Delicious No: 18 by Union Print

A Different Summer

DELICIOUS PAUL PAIRET THE LOGIC OF ESSENTIALISIM

MARVIN GAUCI

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ENFANT TERRIBLE

JOAN ROCA

A MASTER OF BALANCE

Henry F. Bouverie Street Il-GÅ¼ira GZR 1224 Tel: 2016 5109

C OC K H NC U L BREAKF AST - BRUNC H

TAIL HOUR - DINNER

4p m t o 7 p m Y L I A D R COC KTAIL HOU M R I E H E L - SDLELICIOUS IEMA August 2020

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ASummeR Different

hese are unprecedented times. It seems like the whole world has been brought to its knees with the rapid and destructive spread of COVID-19 .The food industry is not exempt. The global

COVID-19 pandemic has forced many Michelin restaurants to terminate business, lose money, or even close down. Forced off the “altar,” Michelin restaurants are looking for a recovery or makeover. As the COVID-19 pandemic spread around the world, a number of public places were forced to close. And the first to be influenced is very sensitive to the customer flow of the catering industry. In the US alone, over 16,000 restau-

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rants premanently closed since COVID-19 surfaced. Leading restaurants

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has spared no mercy either on the local food industry. Every component

Editor: Omar Vella delicious@unionprint.com.mt

of the food chain is facing challenging times. The farmer in the nearby

Proof Reading: Mark Schembri Ramona Marie Vella Cini

across the globe including Eleven Madison Park, may not reopen. David Chang’s Momofuku restaurant group recently announced the closure of two of their restaurants in New York and Washington, D.C. COVID-19

field, the restauranteur down the road, the waiter in the coffee shop close by and the chef in our favourite restaurant have all been hit in one way or another. We are slowly moving back to normality yet the impact of the pandemic

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will not be brushed away easily. We have a mountain to climb yet I be-

Front image: Courtesy of Letizia Vella

time. Certainly many operators will never re-open their restaurants, but

Index image: Courtesy of Manouche Photos: We thank all contributers for providing photos and images.

lieve there is light at the end of the tunnel. I am convinced the global restaurant industry will not just survive but thrive. It is only a matter of others will take their place Summer will be a critical time for many to think and revisit their approach in the industry. It will be a time to create a more rational and better future.

Recipes:

This will also be a different summer without Elia Borg Bonaci, of Elia

We thank all contributers for the recipes provided

Caterers who sadly passed away earlier in May. A true gentleman and

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of his life. The place will never be the same without him. It will also

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true professional who will be deeply missed by his family, friends and

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a leading figure at the cafeteria in Hamrun where he spent a good part be different without Sam Sammut who passed away a few days ago. A colleagues. I wish you all a pleasant summer and remember to stay safe!

While we make every effort to make sure that the content of Delicious is correct, we cannot take any responsibility nor be held accountable for any factual errors printed.

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Courtesy of Manouche

INDEX 08 Paul Pairet 14 The Michelin Guide 22 Commando 30 Bahia 46 Jonnie & Thérèse Boer 56 Joan Roca 62 Sunday in Scotland 66 Barbajean 70 Andre Borg 78 Joseph Spiteri 92 Andrew Vella 96 Carl Zahra 106 Derek Vassallo 110 Marvin Gauci The Logic of Essentials Here’s Why

In Pursuit of Perfection Summer Blues

Great Expectations

A Master of Balance Something New

Food Indulgence

Down by the Harbour From the Source

A Master of Taste A Bigger Fork

The Story Behind the Brand L’enfant Terrible

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THE

LOGIC OF

ESSENTIALISM Interview with

PAUL PAIRET, Ultraviolet

t is by no coincidence that French chef, Paul Pairet is regarded as one of the best talents in the current

global food industry. He is a true visionary with an impeccable skill to take food to another level. Chef Pairet worked in kitchens all over the world before settling in Shanghai, where he now runs three restaurants: the irreverent bistro Mr and Mrs Bund, the meat-centric The Chop Chop Club and the highly acclaimed and highly secretive Ultraviolet. Chef Pairet shared with us his interpretation of essentialism, the essence of Ultraviolet and his plans for the future.

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To whom did you look up to in your early steps in the food industry? Joël Robuchon for his precision and perfectionism. Jacques Maximin, Michel Trama, and Alain Senderens for their creativity, and, at a later stage, Alain Ducasse for his philosophy.

In a recent interview you noted; “passion is the key to succeeding in this industry, but passion must be actively nurtured and allowed to develop.” Can you elaborate? Working in this industry is a hard work. Many people join this industry because of their passion; many quit because of the frustrations from the challenges and difficulties along the years, which eventually overtake their passion. I think the stamina is important, the mental stamina, the capacity to carry on with a project. And ultimately this can be sustained only by a passion that you nurture. You nurture

FAILURE IS A GREAT PARAMETER FOR SUCCESS; IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHEN YOU FAIL, YOU CAN’T KNOW WHEN YOU SUCCEED.

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the passion. It’s not something that is a natural everyday passion, sometimes you need to step back and remember why you are doing that trade. It’s a bit like when you are with somebody, you can always look at the other girls, there are always some beautiful girls around, but sometimes you need to remember why you are with somebody. It’s the same for cooking, you need to evaluate it a bit like a love story. Why do I still love cooking? The day I will have enough, I will probably quit. You need to maintain that passion, to actively maintain it.

How do you see the world with the “baby’s eye”? I approach cooking, ingredients, techniques, textures and flavours with an equal lack of prejudice and unbiased opinion without regard for national boundaries or ‘class’ devoid of context, and reputation. I taste something as if it was being tasted for the first time, and perceiving without discrimination. A canned sardine is not a lesser sardine than a fresh one, but simply a different product. Likewise, foie gras is not intrinsically more suited to fine dining than a piece of bread, or a truffle more interesting than the Coca Cola.

In what way do mistakes help you develop into a better person? I don’t know if mistakes made me a better person. Nevertheless, I do know mistakes and failures can lead you into more depth in discovery of cooking and kitchen. Failure is a great parameter for success; if you don’t know when you fail, you can’t know when you succeed.

What lessons did you learn during your time in Australia? I experienced the horizontal mix and fusion of different cultures of cuisine. I also learnt the importance of simplicity. The great lesson from Australia came from a lady who will never probably know how much she influenced me. I didn’t even understand exactly what she was saying at the time. That was Gay Bilson. She is a bit of an icon of Australian cooking. She was an old lady when I was lucky enough to meet her. I had still my vision, my Hong Kong vision of my “restaurant du France”, and I was still dotting the plates a bit Robuchon-style, but it was not really creation, it was just a pile of all the knowledge I had. She was trying to explain to me the sense of being natural, and the fact that of course you can have an idea but you still need to express something that is good, and, for this, you need to make it as simple as can be. That’s the summary of what she said.

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BEING HONEST IN THIS INDUSTRY, WHICH MEANS GOOD VALUE FOR MONEY, YOU HAVE TO GIVE MORE THAN YOU RECEIVE. THAT IS THE REALITY OF THIS JOB. Why do you feel that the money, the time, and the energy required to make a restaurant is something of another time? In what way is Ultraviolet the culmination of a twodecade long dream? Ultraviolet is the crystallization of all my experience, through a single project. It’s the project of my life. It’s everything I believe in, with flawless execution on par with the concept. Ultraviolet is a crystallization of all the mistakes I’ve done, all the goals that I had in mind. It’s a crystallization of my travels, my errands, from being in France, getting lost in Hong Kong, going to Australia, passing by Indonesia, coming back to Paris to end up in Istanbul. All those things combined could add up to what defines me as a global chef, a global traveler, yes, French spine, but definitely openminded

Tell us about your decoded Menu. Ultraviolet offers three different menus on different dates, each priced the same and labelled UVA, UVB and UVC. Highlights include Tomato Mozza And Again, where two versions of the same dish are served side by side – one sweet, one savoury – and Foie Gras Can’t Quit, an edible cigarette made from crisp red fruit skin, filled with foie gras mousse and served in an ash tray sprinkled with cabbage ash.

It’s not on par with the society of today. You need patience, you need very secure investments, you need a lot of things. Not to say there is not a commercial project that can work straight away, a pizzeria maybe, but the effort to open most places is immense. Being honest in this industry, which means good value for money, you have to give more than you receive. That is the reality of this job, which makes it a beautiful job! That’s one of the things that makes this job a job of another time.

What does essentialism mean to you? It is to express clearly the concentration of an idea, without adding anything unrelated to the focus of that idea, without compensation. A dish is ready when there is nothing left to add or take away. A dish could be: interesting, new, daring — perhaps shocking — beautiful, maybe comforting, even funny, but always good.

What’s next for you? COVID-19 has affected my future plans to such an extent that I had to go back to the drawing. Priority is given to the current situation the world is experiencing and any plans we had in mind had to be suspended or modified. Our focus is to make sure we survive this crisis caused by the pandemic.

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THE MICHELIN GUIDE IS A BIG DEAL FOR MALTA. HEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S WHY by Ivan Brincat

VALLETTA: The news that Malta has three one Michelin star restaurants will change the gastronomy landscape on this small Mediterranean island for ever. This is a big deal for Malta and its culinary sphere. Whether you love or hate Michelin and what it stands for, there is no question that to date this remains the most authoritative guide for restaurants worldwide. Before Michelin, there was one restaurant guide in Malta but this was survey driven and therefore did not carry the weight that Michelin or any of the other established world guides has. Restaurants, chefs and owners were more focused on getting a high ranking on Tripadvisor, also important, but by no stretch of imagination as important in terms of driving food enthusiasts to the island. Malta relies heavily on tourism and food over the past years has become a very important driver of tourism destinations. There are many people who centre their travel experience around food experiences worldwide and competition for this

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market is becoming more and more intense. Michelin will help Maltese restaurants, owners and chefs to work towards a new benchmark. That benchmark is quality whether it comes to produce, technique, service or wine. Today, that benchmark in Malta has been set by De Mondion in Mdina and Noni and Under Grain in Valletta who all have 1 Michelin star. 3 other restaurants got a Bib Gourmand. The latter, maybe less known in Malta is a restaurant that serves quality food and a good value (the ability to order a two-course meal or a menu and a glass of wine or dessert for less than around EUR 40). 20 other restaurants got a mention in the guide. There are two sides to the coin and one can look at the glass either as half full or half empty. Having three restaurants awarded with a Michelin star is of course a very important step in the right direction though having only three restaurants that get a Bib Gourmand could

be considered a slap in the face for quality/price ratio in restaurants around the island. That can be rectified next year if some restaurants adjust their business model to include the ‘menu’ of the day as happens in many other restaurants around the world. The 20 restaurants that have been mentioned in the guide have the possibility to up their game and to decide in which direction to take their restaurant. What is sure at this stage is that Malta is very far from having a restaurant that is capable of attaining a second Michelin star, let alone a third. Without wanting to downplay the achievements of the three restaurants that clinched their first Michelin star because they have made history, one can safely say that the journey for them starts now. A Michelin star is not a given, the restaurant will at the very least need to retain the same quality from the previous year if it is to retain its star. There will be some who will want to aim higher because Michelin also awards restaurants with 2 Michelin stars and with 3 Michelin stars. But these stars are considerably harder to attain and can prove to be elusive for many years. What is sure at this stage is that Malta is very far from having a restaurant that is capable of attaining a second Michelin star, let alone a third. First, it is extremely rare for restaurants to go from one to two Michelin stars in quick succession. Second, there are many restaurants in the world including some that feature very highly on the World’s 50 Best list that are stuck at 2 Michelin stars. Noma is maybe the most famous of them but you need to remember that even Mauro Colagreco’s, currently No 1 on the list only attained three Michelin stars last year despite featuring highly in the World’s 50 Best restaurants list for successive years. There have been exceptions. The highly acclaimed The Alchemist got two stars within the space of a few months but apart from the fact that this is a multi-million investment, it is the exception rather than the rule. For Malta, the arrival of Michelin presents restaurants and chefs with a huge opportunity to shape things in a different direction to what exists today. What this is likely to mean for the three restaurants that have attained a star is more bookings in advance and also a more international crowd. It also means that the expectations are going to be higher

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and therefore the margin of error becomes narrower. What it also means is that the teams of the restaurants in question will need to put everything into question. If they want to evolve, they will need to think very carefully about the creative process, about finding a balance between signature dishes and dishes that are new. It also means that they must work on building a narrative and a story.

This may not come cheap but it is not only essential but necessary if the whole culinary scene on the island is to improve. There are of course choices that can be made. There are other countries and regions around the world which focus purely on top quality ingredients that are imported from all corners of the world. But that we believe is an outdated trend and one that is not likely to age very well.

One thing that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve often heard in conversation with Maltese chefs is the difficulty to source local produce, including high quality eggs, fish, meat and more importantly vegetables. There are of course lots of challenges including those linked to mass tourism but if restaurants are to progress they will need to be able to work in a complete eco-system working with producers and ensuring they can find the quality produce they need.

So Maltese chefs and restaurants will need to think very carefully before adding fois gras, lobster, wagyu beef and caviar on their menus in the hope of clinching a star or more.

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The good thing is that chefs like Jonathan Brincat, Kevin Bonello and Victor Borg will get more international recognition in the weeks and months to come. Jonathan Brincat has already spoken in an international symposium in the

past but the three are likely to get more invitations abroad. While they needed no introduction locally, their status will help them to make new connections that can help them grow both as individuals and as chefs. There are others ready to push the bar including some that have been involved in very recent openings of restaurants or the much anticipated restaurant by Iniala which is set to open in June. What I am interested in seeing is a drive to showcase local ingredients that put the producer or the fishermen at the forefront of what needs to be done. Maltese chefs would do well to follow the example of the North Sea Chefs, a collective that encourages chefs to use fish that are not commonly used in restaurants. There needs to be a conversation between chefs and farmers, chefs and fishermen, chefs and growers. Michelin has presented the island with a unique opportunity to shape the way Maltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gastronomy evolves over the next five to 10 years. This is a unique opportunity for ambitious chefs and restaurant owners to push the bar further knowing that there is a guide like Michelin that has the potential to recognise their work. This is a golden opportunity. The journey may be uphill because there are many challenges but as they say the journey is more important than reaching the destination. Let the fun begin.

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In Pursuit of

PERFECTION INTERVIEW WITH

JONATHAN BRINCAT CHEF DE CUISINE AND CO-OWNER AT NONI RESTAURANT

fter serving the crowds of several prestigious eateries in Malta and abroad, Chef Jonathan Brincat has made his home at Noni, in Republic Street, Valletta. Jonathan’s work is impressive and highlights his culinary flair and sharp eye for detail. His style of cuisine is described by many as modern yet with a classical touch primarily using local seasonal ingredients. Indeed, every dish prepared at Noni is a work of art which exalts the beauty local seasonal produce. Jonathan shared with us his thoughts about the food industry and his plans for the future.

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Credits: Brian Grech

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How did your culinary journey begin? I must say that my love for cooking started at a very young age watching my mum at work in the kitchen. Nevertheless, my culinary journey began at the age of 15. It started in a local hotel as a commis.

What lies behind the nickname “Noni”? Noni was my grandfather’s nickname. He had a shop in Msida called “Noni” and it eventually ended up being my own nickname. It somehow stuck and that’s how I am known.

Where do you get your inspiration? Inspiration can be a strange beast; it comes when you least expect it. Inspiration can spark from a walk out in the countryside, or at a local kaÿin whilst having a cup of tea (which is incidentally where I got my inspiration for my dessert called “Te Fit-Tazza”). Nevertheless I am generally inspired from ingredients in their own environment.

Who was your biggest inspiration in the kitchen growing up? I consider myself very lucky because I have more than one inspirational figure in my life. I worked alongside very good head chefs both locally and internationally but I must admit that my biggest inspiration is my mum as she is the only person who manages to cook amazing food with whatever she has available. She always does an excellent job.

René Rendzepi once noted that, “Chefs have an opportunity and perhaps even an obligation to inform the public about what is good to eat and why.” To what extent do you agree? You had the opportunity to work with Chef Gary Hollihead. In what way has such an experience helped you develop further your culinary skills? Working with Gary Hollihead was a great experience. He made me look at food from a different perspective we were generally accustomed to in Malta. He used to emphasise mostly on sustainability and freshness of the ingredients selected. He also had a straight forward plating approach which gave the ingredients selected and their flavours the possibility to stand out. This is a philosophy that I still adhere to.

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I perfectly agree with Chef Rendzepi. This obligation is part of our job and we must inform people about the origins of food. Sadly, nowadays, we eat food of which we have no idea of its origins and how it was cooked.

What word of advice you would give to someone wanting to become a chef? Work hard, keep your mouth shut and your eyes open, read a lot of books, show up every day in the kitchen, respect everyone around you and definitely taste everything.

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TASTE OF

SUMMER

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Review of Commando

Summer is celebrated in such a special way at the Commando Restaurant. It is that time of the year when Chef Patron, Damian Ciappara’s brain together with his team, Thomas Stellini and Ryan Vella, switches to creative mode and starts developing amazing recipes.

A food enthusiast recently wrote on Tripadvisor that Commando is, "A food gem in the quaint village of Mellieœa”. Indeed, it is! Damian's work is impressive and highlights his culinary flair and sharp eye for detail. His style of cuisine is described by many as modern yet with a classical touch primarily using local seasonal ingredients. Indeed, every dish prepared at Commando is a work of art which exalts the beauty local seasonal produce. Damian's summer menu is no exception. It is a mix of traditional dishes which remain a staple of Commando with new fresh concepts which exalt the summer season and give justice to the beauty of local produce. Food enthusiasts are offered a selection of impressive dishes both in terms of starter as well as main course to choose from. Diners are treated to dishes such as Risotto Cacio e Pepe, Local Fig and Goat's Cheese Salad and Scallop and Seabass Tortellini to start off with. On the other hand, Barbary Duck Breast, Milk Fed Veal Chop and fresh Mediterranean fish are a few of the options for main course. In terms of dessert, the selection includes Vanilla and Rum Pannacotta, an Amaretto Tart and a White Chocolate and Lime Mousse.

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M O R GF

IN T R TA

0 1 5 â&#x201A;¬

100% MADE IN 24

ITALY DELICIOUS

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GAS & WOOD BURNING PIZZA OVENS Forno Allegro Malta T: 21445816 E: sales@borgcardona.con.mt

WE TRY TO USE LOCAL PRODUCE. WE ARE BLESSED WITH SOME VERY GOOD SEASONAL INGREDIENTS. The major strength in Commando's menu probably lies in the use of good local produce which perfectly blends with the creative mind of a great chef. Damian recently noted, "We try to use local produce. We are blessed with some very good seasonal ingredients. Nothing beats some seasonal ripe tomatoes, fresh strawberries, local salt and local honey. Such ingredients serve as a perfect muse to create interesting dishes." He adds, "We are spoilt for choice during the summer period with a vast selection of fish which exalts the imagination of every professional chef and food enthusiast. It is also a time for grills where we can experiment with various types of marinades and rubs. Every product marries well with some great wine or beer." He adds that it is a time when they resort to fish which is often underestimated in its richness such as lampuki (dorado fish). "We are blessed with lampunki at the end of the

summer season yet often tend to underutilise it. It is a pity as it offers so many cooking options." And what about the service? Many food critics describe it as "excellent - attentive but not intrusive." There is no better way to define the approach at the Commando restaurant. Notwithstanding the change in seasons, the service remains impeccable and a pleasure to have around. It is by no coincidence that the place was earlier this year awarded by the Michelin Guide with a Bib Gourmand, becoming one of just three restaurants in the Maltese Islands to hold this distinction. The place is certainly worth a try so whilst driving down to Mellieœa, think about Commando restaurant and make sure to pay a visit this summer.

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he restaurant’s motto Share, Indulge, Unwind....speaks for itself. This award-winning place has already been at the height of the culinary scene in Malta. Located in the heart of Mosta near the famous Mosta Dome, in a 300 year old townhouse, the restaurant has an intimate and relaxing ambiance. Wood and stone, which dominate the interior, give the design of the high-ceiling room a natural spin. The cuisine is all about the detail. Steve Vella, heading the talented kitchen brigade, creates dishes to talk about which are impeccable and provocative. His passion for local and fresh ingredients is reflected in the well-thought-out menu, which changes seasonally. The chef’s creativity as well as stamina has recently paid off. As a result, the restaurant has been listed in the exclusive Michelin Guide 2020. Don’t just take our word for it.....We can guarantee you will be tempted to devour everything on the menu.

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aron’s kitchen, a smart casual bistro in the heart of the capital city specializing in Maltese

Mediterranean cuisine. Run by chef Aaron Degabriele and family over the years has established a reputation for excellent homely food and service. ‘We take pride in presenting traditional dishes which over the years might have been lost, forgotten or underappreciated but are a presentation of Maltese culture & heritage’. Aaron’s Kitchen is a Michelin guide 2020 recommended restaurant reviewed as ’The menu includes many regional classics; be sure to try the ‘fenek’ – traditional Maltese rabbit cooked with a secret ingredient according to Aaron’s mother’s own recipe.’ MICHELIN guide inspectors.

107, Archbishop Street, Valletta. 9923 0636 / 2123 0636

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gioiabananas 28

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he Terrace at Rampila is on the original gun emplacement overlooking the defensive ditch and the entrance to the City of Valletta. The position, completed in 1582, was connected with the Cavalier of St. John and was designed to be pivotal part of the defence of the city against attacks from the land. Together with the Cavalier of St. James, facing from the opposite side of the Bridge, the fortifications commanded the approaches to Valletta. Today St. Johnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cavalier is the seat of the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta while the passage way to the middle wing is where the Rampila Tunnel Restaurant is situated. Alongside the Rampila Wine Bar is what remains of the linking tunnel between the two Cavaliers. Rampila Restaurant today dedicates itself to an entirely more peaceful purpose of offering the finest of cuisine, wines and hospitality in this historic and iconic location.

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Summer Blues at BAHIA Review on BAHIA

t is impressive how Bahia continues to offer consistency both in its food and service. It is said that to be a truly great chef, one needs to write one’s own culinary language and I must say, Chef Tyrone Mizzi, Chef Carlos Buttigieg and their team are truly capable of doing that. The restaurant is a true gem under the watchful eyes of Colin Ciantar and blessed by the creative hands of two of Malta’s most talented chefs. Their work simply amazing and constantly create incredible dishes with that little touch of wow which changes any dining experience from a normal experience to something you will remember for a long time. Food at Bahia is based on four fundamentals; deliciousness, beauty, creativity and intention. The combination of this quartet creates the magic which has made Bahia stand out of such a busy crowd.

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It is by no coincidence that in a recent review, Bahia was described as, “Excellent! Service was very attentive and up to the Malta Michelin Guide list status acquired. The food was well presented, the tastes meticulously structured. From the richness of the snail and lacto tart combo, to the endive salad bite surprise, the place left us want for more! Great selection of wines. Will definitely be back for more. Thanks for the experience!” Their summer menu is no exception. The COVID-19 pandemic has not deterred their mood and the boys in the kitchen have prepared a selection of dishes to die for. Their Caprese Tart is simply divine. The combination of arugula pesto, heirloom tomato jam and local ‘mozzarella di bufala’ with that touch of white balsamic is so intense. The tart gets an extra kick with a crispy base perfectly cooked. The moment you bite into the tart, you can feel that sense of freshness which can only be offered by a genuine local produce well handled by some truly capable hands. For those into some good pairing, the tart fits perfectly with a good Spanish Freixenet Cordon Negro Cava Brut. What can exceed our expectations after such an exquisite tart? Surprisingly, there are other starter dishes in for that challenge. The Ricotta Gnocchi with Sea Urchins and Parsley Oil are truly out of this world. The blend of sea urchins and parsley oil is so intense and combines in such an exceptional way with the ricotta gnocchi. Once you finish the gnocchi do not shy away. Ask for an extra piece of bread and do make sure to dip a piece into the remaining gravy. This dish fits perfectly with a Rosé Berne Inspiration, Côles de Provence wine. Its rich and full of intense fruit, a tangy pepper background gives a bright, crisp finish gives the dish that extra pinch. The starter menu at Bahia, includes other delicacies such as Chilled Pea Soup and ‘Labneh’, Breaded Veal Sweetbread Caesar Salad and Lamb Carbonara and Zucchini Acquerello Risotto. The selection of mains are also impressive. Their fresh local caught fish accompanied with Cabbage in XO Sauce, toasted Sesame Seeds and Oyster Chantilly is a must to try out. The fish is cooked to perfection. On the other hand, the cabbage taste is exceptional. The taste of XO sauce, a truly flavour-bomb condiment rich with dried seafood and cured ham perfectly combines with the smooth taste of cabbage. The sesame seeds add that extra touch both in taste and presentation. The oyster chantilly is the cherry on the cake of such an amazing dish. A Sauvignon Blanc, Conte della Vipera, Antinori is the perfect final touch to such an amazing

dish. For those who prefer meats, the Grilled Garlic and Rosemary Leg of lamb with Miso Glazed Auabergine, ‘Xemxija’ Caper Shoots and Jus is your choice. The lamb is cooked to perfection with that taste of grill combined with the intense flavour only rosemary can offer. The miso glazed aubergine is amazing both in taste and flavour, complementing the traditional taste of the leg of lamb. The choice of wine for this dish is surely a Lungarotti Rosso di Montefalco 2013. Bahia offers other main course optons which include Cheeks of Local Pork and Slow

Roasted Yellow Onion with Hazelnut, Soya Cream, Bulgar Wheat, Celery and Verbena. For those with a sweet tooth, Bahia will surely not disappoint you. Poached Peach with Dehydrated Maltese Honey ‘Microwaved’ Sponge Cake and Jivara Chocolate Namelaka and Almond Sable Biscuit with Banana and Peanut Crémeux, Crystallized Salted Peanuts and Espresso Granita are a few of the mind-blowing sweet delicacies you will come across on their menu. A Ben Ryè, Donnafugata will surely conclude your meal in the best possible manner. Bahia is indeed a celebration of food which reaches its epitome during the summer season. The choice of food prepared during this time of the year is simply amazing and worth to enjoy with your loved ones. Booking is certainly a must so as to avoid any unnecessary disappointments.

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Truly Lavish

EXPERIENCE

heltered among the imposing bastions that rest on the Marsamxett harbour shoreline, a few meters away from the Valletta Waterpolo pitch, lies one of Malta’s leading restaurants. Since the outlet opened its doors, Capo Crudo took the market by storm piquing the curiosity of all local and foreign gastro enthusiasts. 32

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The outlet has a touch of class which is complemented by a good dose of contemporary feel and a pinch of boldness which is evident in the choice of furniture and decor including the glossy red, life-size sculpture of a bowing man and other bright coloured patterns near the entrance. The restaurant is divided in open plan sections where on entering one enters the cocktail bar and lounge, from which one moves to the main restaurant; on one side the open kitchen is situated and on the other side a top class wine cellar; from there one finds a semi private dining area with a large chef’s table set-up . The outlet’s relaxed ambience is well complemented by the magnificent open views of Marsamxett harbour and the Sliema seafront through the glass partition outside walls. The center of attraction at Capo Crudo is food. The menu is indeed a pleasure for the eye with such an impressive selection of crudi, and carpacci to start with, an astonishing choice of starters and pasta to follow and a jaw dropping selection of fish and meat main courses which include lamb confit, lobster from the tank and braised octopus among others. No meal would end on sweet note without a selection of desserts to choose from. Every item on the menu has a story waiting to be discovered by all those who choose to dine

at Capo Crudo. To accompany every meal, Capo Crudo offers a vast selection of wines available sourced from the best wineries across the globe. The place also boasts a great selection of liquors and spirits which serve as a perfect intro or conclusion to any meal. It is by no coincidence that Capo Crudo boasts an impressive accolade of awards which includes Best Chef Award 2018 - Chef’s Award for artistic Presentation - Front of House Manager Achievement Award - Restaurant Award Winner 2019 - Wine experience of the year 2018 - Awards for the 30 best restaurants in the Maltese Islands - Award for participation Cibo Nostrum 2018 - Award for the top best 50 restaurants Malta - Award for participation Sicilia da Gustare - Silver spoon award 2019 - Award for participation Cookin’Med - 2018 Award winner most popular for Business Entertainment - Award for participation Cibo Nostrum 2019. Capo Crudo was also recently included in the Malta Michelin Guide 2020 list. Whilst driving down to Valletta, keep in mind Capo Crudo and make sure you drop for an unforgettable food experience.

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BACKTO THE

CORE

Interview with

STEPHEN & JAMES SCHIAVONE, TARTARUN

August 2020

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f the many industries that have been struck by the Covid-19 pandemic, the restaurant industry has perhaps been hit the hardest. Delivery-focused operations that rely on cheap, simple ingredients may be better-positioned to ride out the worst of the pandemic, but restaurants that rely on sourcing and preparing local, quality ingredients to serve to in-house diners had to shut down almost overnight. The pandemic spared no mercy on the identical twin brothers, Stephen and James Schiavone. Indeed, like many other counterparts the COVID-19 pandemic was a storm on a sunny day. It was something they did not expect or plan for.

Yet they faced the challenge. They always worked on the principle; in it together. Indeed, together they have faced many challenges and COVID-19 is another battle they do not intend to lose. At the end of the day, they have a solid base to work on which is their family run restaurant, Tartarun which has recently been included in Malta’s Michelin Guide. Stephen notes; “Employee safety and retention was our primary concern. Like other businesses we were thinking hard to be able to make a product deliverable.” James notes; “During the COVID-19 pandemic outbreak we closed our Deck & Morsel outlet in Smart City for good and altered our kitchen setup at Tartarun to incorporate a Deck & Morsel food delivery menu concept with a specific menu whilst working on a Tartarun Home concept. The Tartarun home menu included their new add on fish charcuterie from dry cured fish hams to fish guanciale and swordfish bacon. All are served with grissini, smoked butter, condiments & lacto fermented cucumber. The menu also has daily prepared specials of; local octopus & lardo; swordfish carpaccio, caper puree and cucumber; Santona anchovies; fish tartar, miso & irazake. Ready made pasta sauces like cuttle fish ink sauce and octopus Bolognese. They also introduced the concept of D.I.Y meals.

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WE DO NOT ONLY WANT TO CONTINUE EXALTING WHAT THE MALTESE SEA HAS TO OFFER, BUT ALSO TO GIVE GUESTS A TRULY FISH DINING EXPERIENCE. The covid pandemic has highlighted the importance of e–commerce and an eshop is definitely in the pipeline to better promote this concept. The Schiavone brothers are also focusing further on their selection of imported wines and champagnes sourced from boutique wineries. Above all though, the Stephen and James want to consolidate their foundations and focus all their energy at Tartarun. James notes; “We do not only want to continue exalting what the Maltese sea has to offer, but also to give guests a truly fish dining experience. James’ kitchen is today inspired by the famous Australian Chef Josh Niland who champions a ‘fin to gill’ approach to seafood cooker. James notes; “it is not just Niland’s curing, drying and aging of fish that inspires me, but the sentiment that underlines his approach to sustainability and fish food waste, his business model for a seafood restaurant, and his drive to push the boundaries of flavour.

On a last note James and Stephen tell me that “The COVID-19 pandemic brought us to a halt and took us back to the drawing board forcing us to reconsider our plans. It was a big blow for us like many yet with determination, perseverance and a will to move on, we are facing the challenge. Together and with the unconditional support of our parents, we always weathered the storm. Keeping in mind that there is light at the end of any tunnel, we will continue to strive in order to reach our goals.

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August 2020

TASTE OF PERFECTION

here is something striking about The Golden Fork restaurant which goes beyond the name, the outlet and the location. The moment you will dine there, you will realise that the outlet’s attraction has much to do with chef patron, Letizia Vella. Brilliant as ever, Letizia’s Golden Fork is a real knockout where every meal is a total indulgence and a true culinary adventure that treats your mouth, stomach and spirit in such a special way. The place is a true gem in all senses. The restaurant tries as hard as any I know to bring delight to the table with every course. It succeeds so often that only the most determinedly

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grumpy souls could resist. Even the spoken intros have a role. They serve to tee up the surprises that emerge from the kitchen, which reliably turn sceptics into swooners. It is by no coincidence that Letizia is considered by many food critics as a true talent and one of the major exponents of the local food industry. It is also by no coincidence that the Golden Fork has recently been included in The Michelin Guide Malta 2020. Her curriculum vitae is impressive boasting experiences at Heston Blumenthal’s three Michelin Star restaurant, The Fat Duck and also at Blumenthal’s Dinner by Heston. Letizia is, at heart, a neo-classicist, a master of pruning

EXALT THE BEAUTY IN EVERY INGREDIENT AND ABOVE ALL ENSURE IT TASTES AMAZING. DELICIOUS

August 2020

the old-fashioned curlicues from the traditional haute cuisine of her training to make the pleasures more modern and direct. Indeed, Letizia’s food ethos is spelt out in every dish prepared. Every dish is borne by the fundamental principle to keep it simple, exalt the beauty in every ingredient and above all ensure it tastes amazing. At the heart of every dish she prepares, lies a cuisine which stresses on local genuine fresh ingredients. Portobello Mushroom Mousse, Pork Confit Terrine and Parfait Cigar, and Slow Cooked Spiced Octopus are some of the teasers on the Golden Fork menu to start with. And what about the choice of main course? An impressive selection of Honey Roasted Duck Breast, Ox Cheek, Savoy Cabbage Tempura and Local Fresh Fish are what to expect. For all those who love to end a meal with a sweet taste, Letizia has prepared a selection which includes a Baked White Chocolate and Baileys Cheesecake, a Cloud Caramelized Brioche and a Cookie Sandwich just to mention a few. The place is a food experience and is certainly not to be missed. Your taste buds deserve to be pampered well and The Golden Fork is the choice for such a treat.

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EVERY DISH IS BORNE BY THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLE TO KEEP IT SIMPLE. DELICIOUS

August 2020

THE ART OF FOOD

Interview with

JOSEPH CAUCHI

hat happens when a 17th century palazzo meets a Mediterranean food concept and a pair of creative hands? The outcome is Guzé Bistro, one of Malta’s finest eateries which has recently been included Michelin Guide Malta 2020 list. Indeed, Guzé is the place to be for all those who appreciate the beauty of the local culinary industry. Both their à la carte and tasting menus are impressive and portray the talent of a great team that amazes all those who pay a visit to restaurant. It also conveys the vision of Joseph Cauchi, owner of Guzé. We recently caught up with Joseph who shared with us what encouraged him to take over the place in 2009, the style you will come across whilst dining at Guzé and his plans for the future.

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What encouraged you way back in 2009 to take over the property? It was the perfect location to accomplish a lifelong dream, having a restaurant where I could offer a dining experience that is as unique as its setting.

I recently read that over the years the style of Guzé’s food has developed but techniques and passion have remained the same. Can you elaborate on that? Well, I definitely have continued to grow and develop myself and my passion for food. Food is an art form and as such it needs to grow, flow and change. Otherwise it stagnates like water.

Many reviews seem to stress on the flavours of your food. Why? What really makes Guzé stand out in such a busy industry? I am inspired by local produce and local flavours and I love experimenting with unexpected combinations of ingredients. Taste and flavour create a memory. Think of a dish you loved as a child – the memory of flavour remains.

How can a restaurant offer a good dining experience? A dining experience needs to be a holistic experience which engages all your senses. Ambience is important, service is important but what remains paramount to this is the food – the way it is presented, the quality of ingredients and of course flavour.

In what way do you ensure that seasonal produce and dishes are developed to make the taste as natural as possible? It is always best to work with what you have, to source your ingredients locally, at least as much as possible. We also try to use sustainable sources as it is important to be very much aware of the source of your produce and the practices used in its production.

What does it mean for Guzé to be included in the 2020 Michelin Guide Malta? It means a lot. It is a lifelong dream come true. It feels we are now part of a greater community, a community which cherishes food as an art form and a culture.

What challenges has COVID-19 offered to Guzé? COVID-19 pretty much pulled the rug from under our feet. Just a couple of weeks after the euphoria of being included in the Michelin Guide we had to close our doors. It was one of the hardest things I’ve ever had to face.

How do you feel COVID-19 will affect consumer behaviour in the coming months? What’s next for Guzé? At Guzé we are adamant not to let this break us. We will continue to push on and in fact our post COVID menu is testimony to this. We were closed but not idle. I believe consumers will be more selective now and definitely more cautious but life must go on even if things won’t be the same.

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August 2020

Taking it to the Root REVIEW ON ROOT 81

mongst the several doors along the Saqqajja steps in Rabat lies one of Malta’s best eateries. Root 81 is considered by many local food critics as a true ambassador of Malta’s food excellence. Sublime, exquisite, and outstanding are some of the words often used to describe a dinner at Root 81. The place, the service and the food fit perfectly together to provide every guest with a true gastronomical experience. It is by no coincidence that chef patron, Robert Cassar was recently awarded the chef of the year at 2020 Definitive(ly) Good Guide Restaurants Awards. It is by no coincidence either that Root 81 has recently been listed in the Malta Michelin Guide 2020.

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The past few months were quite hectic for Robert who was busy moving a few doors up from his former outlet. The place is bigger with more space on the outside and with three small balconies which offer breathtaking views of the countryside that stretches from Buskett up to the Freeport. Although bigger, the place continues to offer a sweet homely taste which is complemented by a radiant golden colour which emanates from the old limestone walls and a colourful modern touch offered by the choice of lighting and other decor present in every corner of the outlet. Root 81 also continues to offer the same food concept. Indeed, Robert and his team continue to do what they love most - entertaining guests with good food focused on local produce. With the exception of a few changes here and there, the style remains unvaried and is still presented in a simple manner so as to give due merit to the natural flavours of every component present in his

plates. Colour continues to be a predominant theme of every plate prepared at Root 81. Every dish is a game of tastes, colours and shapes. Whether it is a starter, a main course or a dessert, every dish highlights the passion, determination and culinary flair of one of Malta’s leading culinary talents. The summer menu is based on the same principles and includes an interesting selection of starters which includes Seared Scallops with Cauliflower Purée, Couscous, Shavings and Hazelnut Dressing, Local Goat Cheese Fritters with Petite Salad and Caramelised Onion Chutney, Beef Tartare with Parmesan Crisps, Dijon Mustard, Confit Egg Yolk and Bread; and Chicken Liver Paté with Fig Chutney and Brioche and Octopus Terrine with Capers, Olives and Citrus Dressing are a few concepts to choose from as a start to your meal. The list of main course dishes is quite a tricky one. It is hard to choose between Beer Braised Beef Cheek, a Trio of Local Rabbit and Wild Mushroom

Wellington. The menu also includes a selection of grills. One can also opt for a degustation menu. The selection of sweets is also impressive with Pistacchio Crème Brûlée, Chocolate and Orange Bavarois and Warm Chocolate Brownie just to mention a few of the delicacies to choose from. This impressive menu is well complemented by an excellent service and a sweet breeze. The summer menu seems to be the prelude for more to come. Indeed, Robert has a couple of ideas up his sleeve for the coming months. “A healthy growth for Root 81 is my priority. Notwithstanding the relatively young age of the outlet and the challenges offered by COVID-19 we are gradually increasing in numbers which encourages me to work harder, think outside the box and create more. We are currently working on something new to keep our clients on their toes.” For those who have not yet paid a visit to the outlet, do make sure you keep Root 81 on your radar when planning out your next dine out.

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August 2020

CHAMPION OF DUTCH PRODUCE

e Librije is considered by many food enthusiasts as a true gem where it’s impossible to remain indifferent the moment you step into the place. The three Michelin starred restaurant in Zwolle

arouses the heart and the senses instantly by means of an overall experience which spells out the impeccable skills of

Interview with

JONNIE & THÉRÈSE BOER, De Librije

Thérèse who leads the front of the house and Jonnie who has earned a reputation for his ability to put the Netherlands on the culinary landscape with his love of ingredients and his consciousness for food waste. Jonnie and Thérèse have indeed managed to uplift fine dining to an unforgettable experience, thanks to their philosophy, their approach and their savoirfaire. Every food experience at De Librije offers a form of indulgence that touches the deepest feelings of their guests. Jonnie and Thérèse have shared with Delicious what makes the former women’s prison stand out of the crowd, the style of food you will come across at De Librije and the challenges they faced over the past months due to COVID-19.

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ALTOGETHER ULTIMATE PLEASURE! How can a women’s prison turn into a culinary temple? This is realizable by doing a big renovation. We (Jonnie & Thérèse Boer) always had a dream/wish to have a hotel, a place which we could offer to the guests of our restaurant. The local government of Zwolle called us if we where interested in the former prison, together with some other buildings. When we walked in the Spinhuis we were totally in love, and could see a culinary temple in our thoughts.

What do you want guests to remember after their visit to De Librije?

How would you describe De Librije?

That they felt welcome, and that they experienced every point of detail. That they’ve experienced the quality of our products, hospitality of our staff. Altogether an ultimate pleasure!

It is a restaurant which is focused on local products and environment. It has its own way of cooking and contact with our guests. It has its own chiastic ambiance, focuses on the little details and we work with the best products.

Food critics have often defined your style as professional, passionate, elegant yet playful. To what extent do you agree? We agree on that, we think we are also headstrong.

In what way is your menu based on the senses? This is something which will come back every moment, during the selection of the goods where we work with. Also during the presentation to the guests, and the way of experience for the guests. For us it is important to entertain our guests at the table.

How is that sense of unique experience incorporated into your menu? It is all about experience. This is been done by way of cooking, presentation and preparation. For example we serve our dish ‘Snoekbaars / Pike-perch’ at the table where we prepare/cook this from begin to end at the table, with the use of smoke and smell at the table, it’s a great way of experience senses for the guests.

Where do you get the inspiration? How do you keep it fresh and how do you decide what dishes will and won’t be on the menu? By travelling a lot and experiencing all kinds of products/ dishes/traditions. Be one with the nature where we live in, experiment with that. We do a lot of talking with other colleagues and listen to our staff with ideas.

In what way does Nature play a key role in your kitchen? In every way, atmosphere, products, preparations and presentation. Very important!

Tell us about your line of products. Only make use of the best and most beautiful products from our region! Go into the field/forest ourselves and take products with us. Harvest our own herbs and be very close to our suppliers, in that way they will present a lot of nice products to us first, and even cultivate private vegetables/herbs for us. But always, the best quality!

What’s next for you? Surviving out of the corona crises, and bring everything to what is was.

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August 2020

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August 2020 ELICIOUS CHEESES OUR OWN DARTISAN

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Free Delivery Across Malta to Households and Restaurants

ARANCINI

AL SUGO

PREPARATION ■ In a pot, put 1 liter of chicken broth to boil with the rice. When the rice absorbs the water, add the rest of the chicken broth with the saffron, let it slow cook until ready. Place the rice in a bowl and let it cool down. 8-10 PIECES

INGREDIENTS 500 gr Roma Rice 1.5 liter Chicken Broth 70 gr Butter 1 Bag of Saffron 50 gr Grana Padano 2 Eggs ½ Onion 1 Carrot 1 Celery Olive oil 300 gr Minced Beef Tomato Concentrate 200 gr Mozzarella Fior di Latte Bread Crumbs

■ Once ready, add the butter, one egg, the Grana Padano cheese and mix well until all seems uniformed. ■ In a casserole, fry gently the sliced onions, carrots and the celery with olive oil for a few minutes. Once the onions are translucid, add the minced beef and cook for another 30 minutes. ■ Once ready, let it cool down like the rice. ■ Get the bowl of rice. Take a tablespoon of rice in your hand. Flatten it and curve it in order to obtain some space in the middle to place the filling. ■ Fill up the curve shaped rice with the meat mix and mozzarella and add some rice to close the ball. You should get a ball of rice. ■ Dip the rice ball in a beaten egg and roll it generously in the breadcrumbs. ■ Deep fry each arancini for 3 to 4 minutes.

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GNOCCHI SORRENTINA 4

INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

Henry F. Bouverie Street Il-Gżira GZR 1224 Tel: 2016 5109

500gr Gnocchi di Patata Fresh Basil Leaves 100gr Grana Padano 250gr Mozzarella Fior di Latte 2 Garlic Cloves 200ml Marzano Tomato Sauce Olive Oil Salt and Pepper

■ Gently fry the garlic clove (entirely) in olive oil for 2 minutes and add the tomato sauce, let it cook for another 5 minutes, add salt and pepper to your liking, then remove the garlic clove. ■ Bring salted water to boil in a pot. Once it boils, add the gnocchi. Once they float, let them cook for another 3 to 4 minutes. ■ Drain the water of the gnocchi and toss them with the tomato sauce. ■ Dice the mozzarella, place it on top of the gnocchi with some spoons of Grana Padano cheese. ■ Place the dish into an oven for 5 to 7 minutes at thermostat 250°C, until the mozzarella and the Grana Padano cheeses have melted.

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MALTA

#DineWithTheStars

August 2020

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August 2020

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MASTER OF

BALANCE

Interview with

JOAN ROCA, El Cellar de Can Roca

ften described as humble, nurturing and inspiring, Chef Joan Roca is also a deeply competitive, ambitious and driven person. Every plate he prepares is based on the

premise that a dining experience is intimately tied to the senses, not just in taste but in sight, sound, touch and smell. Joan is a true genius that reveres tradition but is not encumbered by it in his cooking. His dishes succeed because of his careful attention to balance, creating plates that contain sweet, savoury, sour and salty notes, all in harmony. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also not afraid to embrace modern technology, using sous vide to create some of his signature dishes. Joan shared with Delicious his intimate relationship with the culinary world, how modern technology fits into his kitchen ands plans for the future.

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In what way has your mother influenced your professional journey? My mother taught us how to cook, how to love the trade, and passed on to us important values such as a generosity, effort, commitment, hospitality and patience. And the most important thing, it was possible to live with the family and make the restaurant your passion, your way of life.

Food critics have often stressed on your attention to balance, creating plates that contain sweet, savory, sour and salty notes, all in harmony. How to you create such a perfect balance? El Celler de Can Roca is a sum of worlds that unite. A fluid dialogue with the guiding thread of passion, diversion, rigour, and the inspiration of three that come together in a rich and transversal harmony. The combination of the three disciplines that each of us contributes, salty cuisine, liquid world, and sweet world, allows us to create, in conjunction, experiences that survive in the memory of the diner beyond the ephemeral that is at the end our work.

How does modern technology fit into your kitchen? The cooking of emotions in the guiding thread. We take advantage of technology to reach the emotion without renouncing the flavour. Taste is the most important thing and technology has to help enhance it without masking it. From here, technology makes our work easier and opens up a window of opportunity. The kitchen is precision and helps us to approach perfection, now behind every appliance there is a human person.

What makes olive oil your favorite ingredient? Olive oil, a Mediterranean treasure, also a very good conductor for aromas, to prepare emulsions and sauces.

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In what way is a dining experience as intimately tied to the senses? We pretend to create an emotional trip through the taste, which awakens memories, an experience of well-being, of reunionâ&#x20AC;Ś

You have recently noted; "The hardest thing is to work with people and keep your team happy." Why? It is not easy to manage a team of 35 young chefs, with talent and eager to show that they do well. Manage this it is not easy. Since we moved to the new restaurant, thirteen years ago, our situation has changed. We have changed the tension for the concentration. Having the equipment, the tool, that everything is in place, the machines, the product, the clear concept, the space, reduces the tension.

Describe the atmosphere in the kitchen at El Cellar de Can Roca? You breathe respect, concentrated passion.

Spain has been a hotspot on the culinary map for many years. How do you think it is developing to continue attracting gourmets for its cuisine? The Spanish cuisine lives an excellent moment fruit of a solid tradition. It first committed to innovation and technology and, in a second phase, it was able to defend and respect the excellent product that we have in our geography. Now it is looking for new horizons from the commitment to excellence and creativity, giving rise to different stories of mature cuisine and personality, all of the interesting.

Who makes Catalan cuisine stand out of the crowd? Catalan cuisine always has had an important prestige, since the 14th century, there have always been periods

of great importance in Catalan cuisine. The richness and literary weight of Catalan cuisine is fascinating. Catalan cuisine is a cuisine that has involved and has been projected internationally thanks to the roots of a deep tradition. The circumstances that produced that at a certain point in modern history, the creative talent and innovative spirit of the cooks, and the high quality of the products of the land could enhance the recognition of the excellence of our cuisine, both traditional and modern aspects.

What's next for you? Prolong the present, fortunately for a few years we find ourselves in a magical moment in this house and I would like the dream to be fulfilled was to lengthen the present as much time as possible, regardless of the recognitions we have received, I do not mean that, but I mean to keep the illusion, the motivation, the commitment of the wonderful team that is around. To be able to drag this out in time would be wonderful.

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August 2020

One of a

KIND REVIEW ON

CAVIAR&BULL

here is something particular at Caviar&Bull which certainly makes it one of the best restaurants on the island. Located in St. Julian’s with striking views across St. Georges Bay, Caviar&Bull is the perfect venue for dining out in Malta. A gastronomic menu of mouthwatering dishes of locally sourced ingredients await. The food, the place, the location, the service and the ambience come together to create a unique culinary experience which captivates you the moment you step into the restaurant. The concept has also made its way beyond our shores in Budapest. Caviar&Bull is the brain child of Chef Marvin Gauci, a name which certainly needs no introduction both on the local and international plane. A food enthusiast recently wrote on Tripadvisor that at Caviar&Bull “They make an art out of the food they serve. Creative and delicious, innovative and beautiful plates.” Indeed, they do! The food is impressive and highlights Marvin’s culinary flair and sharp eye for detail. Caviar&Bull is in sync with his continuous effort to provide a high quality product and service. Every dish is made from high quality ingredients and gives attention to detail which ensures every plate stands out for its taste, flavour and originality. The menu at Caviar&Bull is a true work of art. It is a mix of innovative and classic concepts which tease the taste buds of any food enthusiast who pays a visit to the outlet. Seared Bull Carpaccio Smoked with Oak, Prawns Samurai Tempura, Fois Gras Poele, perfectly complement other starter classics such as Bufala Mozzarella and the Mediterranean Ocotopus. And what about the pasta? Tagliatelle Tan-Nanna Mananni, Fettucine Prawns and Lamb Tortellacci are just a few teasers of what to expect. On the other hand, the selection of mains is impressive. Barbary Duck Breast Double Tempoblack Angus beef Cheeks, Seabass Iceberg Flambé are a few of the names

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you will across whilst reading through the mains. But the real signature dishes at Caviar&Bull are the Lobster Popcorn, the Seared Wagyu Beef Carpaccio and the Classic Wagyu Tacos. For those with a sweet tooth, rest assured you will not be disappointed. The place also offers degustation menus. For those, who never tried them, simply go for it! They are divine! The outlet is not only a food experience; the place offers you the possibility to pull up a stool at the champagne and oyster bar, or meet with friends in the lounge, over cocktails with a molecular twist. On the hand Caviar&Bull Budapest, is a real gem which walks on the footsteps of its Maltese counterpart yet ensures a clear Hungarian imprint in its design as well as in the menu. Local fresh ingredients, sourced from the best suppliers harmoniously coexist with Caviar&Bull signature dishes and key staples of Hungarian cuisine such as the use of the Local Grey Cattle, Mangalica Pig, Foie Gras, Paprika and Tokaj Wine. The place is certainly worth a try so whilst walking planning your next evening out, think about Caviar&Bull. You will surely not be disappointed!

THE FOOD, THE PLACE, THE LOCATION, THE SERVICE AND THE AMBIENCE COME TOGETHER TO CREATE A UNIQUE CULINARY EXPERIENCE

Follow https://instagram.com/ marvingauci?igshid=12mw5jin7fe90 or his amazing restaurants for all the updates. https://instagram.com/uncensored_restaurant?igshid=smltih1n97f9 https://instagram.com/caviarandbullbudapest?igshid=1s27c7zcbzg92 https://instagram.com/caviarandbull?igshid=drdryxo9g9sy

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NEW

Something

he COVID-19 pandemic lockdown was not all doom and gloom for Sunday in Scotland. It was a time to reflect, a time

to create and a time to consider new markets. Indeed, a lot has happened since I last met Amer – the founder of Sunday in Scotland earlier in February.

The team at Sunday in Scotland is currently busy working on resolutions and interactions with Sunday in Scotland character “Amer Wahoud”. Amer notes, “Over the past years we have focussed mainly on the product and quality rather than on what the brand really stands for in terms of culture, art, its philosophy and the benefits of chocolate. COVID-19 offered us time for some good soul searching and here we are showing the real character of Sunday in Scotland. We are now ready to share with the local and international market what is truly Sunday in Scotland”.

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Sunday in Scotland offers an impressive selection of twenty-five flavours that includes NO. 33 Clemson Zesty & Almonds Block , NO. 88 Negroni Marzipan Block, NO. 01 Coffee Cardamom & Cinnamon, NO. 77 Old Fashioned Marzipan Block and NO. 09 Mint Block just to mention a few which perfectly blend with fine pure chocolate. The flavours, the packaging and also concept itself are intended to portray a sense of imagination. Each concept is distinguished by a watercolour and a specific code number.

Sunday in Scotland reflects the character of Amer and is spelt out in the choice of design, colours, concepts and flavours. It is sophisticated and with a laid-back elegance aesthetic which immediately captivates your curiosity to know more about the brand. Sunday in Scotland is a combination of masterfully handcrafted, eclectic use of fine products, and a wonderful interplay of tasteful ideas with a distinguished artistic touch. Chocolate blended with fine ingredients including honeycomb, almonds, caramel and marshmallow convey the classic side of Sunday in Scotland whilst the use of sea salt, Goji berries, Gin ganache and crispy cornflakes portray the brand’s bold and creative mind. Sunday in Scotland is original with shades of fun, creativity and a deep intrinsic quest for perfection. During the past months, Sunday in Scotland was also busy developing new concepts including chocolate blocks.

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Sunday in Scotland has also recently created the Maltese falcon produced with Maltese honey from Gozo. The Maltese falcon is also available in white, milk, and dark chocolate. It is a perfect gift for any tourist or as a gift to give to someone living abroad. They also launched an interesting selection of tarts which reflect the summer season. Lemon Tart, L’Orangeraie Tart, Chocolate Tart and Exotic Tart are a few of the novelties you will come across at the outlet in Santa Luçija Street at this time of the year. Sunday in Scotland is also busy on the international front. Amer proudly notes, “we are opening in the UK and we will be present in key outlets. The project has been delayed due to COVID-19 though. We are also creating a magical line for UK market using mainly Madagascar chocolate. We are also preparing to open in Germany.” Sunday in Scotland is indeed the place to be … Bliss.

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Food INDULGENCE

BARBAJEAN

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t the very heart of Dingli, close to the village parish church lies a new eatery which is surely

worth a try. Barbajean has only recently opened its doors yet has quickly made the news both for its decor, service and above all for the food it offers.

Indeed, the place is truly impressive. Barbajean is a perfect marriage of concepts which brings together Maltese features which are visible in the terrazzo tiled tables that perfectly blend with the art deco style in every corner of that outlet. Barbajean emphasizes on soft fresh colours which give the place a distinct vibrant look. Shades of green, gold, copper and old rose stand out predominantly offering the outlet a sense of informal chic look. The attention to detail is impressive and nothing is left to chance irrespective of whether it is a chair, a fork, a painting or a stool. Yet Babajean is more than just about decor. The place is a melting pot of ideas which are brought together in every single dish prepared by chef patron Jean Pierre Dingli. Barbajean is not only about dining. It is an experience which starts from the moment a client calls to reserve a table and continues after the customer leaves the place. Dining at Barbajean must never be restricted by time; clients are invited to embark on a food journey during which the story

of every plate presented will be told. That is probably what makes them stand out of the crowd. The taste of a good Burrata perfectly combines with cumin seeds, fennel seeds and coriander. The citrus salad gives the burrata that extra kick with a simple dressing which is not too little or too much. The same goes for the Softshell Crab Steamed Bao Buns. The texture is just there and the tastes are really good. The pasta is also an option to seriously consider. Their Mezze Rigatoni

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with Clams, Guanciale and Herbs are to die for yet there are other dishes to consider such as their Wild Boar Cannelloni or their famous Silk Handkerchiefs with Roasted Walnuts, Parmesan Cream and Confit Egg Yolk. Main course is nothing less. The choice is quite challenging. Beef enthusiasts should seriously opt for Barbajean's sixteen-hour braised beef cheeks. On the other hand, the Roasted Fillet of Seabass with Vanilla Potato Cream and Sea Asparagus is a must for fish lovers. Truffle Polenta Chips, hand cut French Fries, Citrus and Herb Salad and Roasted Garlic Mash can be considered to accompany any main course.

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When paying a visit to Barbajean, do make sure to leave some space for sweets. The Tahini and Chocolate Brownie with Pistachio ice cream is simply divine, same goes for the Lemon Tart and the Fresh Ricotta and Orange Fritters. Every dish is accompanied by a good selection of wines, cocktails and other beverages. Barbajean is indeed a gem worth a try. Its impressive combination of concept, ambience and talent makes it one of the best eateries on the island. When driving out of Dingli make sure to slow down, find a parking space close by and try out its tastes and flavours.

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Down by the

HARBOUR INTERVIEW WITH

ANDRE BORG,

HEAD CHEF AT THE HARBOUR CLUB

t the tip of Ta’ Liesse Hill in Valletta lies one of Malta’s most exciting food concepts. Set in a carefully converted warehouse built by the Grand Master of the Order of Malta, Ramon Perellos y Roccaful in 1712, the Harbour Club offers a unique dining experience. The terrace area offers stunning views of the Grand Harbour on one side and the imposing bastions on the other. Indoors, guests are welcomed by a cosy setting elegantly decorated with a recycled deck of an American ship.

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The Harbour Club is also famous to host one of Malta’s leading talents in the food industry, the twenty-eight year old Chef Andre Borg. He is young, bold and energetic. His eyes reflect a strong will to succeed in such a cutthroat industry. On the other hand his smile spells out his bubbly character and joie de vivre. Each plate portrays Andre’s undisputed talent which he gradually developed during his stints as a Sous chef at a fine dining restaurant in Darlington, as a Junior Sous Chef at Waterbiscuit as well as a Commis Chef at Gordon Ramsay Restaurant. Andre also participated in the BBC’s Masterchef: The Professionals. His curriculum also includes working experiences with leading professionals in the industry such as Chef Victor Borg and Chef James Oakley. His food journey took him to many places across the island and even abroad yet it seems he has finally settled at the Harbour Club. Indeed, at the Harbour Club he found full support from the owner, Charlotte Sullivan Decorte who gave him a free hand to experiment with new dishes. Today, the Harbour Club offers a good selection of dishes which exalt local produce. That local touch can be found in the detail of a starter or as the core ingredient of a main course. Every dish also portray’s Andre’s food philosophy which is based on the fundamental principle to keep it simple, exalt the beauty in every ingredient and above all ensure it tastes amazing. Indeed, every dish has a strong sense of precision with no ingredient left unattended. Every item is in sync so as to create a perfect chorus.

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Tuna Carpaccio with Bonito Cream and Nori Crisp; Risotto with Zucchini Purée, Mozzarella di Bufala DOP, Anchovy and Honey and Bucatini with Local Red Prawn and Guanciale are some of the starters you will come across at The Harbour Club. Every customer is also spoilt for choice with an interesting selection of main courses which range from Pork, Corn Purée with Bbq Corn, Roasted Onions and Jus and Lamb with Aubergine, Israeli Couscous and Jus just to mention a few. And what about their selection of desserts? Andre’s magical hands create amazing sweet indulgences which are hard to resist. Every dish is accompanied by vast selection of local and foreign wines and an excellent service. The ingredients themselves are what really inspire Andre in the kitchen. Yet quality does not necessarily have a price tag. It all boils down to our ability to choose the right product which can even be in our own back garden. His favourite ingredient during the summer season are tomatoes. Andre points out, “Aesthetics are not the local produce major strength yet ultimately it is the taste and the way it is presented at the table which really matters and that is something Maltese fruit and vegetables will never disappoint you on.” He explains that the major challenge with fruit and vegetables during this time of the year is that they have a short shelf life. When discussing local produce, our conversation touches on the topic of foraging where he notes to me that he does practice it yet on a very small scale. He admits that the major challenge with foraging is that it is limited and there is a lot of ignorance on the subject. We shift our conversation on The Harbour Club’s recent achievement of being included in the Malta Michelin Guide 2020 list. Whilst he acknowledges the positive impact Michelin will have on the local industry and the restaurant’s achievement, he feels it must never develop into an obsession. “Work, succeed and will automatically come at some point. But never be obsessed about it.” We also discuss COVID-19 and its impact on the restaurant and the industry at large. Andre points out that like every industry, the restaurant industry is deeply hit and saw a sudden collapse. Restaurants are an industry where people spend more than half their annual food budget, and they are out of action right now. Andre notes that since circumstances are changing by the day, no one can know where the COVID-19 pandemic is going and it is very difficult to project the duration of the pandemic. As a result, the entire restaurant industry and supply chain is reeling. “We are lucky to be busy yet God knows what the future has in store. We have to take it day by day and hope for the best.” It is time for a final question. I ask Andrew on what to expect from The Harbour club in the coming months. “Our plan is to open another outlet in Valletta with a tapas concept accompanied by a vast selection of local and foreign wines. We are also developing new concepts which seek to exalt the beauty of local produce, my creativity and above all the abilities of the entire team at the Harbour Club.”

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MOULES

MARINIÈRES INGREDIENTS 2.5kg Fresh Mussels (scrubbed) 75g Butter 400ml Dry White Wine 2 Garlic cloves (finely chopped) 200ml Double Cream 2 Tomatoes (diced) 2 Leeks, white parts cut in half lengthways Handful of Fresh Parsley, coarsely chopped

PREPARATION ■ Heat the butter in a large saucepan big enough to take all the mussels. ■ Add the chopped garlic and leeks and cook until softened. Add the wine and turn up the heat. Add the mussels and cover. ■ Shake the pan for 3 minutes or until all the mussels have opened (discard the ones that don’t open). ■ Add the chopped tomatoes. Pour in the cream and season with salt and pepper. Keep cooking for another minute. ■ To serve, sprinkle with the freshly chopped parsley and lots of crusty fresh bread.

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Commendable

Initiative

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y Lebanon is a flock of birds fluttering in the early morning as shepherds lead their sheep into the meadow and rising in the evening as farmers return from their fields and vineyards. You have your Lebanon and its people. I have my Lebanon and its people. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Khalil Gibran

nitrate that had been stored in a warehouse at the port since it was confiscated from a cargo ship in 2014. The impact of such explosion is huge leaving the country short of food stocks and over 250,000 people homeless. Hany Harb, chef patron of ‘Ali Baba’ noted, “The incident’s aftermath is set to significantly impact the country in more ways than one. The explosion adds to the woes the country has been experiencing in recent years. The economy isn’t good, business isn’t good, but now we have people dying of hunger and thirst. The situation is worse than it was in war times.” Lebanon is really going to have to rely on international aid because of the state of its economy. Countries including France have offered assistance. Aid groups are also gearing up to offer medical and other aid required. It is going to be a really long and tough road for Lebanon ahead. Hany felt the need to help his own country by forfeiting his break this summer and heading to Beirut to be part of an international effort to provide an open kitchen for those afflicted by the massive explosion which rocked the city on August 5th. Hany, will be joined on his mission by another four chefs. They will be heading straight to Beirut on August 14. The Lebanese chef was overwhelmed with the support he received from the Maltese public following the Beirut explosion. “I received over 2,000 messages on our Facebook page, on WhatsApp; my phone has been working nonstop. I have just spent all day answering people and thanking them.” He also noted; “Donations are still coming in so I can’t give you an exact figure of how much money we will be able to gather. We would like to keep this going as much as possible, as this is important to all of us. We are chefs, and this is what we do – we want to help those who are suffering in our home country, and hope we will inspire others to do the same.” A massive explosion rocked Beirut with the force of a 3.5 magnitude earthquake on Tuesday, followed by a shock wave that blew out windows and caused widespread damage across the Lebanese capital. At least 100 people were killed and more than 4,000 wounded. Injured residents flooded hospitals, pushing them past capacity. The larger second blast is thought to have been caused by the detonation of more than 2,700 tons of highly explosive ammonium

Hany and his crew are planning several trips to Beirut. The first is scheduled from the 17th up to the 23rd August. The team includes Hany himself, Rafel Sammut, Jean Galea Souchet, Marco Pavlovic and Robert Bonello. Meanwhile donations are to be made directly to WCK- https://donate.wck.org/give/295659/?fbclid=IwAR1EHpZSatj_b6APDPiYSjEOgRJP1UXecN6nLbjrIClVwjTR-PqXgDmuHpw#!/donation/checkout

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From the

SOURCE

very day Joseph Spiteri drives to the beach to follow his routine, medically prescribed training, following which he heads to Xewkija to develop further his Ta’ Mena project. His bright blue eyes spell out his love for Gozo, his passion for anything the Gozitan land offers and

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JOSEPH SPITERI, TA’ MENA EXPERIENCE

his determination to see his Ta’ Mena concept succeed. Joe is on a cheerfully insane one-man mission, not only to change the way we perceive Gozitan food, but also to change the way we look at the concept of agritourism. It would be fair to say this mission is much more than a full-time job.

Ta’ Mena Estate is owned by the Spiteri family and was founded by their late mother Carmela, popularly known as Mena, and her late husband Frank who together worked hard to purchase and cultivate the land. Mena passed away in April 1986 but her husband continued to take care of the estate and operate the fruit shop. In 2002 the Spiteri Family decided to regenerate the two hectares of agricultural land which used to be a fruit and vegetable garden, thus realising their late parents’ dream of integrating agriculture with tourism so that one sector sustains the other. Today more land has been added to the estate which now covers around twenty five hectares. The estate is situated in the picturesque Marsalforn Valley between Victoria and Marsalforn Bay. The estate includes a fruit garden, an olive grove with about 1500 olive trees, an orange grove, and over ten hectares of vineyards. Joe points

out, “At Ta’ Mena Estate we cultivate vines, olives, lemons, oranges, various fruit trees, strawberries, tomatoes, melons, watermelons and other vegetables. Our idea is to present a product with a difference to our guests. At Ta’ Mena Estate we offer something more than sun, sea and comfort, in fact we strive to present Gozo’s history, folklore and culture. Guests at Ta’ Mena will learn about crops, trees and food processing the traditional way. We want to provide an educational experience to all, with a Gozitan green touch.” Indeed, Ta’ Mena Estate specialises in the production of typical Gozitan food prepared by using traditional recipes and by means of natural resources including the sun and Gozitan marine salt. Joe adds, “Ta’ Mena is a story of local produce and food traditions. The brand fuses local food elements with our passion for what the Gozitan land offers.” He also notes, “in order to achieve our goal, we are working closely

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with local farmers and producers so as to make sure we develop a long term project. We need to engage more with farmers to try to understand and utilize everything that they produce on their farm instead of just cherry-picking what we want. In other words, we should embrace all products that promote sustainable farming systems and create revenue streams for less-familiar ingredients.” Notwithstanding his drive and enthusiasm, Joe acknowledges the challenges they face. “We are literally working against the current. Our volumes are limited and certain industries are fading away. However, it is our duty to generate interest and ensure local food traditions and industries are kept alive.” Ta’ Mena is also about wines. They grow their own grapes to produce great wines with a particular Gozitan character. Joe points out, “We are proud that most of our blends have been certified as GOZO D.O.K. Wines (Certified Denomination of Origin) which is the highest wine certification for Maltese wines. We also have two I.G.T. wines which certify that they have been produced from grapes grown on the Maltese Islands.” He also adds, “Our wines are very delicate and well balanced. They are very fruity and full bodied, typical of our Mediterranean sunny climate and particular terroir. Actually our wines have the so called ‘Island Effect’ presenting traces of salt on the palate.” Visibly emotional, Joe notes, “The Ta’ Mena concept

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changed substantially over the years yet the vision and fundamentals set by my mother and father remain the same. What stated off as an outlet selling food and vegetables is today a fully-fledged agritourism concept which clearly spells out the beauty our Gozitan land can offer.” The major challenge for Joe’s project remains the country’s will to pursue a concrete agritourism strategy. Although much has been said about the subject, the sector is still very limited. Joe points out, “After decades of mass tourism there is no time to waste in diversifying and encouraging agritourism without putting too much pressure on natural resources or social and community values, thus allowing locals and visitors to interact positively and share common created experiences. It is time for Malta to take the matter seriously and help all those who are really willing to invest in this specific niche.” Joe concludes our conversation by noting, “We have come a long way yet there is still a lot to do. This is an experiment stage and we are identifying and monitoring the market’s development. I strongly believe this project has a bright future and has huge potential. Step by step, we will reach our goals yet before we run, we need to walk. However, we need government support. Government must understand that agritourism is the future. Many are ready to invest yet they cannot go all the way alone”

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A Baking

TRADITION In a recent review, Ta' Saminu was defined as a 'bakery of delights'. To what extent do you agree? We just want you to be happy, whether you delight in our sweet rings (qagœaq œelwin) or find solace in our lamingtons; so long as you walk away from our bakery with a smile on your face. You should feel happier when you leave than when you came in.

Ta' Saminu is commonly associated with bread. How many varieties of bread do you produce? Our bread is mainly traditional and everything is baked in our traditional wood fired stone ovens, including obviously ‘il-œobza tal-Malti’ (but when Maltese customers visit our bakery and ask ‘Gœandek œobz tal-Malti?’, our answer would be ‘le ta' l-Gœawdxi! Other bread varieties include the ‘ftira’, the ‘kexxun’, and ‘panini’ amongst others and of course our traditional and most famous item at the bakery; our ‘qagœaq œelwin’. Their recipe is a family pride and their dough is the queen of our bakery.

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Tell us about your famous Gozitan pizza. What makes it stand out of such a busy crowd? Today, the Gozitan Ftira is probably the food mostly associated with Gozo. We believe that cooking/baking traditional food is a way of preserving our culture and we think it is something to be proud of. In our products, being the Gozitan Ftira, qassatat with Gozo sheep cheese, traditional beef or lampuki pies and many other savouries and sweets, people recognize the warmth and pride we put in them.

Ta' Saminu is also famous for its galletti. Why are they often defined as the authentic version of galletti? Passed down from generation to generation, our family recipe of the Galletti is a tried-and-true favourite that people still love today. Our handcrafted way to produce the galletti is a genuinely artisanal one involving a lot of time and effort …obviously baked in our traditional wood fired stone ovens.

How did COVID-19 affect your operations? COVID-19 hit the tourism industry all around the world, especially for countries which are heavily reliant on this particular sector, like Malta and Gozo. Although all throughout the partial lockdown, our bakery did not seize operation, there was a significant impact on our work. This was mainly due to the lack of domestic tourists, and the complete lack of foreign tourists. We changed the layout of the products' counters at the bakery to ensure the health and safety of our employees and all our customers. We had to shift our workload to focus more on frozen items, so that we could cater and deliver to the customers who were unable to visit our bakery, but who still wanted to enjoy our products from the comfort of their own homes.

What's next for Ta' Saminu? We run our bakery with the belief that artisanal skill, hard work and effort will bring reward, creating honest, soulful, delectable bites that Ta’ Saminu Bakery has always been famous for… and we are planning to continue doing so, always willing to learn, allowing us to improve our skills along the way to continue building and preserving a baking tradition.

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LINGUINE VONGOLE

MUSSELS

INGREDIENTS 1kg Mix of Vongole and Mussels (soak in water for 30 minutes to remove any sand or grit) 8 Pieces Anchovy Fillets 6 Cloves Garlic sliced 1 Glass of White Wine 100ml Olive Oil 500g Packet of Linguine 1 tsp Peperoncino 1 Bunch Chopped Parsley Salt and Pepper to taste

PREPARATION ■ Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook pasta until al dente (less than the time indicated in the package). ■ In a large pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the garlic, anchovies and peperoncino. ■ Cook for 2 minutes being careful not to let the garlic get brown. ■ Add the wine and shellfish, cover the pan and lower the heat to medium-low. ■ Cook for 4 to 5 minutes until the clam and mussel shells open up. Discard those that don’t open. Season with salt and pepper, to taste, then add the cooked pasta. ■ Toss until the pasta is evenly coated with the sauce. Arrange on individual plates, garnish with chopped parsley and add more olive oil if you like.

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PRAWN

PERCH PAD THAI

INGREDIENTS

250g Rice Noodles (banh pho) 2 tbsp Fish Sauce 2 tbsp Oyster Sauce 2 tbsp fresh Lime Juice, plus Lime Wedges for serving 2 tbsp Sugar 1 tbsp Sriracha 2 tbsp Vegetable Oil 300g Prawns 500g Perch, cut into 1” pieces 2 Small Onions, thinly sliced 2 Garlic Cloves 2 Thinly Sliced Carrots 4 Spring Onions, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 Large Eggs, lightly beaten small handful of Coriander Leaves, plus more for garnish 100g Roasted Peanuts

PREPARATION ■ Put the noodles in a large bowl and cover with very hot water. Let soak for about 15 minutes (or according to package directions). Drain the noodles in a colander, shaking off excess water. ■ Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the fish sauce with the oyster sauce, lime juice, sugar, and Sriracha. ■ In a large nonstick wok, heat 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering. ■ Add the prawns and perch, cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until browned and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the seafood to a plate. ■ Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Add the shallots, garlic and carrots and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the noodles and and stir-fry until heated through, about 2 minutes. ■ Put the the noodles to one side of the pan and add the eggs. Cook, stirring occasionally for two minutes. ■ Toss everything together. Add the sauce and half the coriander and stir-fry until the noodles are evenly coated and the sauce has thickened slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the seafood and cook until just heated through. Transfer the pad Thai to a platter. Garnish with more cilantro and serve with lime wedges.

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BLUE RUNNER TARTARE INGREDIENTS 250g Blue Runner Fillet, 10g Olive Oil 5g Salt 10g Caper Berries 5 Springs Parsley Chopped 20g Onions Finely Chopped 1 Egg Yolk

PREPARATION ■ Finely chop everything into a tartare add salt and olive oil. ■ Mix well. ■ Add egg yolk and mix. ■ Plate and serve.

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BBQ

TIPS FOR

FRESH SWORDFISH

PREPARING THE GRILL Preheat the grill until it is very hot. If you are using a charcoal bbq, make sure that the charcoal turns greyish white in colour or the swordfish would overcook and becomes dry.

SEASONING SWORDFISH

Swordfish steaks should be around 3cm thick since this is the perfect thickness for the grill. 90

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Rub the swordfish steaks lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper and any other seasoning you choose. You may also add some lemon juice to the oil or use other types of flavours like minced shallots, capers, olives, chili peppers, fresh herbs such as mint and parsley â&#x20AC;&#x201D;or something a little sweeter such as pineapple juice.

TIME TO GRILL Brush the grill with vegetable oil to prevent the swordfish from sticking and place the steak on the grill. Don’t walk away for too long with this fish, it has a short cooking time—only about 6 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness of the steak. After about 5 minutes turn once the swordfish and let it finish cooking on the

PINEAPPLE CARPACCIO

other side. Always use tongs when turning your swordfish. Don’t poke at it with a fork since this can dry out the meat and may tear the flesh enough to really mess up your presentation. Cook the swordfish until the meat is opaque, you don’t want to see any clear flesh at all. You can gently pull a piece of the swordfish away with a fork to see. Serve it alongside fresh vegetables, salad or rice or ideally a red caper tomato salsa. The thick and meaty nature of swordfish also

INGREDIENTS 1 Pineapple 600g Sugar 8 Star Anise 100ml Spiced Rum 6 Black Peppercorns 6 Pink Peppercorns 800ml Water

PREPARATION

lends itself well to being cut into cubes and used as the focal point of grilled kebabs.

■ Bring all to the boil and pour over the sliced pineapple.

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MATTER OF TASTE

Interview with

ANDREW VELLA,

REBEKAH’S

here is something new to look forward to when paying a visit to Rebekah’s. The outlet has been substantially renovated; there is a new team, a new menu and above all, a

new brain in the kitchen. Andrew is not a new face in the local food industry. He is considered by many food critics to be one of Malta’s finest chefs. Andrew’s undisputed talent gradually developed during his stints at the 2 Michelin Star Sea Grill Restaurant in Brussels, at The Radisson, Malta, at The Arches Restaurant and at The Harbour Club. Food was in his DNA from the onset. His family owned the Panorama Hotel in Mellieħa which saw him spend his early years in kitchen surrounded by pots and pans which developed in him an interest to know more about the world of food and above all to succeed in the industry. His food journey took him to many places across the island and even abroad yet it seems he finally found his Zen at the Rebekah’s. Andrew notes, “After nineteen years working in different eateries, I felt it was the right time for me the run my very own place. It was not just a matter of running any place but rather to find the right outlet which would give me the opportunity to express my talent. Rebekah’s fit my narrative. The moment I heard that Rebekah’s was on the market, I knew it was an opportunity I could not miss out on.”

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Indeed, Rebekah’s has that special feel. The place has that unique vibe which only a traditional Maltese home will offer with an emphasis on soft fresh colours which offer the place a distinct vibrant look. Natural stone is complemented with shades of white, blue and a few tones of brown. Every colour is complementary and sets the perfect backdrop for an amazing ambience. Notwithstanding its traditional look the place also boasts a contemporary kick which is visible in the style of wood selected and in specific decor present in the restaurant. “We refurbished it at the end of September last year. We altered the place from head to toe giving it a much needed change and ensuring it reflects my own personality and philosophy.”

Andrew’s food philosophy is pretty much spelt out in Rebekah’s website - “honouring nature”. It revolves around the principle; “the more you keep food simple the more it is appreciated. If you work with a good product you will create a good dish.” He adds that, “in every dish, you need to make sure your own identity is visible yet at the right dose. Too little or too much can ruin an entire dish.” Andrew is a strong believer in local produce. Despite the challenge it offers, he believes it is all about one’s ability to handle it in the right manner. “You need to know its roots, its context and above all, its strengths and weaknesses. Once equipped with such knowledge, you are in a position to get the best out of the product.”

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Today, Rebekah’s offers an interesting selection of dishes which exalt local produce with a French touch and at times, even a slight dose of oriental flavours. This combination can be envisaged in the detail of a starter or as the core ingredient of a main course. Indeed, the attention to detail is incredible. Every plate is pure art which encapsulates the colours of every season and creates a perfect harmony between sweet, sour, salt, bitter and umami. Every dish also has a strong sense of precision with no ingredient left unattended. Every item is in sync so as to create a perfect chorus. For those who love strong flavours, the Beef Tataki or the Maple Cured Smoked Scottish Salmon are two options from good selection of starters to seriously consider. On the other hand, the main course selection is impressive and hard to choose from. The choice is based on one’s own preference. In any case, you will not be disappointed. Pan Fried Duck Breast, Irish Lamb Neck Fillet and Slow Cooked Wild Boar Fillet are a few of the dishes you will come across on Rebekah’s menu. And what about their selection of desserts? Andrew’s magical hands create amazing sweet indulgences which are hard to resist. Every dish is accompanied by vast selection of local and foreign wines and an excellent service. Indeed, Rebekah’s is not only about food but also about service delivered by a very good team both in the kitchen and in the restaurant.

Andrew concludes, “We are ambitious and want to achieve more. The COVID-19 pandemic did not help us at all. It was a big blow yet with the help of the team and the unconditional support of my wife, Julie we are here working on new ideas for the months to come. Where there is a will, there is a way!”

IN EVERY DISH, YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOUR OWN IDENTITY IS VISIBLE YET AT THE RIGHT DOSE.

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BIGGER

FORK

CARL ZAHRA, THE FORK AND CORK

hree years ago, Carl was offered the opportunity to take over a restaurant a few doors down from his own outlet. He quickly understood that this was an opportunity he could not miss. The new premises were bigger and

offered him much more space to express his talent. Moreover, the new premises are more bright and spacious with such a homely setting. The place has that cozy feel only a traditional Maltese home will offer. The place takes a different dimension depending on the time of the day. Indeed, the place is vibrant during sunset with beautiful red and orange colours that complement the shades of natural stone whilst in the evening, the restaurant takes a more classic appeal. The place also boasts a charming covered courtyard which serves as a perfect place for discreet business dinners, corporate events and client lunches. It is also an ideal spot for private celebrations.

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THE PLACE HAS THAT COZY FEEL ONLY A TRADITIONAL MALTESE HOME WILL OFFER.

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The food concept at Fork and Cork remains unvaried. With the exception of a few changes here and there, the essence of his work remains intact and still stresses on local produce which is cooked and presented in a simple manner so as to give due merit to the natural flavours of every component present in his plates. Indeed, the current menu pretty much spells out his philosophy. Today, The Fork and Cork offers an interesting selection of starters that ranges from Falafel Fritters to Chicken Liver Parfait up to Orechiette Roquette Pesto. On the other hand, the mains are a good selection of fish, beef, chicken and marinated quail. The menu also includes a vegetarian quiche with spinach, smoked cheese and summer vegetables. For those with a sweet tooth, The Fork and Cork continues to offer a good selection of sweet indulgences including its famous Imqaret and Piemontese Hazelnut Tart, Ricotta and Citrus Fritters and a Red Berry Semifreddo. Carl’s source of inspiration continues to be his regular travel and reading of culinary books. COVID-19 has spared no mercy on The Fork and Cork posing several challenges both from a financial and psychological point of view. Carl points out, “While we have all felt the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic in our homes and in our businesses, no industry has been more affected than our industry. As many restaurants have opened their doors across the country, the harsh reality is palpable: the road to recovery — for the restaurants that survive — will be long and arduous. Nevertheless, we will not feel disheartened and will continue to strive so as to come out of these unprecedented times as soon as possible.” He also adds, “ looking at the bright side of COVID-19, maybe it is an opportunity for the industry to reset its relationship with food. Maybe this moment will allow us to connect with things that are important and come out of this in a positive way. I think restaurants are the leading light for that.” On a final note, Carl points out, “An Arabic proverb states that ‘what is coming is better than what is gone’. We look positively and eagerly towards the future for better times and for opportunities to ensure stability and possibly grow further. Let us hope for the best.” 98

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LOOKING AT THE BRIGHT SIDE OF COVID-19, MAYBE IT IS AN OPPORTUNITY FOR THE INDUSTRY TO RESET ITS RELATIONSHIP WITH FOOD.

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Before your fish hits the grill,

BATHE IT IN FLAVOUR! GRILLED FISH MARINADES AND RUBS RECIPES

BY CHEF NICKY VELLA.

AZZOPARDI FISHERIES BBQ MARINADE RECIPE 1,200gr tomato ketchup 430ml sweet chili sauce 60ml soy sauce 200gr chopped fresh parsley 40gr chilli

MUSTARD CORIANDER RUB RECIPE 1 small jar Dijon Mustard 120gr leeks finely chopped 400ml vegetable oil 250gr chopped fresh parsley 60gr chopped fresh coriander 15gr salt 100gr chopped fresh celery

THAI RUB MARINADE 80gr chilli (minced) 80gr ginger (minced) 40gr garlic (minced) 100gr onion (minced) 50gr leeks (minced) 30gr parsley (minced) 10gr coriander (minced) 20gr lemongrass (minced) 15gr curry 10gr salt

GINGER, HONEY & MINT MARINADE 70gr fresh ginger (peeled and minced) 75gr honey 250gr chopped fresh mint leaves 70ml extra virgin olive oil 500gr chopped fresh parsley 100gr leeks (minced)

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Country Terrace Lounge Bar & Restaurant Zewwieqa Street, Mgarr - Gozo T:+356 2155 0248 M:+356 9944 6833 Email: info@country-terrace.com

love Gozo love food enjoy Country Terrace

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A TRULY PLEASANT SURPRISE!

idden among the busy offices in Spencer Hill, Marsa, lies a small eatery which will certainly surprise you in the taste, in the price and in the portions. The moment you step into Ta' Ċensu, you will quickly realize that this place will not disappoint you. Ta' Ċensu is cool, modern, with a casual kick and with that homely feel that makes it stand out of the crowd. Indeed, Ta' Ċensu is the perfect place for a business lunch or quick afternoon bite. On the other hand, in the evening and during weekends, Ta' Ċensu is the perfect place where all members of the family will feel comfortable. The children can eat their favourite pizza, pasta or burger whilst the parents can opt for a tagliata, a rib eye, or Tennessee pork ribs.

The menu offers a vast selection of appetizers, starters, salads, main courses, pizzas, and burgers. Linguine allo Scoglio, Thai Vegan Salad and Tandoori Tikka Half Roast Chicken, and Seabass Cartoccio, are a few items you will come across in the

impressive menu of Ta' Çensu. The menu also includes local traditional specialities such as rabbit, beef olives, stuffed calamari, snails and horsemeat. Do not be too concerned about your hunger. Portions are huge. Quantity does not in any way compromise quality. Every dish is prepared with fresh, high quality ingredients sourced from a narrow reliable circle of suppliers. When dining at Ta' Çensu make sure to leave some space for dessert. The selection is truly impressive! Food is complemented by a good selection of wines and a good selection of beers among others. The service is impeccable thanks to a young and dynamic team. The place is a breath of fresh air for all those looking for a family friendly place where they can enjoy good food and a good bottle of wine or beer in a relaxed environment. Notwithstanding the concerns the location may evoke, the place is certainly worth a try or even more.

A. Spencer Hill, Marsa, Malta T. 2122 6163

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KALÓS ÍRTHATE MYKONOS! Keith Seychell has another feather in his hat with the opening of a new eatery at the Cospicua front. MyKonos will shortly open its doors to entertain all food enthusiasts with a myriad of tastes, aromas and textures derived primarily from Greek and Italian cuisine. In order to provide something special, the MyKonos kitchen will be spearheaded by one of Malta’s best talents in the food industry, Chef Jonathan Vassallo and Luciano Carciotto, 2017 winner of the Best Pizza Maker in the World during the World Championship with the exclusive pizza Il Regno delle Due Sicilie. The Catanese is also famous for his interventions during the TV broadcast Il boss delle pizze. Jonathan and Luciano offer a perfect combination of food talent which will make a drive down to Cospicua a must. Kalós írthate MyKonos! And Buon Apetito to all! MyKonos Triq ix-xatt Cospicua

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THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND INTERVIEW WITH

DEREK VASSALLO, OOH & B2B SALES MANAGER AT NESTLÉ MALTA

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ver 285,000 employees, CFH 92.6 billion group sales in 2019, an organic growth reaching 3.5% and a real internal growth which accelerated to 2.9% in the same year, are a few of the impressive figures which explain why Nestlé is considered to be the biggest Food and Beverage company in the world. Working for such a giant in the food and beverage sector is an opportunity yet also a challenge especially in the current COVID-19 era which has hit hard on all markets and has spared no mercy on Nestlé itself. Notwithstanding such challenges, the company strives for further growth both at a global and regional level. Atelier had the opportunity to meet up with Derek Vassallo, Sales Manager at Nestlé Malta who shared with us what lies behind the success of Nestlé, Nestlé Malta’s operations, the challenges COVID-19 has brought to the fore and projects Nestlé Malta has in the pipeline.

Can you tell us more about Nestlé’s responsible sourcing? Nestlé approach to responsible sourcing is one of the central pillars of our purpose. Our commitment is to implement responsible sourcing throughout our supply chain and also to promote animal welfare. Responsible sourcing is also essential to ensure the long-term sustainability of our business. With responsible sourcing practices we can have a positive social and environmental impact. We continuously report transparently on the sourcing of our raw materials. We also built on efforts to tackle deforestation, promote human rights and ensure animal welfare in our supply chain. In our responsible sourcing program we collaborate closely with all the involved stakeholders, from deliverers, importers, processor, and farmers. Together we ensure health and safety, environmental concerns, animal welfare and human rights.

In what way does Nestlé enhance quality of life and contribute to a healthier future?

What makes Nestlé stand out of the crowd? One can mention many things that make Nestlé stand out, these vary from responsible sourcing, Nestlé commitments and the fact that we continuously strive to make our products tastier and healthier. However, if I had to mention one thing I would say that our Principles and Values are what truly makes us stand out. Although the company has evolved throughout the years we still kept true to the vision of our founder, Henri Nestlé, which is to influence positively the social environment and enhance the quality of life. Our principles and values are rooted in respect and a fundamental part of our business strategy is our Creating Shared Value. In simple words we need to create value for the people in order to create value for our shareholders. This includes all our suppliers, starting from farmers, our employees, our consumers and the communities where we operate.

Nestlé has developed three bold ambitions for a better future and to help us achieve our purpose of enhancing quality of life and contributing to a healthier future. For individuals and families our 2030 ambition is to help 50 million children lead a heathier life. To achieve this we are launching more nutritious foods and beverages, simplifying ingredient lists and removing artificial ings. We also use micronutrient fortification to help address health challenges. Also we are committed to decrease further sugars, saturated fats and sodium, while increasing vegetables and wholegrain in our products.

How would you assess Nestlé’s longstanding relationship with the local market? Nestlé has been established in Malta for over 100 years and throughout the years it has always kept a consumer centric philosophy. This has helped us to establish household brands, like Nescafé, Baci, Kit Kat and more. In 2016 Nestlé Malta launched its Consumer Center with the purpose to create a better contact point between Nestlé, its customers and its consumers. This consumer center is continuously evolving in order to ensure we meet the consumer needs as well as gives us the opportunity to take care of our environment by collecting recyclable materials.

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What is your experience working with Nestlé Malta? I’ve started working with Nestlé three years ago and I can say that I found myself at home in a company that has the same values and principles I was brought up with. In the past three years I managed to grow significantly thanks to the continuous support of other professional colleagues and senior members within the company, and thanks to their guidance I also managed to achieve positive results and reaching the set goals.

Why is working with Nestlé Malta an opportunity to go for? Nestlé is a company that values its employees and helps every employee to develop both on a personal level as well as on a professional level. Nestlé also provides a flexible working environment. This helps employees to balance better the business requirements together with the personal needs. The importance of health and safety is a top priority and this gives peace of mind to the employees. Nestlé is

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a multicultural company and hence brings together also a lot of diversity. However thanks to its approach, in regards to gender balance and diversity it manages to bring employees together irrelevant of any diversity and offers equal opportunities.

In what way has COVID-19 effected Nestlé’s operations in Malta? Covid-19 has challenged our operation on different levels and our OOH home channel was impacted negatively drastically. However Covid-19 also offered us the opportunity to show the true s of Nestlé. While keeping health and safety as top priority we ensured that we continue to keep a constant supply to our consumers. At the very beginning of the pandemic we implemented a set of safety measures in order to safeguard both our customers and also our employees and we continued to adjust these measures accordingly. We have guaranteed 12 weeks of full pay to all employees that were impacted and assisted employees

to telework where possible. We are frontrunners when it comes to teleworking and hence this was a process that we knew perfectly how to handle. We also took the opportunity to support various NGOs, health workers and also animal shelters. We are now in the process to assist the HORECA channel in its restarting phase and we are committed to assist our clients in such challenging times.

What are your predictions on consumer behaviour post COVID-19? COVID-19 has reshaped the whole word and also the way we trade. We’ve seen radical changes in consumer’s behaviour and it is obvious that the post COVID scenario will surely be different to what we were used to until now. Consumers have become more multichannel and e-commerce sales have soared to extraordinary levels. It is also likely that certain habits acquired during the pandemic will remain long term. It is being foreseen that brands that don’t adapt rapidly the “new normal” will not survive. It is also expected that consumers will continue to eat less out of home in the immediate future and they will try to support local favourites when possible. Purchases that are nonessential will also continue to see a slow down as consumers have become more discreet in their spending.

How is Nestlé Malta adapting to this new reality? When it comes to employees we are managing a phased return to our workplace for our office-based employees. In regards to our partners, we have outlined various initiatives especially to support our partners that were impacted most, which are our partners in the HORECA channel. We want to accompany our clients during this restarting phase and we are doing this through economic support and also through marketing plans that help our client to face these unprecedented times.

What’s next for Nestlé Malta? Nestlé is always focusing on consumers and innovation. Based on this we are exploring various exciting projects that will fit the new reality we are living today. These projects will continue to help us to become closer to our consumers and strengthen our collaboration with our customers. What we can say for now is that we look positively for the future and we anticipate exciting times for us, our customers and our consumers. So stay tuned and stay safe.

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L’enfant TERRIBLE

here to begin? Marvin Gauci, a father, a mentor, a chef and restauranteur of undoubted greatness and a gastronomic icon. A magician in the kitchen who is always ready to pull out of his hat something amazing. His work plays on a very fine line which distinguishes what is defined as logical from what may be regarded as extravagant, nonconformist, and unconventional. He is focused and uncompromising. But he is also kind, gentle, warm, caring and openly emotional, with a smile and a laugh that lights up a room and comes through in every dish. Marvin is someone who can be a mentor, an inspiration and at the same time, he can easily terrorize the hell out of everyone with his perfection. Irrespective of whether critics like his work or not, they all agree that he is a genius, an exponent of local talent and a champion of excellence. Indeed, people who are well-versed with the culinary industry know that one doesn’t need to describe what this man is capable of doing. There is direct connection between food and Marvin. They are like salt and pepper, rum and coke or gin and tonic. Marvin notes, “my passage through the pathway of life saw me come across food on various occasions and in every instance (irrespective of whether good or bad) it left an important imprint on me. I have often wondered how the taste or smell of freshly baked local bread, a sweet, a cake or an entire meal is capable of painting a picture with richer, deeper brush strokes than any snapshot in my photograph album. It is indeed amazing how food evokes memories connected to my home town, my family and my culinary career.” What really developed Marvin from a culinary point of view was his experience beyond our shores. He notes, “Any person vying a career in the food industry should expose itself to gastronomic experi-

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ences beyond our shores irrespective of whether it is by working abroad or by simply travelling to other countries and learn other food traditions. I had the opportunity to do both.” He adds, “My time at the Buswells Hotel in Dublin and managing a restaurant within a renowned golf club in Ireland were important as much as my time travelling across all continents. Travelling offered me the possibility to look at food from a different angle. It gave me the opportunity to come across new tastes and flavours which I gradually introduced in my own work. Travelling also served as a stimulus to push my approach in the kitchen to its limits.” Whilst Marvin remains loyal to his family’s food traditions, he seeks to evolve it with new techniques and ingredients he constantly comes across during his regular trips around the world. “My work at

the Wild Thyme and later at Tarragon, Buddhamann, Caviar&Bull and Susurrus are the product of my evolving food experience. Every outlet has at its core the fundamental elements of my family’s cooking methods which are happily fused with key cultures to create a clear identity which distinguishes one from the other.” Although he tends to travel extensively, Marvin does not have any favourite city for food. He feels every place can offer an interesting culinary spot. “The traditional culinary map has changed offering fine dining experiences beyond Florence, Paris and London. The culinary world has opened up to new culinary realities in Eastern Europe such as Hungary, Latvia and even Croatia. Moreover, the constant movement of people from one country to another has created a new phenomenon where you can experience an amazing Peruvian meal at the heart of Budapest or in nar-

row streets of Rome.” Food is also one of the things that drew Marvin to his wife. “They say that ‘behind every great man there is a great woman’ and indeed Alison is. She is an amazing person with such a determination to reach every target she sets. She is my bastion on whom I bank so much. She is my alter ego and ensures every idea that crosses my mind is developed into something tangible and successful.” Food is indeed a bit of every piece of Marvin’s life. It touches on every component that forms his microcosm. From Tarragon to Caviar&Bull up to Susurrus and Dinner in the Sky and Uncensored - every project is connected in some way to food. That is Marvin, a Peter Pan in a food journey which has led him to a few disappointments yet also many achievements. Marvin, the l’enfant terrible who continues to amaze, create and inspire.

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BOV MOBILE

CONTACTLESS PAYMENTS WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE

Talk to us | 2131 2020 | bov.com Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c., 58, Triq San Å»akkarija, Il-Belt Valletta VLT 1130. Bank of Valletta p.l.c. is a public limited company regulated by the MFSA and is licensed to carry out the business of banking in terms of the Banking Act (Cap. 371 of the Laws of Malta).

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GOZO YOUR SUMMER DESTINATION

For the full summer events programme happening all over the island of Gozo go to www.visitgozo.com or follow us on the Visit Gozo or the Cultural Heritage Directorate Facebook pages

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Cultural Heritage Directorate

Delicious No: 18

Articles inside

A Master of Taste

The Story Behind the Brand

A Bigger Fork

L’enfant Terrible

Down by the Harbour

Something New

Here’s Why

Food Indulgence

A Master of Balance

Summer Blues

In Pursuit of Perfection

Great Expectations

The Logic of Essentials