ever since by pursuing precisely this philosophy: cool summer shoes for women who approach life in a carefree and relaxed way. Fashionably up-to-date, plus an excellent price-performance ratio – this winning combination ensures excellent sales, not only in the home market of Italy. Germany is Colors of California’s most important export market. The collection’s DNA remains the same, but details vary each season. The upcoming summer collection features six main themes: glitter sandals, jelly flip-flops, braided sneakers, padded single-straps, and sandals completely covered in terry cloth. Another of the many highlights are braided sneakers featuring shafts and soles made from recycled materials. “Investing in the development of green products is important to us, which is why we devised this particular sneaker model: the shaft is fashioned from a ribbed strap made from recycled plastic bottles,” explains Ponziani.
SUMMER ON YOUR FEET – COLORS OF CALIFORNIA REPRESENTS JOIE DE VIVRE AND SHOES THAT ARE FUN TO WEAR.
146
style in progress
COLORS OF CALIFORNIA
rs of Colo rnia is o Calif ired by p s in tcoast Wes tyle. lifes
T h e Wow Fac to r
WHAT'S THE STORY
JOSH V
“WE ARE A SOCIAL BRAND” JOSH V seamlessly intertwines design, marketing, and data. “It’s a very personal brand,” says founder Josh Veldhuizen. Now the Dutch label intends to gain a foothold in the German-speaking markets via a highly selective sales strategy. Interview: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: JOSH V
I would describe JOSH V as a 21st century brand: driven by a purpose, natively embedded in content and social media. You, as CEO and role model, are the perfect storyteller to fuel constant communication. To what extent was this strategy, to what extent gut feeling? Josh Veldhuizen, founder of JOSH V: It was primarily strategy. Launching the brand ten years ago was already part of a bigger plan, as I wrote a reality TV show about me launching this brand for the biggest broadcasting company in the Netherlands. So, my collection had to hit the stores the day after the first episode aired. As you can imagine, I had plenty of preparatory work to do, not least the task of convincing buyers that the brand would take off as soon as the TV show started. It did just that immediately, and I still feel very blessed that all the puzzle pieces fell into place so perfectly. The show attracted loads of media attention and, what is most important, created instant demand for the brand and its products. Still, we are creating more demand than we can cater for, and this strategy is at the core of everything we do in marketing. Ultimately, this is our commitment to sustainability. Most people in this industry are not yet aware of how much they destroy with overproduction. JOSH V has ambitious growth plans and will expand its brand further. Tell us about your plans in the German- speaking markets? We strive to grow steadily and slowly, as we did in the Nether lands and other countries. I believe in the long run, and I believe in focus. We are a social brand to the core – not only marketed on social media, but also in the sense of real and deep relationships with our retail partners. This is why we are very selective in choosing whom to partner with. We want to provide our partners the best sell-through, which is only possible when we consider it a shared mission. JOSH V is a true lifestyle brand, debuting this fall with its premium line and plans to expand the range subsequently… The brand has matured a lot in ten years. We are proud to present a premium line moulded within the accessible luxury core of JOSH V. We care passionately about quality, fabrics, and details. For me, as a designer, a dream came true when I was no longer limited to the price points of the accessible luxury segment. Of course, JOSH V will honour its DNA and continue to offer premium quality at reasonable prices. Furthermore,
Entrepreneur Josh Veldhuizen has led her Dutch brand JOSH V to international attention and growth.
we will include activewear, home wear, and home accessories, all very personal projects that started during the pandemic, when I sensed this demand for working out, cuddling, cosiness at home, or decorating your place. What makes JOSH V different? What fields are you championing? We are completely data-driven. We know what will sell very well and why. We excel at predictive planning, and all our marketing and social media efforts are part of a big matrix that connects and analyses data. This is why we can offer the highest service level to retailers. We are not based on sentiments; we are based on facts. style in progress
147
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
ON LEVEL X The summer 2022 season marks the brand’s tenth anniversary. However, this is no excuse for Meike Schilcher to rest on her laurels. The Salzburg resident is brimming with ideas. “My collection is a celebration of joie de vivre and lightness,” explains Schilcher. Her favourite travel destination, South Africa, is emblematic of this approach and is reflected in colours and styles. The range includes earthy, ethnic-inspired colours, radiant shades of pink and turquoise, and soft pastel hues, even vibrant neon pink and yellow. Cashmere knitwear is the core competence of Daddy’s Daughters. In combination with blouses, dresses, and skirts, it translates into a total look in the spirit of uncomplicated casualwear. Natural materials such as cotton and linen are indispensable, either in a striped design, seersucker, or breezy voile. Unlined jackets, boxy or in blazer form, complement the casual look. Because Schilcher loves to surprise her customers, she has created a t-shirt capsule made of Portuguese carbon brushed cotton to mark the anniversary. The line features high-quality prints of tonguein-cheek statements such as “Let’s ar: e w o t hug again”, “Survivor”, and “Let’s Easy louses, ts the b and skir he get the party started”. All pieces are , t s t e n packaged in environmentally friendly dressompleme n c glassine sleeves. Schilcher: “I that collectio of believe they are must-haves for the ade ls in m e r a ateria season alongside the capsule made m l a natur Portugal. of terry cloth, my favourite material since childhood, including tank tops, shirts, polo dresses, and jumpers.”
DADDY’S DAUGHTERS
To mark the tenth anniversary: a t-shirt capsule made of carbon brushed cotton, featuring tongue-in-cheek slogans.
148
style in progress
Daddy’s Daughters founder Meike Schilcher applies a conceptual approach and thinks in terms of partnership. The fact that she listens carefully to the needs of her customers is evident in both the product and special retail concepts.
The heart of Daddy’s Daughters is high-quality cashmere. By the way, all pieces are delivered plastic-free, in a cotton voile bag that contains a small cashmere comb.
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
FUNKY STAFF
TIMES FOUR
“Acting is like wishing, but tougher…” is a phrase coined by Funky Staff founder Uwe Bernecker during the pandemic. It certainly applies to his company, or rather his four companies. The entrepreneur and his wife have resolutely seized every opportunity that the past year has presented. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Funky Staff
Frankfurt that now specialises in fashion and also has perfect command of the fine distribution required by this particular industry. The first external brands have already signed up alongside Bernecker’s own brand. State-of-the-art solutions such as RFID are a matter of course. THE OPINION LEADERS
“Do you actually find the time to sleep?” This opening question makes Uwe Bernecker laugh heartily: “I must confess that it has taken quite a hold on me.” After all, the “it” is no longer just Funky Staff’s strong-selling, fast-moving womenswear manufactured in Italy, but now also entails three other companies. “We seized the opportunities that came our way,” says the entrepreneur who, together with his wife Kerstin, has overseen the surprise success of recent years. “Funky Staff is extremely attuned to needs and requirements,” Bernecker argues. A trait that also distinguishes the Frankfurt entrepreneur in all other business activities. During the first lockdown, for example, he took over his financially struggling logistics partner and transformed it into LogFash, a logistics service provider based in the north of
Inspired by the activism of the “Wir machen AUF__merksam” campaign, Bernecker founded the FUNKY_NOW advertising agency. The epithet “The Opinion Leaders” is no coincidence. The agency has, after all, managed the most successful Germany-wide campaign concerning store closures within the framework of “Aktion Freundschaftsdienst”. The efforts have since been awarded the German Brand Award in Gold. Be it “Swipe & Find” technology, social media training, or high-reach toilet paper flagship stores, Bernecker has not only made headlines with his network, but also implemented pioneering solutions. The fourth business of the Berneckers is entirely dedicated to the woman who laid the foundation for all other developments with her proficiency in design and production. “Kerstin’s creative potential is far from exhausted. In addition to Funky Staff, we plan to develop our own projects while also offering our creative and production expertise to other brands as a white label provider,” Bernecker explains the principle. “I don’t want to give away too much at this point. Everyone who knows us knows that we’ll keep it exciting.”
Logistics, production, and creative expertise paired with marketing skills and, in Funky Staff, the perfect example of how fashion manufactured in Italy can really capture the current zeitgeist: Uwe Bernecker has established four companies that dovetail perfectly.
style in progress
149
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
LIFESTYLE LOOP “Impact 01: Remade” is the title of Minimum’s unisex capsule collection. It is entirely circular and thus ground-breaking in the fashion industry, because Minimum is among the first companies to have succeeded in developing a product-to-fibre-to-product cycle. Whereas previously only cutting scraps and textile production waste could be recycled, the Danish brand now utilises unsold stock, which is shredded into fibres and, by adding organic cotton, processed into yarn and fabrics, and subsequently into new styles. This allows Minimum to return unavoidable overproduction to the cycle. Minimalist, unique, and sustainable are the qualities that best describe the collection featuring oversized hoodies, jumpers, shirts, and jog pants. Given that the surplus stock used is limited in volume and to certain colours, the result is inevitably a limited collection based on the individual colours of the source material.
MINIMUM
• Innovation with no-waste policy: Minimum has launched its first circular collection. • A huge step towards the commercialisation of circularity.
REVOLUTIONARY RECYCLING TECHNOLOGY: after shredding the unsold goods, the fibres are blended with organic cotton before being spun into yarn, made into fabrics, and finally transformed into new styles.
150
style in progress
“As our leftover stock is limited to a certain amount and specific colours, the new styles will be limited as well. This makes the expression of our re-made styles unique, as we will never be able to obtain the exact same colour again. We see this as one of the many positive assets of circularity.” Kristina Nissen, Design & Buying Manager at Minimum
T h e Wow Fac to r
WHAT'S THE STORY
“WE SHOULD CLEAN UP OUR OWN MESS”
Kristina Nissen, Design & Buying Manager at Minimum.
Not merely another cotton programme, but a limited-edition circular collection made of heavy sweat fabrics.
What does Minimum do to avoid overproduction? Kristina Nissen, Design & Buying Manager at Minimum: We try to plan the actual demand as precisely as possible, but it is simply impossible to hit a bull’s eye. Therefore, reusing unsold goods commercially is a huge opportunity. Steen Engelbrecht, CEO of Minimum: We focus on developing inter-seasonal products and improving our Essentials collection to ensure greater durability. Furthermore, we have created a model for our Essentials that prevents the accumulation of unwanted stock in the stores and delivers in line with actual demand instead. This eases the burden on the stores’ cash flow and simultaneously reduces the amount of unsold products on the sales floor. Sustainable innovations are initially an investment rather than a profitable business. What drives you? Steen Engelbrecht: Common sense. One can compensate for negative impact by planting a tree, fair enough. We, however, believe it is more sensible to clean up your own mess. As an
Steen Engelbrecht, CEO at Minimum.
industry, and as consumers, we share the duty to act responsibly. Naturally, we cannot ask consumers to buy six months ahead to avoid overproduction. What we can do is find ways to revive unsold, obsolete stock. This allows us to be a little more environmentally responsible. Which challenges are you facing? Steen Engelbrecht: The biggest challenge is our fundamental structure of bringing the product from production to the consumer. We cannot produce on demand as the consumer, of course, desires full freedom of choice, which inevitably results in surplus of some pieces. We need closer cooperation between the various link in the value chain such as consumers, retailers, wholesalers, and manufacturers. There already is a willingness to develop a better circular impact.
Gamechanger: Minimum teamed up with innovators Textile Pioneers and Valérius 360 to develop a product-to-fibre-toproduct cycle.
style in progress
151
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
EASYBIO
SUSTAINABILITY FOR EVERYONE EasyBio, a new label from northern Italy, specialises in sustainable basics. No prints, no logos, just understated collections that are comfortable to wear, demonstrate green and social commitment, and are all available at a democratic price. The aim is to finally make sustainability possible for everyone. Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photo: EasyBio
EasyBio was launched early 2020 with the crucial mission of introducing sustainable products to the market at a democratic price. “It’s time to ensure everyone can afford an eco-shirt,” argues Alessandra Guerra, Sales & Digital Manager at EasyBio. To this end, the label focuses on a concise selection of simple products for men and women: underwear, t-shirts, trousers, hoodies, and jumpers, all made of GOTS®-certified cotton in many colours. All products are manufactured in Bangladesh. “Some might question the choice of Bangladesh, but EasyBio made this decision quite deliberately to make a point. We want to contribute to breaking down the prejudices against production in emerging countries and prove that it is possible to manufacture there fairly and correctly too.” EasyBio can rely on the structures of its partner company, which is known for employing its workers on a long-term basis and paying them adequate living wages. “This approach to production in Bangladesh is a key contributor to local development.” SUSTAINABILITY IN EVERY STEP
The manufacturing process is not only guided by fair working conditions, but also by commitment to sustainability in every single step. Even the cotton seeds are 100 percent organic and not genetically modified. No pesticides, chemical fertilisers, or insecticides are used. It goes without saying that EasyBio also consumes water and electricity in an eco-friendly way. The raw materials are all of natural origin; where synthetics are necessary due to fit considerations, EasyBio turns to regenerated materials. Even the packaging consists of recycled paper only. EasyBio demonstrates its environmental credentials with a number of certificates: GOTS®, FSC®, OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, WRAP®, and GRS®. Thus positioned, EasyBio intends to take on the DACH market as of this season. The brand is represented by Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz’s fashion agency D-Tails.
“EasyBio is our way of supporting the green revolution – which needs to happen regardless of gender, age, and social class – by offering an excellent price/performance ratio,” says Alessandra Guerra. Sounds easy, doesn’t it?
152
style in progress
T h e Wow Fac to r
VEGAN SNEAKERS WITH GLAM FACTOR Here’s how the shoes are made: the Løci design team exclusively uses vegan and recycled materials such as plastic waste from the ocean, recycled rubber and foam, and fast-growing raw materials like bamboo and cork. 10 percent of the proceeds from each pair sold are donated to the Save our Seas Foundation to help save endangered species. This uncompromising attitude has earned British brand Løci its excellent reputation with retailers such as Net-a-Porter, Selfridges, and Matches Fashion almost overnight. Prominent influencer collaborations featuring the likes of Nikki Reed, Lucy Hale, and Madison Beer as ambassadors for the brand are Løci‘s way of capitalising on the current glamour factor of sustainably produced sneakers. Nikki Reed in particular promoted her self-designed models professionally via social media, which probably did not go unnoticed by 21 million followers. www.lociwear.com
WHAT'S THE STORY
“The demand is immense! The brand has only been around since the beginning of this year. Sustainability is a hot topic, especially for sneakers, and it’s gaining momentum,” says Ben Botas, who has been promoting the sneakers since this season. Retail prices start at 150 Euros - with monthly order and delivery dates.
LØCI
al Soci ia d Me ing t Shooar t S
• Kick-start in spring 2021: Løci’s vegan and sustainably produced sneakers are still green behind the soles, but already established on the market. • Premiere in the German-speaking market with monthly order and delivery appointments in the showroom of Ben and.
Influencer Nikki Reed teamed up with Løci to design a mini capsule that gave the fledgling brand maximum exposure on social media.
style in progress
153
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
THE CUSTOMER RULES IT’S AS SIMPLE AS THAT!
• Rag & Bone presents all product categories under one roof • Quality and expert craftsmanship are core principles
154
style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY
T h e Wow Fac to r
The iconic US brand continues to promote its international growth plan. The brand is pursuing a focused approach in Europe by expanding the world of Rag & Bone with retail partners to include a full lifestyle range of products including denim, ready-to-wear, and accessories. In order to provide excellent service to customers in the German-speaking countries, the brand has teamed up with Munich-based fashion agency Ben and. The agency showcases the full Rag & Bone range. Bringing all Rag & Bone product categories together under one roof establishes a cohesive message to the customer. Quality, expert craftsmanship, and attention to detail inform the brand’s core principles. Simplifying how customers discover and shop Rag & Bone is a brand priority that supports the company’s overall goals of accelerating its international business. Marcus Wainwright, founder and Chief Brand Officer of Rag & Bone: “The next few years of challenges will likely be the same as the last few years, and the years that came before that. There are many, unpredictable challenges in this business that always offer an opportunity to learn, rethink, and adapt. The fashion market is like any other market in that it is fluid, much more than we think. There are no rules in this business, despite what many may tell you. We never forget that, and we always remember that the customer rules – it’s as simple as that!”
RAG & BONE
“The customer always rules,” says Rag & Bones founder and Chief Brand Officer Marcus Wainwright.
onal i t a n Inter rowth G
style in progress
155
WHAT'S THE STORY
New New Menswe ar
NEW NEW NEW NEW
MENS MENS
156
style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY New New Menswe ar Menswear is bursting with dynamism due to the fact that the suit has been reduced to a niche fetish. However, nobody intends to languish in sweatpants, at least not in the sweatpants that insinuate self-neglect. Men build their new wardrobe with persistent meticulousness and deep interest. They abide by product heroes and rely on quality. Brands are now required to open all the floodgates, because modern customers are more eager to immerse themselves in product knowledge than ever. If you have a story, you have a future. Illustration: local_doctor (stock.adobe)
WEAR S WEAR style in progress
157
WHAT'S THE STORY
158
style in progress
New New Menswe ar
New New Menswe ar
WHAT'S THE STORY
SALON DIALOGUE
THE NEW RULE: THERE ARE NO RULES! A projected 25 percent drop in menswear sales indicates that the entire segment is suffering. Is it though? Those who manage to lend new relevance to menswear, however, have plenty of opportunities open to them. Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek has spoken with protagonists of the New New Menswear. Gennaro Dargenio (CEO of Circolo 1901), Alessandro Hong (CEO of Distretto 12), Gianluca Modena (Export Manager of Jacob Cohën), Marco Tomasi (Head Designer at Strellson), and Christian Weber (owner and Head Designer of Weber + Weber) discuss a market that abandons all the old rules. They offer insights into five very different companies that have one thing in common. They recognised early enough that formalwear needs a new twist to adapt to the here and now. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Illustration: Simona Gala Baronti
W
ill formalwear ever return? Gennaro Dargenio, CEO of Circolo 1901: I believe so. It may not be the formalwear we had become accustomed to, but a man who enjoys wearing a suit, or is obliged to do so, will continue to wear it. I cannot imagine the tracksuit replacing the suit after the pandemic ends. Formalwear will certainly need to embrace other materials, such as more stretch for instance, and perhaps turn to cuts that offer more comfort. I have, however, been saying this for more than ten years. That is why “easy dressing” is the credo of Circolo 1901. Christian Weber, founder and owner of Weber + Weber: Covid has not fundamentally changed menswear, it has merely accelerated certain processes of change that started some time ago. I fully agree with what Genarro has just said regarding the demand for more comfort and stretch. Formalwear is being reinterpreted, cuts like “Taglio Vivo” are preferred. Casualisation is definitely a topic fuelled by the pandemic, but fashion has always been a mirror of society. Modern style in progress
159
WHAT'S THE STORY
New New Menswe ar
formalwear cannot be what it was 100, 20, or even 10 years ago. That is the beauty of our job, to identify these trends and implement them in our collections. Have the lockdowns changed men’s sartorial habits forever? Marco Tomasi, Head Designer at Strellson: What is happening now would have happened anyway, maybe just a little later. Many things have changed, especially the way we work and, accordingly, the way we dress. Everything needs to be more functional now, even the suit has to be more versatile. Alessandro Hong, CEO of Distretto 12: I agree one hundred percent. Smartworking, as we call it in Italy, has certainly changed sartorial habits somewhat. Video calls should still maintain a certain formality, but the looks must be functional and practical. I believe this shift is here to stay. A man who prefers a more formal look will return to it after the lockdown, even though he may seek more functionality in a suit, jacket, or trousers. Marco Tomasi: A suit, or formalwear in general for that matter, is no longer perceived as a “uniform”. People wear it because they feel like wearing it, not because they have to. In other words: formal is no longer mandatory, but something to be enjoyed. Is it fair to say that? Christian Weber: Perhaps one should ask oneself who or what defines formal dress codes today. After all, there are no rules anymore. One no longer questions what colour of shoe to wear with a suit, or which accessories should be combined. Individualism reigns supreme. For a young guy, a double-breasted suit with jeans and sneakers is elegant. Fortunately, we can mix and match everything today. This trend, however, already existed before Covid and we, all of us present here, have led the way in this respect and are naturally benefiting from this acceleration of casualisation and its relaxation of dress codes. What is crucial is that the pandemic has helped concepts like ours to be better understood by retailers. Before the pandemic, there was always the question of which range we should be incorporated into: formalwear or casualwear? Boss has announced that it has closed 2020 with sales down 25 percent. Is that worrying for the menswear segment as a whole, or is it just a reflection of a single company? Gennaro Dargenio: A 25 percent drop in sales is not unusual in 2020, because stores have been closed for a long time and each of us has made a loss in some shape or form. Those who have not updated their collections and made them more modern over the last few years are, of course, now suffering all the more. There were, and are still, no real occasions for classical attire. In fact, only the brands that recognised this trend early enough work – like us, who started deconstructing the formal eleven years ago. Deconstruction is a term I associate with all your brands. Is that the key to “survival”? Or more to the point, does this kind of New New Menswear even manage to claim market shares in the current climate? Alessandro Hong: We are still a very young brand, as we launched Distretto 12 a mere five years ago. Even then, it was clear to us that we had to build a men’s collection on the principle of comfort: a total look with lots of boiled wool, jersey, tricot – all things that fit and are practical. As for the
160
style in progress
last 18 months, I can only agree with Gennaro Dargenio. It certainly has not been easy, and we do not have exclusively positive news to report either. However, I believe that brands that are solely known for classic ready-to-wear have lost even more ground. Marco Tomasi: Strellson was originally deeply rooted in ready-to-wear. In recent seasons, however, we have invested specifically in the casual and sportswear segment. Our earlier sportswear collection provided the credibility for this change. The lockdown has encouraged us to pursue this direction even more consistently, and to invest further in the product and the collection. The feedback on the innovative collections and the new direction was very positive. Although we suffered a loss in the formal segment, we were able to compensate with casual products such as jersey, knitwear, pants, and outdoor. In other words, the casual segment has replaced the formal. Christian, you caught the eye with very positive results. Is Weber + Weber among the beneficiaries of this pandemic? Christian Weber: It sounds a bit arrogant when one puts it that way. But yes, the pandemic has accelerated certain processes and we have benefited from that. We have experienced unprecedented growth this year, because we offer exactly the right comfort product for this particular time. Our Travel Blazer has sold so well that we have now found the courage to take over a production facility in Italy. Of course, we also had fears at the beginning of this pandemic, but it quickly became apparent that the decision to create a “slow fashion” product was spot on and that we had struck a chord with the zeitgeist. We developed our Travel Blazer for three years before launching it. This item has an inherent value consumers can sense. Our product is low-key, ignores trends, and has no expiry date. The product comes first and all our efforts are focused on it. This is exactly what our customers look for: a high-quality product takes precedence over everything else. A man is known to be more difficult to seduce fashion-wise than a woman. Trends are less important in this context. How does one reach the modern man as a brand or retailer? Via fashion magazines? Via cross-media campaigns? Where do you obtain information? Gianluca Modena, Export Manager at Jacob Cohën: That is a very interesting question that needs to be answered from two different points of view: the personal and business perspective. Based on my personal experience and 25 years of working with retailers, I can confirm that men are indeed more conservative regarding their wardrobe than women. We develop our style between the ages of 14 and 25 and tend to remain true to it. Our style is subsequently influenced by our first steps in the professional world, but only changes in very rare cases. We typically discover brands and products that suit and appeal to us at a very early age and wear them for the rest of our lives, maybe out of convenience or a lack of time. We also have fewer significant occasions for which we have to “perform” than women. We are like (art) collectors, returning to our labels every season to buy exactly that pair of trousers, jacket, or shirt. We at Jacob Cohën experience that too. Our customers want to buy “their” models again every season, and are all the more pleased when they feature small changes and/ or new details. This gives them the feeling of having bought something new and, at the same time, right for them.
New New Menswe ar
So, where do men turn to for information when they wish to discover a new label regardless? Alessandro Hong: I think that is, to some extent, a question of age. My whole family works in our company and it illustrates really well how different generations approach the question of fashion. My brother is 24 and my sister is 23, so they are roughly 10 years younger than me. These two and their circle of friends primarily use social media to research products and fashion trends, be it influencers, fashion bloggers, or YouTube channels. This Gen Z desires status symbols. By contrast, Millennial men, to which I belong in my early 30s, choose according to occasion. What do I need for business? What do I need for leisure? Men over 30 definitely still visit their retailers and enjoy receiving advice. More often than not, their partners accompany them. (laughs) Marco Tomasi: I share Alessandro’s and Gianluca’s view. Men like to experiment between the ages of 14 and 25, but after 30 they have usually developed their style of choice. However, one should not forget that today’s Millenial also buys plenty online and retailers definitely have to rethink their store concepts accordingly. Stores have to provide customers with convincing incentives to return time and time again. It is a challenge to create an experience that reaches far beyond shopping alone. Was menswear hit so hard by sales losses because it is so much harder to convey online? Referring to B2B orders, even Lars Braun of Braun Hamburg said in our magazine: “The vast majority of blue suits look pretty much the same online.” Or was it simply a lack of demand on the part of consumers? Gennaro Dargenio: I assume that the customer who desires a classic blue suit is part of a different generation. This generation prefers to buy in-store rather than online. Generally speaking, clothing is harder to discern online than live. This kind of product is now struggling even more, because it is not really a necessity. I believe both is true: ready-to-wear for men failed to sell because one cannot adequately gauge its quality online and because there was no demand for it. Gianluca Modena: That is exactly how I see it too. Now, when the stores open again, there is a great opportunity for brands that have perfected “easy dressing”. After all, nobody wants to be seen in their old non-iron shirts and modular suits post-lockdown. Will New New Menswear, as we call it, experience a boom? Gianluca Modena: There will be a radical transformation of menswear. This change is not happening today, it was, as my colleague pointed out earlier, a process. Our way of life has been changed by Covid and the deconstruction of the formal has accelerated dramatically as a result. Today, a look has to meet a number of requirements: it has to fit, needs to be both practical and business-appropriate, and, of course, meet high quality standards. Only brands that combine all these features will benefit from the boom in easy dressing. The end consumer is no longer willing to forego the casual, the flowing and light fabrics, the “comfortable”. After all, this kind of fashion will be the natural dress code even after the lockdown, when we return to business trips or weekends in the countryside. The blue suit we just talked about will then be replaced by jersey, knitwear, and jackets featuring light structures and pleasant fabrics. I speak of a process because I saw early signs of this evolution years ago in Japan. Our customers there (Editor’s note: Gianluca Modena was working for The Gigi at that time) wanted the suits, in other words the truly classic
WHAT'S THE STORY
ready-to-wear, separately on two hangers, and with two labels. It was important to them to be able to present and sell trousers and jacket separately. This product presentation has bestowed a new lightness on the suit and I think it has succeeded in eliminating its rigidity and the preconceptions. I regarded this kind of presentation as ground-breaking and massively important. What do you yourself call this new era of menswear? What is the term that best describes what you are wearing? Gianluca Modena: “Relaxed elegance” describes it best for me. Marco Tomasi: I would call it “liberation of constraints”. Fashion has always been a mirror of society and the younger generations. The Millennials and Gen Z, which we referred to earlier, are no longer willing to bend to rules. This is equally evident in job choices. Today, work-life balance is key. We older people did not even know what that term means. That means modern fashion needs to be functional. It needs to be 24/7 wearable, because there are after-work recreational plans to consider. Fashion has to break all the rules to stay relevant. Alessandro Hong: 24/7 is a great term. Men’s fashion of today has to be just that, always wearable. It should dress you well, but not obligate you to anything. That is why the concept of “spezzato”, which Gianluca has just mentioned, is so important. One should be able to wear suit trousers and suit jacket separately and combine them in a casual way. Gianluca Modena: Whereby the Italian “spezzato” is somewhat different to what the Japanese mean. The Japanese actually wanted to split the suit and called it a “set-up suit”. The Italian “spezzato” combines jackets and trousers in different fabrics and colours. Yes, that is our speciality. Do you know why we are “spezzato” specialists? Because we Italians supposedly have more time in the morning to put our look together. Men in other countries are in a hurry to get to work, so they slide into their suits quickly. (laughs) Gennaro Dargenio: We were born to be fashion rule breakers. That has been Circolo 1901’s motto from the outset: break every rule of formality. That is how our bestseller, the Easy Jacket, came about – a jacket made of jersey. We were called crazy at the time. Today, one cannot imagine formalwear being any different. For me, and for us at Circolo 1901, the terms that define this new era are “easy” and “easiness”. Christian Weber: I have been thinking about what word I should use to define this era. I find that very difficult. We have always struggled to fit into one of the usual product categories. Many buyers asked us where they should display our products. They wanted to know whether Weber + Weber is classic or casual. Ultimately, we ended up right between formal and casual and still cannot define it with a single term. Maybe categorisation is no longer necessary? We talk all the time about breaking rules and a new era, yet now we want to find a term for the new menswear? I think the magic of this era lies precisely in its non-definition, otherwise we just open the next pigeonhole. Ok, I accept the refusal of categorisation. No rules is the new rule. style in progress
161
WHAT'S THE STORY
New New Menswe ar
He has a mind of his own: Andreas Weitkamp, Managing Director of Modehaus Schnitzler, in his eponymous store.
ANDREAS WEITKAMP
“I SIMPLY ENJOY TRYING SOMETHING NEW” Andreas Weitkamp stopped displaying sportswear in his eponymous store in spring. Instead, he has created a new stage for suits. Is this bold decision anachronistic or pioneering? style in progress went to find out. Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Studio Egotrips
Andreas, the sportswear trend is displacing ready-to-wear everywhere. Yet you have decided to reopen Weitkamp Store with a new focus on suits. Some people think I am crazy. I have been told that nobody else is moving in that direction right now. However, this may the perfect time to buck the trend. Could you elaborate on that in more detail? Until now, Weitkamp Store was dedicated to sportswear, but the stronger the trend became, the more we featured it both in Weitkamp Store and across the street in Modehaus Schnitzler. Why, for example, does the main store stock Moncler and Herno for women while Weitkamp Store stocks Moncler and Herno for men? Many people failed to understand the underlying reasoning. Now we present sportswear by the likes of Stone Island, Dondup, Herno, and Jacob Cohën in Modehaus Schnitzler and display ready-to-wear in a more self-contained setting in Weitkamp Store. This ensures the latter is awarded the respect it still commands. What convinced you to take this step? Men no longer want to wear sweatpants. I always picture Joko Winterscheid in his TV show. He wears a suit in a cool, modern way. We also strive to present the theme in a modern and cool setting, featuring jackets, chinos, shirts, knitwear, and complementary outerwear. How are you restaging the topic? We focus on showcasing inspirational looks: a three-piece by Tagliatore, a suit made of an extraordinary material, or an overshirt 162
style in progress
to match the trousers for the younger generation. It has become abundantly clear that ready-to-wear no longer works when merely hung in line or presented as four dark blue suits in a shop window. Does this mean a new style is required, featuring new silhouettes? This new style is already gaining some momentum and developing step-by-step. I am not talking about a fashion paradigm shift, but rather a different presentation. I envisage a look which encourages men to dress smartly again for a theatre visit, an evening in a restaurant, or a meeting with friends. Weitkamp Store customers have always been informed customers who were among the first to buy Moncler, Stone Island, and Jacob Cohën. Now we can surprise them with something new again. It seems you are willing to be deliberately stubborn. I am a Capricorn from Westphalia. You bet I am stubborn! I simply enjoy trying something new, even if others shake their head in disbelief at first. If you strive to sell emotion, you must be guided by emotion. Maybe the idea is nonsense, but maybe we are the first to implement something everyone has been waiting for. Weitkamp Store. Prinzipalmarkt 6/7, Münster/Germany Brands: Boglioli, Eduard Dressler, Drykorn, Fay, Kiefermann, Tagliatore, Weber + Weber Sartoria, Windsor
New New Menswe ar
, th ny
WHAT'S THE STORY arance is slightly e p p gra ea i Th
e to
uch exceptional ly
THE EXQUISITE FINE-KNIT POLOS AND LONGSLEEVES ARE SEAMLESS FOR EVEN MORE WEARING COMFORT.
t.
The new shirt jacket made of bourette silk is knitted in a multi-threaded pearl yarn structure. The colours of the season are non-colours such as mauve, silver, natural, khaki, lilac, classic blue, and navy.
so f
DELUXE KNITWEAR
Sustainability and product innovation: the Austrian collection focuses on knitwear and jerseys of the utmost quality for the spring/summer 2022 season – interpreted in a sophisticated, contemporary context and manufactured in the company’s own manufactory in Dornbirn. A capsule featuring bourette silk takes centre stage. “Pure bourette silk is a fantastic fabric that is absolutely sustainable,” explains Anja Grabherr-Petter, Creative Director of Phil Petter, enthusiastically. Silk has the capacity to both cool in the heat and warm in the cold. The touch is soft, while the surface is vibrant with nodular irregularities, a quality feature of a natural product that is also said to have anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and skin-soothing properties. “It is equally important to us to use cruelty-free silk, meaning that the silkworm is not killed as is the case in traditional silk production,” emphasises Grabherr-Petter. During the silk production process, the cocoons of the caterpillar are collected after hatching to spin bourette silk. The butterflies, which are beneficial to the environment, thus remain alive. “Phil Petter believes that bourette silk is the perfect new summer quality for luxury lightweight knitwear. Exceptional products, as well as their respective background stories, are essential for our brand. At the end of the day, however, the product speaks for itself in its uniqueness and quality.”
PHIL PETTER
Phil piecePetter man s are the bufactured man rand’s ow in ufac n Aust tory in ria.
style in progress
163
WHAT'S THE STORY
“WE WANT TO DO THINGS BETTER”
Nicolas, what is your focus in terms of the Royal RepubliQ shoe and bag collection? Nicolas Kjaer, founder and CEO of Royal RepubliQ: Craftsmanship and quality. We want to do things better by constantly striving to optimise fit and comfort. Innovation isn’t a trend. It’s always part of our design philosophy. We only use sustainable tanned leather with LWG certification and use recycled materials throughout our supply chain. What can buyers expect for the spring/ summer 2022 season? The collection is inspired by the design spirit of the 1970s, featuring contemporary sandals, Derbies, boots, and sneakers. Always with a rebellious edge expressed by the combination of materials and styles, traditional leather uppers with sporty crepe outsoles, and shapes reminiscent of our architectural design approach. We are a footwear and leather specialist that believes in longevity, as is proven by our design and material choices. Always relevant, not dictated by the trend of the season. Partnerships are also based on longevity. Yes, indeed. It’s one of the cornerstones of our business. We still work closely with most of the manufacturers, mainly based in Portugal, with whom I started in 2006. We have the same approach regarding our trading partners. We are in constant dialogue and develop tools accordingly. Together we’ve optimised our logistics and supply chain to reproduce bestselling seasonal styles in only four weeks. In addition to the two main collections with three drops, we have a strong NOS programme.
ROYAL REPUBLIQ
164
style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY
New New Menswe ar
GIADA
“ONLY THE BEST”
Giada has established itself internationally as a partner of high fashion brands such as Yves Saint Laurent over the last 30 years – not as a classic producer, but as an autonomous business with its own strong sales network. We glanced into the future with Commercial Director Jean Michel Wohlmann.
Jean Michel Wohlmann guides Giada as a globally engaged player in premium fashion. The competences go far beyond those of a producer – and are presently being expanded once more.
Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Giada
The end of the partnership with Jacob Cohën opens up new possibilities for Giada. What can we expect? We believe there are three areas that harbour great potential. For one, we are returning to a core competence of our company with a strong brand of our own. The great success with licences has somewhat eclipsed that angle in the last few years. Hand Picked is entering a very important season. The product is now really mature, just in time when denim is noticeably gaining momentum in the market again. A new, very exciting partnership is underway with Incotex Blue Division. This is a meeting of two specialists at the highest level. Together we introduce luxurious 5-pockets for men, in denim and cotton. Supplemented by a few selected tops, we are launching the collection in record time via our network of agencies all over the world. We have found the ideal partner for the DACH market in Ben and. Why did you choose Incotex? Incotex’s philosophy is to make the best trousers in the world. Giada, in turn, can be described as the university of denim. That is our culture. Together we now intend to make the best jeans in the world. And what constitutes the best jeans in the world? It starts with the fit, materials, and style, and ends with reliability in terms of product quality and durability. Responsible production must be a matter of course. For Giada, sustainable manufacturing has long been part of our daily practice. Our most modern production facility in Sicily is, in fact, located in the nature reserve around Mount Etna. No problem, because we even overfulfil the corresponding requirements. Another project is the collaboration with Vilebrequin… Giada only collaborates with the best in their field. In terms of swimwear, that is certainly Vilebrequin. We started with the first jerseys a few seasons ago. This summer, to celebrate our 50th anniversary, we are introducing a very focused total look collection to complement our denim. Our ambition is to establish Vilebrequin as an all-season lifestyle brand. For the coming winter, we intend to debut a jacket. A real highlight.
Return to core competence – with Hand Picked Giada is launching its first own brand in a while. Denim is in Giada’s DNA. A major prestige project is the new 5-Pocket collection for Incotex Blue Division.
From swimwear specialist to total look provider: Giada is developing Vilebrequin into a sophisticated leisurewear collection.
style in progress
165
WHAT'S THE STORY
New New Menswe ar
WITH ATTITUDE
Studio Seidensticker’s labelling and visual style pursue a distinctly contemporary, urban approach.
With its new collection entitled Studio Seidensticker, the Bielefeld-based shirt specialist strives to transcend wearing occasions and gender classifications. Aside from aesthetic codes, passion for the product, and the commitment to quality, tradition, and perfection, the aim is to reflect a clear attitude to social change. Important elements include outdoor-inspired overshirts with different lengths, collar variations, and pocket elements; straight-cut shirts made of qualities such as Tencel and Modal, completed by a range of gender-neutral styles that are firmly anchored in the collection structure and transferred to all product categories. Indispensable sweatshirts, as well as simple jersey and knitwear, supplement the product range with a visible expression of urban identity.
STUDIO SEIDENSTICKER
• Moving beyond wearing occasions and gender classifications is Studio Seidensticker’s credo. • Overshirts, sweatshirts, jersey, light knitwear, and, of course, shirts.
“The concept is geared towards a cosmopolitan, globally interconnected community and bridges the gap between trends, responsible consumption, and the expertise of a shirt specialist.” – Dr. Silva Bentzinger, CEO Seidensticker
166
style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY
New New Menswe ar
“The interpretations of our American Sportswear classics are more refined and luxurious than they have been in a long time. I am absolutely thrilled that we are referencing our college heritage so prominently.” Christopher Bastin, Creative Director of Gant
Gant is reinventing its American icons and staging them elegantly. Founded in 1949 on the American East Coast, the brand has had a lasting impact on the characteristic preppy style for over seventy years. The repertoire ranges from Heavy Rugger rugby shirts to club jackets and blazers inspired by the look of classic rowing clubs of past decades, to sweats, jackets, and chinos in classic college style featuring crest logos. Future essentials include trench coats, overshirts, cardigans, and tracksuits. By 2022, Gant wants to ensure that 100 percent of its cotton is sourced sustainably. For the collection scheduled for delivery this summer, almost 80 percent of all materials are already sustainably sourced – the aim is to reach 100 percent by 2025.
GANT
PREPPY HERITAGE MEETS ZEITGEIST Cool touch: comfortable street styles in classic looks define the collection’s silhouettes.
• Sustainability is the ultimate goal: all cotton will be sourced sustainably by 2022. • Elegant sportswear classics.
style in progress
167
WHAT'S THE STORY
Hand-spun, hand-woven: Terra Luna offers GOTS certified premium casualwear made of Khadi cotton.
New New Menswe ar
THE RETURN TO CRAFT Light as a feather, high-quality, and sustainable: the new Terra Luna collection fills a gap in the market with men’s shirts that are hand-woven from hand-spun Khadi cotton. What makes the shirts special? They are almost weightless on the skin yet breathable and boast excellent insulating qualities. Their fine weave indicates supreme craftsmanship, as the material is hand-spun and hand-woven on mechanical looms. All Terra Luna products are 100 percent sustainable and traditionally manufactured in an Indian Khadi Village, in compliance with international labour and social standards. “Resource conservation remains a top priority in all subsequent processing steps,” says Managing Director Alexander Socher, who co-founded Terra Luna with To The Moon of Eschborn late 2020. “The entire manufacturing process from field to fashion is GOTS certified.” The production of the shirts only requires three instead of 50 litres of water due to a special washing technique. Closest attention is paid to ensuring 100 percent degradability during the dyeing process, too. The price/performance ratio is equally impressive. At a mark-up of 2.8, retail prices for shirts range from 99.95 to 179.95 Euros. The shirts, shirt jackets, waistcoats, and trousers can be ordered as non-seasonal products all year round and are readily available via a warehouse in Germany. Organic linen shirts, available in five styles and 14 colours, complement the collection in summer.
TERRA LUNA
Durable quality, casual style: the size spectrum of Terra Luna ranges from XS to XXL.
Down to the last detail, production is environmentally friendly and socially fair. The buttons are made of hand-painted coconut, the tags of recycled fabric scraps.
168
style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY
New New Menswe ar
PEOPLE OF SHIBUYA
DENIM IS OUR NEXT STEP
People of Shibuya, renowned for its outerwear expertise, has decided to launch a denim collection. To this end, the brand has enlisted Italy’s finest “denim heads” to create a line of luxury jeans.
Angelo Loffredo, Art Director and co-founder of People of Shibuya, is looking forward to launching the brand’s new denim collection in the DACH region.
Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothànek. Photos: People of Shibuya
Why denim? Angelo Loffredo, Art Director and co-founder of People of Shibuya: Denim is the absolute musthave, always topical and never out of fashion. It is an item of clothing associated with many emotions and memories. Literally everyone owns a pair of jeans. What’s more, denim is always appropriate: in the office, at a family weekend, or in the evening at a restaurant. Jeans are, of course, also a great choice when travelling. Last but not least, denim contributes to sustainability, not least because it doesn’t need to be washed as often as other items in the wardrobe. Rather, jeans are coolest when worn often. You enlisted only the best for this project: Piero Turk and Joe Amoruso, Candiani and Giada. What are the expectations for this new collection? At People of Shibuya, we only go for the best when creating something new. We decided to target the top players in this segment, which is why we brought Piero Turk on board as a denim specialist and Joe Amoruso as a designer. The two have developed a collection that truly reflects luxury denim, not in terms of price, but in terms of presentation, details, and materials. As for fabrics, Candiani was the only logical choice: sustainable denim of the highest quality “Made in Italy”. Naturally, we also needed a production partner as excellent as quintessential denim manufacturer Giada. Green denim is our next challenge. Which retail customers is People of Shibuya Denim targeting? We not only strive to attract new customers, but also intend to grow with our existing partners. Our hope is that the DACH market in particular will respond as well as it usually does to our products. Yet we are aware that it is a demanding market, which is why we have invested heavily in fits and service levels. We aim to take advantage of Giada’s extensive experience in the German-speaking market, as they are real experts in the fits that this market demands. All styles are permanently available for reorder via a 24/7 stock service.
People of Shibuya is introducing a new segment to complement its outerwear roots: denim.
style in progress
169
WHAT'S THE STORY
New New Menswe ar
CREATIVITY, INNOVATION, & FUNCTION “Our hybrid trousers have generated strong revenue, even during the crisis,” says Marco Lanowy happily. Be it bike shops, golf shops, or the enthusiastic hikers of Megamarsch, carving out niche markets is paying off for Alberto. “Above all because our ‘normal’ customers are now also seeking out the bike or hybrid styles.” It goes without saying that this interest is being met with new fashion highlights. Pack is an innovative hybrid cargo that is completely committed to Japanese minimalist outdoor style. It is packable and comes with a rubber strap that can be worn as a shoulder strap, belt, or accessory. Japan remains a recipe for success in denim: the Japan Selvedge line features authentic selvedge styles in 13-ounce Japanese denim, worn loose with a high waist and five centimetres extra thigh width. As a lighter alternative, the brand offers Japanese denim in 11.5 ounces that further promotes the organic topic and looks cutting-edge thanks to environmentally friendly moon-washes. “Lightness is generally a key topic, as is reflected in our new The Light Jeans Chino.” Digital printing, realised by Alberto in partnership with a German provider, allows for a completely new level of creative freedom. “That’s how I define sustainability. Suddenly, you don’t need to buy in huge volumes or have separate inking rollers in order to produce creative prints,” says Marco Lanowy.
ALBERTO
Pack is an innovative hybrid cargo in minimalist design.
“We are looking forward to celebrating Alberto’s 100th anniversary in 2022 – an emotional event. Instead of launching an anniversary collection, we prefer to do what has made our company successful for the past 100 years: lending a new face to tradition by modelling the future with innovative products.” – Marco Lanowy, Alberto
Jeans account for roughly half of Alberto’s turnover and the premium models are particularly popular. This is why the brand has decided to expand its Japan Denim segment even further.
• Trousers designed utilising digital printing open up a new dimension of creativity while ultimately promoting sustainability. Marco Lanowy: “This is our first shot. We are so excited about being able to manufacture even more individually.” • “What is happening in terms of sustainable innovation at partners such as Candiani Denim or Martelli is truly impressive. Martelli, for example, uses natural rubber balls instead of stones in its moonwash process, which results in dramatically different looks.” Ultimate comfort: when 30 to 40 percent of the fabric is flexible, one wouldn’t guess that the product only contains three percent (preferably recycled) spandex.
170
style in progress
New New Menswe ar
WHAT'S THE STORY
TAGLIATORE
“WE, RIGHT HERE RIGHT NOW, ARE THE FUTURE”
Pino Lerario, Creative Director of Tagliatore, is brimming with optimism. Earlier this year, the brand opened its new showroom in the heart of Milan: House of Tagliatore. He sat down with style in progress to discuss courage and revolutions. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Tagliatore
Opening House of Tagliatore at this particular time is a significant and courageous step. Will it be rewarded? It is a company‘s responsibility to understand market dynamics and invest accordingly in tough times. We need to have a clear entrepreneurial vision that promises a better future for our employees and customers. That is why we decided to go straight on the attack by expanding our collections and opening this new home in Milan. House of Tagliatore is a place of inclusion that is constantly evolving, where different cultures coexist. It is a place that reflects our collections, makes our guests feel at home, and engages and stimulates them at events with a blend of cinema, art, and music. Milan was, of course, the obvious choice. The city is not only my second home, but the place where all international buyers gather. A collection like ours is still best experienced live. Its quality and attention to detail in every single piece can only be appreciated by touch. Tagliatore has always been somewhat of a revolutionary in menswear. What’s next? What does the future hold for the brand? We are experiencing a revolution in lifestyles and, of course, in consumer behaviour. People desire casual styles and practical pieces, but they still need to feature something special to
Pino Lerario, Creative Director of Tagliatore, says: “Tough times call for investment.”
suit every occasion. A fact which we here at Tagliatore have always been aware of, with a focus on fit, softer lines, and our signature, harmonious side-cuts. I love pieces from the collection such as our deconstructed seersucker cotton jacket with patch pockets and handcrafted details. Our love of checks is well documented, and we present them in new, creative ways every season. Aesthetics and functionality will remain our pillars in the future. In Italy you are undisputed, but what about the export market? Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Japan were the first markets to believe in Tagliatore and to recognise our potential. We are therefore quite confident that we can expand further in this area. The new showroom is, of course, linked to plans to establish ourselves in countries where we currently do not have a strong presence yet: in the rest of Europe, Russia, or the US. I am an optimist and have high expectations, because I know: we, right here right now, are the future.
House of Tagliatore is more than a showroom. Tagliatore invites customers to explore the brand’s soul in-depth.
Finest Italian fashion, a little rough around the edge: Tagliatore.
style in progress
171
WHAT'S THE STORY
New New Menswe ar
DUNO
TREADING NEW PATHS
Italian jacket manufacturer Duno has successfully made the transition from supplier for major brands to an independent label. Why has this transition been so smooth? Because extensive production experience meets a young, progressive mindset. Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothanék. Photos: Duno
The so-called “Capospallisti”, the outerwear specialists, reside in the area around Empoli in Tuscany. Anyone who grows up here is inevitably exposed to the grandees of “Made in Italy”. The Wang family soon succeeded in setting up their own business and began producing outerwear for major fashion houses. 2012, however, marked a turning point. Young Chris Wang no longer wanted to merely act as a supplier to the well-known brands; he had ambitions to launch his own label. The idea was to create jackets for “flaneurs”, globetrotters who seek activewear with style. He assembled some of the most creative minds of the industry and combined their ideas with the family business’ 30 years of product and production know-how. He then opted for his very own market launch strategy: instead of trying to gain a foothold in Italy first, Chris Wang concentrated on entering the Far East market. The retailers there were ecstatic. Names like Takashimaya, Isetan, Mitsu-koshi, United Arrows, Urban Research, and Tomorrowland in Japan, as well as Shinsegae, Lotte Department, and Galleria in Korea, were among the first customers.
Peek & Cloppenburg, Modehaus Schnitzler, Steffl, Granicher, and many more. The secret of success: jackets with the highest quality standards in the mid-price segment. In addition, Duno is continuously working on its cuts, materials and, of course, sustainability record. The Refuture project, conceived in 2020 as an environmentally friendly capsule, will be further expanded over the coming seasons. It features jackets made of up to 80 percent recycled materials, mostly regenerated fishing nets. Duno plans to expand further for summer 2022 while also strengthening its women’s collection. Furthermore, the brand is constantly experimenting with different material combinations. The results include double-face jackets that combine natural fibres and technical fabrics.
EXPORT FIRST
Next, Chris Wang and his team set their sights on Central and Northern Europe, where the brand managed to impress customers just as swiftly. In the DACH region, Duno now boasts more than 200 points of sale including household names such as Breuninger, KaDeWe, 172
style in progress
The innovation potential of Duno is reflected in pieces such as the double-face jacket: linen on one side, nylon on the other – yet both sides are equally water-resistant.
New New Menswe ar
WHAT'S THE STORY
GIANO
“LA MARTINA IS LIKE FIRST LOVE”
Enrico Paniccià is the owner and CEO of Giano, a company that has been producing shoes in the Marche region of Italy since 1946. His entrepreneurial talent has transformed a small shoe factory into one of the most important manufacturers and distributors in the region, which is, among other things, the exclusive licensee of La Martina Shoes. We sat down for a chat about tradition and evolution. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothànek. Photos: Giano
“The shoe of the future needs to be authentic and well-crafted. Naturally, it needs to be produced sustainably and fairly,” argues Enrico Paniccià.
Enrico, much has happened since you joined the Giano family business in 2000… Enrico Paniccià, owner and CEO of Giano: The company was founded in 1946 by my grandfather Umberto Intorbida in Torre San Patrizio as a small shoe workshop in which the workers of the large shoe factories supported my grandparents after their regular shifts. In the 1970s, my father joined the business and established Giano as a medium-sized company with up to 15 employees at the time. I often accompanied my father to customer deliveries and knew from a young age that I too wanted to work here one day. To cut a long story short, I became part of Giano in 2000 as a recent university graduate and quickly realised that we had to change our business model if we wanted to be more successful. This is how the licensing concept and our first collaboration with La Martina came about. La Martina and Giano have been doing business together for 15 years. What is the secret to this collaboration’s success? To Giano, La Martina is like the first love. I contacted Lando Simonetti at the time to tell him about my idea. We were experts in shoe production, but we had never produced shoes as licensees. Lando was bold enough to believe in me and Giano. It has been a very fruitful and successful collaboration ever since. We manufacture 50,000 per year and are listed in more than 300 stores worldwide. I truly believe that we owe our success to our open and fair partnership. What are the plans for the future? We would like to establish an even stronger presence in our main markets. Germany, for example, is one of our most important regions and we have drawn up very ambitious plans with Ben and for the coming seasons. We
adore Germany as a very grateful and loyal market, which is why we are investing in local marketing and services. Furthermore, we are working hard on the expansion of our other two brands: Harmont & Blaine (also a licence partner) and Woolrich (joint venture partner). The shoe of the future – what will it look like? It needs to be authentic and well-crafted. People demand quality now. Naturally, it needs to be produced sustainably and fairly, which is why Giano is investing heavily in this area, and we are delighted to have gained ACBC as a partner. The B-CORP start-up from Milan produces all its “Made in Italy” models through us. style in progress
173
WHAT'S THE STORY
New New Menswe ar
“Unlike fast fashion, we care deeply about the value of clothing. Tom Ripley is committed to fair and sustainable production at medium-sized family businesses in Italy.” Wolfgang Müller, owner of Tom Ripley
THE ITALIAN WAY OF AMERICANO TOM RIPLEY
The American part of Tom Ripley reveals itself in the emphasis on polos.
• Jersey and polo shirts made of ElastiCotton featuring detailed elements with nostalgic motifs are typical of Tom Ripley. Special collars convey exclusivity as well: alongside sporty tipping, the Bauhaus-style look in particular. • The “Filo di Scozia” line is endowed with a summery vintage look due to a special dyeing and washing process.
174
style in progress
Tom Ripley’s collection, which has been expanded to 35 pieces, demonstrates specialisation of the highest order: from Ice Cotton jersey shirts to sweaters and hoodies, from typical ElastiCotton polos to Filo di Scozia knitwear. The brands love of detail is even evident in its colours: Violetto, Corallo, and Cobalto alternate with summer darks such as Militare and Espresso – brightened up by white and light natural hues for summery ease and freshness. Be it a linen knit-one-purlone jumper in coarser panels, a mesh-knit polo shirt, or a polo shirt featuring a geometric wave structure, the retro touch always remains a mainstay of the brand. Organic cotton, mercerised and dyed using a particularly sparing process, is used, for example, in the full-zip cardigan with a tonal texture and blouson collar. Knitted t-shirts provide an element of surprise: casual yet classy in delicate panels that are barely distinguishable from jerseys. Materials with a cool feel, such as cotton crepe or linen blend, and tie-dye techniques emphasise the exceptional.
Dolce Vita is the collection segment that combines comfort with style. For example: Tom Ripley's sweat Bermuda with stylishly stitched piping.
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
WHAT'S THE STORY
COMMERCE CENTRE
Save the city centres? How about saving pandas and whales too while you’re at it? If city centres are to have a future, they must not allow themselves to be saved. They must save themselves by radically reinventing business models. They need to prove they deserve a place in the midst of a digitised world. First, however, it’s time to understand that huge, immobile warehouses in prime locations are remnants of a time when a yellow DHL truck was still a stagecoach.
style in progress
175
WHAT'S THE STORY
176
style in progress
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
WHAT'S THE STORY
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
A FUTURE WITHOUT SHOPPING BOULEVARDS Anyone who continues to plan inner-city retail environments in the same way as before might as well close down straight away. The future does not hinge on a new couture curation, collectible sneakers, or contactless payment systems. Community policy and urban planning decide who will attract customers to the city centre, and what role shopping will play there in the future in general. We have compiled six thought-provoking ideas. Text: Petrina Engelke. Illustration: grandfailure/stock.adobe.com
T
he good news is that retail is not doing badly at all, despite the coronavirus measures. According to HDE, the retail sector as a whole achieved a plus of 5 percent in 2020 compared to the previous year. Yet while the food sector is booming, e-commerce is growing by a good 20 percent, and furniture and DIY stores are also making money, the merchandise is piling up in fashion stores. The textile sector reported a decline of almost 25 percent. style in progress
177
WHAT'S THE STORY
1
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
THE POST-CORONA BOOM PIPE DREAM
Lack of demand for chic clothes is not a new phenomenon. Style icons have lamented the “leggingisation” of the world for years while Casual Fridays chipped away at office norms. How has the fashion industry hitherto reacted? With shifts in the product range or in the discount race, or both. This is no viable long-term solution to anything. Sure, how welcome would balls, weddings, and club nights be right now. A new dress for every citizen! But what next? A return to the valley of tears? The only way out is honesty. People are not reliant on fashion boutiques, as was evident during lockdown. The same applies to cities. Without acknowledging this reality, every store concept remains a pipe dream.
2 4 5 3 6 THE MEANING OF LIFE, THE MEANING OF RETAIL
The restricted radius of lockdown life has proven the advantages of a “15-minute city”. This radical new urban concept means that people can find everything they need within walking distance. There is no need to commute between home and work, or to drive to university, the cinema, and stores. On the one hand, this provides opportunity for the retail sector. This concept would mean that every larger city has not one city centre, but many. On the other hand, the heart of these multiple centres is not a department store, but the school. In the afternoon, people sunbathe in the leafy schoolyard. In the evening, they attend a concert in the auditorium. Such a city is useful, diverse, and vibrant. The only question is what does a fashion store actually offer its neighbourhood, apart from looting people’s wallets? Those who find an answer to this question have a foot in the door to the future of retailing. ADDED VALUE BEYOND TAX RETURN
Thanks to home office, the inner cities are devoid of office workers. Nobody knows whether this will last. Research by the British Centre For Cities suggests that walk-in shoppers will return in varying degrees after the coronavirus measures end. The irresistible appeal of commerce has long been questioned by dull shopping boulevards. That is why some cities are turning their attention to the community. The City of Hanau supports citizens in realising their business ideas, turning them into attractions in the city centre. Local start-ups are invited to present their products in a vacant department store area for three months at a time. Other cities promote multi-functional build-
178
style in progress
ings: shopping, services, and a meeting place under one roof. A multi-purpose concept on the sales floor would also enable stores to spread their desolation risk more widely. The question is what social added value the fashion trade wants to offer. WHEN FASHION TURNS IN CIRCLES
The pandemic-induced business hiatus may turn out to be an opportunity. After all, many shopkeepers’ brains have been in tinkering mode since the first lockdown and are now proficient at facing uncomfortable truths. One of these truths is that seasonal collections are disposable. Yet there are multiple ways to earn money with fashion, for example with rental clothes, alteration services, or second-hand options. That, in turn, would suit the city centre of the future perfectly. Many municipalities are not only addressing circular economy because of the climate crisis: a toy rental shop, a repair café, or a recycling boutique breathe life into city centres. This is the new competition. BETTER THAN ONLINE GIANTS
The onset of the pandemic was a shock to Amazon: US chains such as Walmart, with their brick-andmortar stores, were closer to the customer. Inner-city stores are equally capable of outsmarting the online giants, as long as they start realising that the lone wolf strategy is no longer viable. What is lacking is a city-wide online shop where residents can arrange entire outfits from different stores before trying them on or picking them up. The book trade is pioneering such an approach with Genial Lokal, and Label Bird is experimenting with the idea for labels. For retailers, however, this would mean abandoning a cherished enemy. It is not e-commerce that spells the demise of fashion stores, but tunnel vision. FAREWELL TO THE STORE
It seems as if shopping sprees are less in demand than relaxation, recreation, civic participation, and practical, sustainable services. Some fashion stores will inevitably fail to adapt to this new environment. However, saying farewell does not necessarily entail going out of business. Floor space can be utilised by paying partners or reinvented as sensual experiences – brand building on every square metre, albeit for online business. Another conceivable option is to forego walk-in customers in expensive locations by relocating to a showroom that admits customers by appointment only. They are used to such concepts now. No matter how you look at it, the city centre of the future does not have room for dozens of fashion stores hellbent on clearance sales. Surely this is an excellent opportunity to finally come up with better solutions.
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
WHAT'S THE STORY
Embedded in-store sensors provide valuable data about customer behaviour and feedback. The Latest is a live field study for brands.
Experience-as-a-Service: brands and entrepreneurs can present their innovations on a sales floor that can be part-rented. Pictured: Dhi Matiole Nunes.
THE LATEST/BERLIN
FUTURE HUB FOR EARLY ADOPTERS In order to establish the city centre as an emotionally viable platform for innovation, it requires ideas that look far into the future. The team of The Latest is keen on setting an example on Berlin’s “Ku’damm”. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: The Latest
Mr Nunes, what must a stationary store of tomorrow be capable of to remain competitive in the face of e-commerce’s speed? Dhi Matiole Nunes, co-founder of The Latest: Fundamentally, we have to acknowledge that physical stores cannot compete with the offer, product availability, and price pressure of online retailing. However, I firmly believe that, in turn, the experience surrounding a brand or product cannot be reproduced online. Emotion is essential. It is my conviction that brick-and-mortar retail needs to cooperate with its online counterparts while focusing on those services that cannot be experienced online.
This creates real added value for brands. The relationship between retailers and manufacturers is out of sync. Manufacturers are frequently forced to pay high advertising subsidies to retailers and agree to long payment terms, but do not receive the desired performance in return. It is time for manufacturers to reclaim the customer journey. What are topics that will dominate stationary retail in the future? Stationary retail will no longer necessarily be the place of purchase, but the place of experience. The focus will no longer be on mass products, but on the showcasing of curated products. The future will bring brand stores in major metropolises that present the latest and most innovative products to their customers and the so-called key opinion leaders. Topicality or appeal? How does The Latest answer this question? We strive to establish a vision through our concept, remaining one step ahead of the
prevalent trends and retail environment. The Latest prioritises product experience and community engagement. Our curated presentation area exclusively showcases selected products that have to meet certain criteria such as no existing presence in stationary retail and a high innovation level. Naturally, we are delighted when a customer decides to shop with us locally – but that is merely a peripheral aspect. The Latest serves as a brand ambassador for the manufacturers it represents. Our objective is to offer the best possible in-store experience to all interested parties. For example, anyone who discovers a certain product through our marketing activities receives in-depth advice from our store experts and is introduced to the product world. The Latest is therefore not only a testing ground for companies, but also a playground for end customers.
style in progress
179
WHAT'S THE STORY
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
Manifattura Tabacchi comprises 16 buildings, including flats, showrooms, a university, kindergartens, restaurants, and retail outlets.
Luca and Marco Baldini are transforming the 100,000-squaremetre site of a former tobacco factory in Florence into a new district outside the city centre.
MANIFATTURA TABACCHI/FLORENCE
“TOO MANY WONDERFUL PROJECTS REMAIN MIRAGES” Brothers Luca and Marco Baldini are the driving force behind q-bic, which has been spearheading projects such as La Menagere, Moebius, and Mercato Centrale in Italy and abroad since 2005. Their latest project is the revitalisation of Manifattura Tabacchi in Florence, dubbed “a new city centre beyond downtown”. We sat down with them to discuss the transformation of city centres as commercial hubs of society. Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Manifattura Tabacchi
You specialise in spaces that fuse design, art, fashion, and gastronomy. How do you perceive the transformation of city centres? Luca Baldini, architect at q-bic: There is certainly no lack of ideas on how to restore the appeal of city centres. However, the implementation is often challenging, because in order to achieve real (r)evolutions, both administration and commerce need to work on and for these transformations alongside 180
style in progress
planners. Far too often, wonderful projects remain no more than mirages. I believe that future cities should abandon the dichotomy of city centre/commerce and suburbs/residential. As in the past, one should be able to do everything in city centres: dwell, work, consume, and play – in short: live. Manifattura Tabacchi is a project that strives to implement all these aspects. Tell us what you have in mind. Marco Baldini, designer at q-bic: Manifattura Tabacchi is an old tobacco factory just outside Florence’s historic city centre that remained in operation until 2001. Our vision for this 100,000 sqm site is to revitalise it, to turn it into an urban area beyond the city centre. The visions of planners and owners, a joint venture between cdp immobiliare and Gruppo AERMONT, coincide in this project. It should not be a purely residential or commercial district, but offer everything people need for living – including aspects that inspire mind and soul. Last but not least, it needs to be sustainable in
nature with plenty of green areas. Luca Baldini: Manifattura Tabacchi is intended to be attractive to everyone, not only its residents. The aim is to also attract people from surrounding areas and the city centre. Does this reflect the future of retail? Places, both within and outside city centres, that offer a 360-degree experience? Luca Baldini: We need a compelling reason to travel into town, because we can order everything from home with the click of a button. Marco Baldini: These places are references to the past. The “piazza” was once the heart of social life. Think of the little “bottega” next to the café or carpentry workshop. This is where children used to play football while pensioners watched from a bench. We urban planners need to recreate such places, and politicians should support our efforts. This is how trade can flourish once more.
WHAT'S THE STORY
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
“ENTIRELY NEW JOB COMPETENCIES WILL EMERGE”
Patrick Palombo, Product Owner PSR at Arvato Systems, is convinced that a vibrant city centre is one in which the inventory of the stores is actively integrated into the retailer’s omnichannel strategy at all times.
Flexibility and agility require a backbone: Arvato Systems offers two solutions that help retailers align their product range and service with the needs of the end customer in challenging times. style in progress caught up with Patrick Palombo, Product Business Owner PSR, for a chat. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Arvato Bertelsmann
As someone who has been involved in e-commerce in Germany since its beginnings, what is your perspective on the “corona year”? Did it really cause a digitisation boost? Definitely. Companies that had previously rejected all state-of-the-art Click & Collect or order management systems have suddenly started implementing solutions at record speed. The awareness that the retail environment will look different tomorrow has finally entrenched itself in their minds. What should modern retailing entail? Could you perhaps describe your vision based on your PSR SaaS solution? According to the vision of our PSR (Planning, Steering, Reporting) application, the future of retail not merely includes a top-down dimension, but also an important bottom-up aspect. To date, procedure has been as follows: a central buyer decides to allocate 1,000 white t-shirts to a certain branch for the summer season. However, for a specific reason – let us assume because a fashion discounter that advertises cheap
white t-shirts has opened next door – this branch already knows during the planning phase that it cannot sell these 1,000 t-shirts at full margin. Our application allows the store in question to correct the initial assignment, meaning that planning is the result of a holistic process rather than taking place exclusively at one level. The fact that these 1,000 t-shirts have so far been allocated solely on the basis of experience or assumptions is surely no longer acceptable in today’s world. Relevant keywords are margin pressure and sustainability… Yes, but you know this industry well. Even in medium-sized and large companies, product range strategy often relies on spreadsheets, which, of course, fail to reflect dynamic developments and do not allow for in-season management. The objective must be to avoid excess stock and, if it does occur, to be able to respond to it quickly. Surely it should also be possible to activate branch inventories for online sales and same-day deliveries? Yes, that is the issue we address with Arvato Aroma, a different SaaS solution that makes medium-sized and larger chain stores omnichannel-capable. I see huge potential in this field. Ultimately, this will create new jobs – or expand existing job profiles and competencies. Salespeople will prepare parcels for shipment, commission couriers, or handle online returns as a matter of course.
style in progress
181
WHAT'S THE STORY
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
Q(UICK)-COMMERCE AND DARK STORES THE FUTURE OF FASHION INDUSTRY 4.0?
Across Europe, on-demand courier services such as Spanish start-up Glovo are investing heavily in so-called “dark stores”. The term describes inner-city warehouses in strategic locations in which goods that need to be delivered quickly can be stored. End consumers who are keen on receiving their online orders even faster are fuelling q-commerce. The urban delivery hubs make same-day or even one-hour express deliveries possible. This business model has already proved very successful for segments such as grocery and food delivery services. Could q-commerce also be the future of the fashion industry? Pinko, for example, entered into a partnership with Glovo in July 2020 and is one of the first companies in Italy to offer fast fashion delivery.
3DELUXE
THE FUTURE OF URBAN SPACE
The fascination of urban centres stems from their liveliness and dynamism. Change is the very lifeblood of modern cities. The nascent transformation from a car-dominated city to an intelligent mobility cosmos promises to be one of the most compelling challenges of the coming decades. The 3deluxe design study for a car-free Times Square in New York has recently been adapted to Berlin’s “Friedrichstrasse”, a section of which will remain closed to car traffic until October 2021 as part of a trial run. “Now that it is evident that the car will gradually disappear from the urban landscape, it is time to think about how to redesign the streetscape in the future,” says Dieter Brell, Creative Director of 3deluxe. “Car-reduced cities do not imply a reduction of urban life or mobility; on the contrary, forms of mobility are becoming more diverse and complex and will make our cities more vibrant and people-friendly.” This requires welcoming spaces for the ever-growing group of users of environmentally friendly individual mobility, allowing for harmonious interaction with pedestrians, cyclists, and e-shuttles for the transport of people and goods. To avoid playing off one mode of transport against the other, it is essential to create dynamic mobility zones that combine gentle mobility for city dwellers and visitors with fast express routes for bikers and cars in a respectful coexistence.
Cityscape of the future: interwoven islands and spaces with workout and relaxation areas, playgrounds, urban gardening, green zones, cafés, and charging stations for e-mobility.
182
style in progress
Dieter Brell, Creative Director of design studio 3deluxe from Wiesbaden, designs organic, urban landscapes for modern mobility.
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
WHAT'S THE STORY
Freiraum represents tangible brand affinity: it allows customers to experience digital native brands with all their senses.
FREIRAUM
AN INTERFACE TO AVOID VACANCIES Retail-as-a-Service platform Freiraum, launched by Emanuel Elverfeldt and Franz De Waal, aims to connect brands that were previously only available online with vacant retail spaces in prime locations. A pilot project started in January 2020 with the opening of an inaugural Freiraum concept store in the basement of the iconic Quartier 205 shopping centre in Berlin’s “Friedrichstrasse”.
“We are the omnichannel partner for digital Direct-to-Consumer brands seeking offline sales channels. Many modern D2C brands are promoted online and are primarily visible on social media platforms such as Instagram. Accordingly, customers lack the opportunity to experience the merchandise physically before making an informed purchase decision. We strive to make it as easy as possible for brands on our platform to leverage a physical customer experience. We
Freiraum founders Emanuel Elverfeldt and Franz De Waal offer brands direct access to consumers in prime retail spaces that guarantee high customer frequency.
enable them to go offline with a few clicks while still selling products via the Freiraum online marketplace,” explains Emanuel Elverfeldt, who has years of experience in real estate investment. He has worked for, among others, BNP Paribas, Hudson Advisors Lone Star Funds, Cresco Capital Group, and – most recently – as Director Investments at Rocket Internet. “We are reducing the current vacancy rate to counteract the demise of city centres. According to HDE, around 20 percent of retail space will be vacant as of late 2021. Freiraum offers an experience-oriented, digitally connected marketing channel that interlinks online and offline, and enables constantly changing, exciting brands to appear in stationary
retail at short notice and flexibly in prime locations. Omnichannel is the future. No matter whether the customer buys on site via a QR code or decides to buy later at home, in both cases the goods are conveniently delivered to the customer’s home,” says Franz De Waal, who, after studying in London and Cambridge and winning several awards, including the Alastair Ross Goobey Award, worked for Tishman Speyer Properties for several years, where he was primarily involved in the development and management of properties in London and Berlin. More than 120 brands are represented on the platform so far, both stationary and digitally connected to the Freiraum app and website. style in progress
183
WHAT'S THE STORY
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
Paper, cardboard, and wood: Adidas offsets CO2 emissions in this POS campaign.
THE 15-MINUTE CITY LIVELY, USEFUL – SMART?
LIGANOVA
POS MEASURABILITY OF THE CLIMATE FOOTPRINT What is the focal point in terms of sustainable brand presentation at the point-of-sale? Torsten Dietz, Managing Director Global POS Campaigns at Liganova: CO2 savings at the POS have become a green currency for global brands by virtue of their climate footprint. Sustainability is not a question of instinct. Rather, it is about creating transparency and facts for companies. Objective and validated data must become a decision-making aid in all value creation processes. Torsten Dietz, Managing Director What exactly is the Liganova Green Campaign Global POS Campaigns at Liganova. Cycle initiative? Sustainability efforts in retail must encompass all touchpoints within the customer journey: from ideation to conception, from implementation to rollout. Our climate footprint measurability solution makes KPIs more transparent and serves as a decision-making basis. This involves measuring the CO2 emissions of campaigns along the value chain in order to monitor and control their environmental impact. To this end, we collaborate with DEKRA, the Fresenius University of Applied Sciences and the FSC Association for Responsible Forest Management. How does this work in practice? Our data-driven approach allows for accurate measurement of the environmental impact of projects. We analyse the totality of greenhouse gas emissions, from materials to electricity consumption to shipping emissions, and then offer customers a greener alternative. www.greencampaigncycle.com
Everything you need within a 15-minute radius of home: pop-up offices, food markets, pleasant meeting places, and services ranging from shipping to legal advice. Add schools, care facilities, and plenty of greenery. This is how Sorbonne professor Carlos Moreno envisages the 15-Minute City. The mayor of Paris, Anne Hildago, campaigned with this concept even before the pandemic struck. Now the 15-Minute City is emerging on the international stage as an important building block of economic recovery. More pedestrian and bicycle traffic improves more than just the air. For the fashion industry, this means shifting the focus from retail temples in high-frequency streets to smaller boutiques in individual neighbourhoods. Farewell, monotony! Photo: Sylvain Leurent
“When we reflect on the importance of city centres, we also need to confront explosive social issues. Why have the hearts of our cities devolved into investment models?” Christoph Stelzer, Managing Director of dfrost Retail Identity
184
style in progress
design by wundergestalten.de
visit us and get your dose! Pitti Uomo Florenz
29.06. – 02.07.21
Showroom Munich
12.07. – 20.07.21
Showroom Düsseldorf 22.07. – 27.07.21 „Sturmfreie Bude“, Georg-Glock-Str. 3, Nähe Kaiserswertherstr. Showroom Munich
29.07. – 29.08.21
www.diehinterhofagentur.de
We keep moving forward opening new doors and doing new things, because we’re curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths. Walt Disney
“Opening perspectives” has been the buzzword of the past few months. Unfortunately, its emergence did not lead to any form of opening up, but rather the opposite. However, retailers worldwide have overcome the obstacles placed in their paths by the virus and politics in order to push ahead with opening new stores. Their concepts are uncompromisingly progressive, focused on hand-picked merchandise and carefully curated product ranges. They eclipse e-commerce with ostentatiously dosed appeal and embedded innovation. This elevates these stores above any brick-and-mortar vs online debate. They put an end to the dependence on brands and their availability, commodity pressure, and price erosion by transforming their concept into a brand of its own right. In short: retail at its most exciting. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Stores
186
style in progress
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
WHAT'S THE STORY
Presentedby opened its latest store for luxury streetwear and sneakers in Dubai in December 2020 in cooperation with Level Shoes.
Presentedby/Dubai “An Experience Worth Every Visit” Photos: Presentedby
“Our stores allow customers to sense, feel, discover, ponder, enjoy, and share an experience” – Ridwane Ettoubi
He never wanted an online store. This mindset outs owner Ridwane Ettoubi as a true retail enthusiast. All three Presentedby stores in London, Paris, and Dubai celebrate an extreme in-store experience. In Dubai, the most recent store launched in December 2020, this manifests itself as a printed three-dimensional grid featuring interactive projections. The product range consists of exorbitantly expensive design and collector’s items such as the self-lacing Nike Air Mag and strictly limited editions. Ettoubi knows full well that exclusivity is booming. “Our approach is to offer products and experiences that are worth every visit.
All our merchandise is strictly limited and highly exclusive. Our range follows trends and can vary considerably in price. That is what our customers demand. Our task is to curate and present the products as pieces that deserve to be treasured. To this end, we create progressive, fascinating, and experiential stores that blend original and fresh interior design with cutting-edge technologies. We literally elevate products through theatrical and entertainment elements to tell the individual stories of each product line in the most compelling way possible.” Presentedby, Level Shoes, The Dubai Mall, Financial Centre Rd, Dubai/UAE, www.presentedby.com style in progress
187
WHAT'S THE STORY
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
Virgil Abloh challenges the conventions of fashion retail: his new store is a communication proposal to the post-Google generation of consumers.
Flexible façades expand the limitations of what is spatially possible.
Off-White/Miami A Swan Song to the Threshold Photos: AMO, Off-White
Few designers push the conventional boundaries of the fashion and design industry as radically as Off-White designer Virgil Abloh. Together with Rem Koolhaas’ creative think tank AMO, he has created a new flagship store in the middle of Miami’s “Design District”, which celebrated a comparatively quiet opening last year. As a qualified architect, the current creative director of Louis Vuitton himself had a hand in the concept of the store designed to elevate experience above product. As he explained in an interview with the architecture blog Dezeen: “Instead of us having dinner conversations at restaurants, I said, hey, let us put something on paper, let us put some skin in the game. What does retail look like and let us start 188
style in progress
challenging it. What does architecture mean today? What does retail mean? What does ground floor real estate look like in a world post-Google and Amazon?” The answer to these questions is modular. On the ground floor of the store, two façades can be moved at will to create different spaces. They fundamentally change the notion of a brand store, as they deliberately open up the space to the street. Abloh perceives his store as a communication proposal to the environment. Off-White, 127 NE 41 Street, Miami/US, www.off---white.com
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
WHAT'S THE STORY
Celebrating premium streetwear and its increasing relevance in fashion: Jens Christensen’s Akenz is a monument to innovative fashion retail.
Akenz/Shanghai A Chance for Reflection Photos: Peter Dixie for Lotan Architectural Photography
Jens Christensen demonstrated pioneering spirit back in 2016 when he opened the first Akenz stores in Shenyang and Shanghai to present Scandinavian luxury streetwear in a multi-label format. When the newly designed shop opened in Shanghai‘s TX Mall in early summer 2020, the radical lockdown had just ended. For Christensen, it was the perfect time to look ahead with a progressive range and a new store design: “2020 was definitely a challenge for the retail sector, but also an opportunity for us to reflect. We believe that authenticity in presentation is important. Although we sell high-priced designer products, we all have a close affinity to street culture and hip hop, which is why we have designed our store accordingly.” Christensen expresses his optimism regarding current challenges by concentrating on products that transcend trends. “Our motto is authenticity over hype. That means staying true to our style, remaining committed to our approach, and showcasing unique designers. An increasing number of our customers are showing very profound interest in technical details and innovations in production, so we deliberately select designers and brands that are pioneers in these areas and are promoting innovation in the industry.” Akenz, Middle Huaihai Road, Huangpu District, Shanghai/China, www.akenz.com
The Akenz skate park in Shanghai interprets streetwear as a tribute to the authenticity of urban youth cultures.
style in progress
189
WHAT'S THE STORY
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
J1M5 Boutique opened its hyper-flexible store in Qingdao in October 2020. The looks are presented in movable wardrobes that also serve as fitting rooms.
Change as a concept: the store can be transformed into a catwalk, an event venue, or a gallery in the blink of an eye.
190
style in progress
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
WHAT'S THE STORY
J1M5/Qingdao A Style Universe in a Suitcase Photos: Various associates
A playful exchange of micro and macro elements creates an ever-changing design layout that emphasises flexibility as the store’s maxim. The J1M5 boutique is composed of modules that can be transformed into gigantic suitcases, urban skyscrapers, or intimate dressing rooms. They contain hand-picked fashion, culture, and style elements from all corners of the world – some compiled in advance as personal customer recommendations, others conceived as sources of inspiration. The cupboard elements can be rotated and transformed into columns, rails, display windows, wardrobes, or entire cubicles. This allows for private shopping sessions at very short notice. Customers can put together a selection in advance and try it on in the walk-in wardrobe, so to speak. The store transforms into an infinite space where logic meets art. “The primary ambition of all modern fashion stores is not to present fashion as a consumer item, but to create an open experiential environment that allows people to share ideas and explore creative content,” says store owner Coco. J1M5 Boutique, Hisense Plaza, Qingdao/China
style in progress
191
WHAT'S THE STORY
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
The perfect backdrop: the architects of Inainn prioritised media-effective spots and sustainability.
Modo/Ålesund “We Challenge Their Impression” Photos: Votton AS
Håkon Avseth and Marius Ryste launched Modo, a landmark project in Norway‘s fashion scene, in 2020. It is a statement of conviction on behalf of independent retail, both online and offline. “I firmly believe in innovative, independent formats with deep passion for their customers and identity. I believe in the customer’s 192
style in progress
Modo was the signature project of the Norwegian fashion scene. The store’s team combines Scandinavian design with international brands.
desire to be seen and heard, online and offline. This kind of service requires dedication to organisation, and I think that is easier to implement in smaller stores. That is why I remain a firm believer in independent retail,” says Ryste. He is already aligning the range for the backlash against the prevailing leisurewear trend: “We have been observing a boom in comfortable feel-good looks for some time now, but this segment has exploded during the pandemic. Analogous to the demand for relaxed clothing and engineered comfort, the demand for formal styles dropped. We are already starting to see the backlash to this on the horizon, which is why we are gearing our range towards knitwear and more formal looks for autumn/winter 2021. How exciting!” Modo, Kipervikgata 5, Ålesund/Norway, www.modostore.no
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
WHAT'S THE STORY
Peak/Moscow New Powerhouse in Moscow Photos: Aurore°
“This store is my personal fashion statement,” says Sergey Tanin confidently. He is a streetwear pioneer in Moscow. FOTT, his first store project, still enjoys cult status despite the fact it no longer exists. Peak, his latest adventure, also received plenty of plaudits before it opened its doors to the public in autumn last year. This was partly the “fault” of Mariia Kachalova, who unites a handful of progressive, young architects in her team at Aurore°. They are currently involved in the most important lighthouse projects within the emerging Moscow retail scene. If you want to feel the pulse of this city, she is the one to talk to. She was also involved in Peak from the outset: “Most stores started selling their products online during the lockdown. Even Peak, a project that was explicitly founded with the intention of being a new hotspot in the city centre, had to be launched online. The whole design process took place digitally in a decentralised manner, which was a major challenge,” she explains. “Personally, I am fully committed to physical presence and its future viability in terms of retail. Premium fashion will be available offline for decades to come. However, in terms of interchangeable store formats without individual character, I can imagine that they will eventually be replaced completely by online formats.” Peak, Petrovsky Boulevard 8/1, Moscow/Russia, www.traektoria.ru/peak
Community hub with room for self-development: Sergey Tanin launched Peak in Moscow in October together with Konstantin and Alexey Mikhailov.
Candy shop for outdoor connoisseurs: Peak presents a product range that is fed by Sergey Tanin’s long-standing relationships within the design scene.
style in progress
193
WHAT'S THE STORY
C o m m e rc e C e n t r e
Maison Borracci/Bari With Passion and Dedication… Photos: Maison Borracci
…and, above all, a great deal of entrepreneurial courage and perseverance, the brothers Pietro, Domenico, and Alessandro Borracci decided to open a second menswear store in the southern Italian town of Noicattaro in the Bari region last December. A brave decision in uncertain times. “The current situation has hit the fashion industry, the flagship of the Italian economy, hard. Who thinks of buying clothes while being asked to stay at home? We were left sitting on unsold goods and the fear of never being able to recoup the money. This compelled us to reinvent ourselves. To meet new needs after the pandemic, we launched an online shop that allows us to serve international customers,” says Domenico Borracci. His motto: “Communication via social media, as well as the growing trust of our customers, has allowed us to translate our doubts into new opportunities, including this new store.” Maison Borracci, Via Tommaso Fiore 10, Noicattaro/Italy, www.maisonborracci.com
Italian premium menswear as a family business: the three Borracci brothers Pietro, Domenico and Alessandro showed a great deal of courage by opening their new store.
Reduction as statement: Maison Borracci creates space for international premium sportswear.
194
style in progress
Creativity Optimism Joy People Local Friends Fashion Business Content Responsibility Vision Best Team Global Future Thinking Must Read Fun Information Curiosity Art Digital Personal THE Innovation Opinion Leader Creativity Optimism Joy People style Local Friends Fashion Business Content Responsibility Vision Best Team Global Future Thinking Must Read Fun Information Curiosity Art FUTURE Digital Personal Opinion Leader Creativity Innovation Optimism Joy People Local Friends Curiosity Fashion Business IS Content Responsibility Vision Best Team Global Future Thinking Must Read in Fun Information Art Digital Personal Innovation Opinion WIDE Leader Creativity Joy People Local Friends OPEN Fashion Business Content Responsibility Vision Optimism Best Tea Global Future Thinking Must Read Fun Information Curiosity progress Art Digital Personal Innovation Opinion Leader
THANKS TO ALL FOR MAKING IT HAPPEN...
www.style-in-progress.com www.facebook.com/styleinprogressonline/
WANT IT
The Gift of Delight
Unexpected qualities are the new standard. Today, any brand aspiring to establish itself in a product range needs an impressive offering. Simply delivering beautiful products isn’t enough.
Euterpe Studio. Euterpe, one of the nine muses of ancient Greek mythology, is known as “giver of delight”. This reflects what the new “Made in Italy” brand strives to achieve with its bags: to delight the bearer with beautiful designs at affordable prices. The collections by young designer Sofia Nardi are brimming with colours and shapes, made exclusively of certified calfskin of the highest quality. Nardi considers bags to be sustainable luxury goods that should not be sold at luxury prices. Is that possible? Sofia’s entrepreneurial spirit provides the answer. Yes, it is possible. Beautiful designer bags do not have to be overpriced. Euterpe Studio, Empoli/Italy, info@euterpestudio.com, www.euterpestudio.com
Uncompromising
Ina Kess. Loungewear, but luxurious: Swiss sports and lifestyle label Ina Kess focuses on the wearing comfort of high-quality materials, filling a gap in the market with timeless styles that also cut a good figure in a business environment. Elegant track pants are complemented with tops and sweats, as well as blouses and stretch blazers. The collection was launched in 2017 by sisters Katharina and Isabelle Staub. Today, the label offers four styles per year, manufactured in Europe and supplemented by a NOS programme. The sisters attach great importance to collaborative partnerships, and their consistent “no sales” concept has already convinced 50 retail customers across Europe, including Jelmoli, Globus, KaDeWe, Alsterhaus, and Rinascente Milan. Ina Kess, Wollerau/Switzerland, noelle@inakess.com, www.inakess.com
Berlin Dream
t7berlin. Larisa Pitkevich put all her eggs in one basket when she gave up a well-paid executive position at a large corporation to pursue her own vision. t7berlin combines European craftsmanship with sustainability to manufacture essentials with long-term relevance from natural yarns. A special feature is the use of STOLL-knit and wear® technology. This 3D technology allows knitting, shaping, and joining on a single machine, thus generating zero waste. In addition, short delivery routes reduce CO2 emissions. The brand plans to add silk and cashmere-silk knitwear to its range this year, with children‘s wear in the pipeline for 2022. Currently, t7berlin only offers selective retail partnerships upon request. Retail prices range from 89 to 259 Euros. t7berlin, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.176.627.32.803, lp@t7berlin.com, www.t7berlin.com, @t7berlin
196
style in progress
WANT IN
Scandinavian Essence
Project.AJ117. The
collection from Copenhagen delivers timeless everyday essentials that combine femininity with Scandinavian cool. “The label is the definition of slow fashion,” says Antonio Bautista, who represents Project. AJ117 in Germany. “I was immediately impressed, not least by the soft feel of the pieces.” Project.AJ117 was launched in 2011 by Charlotte Vadum. The focus is on manufacturing as environmentally friendly as possible, primarily in Europe. The team led by Vadum also wants to assume social responsibility, which is why the tie-dye styles are produced in an Indian factory that employs socially disadvantaged women. At a mark-up of 2.7, retail prices for dresses and jersey shirts range from 100 to 280 Euros and 69 to 109 Euros respectively. Project.AJ117, Frederiksberg/Denmark, info@project-aj117.com, www.project-aj117.com
Stay Cool
Yeti. Demanding
Bohemian Summer
Maison Hotel.
The style embodies summery lightness, featuring eclectic summer pieces that do not lack feminine romanticism. “Dresses, tops, and skirts with prints and artisanal tie-dye designs are particularly popular,” says Antonio Bautista, who represents Maison Hotel in the German market via his eponymous agency. “Besides, customers are enthusiastic about the consistent use of natural materials.” Maison Hotel was founded in 2013 by Sami Macias and Amrit Balani. Style is not the only aspect that makes the Spanish label’s items so desirable. The prices are equally impressive. At a mark-up of 2.7, retail prices for tops and dresses range from 45 to 75 Euros and 100 to 140 Euros respectively. Setter Trend SL, Madrid/Spain, amrit@maisonh.com, www.maisonh.com
outdoor enthusiasts swear by the robust coolers, cooler bags, and thermal containers by US brand Yeti. The solid handles and fasteners are designed to withstand any adventure: hunting, fishing, or camping in the wilderness. Depending on the model, the passive boxes, using cold packs or ice cubes, last for at least 48 to 72 hours without electricity. The collection comprises more than 50 models in at least three colours. Retail prices range from 24 to 699 Euros. Customers include Bstn Store, My Boys, Alike, and Super Store. So, whether you are planning your next road trip through Europe or a barbecue at the nearby lake, Yeti offers stylish equipment that keeps its promise of maintaining the coolness factor. Yeti UK Limited, London/United Kingdom, T 0044.808.1697080, help@yetieuropecustomerservices.com, www.yeti.com
style in progress
197
WANT IT
All About Pants
I love my pants. Designer Donata
Facchini launched her trousers label I love my pants in 2019. The Italian is a veritable expert on the subject, having designed for labels such as Monocrom. She is still involved in collection development for a number of major brands. Her models are intended for self-confident women who are looking for pants that are a little different. Each model features a cool detail that makes it unique. For the coming summer season, for example, the label offers pants with jewellery appliqués, colourful prints, fringes, fine embroidery, or fun patches – 100 percent “Made in Italy” of course. I love my pants, Fano/Italy, donata.facchini1@gmail.com, @i_love_my_pants
Luxurious Bikinis From Berlin
Fair Nibbles
Holy Shocolate.
Holy’s handmade chocolate not only surprises with completely new taste sensations and unusual flavour combinations, but also with the absence of industrial white sugar, animal fats, and milk. In short: only truly organic ingredients are used. The cocoa originates from a biosphere area in Nicaragua and is grown by small-scale farmers. To preserve nutrients, the cocoa is processed at low temperatures. This results in the chocolates containing three times as many antioxidants as green tea. The primary sweeteners are erythritol and coconut blossom sugar. The great advantage of erythritol is that it is not metabolised as glucose and therefore does not raise blood sugar levels, making it suitable for diabetics. Holy Shocolate, Munich/Germany, hello@holyshocolate.com, www.holyshocolate.com
198
style in progress
Janthee Berlin.
High-quality swimwear, exclusively manufactured in Europe, is what Janthee Berlin stands for. The collections are designed in Berlin and manufactured in Portugal using the finest Italian materials. Young entrepreneur Linda Hausser creates bikinis, swimming costumes, and beach accessories for women with style who love to travel, embrace life, and wish to impress on the beach. The young label, launched in 2016, has already attracted prestigious wearers such as Kendall Jenner. However, Hausser is dedicated to ensuring that Janthee Berlin flatters every silhouette. She focuses on a variety of styles, some adjustable, with a broad range of prints and colours: “It’s not about following a fashion trend, it’s about owning your own beautiful body.” Janthee Berlin, Berlin/Germany, linda.hausser@jantheeberlin.com, www.jantheeberlin.com
WANT IN
Slow You Roll
No Compromises
Arys. What initially began with multifunctional tracksuits has developed into a hotly traded insider tip: Arys represents modern, urban style, gender-fluid and rich in intrinsic values. The outerwear in particular – ethically and sustainably manufactured in Portugal, Lithuania, and China – is eye-catching without ever being overbearing. Minimalist design meets deliberately applied style accents such as floor-length coats or jackets with kimono belts. Founded in Berlin in 2014, the brand is stocked by key accounts such as Bungalow, Lodenfrey, Braun, and Beams. Retail prices range from 20 to 290 Euros. Arys, Potsdam/Germany, f.gerum@aryswear.com, www.aryswear.com
Manto. “Slow You Roll” is the mission statement of this masculine outerwear brand from Italy. Fashion should be manufactured and consumed with care and respect. That is why Manto relies on “fatto in Italia”, referring not only to “Made in Italy” as a geographical designation, but in particular to the know-how of the “artigiani”, who represent the craftsmanship and attention to detail that only a select group of textile workshops can provide. Manto collaborates with these “laboratori” to develop collections that are high-quality and timeless. Manto is convinced that only pieces that fit today and tomorrow are truly sustainable. A.B.T. srl, Mantua/Italy, info@mantoitaly.com, www.mantoitaly.com
New Luxury Denim
Purple Brand. People to whom Purple Brand needs to be explained are not the target group of the New York label. Born in the hip-hop/basketball/celebrity community, the brand has become part of its fans’ media reality via social media. Elaborately washed and finished jeans define the interface between streetwear and luxury. With retail prices reaching more than 400 Euros, the brand confidently claims a leading role among fashion and luxury connoisseurs. Komet und Helden is bringing the brand across the ocean this season. “We are looking forward to it. We believe in denim,” says agency founder Henrik Soller. Purple Brand, New York/US, info@purple-brand.com, www.purple-brand.com style in progress
199
WANT IT
By No Means Basic
aws twentyfourseven. The project aws twentyfourseven by Swiss Design Award winners After Work Studios can be described as really exciting, creative knitwear with a large regional and sustainable dimension. In close partnership with one of the last knitwear manufacturers in Switzerland, aws twentyfourseven creates a high-standard collection divided into three selections per season. GOTS and Bluesign certified yarns from northern Italy and the Lake Constance region are processed in Switzerland. aws twentyfourseven taps into the zeitgeist with its modern and unique character. aws twentyfourseven, Basel/Switzerland, office@aws247.ch, www.aws247.ch
Up and Away
The New “Made in Italy”
Distretto 12. With Distretto 12, the Hong brothers prove that second-generation Chinese families in Prato can do more than simply act as suppliers to big fashion brands. Over the past five years, the two brothers have created a menswear collection that has effortlessly positioned itself in the mid-price segment, not only in Italy but throughout Europe. The products, manufactured exclusively in Tuscany, are the perfect embodiment of what is known as “deconstructed formal”: plenty of jersey and knitwear, loose trouser styles, well-tailored shirts, and cool jackets. Distretto 12, Florence/Italy, info@distretto12.com, www.distretto12.com
200
style in progress
FPM. The acronym stands for Fabbrica Pelletteria Milano, a company established in 1946 that specialises in luggage, bags, and travel accessories. The collections comprise genuine design pieces: suitcases for the traveller who lives in the present and looks to the future. One of the brand’s star designers is Marc Sadler. His motto: “I travel, I think, I work. FPM is geared towards contemporary, itinerant travellers looking to reinvent their lifestyles in line with modern nomadism, aiming to remain in flux at all times.” Major e-commerce players such as Mr Porter and Matchesfashion already stock the brand. Now it’s time for a roll-out in the DACH region. FPM, Milan/Italy, federica.fremder@fpm.it, www.fpm.it
WANT IN
Performance Underwear
Made in Porto
Skenty. Breaking taboos and celebrating
the power of femininity are the guiding principles of Berlin-based start-up Skenty. Founded late 2020 by Mandie Bienek and Luiza Philipp alongside product and innovation designer Olivia Pflugfelder-Jünger, the label specialises in sustainable and fairly produced performance underwear for menstrual bleeding and bladder weakness. “We use an innovative technology for our ultra-thin, three-layer membrane that is unique and requires no plastic,” explains Pflugfelder-Jünger. The products, manufactured in Europe, are Oeko-Tex and PEF certified, and the absorbent core also bears the Bluesign certificate. The underwear is seamless, available in three styles and seven colours. For now, it is sold B2C via the label’s own website. Skenty, Berlin/Germany, support@skenty.com, www.skenty.com
Catarina Martins.
Launched in 2003, the Portuguese shoe brand Catarina Martins excels in modernity. The label offers boots with bulky soles, as well as iconic cowboy styles that feature its typical washed leather in all possible variations from sleek ankle boots with elastic to beautifully embroidered boots. Modeist, the fashion agency of Timothy Hoferer and Marion Hoferer, acts as sales representative in Germany and Austria. Retail prices for the shoes, which are handcrafted in the Porto region, reflect their premium segment positioning. Retailers can also order B2B. Catarina Martins, Leça do Balio/Portugal, commercial@u-summer.com, www.catarinamartins.com
Unconventional Cashmere
Brand Unique. A project of two business partners who complement each other perfectly: Andrea Meschiari and Sandro Poli launched their label Brand Unique in Carpi, the heart of Italy’s knitwear cluster. Their mission is to add a rock & roll vintage touch to cashmere. The women’s jumpers are washed, dyed, or embellished with gemstones to make them unique. The collection is conceived as a no-season project and inspires all age groups. Prins-Juric is the sales representative in Germany. With the backing of Gennai Srl’s full-scale production, Brand Unique offers absolute delivery reliability and a high level of professionalism. Brand Unique, Prato/Italy, fpini@brandunique.it, www.brandunique.it
style in progress
201
WANT IT
100 Years of Excellence
Not Just a Label
Backsideclub. The first Backsideclub collection was launched in 2019 by the Smania brothers from Venice. Alain and Gloe have been involved in design, architecture, and fashion since the late 1990s and founded Apache Farm, a creative hub on a former industrial site, in 2007. The idea is for people to come together and create something new. Writers, artists, designers, and musicians – everyone is welcome. Backsideclub is a product of Apache Farm. The collection blends Japanese classics with the street culture of the 1990s in New York and Los Angeles. It entails basics such as t-shirts, hoodies, trousers, and hats with striking prints in funky colours. The label also offers a limited skateboard line with a genuine “Back to the 90s” feel. Backsideclub, Stra/Italy, info@backsideclub.com, www.backsideclub.com
202
style in progress
Fedon 1919. So, such stories do still exist. Stories that recount the history of companies, family-run for generations, that managed to evolve from small workshops into world-renowned brands. In this case, the story involves the Fedon family, whose rise began in 1919 in Vallesella di Cadore near Belluno. Here, the young Federico crafted leather spectacle cases for the local eyewear industry. Before long, the range included all kinds of leather accessories for everyday use: bags, backpacks, wallets, stationery, and even suitcases. Fedon stepped up its expansion plans from 2008 onwards, with the result that it has grown into a company with 1,500 employees, three production sites, and exclusive points of sale such as Rinascente. Fedon 1919, Montebelluna/ Italy, fedon@dlpfashion.it, www.fedon.com
Travelling Soul
Genesis. The dresses and tunics are richly
embellished with exclusive prints, are manufactured fairly in Bali, and combine French flair for style with Balinese joie de vivre. The Genesis collection, founded in 2015, is the brainchild of Valérie and Andrea Thibault, a mother-daughter team from a third-generation family business in Cannes. The retail prices of the pieces, made of natural materials, range from 149 to 229 Euros, at a mark-up of 2.8. “I believe in the potential of Genesis, because the collection is both fashionable and accessible,” says Daniela Michaelis, whose eponymous agency represents Genesis in Austria and southern Germany. Northern Germany is covered by Norbert Gresch’s Hamburg-based fashion agency. The collection does not have its own web shop in order to support stationary boutiques. Genesis, Cannes/France, contact@collectiongenesis.com, www.collectiongenesis.com
WANT IN
No Chain, No Gain
Cuddly Friends
Phonie. Musician Leslie Clio
and entrepreneur Tim Lieser are on a mission. They strive to provide mobile phone cases and chains as true fashion accessories that do not harm the environment. The transparent mobile phone cases for all popular models come with a high-quality chain that can be detached and worn as a belt or necklace. The idea delights international retailers such as Urban Outfitters, La Rinascente, Printemps, and Baycrews. D-tails, the agency of Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, has been contracted to tighten up the sales network in the German-speaking countries. Phonie, Berlin/Germany, tim@phonie.shop, www.phonie.shop
8AM. The parcel courier ringing while one is brushing one’s teeth is no longer a problem thanks to 8AM, a collection lovingly created by Martina Zepplin and Thorsten Osterberger. The two have known each other since their fashion design studies. Martina is enjoying success with her brand Rau Berlin, while Thorsten works as a fashion and lifestyle editor. He launched Heyday Magazine, an online portal for the 45+ target group, in 2019. All 8AM pieces, such as a two-tone bathrobe, are made of organic cotton. To date, they are available via the Rau Berlin web shop. 8AM, Berlin/Germany, mail@rauberlin. com, www.8am.berlin
Cool Classics
Shoohs. It all started with ballerinas and loafers in 2014. Today, founder Bianca Kirchhof also offers sandals and pumps, as well as Chelsea and ankle boots. Some styles are classic, others more unconventional. The preferred material is soft goatskin in smooth, suede, or patent leather quality. All shoes are produced in Italian manufactories. Highlights of the season are pumps and sandals in leopard or zebra look, or in bright colours. “I was immediately impressed by the style and quality levels at retail prices ranging from 60 to 120 Euros,” says Niklas Rill, the brand’s representative in Germany and Austria. “I consider Shoohs to be an entry-level brand in the premium segment and an ideal complement to fashionable outfits.” Agentur Niklas Rill, Düsseldorf/Germany, mail@maend.de, www.shoohs.de
style in progress
203
FASHION
loud There have always been strongly opposed poles that create a playground for fashion by spanning a net between them. The net has, in fact, evolved into a matrix that is so intricately spun that one no longer even tries to delineate common clusters such as niche or mainstream, gender or genre, and home or office. The power that unfurls the vacuum for boundless creativity is fuelled by contrasts. Casual loungewear coincides with the resurgence of theatrically staged ready-to-wear drama. Depth and sustainability clash with exuberant eccentricity and loud colours. Fashion has regained its self-confidence and celebrates statements to that effect. Having an opinion about something is fashionable. Editor: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Brands
204
style in progress
FASHION
Contemporary Denim
Denim is back. Head-to-toe or accentuated, washed denim adopts the casual comfort of sweatpants and translates it into relaxed silhouettes. Denim has returned to the catwalk as a stylistic lifestyle element, making one of its rare appearances at Balenciaga, Chanel, or Chloé.
Henrik Vibskov
A.P.C.
Bowery NYC
Rag & Bone
Ba&sh
Marc O’Polo
Dondup
Marni
I dig denim
Strellson
Raffaello Rossi
Stetson
style in progress
205
FASHION
No Compromises
The name-dropping of prominent eco-certificates gives way to a probing glance behind the curtain. We see locally produced products, fair conditions throughout the product creation cycle, sustainable materials and processes, no overproduction, and revival programmes for pre-loved clothing. Fashion that refuses to compromise is the new glamour factor.
206
People of Shibuya
Bob
American Vintage
Ecoalf
Ko Samui
Peuterey
Copenhagen Studios
RRD
style in progress
FASHION
Dornschild
EasyBio
Beautiful Struggles
Esemplare
Hedoine
Save the Duck
Douie
Phil Petter
Fil Noir
Tom Ripley
Fabulous Island
Terra Luna
style in progress
207
FASHION
No More Drama in My Life
Categorising female customer groups into clusters such as Gen-Euphoria is a highly popular media pastime that fashion is happy to dismiss with a wry smile. What remains: the attitude, the unabashed self-image, and the un restrained search for feminine statements that are booming post-pandemic. Bold slogans, extreme colour excesses, theatrical draping, large volumes, romantic prints, asymmetrical cuts, and an honest search for identity are what the brutal zeitgeist is all about.
208
Gokay Gundogdu
Joseph
Liv Bergen
Jil Sander
Museum of fine clothing
Elaine Hersby
By Malene Birger
Marni
style in progress
FASHION
Özlem Süer
Alpha Studio
Judy Zhang
Drykorn
Sudi Etuz
Pride to be
Alexander McQueen
Manhattan Knights
Iris von Armin
Munthe
Sassenbach
Anna Galaganenko
style in progress
209
FASHION
Candy Crush
There is no superlative of colourful, says the dictionary. These colour excesses leave no room for gradation anyway. Candy shop colours, expressionist prints, and colour-to-colour combination scream everything that fashion was unable to whisper for so long. Look at me!
210
Colors of California
Distretto 12
Daddys Daughters
Avant Toi
Bananatime
Dondup
Bogner
Rag & Bone
style in progress
FASHION
Sportalm
Joop
Myths
White Sand
Parajumpers
C.P. Company
Luis Trenker
Seductive
Cividini
Amuse
Sold out
UGG
style in progress
211
FASHION
Gentlemen’s Cut
Diversity issues tempt us to demarcate boundaries, although the opposite is the objective. In fashion, the discrepancy has long been overcome via in-between looks, visible in casual silhouettes that no longer distinguish between the masculine and feminine. Large volumes and exaggeratedly staged details of classic tailoring yield exciting “aha” moments.
212
Second Female
Humility
Saritekin
Gant
Stetson
Drome
MM6 Maison Margiela
By Malene Birger
style in progress
FASHION
Jil Sander
Penn & Ink
Oakwood
Anna Galaganenko
Fassbender
Coster Copenhagen
Circolo 1901
Yaya
Tagliatore
Joop
Alexander McQueen
Sealup
style in progress
213
IN STORE
STORE FRONT Make It Personal
Lessons learned during lockdown and partial opening phases have been applied to everyday life. Personal shopping appointments have evolved from elite events to standard practice, in the best sense of the term. The only aspect that knows no standards is personality, because that is what actually matters.
TICKER For her fans, Nantia Persch is guru and stylist, influencer and icon.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Stores
Nantia Persch Das Atelier, Oberasbach
WELCOME TO THE CLUB!
“Take some time to let the happy hormones dance!” This is how Nantia Persch describes the concept of Das Atelier. She was a retailer in the classical sense for 25 years, until she decided to serve her clientele in an even more personal way three years ago. For this purpose, she transformed the ground floor of her home with garden into an oasis for those who wish to receive fashion advice and coaching by appointment like members of an exclusive club. Persch, who also offers retail coaching, knows exactly what her customers want. “I simply provide the impetus needed to ensure women feel more self-confident in their appearance,” says Persch, who also advises many younger women who strive to raise their profile at work. Fashion by the likes of Lanius, Raffaeladangelo, and Camicettasnob can help in this respect. Incidentally, there are no clearance sales, because unsold pieces are turned into new, unique items with the help of a seamstress. These delight customers all the more.
Samt & Bsonders, Penzberg
SHOPPING CAMPER
A clever idea: some of Doris Mühlfeldner’s customers arrive for a fitting in a camper van.
214
style in progress
What is the most unusual fitting room when trying on clothes in stores is not an option? Surely, it has to be a camper van on the doorstep. “The idea came from a customer who arrived in her camper van to try on clothes in peace,” says Doris Mühlfeldner. This example set a precedent, but now the experience includes snacks and drinks. Mühlfeldner has been committed to sustainable fashion for 20 years. “The heart and soul I put into the business over the years is now being repaid in full.”
IN STORE
Männersache, Lippstadt
ONE MAN SHOW
Window shopping, as a bicycle courier, or via video call: Tim Pagenkemper and his customers always find a way to interact. “I stock niche labels for fashionable men that you cannot find just anywhere, for instance Blue de Gênes and Bowery NYC,” says Pagenkemper. This may have attracted online customers nationwide, but he still prefers to sell in his store. “The look needs to be self-evident and self-explanatory. The story behind the product is often the deciding factor.”
Sonja Langhoff strikes a chord with her customers.
Tim Pagenkemper of Männersache is passionate about serving his customers.
So‘La Concepts, Ismaning
DREAM WORLD
Both on Instagram and in-store, So’La Concepts creates individual worlds. Opened in 2019, the store featuring interiors, fashion, and a café has expanded its reach thanks to evocative Insta posts. “Customers now come from further afield, because they are curious about the store,” says Sonja Langhoff. The range includes playful items by Maison Hotel and Scandinavian fashion by Project AJ 117. “Some people almost exclusively buy from me, because I always surprise them with something new.”
Lateral entrant Sylke Brinkmann has found her dream job.
Traudichrein, Troisdorf
COME IN!
The name says it all. Traudichrein is run by women who are, like Sylke Brinkmann, lateral entrants with heart, soul, and passion. “Every staff member is special and fully identifies with my store,” gushes Brinkmann. She most enjoys selling innovative items by Funky Stuff and Elias Rumelis. Her service extra: “I test every fit for my customers and document it in videos or on photos.” This is how she attracts fans who swear by Traudichrein and its team.
style in progress
215
IN STORE
EMANCIPATION FROM THE PHYSICAL A store remains a store, even when its doors are closed. The first year of the global pandemic has rendered all physical boundaries obsolete. What counts are ideas and passion, no longer merely location and product range. Owners who have found their vocation in the most wonderful job in the world are spearheading disruptive change. They are the reason why brick-and-mortar stores have a glorious future. Text: Stefanie Buchacher, Janaina Engelmann-Brothanék, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Nicoletta Schaper, Veronika Zangl
216
style in progress
IN STORE
Cosy and inspiring: Dresscode by Martina Schormann aims to make everyone feel at home.
DRESSCODE BY MARTINA SCHORMANN • DETMOLD
THE HUMAN ELEMENT IS ESSENTIAL
Photos: Dresscode by Martina Schormann
M
artina Schormann recently launched Dresscode’s online shop, with technical support provided by her young colleague Judith Forster. “It felt like a mini IPO for me, I‘m still brimming with adrenaline,” Schormann laughs. “The popularity of the online shop is incredibly inspiring. I learn something new every single day.” Schormann plunged into self-employment with her own boutique 13 years ago, enjoying mounting success ever since. “I suspect the reason is that I enjoy cultivating customer loyalty,” muses the Detmold native. She determines the approach within her small team, but, other than that, each staff member is free to express themselves. She demands the highest standards of herself, always contemplating new ways to inspire. This is what turns staff and customers into real fans. “We invite everyone to experience the feel-good atmosphere of our store, offering a delicious beverage and individual advice,” says Schormann. “We treat everyone as a regular customer.” Her product range is primarily wearable and for everyday use. The looks are meant to suit many occasions. The feminine is given a casual twist: a pair of 10Days pants combined with a non-iron Janice & Jo blouse, or a playful Tonno & Panna dress combined with an FTC cashmere jacket and Copenhagen sneakers. “We also enjoy surprising our customers with small, new brands. These days, however, I believe it is more important than ever to find companies willing to collaborate with us on equal terms. The human element is essential.” At the latest since last year, Schormann’s human interaction is no longer limited to the store. She writes a charming message to a WhatsApp group of her regulars every morning and regularly posts on Instagram. “Tina, my day starts with you,” a customer recently told her. “The feedback and appreciation we receive on all channels is unbelievable. I am really touched by it.”
Dresscode by Martina Schormann Unter der Wehme 12, Detmold/Germany www.dresscode-detmold.de Opening: August 2008 Owner: Martina Schormann Employees: 4 Sales area: 100 sqm Brands: among others AGL, Articles of Society, Colmar, Copenhagen Studios, Drykorn, 10Days, Espadrij, Eva Mann, Fil Noir, FTC, iheart, Ilona von Preuschen, IQ Studio, Janice & Jo, Penn & Ink N.Y, Pur Schoen, Tonno & Panna
Martina Schormann (left), Simone Walter, Corinna Landwehr, and Pepper the dog are team players.
style in progress
217
IN STORE
SHOWTIME!
One adores creative chaos, while the other carefully steadies the ship. Sisters Sophie Lubenau and Stephanie Erhard form the perfect entrepreneurial duo for their three stores.
Erhard Fashion (right) combines with Erhard Casual and Erhard Schuhe (below) to form a coherent overall concept.
“We received 80 orders the very next day,” says Stephanie Erhard. “They have kept on pouring in ever since.” Personal service is now also provided online. Anyone who orders is called back to determine the size of the ordered item as accurately as possible. “That is why our return rate is lower than 20 percent.” THE HISTORY OF MODE Erhard began in 1875 with a shoe workshop. Today, the retail business, established by Max Erhard and his wife Erika, manages three stores in Prien. Erhard Fashion stocks Etro, Jil Sander, Allude, and Incentive Cashmere. Erhard Casual offers more relaxed pieces by the likes of Closed, Mason’s, and Save the Duck. As a unifying element, the adjacent shoe shop offers brands such as Tod’s, Hogan, Hidnander, Pretty Ballerina, and Paoli Firenze. Besides all administrative matters, footwear is Stephanie Erhard’s passion and responsibility. Sophie Lubenau, on the other hand, is in charge of social media and acts as fashion buyer alongside her mother. Be it in the store or in live videos, the sisters’ personal touch always feels authentic. “We are intuitive in our approach,” Sophie Lubenau emphasises. “Everything we do dovetails perfectly,” adds Stephanie Erhard. “I have the feeling that we are closer than ever now.”
Erhard Schuh und Mode GmbH Hochriesstrasse 14, Prien am Chiemsee/Germany www.erhard-prien.com Opening: 1875 Owners: Elke Erhard, Sophie Lubenau, Stephanie Erhard Sales area (total): 1,000 sqm Brands: among others Allude, Aspesi, Bacon, Closed, Corvari, Etro, Faliero Sarti, Herno, Hidnander, Incentive Cashmere, Johnny Was, Mason’s, Philippe Model, Samantha Sung, Save the Duck, Tod’s, Ugg
218
style in progress
Photos: Erhard Schuh und Mode
ERHARD SCHUH UND MODE • PRIEN AM CHIEMSEE
“W
e are going live on Instagram with our product range on Sunday.” – “Hang on, we are doing what?” This is how Sophie Lubenau and Stephanie Erhard describe a conversation they had last December, shortly before deciding to get cracking with live shopping videos. The sisters, who run the family business together with their mother Elke Erhard, have been busy ever since. “On Instagram, you need to step up and tell people a story. Customers demand positivity and entertainment,” says Sophie Lubenau. “They want to see the owners and experience their struggle. I believe that aspect has become a vital factor.” The resulting 7,000 subscribers prove her right. A boost provided by a TV report on ARD Brisant certainly did not harm either.
IN STORE
Fifth generation: Sophie Lubenau and Stephanie Erhard create positive vibes, both online and in the store.
style in progress
219
IN STORE
Wait and See embodies fashion and lifestyle from all over the world at reasonable prices: cosmopolitan, colourful, and cheerful.
WAIT AND SEE • MILAN
COLOUR EQUALS LIFE
Owner Uberta Zambeletti personifies the typical Wait and See look perfectly: on point and never boring.
220
style in progress
Wait and See Via Santa Marta 14, Milan/Italy, www.waitandsee.it, IG: @waitandseemilano Opening: 2010, Owner: Uberta Zambeletti, Sales area: 65 sqm Brands: among others Anonyme, Antik Batik, Chloe Stora, Kiltie, Laurence Bras, Manoush, Niu, Pitch, Phisique Du Role, Rodebjer, Sartoria Vico
Photos: Wait and See
U
pon entering Uberta Zambeletti’s realm in Milan, it becomes very difficult to “wait and see” as the concept store’s name suggests. Colour and vitality prevail everywhere you look, as well as fashion that really encourages customers to try new things and maybe even reinvent themselves. The store in the charming “5 Vie” district in the centre of the Italian fashion capital is truly unique. The concept for her one-of-a-kind business in Milan emerged in 2010. Zambeletti realised that there was no store in Milan that offered the right balance of high street and premium brands. Hence, she decided to combine her many years of experience gained with brands such as Missoni, Max Mara, Pinko, and Rinascente with her own personal taste. The declared goal is to bring together special brands from all over the world with plenty of uniqueness at reasonable prices. The product range is mainly geared towards women and, besides clothing, also includes accessories, bijoux, design, stationery, and vintage pieces. It is a treasure trove of items from all around the world. To name but a few places of origin: Italy, England, France, Finland, and California. Wait and See resembles a walk-in kaleidoscope: a wide variety of products that are wonderfully different and yet tell a shared story. This means they complement the mercurial entrepreneur‘s life motto perfectly: “La vita è bella – life is beautiful!” Zambeletti is convinced one should dress accordingly. The stylish owner treats her community to regular edits, which she calls Uberta’s Pick: total looks featuring pieces from the shop, which Zambeletti regularly shares in a charming manner on social media and the website. By then, at the latest, it is impossible to merely “wait and see”.
IN STORE
THIEL’S BY DANIEL THIEL • WIESBADEN
SECOND BASE
A
fter opening a second store in spring 2021, so in the middle of a lockdown, Daniel Thiel no longer needs to prove that he is someone who puts his money where his mouth is. Instead of lamenting the injustice of the closures that have lasted for more than a year, he has courageously seized opportunities. His latest store, located in the heart of Wiesbaden’s city centre, is dedicated to a somewhat younger target group. “When the name Daniel Thiel appeared on a second commercial property in Wiesbaden, many thought I had been forced to give up my concept store in ‘Wilhelmstrasse’ and move. Having to explain that I am opening a second location created a twofold surprise effect.” What is different about the second location? “Daniel Thiel Wiesbaden is the gourmet restaurant, Thiel’s by Daniel Thiel the complementary bistro. Naturally, we want our customers to feel like valued guests in both stores.” Brands such as Dondup, Polo Ralph Lauren, and Steffen Schraut are afforded centre stage at Thiel’s, leaving more space for menswear in general in the concept store. The focus is also on shoes and bags. Daniel Thiel is currently merely utilising one of two floors. “I have many ideas for the upper floor. I find Click & Collect and Meet Phase particularly inspiring. For a high-end retailer like me, this could constitute an ideal scenario. One should probably rent a beautiful flat in an historic building as a private showroom with individual appointments,” he laughs. If you know Daniel Thiel, you know his ideas turn into projects in the blink of an eye. The fashion entrepreneur has found and reinvented himself in self-employment. “It was the best decision of my life,” he muses. “However, Thiel’s is only possible because I found a highly capable understudy who represents the new target group perfectly. I plan to remain fully focused on my clientele in the Daniel Thiel concept store.” Exactly like in the primary shop, a sizable percentage of the Thiel’s product range is also marketed and sold online. “That is, simply put, part of the game now.”
Source of happiness: Daniel Thiel is truly passionate about his chosen profession.
Photos: Thiel’s by Daniel Thiel
The follow-up: Thiel’s by Daniel Thiel focuses on a new target group.
Thiel’s by Daniel Thiel Karl-Glässing-Strasse 5, Wiesbaden/Germany www.danielthiel-wiesbaden.de Opening: 6th of April 2021 Owner: Daniel Thiel Sales area: 140 sqm Brands: Dondup, Polo Ralph Lauren, Steffen Schraut
style in progress
221
IN STORE
SELENDI-GANGART • WELS
SHE LOVES WHAT SHE DOES
B
222
style in progress
Standstill is not an option for Belinda Selendi, she would rather continue to evolve herself and her store concept.
Selendi – Gangart stocks everything for the perfect outfit, as well as home accessories for the perfect home.
Selendi – Gangart Ringstrasse 30, Wels/Austria, www.selendi-die-mode.at, Opening: April 1985, Owner: Belinda Selendi, Sales area: 240 sqm Brands: Grace, High, Kristensen du Nord, M Missoni, Mother, Transit Par Such, Twinset, Yippie Hippie
Photos: Selendi-Gangart
elinda Selendi and her friend Nicole Holzhey decided to join forces in September 2020 by combining their neighbouring shoe and fashion stores into one space. “My friend actually wanted to give up her shoe store during the first lockdown, but then we both came up with the idea of merging two shops into one,” says Selendi. “Now everything blends seamlessly, allowing customers to browse fashion, footwear, accessories, and home décor. We also gained a large area for events.” The Austrian has been a passionate retailer for 36 years – no hollow phrase in her case. “I love what I do, so that says it all really,” smiles Selendi. She inspires her customers with new looks on Instagram and Facebook, but what she and her dedicated team enjoy most is providing guidance live in the store. “Many customers have turned into good friends. We even welcome their grown-up daughters now.” Selendi describes her store as a haven of comfort, and the fashion on display should always reflect that. Transit Par Such, a small artisanal label from Italy, and Kristensen du Nord offer casual, timeless styles alongside more bohemian looks by Yippie Hippie or expressive designs by M Missoni. “We combine the looks in our own distinctive way,” says Selendi. She herself is known for favouring black, but the current environment requires a little colour to convey a certain level of ease. The message is well received, not least because every visitor of Selendi – Gangart can look forward to having a great time. This is probably one of the many reasons why personal shopping appointments have become so popular. “It allows us to offer our customers the full range of services, and we are very happy to do so.”
IN STORE
First foray into the countryside: Apropos The Concept Store in Gmund on Lake Tegernsee reflects the fact that an increasing number of people are seeking luxurious country escapes.
“The last year has elevated shopping by appointment to the norm. A selection of products tailored to my needs, undivided attention, as well as styling and advice – all this is possible in pre-arranged appointments. Sounds like the perfect ‘me time’ to us,” argue Klaus Ritzenhöfer, Daniel Riedo, and Henning Korb of Apropos The Concept Store.
APROPOS THE CONCEPT STORET • TEGERNSEE & COLOGNE
DESTINATION STORE
Photos: Apropos The Concept Store, Annika Feuss
G
oing a step further seems to have become second nature for Klaus Ritzenhöfer, Daniel Riedo, and Henning Korb, the trio behind Apropos The Concept Store. In December 2020, they opened a 420-square-metre branch in Gmund am Tegernsee. “Lake Tegernsee is a magical place where we spend a lot of our time. We enjoy the relaxed nature of the people in the valley. The decision to open a store on Lake Tegernsee reflects the changing circumstances of life. An increasing number of people are working from home, meaning they have the option of living outside the cities. The city centres are becoming car-free and more difficult to reach. A weekend trip to Mallorca is currently only possible under certain conditions or is even deemed inappropriate. Tourism is becoming more regional. These aspects have made resort destinations like Tegernsee interesting for the luxury brands we work with, as well as for us,” explain the owners. There is also news to report from Cologne as of mid-July. The former Strenesse shop next to the famous pink entrance on “Mittelstrasse” is about to be transformed into a 300-square-metre shoe area that offers customers direct access to the inner courtyard. Just under a third of the retail space is reserved for a new café. “Lacey’s Patisserie” serves modern French cuisine, as well as Ladurée delicacies alongside breakfast and brunch options – on fine days on the terrace in the aforementioned courtyard. The space freed up in the original shop is to be replaced by an even larger interior and home section. Ritzenhöfer: “In a year like this, we want to set a positive example.” One thing is clear: “The current situation has certainly highlighted the sociological aspect of shopping and shows how important and satisfying the experience revolving around the purchase is. Recognition, compliments, companionship, interaction, a sense of well-being… a click on the ‘add to cart’ button and receiving a parcel cannot compensate for any of those aspects. In that sense, in-store shopping is the ultimate manifestation of luxury.”
Apropos The Concept Space Mittelstrasse 12, Cologne/Germany Opening of expansion: July 2021 Sales area: 300 sqm Shoe brands: Bottega Veneta, Christian Louboutin, Dior, Gianvito Rossi, Manolo Blahnik, Tod’s Apropos The Concept Store Münchner Strasse 126, Gmund/Germany Opening: December 2020 Sales area: 400 sqm Brands: among others Balenciaga, Celine, Christian Louboutin, Moncler
style in progress
223
EDITOR’S LETTER
The Magic of the Human Touch 25 years ago, in the summer of 1996, the first issue of x-ray was published, laying the foundation for style in progress as we know it today. I’m not really the type to celebrate anniversaries, but one or two thoughts do pop into my head when I look back – while simultaneously looking to the future. First of all, I had to laugh out loud when I saw that I, in this first magazine of my own, was seriously holding a cigarette in my portrait photo. And hey, that really shouldn’t be understood as an example of how “everything was better in the past”. Things may have been simpler, less driven by thought, in some respects perhaps more carefree… but, above all, the past is just the past. Nostalgia should never cloud our perspective. Now, in the summer of 2021, following a year in which one could either fail or grow, my love for this industry is deeper than ever, as dramatic as that may sound. Firstly, and perhaps most importantly, because I have enjoyed the privilege of meeting so many really wonderful people over the years – from all kinds of cultures and backgrounds. Fashion has, in its own special way and beyond the superficial, always been diverse. I’ve met an abundance of talent, so much enthusiasm – so many people from whom I could learn. I sincerely hope that I was able to return the favour at times. On the other hand, I am experiencing the current transformation as by far the most exciting time in terms of content since I, rather by chance (or maybe not?), started writing about fashion and the fashion business. And content, meaning everything beyond the horizon of seasonal trends or monthly sales, is what drives me and my fantastic style in progress team. We strive to shape, not merely report. Daniel Grieder is someone I have, in fact, known for longer than 25 years. The fact that our friendship has endured over such a long time emphatically reinforces what I have just written. As a Swiss citizen, he hails from a culture that is indeed almost exotic. They even have a functioning railway network over there!!! Consequently, conducting the cover interview for this issue with him on the occasion of his eagerly awaited start
ABOUT US
Publisher, Editorial Office, Advertising Department and Owner style in progress B2B Media GmbH Lasserstraße 13, 5020 Salzburg, Austria T +43 664 3583488 info@style-in-progress.com www.style-in-progress.com facebook.com/styleinprogressonline Management Stephan Huber
224
style in progress
Editors-In-Chief Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com Martina Müllner-Seybold martina@style-in-progress.com Editorial Staff Stefanie Buchacher Petrina Engelke Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek Isabel Faiss Kay Alexander Plonka Nicoletta Schaper Veronika Zangl Art Direction, Design, Production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@style-in-progress.com
as “Boss of Boss” was a very personal experience for me. I’d like to single out one statement, because it sums up what is at stake at this turning point in time in eight words: “If you prevent innovation, you prevent the future.” Please bear with me as I share another, slightly longer quote from this issue of style in progress. Holli Rogers, who is remarkably proficient at combining vision and business, said the following while discussing Browns Fashion’s ground-breaking new flagship store in London: “We all love fashion and get into it for the product, and I think people have been excited to be able to touch, feel, and try on the product again – most importantly they are looking for that element of discovery. We know that our customers were missing that personal interaction with their sales associates in real life, and that they were really keen to engage with them on what is newly in and what we are backing.” The magic of the human touch simply cannot be replaced, not even – or even less so – in the bright future of fashion. Without modesty, I would like to briefly mention for whom this conviction has been, is, and remains the core value of its brand – even after 25 years. Exactly! Yours truly, Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com
Advertising Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com Advertising Representatives Berlin: Kay Alexander Plonka kay@style-in-progress.com Italy: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek janaina@style-in-progress.com
Image Editor Johannes Hemetsberger English Translations Manfred Thurner Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Austria
Accounting Verena Wigoutschnig verena@style-in-progress.com
Printing Coordinator Manfred Reitenbach
Online Editor/Newsletter Veronika Zangl veronika@style-in-progress.com
Next Issue 22 January 2022
FASHION IS MORE THAN JUST LOOKING GOOD.
PIONEERS IN SUSTAINABLE FASHION Deluxe Distribution, Germany
Room with a view, Austria
Eins Zwei Zwei Eins, Switzerland
