SPECTR Issue 38

EMBRACE THE FUTURE

3D printed eyewear custom made swiss eyewear design

The acetate line LUNOR A 13 epitomizes characteristic retro design like no other and captivates with its intricately crafted two-tone lamination. Those looking to make a statement with dazzling retro eyewear will love the large anatomic 554 variant.

Fakir

OH HEY, IT’S YOU. AN EXALTED SOUL UNLIKE MERE MORTALS, ABLE TO TRAVEL INTO BOTH THE FUTURE AND THE PAST. AREN’T YOU SOMETHING? WE KNOW SOMEONE AS TRANSCENDENT AS YOU, WHO FOUND THE MEANING OF LIFE AND CAN MEDITATE YOUR WAY TO OTHER PLANES, FREED YOURSELF FROM MATERIAL DESIRES LONG AGO. BUT THAT DOESN’T MEAN YOU DON’T DESERVE A SICK PAIR OF GLASSES. EVEN MYSTICS NEED A LITTLE GUIDANCE THROUGH LIFE – AND PROTECTION FROM HARMFUL UV RAYS DOESN’T HURT EITHER.

#6125

50 □ 24-145

CLOSE YOUR EYES SING

AND

INDEPENDENT EYEWEAR FOR FREE OPTICIANS

MEMPHIS Outstanding Styles From Face A Face

THE ZEBRA IS OUT Breathtaking Campaign From Etnia Barcelona

ELEGANCE MEETS CRAFTSMANSHIP Cartier – Timeless Luxury Eyewear

NEXT STEP TO THE FUTURE Ava Verce Featuring Markus T

88

100 SEASONS Markus T –Freedom Through Experience

PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES Lool – Sustainable Eyewear From Barcelona

ME, MYSELF & I By

Oliver Spies

SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE By Narente

104

FROM TORONTO TO MARRAKECH Nirvan Javan Highlights From Two Collections

DOUBLE THE TRAFFIC ON YOUR WEBSITE For Independent Opticians Only

EYEWEAR FASHION DESIGN FROM BERLIN 10 Questions

For Veronika Wildgruber

SPY GAME By Sacha

Tassilo Höchstetter

LIGHTBOX FAVR Essentials Vol. I

THE LITTLE THINGS LIndberg With Designs For Small Faces

By Jessica Grossmann

By Diane Betties

THE BLUE HOUR Blackfin 2023 Highlights

SIESTA ETERNA

By Sophie Daum

PASSION FOR PERFORMANCE Porsche Design Eyewear

By Patrick Dempsey

RESPONSIBLY MADE. REMARKABLY CLASSIC. Great Styles From Raen

PERSONALIZED HIGH-END EYEWEAR Hoet Couture – 3D Printed Titanium Frames

BIOTATE EYEWEAR WITH FASHION ATTITUDE Marc O’Polo 2023 Highlights

DO GOOD AND TALK ABOUT IT Bizz Talk With PR Specialist

Silvia Boccardi

MILES TO GO

By Rachel Jiam

“NOI – We are bold” by Ulrich Hartmann (pages 138 – 142)

EDITOR IN CHIEF

STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] dongus@spectr-magazine.com

m: +49.(0)151.14271817

LAYOUT

CARO ROSS [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com

EDITORIAL STAFF

MEIKE PRECKEL [Cologne] preckel@spectr-magazine.com

HOLGER VON KROSIGK [Cologne] krosigk@spectr-magazine.com

PROOFREADING

PETER ASHFORD [London]

INSA MUTH [Dortmund]

FRANCA RAINER [Berlin]

TRANSLATION

MICHAEL BÖTTIGER [Berlin]

PHOTOGRAPHERS/PRODUCERS

DIANE BETTIES [Barcelona]

SOPHIE DAUM [Mallorca]

PIETRO GROFF [Berlin]

JESSICA GROSSMANN [Berlin]

ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin]

DAVOR JELUSIC [Berlin]

RACHEL JIAM [Berlin]

SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich]

NARÈNTE //

LUCIO ARU & FRANCO ERRE [Sardinia]

NOCERA & FERRI [London]

RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf]

OLIVER SPIES [Munich]

PUBLISHER

MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH

Kamekestrasse 20-22

50672 Cologne, Germany

t: +49.(0)221.945267-11

f: +49.(0)221.945267-27

www.spectr-magazine.com

CEOS

STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK

SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.

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Embrace The Future

“The Blue Hour” (pages 160 – 165)

The future has come even faster than we thought... or feared. “Artificial Intelligence” is the buzzword of the year and we honestly admit that we also occasionally fall back on the support of Chat GPT & Co. here and there. There are some areas where it makes sense. But, for multidimensional texts like those here at SPECTR Magazine, it will take a few more years beforean AI is the editor-in-chief.

Nevertheless, the trend is clear and the future can no longer be stopped; rather, it has already arrived in force in the present. Artificial intelligence is a great help for many areas of work, but some kinds of jobs will be massively endangered by AI or even replaced completely. A lot will change.

The good news: for opticians, not much is likely to change in the short and medium term. AI alone can’t build eyeglasses, grind in lenses, or customize a model of eyeglasses for the customer. But opticians can use the potential of AI for themselves and their business... for the creation of texts, for repetitive activities, but also with legal matters and the generation of images, at least for images without a concrete product reference. It is a worthwhile topic for opticians to explore.

As media addicts, we already interact with AI every day, but we are also a bit enamored of technology. So, we’re happy to release another shoot in the current issue, featuring our favorite virtual model, Ava. FAVR has also added a few new features relevant to opticians since the March relaunch. For example, FAVR Microsites have become more flexible FAVR Product Landing Pages, which opticians can better customize to their own needs. The pages can now even be integrated into the navigation structure of the optician’s own website. What remains is the simplicity of integration: Click & Connect. Opticians with FAVR Product Landing Pages now even get access to individual reporting of their own Product Landing Pages. And if the FAVR Product Landing Pages figures are not enough, you can now configure your own website reporting dashboard to get a convenient overview of your own target group and website performance at any time. Embrace the future. SD

You can find further information here:

artwork VERCE

photography, casting & styling NARÈNTE // LUCIO ARU & FRANCO ERRE [ Sardinia ]

hair & make-up DANIELA DESSÌ

MEMPHIS

FACE A FACE »Sotsas 1«

models CLARA ENNA at ELITE MILAN & BALY KHOUMA

MEMPHIS

Outstanding Unconventional Collections From Face A Face

FACE A FACE has been a premium French designer label for a long time, known for its lovingly and elaborately designed collections. In its new collections, this attitude typical of the brand gets a tangible motto. The symbiosis of colors and sculptural shapes is done in the style of Memphis. The Parisian designers are inspired by the radical art movement of the 80s, which turned the minimalism of the time on its head. Marianne Dèzes from the FACE A FACE Design Lab explains to us exactly what influence the Memphis style has on the individual models.

FACE

FACE A FACE

Hi Marianne, where does your love for the Memphis style come from?

The father of my Italian boyfriend, in the old days, lived in an Italian villa full of Memphis masterpieces – a crazy house! When we saw the “MEMPHIS” exhibition in Beaubourg Museum in Paris, we rediscovered the Memphis roots and its fascinating "beautiful-ugly" atmosphere. What are the main distinguishing features of this art movement?

Memphis is a mix of wild kitsch postmodernism based on elementary geometrical shapes, a shock of patterns in reaction to the rational-minimalist dictatorship of those times. It is nonconformist, breaking all the codes, and giving expressiveness a much bigger value than functionality.

The Memphis style is the counter-design to “form follows function” or “less is more”. Weren’t you always very close to this style with your design orientation anyway?

You could say so, but like all designers, we used to have some “rules of good taste”, such as not mixing strong patterns. But Memphis pushed us to try new ways to break our own rules.

The founder of the Memphis movement, Ettore Sottsass, once said “design begins where rational processes end, and those of magic start.” Does this attitude also apply to your eyewear design?

We are very much looking for this emotion as a way to validate our designs. When you like something at first sight, and you cannot explain why, you can be sure you are dealing with a strong aesthetic emotion, and that is a very exciting moment.

tie GIANNI FERAUD

FACE A FACE

»Stella 2« -

pullover BENETTON

FACE A FACE

»Stella 1« -

total look STUDIO VERTICE

What specific design elements do you have in mind?

All of them, of course! The pure cylinder in »Sotsas«, the sculptured rainbow of »Novva«, the infinite spiral of »Calder« … Which color worlds do we find in the new collections?

We enjoyed working on new purple and green combinations, black and white patterns with vivid colors, a mix of 80s and 70s colors, and daring big contrasts. Is there a focus on specific materials?

Not really. It is more the art of recombining things, exploring new contrasts, but also new shades, such as duck green with

smoked transparencies, deep violet shading, and burnt oranges. So maybe a spreading of 70s color in the air.

With your new collections, you appeal to the irrational and the unconventional.

Could you tell us for the models from our collection shoot what is special about it for you?

In the »Calder« concept, you have a titanium volumed spiral running around the eyes. It gives a sensation of great freedom, and the frame seems to be done in one gesture – you would not notice the huge technical development behind it. »Gioco«, which means “Play”

in Italian, evokes both the queen of diamonds and the playful spirit of Memphis elementary shapes and colors. »Novva« sunglasses also have this bold elementary look, sophisticated with sculptures, contrasts, and rich transparencies.

In summary, what influence has Memphis had on your designs?

The theme of “elementary plays” definitely inspired us. We have been looking for something between “naïve childhood” and “connoisseur knowledge”. faceaface-paris.com

FACE A FACE »Gioco 1«

sweater RECLAIMED VINTAGE

FACE A FACE »Bocca Cocto 3« -

shirt STUDIO VERTICE blazer VINTAGE tie DEVIL’S ADVOCATE

MARKUS T

»DOT Mono L1054«

Next Step Into The Future Ava Verce Featuring Markus T »Dot Mono L1054«

Long live beauty! Our top model Ava Verce, who has modeled eyewear for SPECTR twice already, has made a splash like an impacting meteor. The immediate reactions of our readers ranged from flat-out incredulity to astonishment and admiration, to fear for the future. We can understand all three positions, of course, but count ourselves among the crowd of admirers. So, when Ava invited us to her virtual studio at Verce for her third shoot, we were beyond excited. At our “meeting“, we discuss hair and makeup, work together to coordinate the styling, and make decisions about the lighting setup. Lastly, we go through the individual poses for the shoot with Ava.

From a pool of ten glasses, Ava selects the MARKUS T »L1054«. She especially likes the bold frame at the eyebrow. A good choice – after all, the DOT Mono Series model is made of ultra-thin, precisely lasered titanium plates. This makes the glasses so light that they’re barely noticeable without sacrificing the durability needed for everyday wear. With its rectangular design, screwless hinges and horizontally tilted temples, the »L1054« combines delicate design with advanced technology – two aspects that are usually at odds with one another. “To me, the »L1054« is spectacular and unobtrusive at the same time. Technical but still modest.” Ava has, apparently, fallen in love with the MARKUS T model and would like to keep it as part of her virtual collection. “It’s a gift”, the East Westphalian brand responds.

Craftsmanship

Cartier –Timeless Luxury Eyewear Elegance Meets Unparalleled

CARTIER is a renowned French luxury brand, famous for its timeless creations, including high-end jewelry, watches, leather goods, fragrances, and eyewear. Established in 1847, CARTIER has become a top choice for the French elite, and its popularity has grown to include the royal houses of Europe and beyond. Despite being known for its watches and jewelry, CARTIER’s eyewear collection is equally impressive and boasts the same high-quality design and craftsmanship. Each CARTIER eyewear piece is a testament to the style and history of the brand.

Louis-Francois Cartier founded the brand in Paris in 1847, taking over his master’s workshop. Despite ongoing uncertainty and unrest

campaign image CARTIER

during the French Revolution, CARTIER continued to see success and growth over the next decade, eventually opening the first boutique in 1859. In 1874, Louis-Francois’ son Alfred Cartier took over the business and introduced CARTIER to the royal houses of Europe and beyond. The brand continued to see success and eventually opened a showroom in Paris’s Rue de La Paix area in 1899.

Alfred's three sons Louis, Pierre, and Jacques Cartier had the grand aspirations of transforming the CARTIER brand into an international luxury powerhouse. Each of the three brothers made contributions that helped drive the brand forward. Louis built trusting relationships in Europe. Pierre brought CARTIER to New York by using a stunning, million-dollar pearl necklace to snag a coveted piece of real estate on Fifth Avenue, which would become the CARTIER townhouse. Jacques helped inform CARTIER’s signature, Easterninfluenced aesthetic.

The eyewear collection, which has been around for over 30 years, is not just your average license deal focused on profiting from a popular logo. On the contrary, the eyewear is boasting the same impeccable design and quality ethos as the brand's other products. CARTIER works with some of the best opticians in the industry; select products are now available on FAVR.

cartier.com

photography OLIVER SPIES [ Munich ]

hair DIRK WALTHER make-up EMILY SCHEMBRA

styling KATHARINA GRUSZCZYNSKI

models ELIZABETH LAN, VICTORIA BIRO & JONATHAN TOLNO at TIGERS MGMT, LUIS & OMAR

SELF & I ME, MY

MASUNAGA »Bird«jacket AYZIT BOSTAN VINTAGE shirt ÉTUDES necklace STYLIST’S OWN

I-SPAX »Sage«necklace ALIITA

I-SPAX »Willow«

METROPOLITAN »8280«jacket PERFECTO VINTAGE shirt MARC JACOBS

DAVIDOFF »DAPS112-03«

shirt MAX&CO skirt PATRIZIA PEPE

shirt ZARA pants MASSIMO DUTTI

J.F. REY

»JF3032 3343«

pullover BENETTON

RAEN »Naiven« -

overcoat STUDIO VERTICE

shirt RECLAIMED VINTAGE

Georg MARKUS T Design DOT Mono L 1048

ONLY FOR INDEPENDENT OPTICIANS

With products and virtual try-on on your own website

“Wow, you have nice glasses!”

K. to Brillen bei Milewski, Frankfurt

Simon

Customers want to browse, look at glasses and try them out for themselves — not only in the store, but also online.

The FAVR Product Landing Pages

, integrated into your own website, inspire

No technical know-how necessary

→ Our IT does everything for you in the background.

Easy and fast installation

→ The integration into your website takes less than 10 minutes.

Automatic updating

→ New products are automatically integrated into your product pages.

Efficient sales preparation

→ Let your customers make a first pre-selection at home before they come to the store.

Your customer remains your customer

→ Your visitors can never go anywhere else via the product landing pages.

NEW: Conveniently customizable

→ You can select brands and products in our toolkit, arrange them and store your own prices.

NEW: Full overview

→ In your individual reporting you can see at any time which products and brands your customers are most interested in.

NEW: Integration into your website design

→ Your customer can navigate between your menu items at any time.

Manageable costs

→ Our subscription system allows you to use all services for a flat fee.

No long-term commitment

→ You can cancel monthly, even if it doesn't make sense ;-)

With the FAVR Virtual Try-On you offer your website visitors inspiration and interaction at the highest level.

More visibility on favrspecs.com

→ You automatically get a top positioning on the biggest eyewear platform including a valuable backlink to your website.

“So I tried the virtual try-on right away and found four pairs of glasses that I find exciting.“

Rüdiger H. to Schaulust Optik, Dresden

10 Questions For Veronika Wildgruber Eyewear Fashion Design From Berlin

“Elemental shapes interwoven: The bridge threads itself as a straight line into the two circular frames of the lenses. The twotone frames test the limits of production.”

For over 10 years, Berlin product designer Veronika Wildgruber has graced the independent eyewear industry with stunning and mostly three-dimensional designs and offering experience and insight that we needed more than 10 questions to explore.

Hello Veronika, when and why did you launch VERONIKA WILDGRUBER Eyewear?

There wasn’t really an actual launch. It just kind of happened as we went. I registered the brand in 2012 as a reaction more than anything else.

To what?

I won a Silmo d`Or with my first eyewear design in 2010. At that time, I didn’t have a brand yet. I also didn’t know whether I

even wanted to focus on eyewear design. Do your eyewear models follow a particular stylistic direction or design philosophy?

Yes, my own. And that would be?

My main motivation is to develop my own recognizable and aesthetically unique style.

You experiment with three-dimensionality a lot. Where does this predilection for depth come from?

Well, I’m a product designer. Furniture, décor, items of all kind – product design is what I studied. When I started with eyewear, my first thought was, “How do I turn such a two-dimensional item into a three-dimensional product?”

Did you already have a target demographic in mind during the design process? What does a typical VERONIKA WILDGRUBER customer look like?

Not really. Of course, I like to imagine a cool, emancipated metropolitan woman... or Spike Lee, probably the best-known testimonial for my eyewear designs. Several opticians have also told me, though, that their moms only wear Wildgrubers now. I think that’s at least as cool.

What kinds of designs and colors are especially common in your collections?

I like big and round designs. My collections also tend to feature the color green again and again in various shades,

»Marvel«

»Smith«

“Aluminum in the collection for the first time: a rod of raw aluminum meets its geometric counterpart. Two materials with contrasting feels combine to create a unique form.”

“Familiar form with gentle roughness: the volumes are sculptured, with matte surfaces meeting at sharp edges and a deeper bridge detail.”

such as mint, bottle-green or petrol. What kinds of materials do you like to play with?

I really enjoy acetate – it’s so versatile and well-suited to three-dimensional design. It’s a great material. Since last year, I also started working with aluminum. That might be my new favorite material. Let’s talk about sustainability. What does VERONIKA WILDGRUBER do about its carbon footprint?

I don’t like greenwashing or sustainability as a PR strategy – as if that were progressive. In my opinion, the idea that producers have a responsibility to the environment should be treated as a matter of course.

How do you do it?

All of our components are produced in Europe by family businesses in Germany and Italy. We handle product development in close personal contact with our producers to ensure that our values and our requirements are met at every step. That doesn’t just guarantee top quality, it also ensures that we maintain the highest standards for working conditions and sustainable production processes.

What’s special about the new 2023 models?

The new models are all about gradients, both in regard to the volume, as well as the color. As always three-dimensionality

plays an important role: at the front, the back, and “between”.

What are your plans for the future?

I want to grow slowly alongside my brand. It’s important to me that I and the people who work for me – whether internally or off-site – are doing well. That everyone enjoys doing what they’re doing. I don’t want to lose sight of that. If I get up in the morning and I don’t feel like going to my studio, something is wrong. Success is great, but not at any price.

veronikawildgruber.com

The Zebra Is Out Breathtaking Campaign Images From Etnia Barcelona

ETNIA BARCELONA celebrates its 20th anniversary by expanding its Heritage Collection with new models, paying tribute to their symbolic Wild Love in Africa collection. The corresponding campaign – Zebra –convinces us with its powerful and expressive images, so we award the Catalan brand the Campaign Award in the current issue. Zebra is not only a homage to the beauty of African wildlife, but also to the philosophy of ETNIA BARCELONA

photos MOUS LAMRABAT

The new collection is a love letter to Africa, celebrating its rich culture, traditions, and vibrant colors. The models of the Heritage Collection were inspired by unique textures that were influenced by the landscapes of the African continent.

Pop-art-inspired acetate shapes that recreate the patterns of “animal print” in vibrant colors like bubblegum pink, orange, fluorescent green, black, or white have been added to the collection. The three models made from Mazzucchelli’s natural acetate are 7mm thick and have 3D indentations that give the glasses a relief effect and increase wearing comfort. The collection’s models are equipped with mineral lenses with HD color technology that offer a unique viewing experience.

The new models are showcased in the Zebra campaign. ETNIA BARCELONA hired Moroccan-born, Belgium-based photographer Mous Lamrabat for the campaign, emphasizing their connection to art and culture. Mous’ work in Zebra celebrates Moroccan culture.

The campaign mixes the life-affirming colors of the Heritage Collection with the colors of the African desert. The images from the Zebra campaign are expressive snapshots that show elements of everyday life in Morocco, placed in a new context. The campaign not only reflects Mous’ personal commitment, but also shows once again that ETNIA BARCELONA values artists by giving them the opportunity to unfold their own DNA. For us, Zebra is primarily a visually skilled staging of products.

etniabarcelona.com

100 Seasons Markus T – Freedom Through Experience

To celebrate their 25th anniversary, MARKUS T is deliberately doing things a bit differently than other brands usually do when it comes to marking their first quarter-century in the industry. Their campaign 100 SEASONS is stunning from both a visual and a design perspective. For the East Westphalian brand, however, it’s far more than just a campaign –it reflects a creed and offers a call to action. 100 seasons worth of experience have given MARKUS T the skills and confidence to flexibly and sustainably launch new designs and campaigns. We sat down with founder Markus Temming to learn how he makes it work without damaging the brand’s identity.

Hi Markus. First off, congratulations on your 100 SEASONS campaign. It was a great success! So, why didn’t you just celebrate your 25th anniversary?

The classic wreath of silver laurels just doesn’t really suit us. That’s how we came up with the idea of 100 SEASONS in our marketing: 25 times spring, summer, fall and winter gives us 100 seasons of MARKUS T.

What does 100 SEASONS mean to you?

What’s the core message of the campaign?

We don’t just want to celebrate our birthday on a single day, but rather throughout the entire anniversary year of 2023.

How?

Internally with discounts for our employees and externally with a special campaign – this year, we ourselves are the models for all of our marketing materials! No matter whether it’s on a trade fair booth, advertisements or PoS materials, the graphical frame combined with the strong character of the blackand-white portraits really sets the stage for our eyewear models.

Let’s start by looking back at your company’s 25 years of history. What were your major milestones?

There are really a lot of those… One

The new models of the DOT Mono collection with their special hinge technology also look great in rose gold.

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Perfection through reduction

– restrained designs by MARKUS T.

highlight of the brand’s life was certainly its “birth” in 1998 with the development of DESIGN Classic – a collection that we still have in our portfolio today. Our collections, customer base, patents, design awards and employee count all grew steadily to the point where we needed more space. That made 2016 another major milestone: When we moved into the glass factory in GüterslohIsselhorst. It was a project with a lot of ups and downs and emotions – often at the edge of what was doable. In retrospect it was a very exciting time and resulted in something that we’re very proud of.

As you should be! Materials and technology always play an important role – what represents MARKUS T in that regard?

We rely on two materials: Titanium of the highest quality and our own proprietary light-weight plastic TMi. We specialize in both materials from the raw materials to the shaping process and coloring. We perfect every step in the production process until it works just the way we want it. That’s how we developed our

patented titanium coloring process MSC in 2014, for example. It’s a highly complex anodizing process that’s still astonishing to see for us and our visitors years later. You’ve also made a real impression with your designs.

Yes, that’s true. We want people to be able to recognize our glasses on sight –even if there is no label on the frame to reveal the brand. Often, we find out that MARKUS T wearers know each other. How do you pull that off?

Our frames speak for themselves. We don’t disguise the technology, instead, we actively work to feature it center stage. With this new campaign you’re also deviating a little bit from the classical MARKUS T style. What’s changing?

In 2023 we are purposely experimenting with designs that aren’t as subdued as would be typical for MARKUS T. Take our anniversary collection, which we are raffling off during trade fairs as part of a social media campaign, for example.

For our motto, we took inspiration from the four seasons. Titanium frames, delicately laser-cut – for example with

flower detailing for the spring frame. That kind of creative experimentation is something we’ll carry on throughout the year, featuring spontaneous ideas that we deliberately didn’t plan out ahead of time. So that brand identity isn’t being fundamentally revamped?

No, this approach doesn’t mean we are turning our back on who we were! There are always new ideas at MARKUS T, but this year we are purposely choosing to be braver and more experimental than we were – to worry less about the “ifs and buts”. With 25 years of experience, we can afford to try switching our focus.

“Perfection through reduction” is still a part of your guiding principles, though. Right?

Absolutely. Even when it’s changing directions, a brand should always keep its DNA in mind – and our brand’s genes are coded with “Simple. Beautiful. Intelligent.” How would you describe your current status quo? Has MARKUS T already changed, and where is it heading?

Of course, we change all the time – that’s also a part of our DNA. That doesn’t mean

we blindly follow every trend. Rather, it means that we respond to the needs of opticians. That kind of flexibility is only possible because we manufacture here in Germany, in Gütersloh-Isselhorst. As a result, we have direct control over the quality of our products right here.

You sent us three new models from the DOT Mono Collection for this interview. What’s special about these models?

What really makes our popular DOT Mono Collection special is its unique hinge technology. The three new models are part of the DOT Mono Collection, but they also stand alone in a way. The two-dimensional design of the fronts is

something I just considered very cool in its simplicity. So cool that I’m wearing it myself. The tone of the rose gold 24 karat PVD finish really makes the design pop and gives the frames a kind of special and classy “golden glow”.

Why the focus on rose gold? Is this also playing on your 100 SEASONS campaign? Which season do the three models belong to?

This impression of a “golden glow” is inspired by the warmer days that we’re all wishing for right now, right? The subtle rose gold of the satiny titanium surface gives the otherwise technical DOT frame a softer character – and a suggestion of

summer.

What are you going to surprise us with next this year? What do you have in your pipeline?

You could just as easily ask: What are you going to surprise yourself with this year? As I mentioned, this year is special because it purposely isn’t all planned out – our ideas are going to show us the way. Spontaneously, creatively, and flexibly. We’re moving ahead confidently and comfortably with new designs with the understanding of what our strengths are. We’re excited for it! Then, so are we.

markus-t.com

»DOT Mono L1062«

»DOT Mono L1061«

»DOT Mono L1063«

Despite their minimalism, LOOL delivers designs that are full of depth and pleasantly understated.

Lool – Sustainable

Eyewear From Barcelona

Pushing Boundaries With Minimalistic Designs And Eco-friendly Materials

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

LOOL is a Barcelona-based independent brand under the umbrella of the Etnia Eyewear Culture Group and it has shaken up the industry with its focus on quality materials, innovative designs, and local craftsmanship. The brand’s philosophy is that minimalistic doesn’t mean simplistic, and they create boundary-pushing designs that are understated but boast complex technology and craftsmanship. All of LOOL’s frames are built in Barcelona and inspired by the city’s forms, concepts, and contemporary architecture. Even landmarks like Parc Güell or Sagrada Familia find expression in the eyewear concepts of LOOL

Sustainability is one of LOOL’s key values, and the brand is constantly exploring new eco-friendly materials and technologies to create even more sustainable eyewear in the future. The brand’s minimalistic design is functional and lightweight, and their ultra-light glasses weigh in at just 4g. LOOL eyewear uses quality materials such as 11r51 steel, which is stainless, flexible, and robust. The brand offers three multi-faceted ranges with strong but distinct identities.

LOOL is committed to sustainability and has implemented energy-efficient processes in its production facilities, and uses minimal packaging. The brand has taken its commitment to sustainability a step further with its innovative screwless hinge design, which not only creates a sleek and seamless look for the frames but also makes them more durable and long-lasting.

looleyewear.com

»Schwertschlucker«

»Regenmacher«

Einstoffen

EINSTOFFEN is an independent eyewear and fashion label from Switzerland. Known for their love of natural materials and experimental designs, EINSTOFFEN creates for open-minded people with their own ideas. The new styles »Schnapsbrenner«, »Regenmacher« and »Schwertschlucker« prove the Swiss brand’s stylistic competence.

»Schnapsbrenner«

LIGHTBOX

Essentials Vol.I

Face A Face

FACE A FACE is a Parisian design label specializing in unique, highquality eyewear frames. Each pair of glasses has its own personality, defining a unique color palette and resembling small architectural pieces. The brand focuses on feminine styles, emphasizing design, architecture, and art. The new models »Shadow 3«, »Gioco 2«, and »Ashoka 1« reflect the creative vision of FACE A FACE.

»Ashoka 1«

»Gioco 2«

»Shadow 3«

photography RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [ Dusseldorf ]

Barton Perreira

BARTON PERREIRA is known for uncompromising designs and precise craftsmanship. The luxury eyewear brand from Los Angeles uses high-quality materials such as pure Japanese titanium and plantbased acetate and has a strong following, not just in Hollywood. For our shoot, Bill Barton and Patty Perreira sent us the models »Rhea«, »Elvgren« and »Bennie«.

»Rhea«

»Elvgren«

»Bennie«

ic! berlin

IC! BERLIN has long been a pioneer in screwless hinges and urban looks, not only popular among celebrities in the German capital. The new styles »Nadea«, »Mea« and »MB 11« can now also be tried on virtually. Simply scan the QR code.

»MB 11«

»Mea«

»Nadea«

Mykita

MYKITA is synonymous with "Made in Berlin Eyewear," globally known for its innovative designs and lifestyle communication. The brand has collaborated with many renowned designers and brands. For our still-life shoot, the Berlinbased company sent us the new models »SURI«, »NIKEN« and »NIAM«.

»NIKEN«

»NIAM«

»SURI«

Klenze & Baum

KLENZE & BAUM, located in Munich’s Glockenbachviertel, specializes in 3D-printed glasses. The glasses –including the new models »Nova Ash«, »Bary Peanut«, and »Akira Moss« – are individually made in an "on-demand" process and can be perfectly customized in size and color for the customer.

»Nova«

»Bary«

»Akira«

Lunor

LUNOR, a German eyewear manufacturer based in the Black Forest, specializes in classic and simple designs that Steve Jobs appreciated. Not only the »Classic Round«, but also the new models »C1 02«, »M6 04«, and »A6 244« are design statements and have high evergreen potential.

»C1 02«

»M6 04«

»A6 244«

Masunaga

MASUNAGA represents traditional Japanese craftsmanship like no other eyewear label. The 200 steps required for each model, using only the best materials such as hand-polished acetate and pure titanium, are evident in the new highlights »K Alya«, »Lenox« and »One Hundred«.

»One Hundred«

»Lenox«

»K Alya«

Metropolitan

METROPOLITAN, a German label, is inspired by the Bauhaus movement and the art cinema of the 1920s. Unique dyeing methods and high-quality finishes are typical for the models –this also applies to the new styles »8113«, »8281«, and »8112«, which we have chosen for our shoot. Try them on now online at FAVR.

»8281«

»8113«

»8112«

Miga Studio

MIGA STUDIO creates unique futuristic designs as a perfect match of Japanese craftsmanship and Italian authenticity. The new styles »Cosmopolis«, »Rider, and »Turbo« are first-class design pieces and are likely to make it to the catwalks of the world, and find much favor among fashion insiders.

»Turbo«

»Cosmopolis«

»Rider«

Nathalie Blanc

NATHALIE BLANC injects her own spirit into her eponymous French designer label. The result is trendy, high-quality, and timeless elegant designs, which are also reflected in the models »Dominique«, »Brice«, and »Valentine« made from highquality cellulose acetate.

»Dominique«

»Brice«

»Valentine«

Raen

RAEN, a California-based eyewear brand, is rooted in an authentic surf and lifestyle history. The brand combines high-quality materials with solid craftsmanship in their new models, including »Naiven«, »Neese« and »Marin II«, creating timeless designs that make us feel the ocean waves of the American Pacific coast.

»Neese«

»Marin II«

»Naiven«

Silhouette

SILHOUETTE is best known for their lightweight and comfortable glasses made of titanium and SPX materials. Rimless models hold a special place in the Austrian manufacturer’s collections. However, the SILHOUETTE designers also prove their ability to create strong sunglass shapes with the »Cadaques 8191«, »Begur 8740«, and »Bogatell 8739« models.

»Cadaques 8191«

»Begur 8740«

»Bogatell 8739«

FR OM TO

TOR ONTO MARR AKECH

Nirvan Javan Highlights From Two Collections

NIRVAN JAVAN stays true to its #seetheworld concept with eyewear collections named after cities around the world and inspired by its cultural characteristics. Last year, the Swiss brand stopped in Toronto and launched a sublime sunglasses collection. This year, the journey continues for the Swiss brand – heading southeast across the Atlantic to Marrakech. NIRVAN JAVAN releases the first collection from Africa, diving deep into the

colors, scents and multicultural vibrancy of the Moroccan city.

Toronto meets Marrakech – in our photo shoot we bridge the gap between these two worlds and stage highlights from both collections: Sunglasses from the Toronto collection and optical glasses from the Marrakech collection. We talk to Nirvan about the special features of the two lines, but also about what unites the two collections.

photography PIETRO GROFF [ Berlin ]

styling DAVOR JELUSIC at LIGANORD assistant DEN SADOVOY hair & make-up IVANA ZORIC assistant SINAN SALIHOVIC models YOON at TAKE3MGMT & KATALIN at IZAIO

MARRAKECH

(WET)«

MARRAKECH »03:02 (WET)« -

MARRAKECH

»06:12 (WET)«

-

Hi Nirvan, we feature products from different collections in our shoot: Toronto and Marrakech . Why does that work well?

It is NIRVAN JAVAN’s cosmopolitan credo to show the modern world in its openness and versatility. Today in particular, cultures are coming together in an intensity and number like never before in history. They collide with each other and create something completely new in the process of exchange. It is a symbiosis of cultures. That’s why the brand sees Toronto and Marrakech as part of one big entity rather than two entirely different entities. You already launched the Toronto sunglasses last year. What distinguishes

dress QS BY S.OLIVER

NIRVAN JAVAN

»05:14

shirt MASSIMO DUTTI

shirt MASSIMO DUTTI

the products in this collection?

The motto "Diversity, our strength" is not only the guiding principle of the Canadian city, but also the motif behind the entire Shades of Toronto collection. The powerful, uncompromising individuality of the city fills the frames of these models. Thus, the same energy can be found in the new frames of this collection. This time, however, they are expanded in their richness of detail.

Marrakech is a new collection release this year. What made you decide to include the North African city in your #seetheworld tour schedule?

With lines like the London collection,

Shades of Toronto and Tokyo collection, the brand found itself in Europe, North America and Asia. Driven by the cosmopolitan credo of showcasing the modern, open world, the Marrakech collection now takes us to the African continent for the first time. Moreover, it is also NIRVAN JAVAN’s first point of contact with the Arab world. So, with each collection, the picture of a multifaceted, symbiotic and ever-changing world is completed.

To what extent are cultural features from the city of Marrakech reflected in the designs?

If you have ever walked through the

bazaars of Marrakech, you will probably remember the mountains of spices when you see the Marrakech collection – blue, yellow and red pile up on the market stalls. The arches of the buildings made of mud bricks swing artfully above them.

Be it in the colors, or the shapes of the frames, the temples and the patterns embedded in them, you can experience Marrakech in them.

In the Marrakech collection we find optical glasses, in the Toronto collection they are sunglasses. Actually, one would have expected it rather the other way around due to the climatic conditions.

Quite the opposite. At first, you might

NIRVAN JAVAN MARRAKECH »02:10 (WET)« -

cardigan GANT shirt ASKET

imagine Toronto as a snow-covered metropolis, but when you walk through the streets of the city, the picture changes. The sun shines down through the cloud-covered sky, along the facades of the skyscrapers. This special experience is thus reflected in the photochromic glasses of the Shades of Toronto. It is a similar story with the Marrakech collection. The omnipresent, colorful power of the city gave the perfect premise for an optical collection. It is the individual experiences that bring a collection to life.

In our shoot, we photographed the products quite close, because that’s how the translucent colors of NIRVAN JAVAN come into their own. What makes your colors so special?

Strong, expressive colors are very important to NIRVAN JAVAN. For this reason, the frames of both collections are made of Japanese acetate. In meticulous manual work, the frames receive their strong colors, which can hardly be represented by any other acetate. In NIRVAN JAVAN’s case, of course, this is of particular value, as each color illuminates a part of a city’s character.

Will there be another stop this year as part of your #seetheworld campaign?

NIRVAN JAVAN is on a stylistic journey around the world. Every year, two metropolises experience their rebirth as eyeglass frames. I already mentioned at the beginning which stations the brand has already been to. Paris, London, Chicago, Stockholm, Tokyo and now Toronto and Marrakech. But that's just the beginning. The cultural diversity of our planet is almost limitless, and so are the destinations that are waiting to be visited by us. So there is still every reason to be excited about the rest of the year.

We are curious to see where the journey will take us.

nirvanjavan.com

NIRVAN JAVAN SHADES OF TORONTO »07:24:13

(EST)«

top & pants ADRIANE LILA FECKE

SHADES OF TORONTO

»06:18:09 (EST)«

SHADES OF TORONTO »10:26:13 (EST)«

SHADES OF TORONTO

»08:16:07 (EST)« -

dress REMAIN BIRGER CHRISTENSEN

SHADES OF TORONTO

(EST)«

»10:20:15

- jacket S.OLIVER

LINDBERG »Eric«

»5534«

»5537«

LINDBERG»Femke«

»8810«

The Little Things Lindberg Introduces Modular Designs Tailored for Small Faces

Scandinavian eyewear brand LINDBERG is known for its minimalist designs and use of high-quality materials. Now, the Danish powerhouse has expanded their collection with a range of small-framed models designed specifically for smaller faces. The brand’s modularity principle allows for tailor-made eyewear to be personalized and adjusted to all faces, rather than having a one-size-fits-all product. This is made possible by an intelligent system that creates unique eyewear through endless combinations of colors, shapes, sizes and materials.

The new range of designs, introduced for spring 2023, includes several new models that are specifically tailored to smaller faces. These include the »1055« small and bold geometric panto frame in acetate, the »1183«

geometric cateye with a delicate semitransparent acetate front, and the »1054« classic round panto acetate model. There are also aviator-style frames such as the »5537« with a small front for everyday wear, and timeless squared sunglasses like the »8592« and classic rectangle sunglasses like the »8593« with acetate fronts.

LINDBERG’s modular system allows for a perfect fit by adjusting temple inclination, width of clips, width of nose bridge, and the length and shape of the nose pad arms. The result is a finely tuned pair of glasses that complement the wearer’s unique facial features. The brand’s comprehensive modular system is the most extensive in the world, providing an unimaginable number of options to create perfectly fitted eyewear.

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Iconic temple hinges have always been eye-catching in LINDBERG collections.

Virtually try on LINDBERG

The new small-framed models are a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation and personalization, allowing customers to find the perfect eyewear that fits their individual style and facial features. Whether you prefer bold geometric shapes or understated drama, LINDBERG’s new range of small-framed models has something for everyone.

LINDBERG’s design ethos is centered around simplicity, with a focus on doing things exceptionally well or not at all – and everything seems to go according to plan here.

lindberg.com

LINDBERG»8593«

ETNIA BARCELONA

»Brutal No. 15«

SEEING SIGHT

REIZ »Bernstein«dress ZARA bag ESPRIT

photography DIANE BETTIES [ Barcelona ] hair & make-up EMILIANO RICCARDI styling DAVOR JELUSIC models MARIA at AVANT MODELS & SOFIA at TWO MANAGEMENT

SILHOUETTE

»Purist with Color Groove

5561 MW«

trench coat WEDU

top ZARA

WE ARE BOLD

Look | New Collection & New Campaign

LOOK has more than 40 years of history to look back on as a brand. The result of their decades of experience is a high product quality and the kind of reliability that makes it tempting to stick to tried and tested successes. Despite that, the Italian brand is still breaking new ground and rebranding itself. The concept for 2023 is based on their campaign motto NOI (we). The products of the Bold collection, which we were able to stage in this collection shoot, reflect this, as we explored in our interview with Head of Marketing Marco de Fina.

Hello Marco, LOOK has been a top Italian eyewear brand for decades. What distinguishes the brand from its competitors?

LOOK is a brand that, from the very beginning, wanted to bring an avantgarde vision that united style and technique to the eyewear market. An evolved vision of the product to really meet the wearer’s needs – from the perfect fit to the lightness of the product. It’s designed for prolonged everyday use. Our focus on quality along with our dedication to ethical production has always distinguished us from other brands. We practice what we preach. You’ve already creatively realigned yourselves in the last two years. Now, you are rebranding yourself. What does that look like?

Rather than a rebranding I’d rather call it a natural evolution of our brand. In an increasingly competitive market, it’s important to be more incisive – more direct. LOOK is evolving to find a new approach to the market in terms of design, communication, and image. We’re incorporating a cooler edge, but without losing the now famous and established aspects of the way we produce our frames.

So, you're doing away with “Made in Italia” in the brand, but domestic production remains a basic constant at LOOK, doesn’t it? Absolutely! Our production is 100 percent Italian and always will be. We just wanted to be more direct and incisive. “Made in Italia” is one of our values, but it’s certainly not the only one. Because of this, we are switching our focus to talk about LOOK as a much bigger symbol to represent our values, ethics, corporate philosophy, vision and mission. We’ll still always emphasize “Made in Italia” in a dedicated section for our established customers and for everyone who wants to get to know us.

Have the basic values and philosophy of

LOOK changed in any way?

No, or rather, they are even stronger than before. LOOK’s core value is family. We produce frames ranging from the kids segment to adults – representing the whole family. That also truly represents the type of company we are – one that is family-owned. The owners of LOOK are the Tormen Family, now in their second generation. We’ve stayed true to the values that have made us successful over these 40 years, such as customer care and innovation, and we will carry those forward.

This year, you are putting the company itself at the center of your campaign – NOI. What is behind this?

Thank you for this question, this new image is something we really like to talk about. You’re absolutely right, it does put the company front and center! The company is the people, NOI (we) – all the employees of LOOK. Of course, people also includes our customers, our end users. NOI puts people at the center and does so with a modern yet also simple style.

For our collection shoot, you sent us four models from the Bold collection. The name suggests striking styles, yet the individual models are quite wearable. What distinguishes the Bold collection?

These four models represent a new LOOK milestone. The volume of the frames lends them a certain importance without giving up the unmistakable and recognized lightness of our product. They feature a cool design that brings a sense of novelty to our sample collection while carrying forward an already established product by LOOK – the famous NILs What materials do you work with in this collection?

Our materials are definitely a strong point. In this collection we use a combination of our NIL, the injection molding technopolymer and XINOX, our steel that is 30 percent more flexible than traditional steel without sacrificing its natural strength.

Another special feature is the campaign’s color concept. What is special about it?

Color in this collection is strongly linked to the modern tastes of the adult, mature consumer – one who is secure in his choices. At the same time, it is a versatile product in the sense of the color rendition that NIL allows. That gave us the opportunity to refine our colors for cooler matte tones and more elegant glossy effects. It truly is a new product! We also proposed a special color for each model, featuring color asymmetry in the temples. Here, one is colored with a bright hue and the other, together with the front, is completely matte black. It adds a touch of diversity that gives the frame a cool and modern look.

lookocchiali.it

BOLD »4967«jacket BOSS

ARCHITECTURAL, GLOWY AND UNIQUE... discover our new shapes.

Classics Reinvented Blackfin Pacific –The Best Of Two Worlds

With its new Pacific collection, BLACKFIN manages to unite the elegance of classical design with contemporary minimalist modernism. The collection’s titanium frames perfectly encapsulate the brand’s singular and timeless style.

The pacific ocean unites two cultures and two different worlds. The Pacific collection is an analogue for two very different interpretations of eyewear design in the 1940s. Originating in Japan, the style was adapted and developed further in California before quickly spreading across the globe. BLACKFIN has updated these classic designs, adding a more modern touch. The result is a slim frame that exudes timeless elegance. The new series perfectly embodies the technical competence and style that characterizes the Italian brand.

BLACKFIN Pacific is made from a single, 3mm thick block of titanium to ensure the frame’s long-term durability. The frame is slightly beveled despite the high tech material, which gives it a uniquely soft appearance that can’t be replicated mechanically.

Pacific »Mojave«

BLACKFIN Pacific »Big Sur«

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

BLACKFIN Pacific doesn’t use any welds, except for those needed to attach the nose pads. These are made of a very flexible and adaptive material that ensure a perfect Asian fit. Additionally, the patented Swordfish Temple Tips allow for quick and easy adjustments to the temples. That, in turn, ensures a comfortable fit for wearers with any face shape.

This innovative series includes three models, each of which offers a retro-modern interpretation of the iconic designs of this classical Japanese style. As a panto design, Pacific »Big Sur« features clean, timeless lines, while Pacific »Sierra« offers beveled edges to provide a more modern look. In contrast, Pacific »Mojave« has a rounded, square design with a more classical feel to it.

The collection’s gorgeous color options reflect its overall style with glossy and matt colors, enamel accents paired with polished metal and an aging technique that really showcases the extraordinary technical skills that BLACKFIN applies in its production processes.

blackfin.eu

BLACKFIN Pacific »Sierra«

Etnia Barcelona – Rooted in Art and Culture

Sustainable, Ethical and Highly Colorful

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

ETNIA BARCELONA »Brutal No. 2 Sun«

»Kate«

»Tatiana«

The Catalan fashion label masters the art of stylishly showcasing colors and shapes.

Every industry insider knows that ETNIA BARCELONA has gained a reputation for its bold and colorful designs. The brand is known for breaking the mold of traditional eyewear by incorporating unique and playful elements into its frames. ETNIA BARCELONA’s eyeglasses are not just functional, but a form of self-expression. Their inspiration comes from art and culture, with a touch of irreverence that distinguishes it from others in the market. The frames are often combined with everyday objects in their advertising campaigns, creating a unique and playful effect that is hard to ignore.

In addition to their innovative designs, ETNIA BARCELONA is committed to using sustainable materials and ethical practices. Their frames are made of 100% natural acetate, a material that allows the brand to create exclusive colors and shades. The lenses are made of pure mineral glass from Barberini, with HD Colors Technology that enhances color perception. ETNIA BARCELONA’s commitment to sustainability extends beyond their use of natural raw materials. The brand has partnered with the ETNIA BARCELONA Foundation for social projects, which supports initiatives in education, health, and culture.

ETNIA BARCELONA’s heritage spans three generations of eyewear craftsmanship, beginning with Fulgencio Ramo in the 1950s. David Pellicer, the current owner of the company, joined in the 1990s with a vision to create something new and exciting. In 2001, ETNIA BARCELONA was born as an independent eyewear brand that embraced the values of freedom, humanity, and multiculturalism. The brand’s commitment to quality has remained unchanged, with each frame carefully crafted and inspected to meet their high standards. Just like its brainchild LOOL, ETNIA BARCELONA is one of the recent additions to the FAVR platform.

etniabarcelona.com

CONSULTANT

ETNIA BARCELONA

Kennedy«

EINSTOFFEN »Hütchenspieler«

dress IVY OAK pants FILIPPA K shoes VAGABOND

dress JOSEPH

FLEYE »Josefine«vest GANNI top JOSEPH skirt KHAITE

CAROLINE ABRAM

CAROLINE ABRAM

»Kimy« -

coat IVY OAK

blouse FILIPPA K

skirt MIAOU

boots JIL SANDER

-

RODENSTOCK

»R 5364«

top LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN

tights FALKE

earrings JANE KØNIG

rings JANE KØNIG & SASKIA DIEZ

BLACKFIN

photography ULRICH HARTMANN [ Berlin ]

hair & make-up LYDIA CASTEJON

styling JAKOB SCHAEFER

models LORENA DIEM at MUNICH MODELS & ALEXANDER STOLLER at PLACE MODELS

THE BLUE Virtually try on BLACKFIN FAVRSPECS.COM

BLACKFIN is increasingly establishing itself in the premium eyewear segment. Originally started as a titanium eyewear specialist relying on masterful craftsmanship, the brand from the Italian Dolomites does not need to shy away from fashionable comparisons these days. The model range includes more and more avant-garde designs, all of which are also likely to feel at home on the catwalk – this is especially true for the sunglasses. But the sunglasses from the SS 2023 collection are not only bold and stylish, the statement pieces also set clear accents on the cover of our current issue.

Sunglasses SS 2023 Collection

BLACKFIN’s brand new sunglasses collection uniquely combines modern style with technical innovation – especially through the exclusive processing of BLACKFIN’s signature material titanium. Through the use of high-tech micromechanical processes, each front is made from a solid 3 mm titanium block. The edge of the fronts is thereby chiseled with micrometer precision to define the elegant, deeper-set lines that decorate

the entire frame. This intricate processing emphasizes the technical character of the collection and gives each model a unique design.

The combination of matte hues and glossy details reflects BLACKFIN’s craftsmanship in coloring, one of the most demanding stages of the manufacturing process, which is performed exclusively by skilled artisans at BLACKFIN ’s Black Shelter. Another stylish detail is the light-

adaptive lenses, which allow the glasses to be worn comfortably in all light conditions – even indoors. All models in the BLACKFIN Sun collection are hypoallergenic, 100% biocompatible and nickel-free. They feature tilting nosepads made of medical grade PVC and adjustable Swordfish temple tips in an ergonomic design.

We staged three models in our cover shoot. The »Wanderlust« is a strong aviator model with chiseled texture along the profile of the front, which is echoed at the transition of the nose bars. The three-dimensional depth of the models is particularly well highlighted by the accentuated color combinations. This model is also available in the Black Edition version with NanoPlating™ treatment in the color Champagne Light Gold and self-tinting lenses in Brown Nano-Plating™ is a patented process in which metal particles are applied to the surface of the glasses atom by atom by sublimation in a vacuum until the desired color effect is achieved.

The »Copeland« model with its teardropshaped lenses is available in three color variations. The harmonious lines of the modern interpretation of an aviator style come in three colorways: Black/Green, Blue/ Silver and Black/Silver. The latter color combo features variable-tint lenses in Smoke Gray

The »Crescent Moon« model sets a confident counterpart to the other two styles. The most striking feature is the large, angular front with its thick rims, which however taper off narrowly in the area of the nose bridge. The feminine model is available with tinted lenses and in contrasting colors for a particularly feminine look.

BLACKFIN »Crescent Moon« -

jacket S.OLIVER

Blackfin One Collection

The new optical BLACKFIN One collection presents itself with innovative design, bright colors and a clear aesthetic concept. Under the umbrella of the BLACKFIN One collection, each model represents a unique style on a new level and once again reflects the creativity of the designer brand. The glasses are characterized by comprehensive conceptual and technical maturity. Unusual shapes and special colors emphasize the

original silhouettes and make each model an eye-catcher. The common denominator in all models is the material, which is processed in different thicknesses.

The »Waterville« model captivates with its iconic shape, milled from a single block of titanium. The different color combinations emphasize the bilayer design. The »Waterville« is also available as an exclusive Black Edition with Nano-Plating™ technology.

BLACKFIN

»Waterville Black Edition«jacket REPLAY

»Brookwood«pullover ECOALF 1.0

The »Auberville« model is based on the same stylistic concept, but in different interpretation. The panto-inspired shape emphasizes the nose bridge and the front, while the rest of the parts are made in new metallic color combinations such as Ochre with Violet, Violet with Brown, Old Pink with Dark Blue or Green in two shades.

The angular, masculine »Dawson« and the unisex »Leesburg« panto glasses are based on a titanium plate that becomes thinner in the lower part of the frame and thicker along the upper profile. Both models have been redesigned with color combinations to emphasize the different levels.

»Rye« is a round glasses par excellence! In Lime Green, Red, Cobalt Blue or Military Green versions, it looks surprisingly different and somehow unique.

blackfin.eu

»Dawson«

-

hat STETSON jumpsuit BRACHMANN

BLACKFIN »Auberville«

blouse GIVN

skirt ESSENTIEL ANTWERP

»Rye«shirt BRACHMANN

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ portraits PORSCHE DESIGN

Passion For Performance Porsche Design

Eyewear by Patrick Dempsey

Inspired by the racetrack. Developed with passion.

PORSCHE DESIGN and brand ambassador Patrick Dempsey are stepping on the gas together and intensifying their collaboration. The actor has been collaborating with PORSCHE DESIGN EYEWEAR since 2021. As an enthusiastic racecar driver, he’s now also collaborating with the exclusive designer brand on a sunglasses and optical eyewear collection. Besides their initials “PD”, they also share a mutual love of motor sports, precision and perfectionism. The exclusive, limited edition PORSCHE DESIGN Eyewear by Patrick Dempsey combines aesthetics and functionality, embodying the values that the two partners share.

A year in development

In April of 2022, Patrick Dempsey and the PORSCHE DESIGN team met in Los Angeles to focus their efforts on the new collection. Together, they discussed different combinations of materials and colors, looking for the best ways to unite functionality and aesthetics. In January 2023, we got to see the results of their hard work. The sunglasses »P’8965« and the optical frames »P’8754« captivate with refined and timeless understatement, that nevertheless makes an unmistakable fashion statement. The unusually sophisticated material that the collection uses – carbon – reflects its motorsports DNA in its purest form.

Noble materials combined with polarizing high-end lenses.

PORSCHE DESIGN »P’8965«

»P’8965«

The optical glasses are a little more restrained in design than the sunglasses models, but anything but boring with their double bridge.

PORSCHE DESIGN

Brand ambassador with passion

»P’8754«

»P’8754«

Passion for performance

The new PORSCHE DESIGN Eyewear by Patrick Dempsey edition is a combination of aesthetics and functionality that embodies the values that brought PORSCHE DESIGN and Patrick Dempsey together: a passion for performance, and the pursuit of perfection. “Porsche has always had a special place in my heart. To me, the brand has always reflected a special kind of passion and performance that I’ve always felt a connection to, whether it’s as a racecar driver or as the owner of a racing team. That’s exactly what I value most about PORSCHE DESIGN as a brand that represents the highest quality and best functionality. To be actively involved in the design and development of an eyewear edition that bears my name is an honor, and something that I’m very excited about. Working with the design experts was really exciting and inspiring,” says Patrick Dempsey.

porsche-design.com

Carbon fiber face-lift

The newly developed temple is made with a combination of carbon fiber, stainless steel and rubber. This gives the frame lightness, aesthetics and a perfect fit. The slim and athletic temple design offers an interesting contrast to the more striking front, which features a distinctive double bridge that brings additional volume into the design. Due to its strength and durability, the innovative material that the temple is made of – Carbon Fiber – guarantees the frame’s performance even under the harshest conditions. “During a race, man and machine are exposed to enormous stresses. The driver always needs to be able to rely 100 percent on his materials, even under the harshest conditions. Because of that, I didn’t want to make any compromises when it came to the quality of the glasses,” the motorsport enthusiast explains.

VISION DRIVE™ Polarized Lenses and VISION DRIVE™ Polarized XTR Lenses

The sunglasses frame »P’8965« features VISION DRIVE™ Polarized Lenses or VISION DRIVE™ Polarized XTR Lenses, which maximize the reduction of reflections and glare on wet and smooth surfaces. Additionally, the high-end VISION DRIVE™ Polarized XTR Lenses feature a unique and innovative combination of polarization and integrated contour- and contrast perception that offers a significant boost to traffic safety.

As in motorsport, carbon fibers provide a lot of lightness.

SIESTA

ETERNA

CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX

»CMS151 LA NICOISE«

dress OBJECT

teddy 4TH & RECKLESS

CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX

»CMS139 L’ELEGANTE«

dress HELENE GALWAS earrings ZARA

BARTON PERREIRA »Devine«

dress BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN necklace THOMAS SABO

BARTON PERREIRA »Coquette«

-

teddy ZARA skirt OBJECT scarf WEAT

Responsibly Made. Remarkably Classic. Raen – Great Styles With A Reduced Ecological Footprint

photos

California has long been a pioneer in the development and application of sustainable technologies. It’s no surprise, then, that RAEN is taking steps to reduce the environmental impact of much of its collection as well. For our current edition, the US surfing and lifestyle brand has sent us glasses from its BIO Collection and Recycled Black

RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

»Phonos«

»Wiley«

RAEN BIO Collection – “Responsibly made. Remarkably classic.” With its newest collection, RAEN is making a clear statement in support of sustainability and environmental consciousness. The well-regarded surfing and lifestyle brand’s Bio Acetate Collection is an homage to nature and makes a clear statement against overconsumption. M49, the bio-acetate used for this collection, is sourced from the Italian manufacturer Mazzucchelli and is better than just biodegradable – it’s also compostable. RAEN focuses on natural materials and renewable sourcing. At the same time, they produce a high-quality product that meets the same standards as traditional acetate.

Enough about that, though. RAEN is taking it one step further by bringing the issue of sustainability to their lenses as well. The models of the BIO Acetate Collection are made with the new Zeiss Sustainable Polyamide lenses. These are partly made with organicbased materials, which ultimately reduces the CO2 emissions generated by the production process by 50% compared to traditional lenses.

This makes RAEN’s Bio Acetate Collection a trailblazer in the development of technology for greater sustainability in the eyewear industry. That the resulting products are just as functional and stylish despite their improved sustainability goes without saying. After all, style is a birthright for Californians – it might as well be coded directly into their DNA.

RAEN »Ynez«

RAEN Recycled Black – “Reducing waste has never been this fashionable”

RAEN is fully committed to sustainability, doubling down with its Recycled Black campaign. As the name suggests, Recycled Black features a brand new acetate that’s made of 100% recycled materials. For this, they use the waste materials of RAEN’s acetate producers to create a rich black acetate.

With this initiative, RAEN is setting a foundation for future growth. Going forward, all black eyewear models will be converted to Recycled Black. In this, the Californian brand supports its larger mission to minimize waste and reduce their impact on the environment. It’s clear from the first drops of this new collection that the new black also delivers in terms of looks. Black, as it turns out, is the new black. raen.eu

RAEN »Cleese« »Nevill«

»Neese«

Sustainability – a topic especially important for RAEN’s target audience.

Hoet Couture –Personalized

High-End Eyewear

3D-printed Titanium Frames For The Fashion-conscious

Hoet is a family of designers and opticians whose history dates back to 1884. The current team, led by Bieke Hoet, has over 30 years of experience designing high-end eyewear for prestigious brands worldwide. The company's premium brand, HOET COUTURE, launched its 3D laser-printed eyeglasses made of titanium in 2014 after four years of research and development.

The frames are made of titanium, with an open structure on the front that varies per model, making it nearly impossible to achieve with traditional production techniques. The glasses are eco-friendly, with almost zero raw material waste.

Avoiding overproduction that cannot be sold later is another environmentally friendly aspect. HOET COUTURE frames are modern, rust-proof, anti-allergenic, light, durable, and well-fitting.

The brand offers 17 models of couture eyeglasses. The models are available in various size combinations for nose and glasses. Each pair of eyeglasses can be personalized with the client’s name engraved on the temple. What sets HOET COUTURE apart from other brands is its 3D print technology, which needs no special tools for different models and sizes. A 3D computer drawing is sufficient, and you only need to

purchase the show model in titanium and a few synthetic dummies in various sizes to determine the best size for your clients. The demand-oriented production eliminates overstocking and reduces the risk of unsold stock.

The Belgian brand’s eyewear is designed to be conspicuously inconspicuous and inconspicuously conspicuous. Quality, style and comfort are fundamental to the brand’s precepts and the mission is to provide customers with personalized eyewear that’s both comfortable and eco-friendly. From now on, selected models from HOET COUTURE can also be virtually tried on at FAVR.

The label HOET COUTURE was founded in 2014 by Bieke Hoet. The design agency HOET DESIGN, which develops eyewear designs for many labels, was already firmly established in the market by then. In the following interview, Bieke talks about her role in the company, the influence of Bruges on her designs and the relationship between HOET DESIGN and HOET COUTURE

Hello Bieke, your company roots back to 1884! Can you tell us really briefly how HOET COUTURE came about?

Of course, it is a long story… In 1973, when I was born, my father started working in the optical shop in Bruges together with his mother who continued the shop after my grandfather passed away at a young age. Many generations of fathers in my family have run optical shops, and the traces of our business go back to 1884. When I and my sisters reached a certain age, my mother joined the shop. In 1989, my parents, both very ambitious, decided to start their own brand, THEO, an anagram of HOET, together with Wim Somers and his wife Jamme. They funded the start-up with the income from their optical shops. At that time, I was still in school and saw their dream come true from a distance. In 1997, my father decided to focus solely on creating designs for THEO, and 26 years later, he is still responsible for a great deal of THEO’s designs. Meanwhile, the Somers family concentrated on building the brand and making it successful worldwide, and the optical shop of HOET was continued by my mother and later by my sister and her husband. With a passion for development and an uncontainable drive for creativity, the eyewear design agency HOET DESIGN was founded in 1997. That

is when I joined my father at the age of 24 and got involved in the creative process. 17 years later, the HOET COUTURE brand is born, launched by the design agency of the same name.

What is your role in the company and what do you do on a daily basis?

In 2020, I took over the HOET EYEWEAR DESIGN company and the HOET COUTURE brand, where nothing has changed except for the fact that I am now the boss. I keep investing in new technologies and materials to feed the HOET COUTURE collection and give it all the opportunities to grow in the right direction, making no concessions on design and maximizing the features of available technologies, materials, and finishes. At the same time, I invest in people who want to be part of this exciting journey and want to help me make this dream come true. I am grateful to be surrounded by talented and committed people.

Bruges is not your average location for an eyewear company. What’s your relationship to the city and how does it influence your designs?

Bruges is a medieval city, also called the Venice of the North. I invite all opticians to come and visit us. Our location is historically grown. I am born and raised in Bruges. My family and friends all live in Bruges. With my parents, I was lucky to discover the world together with their ambitions to grow their business. Today we manufacture our frames in Bruges. It is giving some benefits to have production so close to our offices. However, for the future, I believe in a manufacturing that is close to the location where frames are sold. 3D printing allows this idea. Let’s see what the future brings…

No more avant-garde than this: individual 3D printing in titanium.

Is there such a thing as a typical Belgian eyewear design and do you think HOET COUTURE belongs to it?

A lot of Belgian designers are active in companies worldwide outside our industry. Raf Simons for Prada and previously for Dior, for example. Dirk van Braeckel, known for designing various models for Volkswagen Group, especially for the Bentley brand. A cultural heritage and talent to translate emotions into things we can touch and feel is what makes Belgian design recognizable. This is also my personal goal, and I guess if I may speak for my father, I am pretty confident that he shares this mindset. You’re running both the design agency HOET DESIGN and the brand HOET COUTURE. Conflict of interest or mutual benefit? How do the two fields cross-

pollinate each other?

In the search for new technologies and applications, I find solutions that benefit the styling and vision of HOET COUTURE that targets a group of people that wants to be unobtrusively noticeable. Targeting a different group of people makes us use different tools. Combinations of traditional and new technologies often create new opportunities, and these are not always suitable for the HOET COUTURE brand. As a designer, we are at the beginning of the existence of a product and, therefore, have control over the outcome. It is completely in our own hands to choose for mutual benefit rather than a conflict of interest. I am open to the projects that are challenging, offering added value for the companies we work for. We never stop learning because life never stops

teaching.

You’ve mentioned before that you put in four years of research and development before starting the brand. What was your main focus in that regard? What did you want to get perfectly right?

Limitations stimulate creativity. Just like all technologies, we needed to understand the limitation to find a creative solution on how to make functional glasses with this new technology. For example, how to avoid welded parts, how to reduce subcontractors. Finding out that the perforations allow some flexibility and make it possible to work with an open rim for the lens mounting, that we could build integrated moveable nose pads. These are only a few of the topics that needed a different approach. Ultimately, we figured out how to design intelligently and make

Cross-generational design expertise: Bieke and Patrick Hoet.

eyewear that couldn’t be made any other way.

Your price range is on the upper end. How does that reflect in the way your customers approach your brand and their decisionmaking process?

We have chosen a durable business model. Starting production on demand in different sizes and engraving the name of our customer makes every piece unique. As a result, there is no or almost no unsold stock with us or at the optician. Together with a timeless design, we offer value for money. Buy different, choose less, and make it last. This vision is shared by our opticians and the end-consumer. You focus strongly on 3D-printing as a manufacturing tool. When did you first discover the technology, and why do you like it so much?

I discovered 3D printing in 2010 when I was around 35 years old. It was the first time I saw a technology that makes something by adding material instead of subtracting material. Just like in nature, a tree grows, a product can grow layer by layer. To create one frame, it takes 9 hours to print one frame in 3000 layers, and 5 hours to finish the frame manually. Materials are expanding, printers go faster, and post-process technologies are growing, and this is only the beginning. Adding material to create something means a new freedom of design. Designing eyewear that cannot be made in any other way is the challenge we were willing to take. Maximizing the benefits that this technology is offering. Do you have a particular type of wearer in mind when you design eyeglasses?

The HOET COUTURE wearer is somebody who wants to be unobtrusively noticeable.

How is the 3D-print-based concept received by opticians considering that they basically have no stock from HOET COUTURE and a completely different workflow?

You have to weigh between a one-time investment in a toolbox with a selection of timeless designs that can be amortized over several years, allowing you to realize profits and reduce your inventory risk to zero...

And?

And in a situation where you invest in inventory, some of which you know will never be sold each season, stored in the basement or returned to the supplier with the obligation to place a new order, some of which, again, will never be sold. A fastfashion business model. From a financial point of view, the profit for both situations will be more or less similar. From a socialethical point of view, the on-demand

manufacturing is a strong additional USP for the optician to offer to his consumer. The on-demand manufacturing at a higher price level works perfectly if it is in addition to a selection of small unique designer brands distributed in a traditional way.

Please elaborate on your nice claim: “Conspicuously inconspicuous and inconspicuously conspicuous”. What’s important to you in terms of “conspicuousness”?

I would rather answer differently as inconspicuous leans more towards our own personality and therefore also the wearer of our frames. However, he or she is definitely not boring.

www.hoet.be

A

lot of volume with low weight, thanks to the open structure and the exquisite material.

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Biotate Eyewear with Fashion Attitude

Marc O’Polo 2023 Highlights

In recent years, new materials and manufacturing processes have attracted attention in the design and production of eyewear – sometimes with considerable success. Nevertheless, there are still classics and evergreens that still score points with the wearer today thanks to their material properties and that are indispensable in the displays of opticians. In addition to titanium and horn, this is above all acetate. This premium material has also played a dominant

role in MARC O’POLO’s collections for a long time. Cellulose acetate is produced mainly from cotton and wood materials. The benefits: the material is very durable, temperature resistant, flexible and therefore comfortable to wear over a long period of time. Cellulose acetate has an intense and more aesthetic appearance and allows a wider range of bright and luminous colors than other plastics.

MARC O’POLO has also asked itself

how to preserve the benefits of acetate for the eyewear wearer while reducing its environmental footprint throughout the product lifecycle. The answer at the fashion brand: Biotate!

Biotate is a bio-based acetate that is produced and made from natural and renewable resources, helping to reduce dependence on limited fossil resources and CO2 emissions – all while reducing toxicity. All Biotate production takes place in the

MARC O’POLO »506195«

»505111«

»506197«

company’s own factory, from granules to finished acetate sheet.

But it’s not just in production that the sustainable models score with tremendous advantages; even after the glasses have been used, for example, they are also biodegradable. The material decomposes over time through the action of biological organisms and processes, reducing overall waste. Biotate can be broken down into nontoxic components and returns to the natural

environment through decomposition. Biotate also produces much less greenhouse gas than petroleum-based plastic products.

It remains to be mentioned that MARC O’POLO does not have to compromise on color with Biotate either. Most colors work without restrictions even with the bio-based acetate. The dyeing process is carried out with pigments based on vegetable oil. Biotate also gives MARC O’POLO designers a free hand when it comes to the design

language, as the styles of the models we have staged impressively demonstrate. 3-dimensional designs, such as the cateyeshape of »506195«, can be realized just as well with Biotate as material mixes, such as the model »505111« shown here.

eschenbach-eyewear.com

Pure or in material mix: Biotate is the bio-based acetate of MARC O’POLO

Do Good And Talk About It Bizz Talk With PR Specialist

Silvia Boccardi

photo MICHELE MASCALZONI

In our Behind the Scenes column, we usually talk to eyewear designers and brand founders. This time, our interviewee is not involved in the process of creating eyewear. Rather, through her work, she contributes to the interesting stories of brands being read and images being looked at. An interview with PR Consultant Silvia Boccardi, Senior Account and PR Team Coordinator at Zed_Comm

Hi Silvia, I'm always happy to talk with you. This time even more, because we're not talking – as usual – about brands and products, but about you.

Oh dear.

You live in the northern part of Italy. Is that a good location for what you do?

I live in Venice – on the mainland, which for those who know it has a charm quite different from the island! But I come from a small town in the Alps, a few km from Switzerland. My mountain origins are still very strong in me, but the place where I live now has won me over because it is surrounded by beauty. It is a perfect starting point to reach other places. For a nomadic spirit like mine, who can never stay still, it is like being able to live in so many different places all the time.

You specialize in public relations in the eyewear segment. How did you get into PR in the first place?

It was partly by chance, partly by destiny. Fresh from my degree in Languages with a thesis on communication, I answered a job advertisement looking for people to organize training courses. It wasn’t really what I had studied for, but I thought it could be a starting point. The truth is that I never started organizing training courses, but the person who interviewed me referred me to a friend who had a very small communications agency. I started with the press office, my first client was Mido, then I moved on to one of the biggest eyewear companies and for over 10 years now I have been back in a PR agency with Zed_Comm. We can say that destiny made me wear glasses and I have never taken them off.

The term PR is not really tangible for many people. What exactly is behind it? I would like to immediately dispel a wrong idea ... PR does not just mean events where you have a lot of chats over cocktails and finger food. It’s about relationships, yes, that are built and cultivated through constant work made up of knowledge, curiosity, research, but also respect and loyalty. The great thing

is that this work leaves a lot of room for creativity and can be different every day, with also a lot of fun!

The field of work is much more complex than one might think at first.

You must study the customer you are going to work with, understand what their needs are, sometimes help them understand their potential. Often you must hold their hand to help them understand what tools are needed to get the 'visibility' they want. This is constant seed work to achieve lasting results. Clearly, it depends on the case, but there is little point in the wow effect alone; it risks becoming a meteor that will fade away if there is no strategy behind it. For a successful collaboration, it is necessary to create a relationship of mutual trust, where our figure is seen as a consultant, not as a service supplier.

You mentioned visibility for your customer. Which channels do you prefer?

All communication channels are valid. It depends on the results you want to achieve and who your interlocutors are. I started when the fax was still in use and nowadays, the means to reach journalists are almost no longer email or telephone but social chat! Therefore, the messages must be adapted to the tools, but I always say that one must never lose the human component: this is what success is all about.

I know that your work often goes beyond just communication and that you are also involved in the creation of creative content. What exactly do you do in this area?

I like to think of myself as the last link in a value chain. The gear that makes sure that the work of so many other people can be brought to the forefront through my work. I could never achieve a beautiful result if the tools I am given were not beautiful. And I feel a lot of responsibility for this, to gratify the work of others and to feel gratified at the same time. It is the luck of doing a team job because together we share the efforts and multiply the success and satisfactions.

But that’s already classic marketing, isn’t it?

No, it is not classic marketing. In my work, there are no schemes or theories, there is vision, intuition, empathy, kindness, patience and lots and lots of experience. And then there is the ability to communicate with words, whether spoken or written. You must have a deep respect for words and carefully choose which ones to use. This is a general rule in life and especially in my job. Which part of your work is the most exciting for you?

When I realize that my contribution was really part of a successful project. I am very emotional, I tend to be stubborn and headstrong, I always question myself and take every task to heart. When I run out of steam or am over the limit, I stop for a moment and ask myself what is the real ‘value’ of my work as I tell myself that I don't save lives. True, but I do contribute to telling good stories and to the appreciation of the work of so many people, and that has value too. I deeply believe in teamwork, and in this I am very lucky, both in the past and now at Zed_Comm, I work with a group of colleagues with whom great synergy has been created.

You have specialized in “eyewear”. What appeals to you about the optical industry, and what makes it special?

What makes “eyewear” special to me is seeing that in such a small product, there can be so much creativity combined with research and history. If you think about it, every brand is born with its own story; it can be a solid history that comes from the past, and you must be good at always being able to tell it as it evolves, a casual intuition or a passion on which a project is born. There are very and many different stories, and they are all fascinating! Glasses are a cultural and trend phenomenon that characterizes the different years in a transversal way from fashion to design. They are a powerful means of communication in telling the story of who wears them

The large number of brands is certainly an

opportunity for a PR specialist. However, advantages rarely come alone. What are the downsides of the optical industry?

I was lucky to work both in a large multinational and for several smaller companies. This has allowed me to have a fairly complete vision of the eyewear sector. If the objective is the same – to increase visibility – the tools and messages are very different. The dynamics, compared to 20 years ago, have changed a lot. I would be lying if I did not recognize the importance of having budgets to communicate, but that is not enough.

But, what is necessary?

Sometimes, the difficult thing is to make people understand that just being present through advertising in magazines, websites or social media is not enough to increase sales or open new markets, and this alone is not a communication strategy. It is only one part of it. Getting results takes time and consistency. One should not aspire to emulate another company simply because ‘you see it everywhere’. One must be aware of one’s own means and understand the identity of one's own company and product. I am for the policy of small, reasoned steps; a budget is not enough to be successful!

You have several brands as customers in the eyewear segment. Doesn’t that bring with it conflicts?

None of the brands I work with is in conflict because they all have their own identity. You have to be able to go beyond the mere product. If you think about it, there are so many women in the world, similar to me in physical appearance, character or attitude, but no one is the same because each one has her own personality and her own story. Here, the same thing applies to glasses. After all, anyone who only sees a front and two temples could not do this job. This is to say that there is no conflict, I feel I am a bit part of the team of each company I work with.

What was the most beautiful eyewear

campaign you have been involved in so far?

Once I was told that I have a big heart, I keep all my favorites there, for different reasons.

As an Italian, you were born with good taste. You see more glasses every day than almost anyone else. Share your expertise with us: what makes a good pair of glasses?

Let us remember that glasses are worn on the face, protect the eyes and touch the skin. I will never stop underlying the concept of quality regardless of any aesthetic connotation. On this I am uncompromising. The aesthetic aspect then is absolutely subjective. What makes them ‘good’ is that they must be comfortable and make us feel good. If it is true that you can talk with your eyes, well, with glasses you can tell a whole story! When I meet someone who wears glasses, I try to find out what brand they are and imagine why he chose that particular frame. Sometimes I even ask it! Personally, I don’t follow any fashion, I don’t prefer one material to another, I simply let myself be won over by the model and... by the physical contact! The material feeling of things has a great fascination for me. Books, for example, can only be read by flipping through the pages. No technology!

Are there different rules for sunglasses? The same applies to sunglasses. But let’s say that if they don’t have ophthalmic lenses you can choose a more extravagant model because you don’t have to wear them all the time. I instinctively choose the ones that strike me, even if I don’t always wear them. I have bought very unusual, eccentrically designed glasses because I fell in love with them, but then I was unable to wear them because they were too heavy or not very comfortable. Or simply because I didn’t feel ‘myself’ with them.

What are your three current favorite models, without which you do not go out of the house?

Three? Impossible!!!

shirt JJXX, shoes MANGO, top & pants JEME

shirt JJXX, shoes GANT, top & pants JEME

TO GO MILES

shirt JJXX, dress MANGO, pants JEME

MOREL

»Daphné 90020C«skirt & blazer JEME

LUNOR »M10 05«shirt JJXX, dress MANGO

LINDBERG »1849«shirt & dress MANGO, tie ASOS, socks H&M, shoes GANT

SILHOUETTE »Calella 8190«blazer & skirt JEME

Blackfin

Italian eyewear brand BLACKFIN has been crafting premium titanium eyewear with expert craftsmanship since 1971. Founded by Maria Pramaor in Agordo, Italy, the brand has a rich heritage in producing handmade frames from various materials before shifting to titanium frames in 1991. BLACKFIN’s commitment is reflected in their coined term #neomadeinitaly –and in the latest titanium models: »Rye«, »Deauville« and »Auberville«. They are embodying the brand’s dedication to exceptional design and quality craftsmanship.

ELEMENTS

»Rye«

»Auberville«

»Deauville«

ELEMENTS

Colibris

As the SPECTR reader knows, COLIBRIS has been crafting high-quality glasses for over 20 years. The brand was founded by optician Susanne Reckzeh and her husband Wolfgang, and today it is led by their daughter Elena Reckzeh-Gogoll. COLIBRIS is renowned for its clear, Nordicinspired design and commitment to quality. Continuing this legacy, the brand presents some of their latest models: »Emily«, »Benita«, and »Edda«. These models highlight COLIBRIS’ dedication to creating glasses that perfectly fit small faces.

Photography & set design NOCERA & FERRI [ London ]

retouch LAURA CAMMARATA

»Emily«

»Edda«

»Benita«

Dieter Funk

DIETER FUNK is a premium eyewear brand from Germany that was founded by Dieter Funk in the early 1990s. The brand is known for their handmade eyewear, which is crafted in a workshop in Kinsau, Bavaria, using traditional techniques and recycled acetate. The eyewear production process involves around 170 steps. As a proud showcase of their exceptional eyewear, DIETER FUNK introduces their latest models: »Altan Khan«, »Min Rim«, and »Faith«.

»Min Rim«

»Faith«

»Altan Khan«

Fleye

FLEYE is a Danish independent eyewear brand that combines classic, pared-down aesthetics with bold, unconventional designs. Their eyewear is driven by curiosity and crafted with innovative solutions and sublime craftsmanship. FLEYE’s frames, such as the »Nicoline«, »Cecilie« and »Jeppe« here, are consistent with Scandinavian design, expertly blending urban impulses with classic simplicity.

»Jeppe«

»Cecilie«

»Nicoline«

Götti

GÖTTI has been a leader in premium eyewear for 25 years, thanks to the combination of Swiss craftsmanship and innovative design. The brand’s commitment to simplicity, reduction, and authenticity is embodied in every pair of eyewear they produce, crafted with precision and care using high-quality materials. GÖTTI has become one of the most influential names in Europe’s independent eyewear industry. The models presented here are showcasing the brand’s dedication to quality and innovation.

»Aiza«

»Löwe«

»Lynch«

Hoffmann Natural Eyewear

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR is a German brand committed to creating high-quality eyewear using sustainable materials. Established in 1978, the brand is known for its expertise in using horn, wood, silk, alpaca hair, buckhorn, gold, and titanium in their eyewear. HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR frames are designed with a focus on craftsmanship and enhancing the wearer’s natural beauty. Eyewear frames such as the »2272«, »2345«, and »2260« showcase the perfect blend of style and sustainability.

»2260«

»2345«

»2272«

J.F. Rey

Founded in 1995 by Jean-François and Joelle Rey, the creative force behind J.F. REY, the brand has become an expert in metal, acetate, 3D printing, and color design, with a unique DNA that’s reflected in every detail of their eyewear, from innovative styles to unexpected materials. With a wide range of eyewear options available, including the models pictured here, J.F. REY continues to push the boundaries of design and craft timeless pieces that are both elegant and original.

»JF3039 4248«

»JF3041 0024«

»JF3036 2798«

Markus T

MARKUS T is a German eyewear brand known for its technical ingenuity and devotion to design. With models like the »DOT Mono L1059«, »Mio P1035« and »DOT Mono L1056« it showcases its expertise in the creation of durable and comfortable eyewear. That includes using patented hinge systems and dyeing processes for titanium while manufacturing exclusively in Germany. As a result, the brand has become synonymous with quality craftsmanship, innovation, and an unwavering pursuit of excellence.

»DOT Mono L1056«

»Mio P1035«

»DOT Mono L1059«

Morel

With a rich heritage dating back to 1880 when it was founded by Jules Morel in the French region of Jura, the family-owned eyewear brand MOREL has built a reputation for its innovative and stylish eyewear designs, including the iconic »Cleopatra« and »Tydée« frames, and now introduces its latest eyewear models, »90039C Cauvain«, »90040C Aime«, and »40219N Nomad«, which embody the brand’s enduring values and commitment to excellence.

»90040C Aime«

»40219N Nomad«

»90039C Cauvain«

Reiz

The German independent eyewear company REIZ, with 25 years of experience, combines traditional craftsmanship with modern production technology to create high-quality eyewear using premium materials such as acetate and aluminum. The brand is located in a small town in the German Jura, prioritizing sustainability and collaborating with local partners to keep supply chains short. The models pictured here are showcasing the brand’s sophisticated design and manufacturing techniques.

»Lotte Unique«

Sashee Schuster

SASHEE SCHUSTER, the German eyewear brand founded by the eponymous designer and her husband, combines a passion for sustainable, high-quality eyewear with a unique artistic vision, incorporating natural ingredients and vintage styling into handcrafted acetate frames. The latest frames, »Lotte Unique«, »Ophelia«, and »Charlotte«, embody the brand’s ethos and dedication to timeless, feminine designs that stand out in a crowded market.

»Ophelia«

»Charlotte«

BLACKFIN »Copeland«