Wedding Trader - issue 35

Trade Shows

TIME FOR A CHANGE IN THE UK... WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE?

Opinions

WE HEAR FROM THOSE WHO HAVE SOMETHING TO SAY

Shimmer and shine

PILING ON THAT EXTRA DETAIL TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE

HERE FOR THEBRITISHGREAT BRIDALWEAR RETAILERS

David’s Bridal

WILL THEY FIND A BUYER THIS TIME?

BRITISH BY DESIGN

‘40 Years of Love’

Introducing our stunning new Romantica bridal collection, a celebration of 40 years making brides dreams come true.

For more information about becoming a stockist, please email: sales@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Ed’s Letter I

t’s been a hectic few months for many, with trade show after trade show across Europe and the US, and single-brand options in hotel suites, so it is hardly surprising that exhibitors, visitors and event organisers themselves are asking questions about the best way forward for the industry.

Retailers see their buying time as an essential investment, and multiple venues simply reduce choice; having to scurry from one to another in the same city, on the same exhibition days, serves only to fragment a business plan, and reduces numbers visiting the main show arena. It is time that organisers came up with a plan that is able to deliver the right proposition to suppliers and retailers.

In Germany, in April, European Bridal Week and Interbride, competing shows for a number of years, came together in Essen for the first time. Retailers had the opportunity to buy from 500 collections – under one roof. They no longer have to make the decision between shows, delaying ordering from one until they have attended the other. Now, that sounds like a positive step, and one that was welcomed. And the attraction of a big show like Barcelona, where so much is included in its glossy offering, is another lesson to learn from. Getting the right designer names is vital – after all they are the audience pullers – and no-one does it better than Barcelona. Prices have to be right, too, for exhibitors themselves, and for visiting retailers who have travel costs and accommodation to consider. Lots to think about...

Andy Allen Art Director

“The demise of David’s Bridal, whether liquidated or sold on, has good and bad points.” (p34)

Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding

“Keeping up with the times is a game-changer. Wedding Belles of Four Oaks story says it all.” (p26)

Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales

“New names to the UK bridal arena will always fascinate. Kolin Weaver has an amazing past... and future.” (p68)

Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

To make an appointment to view the new collections, please contact: Michelle Blackburn: 07935 156275 | michelle@casablancabridal.eu

Style and quality together

Every dress in the Ellis Bridals collections tells a story and stands out in terms of quality and originality. Nothing is simple or basic; everything makes an unforgettable style statement. Construction is key to the proposition to ensure the finest fit and most luxurious finish. The new collection layers detail on detail, brilliantly conceived to have an instantly recognisable personality. There are marvellous interpretations of high fashion features –in sleeves that add a new dimension, necklines that create a focal point as well as a talking point, oversized bows to emphasize sculpted lines, detachables to introduce the possibility of change and offer multiple looks. Check it out, and also the fabulous sister collection, Kelsey Rose. www.ellisbridals.co.uk

TALKING POINT

The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

TOO TRUE

True Bride offers four bridal collections, designed in house at its Brighton studio – True Bride, Nicki Flynn by True Bride, True Curves and Brighton Belle. And for the best girls there is True Bridesmaids, Luna by True Bride, Essential and Junior Styles. Something for everyone, certainly. Astrid by Brighton Belle, above, is all about retro vibes, while Ripley, below, from the new True Bride collection spells A-list glamour. www.truebride.co.uk

Clutching on to an heirloom piece

Every one of Freya Rose’s beautiful mother of pearl clutches is handcrafted using the finest materials, inlaid by experienced artisan jewellers whose combination of distinctive shells and skilful techniques have been mastered over generations. Sculpted into contemporary silhouettes, every pearl bag is lined in opulent black velvet. And the size is perfect – after all, says Freya, all a bride needs is her lipstick, tissues, a compact and a safety pin in case of emergencies.

www.freyarose.com

MAKING UP THE PICTURE

Groomswear is getting increasingly glamorous, with great fabrics, cool cuts and intricate details. The colours in the Torre collection from Portugal, right, are stunning, while Germany’s Wilvorst, far right, carries a message of sustainability.

Harrogate Fashion Week announces expansion of July show to encompass four halls

The organisers of HFW, 30 July–1 August, have announced that they have signed for a fourth hall at the Harrogate Convention Centre, which gives an extra 1,600sqm of growth for this popular show.

Wendy Adams explains: “It was a big decision but with some fabulous new brands joining us and a waiting list of brands we are still in consultation with, that extra space is definitely needed.”

Carol Capener, owner of Carol C Collections, has been a long-time supporter of the Harrogate show.

“HFW is a great show for us... we have been there since the launch five years ago and exhibited every season ever since, watching the show go from strength to strength.

“The agency has also grown with the show, so much so that we now require more space, and as a result we are looking forward to moving to our new home in Hall A in July. We are introducing new brands

into our portfolio for SS24, and HFW is the perfect place to launch them.

“Our buyers are from all over the UK and love coming to HFW to write their orders in the relaxed environment. It is no longer a Northern show as we see customers from far and wide. Who wouldn’t love coming to visit the beautiful spa town of Harrogate for the weekend! We can’t wait for the next show, and the first three-day show at that!”

New brands to see in July include Berek, Callagha, Dibia, Dream Handprint Apparel, eb&ive, EsQuala,Yest, Eliza Gracious, Fuego, the Godske Group, Golle Haug, Haven, Junge, Le Comte, Mansted, Maria Bellentani, Meri Esca, PINNS, Rainbow Club, Suzie Blue, Thanny, Traffic People, Thro’backs by Nique, Ubu, Victoria Charles Headpieces, Walk in Pitas, Zhrill, and Zoe.

Registration is now open for visitors and the full brand list will be online. www.harrogatefashionweek.com

First Person

With the key exhibitions over for the first half of the year, Laura Daly looks at the pros and cons of the UK’s offerings

After several years of writing for this fine publication, I guess by now you probably all know that I’m particularly fond of a bit of bridal shopping; the buzz of the halls, the various designers, the styles and, of course, the glitz and the glamour - I adore it all! I readily admit to being what some might call a rather (ahem) “seasoned buyer”, and maybe even a bit like an addict who needs ever more of the same just to get the fix.

I also know it takes a lot to amaze me these days and

what I’m going to say may not be an opinion that is widely shared… but I’m going there anyway!

I can’t help feeling that our industry is gradually losing the very essence that made it so special. When I first opened Bellissima, the great and the good of the UK’s bridal industry met up twice a year in Harrogate to purchase our dresses and accessories. September was reserved for the main season collections, while March was for topping up – rarely would we purchase a whole new season’s worth of dresses (as many designers only produced one collection per year), and accessories were the main focus.

Harrogate positives

Harrogate is such a unique place in offering not only a world-class exhibition space, but also all manner of accommodation for different budgets and lots of easy options for socialising in the evenings. I’m pretty

Laura Daly Owner of Bellissima Weddings... always a winner

sure that most retailers were more than happy to make the pilgrimage twice a year – there was always a bit of excitement in the atmosphere. Even today, the September show still has that special something about it.

It’s not my place to delve into the reasons why, over the years, the March show moved to London. There may have been any number of factors taken into account by those who made the decision. No doubt some more valid than others in the eyes of the humble retailers on whom it was imposed.

London negatives

Fast forward to March 2023, and I personally found the latest London Excel show to be a poor representation of our industry. While Excel may be suitable for many industries’ annual exhibitions and shows, it simply doesn’t fit with the bridal world’s unique characteristics, which are led by emotions, artistry and personal relationships.

I know that many London venues have been tried out in the past but the truth is that, for so many people, London just seems to be a bit, how can I put it… “meh.” It’s incredibly expensive for all concerned and there’s no convenient attractive place where we can all socialise and let our hair down.

This year, the Retail Bridalwear Association couldn’t afford to hold their awards event, as all possible venues had doubled their prices, so there wasn’t even a party to attend! Some labels decided to exhibit outside of the centre, which meant taking trains or cabs or both to get to

see everything and which, of course, eats into precious time and money, making purchasing so much harder! Those in the halls looked like they were simply making the best of a bad job. The VIP lounge is always so oversubscribed that you feel like you’ve hit the jackpot if you manage to get that rare combination of a sandwich and a seat. My word, the luxuries we enjoy!

There was no atmosphere, no buzz, nothing exciting. The décor was lovely, but nothing more than it should be for such a prestigious show. However, for me, it was the lack of designers and suppliers and, ultimately, buyers, that resulted in such a lacklustre event. Maybe it’s time for the organisers to consider another venue or take the show out of London, as it’s quickly becoming the poor relation to the Harrogate event. Any further loss of exhibitors, and it won’t be worth buyers attending at all, even for a day.

And you know what? That’s a real pity, as the UK has a strong network of retailers and suppliers which is so unique and should be cultivated and appreciated, not left to wither through lack of ambition. Other European countries can only dream of communicating and collaborating as we do, but without a cohesive exhibition, what can we do as buyers?

Our special world is vibrant . It never sleeps – it’s supportive, it’s creative, it deserves more, and the truth is that, these days, it’s increasingly finding itself drawn to a tapas bar in Barcelona!

“Maybe it’s time for the organisers to consider another venue or take the show out of London, as it’s quickly becoming the poor relation to the Harrogate event.”

MAKE A DATE

We can blame Covid for many changes in our lives, both personally and professionally, but one Sue Lovell is very grateful for is the public’s acceptance of bridal shops working on an appointment only basis

Iknow my bridal studio is on a different, smaller scale than probably most shops, so I have always worked to appointments only. Before lockdown, drop-ins were more common, as were the times that we had to turn people away because we were too busy. That can cause offense, as often people do not want to be told no, and their expectations of how they should be received, even when unannounced, may be different to the actual realities of a busy shop.

No matter how nice you are explaining it, that dampens the mood and takes the edge off the excitement, and those brides may not want to wait or come back. Since we were able to open again after lockdown by appointment only, to stay within the rules, pre-booked appointments are now the accepted norm, and my brides at least are very happy with that.

A clear advantage

The benefits for operating on an appointment-only basis far outweighs any negatives for me. My brides know they have my full attention, they know that not only am I expecting them, but I already know their budget, their venue and their wedding date.

I have already established communication with them, and they know what to expect when they come to me. So, instantly, we are starting the appointment with both parties having some understanding of what we can expect, and we can explore all opportunities from there. We both know the length of the appointment, so we aren’t rushed or hurried along, and it definitely gives a more personal feeling to the appointments.

Usually, the important people are with the bride, having scheduled into their week the time to support and encourage her, because they

take it seriously, too. Dress shopping is an important business, and it’s not very often that a wedding dress is purchased on a whim.

With the majority of us having calendars and schedules on our phones, plus the ease of booking online, it means that brides are in control of their wedding planning,

professionally.

Our hairdressers are usually all pre-booked, and our dentists are fully booked for months in advance, and they often charge for the appointments ahead of time, too. Equally, if you are planning a romantic meal for two at a special restaurant, you can’t leave it to chance and hope they have a table for you – you book ahead to ensure they are expecting you, so you are guaranteed the time and the space to enjoy your evening.

and a retailer’s time is mapped out, allowing us the flexibility of making the best use of not only our time, but that of our staff.

There are always jobs that need doing, that shouldn’t be done in view of customers, so if you know you have available staff who don’t have selling appointments that afternoon, then they can still be productive and complete other tasks.

By working to appointments, staff productivity can be increased, and customer satisfaction is maximised. Brides who have an appointment expect to have your undivided attention, and they don’t expect to have their valuable time taken up with staff dealing with unexpected visitors.

Dress shopping is more than finding something to wear – in fact, I don’t think ‘shopping’ is even a word you should associate with finding a wedding dress.

It is an event, and one to be treasured. You wouldn’t pop into the dentist and expect them to they have a spare 30 minutes to fill a tooth. Nor would you call into a hairdressing salon and expect them to have a new colour and cut, because we all know that preparation is required to provide that type of service successfully and

We trust that if we have an appointment, then our host is expecting us, and is ready to deliver excellent service. That time is ours, we have reserved it. However, if you see somewhere you like the look of when passing, you may pop in to just ask if you could make an appointment; and you would expect a cheery and welcoming greeting.

But would you be prepared to actually have the work done then and there if the dentist was twiddling his thumbs or the colourist could quickly squeeze you in?

Brides are making appointments because generally they want to buy, or at least start their dress search, with the intention of buying. They want their time with us to be valued.

The right time

Pre-booked appointments also help build trust and a strong relationship; it is comforting to know that the consultant a bride saw previously will be with her again, if she wants to come back to buy. That can’t always be guaranteed with a ‘drop in when you are passing’ approach.

Just like having your hair done, or your teeth polished, dress shopping is a considered activity, and time needs to be put aside to focus on it. Obviously, it’s far more fun, but it still

“Dress shopping is more than finding something to wear – in fact, I don’t think ‘shopping’ is even a word you should associate with finding a wedding dress .”

needs to be scheduled.

As with everything new, there are pros and cons in working to an appointment-only schedule. For me, it keeps my week organised,

I have my own private studio, as well as a couple of other projects connected to bridal which take up my time, plus family commitments that have me pulled in more directions than a 1990s Stretch Armstrong. I also have a very busy alterations studio, so I have to be organised to move from ‘retail to the finer detail’.

There are a number of different online booking systems that are easy to use and simple to incorporate on your website; being user-friendly is vital, and checking the speed of your website is advised. Life is far too short for many of us who are afflicted with the attention span of a gnat on acid, and many brides are like me –we just couldn’t be bothered to wait in line for Patience when they were giving out virtues.

A fun fact – humans have the attention span of 8.5 seconds on average, meaning we have a shorter attention span than a goldfish. So if you are still with me, I think that qualifies you as a super human.

Where were we? Oh yes, Booking

Systems. Bridalive is always my goto – it’s a full Customer Relationship Management system that is so easy and intuitive, and accessible.

I can see my entire business at any time and anywhere, and create, reschedule and take new appointments, plus update invoices and all the other things it offers.

If you don’t want to have a full CRM system, then take a look at Calendly. You can have a free version, or upgrade to the paid software. Text Anywhere is also a great tool too, to contact your upcoming appointments in one go.

To charge or not to charge

That brings us on to the dreaded ‘no shows’ and whether to charge for appointments. I don’t charge, and luckily I don’t suffer from many ‘no shows’, mainly because I email confirmation at the time of the booking, and a reminder a day or so before. I take all their contact details, so I will often call on the day of the appointment to introduce myself, and let my bride know I am looking forward to meeting her.

If I have a waiting list for a Saturday, I will call at the start of the week. This gives my bride time to let me know if

she is unable to attend, and we can either reschedule or part ways at that point. It is hugely frustrating to have appointments booked, and then find yourself decidedly less busy than you had anticipated, and often when you then try to contact the customer, you are met with silence. There is no excuse for that level of rudeness, so charging for appointments may be a way to avoid this. It works well for many stores, and is proven to reduce no shows. I find, though, that prior communication works best, but it’s no guarantee.

Being accessible to customers is a blessing as well as a curse, as I have not learned to find my own ‘off switch’, so I am prone to answering messages 24/7, and my little Apple Watch sends ripples of electricity through my left arm to tell me another appointment has been requested or a message sent. Many of my appointments booked on my website at night are from nurses and other nightshift workers.

My family do not always think it’s appropriate to have my business at my fingertips, and I do need to learn to take a step back, but if I don’t respond instantly, I am afraid my Gnat brain will forget that I need to reply.

THE FOUNDERS

2007-2011

Happy Birthday Sweet 16!

If you want a bit of inspiration, there’s no one better to ask than an award winner who has never stood still and never followed trends, but always moved forward to create their own story. Let’s hear it from Claire and Melanie of Wedding Belles of Four Oaks, on their own, very individual path

This year on 16 June, we’re celebrating our ‘Sweet 16th’! It feels like just yesterday we started this journey, and yet here we are, still going strong.

We’ve seen our business flourish in the past few years on its journey into

adulthood. We’ve found our identity, grown in more ways than one, and experienced the kind of makeover that paid homage to every 2000s romcom.

Reflecting on our journey we want to share with you the changes we’ve

made, the research we’ve done and our top tips. We hope this article inspires you, whether you’re a new business owner or a seasoned pro!

Over the years, our bridal boutique has undergone a significant transformation; like a modern-day

Melanie Storer and Claire Jackson back in the early days

2012-2018

Bridget Jones, we’ve taken risks and created our own happily ever after, implementing various strategies and initiatives that have helped us grow and develop our surface area, company culture, customer experiences and social media presence.

All change

Some of the most significant changes we made were establishing a defined brand platform for our business and aligning our boutique refurbishment, website update, social media platforms and products to our creative and messaging frameworks.

Drawing on a series of market research initiatives, customer surveys and social listening, we based our creative and messaging outputs on insights generated to ensure how we presented to the world resonated with our target audience.

As Simon Sinek famously said: “People don’t buy what you do; they buy why you do it.” We’ve found our customers are not just interested in what our business offers, but also why we offer it.

How we communicate our purpose and beliefs is essential to customer connection and brand loyalty. Homing in on the bridal experience and the element of real beauty, we aligned our boutique décor, social

involving us in their special moments throughout their journey to the altar; customer-created content across multi-media platforms has helped us increase our online presence and drive more traffic to our website.

On the topic of media marketing, one of our biggest changes has been the form of our content across social media platforms. Nowadays, content that receives the highest engagement is short to medium-length videos.

media branding and appointment experiences to connect with the bride on her level. Aligning with our brand platform we devised and executed tactics such as Instagram walls, shoprelated hashtags, and personalised branded merchandise. Our call to action was for brides to continue

Increasing this type of content featuring the likes of our boutique, unique collections, brides and the magical moments we create every day, paired with trending sounds and hashtags, has helped us continue to develop an authentic and recognisable brand identity that resonates with our target audience and drives sales.

Audience awareness

We all have a part to play in market-

“We’ve found that our customers are not just interested in what our business offers, but also why we offer it.”

2018-2020

shaping from championing body and ethnic diversity to highlighting unrealistic societal beauty standards. In our quest to support our brides in bringing out their inner beauty, we’ve fine-tuned our wedding dress collections to better serve the needs and preferences of a wider demographic of brides.

Meeting market needs and wants

Active listening has been essential in obtaining insightful and actionable customer feedback. Expanding our offering to different body shapes, sizes and unconventional unique styles has elevated our turnover rates and increased engagement with the modern-day daring bride.

Optimising our efficiency, processes and staff engagement over the past few years has been a large focus for our business. With an increase in sales, staff numbers and the sheer amount of day-to-day admin

processing, we’ve seen how essential a streamlined, organised and positive environment is.

Our main changes in this area were investing in a fully digital workflow, refining staff onboarding and investing in our team’s personal development. Investing in a seamless digital workflow for the entire team included a fully online admin system, project management software, digital marketing tools, adoption of an online booking system and increased access to hand-held digital devices.

Becoming digitised allowed us to attune to the lifestyle of the modernday bride, providing seamless and quick access to our resources while equipping our sales teams with the tools to provide on-the-spot immediate answers, from delivery timelines to customisation queries.

Our streamlined process also allowed us to keep all admin highly organised and transition into a

completely paperless business. With the expansion of our team, we utilised all readily available digital resources to create a well-structured onboarding and training process for new hires, supporting internal team engagement.

Teamwork

Our staff are essentially the heart of our business, and we make sure to invest in their development by providing in-house training plans and skill days.

One of our business strategies is to be the best place to work, and this includes fostering a creative and supportive environment. Investing in development has grown their capabilities and created a good work culture.

Our team is now better equipped to handle any challenge, and they take pride in their work and their contribution to our success.

TOP 10 TIPS FROM WEDDING BELLES OF FOUR OAKS

1. Establish a clear brand platform for your business that aligns with your messaging and creative output.

2. Use insights generated from market research, customer surveys and social listening to resonate with your target audience.

3. Communicate your purpose and beliefs to create a customer connection and brand loyalty.

4. Create short to medium-length video content featuring your business and product and establish a clear multi-media marketing strategy.

2020-2023

News in the making

Finally, the biggest change is the upcoming summer launch of our new boutique ‘The Bridal Outlet by Wedding Belles of Four Oaks’. The Bridal outlet has come about as a result of the current market gap for bridal off-the-peg sales. We noticed that brides were looking for more affordable options, and we are capitalising on this by offering a boutique dedicated to a range of beautiful off-the-peg dresses, whilst helping to keep our rails clutter free from the ongoing issue we all face right now with having too many dress samples!

Getting recognised

As a business owner in the bridal community, we can say this journey has been truly rewarding. We’ve been fortunate that these changes and developments have allowed us to experience many highs over

the years, from winning the TWIA national awards for the best bridal retailer in 2021 and 2023 to tripling our workforce and expanding our current shop and opening a new one, we’ve come a long way in the past 16 years. Through implementing various strategies and initiatives, we have transformed our business to better serve the needs and preferences of modern-day brides. We’ve finetuned our wedding dress collections, expanded our offerings and leveraged social media to increase engagement with our target audience.

We’ve never shied away from change and continue to evolve our business strategy. Our success has been a labour of love, and we couldn’t have done it without the love and support of our family, friends, and most importantly, our amazing customers. Here’s to many more years of creating unforgettable moments for our brides!

5. Fine-tune your wedding dress collections to better serve the needs and preferences of a wider demographic of brides by actively listening to insightful and actionable customer feedback.

6. Streamline your business by investing in a fully digital workflow, refining staff onboarding, and investing in your team’s personal development.

7. Foster a good work culture by investing in development that grows your staff’s capabilities and creates a supportive environment.

8. Capitalise on market gaps to offer more affordable options that cater to the needs of your target audience.

9. Take risks and form strong connections with like-minded business owners. Information download is invaluable.

10. Be bold, be brave and remember that our platforms provide a voice and a community for today’s bride.

Second Opinion

For Sue Lovell, the next big buying event will be Harrogate in September, her favourite event and one which she has attended for so many years now, it feels like home. She makes a weekend of it, and tries to catch the last of the summer sun as well as enjoy everything Happy H has to offer

Actually, I really enjoy the London event at Excel, kicking off buying season. There wasn’t any sun to catch this year, but I stayed at The Sunbourn London, and caught up with friends and acquaintances. It is such an excellent location and always such a lovely atmosphere.

Well, usually it is. This year I shamefully brought down the entire vibe, as I managed to behave dreadfully to a fellow retailer. It was far too early for alcohol to be blamed so I can only blame the altitude as we were on the fourth floor, but I was consumed by a fit of the giggles, the likes of which still makes me blush all these months later.

At completely the wrong moment, witnessing something painful and potentially dangerous, I burst into inappropriate and excruciatingly embarrassing laughter. And not only that, it was so infectious that I took down another innocent bystander, Fiona, who as it turns out is also afflicted by this terrible and strange condition.

No laughing matter

I am thinking of starting a charity to find a cure. Once I started, I couldn’t stop, and Fiona and I formed an

awkward tag team of chortling. The only way to deal with this dreadful outburst was to take myself away from polite society for a while, and walk the bridal exhibition halls alone until I could pull myself together. I laughed so much that I cried, and looked like I was distraught; it was as acceptable as laughing whilst in the front row of a funeral.

I did try to apologise, but every time I tried, the laughter bubbled over and I made things worse.  So a huge and heartfelt public apologies via the pages of Wedding Trader, to the lovely Leeanne.

It wasn’t funny, I don’t know why I was laughing and I am very ashamed of myself, and will take her advice and not apply to work at the Samaritans or in any of the other Emergency Services. I will seek out the help of a support group, and I will do better.

Getting a focus

Whilst I was wandering lonely as a cloud around the halls, in my self-imposed exile, I was forced to concentrate on what I had come to London to do... to see what was new, what was on offer, and to look at new labels and products that may benefit my customers.

I intended to take my own advice and to think seriously about what styles I actually needed to find, and what was

Sue Lovell Owner of Susan Nicholas Opulent Bridal, Cambridgeshire

missing from my current collection, and to only buy what I really, truly needed.

I was sitting with another Leanne, one who I had not yet offended, who was considering taking on a new label, so together we watched the Morilee catwalk and I think that her excitement and the fact that the collection was superb meant I yet again completely ignored my own words of wisdom, and placed my ridiculously large order.

I am pleased to say though, that I have seen the social media posts and I am certain that my catwalk comrade will be thanking me the next time we meet, as she is now a stockist too, and looks to be killing it already.

Considered decision

It is a huge undertaking to bring a new label or product on board. It is never a small financial outlay in bridal, and nothing is guaranteed to bring in more sales. It is a case of trusting your instincts, knowing your own customer, and also listening to others to get their recommendations. Often, you don’t get a true sense of success or disappointment for a couple of seasons; sometimes it isn’t the products that don’t necessarily work for you, it’s the people behind the brand.

A brilliant sales person at the show can turn your head, but a mardy greeting when you call the company, or a surly voice on customer services can really turn you off. Personally, I wouldn’t go into a shop and spend my hard-earned money with a miserable and unhelpful person behind the counter, but sometimes I am left wondering why I should accept this from a supplier.

Thankfully the majority of my suppliers are wonderful and a cheery “hello” when I call is all I require. Throw in a thoughtful “how are you”, and I am all yours.

I am very easily pleased, but give me a monotone announcement and a curt connection as I am transferred to another line and I start to wonder what I am doing here!

New finds

Whilst in London I stumbled onto the Secret Weapons/ Patricia Eve stand. I had seen a few recommendations on the BrideCo forum from other stores who had become stockists, and I had earlier in the day shared a pizza with someone who was singing their praises, so I thought I would have a look.

Within moments of arriving, I was in deep conversation with Jerry, discussing the merits of butt lift briefs and stick on boobs. He was very informative, engaging and thorough, even though it was a busy stand, he took the time to explain the different ways each product enhanced, flattened, lifted and hid, or accentuated various body parts, and the effect created when under a dress. I placed my order, and was not only impressed with how quickly I received it, but also the quality of the product, packaging and the promotional material.

I know I am not about to become a millionaire by selling pants and boob tape, but I can see the potential for selling more gowns when brides can see the difference good pants can make, and also the potential for add-on sales at the point of alterations. It isn’t always about the profit margin of a product, but the potential to increase sales by utilising a product to the benefit of another.

As Tuesday drew to a close, and Excel started to wind down, I was eventually allowed back to sit with my travel companions, as they chose their dresses from Rachel Allan. I wish I could take them on as a new label, but sadly I would be stepping on to the toes of my friends and competitors who had just signed up to be stockists, and as I was already on shaky grounds with Leeanne, I sat on my hands, and quietly helped choose the most gorgeous gowns.

Once again, it was not only the product that was so appealing, but the people behind it, too.

I fell in love with Rachel Allan gowns at the catwalk at Harrogate last year; the Swan Lake theme and the phenomenal black show-stopping gown was so memorable, and a real highlight of the entire show for me. People still talk about it.

I don’t always remember who I have seen and where, as usually I am talking too much, but the Rachel Allan catwalk was breathtaking and stuck in my mind. So it was wonderful to talk to people behind the show, and to see how passionate and dedicated they are to the brand.

I know my friends will have huge success with them, and as sad as I am to be unable to have them for myself, I am so excited to see how well they will do, and it was a really pleasure to be able to sit in and help spend someone else’s money.

In my opinion, suppliers are like lovers – some are one-time-only acquaintances –nice while it lasted, or perhaps deeply regrettable hook ups. Some can change your course completely, putting a spring in your step and creating an unbreakable bond that stays firm until someone new comes along and offers you something a bit more exciting, and some are so brilliant you just have to tell everyone and even consider sharing.

But when considering taking on a new supplier, do your research, ask around, see how they treat others. But most importantly of all, ask yourself are they going to bring you in more sales and be a benefit to your customers.

Like pants, we need to find a good fit, and although I don’t expect flowers or a brass band when I place an order,  a smile and a bit of pleasantries never go amiss.

That is why I love Elizabeth Dickens Veils, not only brilliant veils made in the Cambridgeshire fens, but they always come with a bit of banter and an understanding that sometimes someone may have forgotten to place an order, and without any judgement, Alan jumps in to save the day!

“It is a huge undertaking to bring a new label or product on board. It is never a small financial outlay in bridal, and nothing is guaranteed to bring in more sales.”

A LETTER FROM AMERICA

The news from the States that has us all wondering and worrying about, and that should at least be on the ‘radar’ of UK boutique owners, is the mid-April announcement that David’s Bridal, Inc. has cut its workforce by upwards of 75%, followed by a notice two days later of a filing for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. Peter Grimes reports on reactions from the industry

This will undoubtedly impact on brides in the UK as filings have also been made for David ’s Bridal’s Canadian and UK divisions. In the US, the company operates some 300+ stores, which it claims accounts for almost a third of all bridal sales in the country.

David ’s Bridal previously filed for Chapter 11 protection in 2018 as it then struggled with an immense debt load, emerging a year later with a restructuring plan. This current filing, according to James Marcum, CEO, was taken partially in an effort to restructure its business for a possible sale.

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

“Our business continues to be challenged by the postCOVID environment and uncertain economic conditions,” said Marcum in an accompanying announcement, “leading us to take this step to identify a buyer who can continue to operate our business going forward.”

Other factors reportedly include competition from online retailers, primarily in the prom and bridesmaids sectors; a shift by its core budget customers to more casual wedding attire, and the costs and pressures of a staggering debt load.

“An increasing number of brides are opting for less traditional wedding attire, including thrift wedding dresses,” David’s Bridal said in a bankruptcy filing. “These shifting consumer preferences have significantly exacerbated the company’s financial circumstances.”

Though David’s Bridal claimed in that announcement that its stores remain open, it did caution that if a buyer is not found, it will be forced to liquidate all stores.

In the short term, the layoff of 9,236 employees of the company’s total US workforce of approximately 11,000 will make its understaffing exponentially worse, threatening to further erode fragile customer service and selling departments. A drastic step that bridal industry and retail consultants suggest is an indication that store closings have to be an integral part of its plan to attract a potential buyer.

The unanswered question left hanging is this: Who, in this lending environment with other large scale retail operations in financial trouble and in the midst of restructuring, would be interested in acquiring even a scaled back David’s Bridal?

How the news was greeted

Reaction to this news in the industry has been mixed, going from muted celebrations to concerns about the impact on independent boutiques of David’s store closings, and a corresponding ‘dump’ at fire-sale prices of the estimated 150,000-300,000 gowns currently hanging in its stores.

“Buckle up,” one East Coast boutique wrote confidentially. “This is going to be much worse than Alfred Angelo’s abruptly closing, and will have much more of an impact than David’s routine $99 dress sale. Could be a quarter of that on current merchandise instead of old stock!” (Many well remember Alfred Angelo abruptly filing chapter 7 bankruptcy in 2017, closing 60 company stores and leaving its estimated 1,400 wholesale accounts to pickup the pieces with angry and distraught brides.)

Another comment echoed by others was “Hooray… glad to see they’re finally going out. It might be short term pain until the industry recovers, but long term this is good news”.

Boutiques are not the only segment watching the news. Because of its size, David’s bankruptcy/closure will be felt throughout the supply chain. Manufacturers/ distributors have already reached out to their factories to ensure they are in sound financial health and capable of fulfilling orders… especially those factories known for producing David’s Bridal goods.

The positives that will result

A sizable number of stylists and seamstresses nationwide are now out of work and quite probably want to stay in the industry. Alhough a David’s retail stylist may not have been trained in the selling style of your boutique, they do have indispensable product knowledge. And a seamstress capable of doing the delicate work of alterations would be an asset to any bridal boutique, either as part of an in-store department or as a source for alteration referrals.

Regardless of what you think or anticipate about a possible outcome and its impact, and regardless of your price point or the demographics of your brides, one outcome seems very clear: a David’s sale and/or liquidation will impact you and your boutique as these headlines will unnerve your brides.

So… be prepared to respond to her extra stress or ‘random’ questions by emphasising your core strengths: your history, stability, reputation and commitment as an independent, locally-owned boutique.

“Reaction to this news has been mixed, going from muted celebrations to concerns about the impact of fire-sale prices of the estimated 150,000-300,000 gowns currently hanging in David’s Bridal stores.”

THE PERFECT DUO

And that’s not just the two labels in the portfolio, but the twosome behind them

ALAN HANNAH ALL ABOUT

How many pieces are there in each collection?

We do 30 new styles for each label per year.

Tell us about the key design features for 2024

Alan Hannah has a modern classic identity, and this year Marguerite has used tailored geometric design features with collars and twists and asymmetric necklines. Our unique method of layering gives the dresses lots of structure while keeping them light and easy to wear.

MiaMia, meanwhile, has a more fluid and boho vibe, and the separates have an amazing array of bodices and skirts which are interchangeable and give the retailer a way to allow each bride to customise her special look.

What fabrics has Marguerite picked for the new season?

For Alan Hannah we have different grades of fine mikado and duchesse satin, and for a softer look we also have chiffon, organza and tulle. MiaMia has lots of soft satins and more beaded and embellished elements.

What about those embellishments?

Alan Hannah has minimal embellishment and is all about the silhouette. We have our own in-house beaders who add subtle detailing and highlights.

There is more beading on the MiaMia gowns; typically, pearls and crystals are used to create more complex designs on trains and bodices.

Stockists– where are they?

Both our labels have around 25 stockists in the UK. For Alan Hannah, we have many stockists in Japan, and also Canada, Dubai and Italy.

Do you grant exclusivity?

Yes, we do give exclusivity for both labels, and this is usually worked out in consultation with each stockist and the demographics of the particular area they are located in. Exclusivity works really well for our retailers because it offers a strong selling point.

Unquestionably one of the UK’s most loved designer houses, their labels –Alan Hannah and MiaMia – consistently produce winning looks. Here’s the low-down on the 2024 collections – we asked the questions a retailer would pose...

Where is each range is made?

Alan Hannah is made here in London, in our own work rooms and MiaMia is designed and constructed here in London but it is made abroad.

Once an order is placed, what sort of delivery times should one expect?

For Alan Hannah, time from order to delivery is about

six weeks, but we can also make rush orders sooner if necessary – we have been known to drop everything and deliver an order within a week! With MiaMia the delivery time is around 12 weeks.

How many collections do you produce each year? Recently, we have been making a spring and autumn collection, but this is always under review.

How do you promote Alan Hannah and MiaMia?

designer days.

Best

ATELIER 2023 COLLECTION

info@colbyjohnbridal.com

www.colbyjohnbridal.com

VIEWPOINT

We are in a perfect storm of unpleasant realities, including Brexit, post-covid patterns of shopping and the inexorable decline in the numbers of weddings. In 1972 there were 480,000 weddings whereas in 2019 there were 253,000. The market is, as always, oversupplied, and it seems sensible that the number of trade shows should be kept at a minimum when all these factors are considered. Otherwise, numbers of visitors to individual shows will continue to dwindle and there will be no real centre of gravity for the trade to coalesce around.

White Gallery was an amazing show when it was launched and gave designers a real stage on which to shine. It was a wonderful celebration of mainly British creativity and was a contrast to Harrogate, which was always the main event for the more commercial end of the industry.

These two shows worked well together because there wasn’t an overlap. Each show catered for a different constituency, and both did well. Gradually, two things happened. Manufacturers wanted a piece of the White Gallery action and started showing in adjacent venues, which began to muddy the waters. Secondly, UK designers gradually stopped showing as they probably found it cheaper to show in their own premises at the same time as the show.

Eventually, more obscure overseas labels seemed to take most of the floorspace along with the incorporation of London Bridal Week into the event.

It seems that matters have come to a head and it is unrealistic to expect the two-show model will continue. Ocean Media always put on a well organised and well publicised event but they cannot control the market forces that are at work, and it’s time to have a real debate about what the industry wants and needs. I’m sure they would be very happy to hear what exhibitors really want.

But, hold on, do exhibitors really know what they want either? I’m not sure. They definitely want a well-attended

show that gives a good return on investment. But what is the way forward to achieve this?

Most retailers seem to prefer the Harrogate option and it also seems that there is more opportunity for networking, and a more relaxed timetable to buy there because most visitors stay for three days and enjoy the ambience of the town and its amenities.

So, does London offer a better location for overseas buyers? Yes, but unfortunately, we have to accept that Barcelona is the main focus for these buyers and while we should still try to attract them, we have to face the fact that we must secure a healthy well-attended show in the UK as our priority for UK buyers. If export orders are your main focus then I suggest that you have to exhibit somewhere else, as well. We must create excitement and anticipation around a once-a-year event which will encourage buyers to spend and create a compelling need to attend.

The factors I mentioned at the start of this piece that are shrinking our market are not going to go away, so we must recognise that the industry has to become more viable and evolve and strengthen. This will ensure that we continue to be strong, resilient and fit for purpose as we go forward.

If some manufacturers and designers want to exhibit twice a year, then I’m sure that Ocean Media will accommodate them, but it might be wiser to instigate a discussion and have exhibitors, retailers and organisers all singing from the same song sheet.

Unfortunately, there is no longer a representative supplier organisation, but it is still possible to undertake a wide survey of both retailers and suppliers to understand what is needed and required.

I would suggest that a one show scenario is the correct way to proceed at this time. This may change in the future but it’s imperative that the industry does not become more atomised than it is at present and that the British bridal industry remains a recognisable entity.

The seemingly endless calendar of trade shows is weighing heavily on the industry. Suppliers are unsure of where to focus their budgets and this uncertainty, in return, affects the behaviour of the retailers on whom they ultimately depend. Here’s one view from a long-standing exhibitor

FRESH TIME TO GET

In the fast-paced world of retail, keeping up with customer expectations is key to maintaining success. And that is especially true in our industry, says Laura Daly

These days, brides need certain requirements to be met if their shopping experience is going to be deemed at least acceptable.

I think we all know by now that we bridal retailers should be continually adapting and updating our stores to meet these expectations because, if we don’t, then someone else close by

almost certainly will, and that could hugely impact on our footfall and, ultimately, our sales.

Quite how we keep reinventing ourselves however, is another matter! Undoubtably, in recent years, the importance of creating a unique and memorable in-store experience for customers has been paramount, and we all know just how many bridesto-be are looking for an experience that goes beyond simply purchasing a dress. They want to feel special, pampered and celebrated. Woe betide us if we don’t deliver!

So, how do we keep our shops and boutiques up-to-date without bankrupting ourselves? The way I see it, we have two options; we either totally refurbish and refit our shops every couple of years like the big,

corporate fashion brands do – which, let’s face it, is an expensive path to go down – or we establish our brands, our colours and our identity and work around that.

Again, there are a couple of ways to go about this; one is to engage a design and branding company to draw up a complete plan which you either execute yourself or pay them to implement – or you sit down and tackle it yourself. The DIY option takes a lot of self-discipline, because you’re probably going to want to go mad on the bits you need to rein in and then economise on the bits that need to be done properly!

Firstly, you need to be really sure of who you are and who your target bride is, and you need tounderstand her language. You may love flowers,

greenery and trees but, if your target bride is a cool metropolitan minimalist, then you need to take direction from her. Otherwise, however lovely your dresses may be, they will always fight with their surroundings. I’d concentrate on shop layout, functionality, customer flow and good lighting, spending a good chunk of the budget on classic bigticket purchases. For example, rails, wardrobes and fitting rooms that can be repainted and refaced.

Don’t scrimp on mirrors. Not only do they give the appearance of a larger area and create more light but, naturally, your customers always want to be able to see themselves –preferably from every angle. I’d advise choosing a neutral pallet which, whilst complementing your brand colours and identity, doesn’t scream a particular year or moment in history. Of course, even neutrals change with time, but you’ll get more mileage from them than from particularly fashionable colours – however lovely they are for the five minutes that they are on trend!

Consider the flooring at this point, all surfaces have their strengths and weaknesses, but ultimately need to match your ‘vibe’ and be functional and easy to keep very clean! Into this mix, I’d then add an interesting statement piece or feature unique to you and your brand. This doesn’t have to cost the earth, but it does have to make people remember you. If you position it correctly and space is a premium, this feature can double as a selfie wall or backdrop. Whatever you

create needs to be well-lit and very photogenic so that all your customers want to take pictures of it.

I’ve seen amazing feature walls, fountains, ball pits, fully-stocked bars, little tea rooms, interactive screens – the list goes on, but the secret is that they have to be a bit of you. They need to be representative of your brand and they have to grab the attention. Otherwise, don’t go there.

Once that’s all in place, add in the décor of the season with smaller throw away pieces and soft furnishings. When I say throw away, I mean fashionable chairs, coffee tables, lamps and all the little extras that make it bougie and unique. If this all sounds daunting, believe me when I say that if you make a plan to do a bit at a time, you can transform any space. I’m well known for my ninja decorating skills – you’d be amazed at what you can do over a bank holiday weekend – you just need a plan!

Guides For Brides Awards 2023

We all know and appreciate the value of proudly holding a title that tells the world how good you are. Guides for Brides Customer Service Awards has an additional benefit in that it introduces the best in a broad number of categories to others who may see the advantages of working with them. Jessica Jex, a member of the marketing team at Guides for Brides, shares the event

On 29 March, the seventh annual edition of this key initiative took place at Oxford Town Hall. Wedding businesses of all sectors and sizes came together to celebrate – from cake makers to bridal boutiques and venue groups – and 200 guests were treated to an evening of delicious food, networking and, of course, prize giving.

Nikita Thorne, Guides for Brides’ Head of Strategy and Host for the evening said: “We are honoured to be able to recognise and reward these businesses who have shown exceptional customer care throughout 2022, one of the busiest years for weddings we’ve ever seen.”

Despite the ongoing challenges faced by the industry, it is inspiring to see the dedication and hard work that each person in each business puts into supporting their couples while navigating the constantly-evolving landscape of the industry.

Who is eligible to win?

The Customer Service Awards are open to all businesses that are members of Guides for Brides. They are free to enter and businesses are shortlisted based on the reviews that have been left for them on the platform during 2022.

The winners are selected by an independent panel of industry experts who score each business on both the quality and quantity of reviews from couples throughout the year. The size of the business and the number of weddings that they have

undertaken are considered to give small businesses the same chance as larger companies. The Guides for Brides team has no involvement in the selection process of the winners and the judges complete the process independently.

This year’s judges

• Jonny Bann: Head of Sales at Various Eateries PLC

• Nina Beer: Founder of Occasion Queens

• Siobhan Craven-Robins: Siobhan Craven-Robins Weddings and National Association of Wedding Professionals

• Michelle Miles: Founder of the Sustainable Wedding Alliance and Owner of Fusion Events and Weddings

• Cath Poucher: Sales, Events and Marketing Manager at Oxford Town Hall, the beautiful host venue of this year’s awards ceremony

• LaToya Patel: CEO and Co-Founder of SW Events as well as the Co-Owner of The Asian Wedding Club

• Becca Poutney: Speaker, Blogger, Marketing Expert and host of podcast, Wedding Pros Who Are Ready To Grow

• Rebecca Waldron: Owner of White Rose Ceremonies and a past winner

• James Walton: Director at THAT Event Company who has years of experience in audio, lighting and the production of weddings and events

Each year, the Guides for Brides Customer Service Awards relies on the incredible support of key partners to make the event happen. The beautiful Oxford Town Hall was this year’s host venue; THAT Event Company supplied lighting and AV for the evening’s event while Elegant Cuisine provided a wonderful three-course meal for the finalists to enjoy.

Throughout the evening Sam and Steve Photography took the pictures, Ear Candy Oxford provided live music, Alan Simpson was on hand to draw caricatures and Lucca Studios performed amazing candle scribing so everyone had a personalised memento to take home! There was also entertainment from Richard Parsons who performed close-up magic. Prior to the event, Lauren Cohen MUA helped some of the Guides for Brides team to look their best for the awards ceremony.

Alison Hargreaves, Founder and Director of Guides for Brides summed up the evening saying: “Customer service is something that will always be highly regarded by wedding clients no matter if they are the couple, their family or wedding guests. It is for that reason we feel it is important to highlight the businesses that are doing an exceptional job. There was a fantastic atmosphere at the event and many attendees commented on the fabulous spirit of celebration shared by all who attended”.

The winner of the bridalwear retailer category was Posy & Pearl Bridal Boutique, Cirencester, whose Donna Mccahill collected the trophy. One bride commented: “ to say the experience was magical would be an understatement”

Charitable focus

As a company that celebrates love, Guides for Brides is proud to continue to support VOW for Girls, a growing global movement that partners with wedding professionals, couples and individuals to end the international child marriage crisis.

VOW for Girls has a focus on reaching girls most at risk of becoming child brides, which happens to a staggering 12 million girls each year. This is a global problem that spans cultures, religions and countries.

The Customer Service Awards raised awareness and over £1,200 for this excellent charity from donations and a raffle on the night. This sum is enough to cover the cost for eight girls to attend school for one year including all the supplies they will need and transportation.

MEET THE 2023 WINNERS

Celebrants Pure Silk Ceremonies

Entertainment AJ Pyrotechnics

Boutique Wedding Venue Broadoaks Boutique Country

Hotel

Toastmasters Toastmaster Dan

City Wedding Venue Linden House

Stationery On Cloud Nine

Florist Ann Laing Flowers

Small Hotel The Casa Hotel

Venue Decor & Finishing Touches Make it Special Events

Transport Fiat 500 Hire

Country Wedding Venue Bardney Hall

Mother of the Bride Charisma of Fawley

Stately Homes, Castles & Mansions Grittleton House

Videography Gaetano Di Giacomo Media Production

Jewellers Lover’s Rock

Manor Wedding Venue Southdowns Manor

Cakes & Sweet Treats Dolce Lusso Cakes

Marquee Wedding Venue  The Stables Wedding Farm

Planners Dale Alexander Events

Historic Wedding Venue Rufford Mill

Music Boujee Music

Unique Wedding Venue The Matara Centre

Beauty, Hair & Makeup  Makeup by Lorna

Catering  Oxford Fine Dining

Waterside & Coastal  Talhenbont Hall

Discos & DJs The Wedding DJs

Menswear Luciano’s Suits

Photography The Jasmine Cottage Studio

Pubs & Inns  The Crown & Thistle

Honeymoons Tredwell Travel

Barn Wedding Venue  York Barn at Villa Farm

Bridalwear retailer Posy & Pearl Bridal Boutique

Large Wedding Venue Best Western Plus Manor Hotel Meriden

Marquee & Tipi Hire Forest Edge Tipis

Weddings Abroad Exclusive Yacht Weddings Cyprus

HIGHLY COMMENDED BUSINESSES 2023

Celebrants Beth Whaley Celebrant & Ceremonies

Transport The Cotswold Campervan Company

Stately Homes, Castles & Mansions  Thicket Priory

Jewellers Rosalyn’s Emporium

Marquee Wedding Venue Deene Park Estate

Historic Wedding Venue Ashridge House

Caterers Lemon Zest Cuisine

Photographers Laura Shaw Photography

Barn Wedding Venue The Kingscote Barn

Bridalwear retailer Nicole Maes Bridal Ltd

More information about the winners and highly commended businesses can be found at https:// guidesforbrides.co.uk/wedding-ideas/customer-serviceawards-winners-2023

BRIDAL WEEK LONDON 2023

The London Show in March, which again incorporated White Gallery, raised many questions – from exhibitors and visitors alike – as to

time for a change in the long-standing formulation

We asked organisers Ocean Media for information regarding their strategy that will take the UK’s key bridal events –Harrogate and London – to a new level, but as they are in the discussion/planning stages the company would not issue detail. They did, however, provide the following press release as an official summary of the March show. These are their words:

“From 19-21 March, brands and buyers were reunited in the UK’s fashion capital as Bridal Week London and White Gallery opened its doors once more. Across

three days, the industry came together for a true celebration of bridal fashion, presenting a host of leading lines in the bridal sector and exciting features. From show-stopping live fashion shows to insightful and impactful seminars hosted by our industry experts, visitors got a glimpse into the hottest upcoming trends and took home useful business advice, all whilst buying new collections for their boutiques.

Buying

“Thousands of buyers travelled to London to be amongst the first to view the latest collections from

whether it was

bridalwear, accessories and occasionwear brands from all over the world at Bridal Week London. Visitors were spoiled for choice with so much to discover: over 350 collections adorned mannequins, and our innovative and inspirational stands truly brought the venue to life across the three days. Luxury buying event White Gallery promoted a bespoke buying experience, offering cutting-edge collections from some of the most well-established designer labels from across the globe, as well as dress debuts from some newer names on the scene.

The Fashion Shows

“The multi-cultural and diverse capital has long been celebrated for being a hub for the world’s most searing fashion talents, and a source of inspiration for up-andcoming designers. London’s reputation as a distinctive fashion centre means it was only right that visitors were able to sit alongside the runway and get up close and personal to the latest designs from world-renowned brands and designers at the Fashion Shows.

“Maggie Sottero Designs hosted private Fashion Shows, allowing buyers to get a better look at this season’s gowns and watch the fabrics move on the

models. The Bridal Week London preview shows cemented their position as a top hit with visitors as nine brands hit the catwalk, including Calla Blanche, Colby John, Dando London, Ellis Bridals, Evie Young Bridal, Jeune Bridal, Kelsey Rose, L’amour by Calla Blanche, La Perle, Madi Lane Bridal, Rachel Allan Bridal and The Perfect Bridal Collection by Kay Heeley.

“This year, White Gallery hosted its own dedicated luxury runway, where buyers could discover the fabrics, craftsmanship and expertise that goes into each and every creation. White Gallery’s runways were a true fashion hotspot for bridal professionals, with designers, stockists, press, editors and influencers attending from all around the world. This year, we featured the finest selection of UK and international labels, including 29 Atelier, Freda Bennet, Josephine Scott, Lalunah Bride, Louise Bentley, Maria Pia, Michèle Weiten, Natalya James and Seren Moda. Special

thanks to MG Hair & Makeup, The Perfect Bridal Company for providing veils and shoes, Jupon Limited for providing petticoats, Poirier for providing headdresses and Propress Steamers for steaming all runway dresses. We would like to extend our thanks to Vicky and the SKIN London team for putting on another fabulous catwalk.

Bridal Retail Success Academy

“This year, we welcomed back the Bridal Retail Success Academy to host both seminar sessions and one-to-one tailored appointments. Free to attend and open to all visitors, these educational sessions covered a range of topics from sales and finance, to marketing and social media to help visitors tackle the issues that mattered to them the most. Speakers included Maria MusgroveWethey, Christine Skilton, Megan Garmers and Kelly Mortimer, who were a great success and enabled visitors

to get free actionable take-aways to implement in their bridal businesses. Some of the best and brightest in the business, including Abi Neill, Diana McMann, Grace Bunk, Kelly Mortimer, Megan Garmers and Get Savvy offered 1-2-1 tailored advice on taking your business to the next level. We would like to thank all of our experts for spending three days at Bridal Week London and for sharing their wealth of knowledge and experience with our visitors.

“White Gallery also ran a luxury panel, featuring Jemma Palmer (Halo & Wren), Ella-Louise Gaskell (P.S Bridal) and Ellie Sanderson (Ellie Sanderson Luxury Bridal), to aid high-end bridal businesses in creating and elevating the luxury buying experience. We would like to extend our thanks to our lovely line-up for being an integral part of our panel and a guiding light for our visitors.”

EXHIBITOR COMMENT

“I thought the show looked lovely but it was too quiet, the footfall was not good enough.”

......................................................

“No one is ever happy! Ocean Media worked really hard and put on a good show. I’m confident they will react accordingly and improve where they need to – it’s important that they listen to everyone’s experiences.”

RETAILER COMMENT

“Shop owners are buying in a new way today. They see collections online, they have a rep come out with collections and then, aside from Harrogate in September, which is always a great show, they are generally going to Europe or the USA in search of something different.“

TIME OUT

Away from the madding crowds with time to really consider what to buy

AGENDA

After surviving Covid, many of us bridal professionals thought we were in the clear and brighter days were ahead. Unfortunately, just as we were picking ourselves up and dusting ourselves down, we were hit with the cost of living crisis and the bank of England very helpfully (not) announced that we were entering a recession that would last until October 2023.

They have since back-tracked on this but in terms of customer confidence the damage had already been done. Add to this the fact that since Covid, brides seem to have higher expectations and lower budgets than ever before. It’s a whole new dawn in the wedding world with many of us still trying to navigate the new ‘normal ’ and all the challenges we face.

It doesn’t seem like two minutes since we spent a fortune in September at Harrogate; the new stock had barely hit the rails when the invites for this year’s buying events start flooding in – London, Barcelona, Germany, as well as the private events organised by our suppliers.

This season we decided to step back, take a breath and monitor sales performance of our existing stock before dashing off to stalk the halls buying even more.

The one exception to this has been a trip to our fabulous supplier Allure Bridals who put on an amazing event in Manchester. We had a relaxed appointment in their beautiful showroom, sipped some (extremely strong) cocktails and ordered our collection. We were given plenty of time to decide on colours, sizes, etc, allowing us to choose dresses we are super confident our brides are going to love. We then had a fabulous evening at Albert Schloss and an overnight stay courtesy of our hosts, making us feel looked after and valued.

I think maybe retailers, like our brides, have also changed. For us, the private buying trips definitely seem to bring a greater return on investment than a mad dash trying to buy several collections at once. It can be overwhelming, especially when followed by regret when you realise you have accidentally ordered too many of a size/colour/style!

I don’t think the big shows still have a place, and we have benefitted massively from the seminars we have attended. Harrogate in particular will always be a favourite, but for us one large show a year is enough and we are much happier buying any additional stock from suppliers’ private events.”

Emma Hartley and her team could not be more delighted with the time they spent with a favourite label, Allure Bridals, at a private show in Manchester

ALLURE

A collection that lives up to its name. Expect superb styling and an incredible fit

THE ALLURE PORTFOLIO

This hugely popular family-owned and run design house boasts six labels, each with it’s own, distinct personality. Get to know them:

Allure Bridals is the flagship brand. Think clean lines, vintage laces and great corsetry.

Allure Couture spells glamour and a red carpet appeal.

Allure Romance This bride wants a budget-right dress that will let her dance the night away.

Madison James is for the free-thinking bride with her finger on the pulse of social media and style.

Wilderly is a wild child, foot-loose and spiritfree, relaxed, full of movement, comfort-focused, approachable.

Abella This bride is chic and savvy and knows that style needs not cost the earth.

ABELLA

Sculpted silhouettes and minimalist detailing. It’s a look of today

MADISON JAMES

Cool, contemporary and first choice for the young, adventurous bride

VIVA ESPANHA PETA DOES BARCELONA

The photos sent home to the family from Barcelona were snapped in between running to the lavish catwalk shows and lunch. Yes, we are in Spain and lunch, however snatched, is always on the agenda

Ilove flying into Barcelona to start the catwalk fest, and meeting fellow press is always a pleasure, although on day four my back may tell you a different story. Must remember next year to do some core exercises to build up stomach strength. This year I saw plenty of retailers that I knew, too – The Wedding Club, Browns Brides, Mirror Mirror, Miss Bush, Abigail’s Collection, Morgan Davies and lots I recognised but don’t know by name. SOZ! It was nice to see so many happy faces.

So, apart from saying that the organisation was fantastic, the evening events beautiful and the show staging spectacular, I have to add a huge WOW about the canapes at Rosa Clara!

I thought that I’d just briefly make a

few choice comments and get straight into images – as they say, a picture paints a thousand words (do people still say that?). Let’s just crack on then and go for trends.

Firstly, the catwalk shows had models with more natural make up and clean hair, which was great to see: OTT hair and make up are a distraction when you really just want to focus on the dresses, which is, after all, why you are there!

It was great to see fewer accessories this time round, but the ones used were perfectly placed: a big shout out to Halo & Co who graced the catwalk, flying the flag for the UK. And I rediscovered Eli Peacock, another headband designer to look out for. Veils were big and back.

TOP TRENDS

Veils

Showing everyone who the bride is. According to social media there is a trend for MOGs to wear white dresses/bridal dresses to weddings (“grow up” is the comment that springs to mind!). On Barcelona’s catwalk, veils were out in force… so romantic.

Big

More and more grand dresses – there will be plenty of sweeping down the aisles in 2024. I liked how fresh Pronovias and Marylise interpretations looked, chic and understatedly elegant. And there were plenty of really huge dresses from The Atelier run by Prof Jimmy Choo! And Julia Kontogruni.

Colour

Not just to keep you warm, but to add style and impact; some I can see working for Register Office weddings. Carlo Pignatelli’s tailoring was superb, whereas the Jesus Peiro coat would be perfect over most wedding dresses. Coat on in Church and off to show the slinky dress underneath for dancing the night away.

AGNIESZKA SWIATLY

THE ATELIER

Beading, shine, sparkle

Sparkle, whether lurex, beading, satin or sequins, there will be a lot of happy shiny people everywhere. Big applause goes to Modeca, and a new designer for me, Pedro Palmas.

Lace

Used by everyone. Romantic dresses and sassy dresses, lace is still a firm favourite, even on the boys. Key lace users were Demetrios and Ines di Santo.

Strapless

Can be boring but at BBFW we saw more structure in corset tops, allowing fabric to almost free fall like at Marylise and Sophie et Viola, a modern take on tradition.

PEDRO PALMAS

SOPHIE ET VOILA

YOLANCRIS

THE ATELIER

MODECA

DEMETRIOS

INES DI SANTO

INES DI SANTO

Trousers

Pronovias created a very slinky lace jumpsuit (a touch of an eyebrow raiser) but for me Camilla Elena’s Helena Collection had that sharp jacket and slim trouser look that is very modern.

Clean modern lines

Slim fitting and not too many extra bits added, perfect dresses for the bride who doesn’t want to appear to be trying too hard! Kudos to Jesus Peiro (happy 35 years of designing to them) and Isabel Sanchis.

Short

From just above the ankle to just below the bottom, legs were on show with at least one number from most of the designers. Worn with a cape, an oversize hat and definitely with a veil, they are real statement makers.

YOLANCRIS

ROSA CLARA

ISABEL SANCHIS YOLANCRIS

PRONOVIAS

CAMILLA ELENA

ISABEL SANCHIS_

JESUS PEIRO

ELIE SAAB

Two pieces

Cymbeline flashed a little flesh, Rosa Clara quite a lot, and it was great to see something a little different and less traditional. However, I can see eyes rolling when brides show family members their dream dress, but for hot weddings abroad, look no further for inspo.

Capes

Swishing down the runway, whether attached or separate, the cape was everywhere, perfect for the non-veil bride.

Shoulder Sleeves

The new areas of interest and great to see so much variety. Joli Poli had the ultimate in drama for the “when does a sleeve become cape?” story, and Isabel Sanchis showed the biggest one shoulder dress, that actually worked for me, (one for the window as I’m not sure how you’d hang it up!).

YOLANCRIS

JOLI POLI

YOLANCRIS

ROSA CLARA

MARCO & MARIA

YOLANCRIS

ISABEL SANCHIS

Coats

Coats. Not just to keep you warm, but to add style and impact; some I can see working for Register Office weddings. Carlo Pignatelli’s tailoring was superb, whereas the Jesus Peiro coat would be perfect over most wedding dresses. Coat on in Church and off to show the slinky dress underneath for dancing the night away.

3-D Flowers

Not just for hair, there seemed to be a bit of a trend for attached blooms. Madeline Collection by Madeline Gardner, looked stunning with a scattering of flowers all over the dresses, and YolanCris went large on the hip with a single camellia.

Curve

Loved all the collections that showed that fashion can be shown beautifully on women over a size 12. It’s taken a long time but great to see.

MIREIA BALAGUER

JESUS PEIRO

MADELINE

YOLANCRIS

WONA CONCEPT

THE NUMBERS ARE UP

When European Bridal Week (1-3 April) closed its very glamorous doors in the halls of the Messe Essen complex near Dusseldorf, show organisers United Fairs had much to celebrate

The largest bridal industry trade event of the year, where 500 design-driven collections met with the event’s record number of retailers from no fewer than 38 countries, set new standards and saw renewed enthusiasm among those involved, after two years of pandemic and postpandemic quiet.

At the first event, which brought Interbride into the

European Bridal Week equation, new trends were set at this key show, which was deliberately early in the season to allow for deliveries into retailers at the time they are at their busiest. Those trends certainly will hit the headlines and be the focus of heavyweight social media activity in the months ahead.

The daily catwalk performances attracted maximum capacity audiences keen to view the newest trends in

action. Top international design houses showed their new ranges on the European Bridal Week stage –introducing elaborate details such as over-sized bow features, separates stories, modern-day detachables and a whole new approach to destination weddings with bohemian influences.

Another key exhibition feature, the Instagram Candy

Bar, where industry experts shared their knowledge of social media, proved to be a big attraction.

Plans are already in place for the 2024 show, which again will be at Messe Essen, and at the same early date. Not surprisingly, bookings have already been confirmed, just one week after the success of this year’s event.

EXHIBITOR COMMENT

“We had a great show and our valued partners visited and placed their next stock order. We also met many new customers from different countries who are now part of our network, which is an important part of exhibiting.”

Sonja Jonkers, Sales Manager Europe Casablanca Bridal

“First of all, huge thanks for the outstanding organisation of this show. Even though stores ordered less bridal in comparison to the previous year due to the current market situation, we were able to increase the number of orders for our mother of the bride portfolio and the mix-and-match collection, as well. We were therefore able to match the previous year’s figures for the first time.

“A great highlight for us was showcasing our collections on the catwalk – our new IamYours label, in particular, was very well received and enthusiastically applauded by the visitors. It was a fantastic show!”

Zoran Banozic Managing Director, Weise

“We had a busy three days, with a lot of fun, laughter and good orders from our loyal LILLY network of stockists, and new clients have been welcomed into our LILLY family. We look forward to a fantastic 2024 bridal season, and to Essen again next year.”

Anne Kathrine Rantzau Owner, LILLY

“European Bridal Week offers an impressive assortment of vendors and brands that the entire northern European bridal market can really get behind to assess their product and buying needs, without having to go to any other European fair. The organisers have created an event that showcases the best of the best in a practical and accessible format for both exhibitors and attendees alike – real brands that service the core of the bridal market, not just aspirational brands that have limited appeal. EBW is truly a world-class event, especially now with the inclusion of Interbride, servicing northern Europe, Scandinavia and southern European markets such as France, and also the UK.

Andrew Georgiou, Head of Marketing and Product Development, Très Chic Bridalwear.

JUSTIN ALEXANDER SIGNATURE

The finished look is wonderfully elegant, introducing a mix of fabrics

JUSTIN WARSHAW IN CONVERSATION WITH

WT Did you learn anything new from planning your own nuptials?

JW I am still not over the wedding bliss – it makes my work in the bridal industry that much more exciting. My wife and I were definitely at an advantage while planning our nuptials; having seen so many of our brides go through this process was a learning experience. At the same time, seeing and doing are very different practices. Planning a wedding for myself made me appreciate the detail that goes into it; it made me see these dresses in a different light. My views on wedding dresses are much more personal now; I think that will be evident in my design process too, from now on.

WT Are you finding that many brides today are looking for more than one dress for their special day, and are they opting for two gowns or looking for detachables to change a look?

JW Bridal fashion is evolving exponentially, and brides are evolving with it. They want to see something new, something ‘more’. Part of that involves the desire to make their special day that more remarkable and adding a second look or appearance helps. It could be for fashion or comfort, styling or partying, but the reality is that we see an increased demand for the 2-in-1 styles. Brides are loving the detachable sleeve that allows them to look stylish in photos and confident in the reception, or the mini dress and detachable skirt that allows them to be a princess and party girl on the same night.

WT Are separates a real trend? How do you advise retailers to buy into mix and match brands to ensure success?

JW Separates are an interesting and growing trend; I think it goes hand in hand with the ‘informal’ dress trend that started peaking post-COVID. Both have that effortless, easy-going feel to them – one could say that they’re the ‘ready-to-wear’ of wedding dresses.

Advice to retailers? Buy for quality, balance different styles, fabrics, silhouettes and necklines, and choose something for each bride’s size and personality.

WT What are the most in-demand fabrics and colours today? How early in the design process do you start sourcing fabrics and embellishments and from where?

JW Right now, it is crepe and Mikado – both are seen in dresses that make silhouette their ‘wow’ element, rather than embroidery and lace. These minimalist fabrics present a blank canvas – an opportunity to create a personal masterpiece.

As for colours, ivory represent the true timelessness of bridal fashion; today is not rare to see it paired with nude details and illusion tulles, or in combination with sand.

Sourcing happens year round. We have a dedicated team looking all around the world for trends, new fabrics, new options, new applications. Europe often inspires us for fabrics, and we brainstorm with our production partners in the Far East on new ideas for applications.

An exhibitor at European Bridal Week from the start, Justin Warshaw of Justin Alexander sees working closely with his stockists as key to success. We caught up with him just before the Essen show

WT How do you best help your stockists get the collection message over to their brides?

JW As a company, we are service- and customer-oriented and that entails supporting our stores to the best of our ability. Our in-store marketing training allows us to communicate the collection and brand messages to them and consequently to brides. Online and social media support is vital.

WT What do you see as the key trends for the year ahead?

JW - Less is More: Minimalist wedding dresses where the dress is the canvas, and the bride is the master artist.

- Innovative Classics: Classic wedding dresses with exciting new lace treatments and unique surface details are sure to make a statement.

- Feminine Touches: Romantic wedding dresses that emphasize and enhance the beauty of the wearer’s silhouette.

- Radiant Craftsmanship: An impressive shimmering showcase of hand-beaded fabrics, decorative lace layers and risqué necklines.

WT Have you noticed, in these still-challenging times, a shift in emphasis on the part of brides? Are they looking to minimise their look – or maximise it – and are they more budget conscious now than, say pre-pandemic days?

JW Leading up to these post-COVID periods, everyone is more conscious, but at the same time the bridal industry is facing an unprecedented demand due to postponed weddings. One could argue that while brides may be more budget-conscious with their wedding planning, their dress will forever be the ‘main character’ during that planning. They may be stricter in choosing the dress, its accessories or a potential second look, but they still want –maybe even ‘need’– that one dress. So, in all honesty, they may be budget-conscious, but they are not necessarily budget-concerned.

WT Social media – what works best for you?

JW Social media is the fastest way for us to connect with our brides. As a brand, we have found that having a cross-media platform presence achieves that best and follows our culture as a company.

If we want to reach the most potential brides with our diverse designs and brands, we must follow through with marketing those styles on different social media platforms. Our brides are on those platforms, and therefore so are we; each of our brands is present on Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest and TikTok. On those platforms we repurpose content to fit the audience and purpose of platform. Instagram is aspirational, Facebook is informational, Pinterest is informational, and TikTok is relatable, and we make sure that this matches our content production and publication.

JUSTIN ALEXANDER Cut and curve are a priority when minimalism is the message

SINCERITY

Perfect for the bride who wants a real sense of romance in her dress

THE PORTFOLIO

Justin Alexander embodies a classic, refined and timeless feel; it’s attainable luxury at its finest.

Justin Alexander Signature redefines luxury; with its focus on opulence and drama, the collection is designed for the modern bride seeking a wedding dress that expresses her lavish and on-trend sense of style.

Adore by Justin Alexander is light, trendy and relaxed; the brand was designed for the chic, fashion-forward bride looking for an affordable and fresh look for her wedding day.

Lillian West is whimsical and adventurous; a blend of romance and elegance that, with its laid-back approach, will leave brides feeling effortlessly chic.

Sincerity is designed for the charismatic and classic bride who wants the perfect princess dress fit for a fairytale wedding; the diverse collection meets the needs of any bride seeking graceful romance.

Pretty as a picture, with soft, flowing lines that spell femininity

ADORE BY JUSTIN ALEXANDER

Contemporary cool with great detailing

LILIAN WEST

A LOVE OF BRIDAL Kolin Weaver is passionate about dressing brides beautifully

THE NAME YOU NEED TO KNOW

Kolin Weaver’s collection will create comment, and

Born and educated in Zimbabwe, Africa, Kolin Weaver had an idyllic childhood, growing up with a creative freedom inspired by the colours and textures of the nature and wildlife that formed his surroundings.

His mother, a fine concert pianist, made her own gowns for her stage appearances and, unsurprisingly, young Kolin was fascinated by her sense of style and origination, and intrigued by her manipulation of fabrics.

As a result, at an early age he developed a real passion for textiles and the creative possibilities of design. Selftaught and always taking an adventurous approach, his skills were honed over the years. He attained a degree in Art and Design and went on to work with Karlheinz Therhorst, a German-trained master pattern cutter and the owner of the company Boss Fashions.

“That is where my professional career in pattern cutting and design really took off,” he says. “I was lucky enough in that time to be mentored by an incredible man of vision who gave me the best understanding of a garment’s life and journey from start to finish. I am forever grateful to Karlheinz.”

When Kolin won the Designer of the Year title, he recognised the time as being absolutely right to set up his own brand. He went on to dress socialites, celebrities and First Ladies, and hosted runway shows across the globe, as well as collections for two of the Miss

will be top of

list.

Zimbabwe winners who moved on to take part in Miss World pageants.

Bridal, at the time, was something that entranced him and weddingwear was something he included in his portfolio.

In 2000, Kolin moved to the UK and joined a couture house where beautifully-made gowns with unique personalities were in demand by its high-profile clients. Fast getting noticed and building his own high-profile reputation, he went on be part of the widely-respected team at Amanda Wakeley, where four womenswear and two bridal collections were created each year, alongside bespoke couture pieces in the most sumptuous fabrics for celebrities and royalty.

A glorious experience, yes. Creatively rewarding, yes. But bridal and the opportunities it holds for individuality remained a first love.

No wonder, then, that Kolin has now, under his own name, opened new doors to design and self-expression, and is paving a very special path in bridal. With a London Atelier, and a fast-growing audience, this is the man to take notice of. And his work is distinctly different.

“So much in bridal is about inspiration,” he says. “I find it in all forms of life, whether I am travelling to and from work, or walking my dogs on the beach where I live on the south coast. Life and nature hold so many wonderful and incredible experiences to take in, be it the light and

‘WOW”

the

This hugely-experienced designer puts design bravado and originality up there as top priorities and is making a real impression

colour around you that change every passing hour, or the sea with its constantly-changing tides. One of my other passions is to have themed tablescapes where I can get to be creative in another form.”

There are two collections in the Kolin Weaver bridal portfolio for the season ahead. English Romance is one. “I am inspired by the quintessential English garden, full of fragrant blooms on a gorgeous summer’s day with colours and textures that never fail to disappoint. The gowns I have designed form soft lines floating gently to the floor. There are silk chiffons, organzas and beautifully beaded laces that shimmer in the sunlight.”

In his Vintage Hollywood collection there is the show of a distinct love for the iconic styling of the 1920s and 30s, with bias-cut, gentle draping that cascades to form a lavish train. “The beading and feather panels I have created sits perfectly to enhance a bride’s curves,” he says. “The feather detailing is playful yet sophisticated. I will always have gowns reminiscent of this period in my collection – I find them to be exceptionally stylish.”

Want to know more? Get in touch now and be among the first to carry the collection.

+44 (0) 7736 386890

enquiries@kolinweaver.com / www.kolinweaver.com

Instagram: @kolinweaverlondon

Style: Cathrine

Style: Elizabeth Style: Grace

Pearls are big news Softly gleaming, in shades that go from natural to the softest pastels

HEADSTART

What’s new and in demand from the headline-makers in the accessories sector? Find out here…

IVORY & CO

Statement Makers Says Ivory & Co’s Sarah: “Bridal stores and brides are loving our new capsule collection… a range of gorgeous on-trend pieces with a really competitive price tag.

“With prices rising, and being aware that some brides may be on a tight budget, we have designed a stunning selection of pieces for both brides and bridesmaids, starting at £25 retail for clips, £35 for vines and £55 for headbands. We launched the collection at Harrogate in September and it’s been a huge success with boutiques telling us their brides love the designs.

“In demand, too, are the most modern and romantic designs featuring oversized pearls, dainty handmade ceramic flowers and hand-painted enamel elements.

“And brides are loving all pearl and no sparkle pieces. Especially popular are statement clips for the back and side of a hairstyle as well as oversize statement headbands for the leading lady, and dainty boho vines for her attendants.”

Materials and colours

There’s a soft pallet of creamy pearls, and pastel shades, and Ivory & Co are also working a lot with opalescent crystal, which have a flash of subtle blue.

Key shapes “As wedding have become much less formal and couples are having fun with unique venues and unstuffy events, we see a trend for further modern and less conventional pieces,” says Sarah. Brides will always look for romantic styling but in a more contemporary way, matching striking headpieces with modern jewellery they can wear again after the wedding.  Look out for statement jewellery pieces over the coming months.

Where the collection is made The pieces are designed in Ivory & Co’s studio in the UK countryside, and produced in small batches for perfect quality in the Far East.

Contact sales@ivoryandcotiaras.co.uk www.ivoryandcotiaras.co.uk

HALO & CO COUTURE COLLECTION

Statement Makers As a celebration of The King’s Coronation, Halo & Co has launched the ‘Queen of Kings’ couture collection – let’s face it, we all deserve to be a Queen for the day! The collection focuses on Heirloom pieces, with intricate beading and regal shapes. The collection is all about capturing a regal vibe but with that signature Halo & Co twist, bringing it right up to date for the women of today.

Materials and colours Materials include subtle colours adding a touch of that Royal swagger, from vintage blues to golden shadow crystals to large modern pearls.

Key shapes Shapes take on a nod to the tradition and have a crown headpiece or back diadem.

Where the collection is made “All Halo & Co creations are made from design to finish in our own studio,” explains Nicola Ball. “It can take up to eight weeks from start to finish to make some of our pieces and involves well over 200 individual operations. It’s what goes into a Halo & Co product that counts. The meticulous attention to detail and the fact that our small team touches every bead, pearl, sequin and filigree that is used. This attention to detail stands us above the competition. Every process is done in-house from metalwork, polishing, gem and hand-setting of each stone. Each item is carefully inspected before it leaves us; our quality is guaranteed.

Contact  +44 (0) 1745 403137 sales@haloandco.com www.haloandco.com

POIRIER AT JUPON P E R L A the new collection by

Statement Makers There are some stunning veils in the new Festival collection, just launched in mid-April, some of which have matching items – a top, an overskirt, head piece and tiara. The hair jewel is beautiful, and matching earrings are available.

Materials and colours There are tulle embellished veils with delicate embroidery – flowers and leaves in red, green and rosé – and silver wave embroidery on single-layer soft tulle. The hair jewel is decorated with a butterfly, flowers, leaves, pearls, crystals and rhinestones on a gossamer transparent base.

Contact  +44 (0)1753 622922 info@jupon.com jupon.com

Halo & Co

This new label embraces the core ethos of the Halo & Co couture line but has more of an entrylevel price point for shops and brides working to a smaller budget. Specifically to attract brides with a spectrum of tastes, the 40-piece collection includes floral themes, 3D porcelain flowers and elegant crystal vines alongside minimal modern headbands. “All design and development are done in-house so everything is unique to us, and so will be unique to retailers and their brides,” says Nicola.

“With most suppliers having price increases at a time when costs of running a business seem to be getting higher and higher, we wanted to be able to support stores with accessories at great prices that offer healthy markup, styles that are exclusive for our retailers. Coupled with our 25 years of knowledge of the industry, we offer support and customer care that has stood the test of time,” she explains.

Styles will be kept in stock to offer a speedy re-stocking service; with prices starting from £20-£50.

Contact +44 (0) 1745 403137 sales@haloandco.com www.haloandco.com

America The

Many of the key international design houses choose New York or Chicago to strut their stuff for the season ahead. We already have some firm favourites...

Gentle hints of colour, European laces, and

Bows to the back in Jolene, from the Alyne by Rita Vinieris collection

graceful embroiderie, from the Les Fleurs collection by Claire Pettibone

Beautiful

Lots of sexy seethroughs, boned corsets and slits to the thigh. Red carpet slink and utterly glam.

By Galia Lahav

Day Dreaming is the inspiration at Lihi Hod, a fusion of elegance, sensuality and enchantment

Hollywood by Reem Acra is dream-making. Fairytale ballgowns, plunging necklines and a touch of crystal

Romona

Keveza’s New Goddess Bride stays true to the designer’s signature architectural styles

Celebrating the diverse culture of Mexico, Nadia Manjarrez Bridal uses glorious fabrics and inspired embroideries

Syria’s Rami Al Ali has curated an exquisitely romantic narrative through his 12-piece collection. Creative and innovative

Layer upon layer of luxurious detail is the message from Lebanese design master Saiid Kobeisy

THEIA’s 2024 collection makes a statement about dramatic proportions and thoughtful attention to detail

DECISIONS DECISIONS

The most important thing to decide is where you believe you are going to find the best dresses/accessories for your customers, and the best possible deal from any suppliers to suit your customer requirements. The trade show calendar is full today. Shows are all over the world, including:

Barcelona, Spain

Essen, Germany

London Bridal Week / White Gallery

Paris, France

Harrogate, UK

Rome, Italy

New York, USA

Chicago Bridal Market, USA

Dubai & Abu Dhabi, UAE

The list is endless – and growing fast. What this means for retail business owners is they now have more choice than ever about where to spend their cash. It is no longer limited to just the UK.

This presents a potential issue for exhibitors. Deals, offers and gowns/

accessories which have worked well in the past may now start to become less attractive given the international competition.

For retailers, it can be a headache, too. Trying to seek out something different for your brides – and buying stock under more favourable terms means you may have to go/choose to go further afield to make buying trips fit your business model.

Although, working a fantastic weekend overseas into a buying trip sounds very attractive!

Some designers I know are forgoing the UK to travel to Europe and broaden their market place. Many of these shows, despite being overseas, are very well run and professional. They make it very easy to exhibit.

Why are you attending a trade show? What are your goals?

They may include:

✔Networking with other industry people; both retailers and wholesalers.

✔ Looking for new offerings from new and existing suppliers.

✔ Expanding your collections.

✔ Building strong relationships with suppliers.

✔ None of us know everything. Trade shows will help you learn, hone your buying skills and stay one step ahead of your competition.

Making appointments with suppliers:

Subscribe to supplier mailing lists

– and read them! Study show maps & guides in advance so you don’t waste time wandering aimlessly.

Plan your visit.

It is wise to leave some gaps in appointments with exhibitors so you can actually enjoy walking around and seeing what is on offer. Rushing here and there from appointment to appointment may cause you to miss something. And it’s exhausting.

Brides often do this don’t they! Fill their day with bridal appointments

Choosing which trade shows to visit and who to buy from is a priority for retailers, says Helena Cotter

and have little time to concentrate on their individual experiences. Rather they want to get to the end of the day having crammed as much in as possible.

What about having an appointment at the same time as another retailer? A good idea? Why not?

This is where you can network, hear about each other’s businesses and discover which gowns work for them, which are proving popular and whether retailers are gravitating in one direction or another.

Talking shop is good. You can learn a lot from each other. You can maximise this between appointments during lunch/coffee breaks/in lounges, etc. Sitting yourself alongside other retailers helps break the ice and shows a united front.

Working in a bridal shop can be a lonely experience so being able to mingle with other people like you will be a positive experience.

Preparation:

Make sure in advance you know what you want to spend, and potentially, with whom. Know your numbers inside out.

Think where and with whom your top three to five gown/accessory categories are in gross sales and work with that as a start.

It is vitally important not to be left with dead stock on the rails. Anything which doesn’t repeat is costing space and money in your boutique.

Look at the brands which are not performing and consider why that is, and whether you want to continue with them.

Rein in the spending!

Many, many bridal retailers over-

spend and overbuy. Attending a show is such a great event, it can be easy to be caught up in it all.

One in, one out I believe works. Continually filling up your boutique will only end in more and more items/gowns to try and sell off to make space.

For your customers it can create what I call snow blindness. They cannot see the wood for the trees with so much on offer.

Avoid over stretching yourself into other markets if untested. Work within your trusted parameters until you are financially ready to grow at a steady pace.

If something isn’t working, it should be let go. There isn’t much milage in constantly investing in a gown/product/company which doesn’t fit your business or results in not many/any orders.

Create a comprehensive shopping list – and stick to it: Seek out the most profitable and best-selling gowns on offer. Stock those that you know will work. It is wise though to go with your instincts when looking to try a new label which you’ve never entertained before.

Bridal designers will monitor carefully which collections are doing well, which there are calls for and ones which stick at shows.

Going off on a tangent and buying a wild card dress is something we’ve all been guilty of, I am sure. The mistake buy.

When a box arrives, you unpack it and ask everyone who ordered that particular dress. All is not lost though if you can move it on as fast as possible.

Working with your suppliers: Take photographs and notes. Avoid

buying gowns/accessories which are too alike.

Listen to the experts. A good rep/ designer will always guide you to gowns/products which are on trend and proving popular. They know their dresses!

Spend time building relationships. This industry is all about human nature and trust.

Suppliers will be able to be more flexible/accommodating if they know you. You may need a special favour from them one day.

After the shows

Spend time after the shows, over a week or so, going through all the information and orders you have. You can review your buying decisions in the comfort of your boutique.

And remember, without you and your custom, trade shows would not exist. They are a fantastic forum for both you and the exhibitors alike. A chance for them to shine and for you to stand out above the competition with amazing gowns/accessories.

You have a choice about where you choose to shop. Choose wisely. Plan ahead and know where you want to go.

Your customers, too, can take their pick of where to shop. Spoil them with your choice of gowns. Coming out of your comfort zone at times can reap financial rewards.

As I say to my customers, always aim to be the market leader, not the follower.

The training courses Helena runs are perfect for both brand new and existing businesses of differnt sizes and budgets.

T: +44 (0)1582 451238

M: +44 (0)7896 944759

E: info@helenacotter.co.uk

W: www.helenacotter.co.uk

TECHNO: NEW WAYS

So-called ‘generative AI’ raises deep questions about creativity and the future of literature and art, as well as the future of professions such as the law, medicine and journalism.

However, it also offers enormous possibilities for those of us with less exalted requirements such as the need to write functional documents such as brochures, catalogues and

emails. For people whose expertise is not in writing beautiful prose but selling stuff, generative AI could be a big time saver.

The first generative AI was ChatGPT, developed by a non-profit organisation called OpenAI, which is heavily backed by Microsoft.

Google followed swiftly with its own system, BARD. And it is not just text – other generative AI systems can

produce images and music.

So how does generative AI work?

The basic technology is the neural network, an array of computer ‘switches’ designed to operate in a broadly similar manner to the brain. The array is trained by exposing it to information, asking it questions and correcting its errors. The neural network ‘learns’ and eventually begins

The arrival of artificial intelligence systems that can write in fluent English has stunned the world by their ability to create documents that read as though a human being was the author. But entirely automatically and without any human guidance. Chris Partridge

to produce useful output.

The first AI systems were, frankly, pants, and there were dreadful failures such as AI chatbots that were trained on chats written by humans, and as a result soon degenerated into making shocking racist and sexist comments. The latest generation, however, seems to have got that problem under control.

At present, only ChatGPT is available for wide public use. To find out what the system is capable of, the best thing is to play with it. Go to chat.openai.com and sign on for free. Then you will be presented with a chat box ready for you to type any question you like in. In a matter of seconds, a few hundred words of text will appear.

So, I asked it to tell me the meaning of life. It said:

“The meaning of life is a philosophical and existential question that has puzzled and fascinated humans for centuries. There is no one definitive answer that applies to everyone, as the meaning of life can vary from person to person depending on their beliefs, values, and experiences.”

Plus a few more paragraphs in a similar vein. It is surprisingly good. The sentences flow well, the grammar is impeccable and it is correctly spelt. Easily good enough for the Today Programme’s Thought for the Day.

So could it help with those tiresome writing assignments such as brochures and catalogues?

My next question: “Write a paragraph about a traditional bridal gown”.

ChatGPT’s answer: “A traditional bridal gown is a beautiful and elegant garment worn by a bride on her wedding day. Typically, it features a long, flowing white or ivory skirt, often made of luxurious fabrics like silk, satin, or tulle, and a fitted bodice that accentuates the bride’s figure. The dress may also include intricate lace or embroidery details, as well as delicate beading or sequin embellishments. A traditional bridal gown is designed to make a bride feel stunning and

sophisticated on her special day and is often complemented by a veil, jewellery and other accessories to complete the overall bridal look.

While styles and trends may change over time, the traditional bridal gown remains a timeless and iconic symbol

of love, beauty and commitment.”

That’s really not bad at all. If you put the name of the designer and the basic materials, it could do a bang-up job. In correct English if nothing else,

silk, with a high neckline and a long, flowing skirt that hung straight and true. The bride wore no veil, for she needed no ornamentation to enhance her natural beauty. The dress was unadorned, save for a small bow at the waist, like the final flourish of a fisherman’s line before the catch is landed. It was a gown that spoke of practicality and understated elegance, much like the way a good fisherman goes about his work. In this dress, the bride was ready to face whatever challenges lay ahead, much like a skilled angler who navigates the treacherous waters of the open sea.”

although the AI did spell ‘jewellery’ in the American way, “jewellry”, which does emphasise the need to read the copy carefully before actually publishing it.

Of course, I then started to play my favourite game, literary parody.

Next question for ChatGPT: “Write a paragraph describing a traditional bridal gown in the style of Ernest Hemingway”

The answer: “The bridal gown was a simple, elegant affair, not unlike the graceful lines of a marlin caught in the Gulf Stream. It was made of white

Clearly, Chat GPT has only read The Old Man and the Sea, which is slightly disappointing, but the main takeaway is that, as with all computer systems, if you ask for nonsense that is what you will get. Frame your questions carefully to ensure you get what you really want.

Generative AI is here, and it is going to change our lives. Even if you don’t need computer help to write your promo material or answers to customer queries, everyone should experiment with the technology to get a feel for the challenges and opportunities it offers.

“For people whose expertise is not in writing beautiful prose but selling stuff, generative AI could be a big time saver.”

Price Promotions...

What fashion retailers need to watch

imposes similar (and arguably more onerous) obligations on retailers. What are the key requirements? In short, claims made by retailers in relation to price promotions (including discounts, savings or deals) must be fair, clear and not misleading. Retailers should be aware that both actions (what a promotion says) and omissions (what a promotion does not say) can be treated as misleading customers.

Examples of price promotions

Price promotions that commonly fall foul of the relevant requirements are those that use reference pricing. These are price promotions that seek to demonstrate good value by referring to another (typically higher) price, for example:

price charged by a competitor for the same product.

When assessing whether price promotion is fair, clear and not misleading, official guidance published by the Chartered Trading Standards Institute recommends that retailers consider the following:

The length of the promotional period

How long was the product on sale at the higher price, compared to the period for which the price comparison is made?

In the EU, several member states have recently implemented new rules in respect of price discount claims. These rules require any discounts advertised by retailers to be calculated against the lowest price that an item has been on sale for in the 30 days immediately prior to the price reduction.

Whilst Brexit means that new EU law does not apply within the UK, the relevant law and voluntary codes applicable to promotions in the UK

1. Was/Now prices – a comparison of an advertised price, to a price the retailer has previously charged for the product.

2. Introductory prices – a comparison of the current advertised price to a price the retailer intends to charge in the future.

3. Recommended retail prices (RRP) – a comparison of an advertised price to a price recommended by the manufacturer or supplier.

4. External reference prices – a comparison of an advertised price to a

Previous UK guidance enabled retailers to sell a product at a higher price for a period of 28 consecutive days within the previous six months before it could be reduced and genuinely claimed to be discounted. However, this guidance has since been revised.

Retailers are now advised that a promotion will likely be misleading if a product is sold at a discounted price (where a higher price is referenced) for longer than the product was on sale for at the higher price.

As such, an offer of shoes at a price of £30 for two weeks, which are subsequently promoted as “Was: £30, Now £15” for one month would be misleading.

Every issue we bring you the latest information of new legalities that could affect your business. Advice from the experts really matters...

Price promotions to incentivise sales and maintain brand awareness. But fashion retailers need to be aware of the restrictions and requirements that apply to such promotions, both within the UK and the EU. Steve Sidkin and Tayler Sani of Fox Williams LLP explain

The location of the price promotion and the product with the higher reference price

Where and in what type of stores will the price comparison be made (compared to the stores in which the product was on sale for at the higher price)?

Retailers should be wary of referring to a higher price in a store where that price was never charged. This is particularly relevant for retailers that have:

1. Online and/or bricks-andmortar outlet stores in addition to traditional retail stores which products are offered for a lower standard price; and

2. Multiple store branches in which products are offered for different prices.

Intervening prices and the time lapse between when a product was discounted and when this discount was promoted

Was there a gap in time between when a product had its price reduced and when this reduced price was promoted as a discount? Is the higher price referenced in a promotion the last price that a product was sold at?

Retailers should assess whether a promotional claim is in fact genuine where:

1. There is a time gap between the product being discounted and the advertisement of the discount claim (for example, where a shirt is offered at £10 and then is reduced to £5 with no claim of saving, and a number of weeks later the shirt is labelled as “Was £10, Now £5”); and

2. the higher price referenced in a promotion was not the last price that a product was sold at.

Seasonality

Where demand for products is seasonal, are comparisons being made to out-of-season season prices during in-season sales?

A promotion may be treated as misleading if a retailer increases the price of a product when it is out-of-season and then lowers

the price in time for the expected product demand in order to make a promotional claim.

The quantity of products sold at the higher reference price

Were significant sales made at the higher price prior to the price comparison being made? Is there any reasonable expectation that consumers would purchase the product at the higher price?|It may be more difficult for a retailer to argue that a price promotion is fair and not misleading if:

1. the higher price referred to in the price promotion is not a realistic selling price for the product; or

2. the retailer has been unable to sell a significant number of units of the product at that higher price.

Consequences of non-compliance

Failure to comply with price promotion requirements can result in the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) making an adverse ruling against a retailer. Negative publicity is one of the most notable consequences that flows from an adverse ruling being made, as these rulings are published on the ASA’s website.

J Rosée Fine Jewellery is one example of a retailer that has been subject to an adverse ruling by the ASA in relation to price referencing promotions.

This retailer ran a promotion for a necklace that stated “Price: £129.87. Sale: £17.87. You Save: £112.00 (86%)”. The ASA decided that this promotion was misleading as the necklace had not been on sale for more than £25 within the past 12 months.

In some instances, retailers could also face civil enforcement action or even criminal prosecution. For example, Signet Trading Limited, the owner of jewellers, H. Samuel, was fined £60,000 for running a promotion in which it was not declared that there had been an intervening price that was lower than the prior price stated on the promotion.

The promotional price also ran for longer than the item was originally

available at full price.

Officers’ Club was also prosecuted for making savings claims in relation to a range of shirts in its stores when the higher reference price had only been applied in a couple of stores and to a limited range of shirts.

Promotions do not stop at the price either. In early February 2023, Gymshark become the latest fashion retailer to come under fire for misleading promotional practices when its advertised express delivery offering was ruled misleading by the ASA.

Takeaway points

Fashion retailers should ensure that any savings or discount claims made are genuine, and that price promotions are, as a general rule, fair, clear and not misleading.

Retailers with multiple branches or outlet stores should be conscious of not misleading customers by referring to higher prices in stores where that higher price has not been charged.

When making comparisons to a RRP, retailers should clearly tell clients that the higher price is a RRP rather than a price that they have charged in store.

And finally

Fashion retailers should not feel singled out in respect of these requirements relating to price promotions. The Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) recently announced that it will be considering pricing practices in the retail grocery industry to ensure that prices are clearly and fairly displayed.

In light of the CMA’s focus on consumer protection amid the cost-of-living crisis, we expect the fairness and transparency of price promotions in many industries to come under increasing scrutiny in the year to come.

Sidkin is a partner and Tayler Sani a trainee solicitor at Fox Williams LLP

Stephen

2

Turnover Rents for fashion companies – not the new kid on the block

With tough trading conditions for fashion retailers, turnover rents are becoming more appealing for tenants and more acceptable for landlords. Rebecca Facey and Sian Kersse offer five key suggestions to retailers

Turnover rents are calculated as a percentage of the gross turnover the tenant makes at the leased property. By their nature, turnover rents are therefore uncertain and subject to change, potentially upwards or downwards annually, depending on the terms agreed with the landlord. A turnover rent is usually determined using one of two standard models:

1 The first, a pure turnover lease where the whole rent is calculated as a percentage – say 10% of the tenant’s annual turnover. This is generally less common and less favoured by landlords.

2. The second, more commonly used ‘top up’ model is where there is a minimum base rent - generally around 20% lower than the open market - which would be topped up with a fixed percentage of the tenant’s annual turnover, insofar as it is over and above that base rent.

Conceptually, turnover rent leases depart from the more rigid structure of the traditional market rent lease and allow the flexibility and creativity sought by tenants (and, less frequently, landlords) in a turbulent market.

Turnover rents in action

Turnover rents can be beneficial to both landlords and tenants as they generally foster a more collaborative relationship – it being in both parties’ interests to make the store as profitable as possible.

If the alternative for the landlord is an empty premises, this model can help the landlord to avoid paying business rates on empty units, and, with an occupied store, there will likely be tenant obligations to keep it in repair and pay service charges at the very least.

The use of revenue-based rental models in outlet villages and shopping centres, such as Bicester Village and the London Designer Outlet, has much to do with the landlord’s control over substantial common parts and amenities, and so some ability to drive footfall to the retail units. As a result the use of such models is quite commonplace.

But post-COVID, the frequency of tenants entering Company Voluntary Arrangements (CVAs) have forced landlords to accept this model where they might have previously resisted. New Look, AllSaints and Clarks are just some examples of this.

However, moving from a fixed market rent to a turnover rent has

seen a fall in the rents received by some landlords. It is therefore unsurprising that many of them, including major landlords such as British Land, have challenged the attempts made by their tenants to pay rent based on the turnover model, with varying levels of success.

On the other hand, in an unusual case in 2022 involving JD Sports, the landlord argued that a turnover rent should be payable (presumably based on healthy figures at the subject store) but the court determined that it would not be appropriate to impose a turnover rent. The result was a much lower fixed market rent than what would have been payable had the turnover model been awarded!

Five top tips for retail tenants

If you are thinking of moving to a turnover rent lease, or are in current lease negotiations, tenants can consider the following:

1. Do you want a turnover rent?

Bearing in mind the JD Sports judgment above, it might be that, in the current market, a fixed market value rent is the better option. Running worked examples will help you to decide which model works best for your business.

2. Seek clarity. Understand what is

included in the meaning of turnover for the purposes of calculating the rent. Here, it generally means gross turnover and not profit.

When calculating the gross turnover, all sums received in or from the premises by the retailer will be considered.

Typically, that includes payments received by concessions or subtenants at the store, ancillary charges such as delivery and postage, and the full sale value of any items where staff discounts or rewards are given. It is widely accepted that VAT, other sales taxes and customer

refunds will be deducted.

3. Negotiate the finer detail. We often find that the biggest headache comes with the detail. For example, how will you deal with online sales, click and collect and showroom stores? How will you report to the landlord on your store figures? Will you be required to employ external auditors? Ensure whatever you agree actually works for you and your business, and that the right personnel in your company is talking to your lawyers and agents when negotiating the terms.

Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases. (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

4. Get creative. There is often a lot of scope to tailor the turnover rent provisions to suit your business and its needs. If you have some bargaining power, use it and do not be afraid to explore your options.

5. Watch out for other lease clauses. The turnover rent provisions are often seen as distinct from the rest of the lease, but it might impact other lease clauses such as ‘keep open’ obligations, landlord termination rights where the turnover rent isn’t performing, and reversions to a fixed rent if the lease is transferred to a new tenant.

Rebecca Facey is a legal director and Sian Kersse is an associate at Fox Williams LLP

© 2023 Fox Williams LLP

www.fashionlaw.co.uk

www.foxwilliams.com

BRIDESPEAK

Who is doing the planning? That’s what we asked brides-to-be who have their big-day date confirmed and the detail still to get organised

“We’ve gone to traditional route and checked out six different planners who do the whole thing for you. We prepared a list of key questions that covered everything from cost, of course, to venue facilities vs marquee at home, even down to cake suppliers, so we could get a clear idea of what services were included within our budget. We also wanted them to be aware of the fact that we have two small children, 4 and 2, and wanted them to be very much part of the day. One planner we saw switched off completely when we brought that subject up. In the end, we chose the team that made us feel comfortable and talked us through all the options that they felt would meet our needs. They have made themselves available 24/7, which is so reassuring.” Gerry

“I have to say, the consultant at the venue itself has been amazing. Obviously, she knows exactly what is possible there but she has not been trying to ‘sell’ us extras, as I understand others tend to do. She also asked all the right questions about immediately family and special needs, which I really appreciated. I told her at the start that my mother wanted to get involved in the menu planning and she took the time to introduce her to the chef and staff and to talk through the menu and offer suggestions, all of which we have taken up. I feel really confident that our day will be perfect.” Philippa

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

“Don’t laugh. I feel I have a real relationship with the consultant at the boutique that is doing my dress and I asked her for a view on local planners. The one she suggested is perfect in every respect and that’s who we are going with. I don’t have time to get deeply involved in detail and feel completely confident that all will be perfect.”

Joanna

“It’s me, me, me. Love to say my other half is involved but right from the start he said: “Surprise me”. I should have realised there and then that he wanted no part in the planning proceedings but I suppose not having to get a second opinion from him has its advantages. My sister, who got married just before Covid, and my best friend (who is still hoping to find her Mr Right) have been brilliant, listening to my ‘either/or’ conversations and then coming back with an honest response. They have been with me to look at venues, they have got involved in styling ideas – and sourcing things like invites and table gifts, and they have had chats with the venue about flowers and the menu and music, etc. My brother-in-law is a photographer, so that was one area sorted from the start. There is so much info online nowadays so finding musicians or DJs is actually quite straightforward, especially if you check those who have won awards.” Sarah

“My approach is very straightforward. I have visited countless designers’ websites, I have searched styles and fabrics, and I have found brands that I really like. Then I checked which local shops carried those labels and have made appointments with two shops. I feel I know just what I want but I do appreciate I could change my mind when I start trying dresses on, although I don’t think I will.”

Susana

“We are getting married abroad, in the sunshine, in southern Portugal, where my aunt and uncle live. I feel I know my way around there as we have stayed with them regularly and have favourite restaurants already. My aunt has become our liaison point and she is also arranging the actual exchange of vows… by the pool! The rules there are quite straightforward and she is booking a local celebrant. We are only inviting immediate family and around 12 friends have already made hotel bookings for two nights for our guests. Is that planning? For me, yes. My only concern is that my dress travels well.”

Marie

“Well, the past couple of months have been a bit of a whirlwind, to say the least. And that’s because of the number of big exhibitions on the agenda, and then suppliers choosing to show in hotels when, however good their collection, it is taking our time away from a fullon buying plan. Do others think this is the way forward? I know this year I missed out on accessory buying because I didn’t have the time. I avoid the New York shows now because they are so spread out and you spend more time trying to get a cab than thinking about what to order. Wouldn’t it be better if everything was back to being under one roof – and maybe one day longer – or should we just ask reps to come visit us?”

“I seem to remember that a good few years ago a charity was working to collect unsold gowns/samples from retailers and suppliers to distribute them to brides-to-be in third-world countries who otherwise had no chance of having a dream dress. Does this still exist and if so, who should I contact?”

“Having experts at shows available to chat to and learn from is an excellent way to improve your business. But I do think it would be great if those sessions could be held before or after hours each day so they don’t overlap with buying appointments. I got quite agitated at my one-to-one because I was worried I would miss out on seeing a particular collection in the main hall.”

“I am increasingly seeing brides who are talking about getting married abroad, in the sunshine and preferably on the beach. They say small numbers, like immediate family and close friends, and that they’d ideally like a big party on their return. Have any other shops had any experience of getting wedding planners in to present to an audience of brides (better still, couples) and explain all the ins and outs? I thought this could make a really good event that would generate local publicity. Please pass on any views.”

And finally

Ups and downs, ins and outs, but so much to look forward to

“I am so aware that ‘sustainability’ is a word that is bandied around. What questions should I be asking potential suppliers? What fabrics fall into the category? Are makers honest about their products. I know this question keeps coming up but the need to address it is becoming increasingly important. I for one don’t want to make claims that could be challenged.”

Got a view you want to share with like-minded others? Want suggestions from industry colleagues? Email me – susi@rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going. We are for retailers, and about retailers.

ROMANTICA OF DEVON

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