The Wine Merchant Top 100 Winners Supplement 2023

DAVID WILLIAMS Chairman’s report

Value has always been one of the themes of The Wine Merchant Top 100. When we brief our panel of independent retailer judges before they embark on their blind tasting each year, we always stress that, yes, absolute quality comes first. But we also ask them to always have an eye on how each wine stacks up against its RRP.

Of course, value doesn’t mean cheap: you can have a great value wine with a price tag that swells into three figures, if that wine is exciting enough (you’ll find one or two as you go through the following pages). Equally, the UK wine market is full of sub-£10 wines where the pleasure-to-pound ratio is non-existent (naturally we think you won’t find any of them here).

Given the current conditions in both the UK wine market and the wider economy, however, value was even higher on our judges’ agenda than usual this year. And to ensure that the competition remains as useful and relevant as possible – that it works, as we have always intended, as the best buyers’ guide to independentonly wines you can find – we have this year introduced a new category: The Wine Merchant Top 100 – 50 below £15.

Here you’ll find 50 wines of unimpeachable quality with price tags that recognise that, with customers facing a spending squeeze, having a selection of wines priced £15 or below is crucial for most independents.

We’re sure you’ll find plenty of lower-priced gems to stock among this year’s 50 below £15 selection. But, whether it’s a Trophy-winning Champagne or Brunello, a Top 100 Turkish red or Campanian white, or a Highly Commended Australian Fiano or Languedoc red blend, whatever prize they’ve picked up, all the wines featured here are, as ever, great value from start to finish.

A year of good value – at all price points

“Having a selection of wines priced £15 or below is crucial for most independents”

Champagne Germar

Breton Millésime

CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE 2014

A standout performer in this year’s competition, this fabulous small Champagne producer is run by the Breton family, who have been working the vineyards of the Aube since the 1950s.

In 2005, they made the switch to récoltantmanipulant with the launch of their own brand – since when they have developed a reputation for producing Champagnes of exceptional quality from their 7.5ha patch of vineyards in four villages in the Côte des Bars.

Those vineyards are planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, although it’s the former which provides the backbone for the house style, including in this 100% Chardonnay Trophy-winning cuvée, which was bottled in April 2015 and has an extra-brut dosage of 6g/l.

“A complex but refined Champagne with great taste and flavour: green apples, brioche and chocolate,” the judges said.

“Great acidity, great length … just a delicious example of a vintage Champagne for a good price and one I would stock,” added one. “I absolutely loved it!”

Vindependents

RRP £54 ABV 12%

WHITE WINE TROPHY

CVNE Virgen del Galir Regueirón Godello

VALDEORRAS, GALICIA, SPAIN 2021

CVNE, a Spanish wine name that needs no introduction, is of course best known for being one of Rioja’s leading producers. But the company’s work in other regions of northern Spain is no less impressive, not least at the Virgen de Galir winery in Valdeorras, Galicia, home to this year’s best in show white wine.

The winery, which is based in the village of Éntoma in Orense in the Galir Valley, specialises in local great grape varieties Mencía and Godello, with the latter in this case sourced from the single plot that gives the wine its name.

Fermented with indigenous yeast in a mix of concrete and small oak barrels, it features “tremendous freshness on the nose, real bracing acidity and a bit of spice,” according to the judges.

“It’s clean and mineral and fruit-centred but with a complexity and length that did not disappoint. Incredibly expressive, stunning length, and beautiful volume.”

Hatch Mansfield RRP £31.50 ABV 13.5%

Carpineto

Brunello di Montalcino

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO, TUSCANY, ITALY 2017

Carpineto is an impressive producer in so many ways. It farms all 500ha of its collection of vineyards spread across some of the finest sites in Tuscany sustainably. And all five of its wineries (in Chianti Classico, Alto Valdarno, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino and Maremma) are now certified carbon neutral.

That level of care can be seen in the quality of its wines, not least the estate Brunello that the judges put forward as their Wine Merchant Top 100 Red Wine Trophy 2023.

“Deep garnet in colour right to the rim. A gorgeous nose of stewed strawberries, mulberry, hedgerow, baked cherry and hints of vanilla and leather. The palate shows a very well made, balanced wine. Initially it’s all ripe fruits, mature cherry and plum. As the flavours evolve you get darker mulberry, cherry clafoutis and a finish of lovely spice and well-balanced tannins.

Stunning and easily worth the money.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £52.50

ABV 14.5%

ROSÉ TROPHY

Feudi di San Gregorio

Irpinia Rosato Visione

IRPINIA, CAMPANIA, ITALY 2021

A producer that has become synonymous with the southern Italian wine renaissance of the past three decades, Feudi di San Gregorio has been making fine wines from – and reviving the reputation of — local indigenous varieties such as Fiano, Greco, Falanghina and Aglianico since the estate was founded in the 1980s.

For this rosé, the company has turned to Aglianico, a variety known for the powerful but fragrant red wines that have earned it the nickname of the Nebbiolo of the south. But, in the special microclimate of Irpinia, the variety proves it can make distinctive, elegant pink wines that are more than a match for Provence.

“A delightful and stylish rosé that offers classy soft red cherries and refreshing pink grapefruit with lots of zip and freshness,” the judges said.

“Lovely feel and drinkability; a genuine candidate for something that will appeal to Provence lovers but which is a bit different for a rosé range.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £22.25

ABV 12.5%

Valdespino Collection

Oloroso Don Gonzalo VOS Sherry

JEREZ, SPAIN NV

Valdespino’s credentials as a wine producer are as old as they come: the bodega has roots going back to the 13th century. For the past quarter-century, stewardship has been in the hands of the Estévez family, who have ensured Valdespino’s position at the top of the Jerez hierarchy.

With access to extensive vineyard holdings of 750ha, Valdespino is a rare sherry producer able to control quality from grape to glass, with the wines in this VOS blend having an average age of more than 20 years, after oxidative ageing in 600-litre American oak barrels.

“With orange, coffee and clove on the nose, the ageing adds real complexity to this deeply impressive Oloroso,” the judges said.

“On the palate there is a lovely plump, suave feel with flavours of dark chocolate-covered hazelnuts, orange rind, clove and bitter almond. Simply delicious: a very special wine with appeal that goes way beyond sherry enthusiasts.”

Liberty Wines

RRP £46.99 ABV 21%

BEST VALUE RED WINE TROPHY

Zuccardi Los Olivos Malbec

MENDOZA, ARGENTINA 2020

Zuccardi may be a giant of Argentinian wine, a key player in the country’s emergence on the international stage since the 1980s, and a bestseller in markets all over the world. But it is still at heart a family firm, with the eponymous proprietors very much hands-on in the vineyard and winery.

It helps that the latest generation to run the business, Sebastían Zuccardi, is one of Argentina’s most talented winemakers, able to turn his hand to single-vineyard “fine” wines and everyday bottlings that over-deliver on the bang-for-buck scale, such as the Best Value Red Wine Trophy-winning Los Olivos Malbec.

Sourced from selected vineyards throughout the Uco Valley, 50% of the blend is aged in French oak for 10 months.

“It’s a bold but juicy red with a nose of cherries, marzipan and liquorice, and a palate of black cherries and blackcurrants,” the judges said.

“Supple, easy to drink but full of flavour, it is simply excellent value.”

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £12.90 ABV 14.5%

Global Wines Portugal

Cabriz Espumante/ Sparkling Brut

DÃO, PORTUGAL 2017

Portugal may not be the first place that springs to mind in discussions about the world’s finest sparkling wines. But while few bottles reach the UK, the country actually has a lively fizz scene and this cuvée is delicious proof of how good it can be.

It’s the work of winemaker Osvaldo Amado who, whether he’s working with or without bubbles, prefers to use native varieties such as, in this case, the quality Dão white grapes Encruzado, Bical, and Malvasia-Fina .

It’s a serious, traditional-method wine, which gets 18 months on the lees and at least three months’ post-disgorgement ageing before release.

“A wonderfully toasty nose, with good ripe fruit, lovely herbaceous elements, orange marmalade and some savoury character,” the judges said.

“It has well-balanced acidity shining though at a great price point. Very complex. A real sparkling alternative and great value.”

Marta Vine

RRP £16.50 ABV 12.5%

BEST VALUE WHITE WINE TROPHY

Wildeberg Wild House

Chenin Blanc

WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA 2022

There are plenty of surprises in this year’s Wine Merchant Top 100, but if we had been asked to place a bet on which country and supplier would be most likely to provide the Best Value White Wine Trophy winner, it’s fair to say South Africa and Boutinot would have had some of the lowest odds.

The wine that romped to first place makes full use of Boutinot’s knowledge of the South African winelands, with the company turning to leading Franschhoek-based Wildeburg Wines for a 100% Chenin Blanc, which is fermented and aged in stainless steel for maximum fruit expression.

At a time when rising costs have made sourcing good-quality sub-£10 wines increasingly difficult, the judges were all the more impressed.

“Bright and crisp, with lots of fresh green apple and pear, and nice lively acidity keeping the mouth keen and interested,” the judges said.

“A touch of tropical fruit, too: this is classic unoaked Cape Chenin that really packs a punch at this price.”

RRP £8.99 ABV 13.5%

Boutinot

Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Port

DOURO, PORTUGAL NV

Graham’s is of course one of Port’s most celebrated names, with a long history of producing some of the Douro’s finest vintage and aged tawny wines.

But, like all the brands in the Symington Family stable, it is also capable of making Ports that deliver remarkable value for money, offering an introduction to the house’s style while still leaving the consumer with change from £20.

The Six Grapes Reserve Port is one such wine—and has been for more a century. It takes its name from the shipper’s practice of marking a barrel with one to six grapes. Six stands for “complexity, balance and structure” – quality sufficient for vintage Port, but also to go into what has become Graham’s flagship bottling.

“Youthful bramble nose, just slightly raisiny,” the judges said.

“It’s silky, opulent palate with plenty of bright, concentrated fruit and a rich finish with hints of milk chocolate but predominantly bold bramble fruit. Easy drinking and rather moreish. Very good value.”

Fells

RRP £15 ABV 20%

BEST VALUE ROSÉ WINE TROPHY

Helfrich Family

La Baume Rosé

IGP PAYS D’OC, FRANCE 2022

“If the impetus for the global 21st-century rosé boom at first largely came from Provence, it hasn’t taken long for producers further west in southern France to catch up – and today’s best Languedoc and Roussillon pastel pinks are very much a match for their eastern neighbours.”

That’s how we began our description of last year’s winner of the Wine Merchant Top 100 Best Value Rosé Wine Trophy. And it applies again this year, with another worthy Languedoc pink taking the spoils. A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, it’s the work of GCF’s Languedoc estate, Domaine de la Baume, and it captivated the judges with its “classic southern French rosé stylings.”

“Delicate salmon pink colour, with candied red fruits and sherbet on the nose. The palate has a bit of weight to it, with rounded fruit flavours of peach, grapefruit, strawberry and lemon flesh. It finishes well with nicely balanced tangy acidity and a bit of pepper spice. Very, very good value.”

GCF Exclusive

RRP £12. 99 ABV 13.7%

Meet our judges

We ask our judges – all of them independent wine merchants – to approach each wine as if it was auditioning for a place on their shelves. They’re tasting blind, so on this occasion they can’t be influenced by labels. The wines arrive with black bags concealing the identity of what the judges are pouring.

Most of our judges conduct the tasting with their teams, and sometimes even trusted customers get involved. We give them guidance on how to score the wines as they go, so that we get a consistent approach from everyone and results can be accurately and fairly calculated.

ALASTAIR AND TERESA WIGHTON ALTEUS WINES

22 Yards Wine Bar & Merchants, York

Based in the heart of York city centre, Adrian Stancer and his team have a range of over 150 wines available for on and off sales

Alteus Wines, Crowborough, East Sussex

Established in 2019, Alteus Wines is owned and run by Alastair and Teresa Wighton, who prefer to visit vineyards by bike wherever possible.

Appellation Wines, Edinburgh

Ashton McCobb started Appellation Wines in 2009. He judged alongside his colleague Erica Sinclair in this year’s competition.

Brigitte Bordeaux, Nottingham

Since opening in 2018, Kat Stead’s shop and bar has become the go-to place for residents of Sherwood and beyond.

Derventio Wines, Malton, North Yorkshire

Derventio is the retail arm of importer and wholesaler Tate-Smith, established in 1888. Paul Tate-Smith represents the fifth generation to run the company.

Diogenes the Dog, south London

Since launching in 2018, Sunny Hodge has added Aspen & Meursault to his business, a wine bar and shop specialising in natural and low-intervention wines.

Doddington Hall Farm, Lincolnshire

Sarah Hall’s award-winning farm shop at Doddington Hall & Gardens added an extensive wine range in 2018, a welcome addition to the bakery, butchery and deli.

Ellis Wharton Wines, Cornwall

The warehouse in Indian Queens supplies restaurants and hotels in the south west as well as retail customers. Charles Wharton and Jim Bass were our tasters.

Flagship Wines, St Albans

Prior to starting her own company in 2004, Julia Jenkins was a buyer for various businesses, and marketing manager for Sainsbury’s wine department.

Flora Fine Wines, west London

The Moreno name is well known in the UK wine trade. Abbi Moreno and her son Dylan are continuing the family business from their shop in Maida Vale.

Grape & Grain, Morpeth, Northumbria

Since taking ownership in 2022, Mark Stephenson has grown the business, starting with a strategic relocation in the town.

Grape Minds, Oxfordshire

Graeme Woodward and Michael Jelley established Grape Minds in 2018. They now have two shops, in Oxford and Wallingford, and a wine bar.

HarperWells, Norwich

In addition to the retail arm of the business, Dean Harper and Sam Howard import specialist parcels and offer cellar building and management services.

SUNNY HODGE DIOGENES THE DOG

Meet our judges

Morgan Edwards, Knutsford, Cheshire

In their five years of trading, Morgan Ward and Edward Speakman have grown a loyal customer base and recently relocated to larger premises.

Mumbles Fine Wines, Swansea

A favourite pit-stop for the locals and a destination on the tourist map, Jon Moore and the team ensure a warm welcome for all their customers.

Native Vine, Bristol

Charlie Jones’s young and vibrant business holds many events and tastings. Its three locations in the Bristol area ensure it is truly embedded in the community.

Oak N4, north London

Cameron McKeown and his team bring regular music events to the Finsbury Park neighbourhood, as well as fine wine.

Oxford Wine Company

Ted Sandbach presides over one of the UK’s largest and most successful independent wine companies, and Emily Silva is currently taking her final MW exams.

Real Drinks, west London

Founded in 2005 by Nicholas Dolan, the company now operates from a store in Little Venice. Manager Iris Fabre and her team put their tastebuds to the test for us.

StarmoreBoss, Sheffield

Established in 2013, this well-loved merchant now has two shops from where Barry Starmore and Jefferson Boss run tastings and events.

SugarBird Wines, Aberdeen

Alex and Ruth Grahame ran restaurants in South Africa before returning to their hometown in 2021 and launching SugarBird, offering huge range of Cape wine.

Tell Me Wine, Chepstow

Christine and Fabian Voisin recently moved to a larger premises in the heart of Chepstow to accommodate their popular wine and tapas tasting events.

That Wine Cellar, Oldham

With a background in hospitality, followed by a stint at Amathus, Ian Howard, known to many as “that wine fella”, opened his own shop in Delph last year.

The Bottle Shop, Moretonhampstead, Devon

After living in Russia and China, followed by a lot of European travel, Anne Cleminson and Simon Johnson settled in Devon to focus on sourcing the best wine.

The Grape and the Good, Wells, Somerset

Andrew Kinnersley prides himself on offering a friendly service including free local delivery and regular free tastings at the shop he established in 2015.

The Jolly Vintner Too, Bournemouth

Jim Dawson has over four decades of experience in the trade. He stocks over 500 wines, introducing around 70 new lines each year to keep his range evolving.

RUTH AND ALEX GRAHAME SUGARBIRD WINES

JON MOORE MUMBLES FINE WINES

Keeping things under wraps

The wines that our judges taste don’t look very pretty when they’re delivered. It’s important that merchants don’t know what they’re tasting, so each bottle is wrapped in a black bag, and if we think there’s any chance that the wine could be identified by its capsule, then that’s obscured too, in some ugly white sticky paper to avoid giving the game away.

It’s clearly the fairest way to put our wines through their paces. Our judges tell us that, as well as providing a good workout for their blind tasting skills, the process is an invaluable opportunity to sample wines that they would otherwise not have encountered.

The No 2 Pound Street Cellar, Wendover, Bucks

Michael Boniface has over 20 years’ experience in the wine trade and is the wine buyer at this popular food and wine emporium.

The Wine Club, Rainhill, Merseyside

Since its launch in 2018, sisters Rochelle Garbutt and Danielle Milnes have expanded their wine business to include artisan pizzas and charcuterie.

Three Pillars Wine, Eccleshall, Staffordshire

Established in 2017, Kieran O’Brien’s shop stocks over 300 lines as well as a range of premium gins, single malts and craft beers.

Tiny’s Tipple, Chorlton, Manchester

As well as offering a huge range of wines, beers and spirits, Ed Gillibrand and his team are also responsible for some incredibly creative window displays.

Tom I’Anson Wines, Cheltenham

Tom fell in love with wine while working at Justerini & Brooks. Nowadays he retails and wholesales from his Colesbourne base.

Victor Indigo November, Gateshead

Accountant turned wine nerd Charlotte Fenwick started her wine journey with a blog before launching her shop with her wife Lorrie in January this year.

Wandering Palate, Eccles

Expect the best wines and beers paired with luxury larder goodies (and the occasional life drawing class) from the wonderfully artistic Will and Emma Evans.

Wild & Lees, south London

Liam Plowman set up his shop and tasting room in 2016 and runs regular tastings and events for the Herne Hill locals.

WineKraft, Edinburgh

Kirsty McEwan has over seven years’ experience in the wine trade. Now she’s “resident cork dork” at WineKraft, established by Graeme Sutherland in 2021.

Wines by the Sea, Portsmouth

Sommelier turned retailer Lucy Jackson launched her shop in 2021 and loves to encourage her customers to try something new.

SIMON JOHNSON AND ANNE CLEMINSON THE BOTTLE SHOP

EMMA EVANS WANDERING PALATE

Top 50 wines at £15 and below

Wildeberg Wild House Chenin Blanc

Western Cape, South Africa 2022

Boutinot RRP £8.99

Zuccardi Los Olivos Malbec

Mendoza, Argentina 2020

Hatch Mansfield RRP £12.90

Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Port

Douro, Portugal NV

Fells RRP £15

Domaines Paul Mas La Forge Estate Malbec

IGP Pays d’Oc, France 2022

Domaines Paul Mas RRP £11.95

Domaine de Peras La Guerre des Bouchons Blanc

IGP Pays d’Oc, France 2022

Top Selection RRP £13.49

Vigneti del Vulture Pipoli Bianco

Acerenza, Basilicata, Italy 2022

Liberty Wines RRP £13.49

Miopasso Grillo Appassimento

Sicily, Italy 2021

North South Wines RRP £11.99

Bodegas Ondarre Valdebaron Blanco

Rioja, Spain 2021

Hallgarten & Novum Wines RRP £12.99

Familia Martínez Bujanda Finca Antigua Viura Sobre Lías

La Mancha, Spain 2021

Berkmann Wine Cellars RRP £14

Casa Mariol Samso Criança

Terra Alta, Spain 2019

Top Selection RRP £14.99

Norton Ridge Chardonnay

California, USA 2021

Propeller RRP £14.95

Symington Family Estates Florao Red

Portalegre, Alentejo, Portugal 2019

Fells RRP £12.49

Finca Bacara Time Waits For No One Stone Elephant

Jumilla, Spain 2021

Hallgarten & Novum Wines RRP £14.49

De Bortoli Regional Reserve Pinot Noir

Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia 2021

North South Wines RRP £13.49

Paololeo Millefiore Appassimento Rosso

Veneto, Italy 2020

North South Wines RRP £13.49

Jean-Claude Mas Mon Grenache Noir Organic

IGP Pays d’Oc, France 2022

Domaines Paul Mas RRP £11.99

Helfrich Family Château Haut Mouleyre

Bordeaux, France 2019

GCF Exclusive RRP £11.69

San Marzano Vermentino Timo

Salento, Puglia, Italy 2022

Hallgarten & Novum Wines RRP £13.25

Ontañón Rippa Dorii Crianza

Ribera del Duero, Spain 2020

Boutinot RRP £14.99

Domaine Boutinot La Fleur Solitaire Côtes Du Rhône Blanc

Rhône, France 2021

Boutinot RRP £11.99

Château Capion Les Fantaisies de Capion Rosé

IGP Pays d’Oc, France 2021

Château Capion RRP £14.95

Bodegas Arloren SL Paco Arloren

Jumilla, Spain 2018

Daniel Lambert Wines RRP £13

Viña Elena Familia Pacheco Barrica

Jumilla, Spain 2019

Alliance Wine RRP £12.99

Cartuxa Geno Tinto

Evora, Alentejo, Portugal 2019

Mentzendorff RRP £8.99

Santa Luz Gran Reserva Merlot

Colchagua Valley, Spain 2020

Cachet Wine RRP £11.99

Santa Luz Gran Reserva Carmenère

Colchagua Valley, Spain 2020

Cachet Wine RRP £11.99

With customers facing a spending squeeze, having a selection of wines priced £15 or below is crucial for most independents. Here are this year’s top performing wines in that bracket, which appear either in the Top 100 or Highly Commended list.

Russell & Suitor Alejandro Fiano

South Australia, Australia 2022

Milestone Wines RRP £14.99

Di Filippo Villa Conversino Rosso

Umbria, Italy 2021

Hallgarten & Novum Wines RRP £13.25

Emiliana Novas Riesling

Bío Bío Valley, Chile 2021

Boutinot RRP £12.49

Painted Wolf The Den Chenin Blanc

Swartland, South Africa 2022

North South Wines RRP £11.49

Budureasca Sauvignon & Sauvignon

Muntenia, Dealu Mare, Romania 2021

Transylvania Wines RRP £14.99

Casas del Bosque Reserva Carmenère

Rapel Valley, Chile 2021

Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies RRP £13.15

Quintas do Homem Vale do Homem Alvarinho

Vinho Verde, Portugal 2022

Alliance Wine RRP £14.99

Pian Oro Collezione Famiglia Barbanera

Tuscany, Italy 2021

Cachet Wine RRP £12.49

Funkstille Skin Contact

Niederösterreich, Austria 2021

Alliance Wine RRP £12.99

Bodegas San Alejandro Viñas de Miedes

Calatayud, Aragón, Spain 2021

Hallgarten & Novum Wines RRP £11.99

El Camarón Albariño

Rías Baixas, Spain 2021

Alliance Wine RRP £14.99

Les Tannes en Occitanie Merlot

IGP Pays d’Oc, France 2022

Domaines Paul Mas RRP £7.99

Crosby Cellars Crosby Chardonnay

California, USA 2021

Propeller RRP £14.95

Crosby Cellars Crosby Cabernet Sauvignon California, USA 2018

Propeller RRP £14.95

Produttori di Manduria Alice Verdeca

Puglia, Italy 2022

Alliance Wine RRP £14.99

Siegel Family Wines Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc

Leyda Valley, Chile 2022

Vindependents RRP £14

Vila Nova Alvarinho

Vinho Verde, Portugal 2022

Boutinot RRP £11.99

Berton Estate Muddy Boots Chardonnay

South East Australia, 2022

Vinfinity Wines RRP £9.99

De Bortoli Wines Deen Vat Shiraz

Riverina, New South Wales, Australia 2018

North South Wines RRP £11.99

Raats Family Wines Original Chenin Blanc

Stellenbosch, South Africa 2022

Alliance Wine RRP £14.99

Andeluna Malbec Raices

Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2021

Hallgarten & Novum Wines RRP £11.49

Borsao Selección Blanco

Campo de Borja, Spain 2021

Boutinot RRP £9.49

Bon Courage Sauvignon Blanc

Robertson, Western Cape, South Africa 2022

Sparkling wines

Roebuck Estates Classic Cuvée Sussex, England 2017

Based around a “home vineyard” near the village of Tillington in West Sussex, but with a collection of vineyards across the county, Roebuck Estates is part of the front rank of English sparkling wine producers, and this Classic Cuvée blend is its flagship wine.

The Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier fruit, which is handpicked at the estate’s Roebuck and Roman Villa vineyards, is wholebunch pressed and then partially fermented in oak before lees ageing for a minimum of 36 months.

“An outstanding example of English sparkling wine that marries wonderful depth of flavour and fine mousse with clarity, precision and citrussy freshness,” the judges said. “Very fairly priced – super quality and character.”

Southern England Wines

RRP £38 ABV 12%

Champagne de Saint Gall Orpale Grand Cru Champagne

Champagne, France 2008

Champagne de Saint Gall is the house brand of Union Champagne, a “co-operative of cooperatives” formed by growers in premier and grand cru villages in 1966, and which today is made up of 15 different organisations representing more than 2,300 “labourers, winegrowers, winemakers and oenologists”.

The Orpale Grand Cru cuvée is the top of the producer’s range, a 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay, in which part of the blend does not go through malolactic, and with long ageing before release.

“Aromas of brioche with hints of roasted almond following through to an intense but elegant palate,” the judges said. “Notes of poached apple, fruit crumble and toffee. Superb.”

Daniel Lambert Wines

RRP £110 ABV 12.5%

Champagne de Saint-Gall Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut

Champagne, France NV

The second wine from this remarkable highperforming co-operative in this year’s Top 100 is another showcase for the magnificent Chardonnay vineyards that the organisation’s 15 members have at their disposal.

A 100% Chardonnay, it is sourced exclusively from grand cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs, and it impressed the judges with its finesse and “exceptional” price-quality ratio.

“Love the purity on this one; great acidity and a mineral touch,” the judges said.

“There are intriguing herbal-spicy tones, white chocolate and lots of fresh citrus zest and juice. Immaculate and stylish and very good for the price.”

Daniel Lambert Wines

RRP £47 ABV 12.5%

Champagne Germar Breton Fût de Chêne Champagne

Champagne, France NV

This small grower-producer adds to its spoils at this year’s Wine Merchant Top 100 with what the judges called a “deliciously original” Champagne. A blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir sourced from the family’s 7.5ha of vineyards in the Côte des Bars, the clue to what makes this wine different is very much in the name: it is aged, in the producer’s own words, “from harvest to bottle” in oak foudres.

“Straw colour, good bubbles. Twiglets, praline, hot cross buns. Rich initial hit on the palate –that sherry, nutty thing,” the judges said.

“Baked apples stuffed full of brown sugar and sultanas. Complex and delicious. Very good value.”

Vindependents

RRP £47.50 ABV 12.5%

Champagne PIAFF

Rosé Brut

Champagne, France NV

Launched in 2016, Champagne PIAFF may be one of the newest names on the Champagne block, but it is in fact the work of a highly experienced winemaking family: the Mansards have been Champagne producers since 1901.

Head winemaker Maxime Mansard has 24ha of estate-owned vineyards to choose from, which he supplements with grapes purchased from fellow Vallée de la Marne growers. This rosé is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay aged for two to three years on lees.

“This is a very moreish, rosé Champagne that combines bright red fruit with complex savourytoasty tones, and pillow-soft, fine mousse,” the judges said. “Top quality and full of style.”

Loch Lomond Group

RRP £51.50 ABV 12.5%

Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie

Champagne, France NV

In a portfolio filled with stylish Champagnes, Les Folies de la Marquetterie is the wine that may well be closest to the Taittinger family’s heart: it takes its name, and sources some of its fruit, from the grand Taittinger house where the family’s winemaking history started.

A blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, all of it from the first pressing, it features some components that have been aged in large oak casks.

“An immensely enjoyable and very complex, rich but balanced Champagne, with citrus, but also pear, vanilla and toast,” the judges said. “A lovely creaminess. I could have carried on drinking it all day.”

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £83.15 ABV 12%

Champagne Duval-Leroy

Blanc de Blancs Prestige Grand

Cru Champagne

Champagne, France NV

Founded in 1859, and still proudly independent and family-owned, Champagne Duval-Leroy is no stranger to the Top 100. It returns this year with another fine 100% Chardonnay cuvée sourced exclusively from six grand cru sites in the family’s sustainably-farmed 200ha of vineyard holdings in the Côte des Blancs.

Benefiting from 14 years of bottle age, and with 4% of the base wine matured in second-fill oak, this is a wine of “great style and depth”, the judges said.

“It has a floral blossom character on the nose, with a touch of lemon, orange and patisserie on the palate. Fine and enduring bubbles and a precise, long finish.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £71 ABV 12.5%

Domaine Fernand Engel

Crémant d’Alsace

Alsace, France 2020

Alsace has long been a hotbed of green viticulture, with a much higher-than-average share of its vineyards managed organically or biodynamically. Even in this context, however, Domaine Fernand Engel stands out, with its 62ha of vineyards making it the largest organic producer in the region.

Care in the vineyard is matched by craft in the winery, with this blend of 60% Pinot Blanc, 20% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay given plenty of bottle age before release.

“A wine that shows why Alsace is such a good alternative to Champagne at this price point,” the judges said. “Citrus peel, nutty notes and fleshy tree fruit, and a satisfying, long, fresh conclusion.”

Marta Vine

RRP £21.90 ABV 12.5%

White wines

Peter Lehmann Masters Wigan Estate Eden Valley Riesling

Eden Valley, Australia 2016

Two of the great names in the modern history of Australian wine are referenced in this wine. The late Peter Lehmann, founder and original driving force of the eponymous estate; and long-term Lehmann winemaker, Peter Wigan, who retired from the company in 2014.

The wine itself is made from the best Riesling plots in the Lehmann portfolio each vintage, in this case from Willam Hurn’s Old House Vineyard, which was planted in 2002.

“How lovely to taste an Australian Riesling with a little bit of age,” the judges said. “Cream, paraffin, gentle lime cordial and apple skin notes. This is an assured wine.”

Liberty Wines

RRP £24.99 ABV 11%

Shaw + Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay

Adelaide Hills, Australia, 2021

Another pair of Australian legends; another classic Australian white wine.

This time it’s winemaking cousins Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith MW who are both referenced and still overseeing production in their 55ha of vines in the Adelaide Hills, which are spread across two sites, one in Balhannah and one in Lenswood.

Fermented and aged for nine months in French oak, this is a “brilliant modern Australian style of Chardonnay”, the judges said.

“It has some smokiness going on that is just right for the wine, as well as a mineral/stone note, plus citrus, brioche and butter.

“Loved it! Layers and layers of interest.”

Liberty Wines

RRP £34.99 ABV 13%

Henschke Julius Eden Valley Riesling

Eden Valley, Australia 2022

The first of two wines in this year’s Top 100 from one of Australia’s longest-running and most celebrated estates is an “awesome” Riesling.

It’s sourced from the Henschke family’s 32ha Cranes Range Road vineyard, 2km west of Henschke Cellars, which was planted in 1966 at an altitude of 500m above sea level on sandy loam soils over gravel and bedrock with patches of clay.

“An elegant, aromatic, quite zesty Riesling full of floral lemongrass and a hint of lime zest on both nose and palate,” the judges said.

“It’s a beautiful wine, with lots of minerality. Well textured, with a long finish.”

Liberty Wines

RRP £35.99 ABV 12.5%

Lakeview Cellars Vidal Icewine

Niagara Peninsula, Canada 2019

Canadian wine has advanced enormously in recent years, with standout dry wines now being produced throughout the country. But it was a labour-intensive sweet style that first drew international attention to these northerly vineyards, and Lakeview Cellars is one of the best exponents around.

For this bottling, the frozen Vidal grapes were harvested in mid-December at -23°C and -25°C, and the resulting nectar was placed outside in mid-February to stop the fermentation and induce a natural cold stabilisation.

“Intense nose of nectarine, apricot and wild honey, with a whiff of petrol to boot,” the judges said. “It follows through on the palate, and it’s not too cloying. Excellent quality and a good price for icewine.”

Propeller

RRP £18.95 (37.5cl) ABV 11.5%

Domaine de Oliveira Lecestre Chablis Vieilles Vignes Chablis, France 2021

The 2021 vintage was a tough one for the vignerons of Chablis, with a devastating late spring frost only the beginning of the trials sent down by the weather gods.

But if the quantity was vastly reduced, the quality of the grapes that survived was often very high, not least at the 48ha, third-generation family-run Domaine de Oliveira Lecestre, which was able to make what the judges called a “crystalline, classic” Chablis from its old vines planted on kimmeridgian soil.

“Pristine, crystalline Chablis with just a hint of crème fraiche and lots of citrussy tang,” the judges said. “I like the classic style, and it ticks all the boxes of seafood-friendly Chablis that customers look for. “

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £29.49 ABV 13.5%

Louis Jadot Ladoix Le Clou d’Orge

Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France 2019

One of Burgundy’s biggest and most historic names, Louis Jadot is also a by-word for consistency, with value and quality kept at remarkably high level across its wide-ranging, region-wide portfolio.

This Chardonnay is sourced from a vineyard on a gentle, well-exposed slope with shallow, stony soils, and vines of around 20 years old. It’s fermented and aged for 15 months in oak barrels from the firm’s own cooperage, a third of them new.

“Instantly recognisable white Burgundy nose; tropical and linear citrus fruit, lovely buttery mouthfeel and juicy finish. This is a very good, elegant white Burgundy, and it is great value. “

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £35 ABV 13%

Bouchié-Chatellier

Pouilly-Fumé Pierre à Fusil

Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, France 2021

A domaine formed through a marriage of the owning families of two adjacent domaines in the early 20th century, Bouchié-Chatellier remains a leading producer in Pouilly-Fumé, producing wines that benefit from the complementary mix of terroirs that the original merger brought about.

This cuvée is produced from selected plots grown on the shelly, flinty, kimmeridgian clay of the Saint-Andelain hill overlooking the Loire river.

“A classic flinty, minerally leafy style of Sauvignon Blanc for this Pouilly Fume; a really enjoyable palate with a zesty, slightly ‘prickly’ mouth feel,” the judges said. “Good, length too.”

Boutinot

RRP £23.99 ABV 13,5%

Plaimont Producteurs Grand Cru Cirque Nord

Saint-Mont, France 2019

With numerous Top 100 and Highly Commended gongs, Gascony’s Plaimont was one of the stars of this year’s competition, a result that will not come as a surprise to this highly respected cooperative’s many satisfied indies customers.

The Cirque Nord is one of Plaimont’s grands vins, a blend of Gros Manseng, Petit Courbu and Petit Manseng from an amphitheatre-shaped hilltop plot.

“Light toast on the nose with hazelnut and baked apple aromas. Lovely richness on the palate with those same flavours coming through with quince and cream but freshness to balance. Detailed and with good depth. Mineral crunch and long creamy finish. Tastes like good white Burgundy. ”

Corney & Barrow

RRP £39.50 ABV 14%

White wines

Famille Hugel Gewürztraminer Vendange Tardive Alsace, France 2014

Among many other accomplishments, the Hugel family were famously pioneers of the region’s late-harvest (vendange tardive) wines. As orginators, they have always seen the importance of safeguarding high standards in VT production, and the late Jean “Johnny” Hugel was instrumental in pushing through the “firm but fair” regulations that govern their production in Alsace.

This Gewürztraminer is the typically “gorgeous” result of Hugel’s meticulous approach.

“Soft spice, lychee and pear aromas; a slightly oily texture, with lemon and apple on the palate. Beautifully textured and balanced,” the judges said.

Fells

RRP £27.49 ABV 11%

Joseph Mellot Sancerre La Chatellenie

Sancerre, France 2022

With winemaking roots in the region going back to the 1500s, the Mellot name is all but synonymous with Sancerre, and today the family-run firm remains one of the largest and most influential producers in the Loire.

All the fruit for this classic Loire Sauvignon comes from the 22ha La Chatellenie vineyard, which, according to the family, has “ancient soils from the Cretaceous period. This flint-rich clay imparts the subtle hint of gun-flint.”

“Attractive nose of grapefuit and lime zest,” the judges said. “Flavours of green apple and gooseberry come through on the palate which is driven by crisp acidity and a flinty mineral note that continues on to the finish. ”

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £25 ABV 13.5%

Louis Jadot Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Prouges

Pouilly-Fuissé, Burgundy, France

2020

The second white from the estimable Burgundy grandees Louis Jadot comes from one of the leading domaines in Pouilly-Fuissé, based in the heart of the village of Fuissé.

The Chardonnay grapes come from a 2ha vineyard on limestone soil, where the vines are aged between 17 and 67 years. Fermentation and ageing takes in a mix of new, one- and twoyear-old barrels.

“This shows subtle citrus and tropical fruits and delicious, well-integrated oak. Instantly comes across as refined, well made and serious. Expensive, but all the best things are; this is actually very good value,” the judges said.

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £50.80 ABV 14%

Domaine de Peras La Guerre des Bouchons Blanc

Languedoc, France 2022

As importer Top Selection says, “finding quality entry-level wine is always a challenge” – all the more so in the current inflationary environment. It’s a situation that makes the wines of producers such as Mathieu Merlet of Domaine du Péras in Abeilhan, 15km north of Béziers, all the more valuable.

For this eye-catchingly named brand, Merlet brings his usual winemaking approach, which is to say it’s all about the beautifully preserved varietal character of the Chardonnay and Viognier fruit. “Really good, authentic southern French dry white, with a mix of bright peachy fruit in a clean and accessible style. Really good ripeness and balance, ” the judges said.

Top Selection

RRP £13.49 ABV 13%

Braun Pfalz Riesling Trocken Unikat Pfalz, Germany 2020

Founded in the 1970s, when two (unrelated) Braun families brought their businesses in Ellerstadt and Meckenheim together under one roof, this innovative Pfalz producer continues to impress under the grandchildren of the founders.

This Riesling is part of the family’s top Unikat range, which the company says “stands for uncompromising quality”. In this case that means sourcing fruit from the best plots and giving the juice extended ageing on the lees.

“Excellent combination of weight and zesty brightness, in which the lime zest and lime juice is married to ripe peach and a touch of something herbal,” the judges said. “Would appeal to Riesling fans and sceptics alike.”

Marcato Direct

RRP £24 ABV 13%

Aoton Roditis Attica Attica, Greece 2020

Aoton means “best in class” in ancient Greek, and this family winery, run by winemaker Sotiris Gkinis, has set out to be just that from its base in Spata in the heart of the central plane between Athens and the eastern coast of Attica. Gkinis’s work revolves around the revival of his 10ha family vineyard, where he works exclusively with three local varieties, among them Roditis.

“Beautiful golden colour with a complex nose of peach, pineapple, honey and white flowers,” the judges said.

“The palate is richly textured and shows a wonderful purity of fruit alongside some subtle resinous notes. A superbly individual wine and a must-buy for indies at this price.”

Southern Wine Roads

RRP £22 ABV 13.5%

Donnafugata Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria

Sicily, Italy 2021

Described by Liberty as “a modern take on the classic Moscato passito”, and taking its name from the Arabic “son of the wind”, a reference to the gusts that sweep around the island of Pantelleria, Donnafugata’s outstanding sweet wine is made from Zibbibo sourced from shortpruned vineyards planted in traditional style in hollows in the ground.

The vinification sees late-ripening grapes chilled and pressed and added at intervals to the dried grapes.

“A simply magnificent sweet wine with an array of flavours that runs from fresh peach to caramel and honey and a long, long finish – just a joy to drink,” said the judges.

Liberty Wines

RRP £93.99 ABV 14.5%

Vigneti del Vulture

Pipoli Bianco

Acerenza, Basilicata, Italy 2022

Best known for his work at the large Farnese group, Valentino Sciotti assumed control of the small co-operative Vigneti del Vulture in 2008. Thanks to the work of winemaker Danilo Gizzi, helped by consultant winemaker Alberto Antonini, it now produces a range of high-quality wines based on local varieties.

For this blend of Greco and Fiano, the fruit is sourced from low-trained vines at up to 800m altitude on the slopes of Mount Vulture, for a wine that captured the judges’ attention with “jasmine, lime, peaches and honey. Sleek and sophisticated, a lovely balance and a wine to enjoy. A real gateway to the region. More please!”

Liberty Wines

RRP £13.49 ABV 13%

Do customers agree with the professionals?

Norfolk punters get a chance to do some blind tasting

After judging his allocated flights, Sam Howard at HarperWells in Norwich put on a blind tasting for a group of customers in the evening.

“It gave an insight into judging for our customers, so they could see some of the decision processes that we make,” he says. “We kept everything blind bagged. They knew the country, the main style, and the price. It was a walk-around tasting and they just dipped in and out, according to what they wanted to try.

“We explained there were no 70-point wines in the room, because they just don’t really exist anymore, and if there’s a 100-point wine in there, you’re incredibly lucky. I asked them to just bear in mind what a 100-point wine might actually look like. Of course, when we got the scores in, there were still some that were scored in the low 70s, and the really high 90s. But the interesting thing is when we averaged everything out, the score from the room was always within like one or two points of my actual score. I think it just highlighted that good wines will always stand out.

“What’s probably more interesting, from my perspective, is the wines which they wanted to taste and score, and the ones that they didn’t. I think every single person there tasted a Chablis. But there was a Californian Merlot that nobody tried – I don’t know if that’s the Sideways effect.

“Right at the end, when there was just a few of us, we did a ‘reveal’ on certain wines. People were pleasantly surprised in some cases and then sort of shocked in others. The packaging makes a real difference.”

White wines

Miopasso Grillo Appassimento

Sicily, Italy 2021

With vineyards in top sites in the Veneto, Abruzzo, Puglia, Sicily, Tuscany and Piedmont, The Wine People is one of Italy’s most forwardlooking wine producers, priding itself on its sustainable and organic commitments, and a “market-oriented” approach.

Its Miopasso range is designed to showcase the best of southern Italy’s indigenous grape varieties in modern wines, with this Grillo from Sicily getting added depth and interest from some dried-grape components.

“Bold and rich, with a deep yellow colour,” the judges said.

“There are apricot notes and it’s distinctively grapey with blood orange and a nice bitter twist to the finish. Excellent value for money.”

North South Wines

RRP £11.99

ABV 13.5%

Zamichele Lugana

Lugana, Italy 2021

The Zamichele family have been farming for more than a century in the gentle hills around Peschiera, Sirmione and Pozzolengo. That experience has given them what they call “total respect for the surrounding land, flora and wildlife” – and has informed the loving care they bring to their vineyards and wines.

For this Lugana, the 100% Turbiana is handharvested in small crates, crushed and gently pressed before vinification and ageing in stainless steel.

“A delightfully subtle floral note gives way to succulent peachy and slightly exotic fruit on the palate,” the judges said.

“Really like the graceful acidity – gentle but full of flavour, and all at a good price.”

Marcato Direct

RRP £17.50

ABV 13%

Feudo Antico Pecorino Biologico Tullum, Abruzzo, Italy 2021

The Tullum DOCG has two significant claims to fame: it is the smallest DOP in Italy, and the only one of its kind in Abruzzo.

It’s also home to the impressive Feudo Antico, which has 15ha of vines here, all of which are certified with Italy’s most advanced sustainability project, Magis.

Feudo Antico prefers not to use oak in any of its wines, and this Pecorino, made from hillside vines grown at 200m above sea level, is no exception, with depth and creaminess being granted by six months’ ageing on fine lees.

“A beautifully judged mix of the herbal and the citrussy, with a touch of peachy fleshiness,” the judges said. “Elegant and focused acidity, long clean finish – a great food wine.”

Alliance Wine

RRP £20.99 ABV 13.5%

San Marzano Edda Lei Bianco

Puglia, Italy 2021

Founded by a group of 19 growers in 1962, Puglia’s San Marzano co-operative is no stranger to awards, picking up several Top 100 placings over the years, and, in 2021, being named Cooperative Winery of the Year by Itay’s leading wine magazine, Gambero Rosso

Arguably best known for its reds, San Marzano is equally adept at whites such as this unusual blend of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Fiano and 20% Moscatello Selvatico, which is fermented and aged on fine lees for months in barrique.

“Straw gold with a green tinge, this has citrus and some butterscotch on the nose,” the judges said. “Full on the palate with Chardonnay evident and tropical, yet refreshing, fruit. A touch of lime. Good balance, moreish and versatile. Could become a favourite.”

Hallgarten

& Novum Wines

RRP £20.25 ABV 13.5%

Symington Family Estates Pequeno Dilema

Douro, Portugal 2020

“Is it possible to produce an elegant white wine from a region renowned for its Ports?”

That was the question that the family behind some of the finest Ports, and latterly red table wines, in the Douro had long pondered.

The search for a positive answer by winemakers Charles Symington and Pedro Correia narrowed down to two of the family’s finest high-altitude vineyards: Tapadinha at 580m in the Torto Valley, and Chões at 520m in the Pinhão Valley.

“Well balanced with a lovely creamy start and mid-palate … delicate citrus flesh and a nice crisp tart finish with lingering green pepper and spice,” the judges said. “A grown-up wine that justifies its price tag.”

Fells

RRP £25.99 ABV 14%

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance

Constantia, South Africa 2019

One of the world’s most celebrated sweet wines, Vin de Constance has a history dating back to 1685, and by the 18th century had been taken up as the preferred tipple of the aristocracy. The historic estate vineyards are planted between 70m and 343m above sea level, with the nearby ocean bringing cooling breezes to enable the perfect ripening of the naturally raisined Muscat de Frontignan grapes.

“Perfect balance between the fruity apricot, pineapple and guava notes, honeyed sweetness and the acidity,” the judges said. “There is bitter orange on the long finish that offsets everything to give a delicious end note. Pretty much perfect. A lot of people say they don’t like sweet wines, if this doesn’t change their mind then nothing will.”

Mentzendorff

RRP £64.50 ABV 13.89%

White wines

Idun Renaissance Elgin, South South Africa 2019

A small, boutique winery based in the coolerclimate enclave of Elgin, Idun is the work of a family of French-Danish origins from Mauritius who, according to importer Vindependents, “strive to produce wines that reflect their origin”.

The origins for this Chardonnay are lowyielding vines planted on iron-rich clay and cobble soils at 200m above sea level, a few kilometres from the Atlantic. Made with natural yeast, it is aged for eight months in French oak.

“Very classic in style, with matchstick and toast on the nose. Incredibly rich with good fruit flavours of apple, pear, and a hint of ripe peach. Oaky, toasty, and a touch of acidity. All well integrated. If this was French it would be three times the price. Excellent.”

Vindependents

RRP £24 ABV 13.5%

Swartland Winery Bush Vines Chenin Blanc

Swartland, South Africa 2021

Swartland Winery is one of the most important players in the wild and fashionable eponymous South African region, and it works closely with importer Hallgarten & Novum Wines to produce a range that matches the demands of the UK independent retail customer palate.

Sourced from bush vines aged between 25 and 30 years old, 60% of the wine is fermented in stainless steel and 40% in French barriques, with ageing on the fine lees for six months.

“Just loving the classic Cape Chenin style,” the judges said. “Big, rich flavours of vanilla and tarte tatin and just a touch of tropical fruit, but great cut-and-thrust from the acidity and really good length.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £17.49 ABV 14%

Iona Elgin Highlands Sauvignon Blanc

Elgin, South Africa 2022

Wine number two from Elgin in this year’s Top 100 picked up the Best Value White Trophy last year with its 2021 vintage.

The latest vintage is another masterclass in vibrant, verdant cool Cape Sauvignon Blanc from Iona founder and winemaking driving force Andrew Gunn, with a 4% portion of oakfermented Semillon adding complexity and depth to the Sauvignon, which is aged for five months on the gross lees.

“An outstanding Sauvignon Blanc,” the judges said. “Gently herbal, with blackcurrant and blackcurrant leaf and restrained elderflower. Lovely gently penetrating citrussy acidity, but depth and richness too. Great value.”

Alliance Wine

RRP £15.99 ABV 13.5%

Bodegas Ondarre Valdebaron Rioja Blanco

Rioja, Spain 2021

Since being officially permitted for use in white Rioja by the Consejo in 2007, Tempranillo Blanco has been responsible for a number of the region’s most interesting white wines.

The source for this example is a handful of sites on steep slopes between 520m and 690m above sea level on the northern bank of the Ebro. Fermented in French oak barrels, and aged in a mix of French and American oak for a further four months, this was the “wine of the contest” for one judge.

“Beautifully fresh with a lovely creamy mouth feel balanced with a nice acidity. Citrus, melon, stone fruit with a touch of herbaceousness; beautiful. I can’t believe it’s only £12.99!”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £12.99 ABV 13.5%

Gómez Cruzado Rioja Blanco 2 Año Rioja, Spain 2021

Founded in the spiritual heart of Rioja Alta in Haro in 1886, and owned by the Baños family, Gómez Cruzado has been run with panache by David González for the past 10 years.

For this wine, which takes its name from a traditional term for a white wine released in the second year after vintage, González blends Viura and Tempranillo Blanco grapes from a single, high-altitude plot, with a portion aged on its lees in oak and half aged on lees in concrete.

“Loads going on in this one, with melon and even something floral joined by toasty oaky notes and the rich creaminess offset by apple and citrus acidity,” said the judges.

“I’m thinking white Burgundy class, but at nothing like the price.”

Boutinot

RRP £16.99 ABV 13.5%

Familia Martínez Bujanda Finca Antigua Viura Sobre Lías

La Mancha, Spain 2021

A name that is synonymous with Rioja, where the family have been making wine since the 19th century, Martinéz Bujanda made a bold new step around the turn of the millennium, after acquiring an estate in unfashionable La Mancha.

The family could see the enormous potential of the site, which, at 900m, benefits from unusually high altitude, as well as having limestone soils.

The wines they have since produced have certainly made good on the potential, with this “amazing value” white, made with extensive ageing on lees, impressing with its “delightful blossom character and succulent peach-filled palate. Great concentration and balance; this is a real find.”

Berkmann Wine Cellars

RRP £14 ABV 12.5%

Old Stage Chardonnay

Monterey, California 2019

With some 290ha of vineyards in prime coolclimate sites, the Franscioni family business, now run by the fourth generation, is a significant presence in northern Monterey, selling fruit to many of California’s biggest names.

The family also take advantage of their superb Chardonnay and Pinot Noir holdings to make their own impressive line of wines, among them this Chardonnay, which uses fruit from the family’s Grava vineyard, close to the Gabilan Mountain Range.

“It’s a wine that offers Californian sun but without any gloop or excessive ripeness,” the judges said. “Gorgeous fruit in the stone fruit line, supported by just the right amount of toasty, creamy oak. A real crowd-pleaser without dumbing anything down.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £20.25 ABV 14%

Andrew Murray Vineyards Viognier

Santa Barbara County, California, USA 2021

Andrew Murray’s love affair with Rhône grape varieties is now well into its fourth decade, having begun during a trip to France while he was still a paleontology student in the 1980s.

His Syrahs are among the best in California, but he is also a dab hand at Viognier, which here is sourced from the cool coastal vineyards of Santa Barbara County.

Fermented in a mix of stainless steel and old barrels, and then aged in neutral oak, the wine has “an effortless fleshy apricot richness, and lovely honeysuckle and jasmine characters”, the judges said. “Fills the mouth with gorgeous sunny fruit but leaves it clean and ready for another sip.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £29.99 ABV 13.5%

White and red wines

Norton Ridge Chardonnay California, USA 2021

A brand that benefits from coast-to-coast expertise, Norton Ridge was developed by wine buyers in New York who were, according to UK importer Propeller, “looking for benchmark, varietally correct Californian wines they could sell in their stores and restaurants”.

Price was also important, to enable them to compete with the “big brands they all knew and despised”.

According to the Top 100 judges, it’s a case of mission very much accomplished in the case of this “incredible value” unoaked Chardonnay.

“Attractive ripe tropical nose and a touch of white blossom,” they said. “Super clean, fruit singing; creamy texture. Ripe honeydew melon, citrus, blossom. Oak in the background, very much in check. Very nice finish.”

Propeller

RRP £14.95 ABV 13%

Matervini Viña Canota Malbec Los Chacayes

Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2017

Former Achaval Ferrer winemakers Santiago Achaval and Roberto Cipresso are the men behind the high-achieving Matervini, which the duo founded in 2008 with the avowed intention of producing Malbecs across a range of terroirs.

The Malbec for Viña Cantoa comes from a 5ha plot of seven-year-old vines in the Canota Valley, in the pre-Cordillera foothills of Las Heras, Mendoza, which is fermented in concrete vats and aged for 15 months in French oak barriques.

“This wine is alive,” the judges said. “There is so much going on: black fruit, earthy minerality, tomato leaf, violets, dancing acidity, the lot. A Malbec-worshipper’s holy grail.”

Ucopia Wines

RRP £59 ABV 14.5%

Moorooduc Estate

Robinson Pinot Noir

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia 2021

Moorooduc Estate celebrated its 40th anniversary last year, a good moment to reflect on the progress made in both the winery and the Mornington Peninsula more generally since Richard and Jill McIntyre set up shop in 1982. Both are now at the forefront of Australian Pinot Noir, with Moorooduc’s philosophy of minimal chemicals in the vineyard and winery paying off in wines such as this “memorable” single-vineyard bottling from a vineyard on the Old Moorooduc Road.

“So fragrant and pretty on the nose, with violets and roses and red berries,” the judges said. “On the palate it’s elegant to the max, with the finest tannins known to humanity.”

Vindependents

RRP £38.50 ABV 13.5%

Irvine Estate Old Vine Shiraz

Barossa Valley, Australia 2019

Few producers can claim a deeper connection to a region than the Miles family of Irvine Wines. Having planted their first Shiraz vines in the Barossa Valley in 1867, current, fourthgeneration vigneron Peter Miles can draw on more than 150 years of accumulated experience.

Miles now farms some 162ha in the Barossa, much of it planted to very old vines such as the Shiraz used for this Top 100-winning red, which has been aged for 18 months in 30% new French oak before resting for a further six months in bottle before release.

“Appealing nose with lots of savoury spice notes; liquorice, eucalyptus, black pepper, allspice and some cola. The palate is full of rich fruit with layers of spice. The finish is long and complex. A great example of Barossa Shiraz.”

Cachet Wine

RRP £41.99 ABV 14.5%

Dalrymple Vineyards Pinot Noir

Tasmania, Australia 2020

The Dalrymple story begins with one Dr Bertel Sundstrup, who uncovered this “perfect” cool-climate site in the Piper’s River region of Tasmania in 1987.

Since 2007, it’s been in the hands of the HillSmith family of Yalumba fame, and as you’d expect from one of Australia’s first families of wine, the constant TLC means the estate is regularly ranked among Australia’s best producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The flagship Pinot is a blend of parcels from Dalrymple’s Pipers River and Coal River Valley vineyards, with fruit from growers at Swansea and Ouse.

“As gorgeous to look at as it is to smell and taste,” the judges said. “Weaves together all the Pinot loveliness of red fruit, mushroom savouries and Asian spices. Good texture, too!”

Fells

RRP £32.99 ABV 13.5%

Langmeil Valley Floor Shiraz

Barossa Valley, Australia 2019

Owned and run for six generations by the Lindner family, Langemeil is an historic Barossa producer that can trace its beginnings in the region to 1842.

Among other claims to fame, the family have what is believed to be the world’s oldest Shiraz vineyard, The Freedom, which was planted in 1843. Far from being stuck in the past, however, Langemeil produces a broad range of modern wines, among them this blend of premium fruit from the famous Valley Floor strip.

“Vanilla, milk chocolate and blackberries. Very appealing. Rich chocolate and black cherry on the palate. Lots of interest,” the judges said.

“Layers of flavour. Finishes clean and long. A good example of Barossa Shiraz and priced well. Customers would be happy with this.”

Berkmann Wine Cellars

RRP £24 ABV 14.5%

Henschke Keyneton Euphonium

Barossa Shiraz/Cabernet

Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc

Barossa Valley, Australia 2018

Wine number two in the Top 100 list for Aussie first-growth Henschke this year is a blend of Shiraz from up to 50-year-old vines in the Eden and Barossa Valleys, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from selected vineyards in both regions, some of which were planted by Cyril Henschke at his Eden Valley property in the 1960s.

“Beautiful, intense colour of crimson to violet,” the judges said. “Dark fruit and pepper on the nose, subtle oak and well integrated black fruit and spice flavours. Fine tannin and good acidity suggests ageability. Lovely!”

Liberty Wines

RRP £44.99 ABV 14.5%

Russell & Suitor Son of a Bull Pinot Noir

Tasmania, Australia 2022

Winemaker Alex Russell has had a long and fascinating career in Australian wine which has seen him develop a name for working with alternative varieties – a passion he still tends to at his projects in Riverland and Mildura.

Since 2019, however, he has turned his hand to cool-climate winemaking in the Pipers River region of Tasmania, with Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and, in this case, Pinot Noir, all in the mix.

“Great to see quality Pinot from Tasmania at this sort of price, in a style that has lots of appeal,” the judges said. “It’s a mid-weight wine with light tannins and crisp acidity giving plenty of lift to the raspberry and cherry fruit.”

Milestone Wines

RRP £17.99 ABV 14.5%

Red wines

Scotchmans Hill Pinot Noir

Geelong, Victoria, Australia 2020

A pioneer of Geelong’s Bellarine Peninsula since setting up in the region in 1979, and with a first vintage in 1982, Scotchmans Hill has taken advantage of the cool maritime climate to become one of Australia’s leading Pinot producers, earning a spot on James Halliday’s list of Top 100 Australian Wineries in the process.

And there’s another Top 100 position for this “superb” Pinot Noir, which features 15% whole bunch and which is aged for 12 months in a mix of new to four-year-old French oak barriques.

“There’s a very attractive savoury, mushroomy quality to the nose here that will certainly appeal to Burgundy lovers,” the judges said.

“And that dovetails beautifully with the red fruit – raspberry and cherry and sappy tannins.”

Cachet Wine

RRP £26.99

ABV 14.5%

Wills Domain Paladin Hill Matrix

Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia 2021

Food and wine are throughly intertwined at Margaret River’s Wills Domain, which is home to both a Halliday 5 Red Star winery and a multiaward-winning restaurant.

The Paladin Hill Matrix, which the producer recommends having with roasted Châteaubriand with mushroom jus and pommes puree, is a Cabernet blend from the Wills Domain vineyard in Yallingup. Matured in barrel then left for a further 18 months before being blended, filtered, and bottled, it offers “dark fruits and vanilla crumble”, the judges said.

“Beautifully balanced, lovely tannins. Butter, vanilla, toast, cinnamon, brambles, green pepper and a hint of liquorice.”

Propeller

RRP £48 ABV 14.5%

Ventisquero Wine Estates Obliqua

Apalta, Colchagua, Chile 2019

One of Chile’s most adventurous producers, Ventisquero has been at the forefront of making a genuinely fine wine from Carmenère, with Obliqua being sourced from vines planted by the company in 2001.

The vines occupy a special plot, which is planted at 453m above sea level on deep red clay and a high content of colluvial stones and surrounded by two large ravines in the company’s vineyard in Apalta, Colchagua.

Aged for 22 months in a mix of fine-grained, second-use 300-litre French oak barrels and foudres, it is a “very serious but beautifully made and elegant red”, the judges said.

“Rich black berries on the nose. Velvety , silky balanced. Long fruit. Subtle oak.”

North South Wines

RRP £44.99 ABV 14%

Undurraga Cabernet Franc TH

Maipo, Chile 2020

Cabernet Franc is emerging as a star grape variety on both sides of the Andes, with this example from the enterprising Undurraga, among the best of the new Chilean breed.

It’s the fruit of Undurraga winemaker Rafael Urrejola’s long and detailed research into Chile’s varied terroirs, which have informed a number of minimal-intervention wines presented under the company’s TH, or Terroir Hunter, label.

Here 15% Merlot joins the 85% Cabernet Franc from a vineyard specifically planted for the range at Catemito in Maipo.

“A Cabernet Franc of intensity and depth, in a Right Bank Bordeaux stylee,” the Top 100 judges said.

“Lots of dark fruit and a bit of pencil shaving, oak and some freshness. Good work!”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £22.99 ABV 13.5%

Red wines

Domaine de la Rochelièrre Fitou Noblesse du Temps

Fitou, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2019

Domaine de la Rochelièrre is overseen by the Fabre family, who have had a long and deep commitment to environmentally-friendly viticulture, using organic methods since 1979, and having recently been granted HVE sustainability accreditation.

The green approach makes for quality wines that aim to fully reflect the Fitou terroir, such as the Noblesse du Temps cuvée, a blend of 50% Mourvèdre, 30% Carignan and 20% Grenache from the estate vineyard.

“Deep colour in the glass”, the judges said. “Cassis, herbal notes, sweet spice. Big, balanced, ripe, and multi-dimensional. Ripe chewy tannins, balanced and a very long finish.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £30.75 ABV 15%

Château de Nalys Saintes Pierres de Nalys Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France 2019

One of the key quality players in the Rhône, Guigal is strongly associated with the northern part of the valley, where the family firm orginated. But it applies the same attention to detail to wines they produce elsewhere in the Rhône, not least in the highly rated Châteuneufdu-Pape wines from Château de Nalys.

A classic Grenache-led multi-varietal blend from three different terroirs with vines averaging 45 years of age, the wine is aged for 18 months in stainless steel and foudres (10%). “Rich fruits of the forest and chocolate and garrigue notes,” the judges said. “Really rich, deep and velvety and just hitting all the right notes.”

Fells

RRP £45.99 ABV 14.5%

André Brunel Châteauneuf-duPape Les Cailloux

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France 2020

With roots in the region dating back to the 18th century, André Brunel and family now have some 22ha of vines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, as well as another 40ha in Côtes du Rhône.

With André himself now joined by son Fabrice, the family continues to make some of the finest wines in the region, starting with this blend of 65% Grenache, 17% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and 3% Cinsault, sourced from numerous plots in a bid for complexity.

These efforts were certainly appreciated by the Wine Merchant Top 100 judges, who loved the “multi-layered” character, with “cherries, oregano, rosemary, and lovely depth of fruit concentration”.

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £46.75 ABV 14.5%

Domaine Claude Maréchal

Pommard La Chanière

Pommard, Burgundy, France 2021

A former protégé and friend of the celebrated late Burgundy producer Henri Jayer, Claude Maréchal is a winemaker with a natural approach, with no chemical fertilisers, and everything hand-picked, often later than the average in each of the appellations in which the domaine has holdings.

The approach clearly works in Pommard, with this cuvée delighting the judges.

“Beautifully balanced Pinot, with red fruit that grabs your attention, and gentle spice and earthy notes. Great, food-friendly acidity and there are cloves and spice to elevate in the background.

“A class act. This would work at the higher end of an independent’s Burgundy section.”

Vindependents

RRP £52 ABV 13%

Domaine Belleville Santenay Les Hâtes

Santenay, Burgundy 2020

Founded in the village of Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise at the beginning of the 20th century, Domaine Belleville now has a collection of 18ha of primely located vineyards from Gevrey-Chambertin to Mercurey, including a plot of 35-year-old vines on clay-limestone soils in the Les Hâtes climat in Santenay.

Aged for 16 months in barrique, of which 35% is new, this Pinot Noir was highly rated by the Top 100 judges.

“Lovely deep red fruit with some leafy backnotes and a delightful summery freshness,” they said.

“Very quaffable now and it feels like it has lots of development to come. Would very happily recommend to discerning Burgundy drinkers.”

Vindependents

RRP £39.50 ABV 13.5%

Vignobles St Didier Parnac Prieuré de Cénac Les Vignes St

Didier Parnac Cahors

Cahors, France 2019

Former Bordeaux merchant Hervé Joyaux Fabre had already made a success of Malbec with his multi-award-winning versions of the grape in Argentina before setting up shop in the variety’s spiritual home in Cahors. Aalong with a group of friends and investors, he acquired Vignobles St Didier Parnac in 2017.

After a handful of vintages, Fabre has another hit on his hands, with the judges admiring the “deep colour and delicious mix of the fruity, the floral, and the savoury” in this 100% Malbec. “There is a touch of chocolate, too, and the tannins work with nice texture that is ripe and chewy, and mineral freshness on the finish.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £16.25 ABV 13.5%

The Wine Merchant Top 100 and charity

More good causes feel the benefit of judges’ generosity

Judging in The Wine Merchant Top 100 is an arduous and timeconsuming business. We pay all our judges £100 as a thank-you for their efforts.

Merchants are very welcome to bank the cash – time is money, after all, and we don’t expect anybody to work for free. But we also know that several of our judges donate their fees to good causes.

Some merchants ask us to send the money directly to their chosen charities. This year these included:

• Ryedale Community Food Bank, Malton, Yorkshire

• Common Ground Against Homelessness, Edinburgh

• The Alzheimers Society

• 91 Ways, Bristol

• Cornwall Air Ambulance

• Hertfordshire Mind Network

• Children’s Air Ambulance

• The Drinks Trust

• Cavendish Cancer Care

Surplus wines from the judging which are returned to The Wine Merchant office also generate cash for good causes. Many are donated to local groups for fundraising activities, which means we have been able to help, in a small way, all sorts of institutions in our community over the past decade.

Red wines

Château de Rhodes Chevalier de Rhodes Gaillac Rouge Gaillac, France 2019

Former French national rugby team star turned financier Eric Lépine switched to wine with the acquistion of the 20ha Château de Rhodes in the village of Boissel, close to Gaillac, in 2002.

Fully organic since 2011, the estate covers three very different high-quality terroirs in the Gaillac appellation, with this cuvée, a blend of the local Duras with Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, grown on clay-limestone soils with southfacing slopes.

Fermented with indigenous yeast in concrete tanks, the wine’s “concentrated but refreshingly bright red plummy fruit, with notes of blackcurrant, minerals, and a charming herbal streak” was a hit with judges. “A spicy finish; bags of character, good price, real wine.”

Boutinot

RRP £17.49 ABV 14.5%

Plaimont Producteurs Grevière

Madiran, France 2019

The influential Gascon co-operative Plaimont Producteurs has played an important role in shaping modern Madiran.

This is the south western French home of Tannat, of course, and Plaimont has learned how to tame the variety’s burly tannins, a task which is made all the easier when it is grown in the correct terroir, such as the ancient gravel-clay soils that are unique to Madiran and which are the source for this cuvée.

“This shows excellent value for a wine that has local character and charm,” the judges said. “Duck and cassoulet-ready tannins and acidity and rich forest fruit, but not too heavy as some Tannat can be. Would definitely consider stocking this.”

Gusto Wines

RRP £15.99 ABV 13%

Plaimont Producteurs La Madeleine

Saint-Mont, France 2018

As well as producing wines in the Madiran, Pacherenc and Côte de Gascogne appellations, Plaimont dominates Saint-Mont, to the point where producer and appellation are all but synonymous.

La Madeleine comes from a special plot of hilltop vines that is well over 100 years old, and was among the first to be planted post phylloxera.

It’s a wine of historical signficance, then, but, for the judges, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinenc and Tannat has enormous appeal in the here and now. “Luxurious richness of black fruit, with black cherry to the fore and plenty of tannin and concentration, but all beautifully balanced, with mineral tones,” they said.

Gusto Wines

RRP £39.99 ABV 14%

Château de Campuget Syrah 1753 Sans Sulfites

Vin de France, France 2021

Château de Campuget is one of the leading producers in the Costières de Nîmes appellation. So you might wonder why owner Frank-Lin Dalle has chosen to bottle this 100% Syrah, which is sourced from estate vineyards in the very heart of the appellation near the village of Manduel, as a Vin de France.

The reason, according to importer Hallgarten & Novum Wines, is to “distinguish the distinctive style of this wine, which has been made without sulphites”.

No matter how it’s made and labelled, it’s a wine that our judges loved. “Lovely lifted Syrah nose, bright and crunchy and full of energy, but with a silky feel, too,” they said. “Very easy to drink!”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £15.49 ABV 13%

Château de l’Ou I Love l’Ou

Côte du Roussillon Villages, France 2019

Château de l’Ou takes its name from the Catalan for egg, a tribute, according to Hallgarten & Novum Wines, to the “ovoid-shape resurgence of water at the property” in Montescot, Roussillon.

It’s owned and run by Séverine and Philippe Bourrier, who were early green viticulture pioneers in the region, converting the 26ha of vineyard (plus 4ha of olive trees) to organic when they bought it in 1998.

Their blend of 50% Marselan, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah “takes you right to the Mediterranean,” according to the judges.

“Great fruit and garrigue notes, structured ripe tannins and freshness coming through. Great value, great stuff!”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £15.99 ABV 14.5%

Domaines Paul Mas Château Lauriga Réserve Cuvée Bastien

Roussillon, France 2021

Situated between Thuir and Perpignan, Château Lauriga is one of the jewels in Jean Claude Mas’s extensive collection of Languedoc-Roussillon domaines.

The château has some 68ha of vineyards, including the remarkable 102-year-old “del Rey” site, planted on a mix of soil types and to varieties that are both traditional to the area (such as Carignan and Grenache) and are more recent arrivals (Syrah).

All three varieties are used in this red blend, which impressed the judges with its “rich mix of dark berry and blackcurrant compote and sprinkle of peppery spices. Great depth and great value.”

Domaines Paul Mas

RRP £15.99 ABV 14.5%

Domaines Paul Mas La Forge Estate Malbec

IGP Pays d’Oc, France 2022

An astute businessman as well as a brilliant winemaker, Jean-Claude Mas has always known how to identify a gap in the market.

The Forge Estate wines are a case in point, designed as they are to be a “fusion of the old and new worlds of wine,” using the best grapes from the company’s partner growers to make high-quality, well-priced varietal wines from a mix of local and big-name grape varieties, with just a touch of oak.

“So good to come across wines like this at this price, which are the bread and butter of a range,” the judges said. “Lovely mix of berry fruit compote but there’s more going on than your average Malbec with chocolate and herbal notes.”

Domaines Paul Mas

RRP £11.95 ABV 14.5%

Domaine Gardiés Mas Les Cabes Rouge

Côtes du Roussillon, France 2021

Jean Gardiés took the helm at his family’s 35ha property in the late 1990s and soon began bottling his own wines from vines that he manages organically, in recent years working alongside his son, Victor.

The famiy are based at their “home” vineyard in Tautavel, but also work the 1.5ha Mas Les Cabes estate in the Espria de l’Agly terroir, which the family purchased in 1990 and which is the source of this Syrah-Grenache-Carignan blend.

“Luxurious fruit – oodles and oodles of it, with a soft rich feel to the velvety tannins and some darker savoury tones,” the judges said.

“This is an authentic southern French red with wide appeal at a good price.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £16.75 ABV 13.5%

Red wines

Mas Bécha Barrique Rouge

Roussillon, France 2019

Winemaker Charles Perez assumed control of the Mas Bécha estate and its 25ha of vineyards towards the border with Spain in 2008, since when he has earned a reputation for handcrafted wines that reflect the local “Aspres” (arid) terroir.

The organic vineyards are spread over three hillsides at around 100m above sea level, and for this cuvée, a blend of Syrah (70%) with equal-parts Grenache and Mourvèdre, Perez opts for a gentle pressing and nine months’ ageing in a mix of new and used Bordeaux barrels.

“Inky nose, very viscous body, super balance and integration,” the judges said. “Tobacco, savoury notes, fruits, spices, cedar and liquorice, mocha … it’s a complex yet very harmonious wine with lots of power but that never feels too much. Impressive.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £25.49 ABV 15%

Ilatium Morini Valpolicella Superiore Campo Prognal

Valpolicella Superiore, Veneto, Italy 2017

A group of seven brothers and cousins runs this family business in Valpolicella, and the group has been on a roll since making the collective decision to change direction and, in the words of importer Alliance, “decided to keep the best grapes to make wine themselves”.

That fruit comes from 40ha of vineyards in Soave and, for this “beautifully made” red, Valpolicella, and matured in 350-litre oak barrels for 12 to 15 months, followed by bottle ageing.

“Plush, rich, spicy and full, but with classy northern Italian cherry and tomato acidity, nicely done and very satisfying indeed – a winter Italian feast of a wine.”

Alliance Wine

RRP £21.99 ABV 14%

Tenuta Laramè Tumlin Roero

Piedmont, Italy 2018

The quality of Nebbiolo from beyond the classic Barolo/Barbaresco zones has never been higher, with producers such as the Povero family showing just how good the grape can be in their vineyards in Roero, a Piedmontese region where the first references to Nebbiolo date back to the early 14th century.

Made from the family’s oldest vines in a hillside vineyard, the wine is aged for 24 months in Piedmontese tonneaux of Slavonian oak.

“The Nebbiolo fruit is perfumed, with notes of violets and roses balanced with a hint of sweet spice and dark berry fruits on the palate that are velvety and delicious,” the judges said. “Long-lasting finish. Terrific value and with a delicate medicinal quality.”

Vindependents

RRP £18.50 ABV 14%

Boroli Barolo Classico

Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2016

Long-term lovers of the wines of Barolo, the Boroli family of Piedmontese entrepreneurs decided to take the plunge and move into winemaking themselves when they set up their eponymous estate in the region in the 1990s.

Second generation Achille Boroli now heads up the enterprise, which takes in 10ha of vineyards shared between plots in Castiglione Falletto, Barolo and La Morra, as well as a boutique hotel, a Michelin-starred restaurant and a slick modern winery.

“Classic Barolo that is highly polished,” said the judges of the family’s Barolo Classico. “A wine that opens with a very savoury (mushroom/sousbois) attack but then features wave upon wave of deliciously elegant cherry, blackberry and mulberry fruit.”

Top Selection

RRP £39.99 ABV 14%

Celestino Pecci

Brunello di Montalcino

Montalcino, Tuscany 2018

The eponymous founder of Celestino Pecci defied his parents, and the flow of history in post-war Italy, when he rejected the life they had planned for him in white-collar jobs in the city and instead bought two farmhouses and a 40ha plot in Montalcino in 1968.

Today the business is run by Celestino’s daughter, Tiziana Pecci, who oversees the production of this cuvée from a south/south west-facing vineyard at 350m above sea level.

“Stunning nose, with deep earth and leather aromas, as well as black cherry and herbs,” the judges said. “Fine tannins and gentle acidity. Both complex and eminently drinkable. While expensive, it is a bargain for those wanting an outstanding wine at home with dinner.”

RRP £59 ABV 14.5%

Michele Chiarlo

Barolo Tortoniano

Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2019

One of the grandest names in Piedmont, Michele Chiarlo, now run by the eponymous founder’s sons Alberto and Stefano, has vines in some of the best addresses in Barolo at its disposal for its range of terroir-driven wines.

This Top 100 winner takes its name from the “Tortonian” geological area in Barolo’s La Morra and Barolo zones, where the soils are a mix of sedimentary clay, Sant’Agata marl and grey-blue sandstone.

“Reticent nose, but you can tease out raspberry, violet and boiling tar,” the judges said.

“A very fine wine, with creamy palate, sour cherry and dried cranberry flesh. Moreish.”

Hallgarten

RRP £53 ABV 14%

Red wines

Tenuta di Sesta

Brunello di Montalcino

Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy 2018

A quintessential Tuscan mixed agricultural estate, Tenuta di Sesta stretches over some 200ha of rolling terrain in which 30ha of vineyards are interspersed with olive groves and grain fields.

The estate has been run since the 1990s by Giovanni Ciacci, who was recently joined by his children Andrea and Francesca, and between them they have settled on a recipe that mixes traditional winemaking (large oak botti) with the latest viticultural ideas.

“A proper, classically styled and proportioned Brunello, with lovely fine tannic structure and fine fruit,” the judges said. “Still young, and very much a treat for years to come.”

Top Selection

RRP £44.79 ABV 14.5%

Cà dei Maghi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy 2017

Cà dei Maghi are no strangers to success in this competition, with numerous Top 100 placements over the years.

This year’s contribution from the still-risingstar Veneto estate is what the judges called a “luxuriously lovely” example of Amarone.

A classic blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara sourced from an alluvial/limestone vineyard, the grapes go through a three-month drying period and the wine is aged for 36 months in barrique.

“It is of course a big wine, with lots of cooked fruit and brambly juiciness, sweet spice and oak, but it carries itself with amazing balance and elegance, and great acidity.”

Vindependents

RRP £43.50 ABV 15.5%

Marcato Direct

& Novum Wines

Red wines

Symington Family Estates Pombal de Vesuvio Douro, Portugal 2020

This renowned and long-established Douro producer is the family behind some of the region’s greatest fortified wines. But table wines are an increasing focus too, with this red blend joining the white Pequeno Dilema, as well as this year’s Best Value Fortified Trophy-winning Graham’s Six Grapes, in a strong peformance for the Symingtons at the Top 100 2023.

A blend of 50% Touriga Nacional, 45% Touriga Franca and 5% Tinta Amarela from the Symingtons’ legendary Quinta do Vesuvio estate, it’s full of “inky fruits, dried herbs, and spice, with integrated tannins,” the judges said. “Well defined, complete with lots of layers; crunchy red fruit too. Long finish, impressive, excellent value for a very smart wine.”

Fells

RRP £23 ABV 14.5%

Quinta dos Carvalhais Dão Touriga Nacional

Dão, Portugal 2019

One of Portugal’s largest producers, Sogrape is also one of its most quality-conscious, responsible for some of the country’s finest wines in numerous regions.

The company acquired Quinta dos Carvalhais, in the Terras de Azurara sub-region of the Dão, in 1988, and has since invested heavily in both vineyard and winery, and has been instrumental in the region’s recent renaissance.

This 100% Touriga Nacional is aged for 12 months in a mix of new and old French oak barriques. “Something of Bordeaux here, with a nose of cedar, graphite, blackcurrant and floral tones,” the judges said. “The tannins are fine and powdery, with a touch of spice. Really enjoyable.”

Liberty Wines

RRP £24.99 ABV 13.5%

Esporão Reserva Red

Alentejo, Portugal 2020

Another key player in the modern history of Portuguese wine, Esporão emerged on the scene in 1973.

Today, the company has estates in the Douro and Vinho Verde, but it was a pair of wines from Alentejo, the region where it all began and with which it is still strongly associated, that wowed the Wine Merchant Top 100 judges this year.

The first is a “richly engaging but polished” blend from a 20-year-old organic vineyard planted on a granite and schist base, with a loam and clay structure, which has been aged for 12 months in a combination of French and American oak.

“Plums and berries and spice all in effect with a lovely soft sheen of sweet oak and a smooth, smooth feel,” the judges said.

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £22.30 ABV 14.5%

Esporão Colheita Red

Alentejo, Portugal 2021

In its 50 years of existence, the team at Esporão have always been conscious of their responsibilities as stewards of the land, and, as with its Reserva partner in the Top 100 this year, this “excellent value” red blend has been made from the estate’s organically-managed vineyards.

Those vineyards are planted to seven varieties that were chosen for their adaptation to the local climate and conditions, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet leading the blend in a wine that has been made with foottrodden grapes and aged in concrete tanks for six months for a fruit-forward style.

“Bright vivacious red plum, dark cherry and fruits of the forest all coming together with juicy-fruity style and some spicy notes,” the judges said. “Soft tannins – excellent value.”

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £15.65 ABV 14%

Ana Rola Wines

Rola

Vinhas Das Marias

Douro, Portugal 2019

Douro Valley native Ana Rola is one of Portugal’s most talented winemakers. She made her name at one of the Douro’s leading producers before deciding to launch her own project in 2014. Her base is Quinta de Remostias, an 18thcentury estate in Peso da Régua, in the heart of the Douro, where she makes a range of cuvées from local varieties. This Top 100 selection is named for the fact that both Ana and her best friend called their daughters Maria.

A blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Francesa, it has a “dark inky colour,” the judges said “Raspberry, strawberry, and menthol. Savoury freeze-dried raspberries, beautiful balance. Sichaun pepper. A big hug of a wine. Exceptional.”

Marta Vine

RRP £37 ABV 14.5%

Legendary Dracula Nobilis Cabernet Sauvignon & Feteasca

Neagra

Dealu Mare, Romania 2020

Romania has become an increasingly popular option for wine lovers in recent years. Much of the impetus for the growth in premium Romanian wine has come from the Dealu Mare region, the source of this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with local favourite red variety

Feteasca Neagra.

Aged for 10 months in second-fill Romanian oak, it offers a “pencil shavings nose, blackberries… it’s like opening a whole box of fresh pencils,” the judges said. “Herbal palate, liquorice, green pepper and a fresh finish. Great balance; lovely.”

Transylvania Wine

RRP £24.99 ABV 14.5%

Dominio de Atauta Parada de Atauta

Ribera del Duero, Spain 2019

If you were looking for an estate to illustrate why Ribera del Duero is such a good place to make wine, you could do worse than Dominio de Atauta.

With its 25 different terroirs in 500 plots, the 45ha Dominio de Atauta vineyard is an example of Ribera del Duero’s Burgundian level of terroir diversity: at 975m of altitude, the highest point in the region, the vineyard also benefits from Ribera’s famed diurnal variations. Finally, the vines are aged between 6o and 100 years. The result? “Elegance to the max with super bright mulberry juiciness, absolutely full of life but with a powerful darker serious side: intense, but with a great streak of acidity.”

Boutinot

RRP £24.99 ABV 14%

Marco Abella Clos Abella

Priorat, Spain 2019

The judges may change each year, but Marco Abella rarely misses out on a Top 100 award of some sort, and this year was no exception for the highly respected Priorat estate. The heartbeat of Clos Abella is the 60% Carignan component from the El Perer plot at 550m altitude, which is blended with 40% Garnacha for a wine that shows off the classic Abella combination of power and mineral refreshment.

“A very complex nose, with lots of primary and tertiary notes,” the judges said.

“Great body, lots of grippy tannins but well integrated. Loads going on, with a persistent finish. A really excellent wine – everything you want from Priorat.”

Vindependents

RRP £50 ABV 14.5%

Red wines

Finca Museum Museum Cigales Reserva Cigales, Spain 2019

Finca Museum may, as its name suggests, double up as a museum, with a collection of sculptures and paintings dating back to the 17th century. But when it comes to its main vocation as a producer of fine wines from Tinta del País (aka Tempranillo) it’s very much of the moment.

Based in the extreme continental climate of Cigales in Castilla y León, its wines are shaped by old-vine depth of flavour and balance, with this Reserva made from bush vines with an average age of more than 70 years.

“Great intensity and a mix of red and black fruit with a squirt of rosehip acidity and intriguing complex note of cola and spice,” the judges said. “Something different to liven up a Spanish range – and great value.”

Liberty Wines

RRP £22.49 ABV 14%

Casa Mariol Samso Criança

Terra Alta, Spain 2019

With a history dating back to the 1940s, Casa Mariol is well known in Catalonia for its topselling premium single-varietal vermouths. But the team are no slouches, either, when it comes to producing quality varietal wines and cavas from their vineyards in the small southern Catalonian region of Terra Alta.

Samsó, aka Cariñena, aka Carignan, is one of the most important grape varieties in the region (and for Casa Mariol), and for this crianza it’s given what the company calls “traditional” oakageing.

“Deep red in colour, this has concentrated baked fruit and spices,” the judges said.

“Lovely concentrated flavours of cassis, candied fruit peel, mineral spice, chewy tannins – and hard to ignore the very appealing price point.”

Top Selection

RRP £14.99 ABV 14%

Félix Callejo Parajes de Callejo

Ribera del Duero, Spain 2020

A family-run winery established in 1989, and now run by the four children of the founding couple (including award-winning winemakers José Félix and Noelia Callejo), Félix Callejo is one of a wave of Ribera del Duero estates looking to express the region’s varied terroirs. In their case it’s the area around the village of Sotillo de la Ribera that’s the focus, with this wine a blend of south-facing plots on a mix of limestone and loamy clay soils at 900m altitude. Aged for 18 months in large oak barrels after a fermentation with natural yeasts, it’s “a beautifully expressive wine with a gorgeous floral-edged nose and so much pure vivid mulberry fruit,” the judges said. “Touches of spice, textured tannins and excellent freshness. Serious but very drinkable.”

Moreno Wines

RRP £29 ABV 14.5%

Bodega Enate Reserva

Somontano, Aragon, Spain 2015

“The art of wine, the wine of art,” is Bodega Enate’s strapline, a reference the Somontano estate’s twin convictions, and which have informed the creation of a modern winery and modern art gallery.

Each of the estate’s wines features a label with a painting by an artist in its collection, although the judges weren’t aware of the work of contemporary Spanish artist José Manuel Broto as they tasted and then gave out their high scores to this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 18 months in new French oak barriques.

“Brick red, garnet rim. Smart Cabernet fruit ageing gracefully and showing its full potential,” the judges said. “Sweet spice, dried herbs, concentrated red/black fruits, fine balanced tannins. Drinking beautifully now.”

Daniel Lambert Wines

RRP £22 ABV 14.5%

Kayra Öküzgözü Versus Anatolia, Turkey 2019

The first Turkish wine to secure a place in the Wine Merchant Top 100 is the work of a leader of the country’s ongoing vinous renaissance. Working with consultant winemaker Daniel O’Donnell, Kayra has invested heavily in its vineyards and two wineries, and is using a mix of indigenous and international varieties for its range of fine award-winning wines.

Here it’s the native Öküzgözü that is used to express the terroir of Anatolia, which is considered to be one of the original birthplaces of wine production.

Aged for 18 months in a mix of French and American oak, it’s “a gorgeous surprise”, the judges said. “It has something of top Spanish reds in its mix of oak and deep, dark fruit on the lingering palate with herbs and spice. High quality.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £37.25 ABV 13%

Sanford Pinot Noir Sta Rita Hills

Sta Rita Hills, California, USA 2020

The story of Sanford begins in 1971, when Richard Sanford and Michael Benedict planted the celebrated Sanford & Benedict vineyard. After the two went their separate ways in 1980, Sanford planted the adjacent La Rinconada vineyard. In 2007, the Terlato family took over, uniting the two vineyards, and continuing to make some of California’s finest cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

A blend of fruit from Sanford and La Rinconada, the estate Pinot Noir is aged for 11 months in French oak, of which 25% is new.

“Grown-up Pinot with attractive florals and a seam of gentle pepper spice running through the delightful red fruit – strawberries, tinned and fresh, raspberries, cherries,” the judges said. “Lovely bite and crisp acidity. Very harmonious.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £49 ABV 13.5%

Terlato Wines The Federalist Zinfandel, Lodi, California Lodi, California, USA 2019

The distinctive labels of Terlato Wines’ The Federalist series each feature a famous American statesman on the label, the idea being, in the words of UK importer ABS Wine Agencies, that “these are distinctly American craft wines wrought with as much character and bold spirit” as the men on the label.

The USA’s first president, George Washington, is the man looking out from this prime cut of Zinfandel from California’s best and most historic site for the variety, Lodi.

“A big ol’ wine”, the judges said, “but a very good one indeed. Bright red fruits over candied blackberry and damson, sweet spices. Lovely opulent but not overdone Zinfandel.”

Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies

RRP £25.25 ABV 15%

Fortified wines

Henriques & Henriques 15 Year Old Verdelho Madeira

Madeira, Portugal NV

Since its foundation in 1850, Henriques & Henriques has been unusual in Madeira for having always seen the value of owning its own vineyards – a tradition that continues today under master blender Humberto Jardím.

Jardím also benefits from operating from a purpose-built winery (H&H was the first to build one on the island in 1992) and for this 15 Year Old blend he uses the canteiro process in which the wine is heated naturally in barrels “to enhance concentration and consistency”.

“A toffee hit gives way to figs and earthiness, then lifts off with a hit of acidity, followed by rich hazelnuts,” the judges said. “Very complex and worth the money. We would stock this as an excellent example of Madeira.”

Mentzendorff

RRP £29 ABV 19%

Adega Cooperativa de Favaios Moscatel de Favaios 10 Year Old

Cima Corga, Douro, Portugal NV

In a region that is responsible for one of the world’s most famous examples of the combination of spirit and wine, it’s easy to overlook the fact the Douro has other strings than Port to its fortified bow.

This “totally brilliant” sweet Muscat is a case in point. Made only from the best Moscatel grapes in the best vintages, it is fermented for three days with plenty of skin contact, before the addition of the spirit to stop the fermentation, followed by a further five to six days of maceration, and then long ageing in barrel.

“Wow!” said our judges. “Candied peel, aromatic fruits and caramel leading to toasted hazelnuts and a super-tasty tangy candied peel and sultanas on the long finish.”

Marta Vine

RRP £26.80

ABV 17%

Valdespino VOS & VORS Collection Oloroso Solera 1842 VOS Sherry

Jerez, Spain NV

The second wine from Valdespino’s collection of wines with extended average ageing of 20 years (VOS) and 30 years (VORS) in this year’s Top 100 is a “hedonistic” Oloroso.

Aged 100% oxidatively with an 8%-10% dose of Pedro Ximenez added at the halfway point of its 20-year ageing journey, before the blend is returned to complete the process in solera, the 1842 finishes up with 50g-60g of residual sugar in the finished bottle.

“Candied orange peel, honey, sweet spice, clove. Complex and intense,” the judges said. “Lovely, sticky-toffee pudding flavours, without being cloyingly sweet. World class!”

Liberty Wines

RRP £46.99 ABV 21%

Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanillia En Rama Sherry

Jerez, Spain NV

One of the wine world’s most intriguing endeavours, Equipo Navazos is the project of a group of Sherry-loving professionals who wanted to rescue the reputation of the category by seeking out neglected soleras and casks and bottling them in limited runs.

For this Manzanilla, the team worked with Eduardo Ojeda at leading Manzanilla bodega La Guita, a process which involved selecting 60 casks from a total of 12,000, with the wine bottled with “barely any” filtration to maximise its freshness, full flavour and texture.

“Extraordinary hit of flor and salt and wonderfully tangy fruit, all leading to a crisp, dry finish that is just so drinkable,” the judges said. “Great with or without food. Mouthwatering.”

Alliance Wine

RRP £13.99

ABV 15%

Highly Commended Wines

Only 100 wines can make the final cut in the competition and that means that some excellent wines miss out on a placing. That’s especially true in a year when entries achieved another new record.

But judging is all about fine margins, and our Highly Commended wines deserve credit for impressing our panel of independent merchants.

Over the following we pages, we list all this year’s Highly Commended wines and summarise what the judges said about each of them.

Highly commended wines

Argentina sparkling wine

Rosell Boher Brut Encarnacion, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza NV (£33.50, Ucopia Wines): Beautifully made, soft, soft mousse and stacks of orchard fruit.

Australia sparkling wines

Peter Lehmann Masters Black Queen Sparkling Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2018 (£29.99, Liberty Wines): A big hit of juicy dark tangy fruit and mouthfilling foam.

Austria sparkling wines

Loimer Extra Brut Reserve, Langenlois NV (£31.99, Liberty Wines): Exceptional, classy, racy sparkling from the top drawer. Worth every penny.

England sparkling wines

Roebuck Estates Rosé de Noirs, Sussex 2017 (£42, Southern England Wines): Full flavoured but beautifully refined; red apples and raspberries.

Simpsons Wine Estate White Cliffs Blanc de Blancs, Kent 2018 (£40.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Complex, cleansing: lovely elegant English fizz.

France sparkling wines

Champagne Mandois Blanc de Blancs, Champagne 2017 (£46.49, North South Wines): Citrus, peach and a touch of bakery-brioche. Salty finish.

Champagne Mandois Rosé Grande Réserve, Champagne NV (£41.49, North South Wines): Delightful red fruit in tandem with creamy mousse.

Champagne Collet Brut Rosé, Champagne NV (£45.50, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Salmon colour; peach and orange and red fruits; fine mousse.

Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Brut Passion, Champagne NV (£49.99, Cachet Wine): Lemon meringue and brioche; complex – absolutely delicious.

Champagne Germar Breton Blanc de Noirs, Champagne NV (£36, Vindependents): Great depth and great value – easy to drink and stock.

Champagne Drappier Clarevallis Organic Extra Brut, Champagne NV (£47, Berkmann): Fresh and zesty but complex, warming and delicious. Good value.

Champagne Serveaux Pur Meunier Brut, Champagne NV (£36.99, Boutinot): Something a bit different, really well executed; honeysuckle, green apple.

Champagne Collet Brut 1er Cru Art Déco, Champagne NV (£43.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Classically styled; elegant, nutty; a hint of minerality.

Champagne Collet Blanc de Blanc 1er Cru, Champagne NV (£54.50, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Classic, rich but super-graceful Chardonnay fizz.

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne NV (£115.35, Hatch Mansfield): Extremely stylish; fluent, graceful, lovely depth.

Taittinger Brut Vintage, Champagne 2015 (£74.92, Hatch Mansfield): Complex citrus and brioche; saline note; elegant. Worthy of the price tag.

Champagne PIAFF Brut, Champagne NV (£41.60, Loch Lomond Group): Good texture to the palate; creamy, no sharp edges. Well made, easy drinking.

Champagne de Saint-Gall Le Tradition Premier Cru, Champagne NV (£45, Daniel Lambert Wines): Delightful fruit character, candied citrus; refreshing.

Champagne de Saint-Gall Le Rosé Premier Cru, Champagne NV (£50, Daniel Lambert Wines): Delicious creamy texture; soft berry fruit palate.

Champagne Delavenne Père & Fils L’Île Demi-Sec Grand Cru, Champagne NV (£41, Vindependents): Good price point for customers who like it sweeter.

Champagne Delavenne Père & Fils Dom Basle Brut Réserve Grand Cru, Champagne NV (£42, Vindependents): Yeasty complexity; good price.

Champagne Delavenne Père & Fils Balbiacus Blanc de Noir Grand Cru, Champagne 2018 (£55, Vindependents): Finesse with depth of flavour.

Champagne Duval-Leroy Extra Brut Prestige 1er Cru, Champagne NV (£65, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Delicious toasty aromas. Complex palate.

Champagne Henriot Rosé, Champagne NV (£52, Fells): Appealingly toasty nose; ripe summer fruits and crisp balancing acidity; very well made.

Gardet Brut Tradition, Champagne NV (£34.99, Cachet Wine): Excellent value and ticks all the boxes for an indie non-vintage wine with extra panache.

Champagne PIAFF Blanc de Blancs, Champagne NV (£69.50, Loch Lomond Wines): Pain au chocolate, almond croissant and fresh lemon. Creamy mousse.

Champagne Duval-Leroy Rosé 1er Cru Prestige, Champagne NV (£69.50, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Sophisticated, lovely fruit quality; fine, fine mousse.

Italy sparkling wines

Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta 61 Satèn Brut, Franciacorta NV (£36.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): soft, creamy but bright citrus finish; brioche hints.

Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Palazzo Lana Extreme Extra Brut Riserva, Franciacorta 2010 (£86, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): World-class sparkling; beautiful.

Mezzacorona Rotari Cuvée 28, Trentino NV (£21, Berkmann): Creamy texture; cleansing acidity brings you back for more. Lovely balance; very easy to revisit.

Prapian Estate Prosecco Brut Biologico Valdobbiadene Superiore, Prosecco (£19.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Soft, gentle sherbet and pure orchard fruit.

Moldova sparkling wines

Chateau Purcari Cuvée de Purcari Rosé, Stefan Voda (£29.99, Transylvania Wine): Nicely textured mousse and good body; good clean finish; sophisticated.

South Africa sparkling wines

Kleine Zalze Cap Classique Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, Stellenbosch NV (£21.30, Hatch Mansfield): Fresh and vigorous; punching way above its weight.

Spain sparkling wines

Mas Macia Bohigas Cava Brut Reserva, Cava NV (£16.99, Boutinot): Well priced. Autolytic, with fresh high acidity. Good length and mouth feel.

Raventós i Blanc De la Finca, Conca del Riu Anoia DO 2019 (£31.99, Liberty Wines): Very complex and seamless bubbles with intriguing fruit character.

Argentina white wines

Matías Riccitelli Blanco de la Casa, Uco Valley, Mendoza (£26.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Really interesting blend; worth a punt even at high price.

Zuccardi Poligonos Tupungato Semillon, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2022 (£29.95, Hatch Mansfield): Enticing nose; lemon; brioche. Nice detail; balanced.

Ver Sacrum Geisha Dragon del Desierto, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2021 (£22, Ucopia Wines): Lovely Rhône blend that’s good for handselling.

Zuccardi Apelacion Chardonnay, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2020 (£19.60, Hatch Mansfield): Brilliant light and shade, beautifully made, deliciously fluent acidity.

Armenia white wines

ArmAs Voskehat, Aragatsotn Province 2018 (£17.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Full of easy-drinking tropical fruit flavours; juicy and bright.

Australia white wines

Peccavi No Regrets Sauvignon Semillon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2021 (£25.49, Top Selection): Classic white Bordeaux-esque Maggie River.

Moorooduc Estate Robinson Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2021 (£38.50, Vindependents): Kiwi, citrus, cleansing acidity. Very enjoyable.

Credaro Kinship Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2019 (£25.99, Milestone Wines): Balanced and well integrated. A lot going on here.

Robert Oatley Signature Series Riesling, Great Southern, Western Australia 2020 (£16.15, Hatch Mansfield): Appealing, aromatic, floral and lime.

Tahbilk Viognier, Nagambie Lakes, Victoria 2021 (£15.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Expressive: apricot, ginger, honeysuckle. Delicious long finish.

Russell & Suitor Alejandro Fiano, South Australia 2022 (£14.99, Milestone Wines): Tropical: quince, passionfruit and mango. Very impressive; great value.

Berton Estate Muddy Boots Chardonnay, South East Australia 2022 (£9.99, Vinfinity Wines): Pear drops, sweet candied fruits, white spice, nice acidity, zesty.

Vasse Felix Premier Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2020 (£27.99, Fells): Elegant and reminiscent of good white Burgundy.

Kilikanoon Mort’s Block Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley 2021 (£18.50, Mentzendorff): Zippy lime and lemon oil; a delicious mouthful of pure fruit.

Highly commended wines

Australia white wines (continued)

Scotchmans Hill Chardonnay, Geelong, Victoria 2020 (£26.99, Cachet Wine): Smooth with pear and apple; great balance of oak and fruit; saline finish.

Murdoch Hill Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, Australia 2021 (£30, Graft): Lots of stone fruit. Richness to the palate; a wine for foodies.

Soumah of the Yarra Valley Soumah Savarro, Yarra Valley, Victoria 2021 (£18.49, Boutinot): Floral aromas. Crisp citrus; stone fruit. Lovely long finish.

Austria white wines

Weingut Rabl Grüner Veltliner, Langenlois, Kamptal 2022 (£18.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Bright and fresh and great depth of flavour and acidity.

Allacher Chardonnay Reserve Ried Altenberg, Gols, Burgenland 2021 (£19.95, Propeller): Pear and pineapple, banana – tropical. A very exciting find.

Allacher Grüner Veltliner, Gols, Burgenland 2021 (£14.95, Propeller): Crisp, dry, racy with citrus and tree fruit; good food wine – ideal for a picnic.

Heidi Schröck & Söhne Furmint, Neusiedlersee, Burgenland 2021 (£21.99, Liberty Wines): Intriguing flavours: apricot, spice. Excellent balancing acidity.

Weinhof Waldschütz Fels am Wagram Grüner Veltliner, Wagram 2021 (£22.12, Alpine Wines): Nice body and texture; citrus and stone fruits.

Neukamp & Stadler Nestor Pinot Gris Ried Lehendorf, Halbturn, Burgenland 2020 (£30.95, Propeller): Butterscotch and toffee apples; serious wine.

Neukamp & Stadler Nestor Cuvée No 2, Halbturn, Burgenland 2020 (£32.95, Propeller): Blueberries; nicely balanced with some mocha notes.

Funkstille Skin Contact, Niederösterreich 2021 (£12.99, Alliance Wine): Very accessible style of orange wine. Peach, herbs and spice.

Funkstille Grüner Veltliner, Niederösterreich 2022 (£11.99, Alliance Wine): Tropical fruit mingling with citrus. Refreshing and a long, precise finish.

Chile white wines

Arboleda Sauvignon Blanc, Aconcagua Costa 2021 (£16.99, Hatch Mansfield): Super bright; intense and precise; classic Sauvignon flavours; good value.

Undurraga Chardonnay TH Valle de Limarí, Quebrada Seca, Limarí 2021 (£21.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Super balance of fruit, richness and acidity.

Santa Luz Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda Valley 2021 (£11.99, Cachet Wine): Green pepper and guava. Nice fresh finish with a hint of minerality.

Matetic EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca 2021 (£17, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Refined nose. Varietally true; great typicity; extraordinary length.

Emiliana Novas Riesling, Bío Bío Valley 2021 (£12.49, Boutinot): Terrific, exceptional value Riesling with great balancing, racy acidity and lovely fruit.

Outer Limits by Montes Zapallar Sauvignon Blanc, Aconcagua Costa 2022 (£18.99, Liberty Wines): Explosive blast of expressive Sauvignon fruit.

Siegel Family Wines Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda Valley, 2022 (£14, Vindependents): fresh lemon sherbet zing on the finish. Top wine for the price.

China white wines

Ningxia Xige Estate Xige N28 Chardonnay, Dove Mountains, Ningxia Helan Mountains 2020 (£27.95, Propeller): Lovely warm toasty style of Chardonnay.

France white wines

Louis Jadot Mâconnais, Mâconnais, Burgundy 2020 (£34.60, Hatch Mansfield): Beautifully made, just what we’d be looking for a from a high-quality Mâcon.

Fernand Engel Riesling Silberberg, Alsace 2019 (£24.60, Marta Vine): Wonderful tangy, juicy mouthful of apples, peaches, citrus; floral notes; clean, fresh.

Domaine Haut-Marin Côtes de Gascogne No 6 Les Fossiles, Côtes de Gascogne 2022 (£10.99, Boutinot): Incredible value; aromatic, racy and pure.

Boutinot France Cuvée Jean Paul Gascogne Blanc Sec, Côtes de Gascogne 2021 (£8.49, Boutinot): Superfresh, aromatic easy-drinker; great value.

Mineralium Chenin Blanc, Languedoc 2022 (£9.99, Cachet Wine): Proper Chenin character, apples and pears and nice mouth feel, all for under a tenner.

Hornhead Chardonnay, Côtes de Gascogne 2021 (£9.99, Cachet Wine): Stone fruit – fleshy white peach and yellow plum. Nice mouthfeel. Value.

Villa Noria Amfòra Orange Wine, Coteaux de Bessilles, Languedoc 2021 (£21.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Very interesting! Hits the orange wine spot.

Plaimont Producteurs L’empreinte Blanc, SaintMont 2020 (£14.95, Corney & Barrow): Very good introduction to the region for the open-minded.

Xavier Roger Marsanne-Viognier, Languedoc 2021 (£9.49, Cachet Wine): Soft and accessible fruit-salad drinkability; fresh peach and pear juice.

Coquille de Mer Vermentino, Languedoc 2022 (£8.99, Cachet Wine): Some stone fruit aromas and a light clean fresh flavour – good value.

Domaine Fournillon Chablis, Chablis, Burgundy 2019 (£19, Vindependents): Classic Chablis: bright, lemon citrus and green apple, cool-stone minerals.

J de Villebois Pouilly-Fumé, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire 2020 (£26.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Grapefruit and gooseberry; subtly mineral; racy but soft texture.

E Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2021, Rhône 2021 (£14.49, Fells): Lots of typicity; a good safe bet for the shelves of independents. Floral; creamy mouth feel.

Calmel & Joseph La Marquise, IGP Pays d’Oc (£13.99, Daniel Lambert Wines): Nice weight and a long finish. Great structure and balance. Great wine for the price.

Joseph Mellot Pouilly Fumé Domaine des Mariniers Mellot, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire 2022 (£23.25, Hatch Mansfield): Real elegance; cool-climate citrus.

Joseph Mellot Pouilly-Fumé Le Chant des Vignes, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire 2020 (£20.45, Hatch Mansfield): Absolutely spot-on Pouilly-Fumé: classic style.

Château Paul Mas Belluguette, Languedoc 2022

(£14.95, Domaines Paul Mas): Fleshy white stone fruit nicely balanced by dusty white pepper acidity.

Domaine Gardiés Mas Les Cabes Blanc, Côtes du Roussillon 2021 (£16.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Aromatic; tropical and citrus; good floral character.

Cave de Turckheim Riesling Vieilles Vignes, Alsace 2019 (£15.49, Boutinot): Nectarine flesh, plums and racy, dancing acidty; good example at a good price.

Domaines Paul Mas Vignes de Nicole ChardonnayViognier, IGP Pays d’Oc 2022 (£10.99, Domaines Paul Mas): Ginger; orange peel; very complex for the cash.

Orfée l’Infernale Corbières Blanc 2021, Corbières, Languedoc-Roussillon (£17.99, Key Wine Company): Rich lemon curd and orchard fruit. Bags of character.

Juliénas Chaintré Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru aux Quarts, Pouilly-Fuissé, Burgundy 2021 (£35, Vindependents): Lemon, red fruits, lovely rounded mouth feel.

Plaimont Producteurs Le Faite Blanc, Saint Mont 2019 (£21.50, Corney & Barrow): Fascinating, high-quality, ripe, tangy tropical fruit and vanilla.

Louis Jadot Château des Jacques Beaujolais Blanc Clos de Loyse, Beaujolais 2021 (£21.60, Hatch Mansfield): Long, lingering; worth stocking.

Helfrich Family Domaine Marguerite Carillon Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy, Chablis 2021 (£31.99, GCF Exclusive): Typical steely acidity; elegance; energy.

Domaine Corty Jurançon Doux, Jurançon 2019 (£16.50, Vindependents): Good richness and depth of quince and honey; sweetness balanced by acidity.

M Chapoutier Saint-Peray Haut Chamblard Organic, Saint-Peray, Rhône 2021 (£37.85, Hatch Mansfield): Complexity, fullish body, great balance; refreshing.

Château de l’Ou l’Orange de l’Ou, IGP Côtes Catalanes 2020 (£35.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Very smart, individualistic example of orange wine.

Domaine Boutinot La Fleur Solitaire Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Rhône 2021 (£11.99, Boutinot): Soft but fresh with orchard fruit salad loveliness – super value.

Helfrich Family Château Haut Mouleyre, Bordeaux 2019 (£11.69, GCF Exclusive): Brilliant stuff that punches way above its weight in terms of price.

De Visu 172 Grenache Blanc, Languedoc 2021 (£9.99, Cachet Wine): Quaffable, moreish and well rounded. A good crowd pleaser. Peaches, citrus; lengthy finish.

Caves Fonjoya Grenache Blanc, Saint-Guilhem-leDésert 2022 (£11.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Floral, green apples in the mouth, light, refreshing.

Highly commended wines

France white wines (continued)

Juliénas Chaintré Mâcon Chaintré Cuvée Quatre, Mâconnais, Burgundy 2022 (£17, Vindependents): Great white Burgundy at a very attractive price.

Helfrich Family Château Saint-Robert Organic, Graves, Bordeaux 2020 (£18.49, GCF Exclusive): Fragrant and aromatic with a long finish. Good food wine.

Germany white wines

Selbach-Oster Riesling Trocken, Mosel 2020 (£17.49, Bancroft): Stone-cold classic Mosel Riesling, loads of complexity and oh so lovely! Definitely stockable.

Weingut Hanewald-Schwerdt Herrenmorgen Riesling, Leistadt, Pfalz 2020 (£20, Vindependents): Racy with real presence – nice verve and Riesling tanginess.

Weingut Hanewald-Schwerdt Weissburgunder, Pfalz 2021 (£15, Vindependents): Citrus and mineral, creamy mouth feel. White pepper finish. Good value.

Dreissigacker Vintages Riesling, Bechtheim, Rheinhessen NV (£28.99, Liberty Wines): Fresh, slight mineral note, sweet fruits, stone fruit, nectarine.

Greece white wines

Aoton Savvatiano, Attica, Central Greece 2019 (£19, Southern Wine Roads): A great alternative for lovers of Viognier and southern French whites.

Methymnaeos Orange, PGI Lesvos 2021 (£25, Southern Wine Roads): Well-executed skin contact; light structure; refreshing, dry, citrus, pepper.

Diamantakis Winery Petali Assyrtiko, Crete 2022 (£16, Vindependents): Complex nose, with citrus, herbs and wet cement. Really hits the Assyrtiko spot.

Idaia Winery Dafnes Vidiano, PGI Vidiano 2021 (£18.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Unusual and delicious: would slot right into any Greek range.

Ktima Gerovassiliou Malagousia Epanomi, Epanomi, Macedonia 2022 (£23.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Mouthfilling loveliness; exotic flavours.

Diamantakis Winery Diamantopetra White, Crete 2022 (£19.50, Vindependents): A real sense of place –adventurous customers would love this.

Ktima Biblia Chora Sauvignon Blanc Assyrtiko Estate White, Pangeon, Macedonia 2022 (£22.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lean, dry, nicely tart – zing!

Dourakis Lichnos Vidiano, Crete 2021 (£24, Southern Wine Roads): Lovely fragrance: melon, apricot, dried herbs. Palate full of texture.

Gaia Wines Moschofilero Wild Ferment Moschofilero by Gaia, Peloponnese 2022 (£23.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Very perfumed, tropical, complex.

Italy white wines

Castello di Buttrio Ribolla Gialla, Friuli Colli Orientali 2020 (£24.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Yummy mouthwatering fruit gum; citrus and minerals.

Duca di Saragnano Toscana Bianco Sangiovese, Tuscany 2021 (£10.99, Cachet Wine): Soft and balanced. Quite exceptional at the price.

Mandrarossa Serapias Passito di Pantelleria, Pantelleria, Sicily 2020 (£43.99, Liberty Wines): Superb concentration of flavour – great finish.

Ippolito 1845 Pecorello, Calabria 2021 (£18.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Suprisingly full, lovely texture. Nectarine, apricot and well balanced acidity.

Saraja Vermentino di Gallura Kintari, Sardinia 2020 (£18.99, Boutinot): Jolly, beautifully fresh, tangerine and stone fruit – could be extremely popular.

Campo alle Comete Vermentino Albablu, Tuscany 2021 (£20.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): It’s all there from the very first sip: zesty and refreshing.

Alpha Zeta S Soave, Soave, Veneto 2022 (£10.99, Liberty Wines): Shows how Soave is one of the best value regions around: lovely, graceful and refreshing.

CasalFarneto Verdicchio Collequieto, Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Doc Classico 2022 (£11.50, Vindependents): Crisp, clean, lipsmacking value.

Tasca Capofaro Malvasia di Salina, Sicily, Italy 2020 (£49, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Rich raisins and candied fruit; honey. Perfect with the right dessert.

Masi Fresco di Masi Bianco, Veneto 2021 (£17, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Floral tones, a little fennel, orchard fruit, and citrus; soft acidity. Well made.

Tenuta Aquilaia Vermentino, Maremma, Tuscany 2022 (£15.49, Boutinot): Breezy and fresh with buckets of lemon and lime zest and juice. Balanced.

Colomba Bianca Carricante Lavi, Terre Siciliane, Sicily 2021 (£13.99 Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Rieslingesque zip and steel; citrus, orange blossom.

Colomba Bianca Zibibbo Vitese 2022, Terre Siciliane, Sicily 2022 (£11.99 Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Expressive; floral, tropical; chalky minerality; crisp.

Rinomata Archivo, Abruzzo 2021 (£10.49, Lanchester Wines): Well put-together and versatile; the very definition of a fridge-door white.

Mario Giribaldi Gavi I Risi, Piedmont 2021 (£17.99, Cachet Wines): Orange blossom and red apple; well balanced, fluent acidity and a clean finish.

Curatolo Arini Inzolia, Chirchiaro, Sicily 2022 (£14.99, Liberty Wines): A tropical nose and very floral with orange blossom, apricot and peach.

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo Cutizzi, Campania 2021 (£23.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lime, stone, sweet mint. Lean, fresh palate; mineral.

Cantina Lavis Maso Franch Bianco Trentino, Trentino 2017 (£24.99, Cachet Wines): Lovely, gentle, floral; citrus. Refined, pretty and great purity of expression.

Pellegrino Isesi Zibibbo Pantelleria, Pantelleria, Sicily 2020 (£20.99, Fells): Floral; intensely perfumed; green apple, apricot, blood orange, fennel. Stylish.

Mandrarossa Bertolino Soprano Grillo, Menfi, Sicily 2019 (£30.99, Liberty Wines): Very fine, distinctive, Grillo: hawthorn blossom, lime, sherbet.

Michele Chiarlo Gavi del Comune di Gavi Rovereto, Piedmont 2021 (£22.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Orange peel, citrus and sweet spice. Lemon oil.

CasalFarneto Crisio, Castelli Di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG Classico 2019 (£23, Vindependents): Acacia flowers, good consistency, very delicious.

Jermann Afix Riesling, Venezia-Giulia 2020 (£34, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Lime; minerals. Dry zesty finish. Classic Riesling with lots of life and energy.

Fontanassa C’Adua Gavi, Gavi DOCG 2021 (£18.99, Top Selection): Fruit-forward, clean, fresh and well balanced style of Gavi. Great price point.

Poderi Parpinello Vermentino Sessantaquattro, Sardinia 2021 (£19.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lime cordial, pink grapefruit; appealing saline edge.

Produttori Di Manduria Zin Fiano, Puglia IGT 2021 (£14.99, Alliance Wine): Honeyed stone fruit aromas leading to white peach; balanced and long.

Sorrentino Vigna Lapillo Lacryma Christi Bianco, Boscotrecase, Campania 2019 (£25.99, Liberty Wines): Serious, intriguing, simply wonderful Italian white.

Marchesi di Grésy Langhe Chardonnay, Langhe, Piedmont 2020 (£36.99, Boutinot): Top flight Chardonnay – roll over Burgundy!

Tasca Leone, Sicily 2021 (£24.50, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Lemon curd and cream; very pure. A classy effort, the palate is well-balanced and nicely textured.

Sartarelli Classico, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marches 2021 (£13.87, Jascots Wine): Lovely depth and feel; almond nuttiness with ripe apple and citrus.

Produttori di Manduria Alice Verdeca, Puglia 2022 (£14.99, Alliance Wine): Peach, citrus, subtle Mediterranean herbs. Gently floral. Summer sipper.

Pian Oro Collezione Famiglia Barbanera, Tuscany 2021 (£12.49, Cachet Wine): Pear, apple, lovely balance and finish. One for the veranda!

San Marzano Vermentino Timo, Salento, Puglia 2022 (£13.25 Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lime, grapefruit, peach, pineapple. A lot of fun, full of fruity flavour.

Moldova white wines

Chateau Purcari Alb de Purcari , Stefan Voda 2019 (£22.99, Transylvania Wine): Fascinating white blend, enjoyably drinkable and really well balanced.

Chateau Purcari Vicoria, Stefan Voda 2022 (£14.99, Transylvania Wine): Pronounced nose: lychee, herbal, honey. Great aperitif or spicy food wine.

New Zealand white wines

Joval Catalina Sounds Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2022 (£15.99, Boutinot): Classic Marlborough Sauvignon – goes very well just above entry-level.

Te Merio Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson 2022 (£11.99, Boutinot): Does what it says on the tin, but with style and at an excellent price; a people pleaser!

Highly commended wines

New Zealand white wines continued

Kim Crawford Spitfire Small Parcels Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Wairau Valley, Marlborough 2022 (£22.99, Liberty Wines): So classy, racy and pure.

Tohu Wines Whenua Awa Sauvignon Blanc, Awatere Valley, Marlborough 2021 (£22.49, North South Wines): A brilliantly different take on Sauvignon.

Esk Valley Seabed Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay 2019 (£25.65, Hatch Mansfield): Top-of-the-range Chardonnay with depth and verve.

Portugal white wines

Cartuxa Geno Branco, Evora, Alentejo 2022 (£8.99, Mentzendorff): Lovely easy style; great everyday wine at a great everyday price.

Esporão Defesa White, Alentejo 2021 (£13.30, Hatch Mansfield): Very serious for the money with lots going on. Citrus and tropical fruit combining nicely.

Esporão Colheita White, Alentejo 2021 (£15.65, Hatch Mansfield): A big tasty mouthful of citrus, pears and tropical fruit; good weight but balanced.

Vale de Mata White, Lisboa 2021(£16.95, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Clean, fresh, super-tangy with lovely feel of chalky minerals.

Altano Douro White, Douro 2021 (£12.49, Fells): Floral and tropical fruits mix – feels very fresh and full of personality.

Quinta dos Carvalhais Dão Colheita Branco, Dão 2022 (£16.99, Liberty Wines): Lots of citrus and stone fruit mingling; very well integrated oak.

Vila Nova Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2022 (£11.99, Boutinot): Pear drops, apple and a touch of lemon flesh. Simple, but attractive and very good value.

Real Companhia Velha Cidro Alvarinho, Cima Corgo, Douro 2021 (£17.39, Marta Vine): Serious, expressive, subtly leesy Alvarinho. Very long, very dry, but lovable.

Quintas do Homem Vale do Homem Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2022 (£14.99, Alliance Wine): Crescendo of flavours on a crisp, lively finish. Very good.

Romania white wines

Budureasca Premium Fumé, Muntenia 2021 (£14.99, Transylvania Wines): Enjoyable. Good flavour complexity. Buttery, smoky, spicy. Tropical fruit.

Budureasca Sauvignon & Sauvignon, Muntenia, Dealu Mare 2021 (£14.99, Transylvania Wines): Full mouthfeel and good acidity. Very enjoyable.

South Africa white wines

Wildeberg Terroirs Chenin Blanc, Paarl 2021 (£17.99, Boutinot): Good balance of creaminess and acidity. Stone fruit, citrus, spice. Long honeyed finish.

Jordan Nine Yards Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2018 2022 (£36.25, Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies): Tropical and stone fruit; pleasant toastiness.

Daschbosch Old Vine Hanepoot, Breedekloof 2017 (£14.99, Boutinot): Delicate candied citrus, orange and sultanas. Deep butterscotch and hazelnut.

Daschbosch Skin Contact, Breedekloof 2022 (£18.49, Boutinot): Fresh tropical, floral, aromatic nose. Pronounced aromas. Honeydew melon.

Zevenwacht Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2022 (£14, Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies): Well balanced; good length. A nice summer wine and good value.

Waterkloof Circumstance Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch 2022 (£14.99, Boutinot): A bit different: creamy texture. So balanced and very moreish.

Wildeberg Wild House Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape 2022 (£8.99, Boutinot): Great example of its type for the price. Kiwi, gooseberry; grassy notes.

Spice Route Swartland Chenin Blanc, Swartland 2022 (£16.99, Liberty Wines): Juicy, peach, honey, flint, smoke, vanilla. Apricot and hints of dried fruit.

Lismore Estate Chenin Blanc, Cape South Coast 2021 (£31, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lovely aromas. A beautiful Chenin: oaky, toasty, creamy, smoky.

Bergsig Estate Don’t Tell the Kiwis Sauvignon Blanc, Breede Valley 2021 (£9.99, Vinfinity): Green apple, sweet lime; light, easy-drinking, great value.

Bon Courage Sauvignon Blanc, Robertson, Western Cape 2022 (£12.25, Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies): Engagingly bright – really hits the spot.

Jordan Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Western Cape 2021 (£19.75, Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies): Smoke lifted by stone fruit. Smooth; vanilla, butter.

Painted Wolf The Den Chenin Blanc, Swartland 2022 (£11.49, North South Wines): Mouthfilling Chenin with citrus and some mineral elements. Good price.

Thorne & Daughters Rocking Horse Cape White Blend, Wellington, Western Cape 2021 (£23.99, Liberty Wines): A touch of class – savoury complexity.

Daschbosch Mossiesdrift Steen, Breedekloof 2021 (£18.99, Boutinot): Really good tropical flavours and creaminess. It’s a lot of wine for your money.

Groot Constantia Sauvignon Blanc, Constantia, Western Cape 2021 (£17.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): A wine of individual personality –excellent!

Raats Family Wines Original Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2022 (£14.99, Alliance Wine): Enjoyable well-balanced oak-forward Chenin Blanc.

Spain white wines

Bodegas Viñatigo Listán Blanco, Tenerife, Islas Canarias 2022 (£22.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): A wow wine with so much distinctive character.

Bodegas Viñátigo Gual, Tenerife Islas Canarias 2022 (£29.95, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lemon curd, mango, vanilla. Something very different.

Fernando Family Wines SOL Finca Navahermosa Verdejo, Castilla La Mancha 2022 (£10, Daniel Lambert Wines): Real hit of tropical fruit. A fun wine.

J Fernando Family Wines SOL Finca Navahermosa Chardonnay, Castilla La Mancha 2022 (£10, Daniel Lambert Wines): Very well made wine for the price.

Adegas Terrae Abismo, Ribeiro 2022 (£19, Moreno Wines): A gorgeous and higly expressive style of wine. Flavours of lime and tutti frutti sweets.

Arousana Follas Novas Albariño, Val Do Salnés, Rías Baixas 2022 (£17, Vindependents): Good roundness nicely balanced by acidity. Tropical fruit flavours.

Bodegas Muerza Blanco, Rioja 2021 (£9.99, Cachet Wine): Accessible and bright with good fruit. Good value and a useful wine to have in a range.

Dominio de Fontana Sauvignon Blanc Verdejo, Uclés, Central Castille 2021 (£11.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Fresh red apples and unripe peach. Great for price.

Jean Leon Vinya Gigi, Penedès 2018 (£23, Fells): Sherbet and tropical fruit: apricot, mango, dried stone fruits. Full-bodied. Lovely.

Felix Callejo El Lebrero, Ribera del Duero 2020 (£31, Moreno Wines): Subtle oak and nice citrus freshness. Honey, toast, warmth, good finish. Intriguing.

Bodega Enate Chardonnay-234, Somontano, Aragón 2022 (£15, Daniel Lambert Wines): Candied fruits; beautifully made. Lots going on for the money.

Borsao Selección Blanco, Campo de Borja 2021 (£9.49, Boutinot): Brilliant tropical fruit and gentle creamy oak. Amazing value for a gastronomic white.

Neleman Wines Just Fucking Good White Wine, Valencia 2021 (£20.50, Marta Vine): Fascinating blend and it really works – depth with freshness combined.

El Camarón Albariño, Rías Baixas 2021 (£14.99, Alliance Wine): Fresh fruit aromas of stone fruits; clean and tangy; brisk and an easy sell.

Ca N’Estruc Idoia Blanc, Catalunya 2020 (£19.99, Boutinot): Very well balanced tropical fruit and oak. Full mouth feel. Very enjoyable.

Valdespino Viña Macharnudo Alto Barrel-Fermented Palomino, Jerez 2021 (£18.99, Liberty Wines): Loads of smoked oak and salt combined with some fresh pear.

JEREMY BORG PAINTED WOLF, SWARTLAND

Highly commended wines

Spain white wines (continued)

Bodegas Astobiza Malkoa, Txakoli de Alava 2016 (£44.50, Moreno Wines): Really original; essence of lemon and spice; great texture – an indie wine.

Granbazan Etiqueta Ambar Albariño, Rías Baixas 2022 (£21.99, Boutinot): A step up in quality – classic combination of Albariño freshness and fleshiness.

Familia Martínez Bujanda Finca Antigua Moscatel Naturalmente Dulce, La Mancha 2022 (£14, Berkmann): Yummy indulgence of sweet orange.

Clos de Lôm Malvasia, Valencia 2021 (£18.50, Vindependents): Really great intensity of peach and apricot; floral inflections; nice fruit-driven weight.

Struggling Vines Kha Me, Rioja 2021 (£29, Moreno Wines): Toasty and creamy. A bit different. Works well as a novel food-matching Saturday night bottle.

Bodegas Emilio Moro El Zarzal, DO Bierzo 2020 (£22.49, Alliance Wine): Phenomenal restrained yet clean expression; stone fruit and peach shine through.

USA white wines

Crosby Cellars Crosby Chardonnay, California 2021 (£14.95, Propeller): Toasted tropical fruit aromas. Toasted tapioca flavours. Affordable.

Argentina rosé wines

Benegas Carmela Benegas Rosé, Mendoza 2022 (£15.25, Ucopia Wines): Pale pink, pleasant light red berry fruits with clean fresh red fruit flavours.

France rosé wines

Château Beaulieu Cuvée Alexandre, Coteaux-Aixen-Provence 2022 (£16, Liberty Wines): Elegant and classy; subtle creaminess; soft red fruits.

Château Grand Boise Rosé, Côtes de Provence SainteVictoire 2021 (£20.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Smooth, red berries and peach; herbal notes.

Helfrich Family Château de Fesles La Chapelle Rosé, Anjou, Loire 2021 (£12.59, GCF Exclusive): Red berries, candied red fruits; smoother, weightier texture; value.

M Chapoutier Château de Ferrages Roumery Rosé, Côtes de Provence 2021 (£17.05, Hatch Mansfield): Lovely colour; complexity and elegance of fruit.

Minuty Prestige, Côtes de Provence Rosé 2022 (£24, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Rich but well balanced, this is well-made rosé. Good value considering the quality.

Mas de Cadenet Rosé, Provence 2022 (£18.80, Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies): Lovely colour, with an attractive, restrained nose of peach, melon and pear.

Gassier Esprit Gassier, Côtes de Provence 2022 (£18, Enotria&Coe): Red berries, peach, blood orange, sweet strawberry sherbet. Attractive all round; good value.

Château Capion Les Fantaisies de Capion Rosé, IGP Pays d’Oc 2021 (£14.95, Château Capion): Nicely done, soft and gentle red fruits and refreshment.

Domaines Paul Mas Le Rosé par Paul Mas Organic, Vin de France 2022 (£12.50, Domaines Paul Mas): Strawberry, jasmine; refreshing; great for summer days.

Greece rosé wines

Theopetra Estate Xinomavro Rosé, Meteora 2021 (£20.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Crisp, dry: interesting alternative to the ubiquitous Provence.

Italy rosé wines

San Marzano Primitivo Rosé Tramari, Salento 2022 (£12.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Fragrant wine. Rose petals, pear, red apples. Good option for price.

Moldova rosé wines

Chateau Purcari Rosé, Stefan Voda 2022 (£13.99, Transylvania Wine): Fresh and fruity, lots of strawberry. Nothing not to like. Good for the price.

Domeniile Averesti Diamon Busuloaca de Averesti, Averesti 2021 (£19.99, Transylvania Wine): Lots of interest – red fruit; lovely citrus and tropical notes.

South Africa rosé wines

Waterkloof Circumstance Cape Coral Rosé, Stellenbosch 2022 (£14.99, Boutinot): Such a lovely colour. Flavours match beautifully. Refined rosé.

Coterie by Wildeberg Cinsault Rosé, Coastal Region 2022 (£15.99, Boutinot): Provence in South Africa! Lovely creamy fruit, depth and freshness.

Spain rosé wines

Bodega Enate Enate Rosado, Somontano, Aragón 2022 (£15, Daniel Lambert Wines): Lovely deep colour and flavour: cherry, strawberry, raspberry.

Finca Museum Las Musas, Cigales 2022 (£18.99, Liberty Wines): Fascinating mix: floral, honey, raspberry, cream; good acidity. Nice and different.

Argentina red wines

Doña Paula Altitude Series 1100, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2019 (£22.99, North South Wines): Plum, chocolate, herbs and a sprinkling of pepper: a great blend.

Las Estelas Letitia Cabernet Cabernet, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2021 (£15.25, Ucopia Wines): Vibrant blackcurrants with fresh and lively flavours. Value.

Piattelli Vineyards Tannat, Cafayate, Salta 2021 (£16.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Deep, dark, bold, robust: infusion of spice. Steak please!

Boutinot Argentina Pablo y Walter Malbec, Mendoza 2022 (£11.49, Boutinot): Redcurrant aromas with cassis and violet notes. Smooth and moreish.

Mauricio Lorca Recoleta Malbec, Vista Flores, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2021 (£12.50, Ucopia Wines): Redcurrants, violets, raspberry, spice. Great value.

Manos Negras Red Soil Select Pinot Noir, Cepillo, Mendoza 2018 (£18.49, Alliance Wine): Elegant, clean, spicy, light but not backwards with fruit. Lovely!

Bodegas Vinecol Quinde Reserve Malbec, La Paz, Mendoza 2021 (£13.33, Bancroft): Vivid sour cherry and dark chocolate, plum and blackberry.

Pannunzio GV Malbec, Mendoza 2020 (£13.60, Top Selection): Nice nose. Good intensity, black fruits, spice, oak. Very enjoyable. Very good value.

Andeluna Malbec Altitud, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2020 (£20.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Full-bodied; good concentration but fresh and elegant. Great stuff.

Kaiken Aventura Aventura Malbec, Valle de Canota, Mendoza 2021 (£24.99, Liberty Wines): Vibrant purple; fruity nose; blackberry, mocha, mulberry.

Kaiken Aventura Aventura Los Chacayes Norte Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2021 (£24.99, Liberty Wines): A Malbec of standout depth and intensity.

Zuccardi Concreto Malbec, Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley 2019 (£38.70, Hatch Mansfield): Plum, savoury herbs; rhubarb; black cherry. Very elegant and beautiful.

Pulenta Estate I Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2020 (£23, Berkmann): Deep plums and suave tannins; high-quality, well-defined Malbec.

Andeluna Malbec Raices, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2021 (£11.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Delightful easy fruit succulence – plums and berries. Great value.

Las Estelas Malbec Cabernet Franc, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2020 (£20.95, Ucopia Wines): Bramble and black pepper; full, fresh and spicy.

Viña Cobos Malbec, Mendoza 2021 (£18.99, Alliance Wine): Lovely plush texture with delicious sweetness to the fruit. Nice concentration and balance.

Kaiken Disobedience by Francis Mallmann Red Blend, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2020 (£21.99, Liberty Wines): Big bold and beautiful blend that doesn’t underdeliver.

Matias Riccitelli Bonarda The Apple Doesn’t Fall Far From the Tree, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2020 (£23.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Abundant juicy fruit.

Benegas Estate Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2020 (£19.95, Ucopia Wines): Violet and floral aromas with ripe plum and strawberry notes. Long; soft tannins.

Bodega Sottano Selección del Enólogo Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021 (£22.50, Vindependents): A bigger, bolder, truly Argentinian style of Cabernet.

La Cayetana Pinot Noir, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2019 (£29, Ucopia Wines): Delicate, perfumed nose. Tangy cranberry and cherry. Long and refreshing.

Benegas Estate Cabernet Franc, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2021 (£19.95, Ucopia Wines): Good depth; complex floral finish. Nicely balanced. Really good.

Las Estelas Pinot Noir, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2021 (£19.95, Ucopia Wines): Refined, elegant, complex, subtle red cherry; wonderful finish.

Las Estelas Grand Vin, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2019 (£42, Ucopia Wines): Beautiful dark berries, smooth tannins; wonderful finish; elegant.

Highly commended wines

Australia red wines

Tahbilk Shiraz Nagambie Lakes, Victoria 2017 (£18.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): A bit of spice and packed with bold dark fruit of the berry persuasion.

Berton Vineyard Durif Winemakers Reserve, Riverina 2021 (£12.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Intense black fruit, coffee. Good with red meats. Good value.

Jim Barry Wines Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon The Barry Bros, Clare Valley 2019 (£15.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Classic crowd-pleaser of a Shiraz-Cab.

Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Shiraz, Hunter Valley, New South Wales, 2019 (£19.99, Fells): Savoury nose. Well balanced; very smooth. Juicy, pure fruits. Enjoyable.

Robert Oatley Signature Series G-20 Grenache, McLaren Vale 2020 (£16.15, Hatch Mansfield): Interesting and distinctive; strawberry freshness.

Bethany First Village Grenache, Barossa Valley 2019 (£18.99, Milestone Wines): Typical strawberry and summer fruits on the nose, very attractive and light.

Willunga 100 Smart Vineyard Clarendon Grenache, McLaren Vale 2021 (£27.99, Liberty Wines): Lovely balance of acid and fruit. Good finish. Really classy.

Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Barossa Bush Vine Grenache, Barossa Valley 2020 (£17.99, Fells): Cherry and violets; light extraction; very quaffable.

Willunga 100 Trott Vineyard Blewitt Springs Grenache, McLaren Vale 2021 (£27.99, Liberty Wines): Complex, balanced, spicy, nice tannins: good value.

De Bortoli Wines Deen Vat Shiraz, Riverina, New South Wales 2018 (£11.99, North South Wines): Simple but very pleasant fruit; good buy at the price.

Irvine Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Eden Valley 2019 (£19.49, Cachet Wine): Jam, cloves, and blackcurrant leaf on the nose. Fresh acidity; bright and lively.

Scotchmans Hill Shiraz, Geelong, Victoria 2020 (£26.99, Cachet Wine): Warm red and black berry fruit, savoury notes; pepper; good long finish.

Tyrrell’s Rufus Stone Heathcote Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria 2019 (£19.99, Fells): Pronounced fruit character; juicy, fresh, good tannins; nice texture.

Paxton Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale 2021 (£16.99, North South Wines): Black cherry, bramble, lifted blackcurrant. Rich and mouthfilling.

Russell & Suitor Alejandro Saperavi, Murray Darling, Victoria 2021 (£14.99, Milestone Wines): If you love Saperavi this delivers. Attractively plush; sappy.

Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz, Canberra, ACT 2021 (£29.99, Liberty Wines): Great poise: black cherry with subtle mint and liquorice. Nice tannins and acidity.

Vasse Felix Premier Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2019 (£32.99, Fells): Great freshness, and concentration. Genuine Bordeaux rival.

Torbreck Old Vines GSM, Barossa Valley 2018 (£19.99, Fells): Ripe and juicy take on a Rhône red. Not jammy, though, still with restraint. Versatile; food friendly.

Peccavi Syrah, Margaret River, Western Australia 2020 (£36.49, Top Selection): Delicate, just-ripe berry fruit; gentle tannin; very long, herbaceous finish. A treat.

Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2016 (£55.99 Liberty Wines): Rich, ripe, blackberry, pepper, spiced aromas; good mouthful of fruit and flavour.

Shaw + Smith Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills 2021 (£35.99, Liberty Wines): Perfumed nose. Balanced, moreish and juicy. Fine tannins and acidity; lovely finish.

De Bortoli Regional Reserve Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria 2021 (£13.49, North South Wines): Inviting nose; delicate, elegant, agreeable tannins. Value.

Austria red wines

Seegut Lentsch St Laurent Reserve, Neusiedlersee, Burgenland 2020 (£13.95, Propeller): Good introduction to Austrian reds: spicy and juicy.

Chile red wines

Arboleda Pinot Noir, Aconcagua Costa 2020 (£22.50, Hatch Mansfield): Some savoury edge to bright clean fruit flavours; complex and interesting.

Viña Echeverría GCM Coast, Maule Valley 2019 (£16.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Tobacco, berries, hint of vanilla. A grand quaffing wine at a solid price.

Ventisquero Wine Estates Vertice, Apalta, Colchagua 2019 (£27.99, North South Wines): Pepper; dark chocolate (flavour and texture); savoury; moreish.

De Aguirre Winery Don’t Tell the Kiwis Pinot Noir, Central Valley 2019 (£9.99, Vinfinity): Blueberries, raspberries, spice. Very easy to sell at this price.

Arboleda Carmenère, Aconcagua Valley 2020 (£18.90, Hatch Mansfield): Lovely full flavours, herb and black fruit, plum and tobacco leaf – classic Carmenère.

Emiliana Salvaje Syrah, Casablanca Valley 2021 (£15.49, Boutinot): Inviting nose; good black fruit; nice intensity; fresh – vivid.

Morandé Terroir Cinsault/País, Maule Valley 2020 (£12, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Dark cherries, chocolate, hint of anise. Fresh, easy-drinking red.

Santa Luz Gran Reserva Carmenère, Colchagua Valley 2020 (£11.99, Cachet Wine): Green pepper, raspberry, chocolate. Very typical and very well made.

Outer Limits by Montes Apalta Vineyard Carignan/ Grenache/Mourvèdre, Apalta, Colchagua Valley 2021 (£23.99, Liberty Wines): Rich; superb complexity.

Caliterra Petreo Carmenère, Colchagua Valley 2020 (£16.70, Hatch Mansfield): Excellent, fruit-forward style of Carmenère with big commercial appeal.

Ventisquero Wine Estates Grey Cabernet Sauvignon La Trinidad, Maipo Valley 2020 (£18.99, North South Wines): Lots of classic minty Maipo cassis. Appealing.

Miguel Torres Chile Cordillera Carmènere, Puemo, Cachapoal Valley 2018 (£16.99. Fells): Lovely mix of savoury-soy, herbal and spicy notes and black fruit.

Tabalí Vetas Blancas Pinot Noir, Limarí Valley, 2020 (£15.99 Boutinot): Delicate, elegant; strawberry, redcurrant, smokiness. A very good wine for the price.

Helfrich Family Las Ninas Ella Carmenère Organic, Colchagua Valley, 2022 (£11.99, GCF Exclusive): Very drinkable with notes of cassis and aniseed.

Odfjell Carignan, Maule Valley 2020 (£22.99, Alliance Wine): Deep, dark colour. Red berry fruit aromas. Smooth polished mouth feel. Quality and lots of fun.

Casas del Bosque Reserva Carmenère, Rapel Valley 2021 (£13.15, Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies): Bright fruit, green pepper, subtle spice – lovely!

Santa Luz Gran Reserva Merlot, Colchagua Valley 2020 (£11.99, Cachet Wine): Lovely savoury and juicy Merlot with a pronounced food-friendliness.

Emiliana Adobe Carmenère Organic, Colchagua Valley 2021 (£9.99, Boutinot): Good typicity. Fresh with grippy tannins. Good quality and price.

Undurraga Syrah TH, Leyda Valley 2020 (£22.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Deep purple; smells serious. Meaty, umami, chewy tannins, tasty fruit, spicy.

Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve, Aconcagua Valley 2018 (£70, Hatch Mansfield): Very smart, intense Cabernet; stylish acidity and tannins.

China red wines

Ningxia Xige Estate Xige N28 Malbec, Dove Mountains, Ningxia Helan Mountains 2020 (£24.95, Propeller): Floral, black fruit, smoke: complex.

Ningxia Xige Estate Xige N50, Dove Mountains, Ningxia Helan Mountains 2019 (£29.95, Propeller): A unique and full-bodied style of Cabernet.

Ningxia Xige Estate Jade Dove Red, Dove Mountains, Ningxia Helan Mountains 2019 (£22.95, Propeller): A beautiful expression of Cabernet with dark fruit.

Ningxia Xige Estate Jade Dove Single Vineyard Cabernet Gernischt, Dove Mountains, Ningxia Helan Mountains 2018 (£37.95, Propeller): Expressive, voluminous, original – excellent quality.

France red wines

Château Paul Mas Clos des Mures, Languedoc 2022 (£13.99, Domaines Paul Mas): Blackberries, garden mint, peppers, perfumed aromas; big, ripe and rich.

Domaine de Peras La Guerre des Bouchons Rouge, IGP Pays d’Oc 2021 (£12.99, Top Selection): Well put together; very good foil for hearty dishes. Enjoyable.

Helfrich Family Château des Jaumes Infusion Sans Sulfites, Côtes du Roussillon 2021 (£13.79, GCF Exclusive): Fresh blackcurrants and bakewell tart.

Les Tannes en Occitanie Merlot, IGP Pays d’Oc 2022 (£7.99, Domaines Paul Mas): Just incredible to get this quaity at this price: perfect easy-sipping.

Louis Jadot Château des Jacques, Morgon, Beaujolais 2020 (£21, Hatch Mansfield): Top-flight Cru Beaujolais with a serious side: lovely supple tannins.

Louis Jadot Domaine Prieur-Brunet Santenay 1er Cru Maladière Rouge, Burgundy 2017 (£38.75, Hatch Mansfield): Very expressive Pinot; nice evolution.

Highly commended wines

France red wines (continued)

Château Capion Le Chemin des Garennes, Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc 2018 (19.95, Château Capion): Rich, dark, meaty. Very appealing and quite serious.

Paul Mas Pure Shores Rouge, IGP Pays d’Oc 2021 (£9.99, Vinfinity): Lots of plummy fruit. A well made, easy-drinking wine with good length.

De Visu 223 Grenache, IGP Pays d’Oc 2021 (£9.99, Cachet Wine): Red fruits, marzipan. Juicy; full of red fruits. Lots for you money. Great entry level wine.

Domaines Paul Mas Cuvee Secrete No Sulphites Merlot/Cab Sauvignon, IGP Pays d’Oc 2022 (£11.49, Domaines Paul Mas): Fresh, perfumed, raspberry. Good weight, medium bodied.

Boutinot France Alo Jais Noir Carignan, Cotes Catalanes, Roussillon 2021 (£11.99, Boutinot): A lot going on for the price. Quite delicious – an easy sell.

M Chapoutier Côtes du Rhône Adunatio Rouge Collection Bio, Rhône 2020 (£16.10, Hatch Mansfield): Dried red fruit; thyme; juicy mid-palate.

Domaine Madeloc Serral Rouge, Collioure, Roussillon 2020 (£21.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Detailed, complex. Very enticing; good intensity; distinctive.

Château Grandis Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux 2011 (£18.50, Vindependents): Classic Bordeaux nose. Maturing, but in a very enjoyable place. Good honest claret.

Les Argelières Cabernet Franc, IGP Pays d’Oc 2021 (£9.99, Cachet Wine): Blackcurrant and raspberry leaf on the nose. Well made and priced.

Domaine de Roquemale Les Terrasses, Languedoc 2021 (£18.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Vivacious, full of fruit and spice; blackberries, pomegranate.

Plaimont Producteurs L’Empreinte Rouge, Saint-Mont 2019 (£14.95, Corney & Barrow): Full and rich but a lovely seam of freshness: very smart for this price.

Domaine Gayrard Rouge, Gaillac 2020 (£14.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Vivid blackcurrants and blackberries. A streak of iron; lovely juiciness.

Bouchard Père & Fils Monthélie Domaine, Monthélie, Burgundy 2018 (£29.49, Fells): Lovely crisp red fruit, nicely defined; very pretty red Burgundy.

Domaine Claude Maréchal Bourgogne Côte d’Or Rouge Cuvée Gravel, Burgundy 2021 (£28.50, Vindependents): Rose, violet; a blast of berries.

Terroirs & Talents Saint-Amour, Beaujolais 2020 (£19.40, Hatch Mansfield): Vibrant acidity on the really juicy palate. A substantial, serious Gamay.

Domaine Boussey Monthélie Les Hauts Brins, Burgundy 2019 (£35.79, Top Selection): Beautifully perfumed and silkily attractive Pinot. Class.

Juliénas Chaintré Juliénas Tradition du Bois de La Salle, Beaujolais 2022 (£15, Vindependents): Bright, juicy; chalky tannins, nice weight, very moreish.

Domaine de Lathevalle Morgon Les Charmes, Beaujolais 2019 (£19.99, Boutinot): Lovely shining, polished candied fruit; slick tannins; balanced acidity.

Vignobles Moreau La Clef de Voute St-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux 2018 (£31, Top Selection): Lovely texture, finish and balance. Very well made indeed.

Domaine Remoriquet Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots, Burgundy 2021 (£58.50, Vindependents): Really gorgeous fruit in this classical Burgundy.

M Chapoutier Marius Avenue de la Gare Syrah, IGP Collines Rhodaniennes 2021 (£15.85, Hatch Mansfield): Nice dark character; spicy, good value.

Helfrich Family Domaine de Tholomies La Livinière, Minervois, Languedoc 2020 (£25.89, GCF Exclusive): Smoky black cherries and bramble fruit. Smart.

Domaine La Lôyane Cuvée Alpha, Vallée du Rhône Sud 2020 (£25, Vindependents): Lots of savoury flavour and dark fruit. Authentic and engaging.

Coquille de Terre Vielles Vignes Carignan, IGP Pays d’Oc 2021 (£8.99, Cachet Wines): A crowd-pleaser which delivers great enjoyment for the price.

Ogier SAS Clos de l’Oratoire des Papes, Châteauneufdu-Pape, Rhône 2021 (£35, Jascots): Needs a little time to open up but this is serious, savoury stuff.

Domaine Boutinot Les Six Cairanne, Rhône 2021 (£17.49, Boutinot): Attractive bright Grenache fruit with a nice floral complexity. Excellent value.

Domaine Remoriquet Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Allots, Burgundy 2021 (£45, Vindependents): Abundance of red fruits. Excellent length. Good ageing potential.

Plaimont Producteurs Le Faite Rouge, Saint-Mont 2018 (£21.50, Corney & Barrow): Robust, darkly interesting, but excellent depth and balancing acidity.

Helfrich Family Domaine Maurice Ecard Savigny-lèsBeaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières, Burgundy 2020 (£37.99, GCF Exclusive): High-quality, silky Pinosity.

Domaine Remoriquet Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Rue de Chaux, Burgundy 2021 (£58.50, Vindependents): Exquisitely put together. Fine wine.

Jean-Claude Mas Mon Grenache Noir Organic, IGP Pays d’Oc 2022 (£11.99, Domaines Paul Mas): Accessible but authentic soft, juicy Grenache.

Domaine Claude Maréchal Savigny-lès-Beaune Vielles Vignes, Burgundy 2021 (£38.50, Vindependents): Beguiling, excellent Pinot. Good value.

Domaine Minchin Pommerais La Tour Saint Martin, Menetou-Salon, Loire 2021 (£25.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lovely Loire Pinot: fresh, bright, vivid.

Mas Gabinèle Faugères, Languedoc 2020 (£25.75, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Bags of authentic character but quite polished and rich. Layered.

Georgia red wines

Dugladze Mukuzani, Kakheti 2018 (£14.99, Transylvania Wine): Aniseed, liquorice spice, dark black fruits, crunchy tannins. Good typicity.

Germany red wines

Weingut Hanewald-Schwerdt Kalkriff Spätburgunder, Leistadt, Pfalz 2019 (£24.50, Vindependents): Delightful Pinot with beautiful red fruit and length.

Greece red wines

Gaia Wines Agiorgitiko, Nemea, Peloponnese 2021 (£18.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Structured but succulent; really enjoyable; well made.

Afianes Wines Raos, Ikaria, Aegean Islands 2020 (£30, Southern Wine Roads): Balsamic and mulberries; light and very individualistic.

Sant’or Krasis, Achaia, Peloponnese 2020 (£22, Southern Wine Roads): Super-distinctive: blackberries, subtle medicinal notes; well worth a try.

Grampsas Root of the Mountain, Zante, Ionian Islands 2020 (£25, Southern Wine Roads): Blackcurrant and tobacco, sweet aromas, silky feel, great acidity.

Ktima Gerovassiliou Estate Red, Epanomi, Macedonia 2019 (£25.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Super smooth texture; spice, chocolate, sweet black fruits.

Alpha Estate Single Vineyard Hedgehog, Amyndeon, Macedonia 2020 (£22.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Evocative: red berries, cloves, herbs. Lovely.

Diamantakis Winery Diamantopetra Red, Crete 2019 (£18.50, Vindependents): Lovely refreshingly tangy fruit; savoury, spicy, well-balanced tannins.

Italy red wines

Brezza Giacomo e Figli dal 1885 Vigna Santa Rosalia, Barbera d’Alba 2021 (£19.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Intense fruit, silky texture, incisive acidity.

Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano, Carmignano, Tuscany 2020 (£19.99, Liberty Wines): Loads of authentic Tuscan Sangiovese flavour and texture.

Terre di Melazzano Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2017 (£37, Marcato Direct): Impressive classic cherry and savoury tannins – good length.

Renato Ratti Nebbiolo Langhe Ochetti, Langhe, Piedmont, 2021 (£23.99, Fells): Traditional Nebbiolo at an attractive price; enjoyably grippy.

Azienda Agricola Cortese Senia Nero d’Avola, Sicily 2017 (£21.99, North South Wines): A wine that feels very “indie”: some development, interesting flavours.

Feudo Antico Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Biologico DO, Abruzzo 2021 (£12.99, Alliance Wine): Bright and textured with mocha and juicy fruit.

Bodegas Altolandon Mil Historias Bobal, Manchuela 2019 (£12.99, Alliance Wine): Bright berries from nose to palate. Voluptuous, lively, clean – wonderful.

Terre di Melazzano Chianti Classico, Riscoperto DOCG, Tuscany 2021 (£18, Marcato Direct): Plum, leather, cherry: lots of character at good price.

Avignonesi Da-Di Rosso, Tuscany 2021 (£22.50, Vindependents): Arresting nose with medicinalherbal tones; savoury with cherry and red plum.

Highly commended wines

Italy red wines (continued)

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany 2018 (£32.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lovely example of Chianti Classico: leather, cherry, nice grip.

Vigneti Zabù Il Passo Verde Organic Nero d’Avola, Sambuca, Sicily 2022 (£13.99, Liberty Wines): Really interesting. Soft plum, blackcurrant; smoke, herbs.

Poggiotondo Organic Chianti Superiore, Tuscany 2020 (£19.99, Liberty Wines): Very easy to drink – lovely freshness on the palate. Smooth, well balanced.

Alpha Zeta R Valpolicella Superiore, Veneto 2020 (£17.99, Liberty Wines): Bright, sour cherry and a hint of herb/mint – riper plummy palate. Great pasta wine.

Campo alle Comete Bolgheri Stupore, Tuscany 2021 (£27.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Loads of welldefined fruit; everything in its place on the palate.

Buglioni Il Bugiardo Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore, Veneto 2020 (£24, Delitalia): Cassis and plum – lots concentrated fruit and savoury finish.

Ciacci Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Tuscany 2020 (£21, Mentzendorff): Classic Sangiovese with great depth and presence and character at an excellent price.

Celestino Pecci You Can Sangiovese di Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2020 (£23, Marcato Direct): Lots of red fruit, some spice, pleasingly sweet-sour; great for the price.

Fertuna Pactio Rosso, Maremma, Tuscany 2018 (£16, Mentzendorff): Classic Super Tuscan at a very attractive entry price point. Spicy pepper; sour cherry.

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscany 2019 (£28, Vindependents): Brambly fruit; blackberries and cherries; refreshing acidity.

Buglioni L’(I’m)Perfetto, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto 2020 (£17, Delitalia): Great cherryfilled palate with sweet spice and vanilla.

Achille Boroli Ulmus Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont 2019 (£43.29, Top Selection): Astonishingly savoury; gentle redcurrant; woody spice. Serious wine.

Tenuta Ormanni Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2020 (£22, Vindependents): Authentic Sangiovese profile. Classic food-orientated wine; very nicely put together.

Avignonesi Desiderio, Tuscany 2019 (£56, Vindependents): Plum, blueberry, mulberry; redcurrant and strawberry. Very smooth and well balanced.

Montresor Capitel della Crosara, Valpolicella Ripasso, Veneto 2019 (£18.99, Boutinot): Intense cherry bakewell chocolate charm; incense and spice.

Azienda Agricola Cortese Sabuci Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily 2020 (£21.99, North South Wines): Light, juicy; chillable, great well balanced acidity. Zesty, vibrant.

Di Filippo Villa Conversino Rosso, Umbria 2021 (£13.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Pale, soft fruits nose. Bit of garrigue. Pleasant pepperoni pizza wine.

EM Family of Wine Duo Rosso, IGT Veneto 2019 (£15, Marcato Direct): Bright cherry, with touch of tar on the nose; violets, mocha. Tasty and quaffable.

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscany 2018 (£28.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Attractive; lovely mouth feel; cherry, tobacco; good value.

Pricipiano Giuseppe Barolo DOCG Boscareto, Monforte d’Alba, Barolo, Piedmont 2015 (£48, Marcato Direct): Impressive, gorgeous expression of Nebbiolo.

Duca di Saragnano Toscana Rosso da Uve Leggermente Appassite, Tuscany 2020 (£11.99, Cachet Wine): Excellent depth for the price point.

Celestino Pecci Rosso di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2020 (£28, Marcato Direct): Brilliant baby Brunello that’s as good as the “real thing”; very drinkable now.

Principiano Giuseppe Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, Piedmont 2020 (£21, Marcato Direct): Elegant, stylish; dry hedgerow fruit. Very lovable at this price.

Tasca Lamuri, Sicily 2019 (£23.50, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Well integrated, with a deep rich concentratration of black fruits and balsamic notes on the finish. Good acidity.

Cascina Vèngore Belgardo, Terre Alfieri DOCG, Piedmont 2020 (£21, Vindependents): Elegant, perfumed, complex, lovely; exceptional value.

Badia a Coltibuono Sangioveto, Tuscany 2015 (£42.50, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Gorgeous, mature notes of leather; sour cherry; balanced acidity.

Tenuta di Sesta Campanovo Rosso Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2021 (£17.49, Top Selection): Mass appeal, great value; herbal-savoury nose; mulberry palate.

Produttori di Manduria Lirica Primitivo di Manduria DOC, Puglia 2020 (£16.49, Alliance Wine): Sweet raspberries, dark chocolate, coffee; so much character.

Paololeo Millefiore Appassimento Rosso, Veneto 2020 (£13.49, North South Wines): Chocolate, cherries and herbs – lovely feel and intensity. Great value.

Al-Cantàra Etna Lu Veru Piaciri, Sicily 2019 (£24.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Ruby red in appearance and flavour: laced with herbs and spice.

Moldova red wines

Chateau Purcari Rara Neagra, Stefan Voda 2021 (£14.99, Transylvania Wine): Great value Moldovan red; soft, full, spicy aromas; refreshing vibrant fruit.

Chateau Purcari Saperavi, Stefan Voda 2020 (£19.99, Transylvania Wine): Lovely juicy weighty style; good complex wine for the price.

Chateau Purcari Negru de Purcari, Stefan Voda 2019 (£22.99, Transylvania Wine): Nice texture, integrated tannins; crunch. Dark fruits and blackberry leaves.

Chateau Purcari Freedom Blend, Stefan Voda 2019 (£19.99, Transylvania Wine): Refined and serious. The palate is very smooth, with good balance.

New Zealand red wines

Esk Valley River Gravel Merlot Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon, Hawke’s Bay 2019 (£28.20, Hatch Mansfield): Wonderful Kiwi claret!

Nautilus Southern Valleys Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2017 (£25.99, Fells): Classic Pinot forest floor and cherry; lovely feel and seamless texture.

Babich Black Label Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2019 (£23.50, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Refreshing and appetising acidity; lovely clarity of red fruit.

Rockburn Pinot Noir Devil’s Staircase, Central Otago 2021 (£22.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Sumptuous rounded fruit; black and red cherries.

Villa Maria Ngakirikiri, Hawke’s Bay 2019 (£76.60, Hatch Mansfield): Beautifully structured and deep; cassis and great tannins and length.

Villa Maria Attorney Organic Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2019 (£64.50, Hatch Mansfield): Elegance but great shimmering fruit concetration; a lovely example.

Trinity Hill Homage Gimblett Gravels Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay 2019 (£101.99, Liberty Wines): Fragrant, complex, like very good northern Rhône.

Portugal red wines

Real Companhia Velha Dandy Tinto, Douro 2021 (£16, Marta Vine): Raspberry, cherry, plum and chocolate. Very bright and fresh – keeps you wanting more.

Alves de Sousa Caldas, Douro 2020 (£14.79, Top Selection): Perfumed nose leading to bright layered palate of fruits of the forest; good price.

House of Beja Tinto, Vidiguera, Alentejo 2019 (£9.99, Propeller): Ripe, dark fruit; hint of menthol. Very ripe palate; jammy plums and damson; notes of liquorice.

Prats & Symington Post Scriptum, Douro 2021 (£22.99, Fells): Refined, beautifully structured, deep layered flavour and velvety tannins. Good length.

Vila Nova Barao de Varzea do Douro Reserva Tinto, Douro 2020 (£15.99, Boutinot): Fragrant floral nose –classic Douro violets. Succulent black fruits. Value.

Real Companhia Velha Quinta da Carvalhas Tinto, Douro 2018 (£17.99, Alliance Wine): Smooth; cassis and chocolate notes. Integrated oak. Good value.

Herdade do Rocim Indígena, Alentejano, Alentejo 2021 (£21.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Dusky dark fruit; some crunch and bite; great with food.

Cartuxa Geno Tinto, Evora, Alentejo 2019 (£8.99, Mentzendorff): Fresh fruit and spice. Nice body, great summer barbecue wine with a bit more going on.

Global Wines Portugal Cabriz Edição Especial, Dão 2015 (£21.50, Marta Vine): Something of good Rioja here. Great balance and quality. An exciting wine.

Vallegre Old Vines Reserva Especial, Douro 2016 (£24.99, Lanchester Wines/Vintrigue): Powerful and brooding. A very good example of a bold Douro red.

Symington Family Estates Florao Red, Portalegre, Alentejo 2019 (£12.49, Fells): Lots of black and red cherry and plum. Nice focus and intensity; good value.

Highly commended wines

Portugal red wines (continued)

Symington Family Estates Quinta da Fonte Souto Red, Portalegre, Alentejo 2018 (£16.49, Fells): Gorgeous robust red with rich roasted fruit and depth.

Cabeca do Reguengo Solesticio Red, Alentejo 2018 (£19.40, Marta Vine): Really excellent quality for the price – lots of complexity and depth for your money.

Ana Rola Wines Rola Grande Reserva Touriga Nacional, Baixo-Corgo, Douro 2020 (£30, Marta Vine): Balanced, rich, opulent. Big roast lamb wine.

Quinta do Espinho Reserva, Douro 2018 (£20, Vindependents) Loads of black fruit and savoury too. Hits the spot perfectly for the style and price.

Romania red wines

Legendary Dracula Principe Feteasca Neagra, Muntenia, Dealu Mare 2019 (£18.99, Transylvania Wines): Very distinctive and appealing style.

Legendary Dracula Folklore Negru de Dragasani, Oltenia, Dragasani 2020 (£18.99 Transylvania Wines): Sweet and jammy cooked fruit: a crowd-pleaser.

Legendary Dracula Legend of Dracula Negru de Dragasani & Merlot, Oltenia, Dragasani 2017 (£13.99, Transylvania Wines): Spicy dark fruits – bargain!

Legendary Dracula Draculea Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz, Muntenia, Dealu Mare 2017 (£21.99, Transylvania Wines): Oodles of dark fruit.

Legendary Dracula Dominion Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Feteasca Neagra, Muntenia, Dealu Mare 2020 (£17.99, Transylvania Wines): Serious; cassis, herbal.

Legendary Dracula 555, Muntenia, Dealu Mare 2017 (£19.99, Transylvania Wines): Blackcurrant, black cherries, floral; good length.

South Africa red wines

Zorgvliet Silver Myn Argentum, Stellenbosch 2021 (£8.99, Boutinot): An easy-drinking well-balanced wine full of smooth, soft berry fruits.

Jordan The Long Fuse Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2021 (£19.75, Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies): Full of ripe soft blackcurrant fruit.

Tokara Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2020 (£19, ABS Wine Agencies): Extremely well made; flavours come together beautifully. Hard to beat at this price.

Idun Confession, Cape South Coast, Bot River 2021 (£24, Vindependents): Wonderfully elegant and a great example of the new wave of Cape Grenache.

Warwick Blue Lady, Stellenbosch 2018 (£27.99, Fells): Inviting nose of cassis, sweet vanilla and violet. A real crowdpleaser of a Cabernet.

Faithful Hound Mulderbosch Vineyards, Stellenbosch 2020 (£17.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Distinctive, well-made, punchy Bordeaux-style red.

Idun Charismatique, Cape South Coast, Bot River 2021 (£23.50, Vindependents): Lovely aromatics; black cherry, liquorice, spice; concentrated yet fresh.

Lomond Wines Conebush Syrah, Cape Agulhas 2018 (£30.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Deep, dark briary fruit; soft tannins a hint of peppery spice.

Vergelegen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2016 (£19.99, Fells): Concentrated and elegant. A superb blend made for fine dining.

Jordan Cobblers Hill Red, Stellenbosch 2020 (£35.50, Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies): Full-bodied; vanilla; plummy purple fruit. Archetypal SA red blend.

Spice Route Chakalaka, Swartland 2019 (£23.99, Liberty Wines): Concentrated plum, black cherry; liquorice and violet. Impressive weight and balance.

Helfrich Family Owl Post Pinotage, Stellenbosch 2020 (£23.49, GCF Exclusive): A refined Pinotage which could certainly convince the doubters.

Spain red wines

Bodegas Peique Tinto Mencía, Bierzo 2021 (£13.50, Vindependents): Light in body; very drinkable. Cherry bakewell-esque finish. Excellent value.

Casa Mariol Garnatxa Negra, Terra Alta 2021 (£13.99, Top Selection): Black cherry and spice. Very drinkable and pleasing. Could easily be an indie top seller.

Mauricio Lorca Viña Peón Mencía, Ribeira Sacra, Galicia 2021 (£18.25, Ucopia Wines): Spice, herbs, blackcurrant and redcurrant; vibrant and rounded.

Perelada 5 Finques Reserva, DO Empordà, Catalunya 2016 (£17.99, Alliance Wine): Lots of complexity; layers of spice and oak. Grippy tannin. A savoury edge.

J Fernando Family Wines SOL Finca Navahermosa Syrah, IGP Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 2022 (£10, Daniel Lambert Wines): Sweet berry fruit; great value.

Familia Torres Gran Coronas, Penedès 2018 (£14.99, Fells): Very well made, balancing rich ripe fruit and savoury notes. Fits well into a Spanish range.

Wineryon Demuerte One, Yecla 2020 (£12.95, Vinfinity): Lashings and lashings of dark and juicy fruit; spice but not OTT; really well made.

Struggling Vines Phinca Hapa Tinto, Rioja Alavesa, Rioja 2018 (£32.50, Moreno Wines): Lots going on; real quality. Good length; savoury, meaty complexity.

Familia Martínez Bujanda Finca Antigua Garnacha Crianza, La Mancha 2018 (£14, Berkmann Wine Cellars): Hedgerow fruit; great for the price.

Marco Abella Loidana, Priorat 2021 (£21.50, Vindependents): A really good example of Priorat for the price. Fruit and spice. Really nice balance.

Bruma del Estrecho de Marin Finca CQ, Jumilla 2021 (£22.99, Alliance Wine): Distinctive, perfumed, raspberry, strawberry; authentic and natural feel.

Esteban Martin El Otro Tinto, Sierra de Algairén, Cariñena 2021 (£10.95, Ucopia Wines): Fragrant berry fruit; lovely fresh easy-drinking.

Bodegas Peique Viñedos Viejos, Bierzo 2020 (£23, Vindependents): A textbook example of Mencia, with plenty of red fruit, earthiness and acidity.

Bodegas Arloren Vegacañada, Jumilla 2021 (£11.95, Daniel Lambert Wines): Complex but quaffable with classic varietal character. Floral aspect; red berries.

Celler del Roure Safrà, Valencia 2021 (£20.99, Alliance Wine): Beautiful structure; lovely red fruit. Very pure and great acidity; so much personality.

Can’ Leandro La Lloma, Valencia 2021 (£13.99, Boutinot): So bright and lively; some spice, aniseed balls, plum and bramble berries.

Casa los Frailes Dolomitas Terres dels Alforins, Valencia 2020 (£28, Graft): Arresting nose: Asian spices, earthy; beautiful red fruit; fine dusty tannins.

Bideona Las Parcelas, Rioja Alavesa, Rioja 2020 (£22.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Savoury; lifted red fruits and blackcurrants; tangy red fruit acidity.

Telmo Rodriguez Gago Tinta de Toro, Toro 2018 (£22.08, Bancroft): Rich, dense dark cherry and mocha flavours but balanced, not sickly. Good intensity.

Finca Museum La Renacida, Cigales 2020 (£26.99, Liberty Wines): Cherry and plum, smoky undertones; Well balanced and very enjoyable.

Bodegas Peique Ramon Valle, Bierzo 2020 (£17, Vindependents): Ripened red fruits on the nose, fleshy fragrant dark fruits on the palate. Good example.

Cuevas de Arom Altas Parcelas Calatayud Garnacha, Calatayud, Aragón 2020 (£19.99, Liberty Wines): Ripe blueberries. Delightful acidity keeps it bright.

Cuevas de Arom As Ladieras Calatayud Garnacha, Alarba, Acered and Murero, Calatayud, Aragón 2020 (£27.99, Liberty Wines): Super-silky and fragrant.

Ontañón Rioja Reserva, Rioja 2015 (£17.99, Boutinot): Bold, roasted notes, well integrated tannins; supple. Gran reserva quality and style at a reserva price.

Adega Ponte da Boga Mencia, Ribeira Sacra, Galicia 2020 (£16.99, Alliance Wine): Leafy; fennel, red plum. An interesting wine and decent value.

Bodegas San Alejandro Viñas de Miedes, Calatayud, Aragón 2021 (£11.99, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Lots of bramble fruit and spice; appealingly fresh.

Mas Blanch i Jové Saó Abrivat, Les Garrigues, Costers del Segre 2020 (£20, Vindependents): Packed full of fruit. Lovely texture, finish, balance. Very well made.

Mas Blanch i Jové Saó Expressiu, Les Garrigues, Costers del Segre 2019 (£26, Vindependents): A bright, fun wine but substantial. Lovely balance.

Vino de Montaña Sierra de Gredos Cadalso, Sierra de Gredos 2018 (£15.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Fresh, pure palate. Medium bodied and well balanced.

Viña Elena Familia Pacheco Barrica, Jumilla 2019 (£12.99, Alliance Wine): Cassis and figs; supple tannins, very expressive and enjoyable.

Bodegas Arloren SL Paco Arloren, Jumilla 2018 (£13, Daniel Lambert Wines): Macerated fruit on the nose, crushed black berries on the palate. Well balanced.

Highly commended wines

Spain red wines (continued)

Finca Nueva Crianza, Rioja Alta, Rioja 2018 (£16.66, Bancroft): Good balance of fruit, sweet tannins and a good finish; very good value for the quality.

Dominio de Atauta, Ribera del Duero 2019 (£37.99, Boutinot): If you’re looking for stylish rich Spanish red, look no further: great balanced Ribera del Duero.

Vintae, Clea By Bardos Crianza, Ribera del Duero 2020 (£15, Vindependents): Nice deep scented mulberry – excellent quality here.

Ontañón Rippa Dorii Crianza, Ribera del Duero 2020 (£14.99, Boutinot): Wonderfully intense, rich and long finish. Warming, with a mix of savoury and fruit.

Viña Mayor Crianza, Ribera del Duero 2018 (£19.49, North South Wines): Mature dark fruits, blackberry, dark chocolate. Really attractive; very good price.

Gómez Cruzado Rioja Predilecto, Rioja 2021 (£19.99, Boutinot): Sweet spices, generous; luscious, smooth and mouthwatering.

Cosme Palacio Vino de la Guardia, Rioja Alavesa, Rioja 2018 (£21.49, North South Wines): Modern, intense, complex with acidity to balance the hefty tannins.

Cosme Palacio Reserva, Rioja 2016 (£29.99, North South Wines): Lovely rich fruit and plush mouth feel. Good seam of acidity. Well-balanced; moreish.

Álvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat, Gratallops, Priorat 2021 (£22.80, Bancroft): Juicy, generous, smooth, and velvety; fine acidity. Very well balanced.

Marco Abella Mas Mallola, Priorat 2020 (£30, Vindependents): Full-bodied with lots of grip. Nicely balanced. Textbook Priorat: a really good example.

Vintae Clea by Bardos Reserva, Ribera del Duero 2018 (£19.50, Vindependents): Great concentration but beautifully balanced; polished and layered.

Finca Museum Vinea Crianza, Cigales 2018 (£15.99, Liberty Wines): Extremely enjoyable red. Soft, oak, vanilla. Great value for the price. A crowd pleaser.

Finca Bacara Time Waits For No One Stone Elephant, Jumilla 2021 (£14.49, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Cocoa and black fruit; robustly succulent.

Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero, Ribera del Duero 2020 (£26.99, Alliance Wine): Very savoury, meaty and smoky. Dark and deep. A thinking wine.

Bodegas Muerza Crianza, Rioja 2018 (£11.99, Cachet Wine): tangy acidity throughout. Well balanced, mature and, for the money, very very good.

Uruguay red wines

Viña Progreso Revolution Tannat, Progreso Valley, Canelones 2020 (£17.25, Ucopia Wines): Big and full –even gnarly – with tannins, but very rewarding.

Viña Progreso Overground Cabernet Franc, Progreso Valley, Canelones 2018 (£22, Ucopia Wines): Great example of Cabernet Franc: fragrant and lovely feel.

Viña Progreso Overground Cabernet Franc, Progreso Valley, Canelones 2018 (£22, Ucopia Wines): Great example of Cabernet Franc: fragrant and lovely feel.

USA

red wines

Terlato Wines The Federalist Zinfandel, Lodi, California 2018 (£31.50, Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies): Classic Zin for Zin fans: palate-filling blueberries.

Andrew Will Involuntary Commitment, Columbia Valley, Washington State 2020 (£25.41, Bancroft): Mint, raspberries; good acidity, good finish.

Terlato Wines Rutherford Hill Merlot, Napa Valley, California 2019 (£42.95, Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies): Gorgeous Merlot with fine tannins.

Hahn Family Wines Smith & Hook Proprietary Red Blend, Central Coast, California 2020 (£34, Castelnau Wine Agencies): Full bodied; enjoyable dark fruit.

Norton Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, California 2018 (£14.95, Propeller): Well balanced with plum, cherry and warm spice. Soft, round; good value at this price.

Old Stage Pinot Noir, Monterey, California 2019 (£20.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines): Excellent value in this high-end category. Bright and engaging.

Hahn Family Wines Hahn Appellation GSM, Arroyo Seco, California 2021 (£34, Castelnau Wine Agencies): Juicy but balanced; herbs, smoke, liquorice.

Charles Krug Napa Merlot, Napa Valley, California 2020 (£38.49, Top Selection): Plums, cherries, bramble fruit, liquorice spice. Well defined; long.

Precision Wine Co Prototype Lodi Zinfandel, Lodi, California 2020 (£16.79, Top Selection): Packed with cherries. A smooth, fruit-filled Zinfandel. Good value.

Postmark Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, California 2020 (£29.99, Top Selection): Blackberry, plum and spice. Elegant tannins and a long finish.

Decoy Limited Napa Red Wine, Napa Valley, California 2018 (£37.49, Top Selection): Rich, generous flavours; delightful. Blue fruit and blackberry subtle oak.

Crosby Cellars Crosby Cabernet Sauvignon, California 2018 (£14.95, Propeller): Gentle sweet red fruits, finishing with an attractive sweet sensation.

Taken Wines Taken Red Blend, 2019 (£32.99, Vintrigue Wines): Remarkable intensity of sweet dark fruit; a fruit bomb with very obvious appeal.

Calera Central Coast Pinot Noir, Central Coast, California 2018 (£34.79, Top Selection): Graceful, vivid, pure fruit in a darker style. Wide appeal.

Hahn Family Wines Hahn SLH Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, California 2021 (£44.50, Castelnau Wine Agencies): Super fine, elegant: vividly complex.

Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot, 2018 (£53, Top Selection): Soft, rounded, plummy. All elements in harmony. A very enjoyable wine with a long finish.

Domaine Carneros Avant Garde Pinot Noir, Carneros, California 2020 (£25.75, Hatch Mansfield): Extremely aromatic; raspberry, red cherries; silky smooth.

Portugal fortified wines

Rozes Mellor’s Tawny NV, Douro (£10.53, Russell Mellor & Co): A pleasant herbal, earthy quality: adds interest to the chocolate and fruit.

Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Old Malvasia, Madeira NV (£23, Mentzendorff): Nutty caramel sweetness. Burnt almond, raisin and coffee. Complex.

Ferreira Dona Antónia 10-Year-Old Tawny Port, Douro NV (£24.99, Liberty Wines): Dried fruits and a lovely spicy, nutty finish. Rather attractive.

Fonseca Crusted, Douro NV (£20, Mentzendorff): Attractive nose of lifted red fruits and almond. Really well balanced in the mouth; delicious. Good value.

Ferreira Late Bottled Vintage Port, Douro 2017 (£22.99, Liberty Wines): Candied fruits, raisins, black forest gateau, blood. Sweet with some spice.

Graham’s 20-Year-Old Tawny Port, Douro NV (£40, Fells): Really nicely balanced with some good acidity still apparent. Moreish (if not cheap).

Fonseca LBV, Douro 2016 (£18, Mentzendorff): Fruitcake; gently warming spice; lingering sweet fruit. Fantastic: definitely worth stocking it for the price.

Spain fortified wines

Valdespino Premium Collection Amontillado Tio Diego Pago de Macharnudo, Jerez NV (£26.40, Liberty Wines): Full flavour: dried apricot, walnut, soft spice.

Bodegas Hidalgo Pasada Pastrana Manzanilla, Sanlucar de Barrameda, Jerez NV (£18, Mentzendorff): Wonderful rich yeasty depth of flavour; briney finish.

Valdespino Classic Collection Pedro Ximénez El Candado, Jerez NV (£28.49, Liberty Wines): Really fresh, not too cloying. Raisin, fig, hazelnut.

Valdespino VOS & VORS Collection Palo Cortado Viejo CP, Jerez NV (£46.99 Liberty Wines): World class. Would fit nicely into a fine-wine gift box range.

Valdespino Premium Collection Manzanilla Deliciosa Pago de Miraflores, Jerez NV (£18.99, Liberty Wines): Fresh, lifted nose. Beautifully dry, tangy and clean.

Leading suppliers 2023

Methodology

Three points were awarded for a Top 100 place, and one point for each Highly Commended placing.

Leading countries 2023

Methodology