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CONTENTS INTRODUCTION Methodology Trend Forecasting Theories Origins of Fashion Trends Impacts of Fashion Trends TIMELESS TWEED The Trend Trend Tracking Drivers of TheTrend PRIMARY RESEARCH Shop Safari & Street Style Interview and Questionnaire Results Store Observations THE PHOTOSHOOT Moodboard: Photoshoot Inspiration Styling the Shoot Product Inspiration Product Inspiration Moodboard Location of The Shoot Location of The Shoot: Pro’s & Cons THE EDITORIAL Conclusion References Bibliography Image References Appendix Ethics Clause
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5 7 8 9 10 12 15 16 17 20 23 24 25 27 29 30 32 33 34 37 38 41 51 52 53 54 55 63
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INTRODUCTION. The fashion domain is ever-changing and fast paced; with every season, comes a new trend. Many trends are born at the Haute Couture runway shows and trickle down, through to the ready-to-wear garments available in high street stores. Brands within the fashion industry are constantly competing and therefore, the ability to know the approaching fashion trends, seasons in advance, is vital. This ultimately affects how they perform against other brands when consumers begin to shop the new trends. The Spring/Summer 2018 trend of Tweed garments and accessories, will be explored in depth. The objectives to be addressed are; the key drivers of the trend, the impacts of the trend and how the public are currently wearing Tweed and why.
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METHODOLOGY. -
A vast range of research, both primary and secondary, was completed in order to grasp a broad understanding of trends and complete this report. The secondary research that took place included reading different books, articles, journals and websites. Five primary research objectives were met:
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For the shop safari, many highstreet stores were visited in order to collect photographs and observe the current clothing, styling and visual merchandising in Nottingham.
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For the street style observations, photographs of people wearing Tweed clothing were taken, and interviews carried out in order to understand who and why consumers were buying the selected trend.
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A questionnaire was created and completed by 89 respondents. This was sent around social media platforms to collect a wide range of different responses from different demographics.
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An interview with the River Island Sales Manager in the Nottingham store gave an insight into a company’s perspective of the trend and its success.
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Locations were visited, and models were identified to achieve an editorial piece fit for a Vogue magazine. This also involved sourcing and purchasing a range of Tweed inspired garments that are currently available on the Nottingham high-street.
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TREND FORECASTING. -
DEFINING TREND ‘Trend,’ is defined as a general direction of development and movement. Typically associated with ‘trend’ is the fashion industry. The term fashion means, “a style of consumer product or way of behaving that is temporarily adopted by a discernible proportion of members of a social group because that chosen style or behaviour is perceived to be socially appropriate for the time and situation.” (Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011). This is something often confused with trends, ‘however a trend can be emotional, intellectual and even spiritual’ (Raymond, 2010), not just something which affects physical changes in appearance and culture.
“Forecasting is a creative and analytical process” (Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011)
TREND FORECASTING Trend forecasting involves a continual creative way of thinking in order to predict the trends of upcoming seasons. It involves a systematic process, ‘including information gathering, market research and consumer research and analysis’ (Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011). For retailers, it is crucial to have accurate trend forecasting to meet their consumers’ needs in upcoming seasons; to predict a trend wrong would be to sacrifice company profit due to ‘zero sellers’ in their stock having to be reduced in price, to sell. Different influences can impact future trends, being social, cultural, technological and economical. These forces can make it difficult for forecasters to predict new trends especially when there are big changes happening. In order to aid a forecaster, theories like, ‘The Diffusion of Innovation’ founded by Everett M. Rogers, are utilised; the ‘Diffusion of Innovation Curve’ is a passage that forecasters identify when they are considering a future trend’s route through society.
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THEORIES Every product, including fashion items, all have their own finite life cycle. Products are introduced, accepted, and then decline after a period of time. The diffusion of a specific fashion trend typically follows a fashion cycle. The fashion cycle includes four main stages: Introduction, Growth, Maturity and Decline (Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011). It assists fashion retailers when calculating the potential sales and profitability of their upcoming fashion trends. Fig 4
THE DIFFUSION OF INNOVATION: Everett M. Rogers founded a similar theory 4 decades ago; ‘The Diffusion of Innovation’. Despite the age of this theory, ‘trend forecasters today still use his ‘types’ and the percentage divisions within them to calculate the size of each group in any overall society or sector they are asked to study.’ (Raymond, 2010). After extensive research, Rogers consequently divided society up into 4 major categories:
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INNOVATORS – ‘those individuals who are responsible for the development of an innovation’ (Raymond, 2010). These people roughly make up about 2.5% of any overall group and are the first people who a trend forecaster needs to discover in order to investigate the early stages of a trend. EARLY ADOPTERS – ‘the close friends of the Innovator’ (Raymond, 2010), making up 13.5 % of an overall group, and together with the Innovators, they are responsible for the ‘tipping point’ of the trend, where ‘a trend becomes so infectious few people can resist it’ (Raymond, 2010). Fashion brands, at this point, need implement different marketing tools and strategies in order to grow the trend. For a brand to remain competitive, they must grasp this trend and transform it into something unique and relevant to their own brand. EARLY MAJORITY – highly sociable individuals, who are active online and choose to follow, rather than lead, making up an influential 34% of any overall group. ‘Trend forecasters tend to monitor which ideas or trends the Early Majority are concerned with to determine which ones are set to become more popular than others with the late majority’ (Raymond, 2010). LATE MAJORITY – conservative by nature, who ‘require high levels of reassurance and explanation about how a new idea will work,’(Raymond, 2010) representing a sizeable 34% of an overall group. Then, the Later Majority and The Laggards are the people who join the trend as it burns out.
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ORIGINS OF TRENDS. -
Normally, fashion trends originate from cultural, social, technological and economic influences, or they will reappear from past styles. Subcultural movements, or social groups can spark new trends; Thorstein Veblen suggested that ‘fashion change was the result of the need to maintain social stratification’ (Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011).
The trickle-down theory was established to illustrate the different pathways in which new fashion trends take to be born, it was stated that trends can trickle down, up and across different social classes. For a trend to trickle down, it will begin at the high-profile runway shows for the upper class, and trickle down until it reaches high-street stores for the lower class to wear. The trickle-up theory begins at the lower class and suggests that ‘upper classes imitate the fashions of the lower classes; new styles or status symbols float up the status pyramid rather than flow down to the lower classes.’ (Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011). This is where subcultures form their own style, to differentiate themselves from the mainstream, designers then implement this. Finally, the trickle-across theory implies that due to modern society having a wider range of social classes, fashion companies are introducing products at various price points, through mass production, allowing a range of social classes to be able to afford and wear new styles simultaneously.
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Along with the impact of world events, fashion trends have also been influenced by social changes, subcultural influences and economic conditions. (Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011) Social changes impact current fashion trends; for example, the LGBTQ movement which began in the 1990s, is affecting fashion trends today. High fashion brands like Burberry adopted the iconic rainbow flag symbol into their February 2018 collection, to show support for the LGBTQ community. Economic conditions also influence fashion trends. When society is under pessimistic economic conditions, consumers will steer away from purchasing luxury goods. Cultural influences such as the “Black is Beautiful� movement, saw an increase of the number of African Americans and Non-African Americans wearing Afro hairstyles, as it became a symbol of black pride.
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THE IMPACT OF FASHION TRENDS. -
Society is more demanding for the newest fashion trends. ‘Fast fashion has accelerated the rate of fashion change. In 1998, the life span of a fashion trend was approximately one year, while in 2003 it was only a few months or even a few weeks. Presently, it has become even shorter – every week or every other week new styles are adopted.’ (Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011)
Environmental corners are being cut in order to supply the latest fashion trends as quickly as possible and at the lowest cost for retailers. The frequent desire for new clothes in vibrant colours and fabric finishes, is taking its toll on the environment, resulting in water pollution and higher levels of textile waste. ‘Textile dyeing is the second largest polluter of clean water globally behind oil pollution.’ (The Independent, 2018) Additionally, non-profit organisations like Fashion Revolution are confronting the impact that fast fashion has had globally, after the garment factory in Rana Plaza collapsed, killing 1,138 people. ‘Clothes have gone on a long journey before they hit store shelves, passing through the hands of cotton farmers, spinners, weavers, dyers, sewers and others. Approximately 75 million people work to make our clothes. 80% of them are women between the ages of 18 and 35.’ (Fashion Revolution, 2018) Fashion companies follow fast fashion trends in order to increase sales and profit, this comes at the expense of worker’s health, wealth and dignity. It is known that, ‘the majority of the people who makes clothes for the global market live in poverty, unable to afford life’s basic necessities. Many are subject to exploitation; verbal and physical abuse, working in unsafe and dirty conditions, with very little pay.’ (Fashion Revolution, 2018). People and the environment are suffering as a consequence of the sourcing of, production and consumption of fashion trends.
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TIMELESS TWEED SPRING / SUMMER 2018: TWEED.
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THE TREND. -
To grasp a better understanding of fashion trends, research was completed on one of this season’s hottest fashion trends: Tweed. This trend was selected after secondary research concluded that the brand Chanel, and their iconic use of Tweed, is having a large influence on high-street fashion this summer. A shop safari was then conducted in order to support this finding, and to determine how shops on the highstreet were adapting to the trend this summer and making it their own.
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TIMELESS TWEED:
TREND TRACKING. -
‘Tweed is a rough, naturally waterproof woollen fabric, which, until now, implied you own a country house, and enjoy shooting animals at weekends.’ (Hobbs, 2016)
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TREND TRACKING. This season, Tweed has been transformed from, ‘a robust traditional or rural character,’ (Evans, 2013) it now represents a classy yet chic persona thanks to Chanel’s interpretation of the fabric. The trend has trickled down from couture runway shows, particularly Lagerfeld’s Chanel Spring 18 Couture Catwalk, down to major high-street retailers. The fabric was first invented in the 1800s for farmers to endure British winters and was not worn by women until the 1880s. ‘From 1829 onwards, Tweed was transformed from hodden grey cloth, a local craft product made in the Borders of Scotland, into a fashion textile woven in a factory.’ (Anderson, 2006) Fashion designers like Chanel then realised the comfortable yet sophisticated eminence of the fabric and ‘began producing her iconic Tweed fabrics for everything from sportswear, to suits and coats.’ (Friedlander, 2014) Women took to wearing Tweed in the 1880s, then it became iconic in the 1930s after a TV show about ‘Miss Marple,’ featured the protagonist wearing a variety of country style Tweed suits. In more recent years it is perceived to be less countryside, and more haute couture fashion. ‘It swept the rest of the Milanese runways. Tweed this and Tweed that soon rolled into a bigger story called.. Texture.’ (Lowethorpe, 1999) Tweed was adopted by the likes of Chanel, Chloe and John Galliano in the 2000s creating a glamorous appeal to the fabric.
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This season, ‘Chanel’ Tweed and boucle is being interpreted in ways it has never been before, creating new shapes and dimensions from the fabric, as well as also maintaining classic styles that couture houses in Paris, made famous. The fabric has gained a youthful attractiveness due to the innovative styles that the catwalk is seeing. Chanel originally produced her Tweed in classic two-piece sets which high-street retailers use to inspire their Co-Ord sets, however this season Chanel are modifying their Tweed fabrics in new, inventive styles. Retailers like Zara and River Island have followed and are also transforming the classic ‘Chanel inspired’ Tweed into embellishments and contemporary clothing features. Spring Summer 2018 brings a new range of colours and silhouettes to Tweed fabric, introducing, colour ways and adaptions of the traditional fabric.
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DRIVERS OF THE TWEED TREND. -
The biggest drivers of this trend include print coverage from fashion and lifestyle magazines like ELLE and Vogue magazine. ELLE covered Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel Spring 18 Couture Catwalk which displayed how Chanel styles Tweed this season, attracting more youthful consumers to wear the trend. As well as editorial coverage, celebrities have driven the trend this season. Major fashion icons, like Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, and Kate Middleton have been spotted wearing Tweed garments, influencing a range of demographics to purchase replicas and outfits inspired by their wardrobe choices, leading to an increase in popularity of the Tweed trend this summer. Moreover, an increasing number of people from the Generation Z, and Millennial demographic are becoming interested in fashion forward retro films like Clueless and TV Series like Gossip Girl. Lots of younger girls are taking inspiration from the protagonist, Blair Waldorf and her costumes.
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‘Kendall Jenner’s New Look Is Straight Out Of Clueless’ (Vogue, 2017)
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PRIMARY RESEARCH & STREET STYLE.
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SHOP SAFARI & STREET STYLE. A Shop Safari on Nottingham high-street proved that Chanel inspired Tweed is a popular fashion trend this season. High-street stores like River Island and Zara stocked boucle clothing which clearly imitated a more luxury Tweed created by brands such as Chanel. After analysing the visual merchandising in each store it was apparent many of the mannequins were dressed in Tweed inspired garments, demonstrating ways in which customers can wear their products. It was noted that both stores offered a classical take on the trend as well as contemporary adaptation, from classic two-piece sets, to denim jeans embellished with boucle.
A photograph of Sophie (22) was taken in the Victoria Shopping Centre in the heart of Nottingham. She was wearing a MANGO, Tweed inspired blazer. She informed that; “I purchased this item because I thought it looked more expensive than its actual price...I bought it because I just don’t have many classy jackets in my wardrobe and I’d seen a few people on instagram wearing similar Tweed type clothes which I just took inspiration from, and then found this!”
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INTERVIEW & QUESTIONNAIRE RESULTS. -
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An interview with the Sales Manager at River Island in Nottingham allowed for a greater understanding of the success thus far into the Spring Summer 2018 season. When asked how successful she thought the trend will be at River Island, she answered; “I think it’s hit off quite well..this front trend is actually called ‘Chanel,’ head office actually named the trend Chanel, so we all thought that they were just trying to copy Chanel, but it’s actually done really well. It’s probably one of our best-selling looks which is why its kept at the front of every store in the company, so its staying there because it’s really selling. For the company it’s been a really good look!”
This answer was justified by the results of a questionnaire that was carried out, when the public was asked which words they associate with the current Tweed trend this season. The most popular responses were, ‘British Heritage, Classic, Expensive, CoOrd Sets/Smart wear, and Chanel.’
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INTERVIEW & QUESTIONNAIRE RESULTS CONTINUED -
Another question was then asked; ‘which style of your ‘Chanel Tweed’ inspired boucle garments sells best, either the classical two pieces or contemporary embellished garments?’ Her response was; “It’s a mixture of both..so, the company best seller is the plain black, ‘Molly’ Jean week after week, but one week our pearl/boucle side stripe jean was actually our best seller, and considering that’s sort of like a niche jean and it has a higher price point of around £50.., it sold really well… The pieces where it’s got a bit of Tweed patchwork on the clothing, and the little boucle details, have sold really well, but I’d say the more classic entire style, where you have the blazers and everything, as a whole have sold the best.”
She also explained that the younger females are buying their Chanel trend, as well as more mature women. The questionnaire also informed that from 80 females who responded, from a variety of different ages groups, 36.25% said that they would be likely to purchase and wear a Tweed/boucle garment, and 36.25% also answered. ‘maybe’ in response to this question, showing the evident interest in the trend this season. The questionnaire and interviews permitted an insight to how successful so far, the trend has been on the high-streets of Nottingham. It is currently more successful with an older demographic; older students and middle aged women. However, all age ranges are still buying the trend due to a wide range of influencers wearing tweed, inspiring all demographics to wear it too.
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HIGH-STREET STORE OBSERVATIONS. -
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THE PHOTOSHOOT.
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PHOTOSHOOT INSPIRATION MOODBOARD
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STYLING THE SHOOT. The objective of the photoshoot was to be able to capture photographs suitable for an editorial piece in a Vogue magazine. The target audience for this piece is Generation Y and the millennial generation; females who are captivated by fashion-forward, high-street and designer garments. Buyers of the Vogue Magazine typically have a slightly higher disposable income, and are keen followers of fashion. In order to appeal to this generation a friendly, yet refined and mature tone will be used to make the piece easy to read and interesting. The title for the editorial shoot is, ‘Timeless Tweed.’ The intention of the photoshoot was to flaunt the timelessness of the fabric, whilst also exhibiting the versatility and innovative ways to wear Tweed garments and accessories. The location chosen was a photo studio, which would offer natural lighting as well as artificial lighting. It was ideal to have the option of a variety of different plain coloured backgrounds so that the main focus could be on the garments and the model. Moreover, Gigi Hadid’s Vogue Netherlands 2015 Cover, inspired the location as, the grey background allows the audiences’ eyes to draw to the model and her clothing in the centre of the picture. The model was chosen because of her unique features that stood out when in front of the camera. She has a petite frame and an elegant yet bold demeanour that fitted the mood and captured the iconic Chanel disposition. Inspired by the Chanel SS18 campaign, it was decided that only one model would be used, to keep the focus on the garments and the fabric.
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TWEED PRODUCT INSPIRATION. -
Inspiration was gathered from websites to see how brands from Chanel to River Island were styling their outfits. A wide range of Tweed garments had to be sourced for this photoshoot from high-street stores in Nottingham such as Zara and River Island. Some of the clothing was inspired by classic, heritage Chanel pieces, and other pieces were selected to illustrate a contemporary adaptation of the trend. Accessories such as bags and sunglasses were used to prop the model to establish the correct ambiance and attitude, suggesting ways in which readers of the editorial can style the Timeless Tweed trend themselves.
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LOCATION -
Prior to making the final decision of which location would be used, the pros and cons of each possible location were weighed up, which led us to our conclusion of choosing a photography studio.
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OUTDOORS PROS:
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• • • • • Fig 45
HERITAGE TRADITIONAL AUTHENTIC CLASSIC NATURAL
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CONS: • • • • Fig 47
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WEATHER IMPRACTICAL EXPOSED TIME CONSUMING
STUDIO PROS: • • • • •
PRACTICAL CONTEMPORARY LIGHTING OPTIONS CONTROLLED MODERN
CONS: • • • •
SIMPLE LIMITED BACKDROPS LOCALITY COST
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THE EDITORIAL.
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TIMELESS TWEED.
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THIS SEASON TWEED IS BECOMING MORE WEARABLE THAT EVER. FROM CLASSY TO CASUAL, THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO STYLE THE TREND THIS SUMMER. For a casual approach, take a simple, colourful halter top, and pair with super skinny black jeans and a tweed clutch. Throw on a pair of sunglasses to finish a day-time look. Top: Zara, £12.99, Jeans: Topshop, £45, Bag: Zara, £29.99, Sunglasses: QUAY, £40.
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READY FOR THE RACES. Tweed also delivers a classical and elegant look that is perfect to be worn to summer weddings and the races, this season.
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Fig 56
River Island boast a Chanel inspired, boucle two-piece for £110. Adorn with a basic leotard and decorous ‘barely there’ heels to complete the look. Accessorize with a glass of champagne for ladies’ day.
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Fig 57
TWEED IS THE PERFECTLY VERSATILE, STAPLE OF CLOTHING THAT IS PRINCIPAL IN WARDROBES THIS SEASON. Mango contribute a tweed trim jacket for £49.99 to complete an outfit for smart-cas’ nights out. Paired with Topshop’s black ‘holding power’ Joni jeans, £45, a lacey bralet – Topshop £16, and ‘barely there’ heels.
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TWEED HAS TRAVELLED THROUGH TIME to become a refined, stylish, summer clothing essential; it has been interpreted into contemporary silhouettes and colour hues, to serve youthful and elegant vibes all summer. Thanks to haute couture fashion houses like Chanel, and their ready-to-wear collections, prevalent high-street retailers have been inspired to offer a classical and fun clothing option, wearable for all. ZARA TWEED DRESS - ÂŁ29.99
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CONCLUSION. It can be concluded that the summer fashion trend of wearing tweed, has had commercial success on Nottingham high-street. After interviewing the store manager of a popular high-street retailer, it gave an insight into how visual merchandisers were using the trend at the front of all of their stores to attract customers, provoking the conclusion that this is a popular trend this season, not only in Nottingham, but nationally too. Celebrities like Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid are sporting the trend with press coverage, their social media pages and in magazines. Also, icons like Kate Middleton are being spotted wearing tweed, meaning that many different demographics all over the world are taking interest in this fashion trend, furthermore demonstrating the global success that Tweed has had thus far. A questionnaire allowed a greater understanding of how the trend has been accepted as of yet, in which it can be deduced that the trend is still in its stages of growth, yet to reach maturity, as the trend awareness is still increasing. It is now expected by consumers that fast fashion trends are suitable for not only the catwalk, but for the environment too. Retailers are expected to consider the sourcing and production of their garments, ensuring that they treat their workers and the environment in a fair and sustainable manner. This is due to the increasing demand of the latest trends at a faster rate, which is resulting in damage to the environment, something that consumers are becoming progressively aware of. This project has allowed an in-depth understanding of the marketing of trends, how trends are born, the impact of fast fashion, and how different theories play a part in the life-cycle of fashion trends. It is now understood how a trend like Tweed can develop from something very practical and unfashionable, to an iconic fabric, suitable for haute couture runways, and fast fashion trends.
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REFERENCES. Anderson, F. (2006). This Sporting Cloth: Tweed, Gender and Fashion 1860– 1900. Textile History, 37(2), pp.166-186. Evans, D. (2013). The tweed revolution: from the countryside to the catwalk. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/ grey-fox/2013/oct/17/bold-tweed-wool-week [Accessed 9 May 2018]. Fashion Revolution. (2018). WHY DO WE NEED A FASHION REVOLUTION. [online] Available at: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about/ why-do-we-need-a-fashion-revolution/ [Accessed 5 May 2018]. Friedlander, R. (2014). How Coco Chanel Discovered Her Iconic Tweed. [online] ELLE. Available at: https://www.elle.com/fashion/news/a15402/thestory-of-chanels-Tweed/ [Accessed 7 May 2018]. Hobbs, J. (2016). Trend Test: British Heritage. [online] Vogue.co.uk. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/trend-test-how-to-wear-Tweed [Accessed 7 May 2018]. Kim, E., Fiore, A. and Kim, H. (2011). Fashion trends. Oxford: Berg. Lowethorpe, R. (1999). Fashion: Nothing twee about Tweed. [online] The Independent. Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/ fashion-nothing-twee-about-Tweed-1132528.html [Accessed 15 May 2018]. Raymond, M. (2010). The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing. The Independent. (2018). The environmental costs of fast fashion. [online] The Independent. Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/ environment-costs-fast-fashion-pollution-waste-sustainability-a8139386.html [Accessed 6 May 2018]. Vogue. (2017). Kendall Jenner’s New Look Is Straight Out of Clueless. [online] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/new-york-fashion-week-fall-2017ready-to-wear-celebrity-style-kendall-jenner-chanel [Accessed 7 May 2018].
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BIBLIOGRAPHY. Books:
Kim, E., Fiore, A. and Kim, H. (2011). Fashion trends. Oxford: Berg. Raymond, M. (2010). The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing.
Articles:
Anderson, F. (2006). This Sporting Cloth: Tweed, Gender and Fashion 1860–1900. Textile History, 37(2), pp.166-186.
Films:
Clothes To Die For. (2014). [film] Directed by Z. Hayes. Bangladesh: BBC.
Websites:
CHANEL. (2018). Ready-to-Wear - CHANEL. [online] Available at: https://www.chanel.com/en_GB/fashion/ products/ready-to-wear/spring-summer.html [Accessed 16 May 2018]. Chen, V. (2017). If tweed could talk: Coco’s beloved fabric symbolises Chanel’s evolution. [online] South China Morning Post. Available at: http://www.scmp.com/magazines/style/fashion-beauty/article/2108790/coco-lagerfeldinnovative-evolution-chanels-tweed [Accessed 29 May 2018]. Evans, D. (2013). The tweed revolution: from the countryside to the catwalk. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/grey-fox/2013/oct/17/bold-tweed-wool-week [Accessed 9 May 2018]. Fashion Revolution. (2018). WHY DO WE NEED A FASHION REVOLUTION. [online] Available at: https://www. fashionrevolution.org/about/why-do-we-need-a-fashion-revolution/ [Accessed 5 May 2018]. Friedlander, R. (2014). How Coco Chanel Discovered Her Iconic Tweed. [online] ELLE. Available at: https://www.elle. com/fashion/news/a15402/the-story-of-chanels-Tweed/ [Accessed 7 May 2018]. Hobbs, J. (2016). Trend Test: British Heritage. [online] Vogue.co.uk. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/ trend-test-how-to-wear-Tweed [Accessed 7 May 2018]. Joseph Turner. (2018). What Is Tweed? A Guide To ‘the Big Cloth’. [online] Available at: https://www.josephturner. co.uk/customer/pages/about/what_is_tweed#invent [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Lowethorpe, R. (1999). Fashion: Nothing twee about Tweed. [online] The Independent. Available at: https://www. independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/fashion-nothing-twee-about-Tweed-1132528.html [Accessed 15 May 2018]. Mallory-Pratt, R. (2017). 5 Sustainability Threats Facing Fashion. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/5-sustainability-threats-facing-fashion [Accessed 14 Apr. 2018] . Op de Beek, P. (2018). Three sustainability trends shaping the future of the fashion industry. [online] Carbontrust. com. Available at: https://www.carbontrust.com/news/2018/03/sustainability-trends-future-of-fashion-industry/ [Accessed 1 May 2018] Taverna, N. (n.d.). Unraveling The History of Tweed Fabric. [online] Primer. Available at: https://www. primermagazine.com/2017/learn/unraveling-the-history-of-tweed [Accessed 2 May 2018]. The Independent. (2018). The environmental costs of fast fashion. [online] The Independent. Available at: https:// www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/environment-costs-fast-fashion-pollution-waste-sustainability-a8139386. html [Accessed 6 May 2018]. Sampson, L. (2015). How To Wear Tweed Today. [online] FashionBeans. Available at: http://www.fashionbeans. com/2015/how-to-wear-tweed-today/ [Accessed 16 May 2018]. Vogue. (2017). Kendall Jenner’s New Look Is Straight Out of Clueless. [online] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/ article/new-york-fashion-week-fall-2017-ready-to-wear-celebrity-style-kendall-jenner-chanel [Accessed 7 May 2018]. Vogue (2018). London Fashion Week news and features. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/event/londonfashion-week [Accessed 1 May 2018].
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IMAGE REFERENCES. Front Cover - Rebecca Green, (2018) Close Up Of Tweed Garments Black And White, [image] Fig. 2 - Katya Ackermann, (n.d) It’s all about Chanel, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www. instagram.com/katyackermann/ Fig. 3 – Chanel, (n.d). Chanel Tweed Jacket 1950s. (ONLINE) Available at: https:// designervintage.gjstatic.nl/thumbnails/GenjArticleBundle/Article/fileUpload/detail/00/14/15/ chanel-s-tweed-jacket-1415.jpg Fig. 4 – Rebecca Green, (2018) The Fashion Life-Cycle, [image] Created 18 May 2018 Fig. 5 – Rebecca Green, (2018) The Diffusion of innovation diagram, [image] Created on 18 May 2018 Fig.6 – Dan Roberts, (2017) The Best Street Style of LFW, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www. vogue.com/slideshow/street-style-mens-fall-2017#6 Fig. 7 - Rachel Sharp, (2017) Kaia Gerber for Chanel SS18, (ONLINE) Available at: https:// grazia.com.au/articles/fashion-2017-defining-moments/ Fig. 8 - Pinterest, (n.d) Black is Beautiful, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/848224911040317147/?lp=true Fig. 9 - Bente Stachowske, (2018) A “Trash Queen” wears a 7-metre-long train made from used clothing, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.greenpeace.org/international/story/16087/want-afairer-fashion-industry-this-is-what-you-can-do/ Fig. 10 - Krochet Kids, (2017), Fashion Revolution Week, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www. krochetkids.org/2017/fashion-revolution-week-is-here/ Fig. 11 – Chanel, (n.d) Chanel Boutiques, (ONLINE) Available at: http://www.puretrend.com/ media/puretrend-publicite-chanel_m200989 Fig. 12 – Pinterest, (n.d) 1950s Tweed coat with fur collar, (Online) Available at: https://www. pinterest.co.uk/pin/268597565261479097/ Fig. 13 - BBC, (n.d) Miss Marple, (ONLINE), Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/533324780845173061/ Fig. 14 – Wonderland Magazine, (2018) PFW: Chanel SS18, (ONLINE) Available at: https:// www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2017/10/03/pfw-chanel-ss18/ Fig. 15 – Vogue, (2017) Kendall Jenner’s New Look Is Straight Out of Clueless, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/new-york-fashion-week-fall-2017-ready-to-wearcelebrity-style-kendall-jenner-chanel Fig. 16 - Popsugar, (n.d) Kate Middleton Wears Gucci Tweed, (ONLINE) Available at: https:// www.popsugar.co.uk/gdpr?utm_medium=redirect&utm_campaign=US:GB&utm_source=www. google.com&gdpr Fig. 17 - MarieClaire, (2014) Rihanna Gives Chanel Tweed A Cute Coral Update, (ONLINE) Available at: http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/celebrity-news/rihanna-gives-chanel-tweed-acute-coral-update-and-looks-chicer-than-ever-107486 Fig. 18 - Mondanite, (2017) Chanel SS18 RTW Collection, (ONLINE) Available at: http://www. mondanite.net/article/4599/chanel-ss-2018-rtw-collection Fig. 19 - Alique, (2015) Gigi Hadid for Vogue Netherlands 2015, (ONLINE) Available at: http:// visualoptimism.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/gigi-hadid-by-alique-for-vogue.html Fig. 20 – Rebecca Green, (2018) Street Style ‘Sophie’ [image] Fig. 21 – Rebecca Green, (2018) Street Style ‘Sophie’ Close Up [image] Fig. 22 – Rebecca Green, (2018) River Island boucle gold blazer [image] Fig. 23 - Rebecca Green, (2018) River Island Visual Merchandising ‘Chanel’ Wall [image] Fig. 24 - Rebecca Green, (2018) River Island Striped Boucle Blazer [image] Fig. 25 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Boucle Stripe Side Jeans [image] Fig. 26 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Red River Island Boucle Blazer [image] Fig. 27 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Zara Tweed Skirt [image] Fig. 28 – Rebecca Green, (2018) Zara Red Faux Tweed T-Shirt [image] Fig. 29 - Rebecca Green, (2018) T-Shirt and Boucle Blazer River Island [image] Fig. 30 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Zara Tweed Trim Kimono Close Up [image]
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IMAGE REFERENCES CTD. Fig. 31 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Zara Tweed Coat [image] Fig. 32 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Photoshoot Inspiration Moodboard [image] Fig. 33 - Chanel, (2018), Look 5, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.chanel.com/en_GB/ fashion/p/rtw/18P-commercial/look-005.html Fig. 34 - Chanel, (2018), Look 19, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.chanel.com/en_GB/ fashion/p/rtw/18P-commercial/look-019.html Fig. 35 - Chanel, (2018), Look 23, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.chanel.com/en_GB/ fashion/p/rtw/18P-commercial/look-023.html Fig. 36 - Zara, (2018), Tweed Contrasting Top, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.zara.com/ uk/en/contrasting-Tweed-top-p07385029.html?v1=5819521&v2=719021 Fig. 37 - Chanel (2018), Classic Handbag, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.chanel.com/ en_GB/fashion/p/hdb/a01112y83508/a01112y83508me518/classic-handbag-embroidered-Tweedsilvertone-metal-black-navy-blue-ecru.html Fig. 38 - Zara, (2018), Tweed Blazer, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.zara.com/uk/en/ Tweed-blazer-p02960793.html?v1=6157074&v2=797504 Fig. 39 - Chanel, (2018), Flap Bag, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.chanel.com/en_GB/ fashion/p/hdb/a57652y83590/a57652y83590k0804/flap-bag-knit-silvertone-metal-pink-white. html Fig. 40 - Topshop, (2018), Boucle Suit, (ONLINE) Available at: http://www.topshop.com/en/tsuk/ product/boucle-suit- 7661147?bi=0&ps=20&bundle=true&Ntt=boucle Fig. 41 - River Island, (2018) Light Pink Double Breasted Jacket, (ONLINE) Available at: https:// www.riverisland.com/p/light-pink-boucle-double-breasted-jacket-718507 Fig. 42 - Zara, (2018), Tweed Two Piece, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.zara.com/uk/en/ Tweed-skirt-with-trims-p02417604.html?v1=5815672&v2=719016 Fig. 43 - River Island, (2018) Light Pink Baker Hat, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www. riverisland.com/p/light-pink-boucle-baker-boy-hat-713795 Fig. 44 - Ben Evans, (2017) Chanel Decoded: The History Behind It’s Latest Timepiece, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/47428602310462687/ Fig. 45 - Gammies Country Clothing, (n.d) Ladies Country Wear, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.gammiescountryclothing.co.uk/browse/Womens/?page=14 Fig. 46 - Gammies Country Clothing, (n.d) Men’s and Women’s Country Wear, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.gammiescountryclothing.co.uk/browse/Womens/?page=14 Fig. 47 - Deviant Art, (2018) Countryside Field, (ONLINE) Available at: https://l-a-addams. deviantart.com/art/field-stock-background-stock-english-countryside-382158203 Fig. 48 - 30 James Street, (2017) Fashion in Liverpool, (ONLINE) Available at: https:// rmstitanichotel.co.uk/get-ready-aintree-30-james-street-races-collection/ Fig. 49 - Pinterest, (n.d) Photography Studio, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.pinterest. co.uk/pin/337136722100079163/ Fig. 50 - Alique, (2015) Gigi Hadid for Vogue Netherlands 2015, (ONLINE) Available at: http:// visualoptimism.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/gigi-hadid-by-alique-for-vogue.html Fig. 51 - Pinterest, (n.d) Photography Studio, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www.pinterest. co.uk/pin/337136722100079163/ Fig. 52 - Karl Lagerfeld, (2018) Chanel ss18 ready-to-wear campaign, (ONLINE) Available at: http://www.premierhairandmakeup.com/news/496-chanel-ss18/ Fig. 53 - Instructables, (2014), Portable Photo Studio, (ONLINE) Available at: https://www. pinterest.co.uk/pin/ASeF6dD48PHLXjtc5KFEF-GbXKkrVLBVRTWJS7BcsjXU6VbobIZLtZI/ Fig. 54 – Rebecca Green, (2018) Editorial: Casual Day-Time Outfit [image] Fig. 55 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Editorial: Races Ready – Close Up [image] Fig. 56 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Editorial: Races Ready – Full Outfit [image] Fig. 57 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Editorial: Versatility – Close Up [image] Fig. 57 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Editorial: Versatility – Full Outfit [image] Fig. 57 - Rebecca Green, (2018) Editorial: Head Shot – Close Up [image]
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APPENDIX I Interview 13/05/18 – Rochelle Taylor-Pick, Sales Manager, River Island. Q: What would you say is the typical demographic of the people who are buying your Tweed/Boucle stock? A: It’s one end of the spectrum or the other, you either get really young girls buying the twopiece sets as they see it as really fashionable because they’ve seen bloggers in it, otherwise it goes completely to the other end, where its women and older women who want to get the blazers. But, I’d say the blazers get picked up by more or less all age ranges, whereas the twopiece set gets picked up by younger girls/students.
Q: How successful do you think the River Island adaption of the Tweed trend has been? A: It’s been popular, we have had a complete sell through, so the boucle blazers that we’ve got in the creamy colour, we also sell it in a pure white, and that has completely sold out online and in every store- we’ve only got one left, so it’s really hard to get hold of that pure white one. It’s done really well for us, I don’t think the two-piece has done as much, but the blazers have especially done well.
Q: Which style of Tweed/Boucle would you say has sold the best, either the more classic style of the contemporary adaptations you have and why? A: It’s a mixture of both so, at one point – so, the company best seller is the plain black, ‘Molly’ Jean week after week, but one week our pearl/boucle side stripe jean was actually our best seller, and considering that’s sort of like a niche jean and it has a higher price point of around £50, compared to the £40 for our black ‘Molly’, it sold really well. So, I think that the pieces where it’s got a bit of Tweed patchwork on the clothing, and the little boucle details, have sold really well, but I’d say the more classic entire style, where you have the blazers and everything, as a whole have sold the best.
Q: Do you think, over all that tweed has been/will be a successful trend of Spring Summer 2018, and why? A: I think it’s hit off quite well, because I think it can be applied to be – so this here, this front trend is actually called ‘Chanel,’ head office actually named the trend Chanel, so we all thought that they were just trying to copy Chanel, but it’s actually done really well. It’s probably one of our best-selling looks which is why its kept at the front of every store in the company, so its staying there because it’s really selling. For the company it’s been a really good look, I’m not too sure about other brands but I don’t think Topshop’s followed suit, so for the company its doing really well definitely. I think Zara also goes down the more classic route too, and I think the customer who typically buys this trend is also a Zara customer too, whereas the typical customer who shops our jersey trend, with all the t-shirts and strappy tops, isn’t like a Zara customer, and won’t normally shop the ‘Chanel’ trend – they tend to be a lot younger.
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APPENDIX II Interview 13/05/18 – Sophie, 21, Nottingham. Q: Why did you purchase this item? A: I purchased this item because I thought it looked more expensive than its actual price, it looks like it could have a designer label on it, but actually its just from the highstreet, and I love a good find like that!!
Q: What made you buy something in the Tweed style? A: I bought it because I just don’t have many classy jackets in my wardrobe and I’d seen a few people on instagram wearing similar Tweed type clothes which I just took inspiration from, like I do with most other outfits and then found this! I wanted black or white Tweed though, not colourful as I was hoping to wear it to work or to somewhere where smart clothing is required, so this was literally the perfect thing.
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APPENDIX III
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INTERVIEW CONSENT FORM
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APPENDIX IV QUESTIONNAIRE
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APPENDIX VI
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