g12.01 2022 by nustobaydo

FESTIVE FEAST Easy meals for instant happiness

BAVIAANSKLOOF Tall tales on the stoep of Babes se Winkel

SIMON’S TOWN

Where to ﬁnd the penguins… and the best ﬁsh & chips!

ISRAEL BY HILUX Not your average camping trip!

YOUR JOURNEY STARTS HERE DECEMBER 2021/ JANUARY 2022

0 West Coast 6 weekend escapes

Wild Coast holiday hideaways

R90 (VAT incl.) Namibia N$90

KOGELBERG Hike over a mountain in bloom GIFT GUIDE Our pick of outdoor prezzies HECTIC! Cat ﬁght in a Kgalagadi camel thorn – p114

#179

CONTENTS December 2021 & January 2022

#179

FEATURES 32 COLUMN: VELLIES

“I wonder how many pairs are walking around the country right now? More than the number of K-Way down jackets? More than the number of people who have been vaccinated?”

34 BAVIAANSKLOOF

TOAST COETZER

“Gustav looks like a farmer: leather boots, rugby shorts, two-tone shirt with a cellphone and a pen in the pocket. But he’s actually a shopkeeper. Well, he is now. The turquoise house borders his shop, which is right next to the only road through the kloof.”

40 WILD COAST

We travelled the Wild Coast from south to north, looking for fun places to stay. Family hotels, quiet campsites, quirky backpacker lodges…

52 WEST COAST

Six top escapes for a weekend full of fynbos and waves.

118 TRAVEL JOURNAL: ISRAEL

“It’s an eye-opening place to visit; rewarding and complex. For every picturesque photographic moment, there’s another sight that boggles the mind and breaks the heart.”

COVER PICTURE GALLO/GETTYIMAGES.COM Hole-in-the-Wall, Wild Coast

52 West Coast

SHELLEY CHRISTIANS

CONTENTS

REGULARS 8 ED’S LETTER 22 CHECK THIS

Hike the Oudebosch-Harold Porter trail in the mountains behind Betty’s Bay – it will become your new favourite!

24 UPFRONT

96 SIMON’S TOWN

14 LETTERS

Food

96 Simon’s Town

Night Watch – 26 View from Here – 28 Books – 30

60 TAKE YOUR PIC

A pearl-spotted owlet on the hunt, bontebok locked in battle, a 4x4 route to the middle of nowhere… These reader photos rock.

66 PORTFOLIO

Sharks, shipwrecks and shorelines… We showcase some of the ﬁnalists in the annual Underwater Photographer of the Year competition.

76 GEAR

110 BACK IN THE DAY

The trials and tribulations of “Piet Vis se bus”, which took a bunch of students across South Africa in the 1990s.

112 KIDS’ PAGE

Can you tell one shark from another? Get to know these razor-toothed ﬁsh.

114 WITH MY OWN EYES

Crazy cat ﬁght in a Kgalagadi camel thorn tree.

126 BIRDS

82 FOOD

128 CROSSWORD

88 WHEELS

How to ﬁnd a bird in a forest.

129 LETTER FROM KLEINMOND

Do a self-drive tour in Botswana or camp next to the Bitou River.

“Bills and responsibilities which, in my older sister’s words, are ‘unspeakably boring’, seem to matter less in summer, and there’s an unspoken collective understanding that drinking cider during the day is‘festive’and not a reason for concern.”

92 STAY HERE

130 AFRICA AT ITS BEST

The Tiguan is Volkswagen’s topselling car, and when you drive the new one it’s not hard to see why.

90 TOURS

FRANÇOIS HAASBROEK

Where to ﬁnd the penguins – and the best ice cream…

Our handy gift guide makes Christmas shopping a cinch. Order online and go light a ﬁre!

Treat your guests to a summer feast with this ﬂavoursome menu.

4 go! #179

94 TAKE A HIKE

Looking for comfy accommodation outside the Kruger? Jackalberry Ridge in Marloth Park is a winner.

Insuring with King Price is so cheap and simple, it feels strange. The good kind of strange. For royal service, partner with the king of insurance.

For a quote, SMS ‘king’ to 43009 Standard SMS rates apply

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Whatever else it might be, South Africa is never boring, beige or vanilla. It’s diverse and colourful, and sometimes utterly crazy. If, like us, you’re a fan of the unusual, the out-of-the ordinary, and the just plain wacky, you’ll love our top picks of strange places to visit in Mzansi.

The Blue Train

Pretoria to Cape Town From P Town to C Town, this is a ride ﬁt for royalty. Indeed, kings, presidents and celebrities have indulged on this magniﬁcent, moving 5-star hotel on wheels, along with ‘ordinary folk’ who fantasise about a life of luxury. It’s known as the Blue Jewel and there’s nothing simple about it.

Hole in the Wall

The Shoe House

This cliff has a (w)hole lot of stories to tell. Legend has it that a beautiful land maiden fell in love with a young man of the Sea People. Her father disapproved, so the Sea People used a huge ﬁsh to batter a hole through the cliff, enabling the young lovers to disappear together.

Think walk-in shoe, art museum, B&B, and wedding venue for the joining of soles in matrimony. And as if that isn’t strange enough, there’s also a man-made cave containing an artist’s vision of the spiritual world. Go and see if the shoe ﬁts… It may not be a Louboutin but it’s comfy.

Coffee Bay, Eastern Cape

Ohrigstad, Limpopo

Hoot Hoot

Bourke’s Luck Potholes

Graskop, Mpumalanga It wasn’t pot luck… Nature worked hard over millions of years to create this strange spectacle that looks like a lunar landscape. These are the only potholes in SA that are guaranteed to put you in a good mood. (Although there is insurance for the other kind.)

The Big Pineapple

The Owl House

There’s a pineapple in the middle of Bathurst… Which is pretty strange, but it’s also pretty cool. It’s 3 stories tall, made of metal and ﬁberglass, and houses a museum packed with pineapples. It’s deﬁnitely the best way to get your 5 daily doses of fresh fruit in.

Strange to some, simply amazing to others, the Owl House is simply unforgettable. Mirrors and ground glass transform almost every interior surface into glittering ﬁelds of colour, while the garden is a fantasy-land of cement and glass sculptures. It’s a bucket-list must!

Bathurst, Eastern Cape

Nieu Bethesda, Eastern Cape

ED’S LETTER

Sun, sea, and good tidings

RONEL STEYN

DON’T MISS OUR NEXT ISSUE! The February/March issue will be on sale at your local retailer from 28 January 2022.

BEHIND THE SCENES

riends of mine recently hiked one of the six legs of the Kruger Trail. Each leg is roughly 100 km in length – an unsupported, week-long walk through a truly primitive wilderness. It’s just you and your companions, surrounded by wild animals, making your way (carefully!) through the veld day by day. This remarkable trail, which now looms large on my to-do list, made me think of how humans managed to become the dominant species on earth. We’re not as strong as a lion, fast as a cheetah or big as an elephant, and our ability to work together is not unique: ants, bees, wild dogs and even baboons do this quite effectively. Many good books have been written on the topic, and the consensus is that it was our unique ability to use language that gave us the edge – not only to warn about potential dangers, but also to explore future opportunities. Language, and especially the way we use it to tell stories, made it possible

for us to co-operate with each other, and with complete strangers far away. Stories inspire people to be adaptable; to attempt things they could not even dream about. For the magazine, this adaptability and faith in stories promising better times ahead have carried us to where we are now – into a season of well-deserved rest and new beginnings. For us, a summer holiday is synonymous with sand, sea and sunscreen, which is why our focus in this issue is on great escapes along the Wild and West coasts. Our wish is that great travel stories will continue to inspire you in 2022, not just to explore new places, but to treat your family, friends and strangers with love and respect. Good tidings to all!

PI PIERRE STEYN PSteyn@media24.com

Photographer, writer and our very own map maker, François Haasbroek has been a part of the team for 11 years. During that time, he has had more car drama on assignment than all the other writers combined. His trip to the Wild Coast (p 40) was no exception… a vehicle. In the end, a mechanic repaired the Condor with a hairdryer and some new wire insulation.

What’s your tally? Oﬀ the top of my head, I can think of 13 incidents, ranging from getting stuck on a muddy road in the Kruger Park for two hours, surrounded by elephants, to ﬁlling a diesel car with petrol in Bitterfontein. Scariest incident? In 2011, I was driving a Suzuki Jimny on a farm near Patensie in the Eastern Cape after heavy rain. At one point, the road simply gave way beneath me, causing the vehicle to roll and end

8 go! #179

up on its roof. Luckily I wasn’t going very fast – the farmers don’t like it when you drive more than 20 km/h near their orange orchards – and I escaped without serious injury. And the funniest? It’s never funny while it’s happening, but afterwards I can usually ﬁnd something to smile about. Like the time the magazine’s old Toyota Condor broke down in a parking lot in Nelspruit on New Year’s Eve in a deluge. I was stranded in Nelspruit for three days without

What happened on the Wild Coast? In Dwesa Nature Reserve, there’s is a sign that indicates a road to the Kobole estuary. I was curious and took the turn-oﬀ. I was in a two-wheel-drive Mahindra Scorpio SUV with decent ground clearance. I thought I’d be ﬁne. The road goes through a forest and down a steep hill to the river, where it comes to a dead end against the beach – with nowhere to turn around! I tried to reverse up the hill, but it was too steep and wet. The only solution was to turn around on the sand. I got stuck, of course. After struggling for a while, I abandoned the vehicle and walked

down the coast to find cellphone signal. I called the park office in East London and they sent someone stationed at the park gate to help me. I found out later that if I’d left the Scorpio there for an hour or two longer, the tide would have taken it… Do people help you when you’re stranded? Even in the middle of nowhere, a Good Samaritan usually pulls over to help. (Except that one farmer north of Noenieput who just drove right past me…) I’ve been helped by an aircraft mechanic from Betta in Namibia, fishermen from Hondeklip Bay and gospel singers from Philandersbron. What do you never leave home without? My crate of essentials: spade, tyre pressure gauge and air compressor.

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FIND A BALANCE

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S R E T LET

Where have you been? What have you seen? Write to editor@gomag.co.za COMPILED BY MARTINETTE LOUW

WINNING LETTER

Cat nap

I photographed this leopard at the Bedinkt waterhole, north of Nossob in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. It was September 2021. My wife Lize was looking for birds in the trees and I was also scanning the branches when a movement caught my eye – a ﬂick of a tail perhaps? I took a photo with my cellphone and zoomed in to get a better look. There it was: A leopard sound asleep and very well camouﬂaged! WILLIE TRAUT, Dwarskersbos

IN THE PARK

• Take better bird photos • Drive the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail •

MAPS

Spend time at all the best waterholes

Kgalagadi, Mabuasehube & Northern Cape

TO STAY 47PLACES

South Africa and Botswana sides of the Kgalagadi, Upington, Van Zylsrus, Askham, Augrabies and more!

The desert of plenty!

KURUMAN RIVER IN FLOOD • TREE GUIDE ROAD TRIP TO KOPPIESKRAAL PAN MEERKATS • MABUA FOR BEGINNERS

Plan your own trip to the Kgalagadi with the new go! Kalahari guide (R112). It’s packed with travel plans both inside and outside the park. Find the guide in your local supermarket or order a copy from yumna.tofey@media24.com

WRITE TO US & WIN! Willie wins a set of Zartek ZA-748 two-way radios with car antenna kits, worth R3 128. The ZA-748 is small yet powerful and comes preprogrammed with 16 channels. Its range is about 600 m indoors and 6 km outdoors, and its battery life is about 35 hours. The car antenna kit improves communication range while driving in convoy. zartek.co.za

SPEAK TO US Send your letters to editor@gomag.co.za – include your name, surname and where you live. Please also include a photo if you have one (at least 2 MB in size). We reserve the right to edit and shorten letters, and use your photos elsewhere in the magazine, on our digital platforms and in our marketing material.

14 go! #179

Did you lose a marble?

We pulled over on the Letaba River Bridge in the Kruger Park for a cup of tea, but we couldn’t get out of our vehicle because there was a troop of baboons nearby. I noticed that one of the young baboons was chewing on something, which he promptly spat out and studied closely. It was a marble… It must have fallen out of a vehicle. Surely nobody actually decided to play a game of marbles on the bridge during a visit? PETER MULLINEUX, George

You’re next!

I visited Olifants North Game Reserve, near the Kruger Park, in August 2021. We came across a pride of lions not even five minutes into our first game drive of the weekend – they had killed a young giraffe next to the road. The lions were very relaxed and we watched them for about 45 minutes. We returned to the kill a number of times over the weekend – I took this photo of a young lioness on the afternoon of our last day. CAITLIN FOURIE, Middelburg

Water is life

I grew up in Loeriesfontein, a tiny town on the border of Bushmanland and the Karoo. Loeriesfontein’s neighbour Nieuwoudtville is better known thanks to its reputation as a “ﬂower town” during spring. I often visit the area when the wildﬂowers are in bloom and I always try to visit the Nieuwoudtville waterfall on the Doring River, about 6 km north of town next to the road to Loeriesfontein. I took this photo of the smaller, upper waterfall on 6 September 2021. The colourful rocks around the waterfall caught my eye. PETER IMMELMAN, Bellville

Swiss surprises

My wife Suzanne and I recently explored Switzerland. Our son JD spends lots of time in Europe and was our tour guide for this trip. One of the places we visited was Haute-Nendaz – a village high in the Alps. The scenery was spectacular. I couldn’t stop taking photos! In total, we travelled about 2 300 km by car and experienced all the highlights, like the Furka Pass where the James Bond movie Goldﬁnger was ﬁlmed; Zermatt village, at the base of the Matterhorn; and the famous Verbier ski resort. I shot this pic at Lac de Cleuson – a clear reservoir surrounded by mountains. JOHAN SENEKAL, Pongola

go! #179 15

Sunrises and silver mist

In August, my wife Esmé and I spent a weekend at Stanford Lake Lodge near Haenertsburg in Limpopo. It was our ﬁrst visit – we stayed in one of the cottages on the mountain slope and we had a lovely time ﬁshing and walking in the indigenous forest. On the Saturday morning we were greeted by this beautiful sunrise over the lake. The next day was the complete opposite – the lake was invisible in the mist! This area is known as the land of the silver mist, and it certainly lived up to its name. TONIE VAN DER WESTHUIZEN, Pretoria

S-s-scuse me! During a recent visit to the Kruger Park, we were standing on the stoep at the shop in Lower Sabie when a green snake appeared from the veld. I thought it was a boomslang or green mamba at ﬁrst, but later learnt it was an Eastern Natal green snake. The snake tried to catch a lizard on the stoep, which ﬂed in the nick of time. It then slithered into the branches of a shrub and onto the beams of the roof. I’m so happy my grandchildren got to see not only the Big Five, but also a green snake! LEON VENTER, Kimberley

16 go! #179

Ready for action

We were driving on the S63 to Crook’s Corner in the Kruger Park to enjoy a skottel breakfast when this lilac-breasted roller dropped into the road ahead of our Landy and beat the mouse on the ground until it was lifeless. I was caught oﬀ guard and went for the auto option on my trusty Canon 5D Mark II with a 100 – 400 mm lens – this was the result. Obviously, patience is key when you’re taking wildlife photos, but you also need to be able to act on full autopilot when the unexpected happens! KEVIN BARNES, Sedgeﬁeld

WhatsApp for dinner

I recently travelled through Moremi Game Reserve in northern Botswana with some friends. What a special experience! We camped at South Gate on our ﬁrst night. After supper, we washed our dishes and packed everything away before we went to bed, but I forgot my cellphone on my camping chair… We had set up a night camera, which captured this image of my phone being carried oﬀ by a hyena after dark. Luckily, I found it in the bush a few metres away the next morning! PAUL SMIT, Amsterdam

LETTERS Big spider, little spider The Kruger Park has so much to oﬀer – far more than just the Big Five. If you stop and take in your surroundings, you’ll discover a whole new world. I took this photo at Sirheni Bushveld Camp. It’s a female golden orb web spider and if you look closely, you’ll see the male spider on her abdomen. TREVOR GARRARD, Kaapschehoop

Leopard’s-eye view My son JT (22) took this photo during a visit to Etosha National Park in Namibia. We saw the leopard approach from the direction of Halali rest camp and pulled over to see what it was up to. The pretty cat sauntered up to the route marker, jumped on top of it and looked at us with interest. After scanning the area, it disappeared into the bushes. An unforgettable moment! LEON CRONJE, Stellenbosch

All the heavies in one place As an Honorary Officer with the iMfolozi section of the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park in KZN, I am fortunate to spend a lot of time in the park, and I see some amazing things. Our last working weekend in August 2021 was exceptional. Upon our arrival in the park on the Friday afternoon, we pulled into the viewing site close to the 17i intersection. There, on the banks of the Black iMfolozi River, we saw three of the Big Five together – rhino, elephant and buffalo! On the Sunday, we stopped at the same viewing site on our way out of the reserve and saw rhino again, plus a lion. It’s a privilege to work in such a magnificent park. ASLAM BHORAT, Durban

The right way to start the day

I was in the Kruger Park and pulled over at the Gezantfombi Dam one morning – the dam is near the Crocodile Bridge gate on the H4-2. The sunrise coloured the quiet waters orange, and a grey heron stalked along the water’s edge. Idyllic! LEIGHTON FERREIRA, Pretoria

go! #179 17

Q& A

Every month our experts answer your questions about birds, bugs and beasts. Send your photos and questions to editor@gomag.co.za

Who nose what happened?

Why the ring?

RIAAN HAMMOND from Hartenbos writes: I saw this herd of elephants in the Kruger Park recently. One of the elephants had a gaping wound on her forehead – what might have caused it?

JOHAN MAREE from Bapsfontein writes: We recently camped at Shingwedzi in the Kruger Park and noticed this dove in the rest camp. It came looking for crumbs and was comfortable among the other birds. Why has it got a ring on its leg?

Wildlife expert LD VAN ESSEN says: It’s difficult to give a definitive answer. The hole in the elephant’s face could be a congenital defect, or it could have been caused by an injury that turned septic; it might even be the result of an abscess. This specific cow is well known. She was first recorded in the Umbabat Private Nature Reserve next to the Kruger Park in 2009. She was a subadult at the time, which means she’s now more than 12 years old. She was seen with a calf in 2019 – probably the young elephant on the far right. She is in a good condition. The hole won’t hinder her from collecting food and putting it in her mouth, but I wonder how she drinks enough water. Clearly, she’s managing, though, because she wouldn’t survive on an insufficient water intake. We can assume that she is mostly breathing through the hole and not through her trunk. She’s a great example of animals’survival instinct.

Bird expert LUKAS NIEMAND says: This is an African mourning dove. It’s fairly common in places like Shingwedzi and Letaba in the Kruger, but rare elsewhere. As a result, these rest camps are popular with birders hoping to see the species. The dove was probably ringed by a private person or during a trip organised by a club aﬃliated with BirdLife SA. To ring birds in South Africa, the person or institution needs a permit issued by the South African Bird Ringing Unit (Safring). In this case, they would probably also need permission from SANParks to do so in a national park. Unfortunately, the unique number on the ring is hard to read – that would help you determine when, where and by whom the bird was ringed. It’s unclear whether the bird was part of a research project. For these projects, a coloured ring (or a combination of coloured rings) is used to distinguish individuals. The rings usually don’t have any negative eﬀects on the bird’s behaviour.

What’s wrong with the horns? MAANS KOTZE from Reebok writes: I saw this kudu bull near Letaba in the Kruger Park. Its horns look deformed – what could have caused it? Wildlife expert LD VAN ESSEN says: The kudu’s horns aren’t deformed – they’re covered in mud! Antelope like kudu, nyala, tsessebe, hartebeest and blue wildebeest sometimes rub their horns and faces in mud – as a show of dominance or to mark their territory. This behaviour is known as ground horning. Judging by this kudu’s thick neck, it’s one of the dominant bulls in the area, if not the most dominant!

18 go! #179

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CHECK THIS

Hans Knoesen operates a camel farm at Koppieskraal Pan, deep in the Kalahari near the tiny town of Rietfontein. About 20 camel cows are milked daily. And where does the milk go? Most of it is freeze-dried and sold in powdered form to Somali immigrants who live in big cities like Cape Town and Johannesburg. Somalis love their camel milk!

PICTURE TOAST COETZER

Read more about this fascinating farm in go! Kalahari, which also features other great guest farms in the area, plus the ever-popular Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Available in stores or order online at winkel.weg.co.za

go! #179 23

IN BRIEF Go glamping in Grootvadersbosch Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve – in the foothills of the Langeberg in the Western Cape – has set up ﬁve new luxury safari tents, each with a view of forest and mountains. On sunny days you can roll up the canvas walls and feel as though you’re truly living outdoors. Birdsong ﬁlls the air: Red-chested cuckoo, sombre greenbul, greater doublecollared sunbird… When the weather takes a chillier turn, batten down the hatches and play cards around the table. (Tip: August gets pretty windy. Rather opt to stay in one of their chalets.) Each tent is fully equipped for self-catering and can sleep either three adults, or two adults and two children, on a stretcher bed and sleeper couch. The glamp camp is in an opening on the edge of the forest, which was previously used as two private campsites. In accordance with CapeNature’s movement towards more sustainable building practices, the existing bathrooms have been incorporated into two of the luxury tents: Boekenhout and Yellowwood. Those tents also have sheltered braai areas at the back. The remaining three tents have outdoor showers. Red Alder is wheelchair-friendly. Although they’re close together, the tents are relatively private. Once the shrubbery separating each one has grown out a bit, you won’t be in danger of seeing your neighbour in his pyjamas and slippers. Grootvadersbosch also has some “regular” campsites, and stands with amenities like a deck, plus a sink, shelf, braai area, table and benches. Ablutions are shared. A kilometre west of reception, the old forestry cabins on a hill have been converted into tidy self-catering chalets. Where? Grootvadersbosch is about 45 km east of Swellendam via the N2 and the R324. Rates: Camping from R190 per night for two people. Glamping from R570 per night for two people, plus R185 per extra person. Chalets from R980 per night for four people. Contact: 087 087 8250; capenature.co.za

– Esma Marnewick

24 go! #179

JUVENILE BOOMSLANG

ROOTING FOR TREES IN THE MOTHER CITY

De Waal Park in Oranjezicht is beloved by Capetonians for the natural oasis it provides in an otherwise bustling city. Part of its attraction lies in the 630 trees planted over the years, many of which are indigenous additions donated by the Friends of De Waal Park association. Now, thanks to an initiative by plant enthusiast Tielman Haumann (pictured, top), you can pick up a tree route map (R10) at the Bandstand on your way in and take yourself on a tour of the park’s most impressive trees. The map is numbered (1 – 38) and each tree has a corresponding black plaque. Green story tags and QR codes provide interesting facts about the tree. For example, the seeds of the carob tree are so consistent in mass (200 mg each) that they were used as a standard unit of measurement by ancient Arab traders to weigh gold and gemstones! Where? The self-guided tour starts at the northwest entrance to the park, on the corner of Molteno Road and Camp Street in Oranjezicht. Map? If the Bandstand isn’t open, contact Tielman on 082 452 8085 and arrange to collect a map from him directly.

– Kyra Tarr

Tielman also oﬀers guided plant tours at 4 pm on Sunday afternoons, starting at Van Riebeeck Park in Oranjezicht. Contact him for more information.

JOHAN MARAIS

SNAKE FILES

Through the eye of a snake

lthough snakes have good eyesight, their eyes are most adept at detecting movement. Hence the old warning: Stand perfectly still when you encounter a snake. It’s good advice. Even better advice is backing oﬀ as quickly as possible! Once you’re 5 m or more away from any snake, you are relatively safe and unlikely to get bitten. Snakes are unlikely to strike at stationary objects or at people, unless they resemble or smell like prey. Only two snakes in South Africa are believed to have superior vision and are capable of seeing stationary prey: The boomslang and the twig or vine snake. These snakes have binocular vision like humans; most other snakes have monocular vision, which means the eyes don’t register images in co-ordination with each another. Snakes do not have moveable eyelids. Instead, a ﬁxed transparent shield, shed with the rest of the skin during the sloughing process, covers the eye. This is a feature we can use to distinguish snakes from legless lizards, as most lizards have eyelids. You can tell a lot about a snake’s behaviour by looking at its eyes. Take the pupil, for example: Snakes with vertically elliptic (cat-like) pupils are generally nocturnal, whereas snakes with round pupils are diurnal, meaning they are active during the daytime. The position of the eye is also important. Many water snakes such as the dusky-bellied water snake, and desert snakes like the Peringuey’s adder, have eyes on the top of the head. For water snakes, this allows them to ambush prey and watch out for predators while submerged; for desert-dwelling snakes, it means they can bury themselves in the sand with only the top of their head and eyes exposed to ambush passing lizards. The diameter of the eye compared to the head tells us about the snake’s lifestyle. Arboreal snakes, like the spotted bush snake and the boomslang, have large eyes with good vision, while underground snakes, like Bibron’s blind snake, have small eyes with poor vision. And lastly, did you know that diurnal snakes, like mambas and cobras, have colour vision, while most nocturnal snakes only see in black and white?

– Johan Marais

Visit

africansnakebiteinstiture.com for more information.

go! #179 25

NIGHT WATCH

PHASES OF THE MOON DECEMBER 2021 NEW MOON 4 DECEMBER SPRING TIDE: 5 DECEMBER HIGH TIDE: 3.44 AM & 3.55 PM

FIRST QUARTER 11 DECEMBER

Cape Town 8.19 am 11,5%

George 8.21 am 7,6%

Springbok 8.12 am 5,9%

NEAP TIDE: 12 DECEMBER HIGH TIDE: 10.41 AM & 11.22 PM

FULL MOON SPRINGBOK MOON 19 DECEMBER SPRING TIDE: 20 DECEMBER HIGH TIDE: 3.54 AM & 4 PM

STELLARIUM.ORG

Beaufort West 8.18 am 5,3%

Gqeberha 8.22 am 4,6%

Upington 8.11 am 1,9%

LAST QUARTER 27 DECEMBER NEAP TIDE: 27 DECEMBER HIGH TIDE: 9.06 AM & 9.47 PM

JANUARY 2022 NEW MOON 2 JANUARY

East London 8.22 am 1,8%

Walvis Bay 8.01 am 1%

Bloemfontein 8.14 am 0,1%

SPRING TIDE: 4 JANUARY HIGH TIDE: 4.26 AM & 4.40 PM

FIRST QUARTER 9 JANUARY NEAP TIDE: 12 JANUARY HIGH TIDE: 11.41 AM & N/A

FULL MOON MANTIS MOON 18 JANUARY SPRING TIDE: 20 JANUARY HIGH TIDE: 4.47 AM & 4.57 PM

LAST QUARTER 25 JANUARY SPRINGBOK MOON 19 DECEMBER

MANTIS MOON 18 JANUARY 2022

Who dimmed the sun? Early on Saturday 4 December 2021, the new moon will slot in precisely between the earth and the sun, causing a partial solar eclipse for us in South Africa. In contrast to a lunar eclipse, which can be seen from anywhere where the moon is up, a total solar eclipse can only be viewed from certain points on the earth’s surface. If you wanted to experience this particular solar eclipse in its entirety, you’d have to book a voyage to Antarctica… Even so, Antarctica is a large continent, and one would have to locate what is called the “strip of totality” to be completely in the moon’s shadow. South Africans and Namibians will still be privy to the spectacle – for us, the eclipse will look like someone has taken a bite out of the sun. The further south-west you are in these two countries, the larger the “bite” will appear. Capetonians are in for a treat, as 11% of the sun will be in shadow for the longest period of time (7.42 am until 8.58 am). Bloemfontein is on the north-western border of visibility, with 0,1% of the eclipse visible in that region. The graphic shows the visibility and times for a few other spots in the country. Remember: Never look directly into the sun with your naked eye! Even sunglasses don’t provide suﬃcient protection. Other items on the no-no list include old X-rays, photo negatives and glass that has been burnt black. Use a proper pair of solar eclipse glasses – it’s the only safe way to look at the sun. A selection is available at amazon.com – Willie Koorts

26 go! #179

NEAP TIDE: 27 JANUARY HIGH TIDE: 10.41 AM & 11.49 PM

These are the high tide times for Cape Town. For other places, add or subtract minutes: Saldanha: +5; Hermanus: -4; Gqeberha: +19; Durban: +26 Tide information reproduced with permission from the Hydrographer, SA Navy. The Hydrographer is not responsible for any transcription errors. sanho.co.za

SUNRISE & SUNSET 16 DECEMBER Cape Town 5.30 AM & 7.54 PM Bloemfontein 5.11 AM & 7.11 PM Johannesburg 5.10 AM & 6.57 PM Durban 4.50 AM & 6.54 PM

16 JANUARY 2022 Cape Town 5.52 AM & 8 PM Bloemfontein 5.31 AM & 7.18 PM Johannesburg 5.30 AM & 7.05 PM Durban 5.11 AM & 7.01 PM Source: saao.ac.za

IN BRIEF

PIT STOP

Veldskoen Padstal, De Doorns Veldskoen Padstal in De Doorns is one of those farm stalls that has thrown away the training wheels and embraced“institution”status. If you’re heading into the Karoo from the Worcester side, or if you’re coming from the other direction after many hours of hard driving on the N1, Veldskoen should be a mandatory stop. If the cheerfully painted façade, shady picnic spots and fragrant rose garden don’t draw you in, the tasty treats and preserves certainly will. Unusual items on the shelves include pickled quail’s eggs (R119,50), fruit rolls of all shapes and sizes (from R36,50), blackberry compote (R79,50), dried apple rings (R24,50) – when last? – and beautiful tubs of Rio Largo olive oil (R189,50). That’s your pantry sorted. Next, you might like to move on to the small antique store that’s attached to the farm stall. It has everything from old coffee tins to silverware and table linen. Even if you aren’t a shopper at heart, the curiosities warrant a nostalgic smile. If you’re hungry, pull up a chair and choose from an extensive breakfast and lunch menu. The Veldskoen breakfast includes two fried eggs, bacon, boerewors, pan-fried mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, toast and preserves, all for R98. Lunch could range from a home-made beef burger (R95) to an open sandwich or salad. The ingredients are truly splendid. After all, farm stalls get to tap into fresh, regional produce and Veldskoen exploits this privilege unapologetically. We’re talking buttermilk flapjacks with maple syrup (R75) and cheese and tomato toasties with onion marmalade and basil pesto (R62). It’s a verifiable foodie heaven! The little ones can stretch their legs in the outdoor area, which also has a trampoline. Contact: veldskoenpadstal.co.za – Kyra Tarr

IN BRIEF

VIEW FROM HERE

Othmane Zolati The 27-year-old recently completed a four-year, 30 000 km journey on foot, bicycle and skateboard through 24 African countries, ﬁnishing at the southernmost tip of the continent in Cape Agulhas. Watch his documentary Africa and I on Showmax.

Have you always loved adventure? As the only boy born to a conservative Moroccan family with three sisters, I was pretty shy growing up. This changed at the age of 12 when my friends and I rode through a forest near our home town of El Jadida. We only ventured 15 km or so, but it was the furthest I’d ever been from home at that point. I remember falling behind and crying because I was alone and afraid. All the teasing that followed made me decide to live a more adventurous life. From that day on I became a competitive cyclist and started doing trips throughout Morocco. When did you start your epic journey? For many years, I had a dream of travelling to Dakar, the capital of Senegal, after seeing a signpost on one of my biking trips. After completing my studies at the age of 20, I set off for Senegal with nothing more than a backpack and $80 to my name. On the day I left home, I hitch-hiked to the border and crossed into Mauritania, the country that separates Morocco and Senegal. All my energy was focused on getting to Senegal; within a week I arrived in Rosso, a town on the Senegal River. What was Senegal like? It was everything I thought it would be. I learnt how to climb tall palm trees, cut coconuts, and I ate fruit I don’t even know the name of. I braided baskets, cut trees using traditional equipment, learnt how to prepare coal, paddled traditional canoes, fished with traditional fishing rods and nets, and cultivated rice for the first time in my life. I experienced the true meaning of sharing love and peace, which the Senegalese call teraanga.

28 go! #179

Is that when you decided to continue your travels? After a month in Senegal, I decided to move on. I travelled to Mali, where I was arrested on the border because I“looked like a terrorist”. After that, I travelled to Ivory Coast, where I settled for a while to make money for my journey. I worked as a shoe-seller and then in a hardware store. It was there that I contracted malaria from living outdoors; sleeping on top of containers or under trucks when it rained. Things turned around for me in Ivory Coast when I found a comfortable factory job where I helped to make biscuits and sweets. After a while I found myself falling into the traps of modern, capitalist living again. I set a goal to save enough money to buy myself a camera and a bicycle, and then move on. I went to Ghana, Togo and Benin. There, visa struggles held me up for a while, but sometime later I flew for the very first time – to Ethiopia. Incredible adventures! Is there one particular experience that stands out? In Ethiopia, I decided to cycle to Kenya through the desert on my own. I veered off course and got lost for five days. I realise now how close I came to death, but more importantly, how great the human spirit for survival is. I eventually made it to Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, where I met some fellow Moroccans and stayed with them for a couple of days. The money I had made in Ivory Coast was almost finished, so they supported me with some much-appreciated funding to continue my travels and realise what had become my dream: Making it all the way to the southernmost tip of Africa. I carried on to Tanzania and experienced the “dream island”of Zanzibar. After that I travelled to Uganda and Rwanda.

By this stage, some people had cottoned on to what I was doing. I was even interviewed for a TV programme. I realised then that what I was doing was noteworthy, and I wanted to share my experience of Africa with more people. Did you feel threatened at any point? I don’t think there is any adventure without a bit of danger. However, the only incident of real“crime” I experienced was when $50 were stolen from me in Malawi. It meant that I entered Zambia with only $5 to my name. How did it feel when you finally made it to South Africa? It felt incredible, especially since I’d had to travel to Botswana and Eswatini to make my way in with the appropriate visa. After getting to Johannesburg, I continued my journey to Cape Agulhas on my skateboard, which I’d started riding because my bicycle chain gave out. (I started skateboarding in Mozambique and skated through Malawi, Zambia, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Eswatini.) The final 5 km section to Agulhas was surreal. The memories of everything I’d been through to get to that point played out in my head: saying goodbye to my family four years previously, getting malaria, fishing in Senegal, sleeping in the rain, getting lost in the desert… It was then that I understood nothing in life happens as quickly as we want it to, and maybe that’s a good thing. I said to myself: I am Othmane Zolati. I am an adventurer. People like me don’t give up; we finish what we set out to do. Watch Africa and I on Showmax or follow Othmane on Instagram and Facebook: @zolatiothmane

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S K O O B

Books are the ideal Christmas gift: They keep you busy for hours, transport you to a diﬀerent world and – best of all – they’re easy to wrap! Here’s a selection for every kind of reader. COMPILED BY MARTINETTE LOUW

Blood Trail by Tony Park, Pan Macmillan R300 in bookstores Australian author Tony Park weaves another thrilling tale set on local shores, this time basing the action in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve next to the Kruger Park. When young girls and a tourist disappear from the reserve and adjacent land, captain Sannie van Rensburg of the South African police force teams up with tracker Mia Greenaway to try and ﬁnd them. Along the way, they uncover a poaching ring targeting the reserve’s rhinos, but the poachers use witchcraft to disappear right before their eyes… Park pays close attention to detail; you can almost smell the bruised leaves of the Lowveld shrubs as the characters run through the veld in hot pursuit. The crime mystery is central to the story, but Park also touches on conservation issues, the eﬀect of Covid-19 on the tourism industry, and traditional beliefs and medicine. The narrative is fast-paced: You’ll be swept along and kept on the edge of your hammock this summer – the perfect escape after a long year.

30 go! #179

Rogues’ Gallery: An Irreverent History of Corruption in South Africa, from the VOC to the ANC by Matthew Blackman & Nick Dall, Penguin Random House R230 in bookstores You wouldn’t think corruption could be funny, but somehow Matthew Blackman and Nick Dall manage to discuss some of the most corrupt ﬁgures in South African history in a way that keeps you entertained. (Regular go! readers might recognise Dall’s name: He’s written many columns and features for the magazine.) Willem Adriaan van der Stel, Cecil John Rhodes, Paul Kruger, Lucas Mangope, Jacob Zuma… South Africa has a long and sad history of theft, fraud and dodgy government tenders. Many of our popular travel destinations also have a shady past: Read this book, and next time you visit places like Sun City, the Selati Railway Bridge in the Kruger Park, and Vergelegen wine estate, you’ll look at them with new eyes. It’s a heavy topic examined with a light touch, and while it seems like an unlikely beach read, you’ll have trouble putting this book down once you start.

Meat: The Ultimate Guide

Pollinators, Predators & Parasites

by Annelien Pienaar, Human & Rousseau

by Clarke Scholtz, Jenny Scholtz & Hennie de Klerk, Struik Nature

R380 in bookstores

R590 in bookstores

This recipe book is for the carnivorous cook in your life. Food scientist Annelien Pienaar has put together more than a hundred recipes for beef, lamb and mutton, pork, poultry, offal and venison. There’s also a section on marinades, sauces, seasonings and pickles that pair well with meat. The dishes are packed with flavour: fillet with smoked mussels and mushrooms; Tuscan chicken with oven-dried tomato marmalade; duck breasts with port and cherry sauce… With this book on your kitchen shelf, you won’t just cook up a storm, you’ll also learn new things on every page. Pienaar sets out the different meat cuts and cooking methods, explains how best to freeze and age meat, and defines commonly used terminology. Who doesn’t want to throw around words like barde, quenelles and réchauffé – and actually know what they mean? Pienaar also authored the popular Boerekos with a Twist (2018) and follows the same recipe here by combining traditional fare with modern takes.

As far as the mammal species of southern Africa are concerned, most of us can tell one furry creature from another. Even bird species can be mastered. But insects! With close to 50 000 described species that crawl, fly and hop, it’s almost impossible to identify all the creepy crawlies you come across. This comprehensive guide will tell you everything you need to know about insects in great detail – from their diet, their defence mechanisms and life cycles, to their role in the ecosystem. The 25 insect orders of our region are discussed according to the 13 biomes they’re found in; the chapter about insects in urban environments is especially handy. Now you can find out the name of that pesky bug with the orange legs that eats your clivias! Whether you want to brush up on the taxonomy or morphology of insects, or just find the name of an insect, this guide with illustrations and more than 1 600 colour photos holds the answer. – Sophia van Taak

Walking Safaris of South Africa

!Qhoi n|a Tjhoi/ Tortoise and Ostrich

The Lost Book of Adventure

How many ways can you say goodbye?

by Hlengiwe Magagula and Denis Costello, Struik Travel & Heritage

by Katrina Esau, New Africa Books

edited by Teddy Keen, Frances Lincoln Children’s Books R445 at takealot.com

by Refiloe Moahloli, Penguin Random House R180 in bookstores

This fun read, with its beautiful illustrations, might look like a children’s book but it’s for anyone who dreams of adventure and wild places. In fact, you could say it’s an encyclopaedia of adventure! Everything you need to know about the outdoors is described here: how to build a shelter, what to put in your survival kit, how to read a map, navigate a river… The book itself is of mysterious origins – it was compiled using notes and sketches found in a hut deep in the Amazon rainforest, apparently left there by an unknown adventurer. This person travelled the world and saw many wonderful things. He or she shares their experiences of a sandstorm in the Sahara, a bike ride through Africa, the Northern Lights, emperor penguins in Antarctica… Read this book at home on the couch, but also take it along on holiday in case you get lost or forget the ﬁrelighters at home. – Esma Marnewick

Bye, so long, see you later… Your kids probably have lots of ways of saying goodbye to their friends in their mother tongue, but can they say goodbye in all 11 of South Africa’s official languages? In this follow-up to her book, How many ways can you say hello? (2017), Refiloe Moahloli teaches you how to do just that. Sara and her friends take a ride in a hot-air balloon, making stops at the seaside, at a carnival, and in the bushveld. Along the way, they say goodbye to their friends as they drop them off at home. The story is written in rhyming verse and accompanied by colourful illustrations by Anja Stoeckigt. If you’re worried that you might get the pronunciation wrong when you read the book aloud, there’s a QR code up front to download a narration by the author. Soon you’ll all be able to confidently say “tsamaya hantle”in Sesotho, “hamba kahle”in isiZulu,“totsiens”in Afrikaans and more.

R270 in bookstores South Africans are spoilt with the variety of nature reserves in our country. So much so that you start to feel a bit blasé when you see another elephant or buﬀalo while out on a game drive. But when you explore the same habitat on foot, you realise how wild it really is. A wilderness hike refreshes you, teaches you new things, and brings you back to earth in more than one way. This book covers 59 guided hikes in 18 of our country’s most scenic reserves, plus a few routes in neighbouring Botswana and eSwatini. Each entry gives a short overview of the conservation area and its hiking trails, and tells you how much it costs, how big your hiking group can be, which season is the best time to hike, and how to make a booking. There’s about one route per page – lots of adventures, in other words… Time to dust oﬀ your hiking boots! – Sophia van Taak

R120 at

puku.co.za

If you love languages and African folk tales, add this children’s book to your collection. Katrina Esau is the last surviving mother-tongue speaker of N|uu, one of the oldest and most endangered languages in the world. Esau lives in Upington, where she works to promote the oral stories and culture of the N|uu people. In this book, Esau tells the tale of Tortoise and Ostrich in N|uu. When Tortoise ﬁnds a clay pot half-hidden in the Kalahari sand, he wants to take it home. But Ostrich shows up and wants the pot for himself. Ostrich challenges Tortoise to a race – who will win the pot? Esau narrated this story and her granddaughter, Claudia Snyman, put it to paper. It’s accompanied by English and Afrikaans translations and illustrated by Stanley Grootboom. The book is aimed at children aged 6 – 10, but since it’s the ﬁrst children’s book published in N|uu, you might want a piece of history for yourself, too.

go! #179 31

In vellies we trust Which shoes are you wearing as you walk into 2022? Sophia van Taak makes the case for velskoens.

ntil fairly recently, if you wore vellies, you were either a farmer or David Kramer. Some dictionaries still describe the velskoen as “a home-made shoe; a farmer’s shoe (with a low heel)”. It was a workhorse, not much more. Side story: People on farms are resourceful. Gustav Nortjé*, who

32 go! #179

ILLUSTRATION NICOLENE LOUW

farms in the Baviaanskloof, told me in the old days, their rugby players wore boots made from baboon hide. It might sound absurd today, but for those pragmatic farmers, it made perfect sense. The players needed durable boots and baboons were a pest. Two birds, one stone. But back to velskoens. They’re trendy now. Fashionable, even. Something you could previously only buy at a co-op is now available everywhere. There are Freestyle vellies; Kalahari Vellies; Sapmok; Plaasmeisie; Grondpad Vellies; Bummel;

Boggom; and Katu Vellies, famous for their DKW model, which stands for Dans, Kerk & Werk. More and more people are catching on to the value and comfort of this South African icon. I wonder how many pairs are walking around the country right now? More than the number of K-Way down jackets? More than the number of people who have been vaccinated? Siya Kolisi loves his olive-green Freedom of Movement vellies, and Prince Harry has even been spotted

COLUMN

wearing a pair of Veldskoen Shoes with orange soles and laces. I love it. If only everything in South Africa could endure and prosper like a vellie! The vellies I’m wearing today are made from kudu leather. They were once blue but have faded to a grey rhebok hue. The leather has worn so thin and slipper soft that I’ve retired this pair from active travel duty. Throwing them away is not an option: Every velskoen becomes a friend and I walked a long road with this pair, from the Sagole Baobab in Limpopo through the jukskei sandpits of Kroonstad, past sheep being sheared in Williston, to the very top of Paarl Rock. They’ve stood on the white crust of Etosha Pan, played among bulbinellas in the Bokkeveld, crushed pepper tree fruit into the roads around Calvinia, danced at a sokkie in Stampriet, walked with a farmer through his burnt-down mielie field in southern Angola, prevented a coconut crab from pinching my toe in Madagascar, and even climbed the 699 steps of Jacob’s Ladder on St Helena Island. When the time does come to get a new pair, I always follow the same process: I slip my left foot in and do the toe test – yes, there’s enough space to wriggle them around. The right foot also gets a shoe. I tie the laces, sit back and look at them, tapping the soles on the floor like a drummer keeping a beat. Usually, if you’re buying a pair of shoes, you walk up and down the shop a bit, but not with vellies. I’ve had enough pairs to know: A velskoen is seldom comfortable on the first day. You have to work for it. But once the shoes have worn in… bliss! Creases form in the leather and it folds around your foot like a second sock. I look at the price on the shoebox one last time – not cheap, but this is a longterm investment, made from full-grain cow leather. Here they are, then: my shoes for the next three or four years. They’re perfect now, but soon they

My vellies go everywhere I go, and they soon start to resemble a pair of wild dog pups, marked by stains left by wood glue and hand sanitizer, marmalade and gemsbok blood (long story). But vellies can take it.

will be scratched and stained. My vellies go everywhere I go, and they soon start to resemble a pair of wild dog pups, marked by stains left by wood glue and hand sanitizer, marmalade and gemsbok blood (long story). But vellies can take it. If only we were more like vellies! I believe that vellies can unite people. For many years, I have been taking photos of my shoes when I travel. It started when I snapped a pic of a small tortoise next to my feet on a dirt road near Beaufort West, and I simply continued doing it. Before long, my vellie photos – and my vellies – started making me friends. Most often, those friends are canine. Dogs love snifﬁng my shoes. I always try to photograph them, too: snouts jutting into frame. There’s Josephine from Smithﬁeld; Meg from Loxton; tiny, one-eyed Muggie from Philippolis; Nella from the Waterberg; Vlooi from Rosendal; Trixie from Marnitz; Kollehond from the farm Kangnas in Bushmanland; Rita from Groot-Marico; Joe the pug from Moolmanshoek; Tokkelos from Williston… My most notable human-vellie encounter was with poet Breyten Breytenbach. I was at indie bookshop The Book Lounge in Cape Town, for the

launch of his poetry collection called op weg na kû. There were so many people I couldn’t even see Breytenbach where he sat in an armchair reading his poems. But through all the legs, I did manage to get a glimpse of his velskoens – red ones, each with a buckle on the side. Afterwards, my friend and I joined the queue for him to sign our copies. When we got to the front, Breyten greeted us and held out his hand for my book. But instead, I complimented him on his shoes. When he told me he’d bought them from Redemption in Wellington, I started to ramble on about how I used to drive there from Paarl with my mom when I was a girl, to buy school shoes, and how I had actually come to the front to talk to him about vellies. He was kind enough to say something polite about my own pair. My friend had to nudge me to remind me to hand over my book to be signed. Two other meetings will also stay with me. I once got the opportunity to speak to Arnold Gertse, a velskoen maker from the Cederberg village of Wupperthal, in his workshop among pliers and shoe lasts. I took a photo of our feet together – it’s special. I also have a photo of me and Stefanus Joseph, a man I met on the side of the road in Springbok. We didn’t know each other, but we simply had to stop and shake hands as we passed, both of us in red velskoens. In a way, a vellie fan is like a Volksie fan or a Vespa fan or a Land Rover fan. If I could, I’d greet fellow vellie wearers with my hand on the hooter. If you’re not yet a vellie fan, I think you should make a New Year’s resolution and buy a pair. Wear them with pride and be reminded that South Africa is still full of wonderful surprises. Be grateful that you have shoes on your feet. They can take you far. *Read Sophia’s proﬁle on Gustav Nortjé on page 34.

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PROFILE

The old man and the kloof Next time you drive through the Baviaanskloof, pull over at Babes se Winkel and say hello to Gustav Nortjé, the oom behind the cash register and a storyteller extraordinaire.

t’s a Monday morning in April and I’m with Gustav Nortjé (81) on the stoep of his turquoise house in the Baviaanskloof. It’s overcast: The clouds are heavy but seem reluctant to release their burden. In the front garden, a wind tugs on the branches of a scrawny guava tree. From the roof of the stoep hangs a ploughshare and some succulent planters made from plastic bottle halves strung up with orange baling twine. A clump of ferns grows in a corner. Gustav looks like a farmer: leather boots, rugby shorts, two-tone shirt with a cellphone and a pen in the pocket. But he’s actually a shopkeeper. Well, he is now. The turquoise house borders his shop, which is right next to the only road through the kloof. A cat emerges from the house but ﬂees over the stoep wall when she spies me. “Strepies! What’s going on with you this morning?” he says. Then he turns to me. “I’m one of the oldest men in the kloof. You can ask me anything about the people here. They grew up in front of me and I know them all by name.” Gustav is one of the last Nortjés in the Baviaanskloof. There used to be many more of them, including well-known Afrikaans author PH Nortjé. “Ja, my great-grandfather JG (Johannes Gerhardus) arrived in 1880 and got a title deed – he owned a piece of land that would later be divided between his three sons: Charlie inherited Grootplaas, Richard got Grysbult and my grandfather,

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BY SOPHIA VAN TAAK Frank, farmed on Sewefontein.” Gustav points over his shoulder, as if those farms are right behind the house. I’ve heard of Sewefontein before. It’s home to a natural spring and a forest of broom cluster fig trees that have sunk their roots deep into the water. A reliable water source is treasured in this region. “After my grandfather passed away, my dad Hannes inherited Sewefontein. His initials were also JG,” says Gustav, further mapping out the family tree. “Charlie’s sons, PH and Francis, were his cousins. Francis lived in this house and ran the shop. His name was actually Johannes Gerhardus Francois. I’m also Johannes Gerhardus Francois. Can you imagine how complicated things got at the post office! “This family of mine…” Gustav hesitates, then continues. “Look, Oom Richard was a donner. He had a twin brother who died when they were 12, trampled by an ostrich. My dad always said that God knew what He was doing because no parent would have been able to raise two of them… “Richard drove a Belsize, one of the first vehicles in the kloof. The brakes weren’t very good, and he always had a 7 mm Mauser behind the seat. One day, he was driving up the road when a donkey cart appeared out of nowhere. The brakes failed and he hit the donkey cart. The driver of the cart lay in the road and the donkeys were hurt. There was blood everywhere. Richard got the Mauser and put the donkeys out of their misery. The

driver was still down, watching the whole thing. Oom Richard asked him if he was alright. He was terriﬁed that he was about to be next: ‘I’ve never felt better in my life!’ he said.” Gustav’s laughter sends Strepies, who has crept closer, scurrying away again. “In those years there were many people in the kloof. Many bywoners on the farms. You won’t believe me, but there were eight schools in the Baviaans at one stage. I went to a two-man primary school… Oom Francis and another of my dad’s cousins, Alfred Smith, were our teachers. All the kids from Sub A to Standard 2 were in one classroom; the kids from Standard 3 to 5 were in the other. After Standard 5 I went to high school in Willowmore, where I matriculated in 1959. “I didn’t like school very much, but I enjoyed rugby and getting into trouble. My dad wanted me to go to Grootfontein agricultural college, but I told him I’d had enough of books. So, I returned to the farm – to Sewefontein. “In those years…” He thinks for a moment. “No. See, I was born in 1941. There were only ostrich farmers in the kloof before my time. And people started planting tobacco. The road to Patensie was very narrow but in a good condition – it was graded regularly. We drove it in 10-tonne trucks to deliver tobacco to Patensie. After a while, they found out there was too much chloride in the soil and the tobacco farming petered out. We switched over to vegetable seed. I produced

Farmer-cum-shopkeeper Gustav Nortjé, on his stoep in the Baviaanskloof.

PROFILE

“They still farm lucerne on a small scale, but the kudus eat it until there’s nothing left. In my day you wouldn’t even ﬁnd a kudu hair in the Baviaans!”

Opposite page: When Gustav (bottom) and his wife Babes took over the shop 11 years ago, he named it after her. The shop only gets busy during holidays, but it stocks essentials like biscuits (top) and Zam-Buk (middle, left). During quiet periods, Strepies the cat (middle, right) keeps Gustav company. 36 go! #179

vegetable seed until the 1990s. Vegetable seed was a big thing. The Baviaanskloof was the biggest vegetable seed producer in the country. Onions, beetroot, carrots, pumpkins, squash… you name it.” Gustav falls silent and looks at the bare guava tree. “It’s the monkeys,” he says. “They eat all the guavas. I didn’t even manage to pick one guava last year. Not one. They eat everything!” He takes the pen from his shirt pocket and turns it over and over, lost in thought. Then he snaps the pen back and says: “My father passed away in 1983 and that’s when my problems started. I inherited Sewefontein with my two brothers, Siegfried and Alten. How could we divide the farm? The only solution was for me to buy them out. Jis, man… Instead of an inheritance, I had to take out a bank loan. I paid so much interest on that loan I could have bought two new bakkies every year with the money. “That’s when I approached Gary Player to buy the farm. I called his horse stud farm near Colesberg. A foreman answered and when I asked where Gary was he said, ‘Hold on, please.’ Gary was with him and next thing he was on the line. I was ﬂabbergasted! I told him the farm was in the Willowmore district because the Baviaanskloof wasn’t so well known back then. When Gary heard ‘Willowmore’, he thought ‘Karoo’. He didn’t know what the landscape looked like here, or that we had natural springs on the farm. He was still playing golf professionally and told me that he spent more time overseas than in South Africa and he already had the farm near Colesberg. He wasn’t interested. If only he knew what it looked like here!” Gustav held out for 10 years before the bank repossessed his farm. He toys with a loose thread on the seam of his rugby shorts. “Nou ja, then I farmed for other people,” he says. “I planted orchards and lucerne ﬁelds and installed irrigation systems…” After a pause, he changes tack: “It’s a shame this place is so dry. I’ve never seen it likes this. The trees are still green, but there’s nothing on the ground. The mountains are government land, but there were many farms here in the kloof. When they built the Kouga Dam in the 1960s, some of the farms were bought up. The parks board also acquired some. There

weren’t many farmers left in the end. “They still farm lucerne on a small scale, but the kudus eat it until there’s nothing left. In my day you wouldn’t even find a kudu hair in the Baviaans! There were cattle and dorper sheep, and Dohne merinos for wool, and angora goats… Mohair is the main industry now. People farm with sheep on higher ground where there is grass, but you have to pump water up there. Solar pumps – it’s the only way to farm. One year of rain won’t help – we need two or three.” A wooden window frame hangs against the stoep wall, each pane holding a family photo of the Nortjés over the years. “Here I am with all my children,” Gustav says proudly. “My daughter Marieka is a colonel in the police service in Port Elizabeth. And these are my sons: Reghardt is in Brackenfell – he does specialised drilling under roads and buildings; and Francois is an animal health technician in Cradock. That’s the new name for a ‘stock inspector’.” There are also photos of his late wife. “She was also from the kloof,” he says. “Maria Petronella, but we called her Babes.” His finger lingers on one particular photo. “She wasn’t doing so well here. She’d had three small strokes and was in a wheelchair. I had to take care of her. I had help during the day, but I was alone with her at night. It was difficult. We knew it was coming, but when she left the kloof in an ambulance in January 2020, I didn’t know that it would be the last time I would see her.” He gets a far-off look in his eyes. “I still can’t believe how ill she was.” A vehicle approaches and stops in front of the shop. A car door slams and a woman walks fast up the garden path to the stoep. “Môre!” she says, introducing herself: Susan Reyneke from the olive farm Kamerkloof. “Is the shop open today?” “No, it’s closed for as long as I want to sit on the stoep,” Gustav jokes. “Can I get a pumpkin?” “Jong, I don’t have pumpkins, cabbage or sweet potatoes, but there are potatoes and onions.” Susan is at the door and he shouts after her: “Look in the fridge – there’s broccoli, too!” He turns back to me. “Babes and I fixed up this place 11 years ago. After Oom

Francis passed away, the shop was closed for a long time and was neglected. I had experience running another shop on the farm – in my grandfather’s old ostrichfeather sorting room. That one was called the Sewefontein General Dealer, but this one… I changed its name to Babes se Winkel.” Susan emerges from the shop with a bag of apples, some bananas and a pack of candles. “I left R100 next to the till,” she says as she makes a beeline for her car. Gustav tries to stop her. “Wait, I have to weigh the fruit!” “Ag, weigh seven other bananas!” “R100 is too much!” “It’s okay; we’ll sort it out another day. I have to go – we’re harvesting on the farm. Bye!” She steps around the guava tree, gets in her car and drives off. A convoy of bakkies towing off-road caravans speeds past. They don’t stop at the shop. I wonder how much business the shop sees in a day. As if reading my mind, Gustav says: “The kloof is busy over Easter and at the end of the year, but I don’t have much to do with tourists. They only come in to buy a cooldrink, maybe some biscuits. I serve the community. Chicken, sausage, Russians, livers… Want to see?” We walk into the cool darkness of the shop. The fridges hum softly. On a wide wooden counter, a book full of scribbles and sums rests next to a box of apples – R3,50 each. Above the cash register there are old signs for Chesterﬁeld, Gunston and Satin Leaf cigarettes. I ask Gustav if he smokes. He laughs and shows me his hand: The pen he’s holding is squeezed between his index and middle ﬁngers, like a cigarette. “I smoked Lexington and always said if I make it to 50, I’d quit. Before I knew it, I was 50. I’ll never forget, it was a Monday morning, and everyone knew I was planning to quit that day. Babes couldn’t handle it. She gave me a carton of cigarettes as a present! I said: ‘Jinne, jong! Wat maak jy nou?’ And she said: ‘I don’t think you should quit – you’ll be impossible!’ “I smoked until October that year. I was still 50… One morning, I decided that I wouldn’t smoke that day. I walked around with a pack of cigarettes in my

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PROFILE Elvis Presley and V8s – Chev Impalas and Chev Biscaynes… The food and drinks and cigarettes cost more than the petrol. Back then you didn’t budget for fuel, you just ﬁlled your tank for 35c per gallon. “In 1964, I drove an 8-cylinder Biscayne from Willowmore to my brother in Vereeniging – 80 – 85 miles per hour. There was no speed limit back then and we drove fast. The petrol to Vereeniging cost R22. Unbelievable! If you paid that little for fuel in Willowmore today, your tank would be empty before you reached Beervlei Dam!”

shirt pocket for two weeks. The pack wore through after a while, but I never smoked again.”

VISIT BABES SE WINKEL

The shop is open on weekdays from 9 am to 1 pm, and from 2 pm to 5 pm. On Saturdays it closes at 1 pm and on Sundays it’s open from 11 am to noon.

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Gustav is in a reminiscing mood today. He groans as he sits down behind a desk; the surface strewn with papers, a pocketknife, a calculator and packets of Marie biscuits. “I have rugby knees,” he says. “If I never played rugby, I would have been ﬁne. I was a ﬂanker for Willowmore. Number 6 – a fun position. I always said I’d play rugby until I was 30 and then I’d get married. Babes knew it. But then I was in a car accident and couldn’t play any more. Babes didn’t want to wait any longer. We got married in 1969, just before I turned 29. “I drove a black Chev Impala in those years – we went to the Kruger Park for our honeymoon. We entered the park at Punda Maria and drove to Pafuri then down to Shingwedzi, Letaba, Satara, Pretoriuskop… We spent two weeks in the park. “I left home with R300 in traveller’s cheques from Volkskas Bank. We paid for the accommodation in advance, but the other costs – petrol, food, cigarettes, beer… I drank long toms like it was going out of fashion and we still had money left when we returned home. “Ai, those were the best years,” he continues. “It was the time of

Gustav makes us each a cup of tea and we return to the stoep. The weather is clearing up and Strepies is basking in a sunny spot. No rain for the Baviaanskloof today, it seems. Another vehicle pulls up and a young man calls from the bottom of the garden: “Môre-môre! I brought the trailer.” “Thanks, Hancu, leave it there under the tree,” Gustav calls. Then, to me, he says: “This trailer also has a story. I was in Willowmore last Friday. The antique shop owner there is interested in a cupboard and a table of mine, and ag, some other things of mine he wants to sell. He knew I’d be coming into town again this Friday, so he suggested I take his trailer and bring the furniture, saving him a trip. But I’m forgetful in my old age and I forgot to hitch it up – I only remembered when I was already halfway home. So, I went to Nico Smith on his farm, Uitspan, to borrow his trailer, but then we had a whiskey and I forgot that trailer too! When I got home, I called Nico and asked him to ﬁnd someone to bring me the trailer. And here it is. “We’re a close-knit community. Everyone knows everyone. We care about each other. I thank the Lord for the privilege of growing up and growing old here. I would never adjust to life somewhere else. “The young farmers still include me. I’m not lonely. It’s just the evenings alone that get to me. I hope I die suddenly – I don’t want to end up in an old-age home or a care facility… My children know: They must scatter my ashes in the spring on Sewefontein. And then I’ll haunt the place!” He scratches Strepies with his foot. “Until then, this cat is my tjommie.”

Wake up on the Wild Coast The Wild Coast might be rugged and remote, but it has no shortage of comfortable places to stay. These 10 spots have soft mattresses, level camping stands and splendid views of the coastline. WORDS & PICTURES FRANÇOIS HAASBROEK

Mdumbi Beach

WILD COAST

h, the Wild Coast, where green hills tumble into the ocean, where the rivers have hidden waterfalls, where the beaches are deserted… The landscape, punctuated by cattle and rondavels, hasn’t changed much over the last few decades. It’s the heartland of the amaXhosa people and save for a few busy spots like Coffee Bay and Port St Johns, you feel more like a guest than a tourist. There are new tar roads and bridges in the pipeline, but for now, this corner of the Eastern Cape between the Kei and Mtamvuna rivers is still wild and pristine. Several other rivers also empty into the sea along this stretch, making it almost impossible to travel along the coastline. Places might only be a few kilometres apart as the oystercatcher flies, but it can take hours to travel between them because you have to head inland to find a bridge. But who’s complaining? The abundant natural beauty means that every place to stay – be it a backpacker lodge, caravan park, self-catering house or family hotel – has a sea view and a beach that’s even prettier than the last one.

M nga zi

Libode R61

R61

Mthatha

Lusikisiki vu

R61

Cremorne Estate The Gates

Manteku Camp

Port St Johns

Silaka Nature Reserve

Mtha

Ngqeleni

tha

Mqanduli Ngcwanguba

Elliotdale

Xora Mba

Dutywa

Fort Malan N q a b R408

Willowvale Qho

Kentani Ke i

she

Swell Eco Lodge Mdumbi Backpackers Seaview Cottage Coffee Bay White Clay Resort Hole in the Wall Hotel & Holiday Village Wild Lubanzi

arha

Dwesa-Cwebe Nature Reserve

rha

Cebe Transkei Beach Cottage Wavecrest Trennerys Hotel Kei Mouth Morgan Bay

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Hluleka Nature Reserve

In di an O cean 20 km

FOR THE FAMILY

1 Trennerys

When I pull up at the reception office, a guest in a Toyota Fortuner stares at my Mahindra Scorpio. “Looks like you also came prepared for dirt roads. When I came here on my motorbike five years ago, all the roads were dirt,” he says a little glumly. These days, the road from the pont over the Kei River is tarred, which makes it even easier to stay at Trennerys. The hotel is aimed at families. It has trampolines, playgrounds, a tennis court and a swimming pool. If you want to go have a drink in the bar, do a hike or go on a boat cruise, you can book a childminder (from R80 per hour for up to two kids) and there’s also a dedicated kiddies’ room. The lounge area is a comfy place to read or have a coffee and there are communal braai facilities if you don’t want to eat in the restaurant. You’ll enjoy your stay so much you’ll consider moving here! Facilities: The campsite has 10 stands with shade, power points and ablution facilities. There are two rondavels and 15 chalets that sleep two people each. The 19 family chalets sleep four people each. Niggles? The camping stands don’t have their own braai facilities. Rates: Camping R295 per adult; R110 per child aged 4 – 12; R85 per child under 4. Chalets from R1 085 per adult, all meals included; half-price for kids aged 4 – 12; R130 per child under 4. The restaurant serves a seafood buffet on Saturday nights: R150 per person. How to get there? The hotel is about 6 km north of Kei Mouth – take the pont over the Kei River (R100 per vehicle). Contact: 047 498 0004; trennerys.co.za

PEACE AND QUIET

2 Transkei Beach Cottage

Max, a big bull mastiff with the temperament of a Maltese poodle, greets me at the gate. He might think that he owns the place, but Barry Sahd is actually in charge. He grew up in the area and speaks better isiXhosa than I do English. Barry spots my guitar in the back of my vehicle and half an hour later we’re gathered in his house with his girlfriend Martie Botha, each of us with a glass of whiskey and a vetkoek. I’m playing guitar and Barry is behind the piano. On his lap is Tictoc, a small Jack Russell, now fast asleep. There’s about 20 m of lawn between the front door of the Beach Cottage and the beach itself. You can fish from the lawn at spring tide. There’s no shop here, but there is a big vegetable garden where guests can harvest spinach, tomatoes and lettuce. You won’t have to compete with other beachgoers for the best patch of sand. Walk down to the water and look for the hole in the rocks that fills up with the tide. “It’s our natural jacuzzi,” says Barry. Barry is a good guy to know. “If you run into

trouble, give me a call,” he says when I get ready to hit the road again. “No matter where you are, I’ll know a foreman who knows a foreman who can help you. We have good people around here.” Facilities: The accommodation is no-frills. It’s a simple rondavel with a double bed and two bunk beds inside. The bathroom and kitchen are in a separate room next door. Barry’s house is behind the rondavel. During my visit, Barry was busy building a cottage behind the rondavel – it should be completed by December 2021. Niggles? Cebe is a tiny settlement with only nine plots, but the houses are quite close together. Transkei Beach Cottage is private – a high fence separates the house from its neighbour, but it also obstructs your view of the coastline. The proximity of the beach makes up for it. Rates: From R1 000 per night. How to get there? Follow the tar road to the village of Kentani. From there, follow the Wavecrest dirt road for 28 km until you reach the turn-oﬀ to Cebe. Contact: 073 143 0324

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WILD COAST

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

3 Wild Lubanzi

“In a hole in the ground there lived a hobbit…” At Wild Lubanzi you can stay in a unit straight out of JRR Tolkien’s famous story. Indeed, this backpacker lodge has an otherworldly quality. The Hobbit House is built into a hill – a round front door completes the picture. The main house looks like the dream house I always drew as a child: Stairs, ladders and boardwalks connect various decks where daybeds, hammocks and swing chairs invite you to take an afternoon nap or relax with a sundowner. Lizani Smith shows me around. She arrived as a backpacker seven years ago and now lives here. “Even when it’s quiet, it’s busy,” she says. “The construction work never stops.” Dylan Massyn also came to Lubanzi as a guest and now works here permanently. If you live in such a remote spot, you have to be able to do a little of everything. He built the new restaurant himself and is also the cook. If you don’t want to prepare your own meals in the communal kitchen, order a meal or food parcel from Dylan. Try the breakfast fry-up (R75), chicken wrap (R75) or Thai green curry (R95). Even if you don’t stay here, you can order food ( 084 344 0039). Facilities: The Hobbit House sleeps three people – there’s a double bed and a daybed. This is

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the only accommodation option with an en suite bathroom. There are three tents on decks – Milkwood, Silver Oak and Strelitzia – that sleep three people each. The Spekboom tent sleeps two people. The High Tide Dorm sleeps eight people, and you can also camp here. All these accommodation options share a communal kitchen and bathrooms in the main house, and they all have views of Lubanzi Beach. Hole-in-the-Wall is a 5 km walk away. Niggles? One of the benefits of staying on a hill is the views. One of the drawbacks is that you have to walk up a hill when you want to go to the bathroom! Rates: Camping R80 per person. High Tide Dorm R145 per person. Tents from R380 per night for two people – 40% discount if you stay for longer than a week. The Hobbit House from R650 per night for two people – 25% discount if you stay longer than a week. The discounts are only for low season. How to get there? Take the Coffee Bay offramp from the N2. Drive 50 km (fill your tank at Mqanduli; it’s the last filling station). Turn right at the sign to the Zithulele Hospital at Dube village. After 17 km, turn right to Lubanzi. The last 5 km are along a dirt road. Contact: 078 530 8997; wildlubanzi.co.za

GALLO/GETTYIMAGES.COM

FOR THE FAMILY

4 Hole in the Wall Hotel & Holiday Village

You can’t stay any closer to the Wild Coast’s most famous landmark, Hole-in-the-Wall. It’s only 1 km away. The hotel is also close to Coffee Bay, and what you lose in terms of remote location, you gain in luxuries you won’t find in the bundu: a restaurant, two bars, the La Vita spa… As the name suggests, it feels more like a village than a hotel. The chalets and rondavels are spread across the premises. You can choose whether you want to stay on the hill with a view, or near the trees and the beach. It’s great for families: There’s a swimming pool, lawns, a playground and an activity club for the kids. On more isolated stretches of the Wild Coast, you don’t have to lock your door. Here, however, you have to be a little more careful. The hotel is fenced, with guards at every entrance. They keep the chancers out and the kids in! Facilities: There’s a range of accommodation options, including rondavels and self-catering units that sleep 2 – 8 people. There are also backpacker-style en suite double rooms that share a communal kitchen. Niggles? Some of the facilities look a little tired, but they were renovating the restaurant at the time of my visit. There are also “guides” that pester you outside the hotel, trying to convince you that you’ll get lost on the way to Hole-in-the-Wall. You won’t – it’s just around the corner. Rates: Backpacker double room from R270 per night. Rondavel (sleeps two) from R540. Chalets from R675 per night for two people to R2 520 for eight people. How to get there? The hotel is about 9 km south of Coffee Bay. Contact: 047 575 0009; firstgroup-sa.co.za/hole-in-the-wall

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WILD COAST

PITCH YOUR TENT

5 White Clay Resort

You won’t find a better place to camp in the Coffee Bay area. The resort is small, so it won’t get too crowded – and it’s right next to a beach. The stands are on terraces: Even if you’re in the back row, you’ll have an unobstructed view of the sea. The resort is about a kilometre from Coffee Bay. If you don’t mind a steep hill, you can walk there for a morning cuppa at the Coffee Shack. But White Clay also has a restaurant, bar and shop, so you don’t have to leave the grounds if you don’t want to. Facilities: Each stand has power, and the ablution facilities are clean and neat. There are also 12 selfcatering chalets that sleep 2 – 11 people. Niggles? There are a few trees in the campsite, but it’s not exactly like you’re camping in a forest. Bring a gazebo if you want to spend a lot of time at your tent during the day. Rates: Camping from R120 per person. Chalets from R300 per person (no meals) or from R750 per person (all meals included). How to get there? The resort is south of Coffee Bay. The campsite is on a steep hill but all the tricky parts are paved, so you can camp in any vehicle. Contact: 083 262 5239; whiteclayresort.co.za

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FOR THE INTROVERT

6 Seaview Cottage

This cottage is high on a hill, with a view of the waves and the Mthatha River estuary in the distance. The veranda is sheltered – you can enjoy that view even when the wind picks up. The beach looks like it’s far away, but it’s only a 700 m walk or a 1,2 km drive. And you have your own garden! Owner Mark Hullett built the cottage himself. “A lot of the profit goes towards maintenance,” he says. “But as long as guests leave here feeling peaceful and calm, and with the knowledge that places like this still exist, I’m happy.” Caretaker Donald lives nearby and will be on hand if you need help. He knows the best fishing spots and where you can find fresh seafood. Facilities: It’s a self-catering cottage with two bedrooms, sleeping eight people in total. There’s a fully equipped kitchen and a braai. Niggles? It’s not easy to find! Add this waypoint to your GPS before you leave: S31.94917 E29.17182. I travelled in a 4x2 Mahindra Scorpio, but a 4x4 is recommended. Rates: From R900 per night. How to get there? Driving from Coffee Bay towards the N2, turn right after 1,2 km – it’s the first turn-off after you cross the Nenga River outside town. Follow this dirt road for 3,5 km and turn left. Turn right after 700 m. Seaview Cottage is on the left, after another 700 m. Contact: airbnb.com/rooms/20596501

FOR THE YOUNG AT HEART

7 Mdumbi Backpackers

Being as remote as Mdumbi comes with a price. Early in the evening I hear a loud bang and then the whole place goes dark. I ask Bongani Span at the reception desk whether it’s loadshedding, but even that vague hope disappears when I hear Eskom’s hold music blaring from his cellphone… The power is still down when I leave the next morning. A herd of cattle took advantage of the darkness to break through the fence during the night and I watch them being chased off before I depart. But having no power is a small price to pay to see one of the most magnificent beaches on the Wild Coast. Facilities: A backpacker lodge is no longer a place where dreadlocked Swedes play didgeridoo until 2 am. Most backpackers on the Wild Coast offer private rooms alongside their dorm options. Mdumbi has several rondavels with dorm rooms (sleeping 3 – 13 people), plus double rooms, family rooms and twin-sleeper safari tents under a thatched awning. The campsite has shade, and each stand has a wooden partition between you and your neighbour. All the accommodation

options share a communal ablution block, lounge area, dining hall and kitchen. If you want to do your own thing, Mdumbi also has one fully equipped self-catering house that sleeps seven people. There’s a playground in the shape of a ship behind the backpackers, where the kids can burn off their energy. This is also where you’ll find the best cellphone reception, and the best view of the coastline. Niggles? The camping stands are small. They’re suitable for tents, but it will be a squeeze with a caravan… Rates: Camping R115 per person. Dorm room R195 per person. Safari tent R400 per night for two people. Double rondavel R420 per night for two people. Family rondavel R590 per night for three people. Self-catering house R2 000 per night. How to get there? From the N2, follow the road to Coffee Bay for 70 km and turn left onto the Umdumbi dirt road. Drive 10 km and turn right at the Mdumbi Backpackers sign. The establishment is about 8 km further along this road. Contact: 083 461 1834; mdumbi.co.za

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WILD COAST

FOR THE GREENIES

8 Swell Eco Lodge

The rust-brown rondavels of this lodge overlook the hills of the Mngcibe settlement, and the Indian Ocean. Owner Justin Sanders has been holidaying on the Wild Coast since he was 16 years old. In 1998, he visited the village of Mdumbi and explored the other side of the Mdumbi River. “I loved how remote it was, and the unique view over the Mdumbi estuary,” he says.“I originally came here to surf and ﬁsh, but I fell in love with the landscape and the people.” Three years later, with the blessing of the local community, he bought a piece of land. And in 2013, Swell opened its doors. Justin and his wife Lee-Ann wanted to make the lodge as environmentally friendly as possible. Waste management is especially important in such a remote area. All the rubbish produced by the lodge is sorted and reused where possible, and the rest is sent to Mthatha to be recycled. “Guests can help themselves to spinach, peppers and carrots in our vegetable garden,” Justin says. The lodge is only 1 km from the beach, and

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it has an inviting swimming pool with a deck overlooking the ocean. “We’re part of the community,” Justin adds. “Swell is a place where you get to experience the culture of the Wild Coast.” Facilities: The two en suite rondavels each sleep two people and share a communal kitchen. The two duplex rondavels each have two en suite double rooms and share a communal kitchen. The family rondavel has two bedrooms (one is a loft), a bathroom and a kitchen – there’s also a sleeper couch for two people in the living area. Niggles? The condition of the road can vary greatly. Call beforehand to check whether it’s traversable. Rates: En suite rondavel from R450 per person sharing. Duplex rondavel from R500 per person sharing. Family rondavel from R2 000 per night for up to six people (four adults). How to get there? From the N2, follow the road to Coﬀee Bay for 70 km and turn left onto the Umdumbi dirt road. Turn right after 17 km and drive 7 km to Swell Eco Lodge. Contact: 084 943 3947; swellecolodge.com

PITCH YOUR TENT

9 Cremorne Estate

This resort is under high cliffs next to the Mzimvubu River, about a 10-minute drive from Port St Johns. PSJ is a hive of activity during peak seasons, when tourists and locals flock to the shops, but Cremorne remains peaceful. I’m staying in one of the Fisherman’s Cottages – basically an upscale Wendy house and when a storm arrives at midnight, it feels as if the cabin is swaying with every gust of wind! The next morning, I expect to open my door to total devastation, but every leaf is in its place and a rowboat with a fisherman floats past on the quiet river. Bliss. If you like fishing, there’s a slipway where you can launch your boat, or just cast a line close to your camping stand. No nibble? Order seafood at the à la carte restaurant and bar. Before you know it, your holiday will be over and you didn’t even need to go into town once! Facilities: In the campsite, each stand has a power point and a row of bushes to separate you from your neighbour. Stand #5 has the most shade, plus a small thatched awning. The Fisherman’s Cottages are an affordable option – small, basic thatched cabins with two bunk beds inside, sharing a communal ablution block with the campers. There are also self-catering cottages and B&B double rooms available. A lawn separates the cottages from the camping stands close to the water. Niggles? Sharks occur in the river mouth. Don’t swim in the river – rather have a dip in the swimming pool. Rates: Camping R290 per person. Fisherman’s Cottages from R430 per person. Self-catering R2 320 per night for two people. B&B R1 295 per person. How to get there? The resort is north of the Mzimvubu River before you enter Port St Johns on the R61. Turn onto the Ferry Point dirt road – Cremorne is on the right after 1 km. It’s tar for most of the way – only the last kilometre is dirt. You can tow your caravan there, no problem. Contact: 047 564 1110; cremorne.co.za

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WILD COAST 4X4 ONLY

BRING YOUR FRIENDS

10 Manteku Camp

Pondo Beach Camps manage three tented camps between Port Edward and Port St Johns: Msikaba, Luphuthana and Manteku. The three camps are also overnight spots on the Pondo Slackpacking Trail. When the camps aren’t occupied by hikers, you can book them for a laid-back stay. Manteku has 12 safari tents in a coastal forest next to a bend in the Mzintlava River, near its mouth. When I arrive, the wind is pumping. On the beach, it feels like my legs are being sandblasted, but back at camp it’s so protected there’s barely a breeze next to the river. Manteku oﬀers the best of the Wild Coast: a pristine beach that you’ll only share with a few people (and some cows) even at the height of peak season. Facilities: Each safari tent sleeps two people – the camp has space for 24 people in total. The en suite tents are built on a deck under a roof and are sheltered. The tents share a communal braai area and kitchen. The camp is remote, so bring everything you’ll need. The friendly caretaker, Andrew Mavela, keeps an eye on things and is very helpful. Niggles? The last 200 m to the tented camp are steep and rocky. Don’t drive this stretch if you don’t have a 4x4. If you’re worried, there’s safe parking on top of the hill for R50 per day. From there, it’s about a 500 m to camp. Rates: R390 per adult sharing; R275 per child under 12; free for children under 6. You can also book the entire tented camp for R7 800 per night (minimum two nights). During peak season, the camp can only be booked in its entirety: R8 760 per night, for a minimum of ﬁve nights. How to get there? Follow the R61 from The Gates in Port St Johns to Lusikisiki, drive 22 km and turn right at the Matane sign. From there, it’s 23 km along a dirt road to Manteku Camp. Contact: 031 536 8005; pondobeachcamps.co.za

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Whimsical West Coast escapes

At Fork West Farm, near Dwarskersbos, you’ll have kilometres of wild beach all to yourself.

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Namaqua Flower Camp (Skilpad) Kamieskroon

Namaqua National Park

Nor thern Cape

Hondeklip Bay Garies

Western Cape

Namaqua Flower Camp (Groen River mouth)

At la ntic O cea n

Nuwerus

Strandfontein

Lutzville Vredendal

Vanrhynsdorp

Lambert’s Bay Steenbokfontein Sea Farm The Berries

Clanwilliam Elands Bay

Fork West Farm Tin Shack Sea Shack

Citrusdal

Dwarskersbos St Helena Bay Paternoster

From sleeping in a shack that hugs the shoreline to glamping in a field of Namaqualand daisies, spice up your next weekend away with these six unique accommodation options on the West Coast. BY KYRA TARR

once spoke to an artist, Marlouw Walters, who’d lived on the West Coast for most of her life. She told me that she moved away because the sea, wind and sand had become too much for her. Barely a year passed after our conversation, and she had already moved back! Whatever the West Coast means to you – surfer’s paradise, ancient landscape ﬁlled with fossils and history, quiet retreat, home – it seems that the sea, wind and sand tend to stick. In a good way. Here’s a collection of unique stays in the region, each a far cry from your average holiday lock-up. Whether the ocean is on the horizon or on your doorstep, get ready to rise and fall asleep with the tide.

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WEST COAST

IN OTHER WORDS MELDENE ROBINSON Crayﬁsh Wharf, Paternoster “A visit to the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve is a must. The lighthouse is beautiful.” HUGOLINA HICKMAN Timeless Treasures, Dwarskersbos “My love for Dwarskersbos began in the late 1950s, when my family would camp here during the holidays. The beaches are ideal for swimming – beautiful, clean and safe!” RASHID SAKAMA Fork West Farm “I moved here from Malawi in 2014. The West Coast is not only beautiful, but its people are warm and friendly.”

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Weskus Quarry on Steenbokfontein Sea Farm, Lambert’s Bay

Steenbokfontein Sea Farm is a vast and beautiful potato farm 9 km south of the harbour town of Lambert’s Bay. It’s home to the Burger family and has been for the past six generations. The current “Farmer Burger” at the helm is Albert. His wife Carol is warm and exuberant, often roaring past in a 4x4 and plying you with local food and drink: chops from Pietie se Vleishuis; fresh farm bread; goat’s cheese from Betty Bok; and potatoes from their own harvest. To get to Weskus Quarry (one of many accommodation options on the farm), you drive over the Sishen-Saldanha railway line and up a rocky outcrop to where the cabins await. As the name suggests, the cabins are in an old quarry – the same one that supplied the stone to build the Lambert’s Bay harbour. But what the name doesn’t tell you is how utterly magniﬁcent it is. There are two hokkies, as Carol calls them, each clinging to the steep side of the outcrop, with a view over the farm and miles of ocean. Each unit sleeps two people in snug quarters and has a small seating area in front to enjoy the view. The decor and amenities are earthy and stylish. There’s also a caravan permanently parked in the quarry. The quarry units share a kitchen and bathrooms (both also built against the rock face) so it’s a great place to book for a weekend with friends. For those interested in a more secluded escape, there are two more accommodation options nearby: Weskus Hokkie, a one-bedroom beach shack that sleeps two; and Weskus Grotjie, another two-sleeper built into a rock face.

“I wanted to incorporate nature into everything,” says Carol, who tells the story of the farm with passion. Steenbokfontein’s original farmhouse was built in 1864 and was converted into a restaurant, Die Plaaskombuis, by Albert’s late mother, Kitta. “Ma Kitta” is also responsible for building the labyrinth below the quarry (pictured, right). After her passing on Valentine’s Day in 2021, the Burgers encourage guests to walk it in her memory. Steenbokfontein Caves are a short walk from the quarry and contain rock paintings at least 8 000 years old. They depict giant buffalo, eland, elephant and lion – animals that no longer roam this part of the world. Other activities include flower tours on a tractor during spring, abseiling, rock climbing, surfing and braaiing on the beach. The Burgers’ daughters, Cara and Anika, will soon plant their own roots here. Cara is studying law and hopes to use her degree to protect the West Coast; Anika plans to take over her grandmother’s restaurant. They will be the seventh generation of Burgers to live on Steenbokfontein. Where? 9 km south of Lambert’s Bay, via the R365. Rates: Weskus Quarry from R750 per night; Grotjie from R950 per night; Hokkie from R950 per night. See their website for more. Minimum two-night stay, depending on the season. Contact: 083 458 1575 (Carol); westcoastwonders.co.za

The Berries, Elands Bay

“If something is ‘the berries’ it’s like saying it’s the bee’s knees or the cat’s whiskers in surfer slang,” says Gerry van Rensburg, owner of this bungalow in surf mecca, Elands Bay. Gerry lives in Kommetjie for most of the year, where he works as an architect, carpenter and builder, but he escapes to Elands as often as possible. He started building the house in 2007, after having owned the plot for a decade. “Most of it was built by my own hands, almost entirely from upcycled and salvaged materials and components,” he says. The rustic log bungalow has two bedrooms that sleep two people each, and a bunk room with two bunk beds (sleeping four). The bunks are separated from the lounge area by a curtain, which can be drawn for privacy, and there’s a large deck that looks out over Gerry’s indigenous garden and a fire pit. “The house was originally supplied in kit form by T&B Log Homes in Knysna. It was used as staff quarters at Groote Schuur Hospital back in the day,” Gerry explains. “I acquired it in 2006 while working on a home for one of my clients. I documented, dismantled and stored the house until it was practical to transport the components to Elands Bay. I rebuilt it there, albeit in an entirely different configuration.” Touches of Gerry’s creativity can be seen all over the property: He uses surfboard pieces and boat railings as finishes in the bathroom and has populated the garden with interesting finds like shells, anchors and buoys, which hang from the tree beside the fire pit. The Berries is a personal and inviting space. It smells like timber, fynbos and the sea breeze. There’s no Wi-Fi, but there is a shelf with great books, and a couch that gets just enough sun for that much-needed afternoon nap. Elands Bay has seen significant development over the past few years, but The Berries remains the kind of place where a family can gather to enjoy each other’s company – and where it’s still okay to walk around with sandy feet. Where? 8 Snoek Street, Elands Bay South Rates: From R1 700 per night, sleeps eight. Contact: 082 338 9609 (Gerry); gerry@sealevelstudio.co.za

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WEST COAST

Fork West Farm, Dwarskersbos

It’s difficult to appreciate the ocean’s vastness in a beach town filled with jolly holiday-goers, but that’s not the case when you stand on the dune in front of your tent on Fork West Farm. The farm spans 40 km of coastline between Elands Bay and Dwarskersbos. The Atlantic meets pearly white sand and – for the duration of your stay – this seemingly endless beachfront is your personal playground. Fork West Farm has been in the Uebel family for 33 years and is currently run by Reinhard and his wife Theresa. “We put up the first tent for our own use, but interest from friends and family grew and now we’re a three-tent facility,” Reinhard says with a laugh. The three tents are: Fork North, Middle Fork and Fork South. Each sleeps two guests on a double bed and has an en suite bathroom with a shower and flush toilet. The tents have electricity and a kitchenette with all the essentials to rustle up a good meal. To the front is a small deck that looks out on the dunes, and at the back is a private braai area sheltered from the wind. The tents are set snugly between the dunes and surrounded by kersbos and taaibos shrubs. If you wake up early and go sit on the deck, you’ll spot duiker and steenbok grazing furtively in the morning light. A short 500 m walk over the dunes will deposit you right on the beach, where your only company will be seagulls and other birdlife, including cormorants, common terns and African black oystercatchers. A long beach walk is a must during your stay. Reinhard reports seeing dolphins and the odd Cape fur seal playing in the waves. Take a sundowner to the top of the dunes. No two sunsets are the same. At night you’ll feel vibrations from the waves breaking on the beach as you lie in bed. You’d think it would be disconcerting, but rather it’s a reminder that Mother Earth is very much alive. Where? 28 km north of Dwarskersbos on the Dwarskersbos Road. Rates: R1 300 per night. Contact: 067 336 6862 (Theresa); westcoastluxurytents.co.za; Fork West Farm is pet-friendly

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TOAST COETZER BRIGETTE RADEMEYER

Tin Shack, St Helena Bay

High on a hill behind St Helena Bay sits the Tin Shack; a cabin built from used shipping containers on a smallholding owned by Bryan and Marna Williams. The interior is industrial chic meets country comfort. There are two identical en suite bedrooms (kitted with eco-toilets) separated by a large living and kitchen area. The living space leads to a deck with a wood-ﬁred hot tub (bonus!), kettle braai and a hammock. Up here you’ll feel like a sentinel presiding over all you see – the view is that vast. On a clear day you can even see the Cederberg! In 2018, Marna and Bryan moved from Gauteng to St Helena Bay. They wanted to escape the rat race in Joburg and embrace a lifestyle more attuned with nature. Bryan is actually British and grew up in Cornwall. “Our dream was to be self-sustainable,” says Marna. It occurred to Bryan that the containers, which were originally intended for storage, would make the perfect “building blocks” for a house. “We loved the idea of repurposing available material,” says Marna. The couple currently lives in a container, which will become part of their own house, while creating their ideal set-up on the smallholding. Part of that set-up was Tin Shack. “We always planned to build a guest unit,” Marna continues. “After watching a few YouTube videos and researching container homes on the Internet, we realised that we could do the work ourselves. We’re both pretty handy. “Even on days when the wind blows and I wonder, ‘What on earth have we done?’ I look out over the bay and realise, there is no alternative for us. This is the way it was meant to be.” Where? 11 Vasco Da Gama Drive, St Helena Bay Rates: Monday to Thursday R1 350 per night for two people; Friday to Sunday R1 550 per night for two people. For both, the rate per extra guest is R250; plus R200 one-oﬀ cleaning fee. Minimum stay two nights. Contact: 076 442 3239 (Marna); the-tin-shack.business.site

Sea Shack, Paternoster

The answer to your bohemian dream of living on the beach is here. Sea Shack, in its pastel blue and sea-green hues, takes the small house trend and deposits it right on the shore of Cape Columbine Nature Reserve. There are 14 units, each of which sleeps two. Five are beachfront shacks; five are garden shacks and there are three wooden “tents”. There is also a family unit called SpongeBob, which sleeps two adults and can be fitted with a cot and a small child’s bed. Each shack is the brainchild of local artist, Dianne Heesom-Green. The camp is situated between Paternoster and Tietiesbaai in a small cove reminiscent of the Mediterranean Coast. All that exists between you and the ocean is a sandbar and a few tidal pools where you can search for starfish and other shy creatures in the shallows. You’ll have the run of the entire reserve during your stay. Wander the lonely coast for miles; take a dip if you’re brave enough; or marvel at the Cape Columbine Lighthouse – one of the first South African lighthouses spotted by ships coming from Europe. Back at camp, each shack is equipped with a queen-sized bed, shelves and linen. (Bring your own towels.) The tents come with two stretcher beds. All units are solar-powered with enough juice for lights and phone chargers, though hairdryers may prove a bit of a challenge. The kitchen and ablution blocks are shared. There are four gas-powered showers and five eco-toilets. Come unplug and sit around the campfire, savouring each sunset and the simple life beside the shore. Where? Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, Paternoster Rates: Shacks R850 per night; tents R550 per night; SpongeBob R950 per night. Contact: 079 820 6824 (Manerva); seashack.co.za

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WEST COAST

FOR THE ANNIVERSARY

Namaqua Flower Camps, Namaqua National Park

CHIEFS TENTED CAMPS

Your day begins with a flask of boiling water dropped off outside your tent at 7 am. After reluctantly leaving your cosy bed (complete with an electric blanket) to retrieve it, you zip open the flap and take in the world outside. It’s glorious. Fresh and untamed, with flowers dusting the hillside in neon orange, fuchsia and gentle lilac. Morning sun plays off the ocean and your lungs breathe wild, salty air. Make no mistake. It’s chilly out there, but you don’t mind. After wrapping yourself in your warmest jacket, you pour a cup of plunger coffee and get comfortable in one of the camping chairs in front of your tent. It’s the start of another tough day in Africa… Each spring, Chiefs Tented Camps set up two seasonal flower camps, Beach near the Groen River mouth and Skilpad, both in the Namaqua National Park. The camps border pans full of daisies and vygies, which means you can enjoy the flowers at leisure, as opposed to taking a quick drive past. Each en suite tent (8 m x 4 m) has two three-quarter beds or a queen-size bed, linen, carpets, a luggage rack, comfy camping chairs, bedside tables and electric lanterns. The tents in Skilpad Flower Camp make use of chemical portaloos while Beach Camp has enviro loos and chemical portaloos. Hot water is available twice a day: Your shower bag is filled for you. It’s pricey but worth the expense. Your every need is catered to, including a full English breakfast, morning and afternoon tea and a three-course dinner. If you’re still peckish, you can order a picnic basket for two (R280) at lunchtime. The staff go the extra mile to make your stay as comfortable as possible. This includes switching on your electric blanket for you while you’re at dinner. Evening meals consist of a warm starter like lentil soup, followed by a hearty main and rounded off with a baked pudding. The dining area is decorated with kilims, candles and drapes – you’ll feel like you’re inside a Bedouin tent – and there’s a cash bar. The days are yours to fill as you wish. Sit in your chair and stare at the sea or drive around the park and see how many wildflowers you can identify. Nights offer an illumination of stars and a silence so deep you can almost hear the flowers folding shut in the moonlight. Where? The best route to Skilpad Flower Camp is via Kamieskroon, whereas the best route to Beach Flower Camp is through Garies. Visit flowercamps.co.za for detailed directions. Rates: R2 970 per person sharing; 2022 season from 19 August to 18 September. Contact: 071 260 6367 (Charmane); genevieve.maasdorp@sanparks.org Kyra’s two-night stay at Skilpad Flower Camp was courtesy of Chiefs Tented Camps.

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TAKE YOUR

PIC

Here are our latest reader photos, with tips from Toast Coetzer. Send your best shots to takeyourpic@gomag.co.za

WINNER GERRIE BOTHA

Canon EOS 7D Mark II Tamron 150 – 600 mm lens GERRIE WRITES: We live in a retirement village about 10 km outside Rustenburg, at the foot of the Magaliesberg. Some pearlspotted owlets made a nest in a tree on the premises, and I watched them breed. I wanted to show a friend the nest when this owlet suddenly burst from a mulberry tree and landed on the ground in front of us – with a young African greenpigeon in its talons!

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The owlet was about 10 m from us – we watched as it strangled its prey. I lay down on the ground to take photos in an attempt to get a neutral background. After about 10 minutes, the owlet flew off with the pigeon and disappeared behind a building. Pearl-spotted owlets are small but fierce! TOAST SAYS: What a photo! A stroke of luck brought Gerrie to this rare scene, but you also make your own luck. Knowing where a

bird is nesting is a good starting point because you know where its territory is centred. This allows you to see the bird more often, maybe even on the hunt. Gerrie’s photographic technique was as spot-on as the owlet’s hunting skills. His shutter speed was a fast 1/2 000 second in case the owlet ﬂew oﬀ, and the background is perfect. When you use a long lens and an aperture of f6.3, the background will be out of focus anyway, but had Gerrie taken the photo while standing up, it

wouldn’t have been as successful. Why? Well, the ground or road surface would have been much closer to the bird and therefore less blurry and more distracting. By lying down, Gerrie eﬀectively moved the background metres deeper into the frame, where it’s hazy enough to form a monotonous, neutral backdrop. The pearl-spotted owlet is the unmistakeable hero of this action ﬁlm! Well done, Gerrie, you win a go! camera bag.

TAKE YOUR PIC

ANDRIES COMBRINCK

Nikon D500 Nikon 600 mm lens

ANDRIES WRITES: This photo of white-faced whistling ducks in ﬂight is one of my favourites. They ﬂew past me a few times while I was in the Dinokeng Game Reserve. After several failed attempts, I got this shot. I focused on one duck as they approached and followed it – keeping it in focus – until they were right in front of me. My shutter speed was 1/640 second and my ISO 1 000. A little luck and some

assistance from the VR tech on my lens helped me get a sharp photo! TOAST SAYS: Sometimes a little luck goes a long way… Certain Nikon lenses have built-in VR (Vibration Reduction; also called IS – Image Stabilizer – on Canon lenses), which is technology that helps you get sharp photos even when you shoot handheld, like Andries did here. Capturing birds in ﬂight is

one of the hardest things to do in wildlife photography. Here are four things to keep in mind: • Use the fastest shutter speed possible to freeze the action – 1/1 000 second or higher. Increase your ISO to 800 or more to enable this fast shutter speed. • Make sure you understand the diﬀerent focus modes on your camera and put them to use. These modes are getting smarter and smarter. Some, like Predictive

Focus Tracking, can even tell the direction that objects are moving in and keep those objects in focus. At the very least, you should use Continuous mode (AF-C on Nikon; AI Servo on Canon) to help you track the bird as it ﬂies. • Invest in quality gear. You will get better results if you have a lens with image stabilisation technology. • Lastly, be patient! You might have to take hundreds of photos before you get something you can use.

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VICTOR WILSON

Canon EOS 60D Canon 24 – 105 mm lens

TOAST SAYS: This photo says one thing: Adventure! Victor snapped the scene on the Namakwa 4x4 Eco Trail, at the start of a challenging route known as The Road to Hell… You won’t see many wild animals on the route (it’s a semidesert), but you will see the odd herd of sheep and goats – nomadic farmers move through the area. The landscape has a rugged beauty even though it’s hostile and arid. You and your vehicle – and the others in your convoy – will become part of the visual story. Your friends at home will want to

GRAADJIE SMALL

Canon EOS 5D Mark III Canon EF 70 – 200 mm lens GRAADJIE WRITES: I photographed these zebras in the Pilanesberg Game Reserve. We were on one of our favourite routes, Mankwe Drive, travelling towards Tshwene Drive. About 500 m past the Fish Eagle turn-oﬀ, we came across this herd of zebra. It was 3.30 pm and I think they had just ﬁnished drinking at Mankwe Dam. We pulled over. One by one, the zebras moved closer to each other and rested their heads on each other’s backs. It was beautiful! Pilanesberg has been our refuge during the Covid-19 pandemic. We live in Centurion and the reserve is close enough to visit regularly. When we couldn’t spend time with our human friends, we went to see our animal friends. TOAST SAYS: Nature is unpredictable and that’s a good thing! Who knows how many times Graadjie

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has taken photos of zebras without them striking this kind of pose? The way the zebras are standing will make you smile, but the shot also has other merits. Graadjie was close to the zebras and the lens was wide open (instead of zoomed in) so all the animals are sharp, from head to tail. If you use a narrow aperture (f-stop) like f8 or even f11 or f16, you’ll get more of the scene in focus when shooting wide. The light is perfect and brings out the contrast between the black-and-white zebras, the green landscape (especially the one koppie in shadow) and blue sky. If you make a big print and put it in the right frame, it will brighten up any home. The zebras look great, as if they’ve just showered, put on clean clothes and polished their hoofs for the photo session!

TAKE YOUR PIC

know what the road looked like, how diﬃcult the passes were to traverse, how loose the sand was… Pull over where it’s safe (not in the middle of the most diﬃcult part of the pass!) and document the vehicle behind you moving through the landscape. Ask the driver to wait at the bottom of the pass until you’re at the top. Wave when you’re ready, and then take photos as they clamber their way up. Victor used a classic composition: The vehicle is in the bottom third of the frame, with the valley cutting away in the background. This adds depth to the scene and naturally leads your eye to the horizon.

HANNEKE FOURIEBENEKE

Nikon D7100 Nikon 200 – 500 mm lens

HANNEKE WRITES: We visited De Hoop Nature Reserve in the Western Cape last August. All the bontebok we saw were very territorial – the rams chased after each other and butted heads. These two mockcharged each other until one eventually moved off. My camera settings: shutter speed 1/640 second, aperture f6.3, ISO 160. TOAST SAYS: Action makes any wildlife photo stand out. A photo of two bontebok standing still and looking towards you is nice, but when they butt heads or leap through the air, your shot immediately has more impact. Although we can’t see the head of the antelope on the right, its front legs “flying” to the side make up for it. The scene is strengthened by the green background and yellow flowers. Sometimes the foreground or background can draw the attention away from the main subject, but here the antelope remain the lead actors and the flowers play a supporting role.

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TAKE YOUR PIC

SEND US YOUR BEST TRAVEL AND NATURE PHOTOS! WHY? We publish a selection of reader pictures in every issue. Don’t be shy, haul out those shots you’ve been hoarding on your computer and send them to us! We like just about anything: wildlife, landscapes, portraits, holiday snaps or bugs in your garden. HOW? Send your photos to takeyourpic@gomag.co.za Submit only your three best shots each month. Don’t send ﬁles bigger than 4 MB – if we need a bigger version, we’ll ask for it. Give the name, surname, home town and contact number of the photographer. Also include info about where and how the shot was taken, and what equipment was used. If you manipulated your photo in any way, tell us what you did. THE FINE PRINT We reserve the right to use your photos elsewhere in the magazine, on our digital platforms and marketing material. Want to sign up for our online photography course? Visit takebetterphotos.gomag.co.za We’re on Instagram! Follow us and our sister mag Weg for travel and wildlife pics: Search for @gomagsa and @menseselense

TAKE THE WINNING PHOTO You can win this durable camera bag worth R650! ALTA VAN DER WESTHUYZEN

Canon PowerShot SX60 HS

TOAST SAYS: If you’ve ever wondered why you should focus on the eyes of an animal, this photo will make you understand. Sjoe! The gaze of this martial eagle makes you feel like you could be its next meal… Alta managed to get close to the eagle. She took the photo in the Kruger Park, where raptors are used to the presence of vehicles. If you drive slowly and don’t make any sudden movements when winding down your window, you might get lucky and the birds won’t ﬂy oﬀ. Alta’s Canon PowerShot SX60 HS has a powerful built-in zoom lens. She would have had to stabilise the lens by resting her elbows on the car door or something similar. The camera automatically set the shutter speed to 1/250 second – fast enough if the bird doesn’t move suddenly. A wonderful photo!

This canvas bag has sturdy sides and a soft inner to protect your valuable gear. The compartments are adjustable to ﬁt your camera and lenses.

Product available at 64 go! #179

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ONLINE PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE SIGN UP NOW FOR OUR BRAND-NEW MODULE! Night photography places different demands on both camera and photographer. You want to capture the beauty of the night sky, but you struggle to find the correct settings and your camera can’t focus properly… Now what? This new photography course will teach you how to photograph the Milky Way, star trails, the city at night or anything else you’d like to snap after sunset.

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The understory COMPILED BY LYNNE FRASER

nderwater Photographer of the Year (UPY) is an annual competition that celebrates life beneath our oceans, lakes and rivers. From humble beginnings in 1965, the UK-based competition has grown and grown. In 2021, 4 500 photographs were entered by more than 400 photographers in 13 categories. International travel has largely been restricted due to the pandemic and many diving resorts have been unable to accept guests. As a result, hundreds if not thousands of people have been forced out of work across the industry. Winning prizes is a major motivation for entering photographic competitions, but due to the challenges facing the diving industry, UPY decided to make this year’s competition prize-free – photographers participated knowing they were competing only for kudos, in an eﬀort to rebuild the community. Get ready for next year’s competition! You’ll have to be quick: Entries can be submitted online until midnight 4 January 2022. Visit underwaterphotographeroftheyear.com for more information, and to see all the ﬁnalists from the 2021 competition.

66 go! #179

Sharks’ skylight

Renee Capozzola, United States French Polynesia is a scattering of islands in the Paciﬁc Ocean. The territory has strong legal protection for sharks, allowing them to thrive and balance the marine ecosystem. In August 2020, Renee visited the island of Moorea, which was open to visitors. She spent several evenings in the shallows at sunset, hoping to capture something unique. It took many attempts, but on this particular evening the water was calm, the sharks moved into a nice composition, and she got lucky with the birds. “Many shark species are threatened with extinction,” she says. “It’s my hope that images of these beautiful animals will help promote their conservation.” Renee entered her photo in the “Wide Angle” category, this image won the category and Renee was named Underwater Photographer of the Year 2021. HOW? Canon 5D Mark III; Canon 11 – 24 mm lens; shutter speed 1/200 second; aperture f20; ISO 400; dual Sea & Sea YS-D2 strobe; Nauticam housing

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Bowlander

Tobias Friedrich, Germany This incredible photograph of a wreck off Nassau in the Bahamas was the winner in the “Wrecks” category. Due to bad weather at Tiger Beach and in Bimini – two popular Bahamas dive destinations – Tobias had to look for shelter near Nassau, the capital, and do some dives there. “This wreck was totally new to me and a big surprise when we descended, as the bow extends almost completely off a sandy overhang,” he says. HOW? Canon EOS 1DX Mark II; Canon 8 – 15 mm lens; shutter speed 1/160 second; aperture f7.1; ISO 200; Seacam Seaflash 150D; Seacam Silver housing 68 go! #179

PORTFOLIO

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Marlin hunt

Karim Iliya, United States Karim captured this extraordinary photograph off the coast of Baja, Mexico: The fish are fleeing for their lives as they’re hunted by a striped marlin. “I went to Mexico to document these feeding frenzies but was not expecting such a fast-paced hunt,” Karim says. “For a brief moment, this scene unfolded before me and I had to rely on all my instincts and experience to take this photo. I used natural light and stayed on the periphery of the bait ball to minimise disturbance. Watching wild animals hunt is one of the greatest spectacles in nature.” His image was the winner in the “Behaviour” category. HOW? Canon 1D X Mark II; 16 – 35 mm lens; shutter speed 1/800 second; aperture f5; ISO 1 250 70 go! #179

PORTFOLIO

Guardian deity Ryohei Ito, Japan

This photo was taken off the coast of Tateyama, Japan. The fish is an Asian sheepshead wrasse. Interestingly, as it grows older, it changes sex from female to male, and develops a large lump on its head at the same time. According to Ryohei, this particular fish lives in a shrine under the water and looks just like a guardian deity. “I thought about the lighting and composition so that the bump and the powerful face could be captured,” he says. His photograph was the winner in the “Portrait” category. HOW? Canon 5D Mark IV; Canon 8 – 15 mm lens; shutter speed 1/200 second; aperture f22; ISO 200; Retra Flash Pro underwater strobe; Sea & Sea MDX-5D Mark IV housing

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The cut

Diana Fernie, Australia Diana was the winner in the “Black and White”category. She took this photograph at Leru Cut in the Solomon Islands, after having won a competition to spend 10 days on a liveaboard dive boat there. “Having dived these waters on two previous occasions, I knew what to expect, but I needed an elegant model for this composition,” she says. “My immediate companions could not be classiﬁed in any way as elegant! Fortunately, there was another photographer in my group whose beautiful wife was the perfect subject. Cheekily, I managed to capture a few shots of her as she posed for her husband.” HOW? Nikon D850; Nikkor 8 – 15 mm lens; shutter speed 1/125 second; aperture f4.5; ISO 1 250

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Thanks Santa!

GALLO/GETTYIMAGES.COM

Our editorial team travels far and wide every year, and we ﬁnd all kinds of useful and fun things we’d like to see under our own Christmas trees. Here are 21 of our favourite gift ideas.

SOPHIA VAN TAAK

BARRYDALE HAND WEAVERS CUSHION COVERS

When you buy something from this weaving mill in the Little Karoo, you’re supporting a community where employment is scarce. You can even go onto their website and ﬁnd out more about the speciﬁc weaver who made the creation you just bought. There’s a lot to buy! Everything from serviettes to placemats and blankets, all made from locally grown cotton and woven by hand. These cushion covers (50 x 50 cm) are available in red, light blue, dark blue, white, charcoal or grey stripes. R340 barrydaleweavers.co.za

FEAT. SOCKS

A pair of socks is no longer a boring gift – especially not these! Feat. has a huge range of designs: Choose traditional stripes or classic South African themes like whales, elephants, rhinos, the beach huts at Muizenberg… even Cape robin-chats! Also, 20% of the proﬁt is donated to the WWF. From R110 featsockco.com

KINDBRUSH

Take a moment and think of the number of plastic toothbrushes you’ll throw away during your lifetime if you replace your brush every three months as your dentist recommends… The Kindbrush is here to change that. It has a handle made from bamboo, sourced from a sustainable plantation in China. When the time comes to throw it away, you simply break it into small pieces and add it to your compost heap. Kindbrush is still searching for an alternative to the nylon bristles, but this attractive brush is already a step in the right direction. It’s available in ﬁve colours, and in diﬀerent sizes for adults and children. From R75 thekindbrush.com

ESMA MARNEWICK

SAPMOK FLIP-FLOPS

A flip-flop is a flip-flop, right? Not really. These are made from 30% recycled rubber, and the cork detailing gives them an earthy, serene vibe that makes them stand out in a sea of other brightly coloured slops. They’re so neat, you could wear them to the office! And they’re comfortable. You don’t need much more from a flip-flop. R280 sapmok.com

VIVOLICIOUS TIGHTS

These tights are designed and stitched locally. The designs are inspired by nature (ﬂowers, fynbos, giraﬀes), they’re made in limited numbers to keep them unique, and a percentage of sales is donated to the Flower Valley Conservation Trust. The fact that these pants are tested by ultra-distance athletes is an additional selling point. You can wear them in the mountains, to gym, or if you need to pick up the kids at school. From R829 vivolicious.co.za

SPOT IT! CARD GAME

This game (for 2 – 8 players) needs to be in every holiday house, caravan and camping crate. Once your kids can identify pictures, they’re old enough to play. It contains 55 cards with different pictures: spider, cheese, lips, igloo, cactus... Any two cards will have a picture in common. There are five different games, but the goal is always the same – the first one to “spot” the corresponding picture wins the card. R180 takealot.com

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TOAST COETZER

HANDMADE CATTY

A good old “catty” is something your uncle on the farm makes for you when you’re eight years old and you visit on holiday. He chooses the wooden fork himself, then he cuts strips oﬀ a tyre tube for the elastic part, and he uses the tongue of an old velskoen to create a cradle for a small stone. But not all of us have an uncle on a farm… That’s why we have Uncle Internet. You can buy a catty (elastic and all) from outdoorandallsales.co.za for R50, or from takealot.com for R189. REMEMBER: Only use it to shoot Coke cans on a corner post, not the white-eyes in a ﬁg tree…

CLASSIC KHAKI SHIRT

You might not be in the bush every day, but that shouldn’t stop you from dreaming that you’re a game ranger somewhere in the Lowveld. Wear this classic khaki shirt to the oﬃce and pretend your colleagues are impala. (Who’s the lion? You’re the lion!) This shirt even has epaulettes, so expect a salute or two from security guards. Khaki Fever’s shirts are made in Hoedspruit. In other words, they’re “bottled at the source” of all things bush. Special reader oﬀer: Shortsleeve and long-sleeve shirts for men and women R200 each. khakifever.co.za

MEAT FOR THOUGHT

With braaiing as the number one activity of the festive season, it’s worth thinking about where your meat comes from. Knowing your meat comes from a farm that embraces organic guidelines is good for your conscience and your health. Lowerland is a farm near Prieska in the Northern Cape, where Bertie Coetzee and his team produce quality lamb, pork and beef, as well as wine, nuts and ﬂour. They also deliver in the bigger cities. 083 349 9559 (Bertie); lowerland.co.za

AFRIKANIS RUM

Gin has had its moment in the sun for long enough. It’s time for rum to shine! Afrikanis Premium African Rum has the iconic Canis africanis dog as its logo and is produced by Dawid and Karlien de Wet from Graaﬀ-Reinet. It costs R475 per bottle. If you’re not a rum drinker, you can order hand cream or liquid soap (R90 each) or a funky “Loyal to the bone” T-shirt (R350). afrikanis.co.za

JON MINSTER

FIRST ASCENT JOURNEY TEE

Most of us are not competing to win the Cape Epic – there’s no need to wear a skin-tight jersey with pockets when you’re out riding your mountain bike. This wonderfully airy tee has been designed for all-day comfort. The arms are a great length, two thirds of the way down to the elbow, and the underarms are seamless to prevent chafing. The back is scooped for extra coverage when you’re seated on your bike and the fabric is lovely and light, offering airflow and sweat-wicking power in abundance. R699 firstascent.co.za

GEAR

MARTINETTE LOUW

ROCK RABBIT TRAILRUNNING PACK

LEZYNE BAR END MULTI-TOOL

Carrying tools on a mountain bike is a hassle. You end up with a bag under your seat (not great with a dropper post) or an unwieldy bundle of stuﬀ strapped to your frame. Lezyne has tried to solve this problem with this nifty multi-tool that slides into the open end of your mountain bike handlebars. It has 11 diﬀerent steel bits tha should cover you for most trail-side repairs. It only weighs 85 g and you don’t feel the extra weight in your handlebars at all. The best thing about the tool is that it’s instantly accessible when you need it, and quiet and invisible when you don’t. R995 twowheelstrading.co.za

This lightweight pack is made from a stretchy, moisture-wicking fabric and has 10 pockets: You can carry two soft 500 ml water bottles (R300 for both if you get Rock Rabbit ones), another 2-litre water bladder (not included; any after-market bladder will work) plus other necessities like your car keys, cellphone and a jacket. Never be stuck on the trail without a tissue again! Available in grey or navy with teal, lilac or coral accents. .co.za R1 399 rockrabb

KAROO FARM BOX

During the oppressive drought in the Karoo, Lani Lombard and her son-in-law Louis Steyn – both from Cradock in the Eastern Cape – came up with a bright idea: Fill boxes with quality products from the region to support farmers and entrepreneurs. There’s a range of boxes with diﬀerent products to choose from: wool slippers; mohair scarves, socks and blankets; leather belts and makeup bags; books about the Karoo; roosterkoek grids; boer soap… There’s even a box with a beach theme! From R1 999 karoofarmbox.co.za

UZWELO BEACH BAG

Do you want to look stylish on the beach and also do your bit for the environment? This beach bag is made from repurposed banner fabric, and it measures 57 x 49 x 19 cm, so there’s plenty of space for your sunglasses, towel, sunscreen and (reusable!) water bottle. There’s a range of patterns available, from this pretty coral colour to leopard print and tropical ﬂowers. 490 uzwelo.co.za

KILLAT KOTA MOON

In bike mode, this bag attaches to the front of your handlebars and has enough space for all the stuﬀ you’d usually store in your pockets. When you’re on foot, untuck the strap and it becomes a hip or shoulder bag for hiking and exploring. I use mine to carry a small camera, lightweight jacket, and a couple of energy bars. There are plenty of colours in this cotton duck fabric, and a range of colours in more hard-wearing ripstop nylon. It’s local, lekker and priced right for your next adventure. R595 killatgear.com

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GEAR PIERRE STEYN

CARMA QUIP BRAAI APRON

KYRA TARR

ZERO BARS

These proudly South African shampoo bars are the ideal gift for any hiker or travel fanatic. (Solid toiletries are all the rage at the moment…) Not only are Zero Bars compact (50 g) and easy to transport, they also have zero plastic packaging and use no water to produce. Each bar lasts up to 70 washes and contains a mixture of solid shampoos and natural ingredients – they’re much kinder to our waterways than regular shampoo. From R75 zerobar.co.za

BLUE BEE COCKTAIL SYRUP

This handcrafted honey- and sugar-based syrup, made in the seaside town of Kleinmond by Christo Bezuidenhout, is a tasty addition to any drink. Try their popular Rose Geranium ﬂavour, made from roses grown organically in Christo’s own garden. Other favourites are Lime & Toasted Spices, and Passion Fruit. From R150 bluebee.co.za

This company, based in the suburb of Durbanville in Cape Town, has built its reputation on comfortable and durable self-inﬂating camping mattresses. This braai apron is their latest innovation – it protects your clothing from fat spatter and also doubles as storage for your braai grid when you’re done ﬂipping chops. The exterior is made from a waterresistant material, while the inside is made from PVC that can easily be wiped clean. Once you’ve folded the apron, it can look after a grid up to 500 x 400 mm in size. R495 carmaquip.co.za

ZARTEK ZA-748 TWO-WAY RADIOS

If you’ve ever driven in a convoy in a place like the Kaokoveld in Namibia, you’ll know how crucial it is to communicate with each other – especially if there’s no cellphone signal and WhatsApp. This set of two-way radios from Zartek is perfect if you’re in one vehicle and you need to explain the driving line to your father-in-law in the other vehicle. The two compact handsets cost just a bit more than R1 000 and you don’t need a licence to use them. They have 16 pre-programmed channels and a reach of between 2 km and 6 km depending on the terrain. Choose a catchy call sign and head for the bush! R1 099 zartek.co.za

HI-TEC GEO-TRAIL PRO HIKING BOOTS

These light and tough hiking boots were my ﬁnd of the year. They tackled hikes in the Great Karoo, Little Karoo and on the Garden Route without hassle, and they’re still looking good. It almost feels like you’re wearing running shoes. The upper breathes easily, there’s ample protection in the heel and toe areas, and there are no friction points that normally create hot spots. So, no blisters! The blue colour might not be to everyone’s liking, but they’re also available in khaki. R1 299 hi-tec.co.za

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It’s time to kick off your shoes and enjoy quality time with friends and family. These six recipes will lend your holiday hangouts colour and flavour. RECIPES & STYLING JOHANÉ NEILSON PICTURES SHELLEY CHRISTIANS

Prawns with tomato sauce and breadcrumbs

Beer-can chicken with plum sauce

FOOD Beer-can chicken with plum sauce Serves 6 Preparation time 20 minutes Cooking time 90 minutes

You need • 1 whole chicken • 3 ml each salt and black pepper • 5 ml onion powder • 5 ml mustard powder • 10 ml mixed dried herbs • pinch each of ground ginger and chilli ﬂakes • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 can (370 ml) beer • 3 tablespoons plum sauce • 2 spring onions, chopped • 5 ml sesame seeds, roasted

Here’s how

Pork belly with devils-on-horseback

Prawns with tomato sauce and breadcrumbs Serves 4 Preparation time 20 minutes Cooking time 20 minutes

You need • 1 ciabatta loaf • 4 tablespoons olive oil • 2 cloves of garlic, chopped • 1 medium-sized red onion, chopped • 1 tablespoon tomato paste • 3 big tomatoes, in small pieces • 1 red chilli, chopped • pinch of turmeric (optional) • 1 cup dry white wine • 800 g prawns in shells, deveined

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• butter • salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • 2 tablespoons ﬂat-leaf parsley, chopped

Here’s how 1 Cut two thick slices of ciabatta, then cut them into smaller cubes. Heat 1 tablespoon oil and fry the bread until crisp. Crumb the bread and set aside. 2 Heat the rest of the olive oil in a pan over a medium heat. Fry the garlic and onion until glossy. Add the tomato paste, tomatoes, chilli and turmeric, and cook for a few minutes until ﬂavoursome. Add the wine and cook for a few minutes. Lower the heat and simmer for

about 10 minutes or until the sauce thickens. Add a little water if it’s too thick. 3 In a separate pan, fry the prawns in the butter until they’re bright pink and curled up. Add the prawns to the tomato sauce and season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Scatter over the parsley and breadcrumbs. Simmer for a minute or two and serve with slices of ciabatta to mop up the sauce.

TIP This dish is also delicious with spaghetti. Stir al dente pasta and a little of the pasta water into the sauce with the prawns. The meal will serve six.

1 Mix together the salt and pepper, onion powder, mustard powder, herbs, ginger, chilli ﬂakes and olive oil. Baste the chicken with this mixture, outside and inside. 2 Prepare the kettle braai for the indirect cooking method by moving the coals to the sides and leaving space open under the grid. 3 Take a big sip of the beer – you only need about ¾ of the can. Place the beer can on the grid. Slide the chicken over the beer so the can is upright inside the cavity. Use the chicken legs and can for balance. Cover the chicken with a sheet of foil and close the lid of the kettle braai. Cook for about an hour. 4 Remove the foil and baste the chicken with the plum sauce. Close the lid again and braai for another 30 minutes or until the chicken is glossy and cooked through. Carefully remove the chicken from the can and set aside for 10 minutes to rest. Scatter over the spring onion and sesame seeds and serve with a fresh salad and ﬂatbread.

Pork belly with devils-on-horseback Makes 4 – 6 appetisers Preparation time 20 minutes, plus time overnight Cooking time about 2 hours

You need • 1 kg deboned pork belly, with skin • 15 ml Cajun spices • 5 ml salt • 7 devils-on-horseback (glacé cherries or prunes wrapped in bacon), toothpicks removed

For the salad • 300 g Brussel sprouts, steamed and shredded • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice • 1 teaspoon honey • 1 teaspoon coarse mustard • salt and pepper, to taste • ½ cup pomegranate arils (or 60 ml dried cranberries and 60 ml pecan nuts, chopped)

Here’s how 1 Rub the spices onto the meaty side of the pork belly – make sure you don’t get any on the skin side. Turn the pork belly over and prick the skin with a skewer or use a meat tenderiser tool. 2 Use a sharp knife to score the skin and fat layer at even intervals. (This makes it easier to cut the pork belly when the meat is cooked and the skin is crisp.) 3 Rub the salt into the skin and cuts. Put the pork belly in a nonreactive container (glass, ceramic or enamel) with the skin facing up. Refrigerate uncovered for at least 12 hours to dry out the skin. This step is optional, but it ensures a crisp pork belly. 4 Remove the meat from the fridge, pat it dry and set it aside to reach room temperature. Arrange the devils-on-horseback in a row on the meaty side, roll up the pork belly (skin facing out) and secure with kitchen twine. 5 Braai the pork belly for about 1 hour 15 minutes on a rotisserie over medium-hot coals. Move the meat closer to the heat and braai for 30 – 45 minutes or until the skin is crisp and golden brown. Set aside to rest before you slice the meat. 6 Prepare the salad: Mix all the ingredients together. Season to taste and serve with the pork.

Cheese tart Serves 6 as an appetiser Preparation time 45 minutes Baking time 40 minutes

You need • 125 ml buttermilk • 1 egg • 2 tablespoons olive oil • salt and pepper • 10 sheets of phyllo pastry

For the ﬁlling • 2 cups grated mozzarella • about 1 cup creamy Danish feta • 8 piquanté peppers, ﬁnely chopped • 3 tablespoons chives, chopped • 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped • black pepper

Here’s how 1 Preheat the oven to 180° C. Beat the buttermilk, egg and olive oil together until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Remember, the cheese is also salty.) 2 Line a rectangular oven dish with the phyllo: Baste five sheets generously with the buttermilk mixture and layer them on top of each other in the dish. Mix together the filling ingredients and spoon onto the pastry in an even layer. 3 Baste the five remaining pastry sheets with the buttermilk mixture and layer them on top of the cheese filling. Press down lightly. 4 Pour the rest of the buttermilk mixture over the tart. Use a sharp knife to cut the tart into squares or diamonds. Bake for about 35 – 40 minutes until golden brown and cooked through. 4 Cut the cheese tart along the same lines you made before baking and serve hot or at room temperature.

TIP For a lighter, crispier tart, baste the phyllo pastry with ½ cup melted butter instead of the buttermilk mixture.

Cheese tart

Green salad with beetroot and pistachio praline

FOOD

You need • 200 g chocolate biscuits, crumbled • ½ cup butter, melted • 80 g berry-ﬂavoured jelly • ½ cup boiling water • ½ cup cold water • 2 x 230 g tubs medium-fat cream cheese • 1 cup full-cream berry-ﬂavoured yoghurt

For the topping • 80 g berry-ﬂavoured jelly • 1 cup boiling water • 200 ml cold water • strawberries, raspberries and mint leaves

Here’s how

Berry cheesecake

Green salad with beetroot and pistachio praline Serves 6 Preparation time 20 minutes Cooking time 10 minutes

You need • 2 handfuls (80 g) of baby spinach • handful of fresh basil • 125 g mangetout • 1 cup peas, blanched • 2 ripe avocados, sliced • 12 pickled baby beetroot, in quarters

For the praline • ½ cup shelled pistachios, roughly chopped • ¼ cup pumpkin seeds • ½ cup sugar • ½ cup boiling water

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For the salad dressing • ½ cup Bulgarian yoghurt • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice • grated zest of 1 lemon • ½ teaspoon grated garlic • 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped • pinch each of sugar, salt and black pepper

Here’s how 1 Prepare the praline ﬁrst: Line a baking tray with a sheet of baking paper. Spread the nuts and pumpkin seeds out in a single layer on the paper. Add the sugar and water to a small pot and stir over a medium heat. When the sugar has dissolved, bring the water to a boil without stirring until it turns a golden caramel. Pour the hot caramel over the nuts. Tilt the baking sheet from side to side so

the caramel forms a thin layer – be careful, it’s very hot! Set the praline aside to cool down and set. 2 Whisk all the ingredients for the salad dressing together and season to taste. Set aside. 3 Combine the spinach, basil, mangetout and peas in a salad bowl. Arrange the beetroot and avocado on top. Don’t move the beetroot around too much or your salad will turn pink. Chop up the praline and scatter over the salad. Drizzle over a few spoons of the salad dressing and serve.

Berry cheesecake Makes 16 squares Preparation time 20 minutes, plus time to set overnight

1 Line a rectangular pan with baking paper or wax paper. (This makes it easier to unmould the cheesecake. If you don’t want to unmould the cheesecake, prepare it in a tart dish.) Mix the biscuit crumbs and butter together. Spoon the mixture into the pan and lightly smooth it down in an even layer. Put the pan in the fridge while you prepare the jelly. 2 Dissolve the jelly in the boiling water and add the cold water. Beat the cream cheese until smooth. Add the yoghurt and beat again until smooth. Slowly add the cold jelly and beat until well combined. Pour the mixture over the crust and refrigerate for an hour to set. 3 Prepare the topping: Dissolve the second packet of jelly powder in the boiling water, add the cold water and pour the mixture over the cheesecake. Refrigerate until set. 4 Lift the cheesecake out of the pan by pulling on the baking paper. Transfer it to a serving plate, cut the cheesecake into squares and serve with berries and mint leaves.

TIP If you decorate the jelly layer with sliced strawberries, make sure you use a very sharp knife to slice the cheesecake.

Merry & bright! Ideas for your festive table VIA your TV friends and family. — Real people. Real stories. viatv.co.za

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@viatv

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Mr Popularity

The Tiguan – a compact family SUV – is Volkswagen’s bestselling car globally. The current version has been modernised, but it’s obvious that the German giant isn’t going to mess around with a winning recipe. BY PIERRE STEYN

he way people react to the car you’re driving speaks volumes. Take the brandnew Volkswagen Golf GTI, for example. It’s the Tiguan’s hothatch cousin and in the week that I drove a test model, I was almost forced oﬀ the road as petrolheads swarmed in front of me, behind me and alongside to get a better look at the eighth incarnation of this iconic urban speedster. At traﬃc lights, grown men – some weren’t even wearing baseball caps! – lowered their windows and gave me thumbs up. In the parking lot at my local Checkers, strangers ran over to ask questions about the car.

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“It’s not mine!”I stammered.“It’s a test car!” Eventually, I learnt to just smile back with my thumb raised. One week later, I drove the recently upgraded Tiguan – the top-of-the-range R-Line with the same 2.0-litre turbo-charged engine as the Golf GTI. But nobody even glanced in my direction at a traﬃc light. There were no conversations in parking lots. I might as well have been invisible. Yes, people don’t see you when you drive a Tiguan. And that’s the way Tiguan owners like it. They are legion – you might be one of them! The Tiguan stats are mind-boggling:

Almost seven million have been sold globally; every year, another 900 000 find new owners. You can buy a Tiguan in 80% of all countries; a new one rolls off the assembly line every 35 seconds in one of four automotive plants around the world. It’s a car for the masses, just like the original Volkswagen – the Beetle. There’s a recipe to the Tiguan’s success: Just like Baby Bear’s porridge in the Goldilocks fairy tale, the Tiguan is not too hot and not too cold. It’s just right. With the new and improved version, VW has been careful not to mess with the recipe too much. The most significant changes

are cosmetic alterations to the front bumper and grille, with new LED lights that are brilliant in all respects. The interior has also been overhauled: All comfort functions are now controlled via big digital touch screens – a touch-and-swipe fest that will not be to everyone’s liking… There’s something to be said for the tactile feedback of a button or a knob, but it doesn’t take long to get used to the futuristic cabin. There are currently two petrol engines in the line-up, with a turbodiesel to be launched towards the end of 2021. The 1.4-litre petrol model has front-wheel drive and

WHEELS

delivers 110 kW of power and 250 Nm of torque. The R-Line that I drove has a 2.0-litre engine and pumps out 162 kW and 350 Nm. It’s a real undercover sleeper – a family car capable of accelerating from 0 – 100 km/h in only 6,5 seconds. The 4Motion all-wheel-drive system and a snappy seven-speed, twin-clutch gearbox help to keep everyone, including the kids in the booster seats, in check when the traffic light turns green. The test model I drove was fitted with optional 20-inch alloy wheels. The massive wheels/ low-profile tyre combo added even more firmness to an already

firm ride – I would stick with the standard 19-inch wheels to increase ride comfort. Other than that, it’s hard to find fault with this premium car – besides its premium price… The “cheapest”Tiguan retails for an eye-watering R528 800, and the R-Line is north of R720 000. That’s before you’ve added a sunroof or a towbar… Will the pricing be enough to stem the Tiguan tide? I don’t think so. Once you’ve become aware of this“invisible”car that has infiltrated our suburbs and cities without fanfare, you’ll start seeing them everywhere.

VOLKSWAGEN TIGUAN RLINE 2.0TSI 4MOTION DSG Engine

1 984 cc turbo-charged petrol

Power

162 kW @ 4 500 – 6 200 rpm

Torque

350 Nm @ 1 500 – 4 400 rpm

Transmission

seven-speed automatic

Consumption (claimed)

8,3 ℓ/100 km

Ground clearance

201 mm

Warranty

3 years/120 000 km

Service plan

5 years/90 000 km

Service intervals

15 000 km

Price

R720 700

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TOURS

Game-rich northern Botswana! DATES AND RATES

27 March – 6 April 2022 R18 250 per adult; 50 % for kids under 10 Duration: 11 days, 10 nights Start: Khama Rhino Sanctuary End: Kasane WHAT WE SUPPLY

• Tented accommodation • Specialist guide • Two-way radios in all vehicles • Three meals per day • Entry fees to all parks and activities • 4x4 assistance if required WHAT YOU NEED TO BRING

• Your own vehicle – a 4x4 is essential (fuel is for your own account) • Your own travel insurance • Cooldrinks, alcoholic drinks and snacks • Personal items such as medication, sunblock, binoculars, camera etc. • A camping chair each

Our latest adventure into Botswana introduces new destinations while keeping some ﬁrm favourites. Explore this country on the journey of a lifetime and discover some of Africa’s wildest places.

ur northern Botswana tour begins at the community-based Khama Rhino Sanctuary in central Botswana, where we spend our first night before moving on to the spectacular Kubu Island, a granite rock outcrop on the Makgadikgadi Pans, for a night under the stars. The next morning, after enjoying coffee and rusks against the backdrop of the iconic baobabs, we head north along the edge of the empty salt pans, testing our 4x4 driving on the sandy terrain. We have a light picnic lunch en route to our next campsite. We spend two days on the banks of the Boteti River, 30 km from Maun. There will be an opportunity to do a flight over the Okavango Delta (own expense), explore the local markets or simply chill in camp before a late afternoon cruise on the Boteti River. Then we continue to the Khwai River, north of Moremi, for three days of camping. The area is renowned for prolific game, beautiful scenery and magnificent birdlife. Next on the itinerary is Chobe National Park, where there are excellent gameviewing opportunities. It’s one of the best places to see elephants, as well as lions, leopards, hyenas and wild dogs.

Contact

(A mokoro experience is included in the tour package.) Leaving Khwai behind, we traverse the Savuti section of Chobe National Park to our camp on the Chobe floodplain, close to Ngoma in northern Botswana. Our transit through the park is yet another chance to watch game. By the time we arrive at our camp in the late afternoon, the Bhejane team has dinner on the fire, so the only thing left is to wash off the Savuti dust before enjoying a sundowner. Go on a self-drive tour along the Chobe River to explore at your own pace. The area is known for its large herds of elephant and buffalo. Our camp is situated close to the Ngoma entrance to Chobe National Park, so you can easily do a drive along the riverfront and floodplains in the park – good places for birdwatching and game. And finally, we’ll spend two nights on the Chobe near Kasane. There are no fences between the park and the town so it’s quite common to see wildlife wandering through town! A visit to Chobe would not be complete without a sunset cruise on the river, watching the animals make their way to the water. What a fitting way to round off the adventure.

bookings@bhejane.com or call 082 724 0442 for a complete itinerary and more info.

BITOU VALLEY ECO CAMP

Stay, play and ride!

Come experience endless hiking and mountain-biking trails, the best beaches and abundant fresh air. The Garden Route is already one of South Africa’s best holiday spots. Now, with hundreds of kilometres of pristine trails for hiking and cycling, it is becoming an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise. For adventure-seekers and lovers of fresh air, the Bitou Valley Eco Camp offers a unique camping experience. On the banks of the Bitou River, this 12-bed eco camp provides off-grid glamping and delicious local cuisine (potjies, braaivleis, roosterkoek…) enjoyed around the campfire each night. Stayovers at Bitou Valley include two meals a day, unlimited access to activities like kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding on the river, and amazing birding and swimming. For the 2021/22 holiday season, guests are also eligible for 50% off a guided self-drive exploration into the Diepwalle section of the Knysna Forest. * All Trail Lynx trails have been uploaded to Trailforks and Strava, and all nearby hiking trails have been uploaded to Komoot.

To book your stay, contact Bhejane Adventures on 082 724 0442 or bookings@bhejane.com

BOOK NOW!

DATES AND RATES

Open from: 1 November 2021 – 30 April 2022 R990 per adult per night; R450 per child under 10 (minimum two-night stay)

STAY HERE JACKALBERRY RIDGE, MARLOTH PARK

he Kruger Park is a wonderful place, but sometimes it feels like you’re paying a lot for what is a fairly basic rondavel. You’re surrounded by wild animals, so you try to justify the price… Well, at Jackalberry Ridge you have a great place to stay, several animals will come by to visit, and you’re only 20 minutes from the Crocodile Bridge gate. Each safari tent is set in its own patch of mopane veld. The owners thought of everything when they designed the place: The safari-style decor inside the tents will make you feel like an explorer on an expedition; and outside, each tent has a splash pool, a braai, and a dining table and two deckchairs under an awning. Set your alarm so you’re on the deck on the roof of the kitchen early in the morning with a cup of coffee to watch the animals: A mongoose family might trot past the braai – look at the babies, cute! – while a warthog boar grunts from behind a tree. Later, when you drive to the communal recreational area, you’ll stop whenever you see movement: a monitor lizard slipping away under the deck of a safari tent, or a kudu head popping out from behind a branch. The recreational area has a swimming pool, a jungle gym, a big outdoor chess set, a trampoline and more deckchairs. My favourite pastime was looking for a lesser honeyguide in the tree canopy while my kids and their new friends played Marco Polo. Facilities: The safari tents offer privacy. Each tent has a kitchen and bathroom. The kitchen has everything you’ll need, but it’s a little cramped. Rather plan to prepare your meals on the fire outside. The tents sleep two to eight people. The camping stands have a kitchen and a private bathroom. Where? Jackalberry Ridge resort is in Marloth Park, about 20 km from the Crocodile Bridge gate. Rates: Camping R550 per night for four people, plus R60 per extra person (max six people per stand). Safari tent from R1 300 per night for four people (sleeps four, six or eight people; some have sleeper couches for children). Contact: 0861 010 347; dreamresorts.co.za – Esma Marnewick

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LIVE THE JOURNEY PROMOTION

ENJOY THE TRIP OF A LIFETIME Join go! and Live the Journey on one of these tours through Namibia. Live the Journey are experts in Namibian travel.

Faces of the Namib

Lüderitz to Walvis Bay

This is a six-day, adrenaline-filled 4x4 route. The tour departs from Solitaire and crosses the Namib Desert from east to west over some of the world’s highest dunes. It ends in Walvis Bay. Escape from the daily grind, absorb the silence and rediscover yourself on this adventure.

This seven-day tour follows the coastline from south to north, through the Sperrgebiet where diamond miners sought their fortunes and ships ran aground. Surrounded by a sea of sand, you won’t have to think of anything but sailing over the next high dune.

JOIN US

3–9 August 2022

19–24 March 2022

Seven Rivers of Northern Namibia

This 10-day tour starts on the banks of the Kunene River on Namibia’s northern border, zigzags across five dry riverbeds and ends in the south of Damaraland, at the Ugab River. We take back roads and routes you wouldn’t normally drive on your own, through a variety of landscapes. JOIN US

18–24 September 2022

JOIN US

Faces of the Skeleton Coast

Namib100 Hike

This is a five-day slackpacking hike in the Namib Desert. You walk 100 km from south of Walvis Bay, past Sandwich Harbour to the iconic Eduard Bohlen shipwreck. Even though you will be in a group, there will be plenty of time to be alone with your thoughts and soak up the experience of this unique landscape. JOIN US

11–16 October 2022

• Entry only allowed in the company of a concession holder • Limited number of trips per year • Covid-safe – you’re in your own vehicle • A knowledgeable guide accompanies the group • Enjoy delicious meals

On this seven-day tour, you’ll experience the rugged Skeleton Coast north of Swakopmund to the mouth of the Kunene River. We will also take a tour into the Kaokoveld. Relax, enjoy your surroundings, and immerse yourself in the guides’ stories, while you leave your worries behind for a while. CONTACT LIVE THE JOURNEY FOR AVAILABLE DATES

TO BOOK: Call 021 863 6400 E-mail weg@livethejourney.co.za

VISIT THESE SITES FOR MORE INFO: www.livethejourney.co.za | www.facesofthenamib.com | www.namib100hike.com

TAKE A HIKE A mountain full of flowers BY ESMA MARNEWICK

o you remember learning about a trapezium at school? It’s like a rectangle crossed with a triangle: the top and bottom sides are parallel; the left and right sides aren’t. That’s what the elevation profile of the Oudebosch-Harold Porter hike looks like – a slope on either side, with a level bit at the top in the middle. Most people start in Kogelberg Nature Reserve, a spectacular patch of mountain wilderness between Betty’s Bay and Kleinmond on the Overberg coast. The trail goes left off the jeep track that runs behind the CapeNature reception office and skirts the Oudebosch Eco Cabins. Now you’re on a gentle slope and already there’s a king protea to greet you. The trail connects the 180 km² Kogelberg with the 2 km² Harold Porter National Botanical Garden, which is like a mini Kirstenbosch. Between the two protected areas, there are as many as 1 800 plant species, of which 150 94

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are found nowhere else. It’s springtime, and within half an hour I have already seen white everlastings, tree pelargonium, conebush, yellow pincushion, china flowers… The trail crosses the Oudebos River for the first time. I finish off the tap water in my bottle and refill it with crisp mountain water. The top of the trapezium is getting closer. Look carefully – there’s an indigenous forest just below the nek in the mountains. It’s called Oudebos and it’s full of cool shade… But you’re not there yet. From the stream, the rocky path gradually winds up the opposite side of the mountain, past fields of rooistompies. The sun bakes down, but push through because it’s only about half an hour to the forest. When you get there, the floor becomes soft underfoot and shafts of sunlight pierce the canopy overhead. The Oudebos River forms three shallow pools here – catch your breath, take off your shoes and soak your feet.

The trail climbs through the forest. Sometimes you enter a clearing and just as you think you’re on the plateau, the path heads back into the trees, with painted yellow footprints keeping you on track. Take a break and see how far you’ve come. (Yup, those teeny houses below are the eco cabins you passed earlier.) The trail does one more turn through the forest before delivering you to a sign that indicates Harold Porter to the left. I follow the sign, walking through a field of shoulder-high yellow conebush and white redlegs (pictured, above). Occasionally, a fountain bush waves its fine purple flowers in the breeze. Beyond the yellow sea, on the horizon, I see the real deal – the blue Atlantic Ocean. I’m now on top of the trapezium! Keep your eyes peeled at this point for a very pleasant detour: An unmarked trail turns to the right, which takes you to a deep pool in a tributary of the Oudebos River. (If you see a Sanbi sign, you’ve gone too far.) I’ve visited

this pool three times and we were always the only ones there, even on sunny days (pictured, right). Back on the main route, the trail climbs to a scattering of rock formations on the nek, before descending to the top of the Leopard’s Kloof waterfall (pictured, top). Stand on the rocks and crane your neck to see the dark gorge below. You can climb to the pool at the base of the waterfall, but only via a diﬀerent route that goes up from Harold Porter. Go in summer between December and February and you have a good chance of seeing red disas (Disa uniﬂora) blooming against the rocks. From the lip of the waterfall, the trail enters an exposed section on top of the mountain. You’ll see the botanical garden below, and Betty’s Bay stretched out along the coast. Hop along the boardwalks and rocks, then watch your step on the steep path that zigzags down to the lawns. Before long you’ll be on the other side of the trapezium. Nicely done!

Distance: The hike is 6 km one-way, between Kogelberg Nature Reserve and Harold Porter National Botanical Garden in Betty’s Bay. It can be walked in either direction, but we recommend starting in Kogelberg because the section in Harold Porter is very steep and best tackled going downhill. Where? Kogelberg Nature Reserve is between Betty’s Bay and Kleinmond, oﬀ the R43. If you’re hiking one-way, leave a second vehicle at Harold Porter. Opening times: Harold Porter is open weekdays from 8 am to 4.30 pm, and until 5 pm on weekends. Kogelberg is open daily from 7.30 am to 7 pm in summer; until 6 pm in winter. Cost: Kogelberg conservation fee R50 per adult; R30 per child; free with a Wild card. Harold Porter R35 per person; free with Sanbi membership. (You only pay on the side you enter.) What else? Call beforehand to make sure the trail is open – it’s sometimes closed after heavy rains. Contact: Harold Porter 028 272 9311; sanbi.org Kogelberg 087 288 0499; capenature.co.za

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Put Simon’s Town on your radar Simon’s Town has been the headquarters of the South African Navy for more than two centuries. But you don’t need a military rank to enjoy the sun and the sea. Here’s your guide.

BY FRANÇOIS HAASBROEK

t’s the middle of the week and there are no tourists in Jubilee Square to throw a few coins into his guitar case, but that doesn’t stop Machawe Ndlovu. His solo echoes out over the waterfront, past yachts bobbing in the swell and past the statue of Just Nuisance, Simon’s Town’s famous Great Dane. You can tell by a guitarist’s body language when the music is playing him, and not the other way around. Especially when he lifts the instrument to his mouth and starts plucking strings with his teeth… It might not be busy today, but it makes sense for a street musician like Machawe to play here. Simon’s Town, just down the coast from Cape Town, is a favourite hang-out for locals and international tourists alike. Everyone comes here for the laid-back vibe, the dramatic views, the ﬁsh and chips, and the penguins.

GALLO/GETTYIMAGES.COM

TOWN

Go see the penguins

Like the Eiffel Tower in Paris or the Colosseum in Rome, the African penguin colony at Boulders Beach is a must-see attraction when you’re in Simon’s Town. The first two breeding pairs arrived in the early 1980s, and now there are as many as 3 000 of them waddling between the towels on the beach. (The penguins recently became international superstars, thanks to the Netflix series Penguin Town.) There are only two mainland African penguin colonies in the country – the other one is at Stony Point in Betty’s Bay. The two beaches closest to the colony fall within the ambit of Table Mountain National Park – you have to pay a conservation fee to go down to the water. Boulders Beach is fantastic for swimming and Foxy Beach has boardwalks and a deck from where you can watch the penguins. Seaforth Beach and Water’s Edge are close by – they’re free to visit and you might also see a penguin or two. Where? The entrance nearest to Boulders Beach is in Bellevue Road. The entrance in Seaforth Road also has a visitors’ centre. Cost: R42 per adult; R21 per child; free with a Wild card. Best time to visit? The penguins are resident throughout the year. They spend a lot of time on the beach between March and May; in September they spend more time in the water, hunting all day to build up fat reserves before they start to moult.

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Get to know the navy

The breakwater of the biggest navy base in the country dominates this stretch of coastline; four frigates are at anchor during the time of my visit. The pavements in town are decorated with naval heraldry from ships like the SAS Drakensberg, SAS Walvisbaai and SAS Chapman. Unfortunately, you can’t just waltz into a naval base and climb aboard a war ship, but you can visit the SA Navy Museum. When I walk in, I can hear the characteristic “left, right, left!” of sailors being put through their paces. The exhibitions detailing some of the biggest tragedies in naval history stand out, like the SAS President Kruger, which collided with the SAS Tafelberg and sank, killing 16 of the crew on board. A piece of the President Kruger became stuck in the hull of the Tafelberg, and this twisted piece of metal now rests at the front door of the museum. The bottom storey has a gunnery and missile section, with missile launchers, torpedoes and anti-aircraft guns. You can play around in a replica of a submarine, and there’s a helicopter you can see up close. The adjacent building is a more modern space, with portraits of the chiefs of the SA Navy. An audio tour will tell you more about the navy’s recent history and how it has changed over the last three decades. Entrance fee: Free. Opening times: Daily from 9 am to 3.30 pm. Contact: 021 787 4686; sanavymuseum.co.za Another museum… If you want to know more about the history of the area, visit the Simon’s Town Museum. 021 786 3046

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Walk through the town’s past

Park your vehicle and walk to the bronze statue of Just Nuisance in Jubilee Square (pictured, top left), which has been guarding over the waterfront for 30 years. In the 1940s, the dog it commemorates crawled into the hearts of Simon’s Town’s sailors. He loved to lie on the gangplanks of ships and often got in the way, earning him his nickname, Nuisance. Nuisance would ride the train to Cape Town, which irritated railway officials. They lobbied to have him put down, but the sailors convinced their superiors to give Nuisance an official military rank, which not only saved his life but also meant he could travel for free! You need a name and a surname to work for the navy, so he was named Just Nuisance and was later promoted from ordinary seaman to able seaman so he could receive rations. Learn more about this story – and others – on foot by visiting attractions like The Standby Diver statue (pictured, above) on the quay, the plaque commemorating the SS Mendi tragedy (the biggest naval disaster in war time in South African history), and the Seaforth Cemetery (pictured, top right; 1813 – 1910) in Runciman Drive. If you’re not put off by steep hills, climb the Signal School Steps up Simonsberg behind town. The footpath goes up to the grave of Just Nuisance, where you get a sprawling view of town. From Barnard Street, it’s about an hour’s walk to the grave. More history: There are more than 60 national monuments in town. Most are close to Jubilee Square. There’s a map with some of the attractions in St George’s Street next to Die Hangkas shop.

TOWN

Shop till you drop

“Are you here to make an oﬀer?” says Percy van Zyl when I walk into the Warrior Toy Museum (pictured, right). “For the shop or a toy?” I reply. “Whatever you want!” Percy started the museum when he retired 30 years ago. You won’t ﬁnd a PlayStation here… The museum houses a collection of more than 4 000 toy cars, as well as dolls, board games, toy soldiers and a 4 m-long train that runs on a track past miniature villages and a mine. A father and son are the only other people in the museum. They come here often. “My son doesn’t call it a museum; to him it’s just Percy’s,” the dad says. Although he’s retired, Percy likes to share his collection with people. “I would rather be here helping than sitting at home alone.” Entrance fee: R10 per person. Some of the toys are for sale. Contact: 021 7861395 What else? At Maximalist ( 083 285 8336) you can buy antique furniture; Craftart Emporium ( 021 786 1997) has shelves full of knick-knacks like candles and teacups; Die Hangkas (pictured, right; 063 648 8531) has interesting succulents and crochet dolls; for leather products, visit Afreek ( 071 700 5087) – their aprons are very popular – and at Tari Designs (pictured, far right; 078 675 3585) you can pick a pattern for a dress or backpack and they will make it for you using shweshwe fabric. All the shops are within 500 m of each other in St George’s Street.

Play on the water

“The wind does have some beneﬁts,” says Derek Goldman from Kayak Cape Town when the weather prevents us from going out on the water for the third consecutive day. “If the wind didn’t blow all the time, Simon’s Town would be as packed as Clifton.” Finally, the wind dies down and we can go out. We paddle past the SAS Spioenkop frigate towards Boulders Beach, where penguins bob on the water. Some of the birds are curious and come over to investigate the kayaks. We turn around at Boulders. If weather and time allow, you can swim here before you paddle back to the waterfront. Where? Wharf Street, in front of Bertha’s Restaurant. Cost: R350 per adult, R300 per child under 17. Opening times: Daily from 8.30 am. The outing takes about two hours. Contact: 065 707 4444; kayakcapetown.co.za What else? If you prefer cycling to paddling, hire a water bike, which is like a mini catamaran that you sit on and “pedal”. Cape Town Water Bikes oﬀers hourlong tours for R490 per person. 083 777 1048; capetownwaterbikes.co.za

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DRIVE A BACK ROAD

The main road through town is often overrun with tourists or gridlocked in the late afternoon when the naval officers return home. Sidestep the traffic and turn onto Runciman Drive, parallel to the main road. There are benches next to the road with views of the naval base. Or turn into Dido Valley Road at the Harbour Bay shopping centre outside Simon’s Town. Drive 1,5 km and turn left onto Scala Road. This cement track winds up the hill past three batteries – big canons used during the two world wars to ward off enemy ships in False Bay. Pull over at the Scala Battery to see a canon up close, and to enjoy one of the best views of the bay. Turn left where Scala Road meets Red Hill Road. After 3 km you’ll be back in Simon’s Town.

THE WATERFRONT EAT HERE AT THE WATERFRONT If you want to look out over the bay, go to Bertha’s ( 021 786 2138; berthas.co.za) or Saveur ( 021 786 1919; saveur.co.za). Saveur has a 25% discount on seafood every Thursday. Opposite Saveur is the fish-and-chips restaurant The Salty Sea Dog ( 021 786 1918) where I had the best slaptjips I’ve had in a long time (R48 for a big portion). Fran’s Place on the other side of the Just Nuisance statue offers hearty portions at affordable prices ( 021 786 9430).

THE SALTY SEA DOG SEAFORTH RESTAURANT

THE SWEETEST THING PATISSERIE

IN THE MAIN ROAD Almost every second place in St George’s Street (the M4) is a restaurant. Order a pizza at Café Pescado ( 021 786 2272; pescados.co.za) – “Just Nuisance” with boerewors and monkey gland sauce costs R98 – or have a light lunch at the stylish Lighthouse Café ( 021 786 9000; thelighthousecafe.co.za). For baked goods or a pie, go to The Sweetest Thing Patisserie ( 021 786 4200) – the lamb-and-rosemary pie for R60 was delicious. IF YOU HAVE A SWEET TOOTH If you’re craving something sweet, visit I Love Waffles ( 021 786 9361; ilovewaffles.co.za) next to Jubilee Square. Their Nutella and brownie waffle (R84) is decadent. And what’s a seaside holiday without ice cream? K and D’s ( 083 254 1514) in St George’s Street sells gelato and sorbet, with vegan and sugar-free options (from R30). FOR PENGUIN ENTHUSIASTS Sit on the deck at Seaforth Restaurant ( 021 786 4810; seaforthrestaurant.co.za) if you want to eat calamari (R125) with a view of the penguins.

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TOWN

BOULDERS BEACH

STAY HERE False Bay Lodge This self-catering, double-storey house is tucked away from the hustle and bustle in the suburb of Froggy Farm just south of town. It has two en suite bedrooms (sleeps four people), a big living area, a swimming pool and a stoep with a view of False Bay. Rate: R1 300 per night. 082 859 6701; angelavl@tiscali.co.za Penguins View Guesthouse This guesthouse is within walking distance of Boulders Beach. There are three twin-sleeper apartments, each with a small kitchen, stoep and braai. The self-catering cottage sleeps four people. There’s also a communal swimming pool. Rates: Apartment from R1 300 per night; cottage from R1 950 per night. 072 373 4277; penguinsview.co.za Boulders Beach Hotel You can’t sleep any closer to the penguins. The hotel is next to the

Boulders Beach parking area – look for the big inﬂatable penguin out front. There are 10 en suite double rooms, one en suite room that sleeps three people, and two selfcatering units that sleep ﬁve (three adults and two children). There is also a restaurant. Rates: Double rooms from R750 per night; self-catering unit from R1 700 per night; en suite room R1 800 per night (the only room with breakfast included). 071 101 0151; bouldersbeach.co.za Rocklands B&B This guesthouse is on the edge of Simon’s Town. It’s the last building before you exit town towards Cape Point. There are three selfcatering units that sleep two to four people. All three units have a balcony overlooking the bay. Rates: From R1 350 per night for two people (self-catering). 082 786 3158; rocklandsbnb.com

BOULDERS BEACH HOTEL

FALSE BAY LODGE

The tourism oﬃce is in St George’s Street, opposite Jubilee Square. 021 786 8400; simonstown.com

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GO&BUY GUIDE

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GO&BUY GUIDE

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Northern Cape • Namibia • Western Cape • North West • Mpumalanga • Mozambique

GO&STAY GUIDE

nOrtHern cape

ASKHAM

TO ADVERTISE HERE, CONTACT: DANIE NELL 082 859 0542

danie.nell@media24.com

SHARLENE SMITH 083 583 1604

sharlene.smith@media24.com

CROSSWORD SOLUTION

Western cape

ARNISTON MIDWEEK, SPECIAL OFFER: CAMP FROM SUNDAY TO FRIDAY 2 PERSONS ONLY R650-00 UNITS, SPECIAL OFFER: STAY FROM SUNDAY TO FRIDAY 2 PERSONS ONLY R2140-00 naturereserveinamalaria-freearea.Bushveldatmosphere–lessthananhourfrom PretoriaandJohannesburg–nearBrits.Self-cateringhousesandcaravanparkwithneat ablutions–wheelchair-friendlybathroom. Hikingtrails–cycling trails – bird watching – game drives – plenty of game

Playpark•Tabletennis •Pooltables•Trampolines •Volleyball•Minigolf•Indoorheatedswimmingpoolsand jacuzzis•Outdoorheatedswimmingpoolandcoldswimmingpools•Lazyriver•Waterslides•Takeaways• Jacuzzi’s •Koueswembaddens•“Lazyriver”•Waterglybane•Wegneemetes

Tel: +27 66 298 5379 / +27 66 298 1664 / +27 73 171 8331 /+27 82 375 6179 E-mail: info@dubegame.co.za • www.dubegame.co.za • Book online: www.alloutbookings.co.za

nOrtH West

BRITS Accommodation, Restaurant, Beach Weddings, Conferences. All accommodation is within walking distance from the beach. Situated 380km from the Lebombo/Komatipoort border post.

THE A –FRAME

Affordable Family Accommodation

www.zonabraza.com

info@theaframehazyview.co.za | Ellen 066 406321 ▪ Perfect for large families or a group ▪ Fully equipped and serviced. ▪ 10 km ffrom the KNP nd central of friends. for the Panorama rou e. ▪ 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, air cons, DStv, BBQ facilities, pool, ▪ With excellent security, standby and a KolKol hot tub. water & generator power.

MpUMaLanGa

info@zonabraza.com Whatsapp: +258 84 763 3076 Cell: +258 82 480 5348 (mcel) Cell: +258 85 048 2455 (vodacom)

HAZYVIEW

To advertise on these pages contact: Danie Nell 082 859 0542 danie.nell@media24.com or Sharlene Smith 083 583 1604 sharlene.smith@media24.com

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GO&STAY GUIDE

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KwaZulu-Natal • KwaZulu-Natal •

KwaZulu-Natal • KwaZulu-Natal • KwaZulu-Natal

To advertise on these pages contact: Danie Nell 082 859 0542 danie.nell@media24.com or Sharlene Smith 083 583 1604 sharlene.smith@media24.com

KwaZulu-Natal • KwaZulu-Natal •

KwaZulu-Natal • KwaZulu-Natal • KwaZulu-Natal

To advertise on these pages contact: Danie Nell 082 859 0542 danie.nell@media24.com or Sharlene Smith 083 583 1604 sharlene.smith@media24.com

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Namibia

•

Namibia

•

Namibia

•

Namibia

•

To advertise on these pages contact: Danie Nell 082 859 0542 danie.nell@media24.com or Sharlene Smith 083 583 1604 sharlene.smith@media24.com

Namibia

•

Namibia

Eastern Cape •

Eastern Cape • Eastern Cape • Eastern Cape • Eastern Cape

GO&STAY GUIDE

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Sharks are jawsome! SOPHIA VAN TAAK

There are about 440 shark species in the world and 117 are found in South African waters. We all know what a great white looks like, but do you know these other sharks? COMPILED BY SOPHIA VAN TAAK

I’m a gentle giant

The whale shark is not only the biggest shark, but also the biggest fish in the sea! (What about whales? Remember, even though whales live in the sea, they’re not fish – they’re mammals.) A whale shark has a big, flat mouth that can open up to 1,5 m wide. The shark would easily be able to swallow you whole, but luckily it only eats tiny creatures called plankton. You could swim next to a whale shark and it won’t even want a nibble!

12 m The length of a whale shark.

20 tonnes

That’s how much a whale shark weighs!

I struggle to ﬂoss my teeth

The sawshark has a very long snout, with teeth all along the edge – it looks like a saw. The shark uses its snout to slash and kill its prey.

Yawn… I need a nap

It’s easy to recognise the pyjama shark – it has long stripes along its body, as if it’s wearing pyjamas.

You make me blush

The shyshark has two fins on its back. When it gets a fright, it curls up and folds its tail fin over its face.

Mind my tail!

The thresher shark has a very long tail fin, which it uses to swat and stun its prey.

I’m sensitive

The hammerhead shark has a wide head with lots of space for sensory organs like eyes and ears. It can see and hear very well, which makes it a great hunter. 112 go! #179

Look at my wings!

The angel shark has a flat body with big fins on its sides – they look like an angel’s wings.

KIDS’ PAGE

Sharp senses

Sharks use these super senses to help them hunt.

Sight – A shark’s eyes are on the sides of its head, giving it a wide field of view. Their eyes are adapted to see well in the dark.

LYNNE FRASER

Smell – Sharks rely on their sense of smell to find prey. It’s so important that two-thirds of the shark’s brain are dedicated to smell. Some shark species would be able to smell one teaspoon of blood in a swimming pool full of water! EXTRA SENSE! Lateral line – This row of sensitive cells can detect when the water pressure around the shark changes. This helps the shark feel when another fish is nearby, and in which direction the sea currents are moving.

Hearing – A shark can hear very well. When you look at a photo of a shark, you’ll notice how big their ears are – they’re those holes behind their eyes.

Diﬀerences between sharks and other ﬁsh

DID YOU KNOW?

Some beaches have shark spotters who look for dangerous sharks in the water. The spotters use different flags to warn swimmers and surfers of potential danger. Here is what these flags mean: Green: The water is clear and there are no sharks in sight. Black: Spotting conditions are poor, but the shark spotter hasn’t seen a shark yet. Red: Be careful. A shark was recently spotted in the area. White: There’s a shark in the water – get out! (The shark spotter will also sound a siren.)

EXTRA SENSE! Ampullae of Lorenzini – Ampullaewhat? These black spots on a shark’s head detect electrical fields and changes in water temperature. Sharks use them to stay on course in the ocean, and to find prey.

• I am a super swimmer!

The great white shark is the biggest carnivorous fish on earth. 6 m – That’s how long a great white can grow to. 56 km/h – The top speed a great white shark can reach when chasing prey. (That’s how fast your dad drives in town.) 70 years – Some great white sharks grow very old. What scares a great white? Orcas! They hunt great white sharks and eat their livers.

Most ﬁsh species have a skeleton made of bone, like ours. But a shark’s skeleton consists of cartilage (like your nose and ears). It can bend more and is lighter than bone, which helps the shark move faster through the water.

•

Most ﬁsh have a swim bladder full of air that helps them maintain their buoyancy. In other words, they don’t ﬂoat upward or sink to the bottom. Sharks don’t have this bladder – they start to sink as soon as they stop swimming.

•

Fish usually have ﬂaps over their gills. A shark has exposed gills – they’re like long slits on both sides of the head.

•

The tail ﬁn of a ﬁsh has two equally long parts, but if you look at a shark’s tail, the top half is longer than the bottom half.

WIN THIS BOOK!

Answer this easy question and stand a chance to win a copy of A Pocket Guide to Sharks of the World. Does a pyjama shark have spots or stripes? SMS SHARK and your answer to 35695 (R1,50 per SMS; free SMSes don’t apply). Closing date: 10 January 2022 Published by Struik Nature; R289 at takealot.com Sources: weg.co.za

aquarium.co.za;

worldwildlife.org;

sharktrust.org; A Pocket Guide to Sharks of the World (Struik Nature); Ontdek die Oseaan (Human & Rousseau)

go! #179 113

WITH MY OWN EYES BY SIMON SMITH

CAT BATTLE IN THE KGALAGADI

n September 2017, I went on a week-long holiday to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park with my friend Warrick Davey. One morning, we drove up the Nossob River road for a while, then turned back towards Twee Rivieren. Warrick was driving and I was in the back seat, so we could both position ourselves for photography without getting in each other’s way. At about 8.15 am, I spotted a caracal crouched low among some dead wood. It seemed to be looking up into the camel thorn tree above. It was in stalking mode and moving closer to the tree. Using my binoculars, I noticed an African wildcat 1 in the canopy: the source of the caracal’s interest. I grabbed my camera – a Nikon D500 with a Nikon 400 mm lens – and started taking photos. The next moment, the caracal rocketed up the tree 2 , forcing the terrified cat to the very end of the flimsy branches. After a few moments of clawing at the bark where the wildcat had been lying, the caracal moved closer to the cat itself, driving it to do what neither of us was expecting… From a height of close to three storeys, the wildcat jumped! 3 , 4 We couldn’t believe what we were watching. It landed on its feet, in typical cat style. Just when we thought we’d seen it all, the caracal made the same incredible leap 5 . The caracal sprinted off in pursuit of the little cat 6 , with both felines making a beeline for the next available tree. They covered close to 50 m in what seemed like a split second. As the wildcat started hurtling up the trunk, the caracal leapt at it, hitting it mid-ascent. They both fell to the ground and the caracal killed the wildcat below the tree 7 . The whole sighting was over in less than 10 minutes. We returned that afternoon to find the body untouched, so the caracal didn’t eat the cat. We assume it was a case of dominance and competition. 2

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Life is a trip,travelling is living twice OMAR KHAYYÀM

BIKE GUIDE: PICK THE RIGHT BONEY FOR YOUR TRIP

South America East London locals experience a road less travelled in the Bolivian Andes

TIPS WHAT TO PACK AND HOW TO LOAD | TENTS CHOOSING A HOME AWAY FROM HOME | BOOTS THE LONG AND THE SHORT OF IT | RECIPES YOU CAN’T LIVE ON CANNED FOOD ALONE | INTERVIEW WITH CHARLEY BOORMAN

Deon Meyer

talks about the joys of motorcycling

AVA I L A B L E O N S H E L F N O W

The Congo Riding north to meet the gentle giants

R130,00 (includingVAT) Namibia N$130,00

The Cape A cultural excursion for true enthusiasts

MIDDLE EAST Part5

TRAVEL JOURNAL

Pondering the

promised land Starting in 2018, Patrick and Marie Gurney set out on an 18-month overland journey from France to South Africa. After exploring Turkey, they shipped their Hilux to Haifa for a two-week circuit of Israel.

Wild camping doesn’t get much more isolated than the vast and desolate Judean Desert. The only recognisable human traces are Kukuza,the track and spent cartridges.

TRAVEL JOURNAL

he ship was called Beryl. I boarded, along with 10 truck drivers, and we left Turkey for the Israeli port city of Haifa. I was on my own for this part of the trip – Marie had flown to South Africa for a quick business trip; she’d be joining me in a few days. Beryl was on her final journey before she was to be scrapped in Bangladesh. She looked every bit the part. It was noisy and hot inside and the cramped, four-berth cabin had little airflow and a large population of mosquitoes. I snored the loudest, apparently, so the truck drivers deserted the cabin and left me to face the mozzies alone. The voyage was supposed to take two days, but bad weather made it five before we dropped anchor just outside Haifa. Standard Israeli Customs and Immigration is preceded by an on-boat “interview”, which is more of an interrogation. If you don’t clear this, tough luck – you’re not going anywhere. I was woken at 3 am (a common tactic) to face three young and fiercely intimidating military officials who conducted my interview. It went something like this: “Why are you coming to Israel? Give me your phone, unlock it!” “What do you want to see in Israel? How long are you here?” “What?! You have your own car?” The questions came thick and fast, making it hard for me to gather my thoughts. It felt like a physical assault. One exhausting hour later, I texted Marie in Joburg:“I think I blew the interview; I doubt I’ll get in tomorrow with the car.” On our trip through Europe and Turkey so far, we’d usually just muddled our way through border posts. But things were different in the Middle East. Reliable information was hard to get beforehand, and my confidence was low. I simply wasn’t sure if I had all my ducks in a row to bring our Hilux, Kukuza, into the country. In anticipation of this problem, I had arranged to meet two local port 120 go! #179

agents to assist with the clearance process. After we docked, I met them both. The first agent seemed sketchy but the second was a personable 72-year-old named Yoel Gilead. I breathed a sigh of relief as Yoel requested the immigration official not to stamp my passport. We were still planning to drive through Egypt and Sudan – both of which wouldn’t let us in if we had recently visited Israel. Instead, I was given an official paper with my details and a stamp. “If you lose this, there is trouble,” Yoel warned me.“When you exit Israel, you hand it back in.” During the vehicle inspection Kukuza was surrounded by 15 heavily armed soldiers, with more arriving every minute. I was ordered to unpack the entire vehicle and everything down to our mattress got scanned. All was seemingly going well; I even managed to get a coffee. But suddenly everyone got spooked. A wild-eyed soldier marched towards me clutching a bunch of stickers. Immediately, I understood. Our pack of country flags, which we stuck on the Hilux as we went along, included many of Israel’s enemies: Iran, Palestine, Egypt… “Throw away the flags you don’t like,” I said, my heart pounding. He scrunched them up without hesitation. Anticipating another intense interrogation, I asked:“Who wants to stick the Israeli flag on the car?” This diffused the tension as a couple of excited offers came forward from the crowd. It was a stressful, seven-hour ordeal, but I managed to enter Israel with Kukuza. Our trip was on! But it would have to be short: The officials had only given us two weeks to blast through this biblical landscape. As I drove out, handing over the gate pass, Yoel turned to me and said: “We are done, but your first taste of Israel will be with me. You are my guest for the best hummus in Haifa!” Then he took me out to dinner.

Opposite page: The Hanging Gardens of Haifa. Right, from the top: HaZkenim falafel takeaway in Haifa. The Church of the Multiplication in Galilee is built on the spot where Jesus performed the miracle of five loaves and two fish. Marie and Patrick on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. The ancient city of Hippos still contains Greco-Roman ruins dating back to the 3rd century BC.

To Galilee for a tuna sandwich Marie flew into Tel Aviv and caught a train north to join me at Haifa Hostel – a well-run, budget-friendly place with great staff. We spent two days exploring the city’s beaches and the beautiful Hanging Gardens of Haifa, which is the major attraction. The site is central to the Bahá’í faith and was built in 2001 atop Mount Carmel, offering incredible views of the city. A special irrigation system maintains 19 manicured gardens over cascading terraces that stretch for a kilometre. In the centre is the shrine of the Báb, who founded the Bahá’í faith with a goal to achieve a unified world order that ensures prosperity for all. Climbing the 1 500 steps through the gardens was energy-sapping. Our guide recommended a poky takeaway joint called HaZkenim, where falafel was the main fare. We joined the queue outside and soon tucked into the tasty, crispy snack. It was time to get moving. We drove east for 320 km (about four hours) towards the Sea of Galilee. A tarred mountain route took us through Safed, which once was the centre of Jewish mysticism (the Kabbalah). Today, this Crusades-era fortress city is home to a community of sacrosanct Jewish religious scholars and bohemian artists. We browsed the impressive number of art galleries. The streets were filled with Jewish men wearing little black leather boxes, called tefillin, on top of their heads. Randomly, we bumped into a man called Dale who claimed to be Barbra Streisand’s cousin. Dale was intrigued by our Hilux and wanted to know more about our long overland journey. From Safed, we drove down to Tabgha on the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee. As a child, I was captivated by the story of Jesus feeding 5 000 people using a mere five loaves and two fish. The Church of the Multiplication, with its beautiful 5th-century mosaics, marks this spot. Galilee attracts many Christian pilgrims, as several of the miracles that Jesus performed occurred in this region. It was strange to sit at the water’s edge munching a tuna sarmie while contemplating miracles. (I tried the walking on water one, but it clearly takes practice!) Having navigated the entire Galilean coast (passing through Tiberias along the way), it was early evening and we still hadn’t found our first wild camping spot in Israel. We’re always a tad nervous in a new country – not everyone approves of wild camping – but we eventually found refuge at the ancient city of Hippos. We settled down stealthily in a parking lot, trying not to attract unwanted attention. But at 5.30 am, we heard a heavy rumble. I was up in seconds, out of the rooftop tent, pretending to make coffee. Four military Hummers rolled up! I waved and smiled and thankfully they seemed uninterested. We spent the morning exploring the ancient Greco-Roman ruins of Hippos – a small, fortified city built in the 3rd century. The city has massive red granite pillars from Egypt and a 50 km aqueduct to channel spring water into huge underground cisterns. Later, we found out that the Hummers belonged to an army base on the hill that we’d camped below the night before! Considering the militarised country we were in, they probably had the best night vision equipment money could buy. You always think nobody is watching when you take that late-night pee! go! #179 121

Wine tasting in the Golan Heights Once Syrian territory, the Golan Heights was the site of a fierce war with Israel. The latter was victorious and autocratically annexed the land in 1981. There were signs all over saying, “Danger! Mines!” and there were bunkers and abandoned tanks next to the road. We scrambled through the deserted Syrian bunkers, looking through peepholes. It was unfathomable to think that the majestic valley below was the site of a war not too long ago. A sombre mood usually requires an elixir of sorts, so we signed up for wine tasting. We turned into Pelter Winery, a family-run business established in 2001. They produce 150 000 bottles a year. Their white varietals were great – chardonnay, riesling, gewürztraminer – but the reds a little less so. We ordered a cheese platter and promptly made friends with a table of well-oiled twenty-somethings. The conversation flowed freely: One man called the compulsory two-year military service“a waste of time”. He said,“Us young people are tired of all these wars. We need to drop all this army stuff and start speaking to our neighbours.” Indeed, every checkpoint we passed was manned by young men and women. They looked too innocent to be kitted out in flak jackets, helmets and M16 assault rifles. That night, we were asleep in HaSolelim Forest Reserve when, at around 2 am, we woke up to what sounded like hoofs but turned out to be more than 30 soldiers running past on a training exercise.

From the top: In the Golan Heights, an old bunker and danger signs are stark reminders of the war that was fought here. Pelter Winery, Golan Heights. On a visit to Anis Daraghma on the West Bank, the Gurneys shopped and shared meals with his family. 122 go! #179

To get a taste of Israel’s neighbour, Palestine, we had arranged a date with a Palestinian family whom we knew from Cape Town. We crossed over to the West Bank and things changed immediately. It felt rural and neglected. We met up with Anis Daraghma (49, the youngest son in the family) and drove up to the final checkpoint. A big sign warned:“Zone A: It is forbidden for Israeli citizens to enter”. We spent three nights with the Daraghma family in the town of Tubas, where they have been shopkeepers for generations. We were spoiled rotten with delicious food and Marie was given a few Jilbab dresses (a loose-fitting tunic). These became priceless later on our journey in Jordan, Egypt and Sudan, where dressing like the locals made a big difference in how she was received, especially as a woman. We laughed and sometimes cried at the family’s stories about the ordeals they had gone through over the years. Before we left, they loaded us up with cardamon coffee, dates and grains. We also stocked up on our new favourite sweet – home-made Palestinian chocolate, which tastes like Nutella on steroids. It’s made by mixing one part carob molasses with one part date syrup, one part tahini paste, and a good dose of toasted sesame seeds.

TRAVEL JOURNAL

To Banksy’s Bethlehem Travelling to Jerusalem, we took a winding desert route via Jericho and Ramallah, both in the Palestinian West Bank (170 km, five hours). The GPS struggled to find a route and kept taking us to dead ends against a section of the 700 km Israeli/West Bank barrier. Eventually, a Good Samaritan directed us to the closest, quickest checkpoint. We had scheduled a night and two days in Jerusalem, which might seem insufficient, but it was all we could handle in the end. What a crazy, conflicted city! The Old City is split into four quarters – Muslim, Jewish, Christian and Armenian – and was frantic with tourists seeking their religious fix. We managed to squash into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, tick off the Wailing Wall, see the Dome of the Rock, and jostle along the Via Dolorosa. When evening arrived, most of the tourists retired to hotels elsewhere, leaving us to soak up a less chaotic and more spiritual atmosphere. The Old City has buckets of charm, with narrow streets and tiny shopfronts where you can pick up anything from a toilet brush to food, clothes and souvenirs. It’s this lived-in aspect that allows you to see it as much more than just a “museum town”. It’s extraordinary to think of all the tumultuous events that this city has experienced over the ages.

Clockwise from top left: Some of Jerusalem’s attractions include: The Western Wall (Wailing Wall); the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (site of the tomb of Jesus); the Al-Aqsa Mosque; Dome of the Rock (where Prophet Muhammad ascended to heaven), and the Old City. go! #179 123

TRAVEL JOURNAL Travelling from Jerusalem, it was a quick 45-minute drive (and one checkpoint through the security barrier) to get to Bethlehem. Budgets are always tight on a journey this long, but sometimes you must splurge. We booked into the quirky Walled Off Hotel (a play on the“Waldorf”) designed by British street artist Banksy. The hotel is a thought-provoking artwork in itself. It claims to have“the worst view in the world” as most rooms look onto the divisive concrete wall – seen by one side as a security measure and by the other as a way of enforcing apartheid. The location of the hotel is a slap in the face for Israelis: The site is officially under Israeli military control, so it’s 100% legal for Israelis to stay there, but all the roads to reach it involve an“illegal”journey through Palestinian territory. (Israel prevents entry to its citizens, I am not sure why.) This provocative space provides visitors with much-needed context for confronting the complicated Israeli-Palestinian conflict. The Walled Off Hotel is an art gallery, museum and a political protest all rolled into one. We stayed in the famous Pillow-fight Room where Banksy painted a mural. The artwork is so highly valued that we were charged a R10 000 security deposit upon check-in! Our breakneck tour of Israel was heading towards its conclusion. We were desperate for some respite from tourists in congested spaces, where historical conflict imbued everything. We turned east, driving along a disused track for about 60 km, high up into the stunning Judean Desert. Here, we could breathe again. It was a place of spiritual, eerie beauty. We camped wild for two nights (one on the plateau; the other next to the ruins of Zohar Fortress) taking in the vast open space. Next, we entered the Negev Desert in southern Israel. It covers 60% of the country and is full of amber-coloured canyons and concealed valleys. We had only two days left on our visas and we opted to spend our last night camping in the Ramon Crater Nature Reserve. This huge crater (10 km wide, 40 km long and 500 m deep) was formed by erosion over millions of years. It also contains a curious black hill in the centre, which was once an active volcano. At the visitors’centre, the receptionist asked whether we had 4x4 driving experience, which of course we did, so we signed up to drive the 30 km 4x4 route down to the crater floor. The descent was hair-raising but doable. After camping in the crater for the night, we took a different, more difficult route out. We had to build sections of road where the rock steps were too high for the Hilux – a good test of Marie’s sense of humour! Thankfully we spotted some Nubian ibex for cheer, and eventually, a tar road again. This reserve, with its rugged beauty, was the perfect place to end our trip through Israel. We could easily have stayed for much longer – it’s an eyeopening destination to visit; rewarding and complex. For every picturesque photographic moment, there’s another sight that boggles the mind and breaks the heart. Up next? The ancient city of Petra in Jordan was calling…

From the top: The Banksy-designed Walled Off Hotel on the Palestinian side of Bethlehem is quirky from the front entrance to the themed rooms – like the Pillow-fight Room depicting an Israeli soldier and a Palestinian youth – and lounge. Although Bethlehem is in Palestinian territory, it is under Israeli military control and segregated by means of this eight-metre-high barrier wall. 124 go! #179

Clockwise from top left: The road towards the Dead Sea and Aqaba, Jordan. A steep decline (4x4 only) takes you into the Ramon Crater. The crater has a black volcano mound in its centre.

Fast facts These prices are from 2018 and are meant to provide a rough idea of what the Gurneys spent on their trip. Prices would have gone up since then. HAIFA Haifa Hostel: R1 600 per night for two people. Falafel: R120 per pita (at HaZkenim). Entrance to Hanging Gardens of Haifa: Free.

Med i te rrane an S e a

RAMON CRATER Entrance: R100 per person. Camping: R300 per person per night. 4x4 trail: Free.

GALILEE & GOLAN HEIGHTS Entrance to Hippos: Free. Pelter Winery: R65 per person for a tasting of ﬁve wines; R300 for a cheese platter for two.

SHIPPING RoRo (roll-on, roll-oﬀ) shipping for the Hilux: R8 000 (Mersin in Turkey to Haifa in Israel). Accommodation on board: R2 250 (one person, including meals). Customs clearing: R6 200 (Yoel Gilead, atlaslogistics.co.il)

JERUSALEM Hotel HaRova: R2 200 per night for two people.

OTHER Cup of coﬀee: R45 – R55. Simple lunch: R300 p.p.

Safed Tabgha Tiberias

Haifa

BETHLEHEM Walled Oﬀ Hotel: R2 400 per night for two people, breakfast included.

Pelter Winery G o l an Hei gh ts

Mount Carmel

HaSolelim Forest Reserve Hippos

SYR I A S e a of G a li l e e

Tubas

NOTE We have already published the African leg of Patrick and Marie’s journey – see issues #158 to #166 for their travels through Egypt, Sudan, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe. This European part of the trip preceded the African leg. See issues #175 to #178 for their travels through France, Italy, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey. In the end, they visited 23 countries and travelled 50 000 km before arriving back home in Joburg on 19 December 2019.

We st B a n k ( Pal e st i n e )

Tel Aviv

Ramallah JERUSALEM Zohar

AMMAN

Jericho Bethlehem

Judean Desert

G aza St ri p (Pal e st i n e )

D e ad S ea

I SR A EL

JOR DAN

Negev Desert

Ramon Crater Nature Reserve

E GYPT

Petra

MORE INFO: info@skultcha.com; skultcha.com; Facebook: skultcha Instagram: @skulcha

go! #179 125

BIRDS BY FAANSIE PEACOCK

HOW TO FIND A BIRD IN A FOREST Plop! A big raindrop hits my forehead. But what did I expect? If you throw your head back and stare at the canopy in a downpour, you’re asking for it. It has been raining for two days straight. The forest ﬂoor has been taken over by streams and fat rain frogs. I’m covered in mud, soaked from head to toe, and my shins are scratched and bloody. I’m carrying two humps covered by a no-good rain jacket: a backpack with snacks and ﬁeld guides on my back, and a bag full of electronic and optical gear in front. In my left hand I have a microphone dish the size of a Weber braai lid, and in my right hand a pair of binoculars that costs more than my car. If a hiker encountered me on this forest trail, I wouldn’t blame him if he believed the stereotype of birdwatchers being a strange subspecies! I’m looking for a rare black-fronted bush-shrike in the forests of Magoebaskloof, Limpopo. I parked my Fortuner on a narrow forestry road hours ago; now I’m searching on foot. As I dry my spectacles for the 600th time, I wish someone had given me these tips for birdwatching in a forest:

EVERYONE LIKES A SUNNY SPOT. People tend to think that special birds are hidden away in the densest, darkest thickets, but birding is more productive along the edges of forests or in clearings where the sun breaks through the canopy. This is where insects are more active, grasses bear seeds, and the vegetation on the forest ﬂoor is more lush. It’s also easier to see a bird here than in the shadowy depths.

ANTON KRUGER

GREY CUCKOOSHRIKE BLACK-FRONTED BUSH-SHRIKE

LISTEN. When you’re in a forest, 90% of birding is done with your ears. Do your homework beforehand and memorise as many bird calls as you can. That’s easier said than done, so start simple: the“pretty Georgie”call of an African emerald cuckoo; the prrup-prrup-prrup of a bar-throated apalis; the ear-splitting whistle of Barratt’s warbler… And watch out for the chorister robin-chat: It mimics other birds’calls and can easily fool you.

ANTON KRUGER

GO SLOW. It’s better to cover only a hundred metres and see a handful of birds than to complete the route in record time with no sightings. Train your eyes to pick out movement: A few minutes ago, I became aware of a small bird quietly following me – a white-starred robin. And we both got a fright when a lemon dove burst from the undergrowth. This strategy has also led me to cross paths with the mythical buff-spotted flufftail – the most sought-after forest phantom.

JOIN THE PARTY! I’ve discussed mixedspecies ﬂocks in previous issues, where diﬀerent birds band together to look for food.

126 go! #179

If you can find such a flock in the forest, you’ll tick many species off your list. Keep an eye (and ear) open for square-tailed drongo, Cape batis and yellow-streaked greenbul – these three are usually at the centre of all the action. Try to keep up with the fast-moving flock for as long as you can.

LEAVE YOUR CAMERA AT HOME. Finding a bird high in the canopy is challenging enough and you have to be very lucky to get a winning shot. If you’re new to birding, focus on using your binoculars or even the naked eye.

THINK VERTICAL. A forest is like a big hotel where different species prefer different floors. Green twinspot, terrestrial brownbul, brown scrub-robin, orange ground-thrush and many other species live on the ground floor. Blue-mantled flycatcher, bush blackcap, narina trogon and olive bush-shrike prefer the middle floors, while grey cuckooshrike, yellow-throated woodland warbler and Knysna turaco like to hang out in the penthouse.

END THE OUTING WITH A SUNDOWNER. If you’ve had enough of the above-mentioned frustrations, ﬁnd a scenic viewpoint and sit back. Not only will you have a beautiful view and birdsong to listen to, but many of the forest species are easier to see from a high vantage point. Cape parrots and African olive pigeons ﬂy to and fro, black saw-wings hunt above the canopy, and crowned eagles loudly proclaim their ownership of this patch of earth.

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LETTER FROM

Kleinmond December brings GP number plates, throngs of relatives, and socially accepted day-drinking to Kyra Tarr’s seaside home town of Kleinmond in the Western Cape.

like winter. The colder and wetter it is, the deeper I huddle into my cocoon of warm beverages, broody Brontë novels and Harry Potter reruns. And in any case, since the “big C” struck and social activities wound down, my hermit party of one hasn’t felt out of place. I remember high school English lessons with our teacher, Mrs Crossman, as she taught us Shakespeare’s Macbeth – a tragedy about a power-hungry general, which is quite bleak from the outset. “The microcosm is reflected in the macrocosm!” she’d say, shaking the book at us for emphasis. Or, as I understood it, the miserable weather was an apt reflection of the turmoil unfolding in Macbeth’s heart and the world at large. Likewise, winter’s chill seemed to me an appropriate reflection of life under lockdown. Maybe Shakespeare was on to something, I mused as I filled my overworked kettle for yet another cup of coffee this morning. Spring days were breaking warmer and earlier, and I couldn’t help feeling a little brighter myself. Like most small coastal towns, Kleinmond exists for summer. Although it’s predominantly residential these days, there’s no denying the holiday energy that sweeps in with the first inland number plates of December. The Spar’s parking lot spills into the street. Shirts and shoes become optional. Ice-cream vendors sell granadilla lollies on the beach, and restaurants turn over draught beers to haggardlooking parents, matching the rate of toddler tantrums per hour. (About ten…) When I think back to my childhood summers in Kwazulu-Natal, I remember the comforting scent of Nivea sun cream mixed with salt water and the cling of Peaceful Sleep, and the bliss of climbing into cool, crisp sheets after a day in the ocean. Mind you, it’s easy to spend hours in the warm Indian Ocean… Kleinmond’s Atlantic takes some getting used to, no matter how ardently Wim Hof tries to convince my stuttering heart and numb limbs that cold water submersion is good for the body.

In Kleinmond, summer nights are citronella candles, kameeldoring braais and the sound of laughter from our neighbour’s yard drifting in through the kitchen window. Although summer no longer represents the unbridled freedom of a two-month school holiday, it still has a special allure. Bills and responsibilities which, in my older sister’s words, are “unspeakably boring” seem to matter less in summer, and there’s an unspoken collective understanding that drinking cider during the day is “festive” and not a reason for concern. Forget Bryan Adams’ “Summer of ’69”; true December classics include the annual fight about who’s hosting family Christmas this year and whether to invite that one uncle who nobody talks to because he’s on post-divorce girlfriend number five. Naturally, she’s only after his money, never mind the fact that she’s a lawyer herself. The truth must never get in the way of a good story! Then there’s the indepth analysis of all the grandkids’ respective study choices and, shame, that one cousin who’s still single and subjected to pitying looks and consoling arm pats by all the aunties. “Your time will come, bokkie,” Tannie Tinnie will say. “Girls are getting married later and later these days.” Be still my feminist heart. It’s mid-morning now and my office in the attic has me feeling like a baked potato shoved in the oven. I get up, stretch, and make my way to the garage. All this reminiscing has reminded me that it’s time to retire the old gas heater and dust off the standing fans. For all of summer’s joys, it does give rise to the Great Mosquito Resurgence. Next, I drag the heavy blankets off the beds and pack them away in the cupboard until next winter. I shove my boots and jerseys to the back of the closet and eye my shorts and sandals sceptically. I haven’t shown my knees in public for six months; the results could be terrifying for all. After some reorganising and clearing away the nasal spray and Efferflu-C tablets on the counter, I can begin to believe it: Summer is here. The final winter item I pack away are my concerns. They’ll keep until next year.

Spring days were breaking warmer and earlier, and I couldn’t help feeling a little brighter myself. go! #179 129

AFRICA AT ITS BEST

I was driving in the Skukuza region of the Kruger Park when I noticed a few cars parked on the side of the road. One of the people explained that they’d seen a leopard in a Cape ash tree, but all I could see was the tail hanging down through the foliage. I parked and waited. The sun was setting and it was almost gate-closing time. The cars started to leave to return to camp. I chose to wait ﬁve more minutes… Suddenly the leopard jumped out of the Cape ash and climbed into another tree – almost as if it wanted to appreciate the sunset from a better angle. My heart was pounding. It was the dream image I had been waiting for. I managed to take a few shots, then I also headed back to camp – my heart still with the leopard in that tree, soaking up the orange glow.

PICTURE ANNEMARIE DU PLESSIS

130 go! #179

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Articles inside

SIMON’S TOWN

LETTER FROM KLEINMOND

BIRDS

WITH MY OWN EYES

STAY HERE

TOURS

WHEELS

ED’S LETTER

UPFRONT

GEAR

WEST COAST

COLUMN: VELLIES

BAVIAANSKLOOF

FOOD

WILD COAST