Professional Beauty July-August 2022 by The Intermedia Group

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JUL•AUG 2022 THE BIBLE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

THE LUXURY ISSUE

Our Edit of Pure Luxe Skincare

BEAUTY EXPO IS BACK Your Guide What To See

YOUR GIFTS

www .payo t.com A professional can appreciate the beauty of the Payot Gift With Purchase Program Every 30 days while Payot revitialises your clients skin, the Gift Program energises your business. New gifts, new promotions and consumer advertising are excusively dedicated to the salon professionals and their customers. Join us for a gift with purchase program that continues to bring customers back to your salon. For full details of the 12 month Payot Gift With Purchase Program call 02 9874 1166 or 1300 367 969.

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payotaustralia

BEFORE

AFTER

The Versatile LED Device for Small Spaces & Light Lounges

The Most Powerful Portable LED System in the World

DERMALUX

The Dermalux Tri-Wave MD signifies a new era in LED Phototherapy treatments, pushing the boundaries of medical LED technology and next level clinical application. Bespoke high-power, single wavelength LEDs with variable optical power settings (High power ceramic LED technology) Configured to deliver more photons to the treatment area than any other LED device

Articulated 4 LED panel design: face, head & body Smart Cooling System: Temperature regulation for wavelength stability (consistency and longevity of device) A unique thermal management system via forced air cooling regulates the LED temperature to enable a more intensive energy treatment

20 pre-set standalone, combination & post treatment protocols Simple touch screen operation with a wide range of pre-set and custom protocols Photodynamic Therapy (PDT) Bespoke Photodynamic Therapy (PDT) programmed protocols based on joules delivered ARTG listed & Medically CE certified to treat Acne, Psoriasis, Wound Healing & Pain Relief (muscular skeletal)

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Medical CE

M A N U FAC T U R E R O F T H E Y E A R

MULTI -AWARD WINNING

SOTHYS ORGANICS™. ULTIMATE ORGANIC PERFORMANCE.

SOTHYS UNIQUE EXPERTISE Sothys professional skincare is truly unique. Sothys is in control of every phase of its product creation - from organic plant cultivation, to original molecular research, to applied research & development, to treatment creation & testing, to manufacturing at the highest standards - your guarantee of the highest safety and security in usage.

Sothys Australia

p: 1800 816 599

NATURES GARDEN Sothys operates an organic “Beauty Garden” in the pristine high country of the Dordogne, in central France. It was created out of environmental concerns for nature, and to remind humans of our inseparable connection to nature and the planet. A wide variety of indigenous plants are grown within the garden where some are used for botanical research.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FROM NATURE A number of plants grown within the Beauty Garden have proven of particular botanical interest for their unique properties… they contain biological extracts of high cosmetic bio-availability. The sap of the Corréze Birch tree has biologically active molecules (derived from Sothys Green Science Research) and forms the basis of Sothys active Organic line.

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EXCLUSIVELY IN BEAUTY CLINICS & SPAS

SOTHYS ORGANICS™. HARVESTING NATURE’S DYNAMICS.

SENSORIALITY NATURE SCIENCE CERTIFICATION

Sothys Advanced Research Laboratory has created the new Sothys Organics™ line: the perfect combination of active organic ingredients and advanced professional treatment efficiency in step with today’s environmental protection imperatives.

HOME-CARE RETAIL LINE OF ORGANIC PRODUCTS

SOTHYS EXCLUSIVE PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT

Sothys is partnering with Plastic Bank and has made its Sothys Organics™ range plastic neutral.

Sothys Australia

p: 1800 816 599

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EXCLUSIVELY IN BEAUTY CLINICS & SPAS

contents

22 56

0 9 JULY/AUGUST 2022 9 10 12 20 22 26 28 32 34 36 40 42 46 60

Editor’s letter What’s on PB radar News Beauty Investigation Cover Story - Otto Mitter Scalp Products Luxury Brands Skincare - Pre and Probiotics New Products What makes a luxury product? AAFW makeup trends Beauty Expo is back Talking Point - Beauty Expo exhibitors LoveFace

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62 65 72 74 78 80 82 84 86 88 90 94 96

Beauty Black Book Ingrid Seaburn Luxury Leaders Skinfluencer - Douglas Pereira Luxury Salon Owners Rae Morris Bans Fur Talking Beauty with Hannah Gay Webinar with Terri Vinson Wellness - Candles Lycon Waxing ABIC Beauty Escape - Palm Cove Last Word - BEAUTY & SPA Insiders Diary

On THE COVER

Ex-Imports Owner Otto Mitter, reveals his top five tips to the industry on how to build a successful brand. Turn to page 22.

editor's letter

PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN Simon Grover MANAGING DIRECTOR Craig Hawtin-Butcher chawtinbutcher@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Anita Quade aquade@intermedia.com.au NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER Julie Davidson jdavidson@intermedia.com.au ART DIRECTOR Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au ONLINE & SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Hannah Gay hgay@intermedia.com.au

WELCOME TO our bumper Luxury Edition – this is our biggest magazine in a few years and it’s a great reflection of how the beauty industry is thriving better than ever before. It’s one of my favourite issues to curate and we have chatted to the best in the industry to uncover just what makes a luxury product. Is it worth stocking these in your salons and should you put these high price items on your treatment menu? We chat to Skinfluencer Douglas Pereira who has more than 25 years experience in the industry and also formulates his own signature label. He reveals the amount of research and expense that goes into truly delivering products that work for the prestigious price-point on page 72. One of the absolute pioneers in the industry is Otto Mitter, Owner Ex-Imports – and I chat to him for our cover story. He is a wealth of knowledge and shares his top five tips for brand building on page 22. We also speak to six powerhouses in the Luxury Leaders feature on page 65 – they continue to be trailblazers in the skincare world. Find out their stories and what they have in store for 2022 and beyond. And finally, we are just as overjoyed as everyone in the industry that after a hiatus the annual Beauty Expo is back, to be held from August 20-21; make sure to mark the date in your diary! It’s the largest gathering of beauty brands, and promises to offer an incredible opportunity to network and learn. Turn to page 42. The next major date on our beauty calendar is our BEAUTY & SPA Insiders event – stay tuned for all the updates on our social media and check out: www.beautyandspainsiders.com.au Enjoy the read – see you at the Expo!

BEAUTY WRITER Shania O'Brien sobrien@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@intermedia.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS

Professional Beauty magazine is published by BHA MEDIA ABN 23142047943 41 Bridge Road, Glebe NSW 2037 Ph: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 www.intermedia.com.au AUSTRALIAN SUBSCRIPTION RATES 1yr (6 issues) for $89.00 (inc GST) 2yrs (12 issues) for $160.20 (inc GST) 3yrs (18 issues) for $213.60 (inc GST) To subscribe and to view other overseas rates visit www.intermedia.com.au or Call: 1800 651 422 Email: subscriptions@intermedia.com.au

Ingrid Seaburn

Terri Vinson

Otto Mitter

This beauty therapist and owner of her signature Studio in Bondi reveals the secrets to maintainging return clientele in our Beauty Blackbook on page 62.

To celebrate the launch of Professional Beauty’s new webinar series, see a snippet of the conversation with the owner of Synergie Skin and how she defines the clean movement on page 82.

Ex-Imports Director Otto Mitter is a pioneer in the industry and he shares what he has learnt about building a successful brand with some wise advice on page 22.

“The ability to connect with a client happens in the first five minutes and that is all in the touch and the conversation to establish skin goals. The client's experience is so important to me whether you are a celebrity or a regular client.”

“We need to break it down into what sort of natural and organic ingredients are being used [in skincare] and there's two different very different movements: there's the clean beauty movement, and then there's the Clean Science movement.”

“Positivity when collaborating is huge, it’s not always easy to stay positive in the face of challenges, but as a leader you need to be strong and dig deep in those moments and pull your team up when they are falling down.”

BHA MEDIA Pty Ltd.

This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

ON OUR THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EVENTS THAT PRO BEAUTY IS CURRENTLY CRUSHING ON

READY, RESET, GO!

Emma Lewisham has announced the release of her eponymous brand's highly-anticipated new product, the Skin Reset Eye Creme. Its release is preceded by two years of research and development and contains eighteen scientificallyproven, high-performing active ingredients and two liposomal delivery systems. The cream derives its magic from saccharide isomerase and hyaluronic acid, scientifically proven to remain in the skin's epidermis for up to 72-hours. For more, contact hello@emmalewisham.co.nz

“A scientifically backed, 100 percent natural Eye Crème has undoubtedly been the most requested product from our customers. We’ve wanted to add this product to our range for some time. But we’re committed to taking the time needed to ensure each new product is category-defining and delivers on our natural and scientifically backed ethos.” J’ADORE VIVIOLOGY

Adore Beauty has launched a new cosmecutical range, Viviology, with Melbourne dermal therapist James Vivian. The six-piece range is packed with active ingredients and was created on the back of intense scientific research and designed specially to make skincare simple, fun, and inclusive. The collection includes foaming cleanser, liquid exfoliant, retinol serum, niacinamide + HA serum, vitamin C serum, and a ceramide moisturiser. For more, call 03 9827 1331.

“Since the inception of cosmeceuticals in recent years, I’ve seen clients and consumers faced with an overload of products and information that can leave them and their skin feeling confused and overwhelmed. I was driven to create a brand that made one look and feel great, was straight forward, full of active ingredients and didn’t break the bank.”

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PB radar

OMNILUX DAZZLES WITH LED

The at-home Omnilux CLEAR is a simple way to stay on top of your salon skincare routine when time is not on your side. Omnilux is best known for their professional medical-grade devices. The product is a simple flexible plastic mask that can be worn with a velcro catch at the back to do it up. It is advised to leave the mask on for a maximum of ten minutes a day, 3 to 5 days a week for six weeks for the initial treatment. It works because of medical light therapy technology which has exhibited positive results for acneprone skin. LED masks are designed to focus on reducing fine lines, simulating collagen production, and combating mild cases of acne. For more, contact info@omniluxled.com.

FAST FACT: A lot of ‘luxury’ products succeed because of a placebo effect. According to a psychologist at the Golden Gate University in San Francisco, consumers are inherently conditioned to obey marketing cues that work against them. For example, people often rationalise price differences by convincing themselves that an expensive product must work better. A consumer is more likely to trust a high price tag and opulent packaging over a cheaper counterpart merely because it is and looks more expensive.

BEAMING BABOR

With the focus shifting to soft and glowy makeup, we cannot help but long for Babor’s nourishing high-gloss lip oil. Available in ‘Juicy Red’ and ‘Pearl Pink,’ the new lip product will turn heads and soften lips in what is sure to be Australia’s coldest winter. The formula is non-sticky and contains cherry seed oil that generates lips that are super glossy and velvet soft. For more, call 1800 139 139.

FAST FACT: Unlike the rest of our body, our lips do not have sebaceous glands — which is why wax-based lip balms are band-aid solutions to long-term lip care.

(LITERALLY) GOING GREEN

The Dermaenergy Kale Peel is better known as a green smoothie for your skin. The peel is overflowing with protective antioxidants, restorative trace elements, and acids to increase cellular turnover. Its overall effect aims to increase the healthiness and vitality of skin, as kale, blue green algae, and chlorophyll all help infuse essential greens into the epidermis. The Kale Peel also contains a proteolytic enzyme that helps to ignite and commence exfoliation, which is further enhanced with Alpha Hydroxy Acids + Beta Hydroxy Acids. Dermaenergy also has multiple fruit peels — such as the Berry and Enzyme Peel — which are free of salicylic acid. On the other hand, the vegetable peels (Pumpkin & Kale Peel) are salicylic acid based and create heat. For more, call 1300 799 709.

“They are designed to be more indulgent and luxurious.”

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

news

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY JOINS ABIC AS FOUNDATION MEMBERS The Aesthetic & Beauty Industry Council (ABIC) has welcomed Professional Beauty as a Foundation Member of its Australia-wide community of beauty professionals. What is ABIC? ABIC is an industry-governed body led by Stefanie Milla, and was built by and for Australian beauty and aesthetics businesses. The council provides a united voice for the industry at-large, striving toward gains in working conditions for its members. The aim of the partnership between ABIC and Professional Beauty is to provide salon, spa and clinic workers with a stream of educational resources produced by trusted industry leaders. Why Professional Beauty? For 27 years, Professional Beauty Australia has served as a constant source of news, inspiration and ideas crafted for salon owners via a print magazine, curated website and twice-weekly newsletter. In each bi-monthly issue of Professional Beauty, ABIC will feature exclusive content surrounding an issue of

significance to industry professionals. Such written content will appear across Professional Beauty’s channels with the aim of benefitting its readers. The first of such content ran in Professional Beauty's May-June 2022 issue on Sustainability. In turn, Professional Beauty will have access to ABIC leaders and members. The publication will then provide a platform for individuals to voice their questions and concerns. Copies of Professional Beauty magazine will be placed in the hands of ABIC leaders in hopes of further driving reform. What they're saying On the adoption of Professional Beauty as a Foundation Member, ABIC CEO and Director Stefanie Milla said: “We are thrilled about the partnership between ABIC and Professional Beauty as we believe that communication and education are important cornerstones for the growth

and advancement of our industry. It’s imperative our members are provided with up-to-date, credible resources and guidance on the topics that specifically impact them and their work. Utilising Professional Beauty’s long-standing readership means we can get more eyes across the information that matters most.” For Professional Beauty Editor Anita Quade, the partnership was a no-brainer: “We are so thrilled to have this synergy with ABIC, it’s a win-win situation for everyone in the industry. This partnership will give Professional Beauty access to the leaders and game changers who shape the beauty landscape and in turn, we can provide a much-needed platform across our magazine and digital channels to showcase the issues and solutions to the challenges that many face in business.” For more information on this exciting partnership, contact us via info@professionalbeauty.com.au.

GLAMEZY LAUNCHES SALON SEARCH FUNCTIONALITY We’ve all had this experience: you’ve recently moved to a new area to live or work, but are in desperate need of a manicure/wax/facial/all of the above! You’re not familiar with the local beauty businesses available, but want to ensure you connect with a salon that will really deliver. It can feel like a minefield attempting to source a spot. Enter Glamezy. Australian-based salon software company Glamezy has recently launched a location-based salon search tool to the public. The search tool is accessible via the company’s website, and will soon launch via its own app. Glamezy is currently building their salon partner database, with hopes of securing a broad, Australia-wide network of partners in the near future. A number of Sydney-based salons have already signed up, with business expansion planned for Brisbane and Melbourne by 2023. The platform was created to provide a quick, easy-to-navigate list of beauty services within close proximity of the user. The

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idea is to take the leg work out for the user by researching businesses within reach of their homes and workplaces. Glamezy CEO and Co-Founder, Uchiraka Yatawara believes this search tool creates a seamless end-to-end experience, where partnering beauty businesses are able to generate new clients. “Glamezy is a necessary innovation after a tough two years throughout the cosmetic industry,” Uchiraka says. “It actively connects our partners to people searching for hair and beauty services in their area. Partners also benefit from payment security.”

SkinMTX

Clinically Researched Formulation

Elevate Your Aesthetic Clinic With SkinMTX

Trusted by Dermatologists, Aesthetic Doctors and Medi-Spas ®

SkinMTX offers a complete range of formulations from in-clinic solutions to post-procedure home care and special care. ®

A perfect companion to your aesthetic clinic, SkinMTX pushes the boundaries of efficacy to offer high potency products that are specially designed and formulated to penetrate optimally into skin to achieve visible results.

ANTI-AGEING Activate skin’s restorative ability for lasting youthfullooking skin and vitality

DERMAT Recommended for postlaser and post-procedure

ANTI-ACNE

BRIGHTENING

Purify skin for long-lasting mattness and a comfortable feeling of freshness

SPECIAL CARE Boost your skincare regime to reveal flawless skin

Improve the appearance of pigmentation and even skin tone for luminosity

IN-CLINIC Professional monodose treatment kits to nurture and optimise healthy-looking skin

skinmtx.com.au | 1800 242 011

news

FOUR STYLISH BEAUTY SPACES RECOGNISED IN DULUX AWARDS WINNERS OF THE 36th annual Dulux Colour Awards were announced recently, with four beauty spaces securing their spots as finalists. The awards are put on by the paint brand to acknowledge Australian and New Zealand commercial and residential spaces that have utilised Dulux paint colour in an innovative way. The four beauty spaces to be selected as finalists include Aesthetik Skin and Laser Clinic in Coburg VIC, Buff Nail Studio in Brighton VIC, Vida Glow HQ in North Sydney NSW, and New Me in Booragoon WA. The four make up a total of 103 finalists. On the awards, Dulux Colour and Communications Manager, Andrea Lucena-Orr says “architects and designers have really pushed the boundaries with colour application to create inspiring, engaging - and often surprising - interior and exterior spaces.” Trending across all commercial spaces were deeper and darker tones, as well as vivid reds, blues and greens. Rich, warm, earthytones were also popular, as they feel “inviting” to staff and their clients, Andrea notes. “Retro 80’s inspired pastel shades of pinks, apricot, lemon and green, offering a touch of excitement and fun, have been injected into retail and work spaces too,” Andrea adds. “I love the joyous colours that have been woven into these projects, by simply using hues that add life and a sense of delight to these settings.” The final awards were judged by a panel of esteemed interior and architecture experts, with winners announced at a gala event in Melbourne last month. Check out the four beauty finalists and their spaces.

Aesthetik Skin and Laser Clinic by Joanne Motee

Dulux Colour Awards 2022 - Commercial Interior: Workplace & Retail | Photographer: Edmund Bourrilhon

New Me by Rezen Studio Dulux Colour Awards 2022 Commercial Interior: Workplace & Retail | Photographer: Jack Lovel

Buff Nail Studio by Design by Golden Dulux Colour Awards 2022 - Commercial Interior: Workplace & Retail | Photographer: Sharyn Cairns

Vida Glow HQ by Arent&Pyke

Dulux Colour Awards 2022 - Commercial Interior: Workplace & Retail | Photographer: Anson Smart

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GLOBAL LEADERS IN MICRONEEDLING CLINICALLY PROVEN TO Visibly reduce wrinkles and acne scarring to improve overall skin structure.

THE EXCEED DIFFERENCE • • • •

Adjustable needle speed and depth Low vibration and quiet running Engineered and manufactured in Germany Tilting needle plate for minimal epidermal trauma, increasing client comfort • 2 year warranty (optional extension)

GLOBAL CERTIFICATIONS • Patented safety membrane to prevent back flow of liquid and ensure no risk of contamination • Medical device certification (CEO123) according to MDD and DIN EN ICO 13485 standard • TGA listed (ARTG: 315425) • FDA approved • Medsafe listed ARTG 315425, ARTG 338345

1300 420 223 223 1300 420 enquiries@skincorrection.com.au enquiries@skincorrection.com.au

by derma aesthetics

Scan to become a microneedling expert by derma aesthetics

news

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY AND JOBBIO ANNOUNCE PARTNERSHIP ATTRACTING AND developing talent is crucial to the future of the beauty industry. That is why Professional Beauty is delighted to launch an exciting new partnership with Jobbio’s Amply network to bring you Professional Beauty Jobs. We have teamed up to create a customised job board, empowering people to find great job opportunities through a seamless recruitment platform, to offer our readers a job board featuring top career opportunities across Australia. Professional Beauty will also be offering an extended array of career and recruitment advice via news and features, to help our readers continue to progress.

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Together, we are connecting companies with prospective candidates who may not be actively looking for a new role. This not only helps business owners add to their talent pool and find the cream of the crop, but it ensures workers are aware of all the opportunities open to them. Powered by Jobbio’s Amply network, this new job board is bolstered by thousands of incredible jobs and offers a practical solution to the vast hiring challenges in Australia right now. Speaking about this partnership Craig Hawtin-Butcher, Managing Director of BHA Media, says: “Professional Beauty is known as the ‘bible of the Australian

beauty industry’ and has been for almost 30 years. Talent management is an increasing concern for our industry and we believe this partnership with Jobbio’s Amply network will be a positive development for all, by connecting open roles and employer brands with our readership.” Meanwhile, CEO of Jobbio, Stephen Quinn says. “We specialise in getting the right roles and companies in front of the right audiences. This partnership with Australia’s leading beauty trade publication offers just that, ensuring more people find their dream jobs and more business leaders can secure the talent they so urgently seek. Professional Beauty Jobs will help to cut through all the noise on the internet, resulting in a more successful match.” To search thousands of jobs across Australia, or get your job listed where people will see it, visit www.jobs.professionalbeauty.com.au.

new daily milkfoliant smooth + soothe skin make peace with daily exfoliation

For more information and to become a Dermalogica stockist scan here.

news

SKINCEUTICALS' MASTER AESTHETICIAN EVENTS THIS JULY, SkinCeuticals are running their long-awaited in-person Master Aesthetician Events. Events are running across three major cities - Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne. SkinCeuticals’ Head of Scientific & Communications Manager, Dr Tania Romano told Professional Beauty what guests were to expect from the 2022 events: What can aestheticians expect to get out of attending this year’s Master Aesthetician events? “At SkinCeuticals we are passionate about education for our partnering doctors, nurses and aestheticians. We are excited to be launching our first ever Master Aesthetician Events in July. These are one day events dedicated to the professional and personal development of Australian aestheticians. The aim of the day is to provide an educational experience for all aestheticians. There will be focus on both personal development and business growth. The invited speakers come from a variety of backgrounds and will be sharing knowledge that will empower and educate everyone in attendance. Topics will span technical knowledge from key opinion leaders, case studies from some of Australia’s leading aestheticians and integrated skincare [specialists].”

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Speaking as a representative of the professional beauty industry, what differentiates hosting an in-person event from a digital event? “We have all joined in on our fair share of online or virtual events over the last few years of the pandemic. Although there is definitely a place for online events, we feel that it is incredibly difficult to network and collaborate in an online space. Our in-person Master Aesthetician events will allow us to begin creating an amazing community of like minded aestheticians who can work together for the best patient outcomes. Attendees will be able to have a complete sensory experience on the day, with opportunities for participation that just wouldn’t work with an online event. "Our in-person Master Aesthetician events will allow us to begin creating an amazing community of like minded aestheticians who can work together for the best patient outcomes." What makes SkinCeuticals an authority in delivering ideas and advice to Australian skincare professionals? “SkinCeuticals is advanced skincare backed by science, and is the #1 Medical Aesthetic Skincare Brand World Wide*. We have over 30+ peer reviewed scientific

papers on our products in various medical journals. This is the highest standard of scientific integrity, and we pride ourselves on the enormous amount of research and development that goes into each and every SkinCeuticals product. This is a rarity in the world of cosmeceuticals. Our scientific background is what makes SkinCeuticals the cosmeceutical of choice for many of Australia’s top dermatologists, plastic surgeons, cosmetic physicians, and aestheticians. Can you share any insight as to who may be speaking? “We are proud and excited to announce that our keynote speaker for each Master Aesthetician event will be Dana Vulin. Dana has an incredible life story, being a burns survivor who is now an aesthetic nurse who aims to help others with their aesthetic concerns. We will also showcase leading aestheticians in each state who will present on various topics. Some highlights include Alex Pike (Face by Alex Pike) presenting on how aestheticians can build on their personal brand (Melbourne event), Nicki Lurie (Shape Clinic) discussing the importance of skin homecare (Sydney Event), and Dr Davin Lim presenting at the Brisbane Event.” * Source: Kline & Company Global Professional Skincare 2021 report series, manufacturers’ sales in medical care channel for FY2021.

www.intraceuticals.com

THE NEW AND

IMPROVED INFLUENCER

If you’re worried about how your marketing strategies are affected by the new TGA laws — you’re not the only one, writes Shania O'Brien.

PEOPLE OFTEN look to celebrities and influencers for guidance on what to wear, what trends are in, and most importantly: what products to use. It is almost second nature to look up your favourite internet personality on TikTok or Instagram, to scroll through their content until you find a video titled ‘Get Ready With Me’ or ‘This Is My Nighttime Routine.’ Expressed in numbers, 48% of the world is on some form of social media, and 54% of those people use online platforms to follow their favourite celebrities, browse websites, and make purchasing decisions. And companies have been taking significant advantage of these statistics, focus on influencer marketing. Research has found that at least 30% of people are influenced by celebrity endorsements and are more likely to consume brands they recognise if a celebrity they look up to personally champions a product. This happens because elements of the celebrity and the brand reflect onto each other and combine; many would recognise Kendall Jenner as the face

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of Estée Lauder and Naomi Campbell as the brand ambassador for Pat McGrath. The Australian Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) recently released a new code designed to regulate the promotion and advertising of therapeutic products. The code came into effect on 1 January 2022, but there is a six-month transition period so the deadline for ensuring compliance with the code is 30 June 2022 — which is when it officially comes into effect all over Australia. Essentially, the code sets out requirements for the promotion of therapeutic goods such as cosmeceuticals, sunscreen medical devices, vitamins, to ensure that such advertising will promote quality use of the products, is socially responsible, and will not mislead or deceive customers. Hence, the new code is a positive step from the TGA taken to protect consumers — not to ban influencers from promoting products. Testimonials are not permitted by those involved in the production, sale, supply, or marketing of the goods, so no one who directly stands to profit from the

product’s success is allowed to provide positive attestation to the quality of the product. Businesses make an average of $5.20 for every dollar they spend on influencer marketing, a rate that is only projected to go up with the emphasis on people being increasingly online due to various factors such as lockdowns, isolation, scrolling on social media while waiting for an email to come in, and whatnot. When the code was first announced in December 2021, there was a severe degree of misinformation being spread regarding what changes were actually being made. In clear terms, the code governs paid and gifted testimonials and bans influencers from providing paid testimonials in return for cash or samples — it does not ban them from endorsing or promoting a product in exchange for money or gifts. It simply limits the health advice they can give as they are (usually) unqualified to give health advice. It is presently required for influencers to declare when their content is paid, such as by using hashtags like #ad or #paidpartnership, the only extra thing they will need to follow from now is refrain from

beauty investigation

posting personal testimonials about how the product has worked for them. This was introduced because the TGA wants to ensure the health and safety of all consumers, and to make brands adhere to higher ethical standards that require them to focus on the quality of the product rather than the strength of the testimonial. Additionally, unrealistic claims have also been known to cause distress among consumers when products they purchase do not work in the exact manner as an influencer claimed it would — for example, an eye cream not getting rid of all fine lines immediately or using a nail hardener and still struggling with brittle nails. However, it is important to note that the TGA is not responsible for brands that do not claim to offer health benefits. According to the TGA, a ‘testimonial’ refers to when “an individual has testified to the outcomes they experienced from the use of the therapeutic good. An endorsement, on the other hand, is made where an individual approves of a particular therapeutic good, but there is no indication as to the outcomes from the use of the good.” Hence, it’s okay for an influencer to partner with a company and post about the product, they just cannot claim to have experienced specific results from it such as that it “significantly reduced redness” or “cleared all fine lines” from their face; or post ‘before’ and ‘after’ shots of using a certain product as there is no proof that the results are genuine. Advertisers, including influencers, who do not comply risk committing an offence under section 42DM of the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989 or breaching the civil penalty provision in section 42DMA, each of which could attract significant penalties. It is extremely unlike that brands will reduce their investments in influencer marketing because of this, as the expected industry valuation at the end of 2022 is $16.4 billion. The code does not affect reviews and posts from people who have not been incentivised — so if a consumer just really, really enjoyed a product, they are free to post all the personal testimonials they desire. However, the TGA was clear about the brand’s responsibility under the new code: “Business owners are responsible for the content of any social media page created or managed by them, including websites,

“Businesses make an average of $5.20 for every dollar they spend on influencer marketing, a rate that is only projected to go up” social media channels, blog posts, hashtags, or discussion forums.” They added, “This responsibility extends to user-generated content, such as thirdparty comments posted on those social media platforms that are controlled by the business.” Hence, all advertising for therapeutic goods must promote the safe and responsible use of those products and must not take advantage of consumers, including through third party comments on social media. Professional Beauty spoke with influencer Shahrzad Kahrobai — better known as TheSpotBeauty — about the updated TGA law in order to get a sense of how it will affect her and her work. Shahrzad mainly focuses on eco-conscious products, sustainable beauty, and wellness. She has previously worked with brands such as Biossance, Synergie Skin, and MŪN Skincare. “I’m passionate about holistic healing and try to adopt a more plant-based approach when it comes to my wellness and beauty,” she told PB. Shahrzad has also been a judge for eco, organic, and sustainable beauty and wellness products for the last four years internationally and in Australia, such as the Clean + Conscious Beauty Awards, the

Beauty Shortlist Awards, and the Clean Certification Awards. When asked about how she thought the TGA laws would affect her specifically, she said: “I think the TGA laws will have an effect on some of my content. I also feel that the new changes may put a pause on certain campaigns as some brands may choose not to work with influencers because of this.” She added, “I also feel that these changes may not warrant an influencer's opinion or results, something that in the past was quite important.” While the updated law calls for more clarity and more accountability in terms of how a product functions, Shahrzad believes there will be ramifications on the influencer marketing industry as a whole. “Brands will change their approach on how they advertise and market certain products due to the new TGA laws,” she said. “Influencers will also adopt a different approach to make sure they meet the new guidelines, for example, the sharing of our opinions and results will now change because of this.” “But there will always be a place for trusted influencers in the industry,” she added. And while there are always roadblocks, the opportunity to grow above and beyond them has never presented itself more clearly. The change means that the laws are no longer different for influencers and more traditional types of advertisement such as television — everyone and all formats are now subject to the same rules and regulations. This will increase the level of trust consumers place in social media marketing and advertising, and it will slowly gnaw away at the fear that the famous influencer is misleading the public about a product they do not even use. Existing research on such forms of marketing have identified that identification with the endorser and their perceived credibility both play a significant role in endorsement marketing; hence the updated laws only stand to increase the public’s trust in influencers as their content can no longer be labelled exaggerated for promotional purposes. In fact, it can also be argued that the regulation is a sign of the growth in the influencer industry and its success as a mainstream marketing tool. n For further details check out: https://www.tga.gov.au/therapeutic-goodsadvertising-code

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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BRAND BUILDING BUILDING A brand or business is one of the most challenging projects that you can ever embark on with your life’s journey. The average person will spend 90,000 hours of their life dedicated to their job and when you own your own business, chances are you’ll spend even more time than this, working after hours and doing absolutely anything you can to reach those business goals. I spend at least 60 hours a week working on my company, I have the pleasure of working alongside my wife at the helm, but this in turn does become very difficult for us to switch off when we get home because we’re both so passionate about the growth of the company and we have so many goals to achieve. When it comes to creating business plans, anybody can do Google searches on how to grow a successful company and there will be hundreds of different business mentors and marketing gurus that can successfully show you strategies on how to grow your business. I want to share some simple methodology on the top 5 principles that work for me and what has been fundamental in helping me create a global brand that is now available with distributors in over 60 countries around the world.

1/ THE DAILY PRIORITIES

As most companies grow you need to employ more team members to help you reach your goals and cope with the excess workload and activity that is being created. Having more team members though, does require more management and more resources in general, so with growth comes more responsibilities and this in turn takes its toll on you mentally and physically. It’s crucial to try and not get overwhelmed when you start going through this process and if you feel you are, just break it down to the daily priority. I work this into a few

Building a business and growing your company is a challenge in the ever-changing market. Industry leader and managing director of Ex-Imports Otto Mitter tells Anita Quade the top five ways to ensure success.

Review your goals frequently and set new goals according to any changes you need to make. Yes we’ve all heard the ‘set goals’ advice before, however, do we actually do it? sections that are all about setting some clear goals and having a good strategy. Review your goals frequently and set new goals according to any changes you need to make. Yes we’ve all heard the “set goals” advice before, however, do we actually do it? The world of business can move quickly, you might have new treatments you bring into your menu, you might have a new product range you wish to launch or you might have some expansion in your premises that needs to come to fruition. Goals can change very quickly depending on many factors. Staying on top of this helps you know where you’re going and where you have been, but if you don’t have them, you can find yourself wondering what to do next, which can cause a lot of unwanted stress and slows down the process of getting ahead. Pinpoint tasks Identify tasks that give you the most return. This is something that also changes frequently, for example don’t get caught up each day scrolling on Facebook or Instagram looking at what your competitors are doing. Tackle those emails one at a time and do them with gusto, cut out the unnecessary details and keep on point, maximising your time.

Team goals Keep your team motivated. There are many ways of finding out your team members currency, find out what that is and do something with it, because having your team motivated is critical to maximising output. It’s very easy to fall into a rut with day to day tasks, you get way too busy to check in on what your team is doing, you’re trusting that everything is going well and then when you check in on the projects, you might not actually be hitting those goals you had in mind. There are various ways to motivate your team such as finding mentors for them or creating team building activities, but importantly show them your support. If they don’t have your support and you’re too distant this can lead to a lack of motivation and a disconnection within your team. Collaboration is key Team work is all about collaboration and when collaborating with team members it’s very important to set clear time lines on the projects you are working on. It took me a little while to value the importance of requesting deadlines, I certainly learned the hard way, by giving people a job and just trusting it would be done promptly or within an acceptable time. After being let down a few times, I really got into the habit of ensuring a timeline is always put to everything. Using project management apps like Asana, Monday or a “work in progress action plan” on a cloud drive is imperative so you can log in and review goals and essentially have the reporting for the projects and priorities at the click of a button. What I’ve found over the years is people can go into auto pilot mode after a certain time. I’ve adopted a 10 questions deep mentality, if you ask team members what they are working on today and they

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

KEY POINTS TO HELP YOU BE MORE RELIABLE: ♦D o what you say you are going to do, then people start trusting you. ♦B e timely, showing up on time shows people you care. ♦B e responsive, when you’re reliable you respond to requests and questions promptly.

say a basic answer like “just working on education” that could mean a whole lot of things, there’s a lot of facets to education, but if I ask more questions to unravel more details I find that after 10 questions deep into a conversation you can really find out the full story of what is going on and have a better picture. Don’t settle for responses that don’t give enough details. The power of positivity Surround yourself with positive people, sounds easier than it is, but it’s another crucial ingredient to business success and productivity. Positivity when collaborating is huge, it’s not always easy to stay positive in the face of challenges, but as a leader you need to be strong and dig deep in those moments and pull your team up when they are falling down. Daily exercise and selfcare. Do you do it? When I was younger I was always active but then all of a sudden I was in a trap for years where I literally just worked, worked and worked and didn’t make time to work on my health. Work was more important right? Since I changed that I’ve seen improvements in confidence, focus and overall performance which helps me to keep the momentum going.

2/ NETWORKING

It is endless the amount of networking that needs to be done to create a successful brand. To be successful you need people and to get the people, well… you need to network. It’s not always as simple as having a product, doing some ads and then all of a sudden people want to work with you or use your products.

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Start networking before you need it don’t wait! Make a plan and think about what you are wanting to achieve. Are you selling a product or service? Then once you are networking are you going to be prepared with the information that the contacts are you going to ask you for? Be super organised and fast! Don’t take forever to get back to people you network with, everyone’s time is precious. Forget your personal agenda – Let people know they are the priority! Let them know that you are interested in whatever it is they have to say or contribute. Never dismiss anyone as unimportant, you never know when that person will be able to help you. Figure out how you can be useful. – Assist people with no expectations, what are your core skills when collaborating? Can you facilitate at workshops or set up the events and meetings? Be prepared to dive in and show your value when networking with people. Helping people usually comes back to reward you in more ways than you expect. Follow up and follow through. One of the fastest ways to kill your business. People will lose interest in working with you if you don’t follow up and follow-through. Believe in the power of networking, don’t underestimate the power of networking! It’s a powerful tool.

3/ THE ART OF RELIABILITY In our company we have many facets to what we do, reliability is a huge part of creating trust with our customers and having success in our company. Therapists

♦B e organised and be accountable. This shows people that you care about their needs. ♦B e consistent, this is a hard one to do sometimes, but is a crucial element in showing people that you’re reliable.

need to rely on our distributors having products in stock and providing a good service and they need to rely on our educators to ensure they uphold high standards and deliver material that will give them the best results with their clients when performing treatments. The list goes on and on, but the point being, is reliability is everything and you can’t ever forget it. If you aren’t reliable in business this is another quick way to start losing customers. Reliability creates trust and trust is one of the fundamental components of successful partnerships and growth. If a client comes to you to get a set of lashes applied, they’re trusting that you’re going to do a great job and that you’re going to apply the lashes safely and correctly with beautiful styling and high standards. Reliability is the way of creating trust with your clients and I’ve seen over the years unfortunately when people aren’t reliable what happens. If educators don’t respond to their students quickly with answers or the correct support that they need we get feedback that that person is unreliable and straight away that is harmful to their business! People simply don’t want to work with them anymore. Reliability requires discipline, you need to think

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about how you want to be treated and how important it is when “you” have to rely on someone. Never forget that point, it can destroy your business real fast if you don’t master the art of reliability.

4/ PRACTISING GRATITUDE Another key principle that I’m a big believer in is practising gratitude, staying positive, keeping humble and being grateful for the opportunities that you have. To show you’re grateful for what people do for you is just a huge part of building the relationship with your network, your clients, customers, distributors or whoever you’re working with. It’s great to stay positive and really project that gratitude for the opportunities people give you along the way when you’re working and collaborating together. Everybody benefits more when you have a positive culture happening within your business and whether you’re a small salon with just a few people or a really big business with lots of employees or people on the team, gratitude shows you care and when your team or customers know you care, that makes a big difference.

SOME EXAMPLES OF PRACTISING GRATITUDE ARE: ♦A cknowledging your work colleagues for taking the initiative to ease your workload. ♦ L et clients know that you are thankful and that you appreciate them, let your suppliers know you are grateful for them. ♦G ive out compliments to your clients and find gratitude in your challenges. ♦A big one is trying not to complain too much, it really doesn’t go down well when you’re complaining to team members, customers or clients on a regular basis. Try and be aware of being negative about certain challenges.

Practising these elements of giving gratitude daily is very beneficial for having a positive culture within your business and is extremely powerful.

5/ ELEVATING THE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE

Creating an exceptional customer experience is one of the most important factors in growing your business. How important is it to make sure that clients love the environment and feel of when they enter your salon? Or to ensure they love coming to your website and finding all the information that they need easily? Do they get the support that they need straightaway or promptly? In a world that is living in a sense of urgency more than ever before, we have to master the art of exceptional customer experience. Many of us send a message with an expectation that we will get an answer immediately and if you don’t have good planning, protocols and resources in place for this, you will quickly feel the negative effects of not getting this element correct. Be exceptional at customer service Mastering the art of exceptional customer experience, is mastering the art of keeping our clients coming back and working with us time and time again. Having great refund policies is so important as well because in business things don’t always go to plan. Having policies like this is security for your client and customer, it builds that trusting environment which in turn makes them want to work with you or spend their hard-earned money with you and importantly, creates a sustainable and ongoing relationship. You want to create an amazing experience for your customers the very minute they walk in the door, ensure you greet them and take interest in how their day is going, is the environment in the salon social media friendly and does it entice a fun, relaxing or secure atmosphere where they want to share about it with their friends on social media? Ultimately when clients come to a salon they want a great experience that takes them to a place where all their worries go away. They can embellish in a special time and experience customised especially for them.

SOME OF THE KEY POINTS TO CREATE AN AMAZING CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE ARE: ♦K now your customer and their needs, everyone is different, so you must customise according to their needs. ♦C reate a connection with your client, build that trusting relationship with your clients and customers. ♦P rioritise responsiveness, the best companies have the fastest response times to help support their clients.

Feedback is key Capture and measure feedback, you might think you’re offering a good service but how can you be 100% sure? Collecting feedback is a great way to monitor if your clients are truly happy, just because you think you’re providing a good service doesn’t mean they think you are. Continually improve the experience by taking that feedback and doing something with it. Getting the feedback is the easy part, actually implementing procedures and new changes to improve is usually a lot harder and more time consuming, but essential in taking your customer service experience to the next level. These above principles are things that I use every day in my company, they are crucial to our success and future growth on our journey. The hardest challenge as a business owner when implementing these principles is consistency, we are all human at the end of the day right? If you can get these elements right, you’ll be well on your way to reaching new heights in your business. n

Otto Mitter is a multi award winning educator, judge, lash & brow artist and cosmetic chemist and is the creator of global brand Elleebana. Follow the journey @elleebana on instagram.

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CASE

Head Pro skincare rb ands are turning their attention to the scalp. e R vitalie s the hair of your clients with these new sU.SK

Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and product curation: Hannah Gay

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Beaute Pacifique Hydrating Hair Mask Beaute Pacifique 03 9562 0513 Calecim Advanced Hair System Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 KeraFactor Scalp Stimulating Shampoo & Conditioner Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Megan Potter Velvet Volumising Leave-in Tonic Megan Potter 0421 649 644 Natural Look Purify Anti-Hair Loss Concentrated Treatment and Purify Anti-Hair Loss Shampoo Artav Australia 1800 805 276 Omum Anti-Hair Loss Fortifying Lotion Encore Beauty 1300 770 428 SkinGen Copper Peptide Serum Esthetica Academy 1300 624 703 Vida Glow Advanced Repair Hairology Capsules Vida Glow 02 8071 8159

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Cosmedix Elite X-Age Moisturizer PM Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Dermalogica Smart Response Serum Dermalogica 02 8437 9600 Germaine De Capuccini TimeExpert SRNS Pro 60+ ISPA Group 1300 432 100 Sisley Phyto-Blanc Pure Bright Anti-Pollution Cushion Foundation Sisley Paris 1300 780 800

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BABOR HSR Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Serum and Multi Vitamin Ampoule Concentrates BABOR Cosmetics Australia 1800 139 139 Guinot Age Summum Hamaya International 1300 811 024 Payot L'Authentique Regenerating Gold Care Payot 02 9874 1166

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Dermatonics Beauty Elixir Dermatonics 02 9188 8819 Forlle'd Hyalogy Platinum Essence Forlle’d ugur@forlled.com SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic SkinCeuticals 1300 060 116 ultraderm Eye Renew Treatment ultraderm 1300 660 297

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dermaenergy PEP Serum dermaenergy 1300 799 709 Sodashi Everybody Contouring Body Gel Sodashi 08 9336 6837 Sothys Perfect Shape Youth Serum Manola 1800 816 599 The Secret Cellular Repair Night Cream The Secret 0444 555 261

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Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and product curation: Hannah Gay

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Edible Beauty Microbiome Calming Milk Booster Face Serum Edible Beauty admin@ediblebeautyaustralia.com Ella Bache Sensibeautics Rescue Cream Hallas Trading 1300 845 259 La Mav Probiotic Toner La Mav 1300 052 628 Lust Minerals Probiotic Moisturiser Lust Minerals lustminerals.com.au Skin O2 Vitamin B Probiotic Serum Skin O2 07 5593 4488 SkinMTX Comedone Acti-Clear Lotion Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Ultraceuticals Ultra Calming Moisturiser Cream Ultraceuticals 1800 355 638 Vita Sol Purity Greens Powder Vita-Sol admin@vita-sol.com

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Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Clear Biome Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Amperna Pro+ Bio Soothing Day Mineral CC SPF15 Amperna 0412 978 030 Habitual Beauty Collagen Elixir in Sicilian Blood Orange Habitual Beauty 1300 576 253 Medik8 Balance Moisturiser Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Murad Prebiotic 4-in-1 MultiCleanser Murad Australia 1800 687 237 Synergie Skin Dermiotic Pre-Serum Elixir Synergie Skin 1300 689 619

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Eylure Luxe Velvet Noir Lashes in After Dark McPherson’s Consumer Products 1800 651 146 ultraderm Hydra Express Eye Patches ultraderm 1300 660 297

O Cosmedics O-Rejuv Facial Device INSKIN COSMEDICS 02 9712 8188

the new

RECRUITS A break-down of the most lust-worthy product launches, with Hannah Gay.

Hydromerse 24+ Stackable Skincare Line Hydromerse hydromerse.com

KVD Tattoo Pencil Liner in Azurite Blue The Iconic theiconic.com.au Jane Iredale Glow Time Pro BB Cream SPF 25 UVA/UVB PA++ Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008

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new products

Loving Tan Deluxe Tan Remover Loving Tan info@lovingtan.com

Augustinus Bader The Light Cream Augustinus Bader augustinusbader.com/au Synergie Skin Effica C Essential Vitamin C Serum Synergie Skin 1300 689 619

Liberty Belle Rx Date Night Deep Hydration Mask libertybelle.com

Aesthetics Rx Anti-Pollution Cleansing Oil Aesthetics Rx 08 7225 6489 Dermalogica Daily Milkfoliant Dermalogica 02 8437 9600

Elleebana Flex Rods Ex-Import 07 5576 6388

mesoestetic Skin Balance Sensitive Skin Solutions Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011

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skincare

LUXURY

DEFINED

With more than 25 years of experience in the trenches of the luxury market, Lee Wood shares her expertise on what makes a luxury product. Shania O'Brien uncovers the industry’s secrets with the founder and CEO of NeoGenesis Rx Skin Lab. LEE WOOD is a connoisseur of luxury. Wood is the founder and CEO of NeoGenesis Rx Skin Lab, and also has a primary focus on product research and development all the way through to the market. She first began as the New South Wales Clinical Educator for Advanced Skin Technology in 1997, which was the only medical skincare company at the time. Wood’s background also boasts an extensive specialisation in pure cosmeceutical and medical-grade skincare with several market-leading organisations for almost 25 years which is why she is the perfect subject for a deep-dive into what makes a luxury product. High end products have connotations of goods that come with a high price tag and the quality to match. The trendy lipstick that is out of stock everywhere, a designer blush that changes colour, an eyeliner with an intensely smooth applicator. Luxury goods are viewed as extraordinary, rare and opulent. But what actually makes a product luxury? Is it merely the price or is the packaging important? What about the product itself? Professional Beauty spoke to Wood, who will join the panel on skin formulations with PB at this year’s BEAUTY AND SPA INSIDERS event in September about the behind-the-scenes aspects of luxury beauty merchandise. Lee tell us what you think constitutes a luxury product? “Luxury branding is usually a function of exclusivity created by price positioning and niche marketing, because of this ‘luxury’ doesn’t always manage to equal premium product performance and efficiency.

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Clinical grade products in the medical arena hold very high expectations in terms of performance with our skin specialists. This, in turn, also becomes the expectation of the patient-end consumer. Luxury in this category is now results-driven with a higher emphasis also on elegance and purity.” Based on research, the qualities of a luxury product include ‘craftsmanship,’ ‘design,’ ‘materials,’ and ‘exclusivity.’ Does this align with what you think? “Absolutely, formulations should be completely free of: parabens, SLS | ALS (Sodium & Ammonium Lauryl Sulfates, PEGs (Polyethylene Glycols – petroleum derivatives) Mineral Oil, Artificial Colours and Fragrances and Cruelty. The choice of elite biomimetic (skin identical) active and base ingredients are a sign of high quality design delivered with penetration enhancers and phyto (plant-based) anti-inflammatories and anti-oxidants that work with the skin's natural anatomy for expedited results. The compliance rate of formulations with these attributes initiates repeat purchases and rapid word of mouth marketing as well.” Products are often marketed as luxury but do not hold up to high standards. Have you found this to be true in your experience in the industry? “Consumers are quite frankly sick to death of products that are underwhelming; they are even more doubting these days of over-hyped marketing claims, false and

hollow celebrity endorsements, and ‘miracle cures’ from some unproven little known exotic ingredients that are listed. When you are shown different supposed high end formulations by ingredient distributors, the level of non-desirable ingredients is surprising and a complete deterrent to a formulator with clients wanting the very best formulations that offer integrity along with tangible luxury.” Do you think it is easy for a new brand, without an established identity, to produce expensive, luxury goods? “This depends on the establishment of the manufacturer and minimum quantity orders — it is just as easy to add one gram of an expensive elite ingredient as it is to add one gram of a known nasty ingredient. If your manufacturer works with you to build your brand and chooses to have endless access to high quality ingredients, the initial outlay for a new brand is affordable — and longevity is achievable.” What would a product need to get your tick of approval as high-end? “The most important brand position to build with the consumer is trust, as this is where consistent reliability and delightful performance collide. For me personally, and as a company, you can’t go wrong by relying on science. Building a luxury brand is a journey with a superior brand promise that is not easily matched. Relying on scientific fact builds symbolic value, and allows for an emotional brand narrative to be created, one that links with the social standing that is desired.” n

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MAKEUP TRENDS 2022

Source: Getty | [counterclockwise from left] Matteau, Indigenous Fashion Projects, Rumer

We take you back to Afterpay Australian Fashion Week (AAFW) 2022 and reflect on the biggest makeup trends to make their way down the runway. By Hannah Gay. Next To Natural For a number of designers’ AAFW Resort ‘23 presentations, the brief for makeup artists was to ‘keep it real’. Fresh, clean skin was essential to keep the fashions at the forefront, where mastering a barelythere makeup look was the task at hand. Backstage for Rumer, Lara Srokowski, Makeup Director for Lancome wanted to enhance the models’ natural beauty, telling Hannah Gay that the aim was to “give them a healthy, sun-kissed glow.” The idea was to keep makeup “minimal, polished, and effortlessly chic; the no makeup makeup look”. Therefore, using skincare like the brand’s Genifique serum to prep was essential, topping off with minimal foundation where needed. Bronzer

Source: Getty | Rumer

was paramount and used to sculpt the cheekbones, rest under the chin and define the eyes; application techniques Lara said were important to ensure models weren’t to appear washed out. The trend continued across various shows, from Indigenous Fashion Projects to Matteau. Skincare also dominated at Karla Spetic where Synergie Skin’s Terri Vinson joined makeup artists in tailoring products to the models backstage. Glistening skin teamed with silky silhouettes, layered under arched brows and a soft rosy pout. At Gyre, makeup artist Emily Fausset took inspiration from the land, particularly the Western Australian red desert, in theming with O&M’s fresh-from-the-

ocean wet hair look. Balmy, glossy skin was paired with a soft, blurred orange lip to match back to the garments presented (see Gyre’s line featuring elements of the sea). Bobbi Brown’s Luxe Shine Intense Lipstick in rusty-red Supernova was taken from the lips to the cheeks “to create a blush that marries the look together nicely,” Emily told Hannah Gay backstage. “Don’t be afraid of blush! It can make your skin look really youthful. Realistically, we don’t have time to do our makeup for an hour, which is why I’ve used lipstick on the cheeks – it’s time-efficient.”

Source: Getty | L’IDEE Woman

Better Off Bright Bright block colours were everywhere at AAFW this year, especially for the eyes. Blues – whether in the form of a placid sky blue through to a deep cobalt – were seen at Aaizel, Sass & Bide, Daniel Avakian, and Bec & Bridge, to name a few. Brands like Adaptive Clothing Collective utilised a range of poppy shades to match their eclectic wears. Artists played with paintwork at Erik Yvon, and aquatic-inspired pigments at Romance Was Born.

Source: Getty | [top to bottom] Bec & Bridge, Aaizel, Sass & Bide and Daniel Avakian

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Source: Getty | [clockwise from left] Adaptive Clothing Collective, Erik Yvon and Romance Was Born

make up

Real Rebellious Flickers of rock chick slash sixties doe-eyed shadow were seen on the AAFW runway, adding a vintage flare to an otherwise modern week of beauty. Shimmery charcoal pencil liner was smudged into the eyes at Michael Lo Sordo, while a clean, heavy line was drawn across the lids at Next Gen. Sass & Bide crafted a messy ‘morning-after’ wing, where Bec & Bridge extended black up to the brow, finishing the lids with a glossy coat. At Torannce, individual lashes shaped models’ lower lids and were intentionally absent from the top a la Twiggy. For some, brows were left ungroomed, and bronzer appeared exaggerated, making for a decidedly lazy, old-school feel.

Source: Getty | [left to right] Oroton, We Are Kindred, Karla Spetic

Source: Getty | Lordanes Spyridon Source: Getty | Torannce

Source: Getty | [clockwise from left] Michael Lo Sordo, Next Gen, Bec & Bridge and Sass & Bide

Source: Getty | [clockwise from left] Jordan Dalah, Auteur and The Curve Edit

Point Of Difference Many makeup artists opted to steer away from the expected, diving into the world of face paints, body gems and OTT nail art to compliment designers’ work. At Nicol & Ford, uber-pigmented blush reigned supreme for all. Brows were bleached and replaced with stencils, some showcasing a skinny 90s style. Others paraded feminine feline flicks using black liquid liner. The cat-eye trend continued at Lordanes Spyridon, this time partnered with dramatic false lashes in various styles. It was a case of the more face bling, the better with face jewels being a notable addition; the same approach taken at Mariam Seddiq and First Nations Fashion + Design. Striking nail art was prepared by OPI. Glitter and silverware for the eyes featured at Auteur, wirey brows crafted using falsies were found at Jordan Dalah, and raised hollow cat-eyes sat pretty at The Curve Edit.

5 products spotted BTS at AAFW:

Synergie Skin DermaCalm Synergie Skin 1300 689 619 Bobbi Brown Luxe Shine Intense Lipstick in Supernova Bobbi Brown 1800 304 283 Weleda Skin Food Weleda Australia 1300 551 454 Lancome Teint Idole Ultra Wear SPF 15 L’oreal Luxe 1300 651 991 OPI Infinite Shine 2 in Nessie Plays Hide & Sea-K International Beauty Supplies 02 9486 3211

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E T A M I T L U THE Y T U A ! K E C BENT IS BA EV a Australi o p x E ty r st, Beau ter a three yea u g u A s af Thi Sydney e industry in n i k c a th is b uniting t celebration e r s u t es hia ry’s larg . Be inspired t n u o c ty the gs beau ed opportunity n i h t l l a of lel unparal inspiration s i h t h t wi nd ection a of like-minded stry n n o c r fo ity du ommun h the whole in c a h t i w it onals. W , discover and ds i s s e f o r p n ps f ingerti 00 leading bra , r u o y t s a 2 ce over ss 32 categorie n e i r e p x e g ro ducts ac tion with leadin ns, o r p d n a a o onstrati ass educ world cl perts, live dem oss one ex ion acr t i t beauty e p m sh co and a la l weekend. fu wonder rbour : rling Ha E a D U e r t n VEN Exhibition Ce ey

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The legacy of Beauty Expo Beauty Expo Australia has championed the local beauty scene for two decades. The events and community have helped shape the future of beauty trends, innovations and product offerings in Australia and beyond, bringing beauty professionals from all over Australia together for one massive weekend. Whether you are a salon owner, aesthetics or beauty practitioner, makeup artist, or student, this year’s event is a no-brainer for your business. What can you expect? A cocktail of marketplace, education and competitions, Beauty Expo Australia provides an unrivaled opportunity for networking, learning and sourcing. Meet and shop from Australia’s largest collection of professional beauty and skincare brands, equipment and products across 32 categories. Discover new products from leading brands including Medik8, Dermalogica, Murad, Crown Brush Australia, Candella and Advanced Cosmeceuticals to name a few. And if your customers are conscious consumers, be sure to visit Spotlight – Beauty Expo’s new specially curated collection of likeminded brands, which this year will shine a light on the Natural Beauty movement. Spotlight: Natural Beauty exhibitors including Cocoon luxury Australia, Fedua, Waterlily, Juliette home + body, Nixe, Natural Beauty Training and Indira Organics. They all have core values in natural, organic, vegan and cruelty free products. Proudly working with a range of event partners including Professional Beauty, Afterpay, Murad, The Australian Dermal & Laser Instutue, Latitude Pay, Aesthetic & Beauty Industry Council (ABIC), Spa + Clinic, Beauty Biz, Millionaire Salon Coach, Alma Lasers, Thryv, Lash V and Fulfilment Australia. What’s new for 2022? The Australian Beauty & Aesthetics Conference This year sees the first time the new education offering will take place; The Australian Beauty & Aesthetics Conference (ABAC). With a vision to enlighten, inspire and motivate Australia’s professional beauty industry, the ABAC is two days of feature keynote presentations, panel discussions, case studies and educational sessions tailored around the business of beauty, wellness and aesthetics. A platform to connect and meet with thought leaders and likeminded beauty professionals, conference allows you the flexibility to curate your own program over either one or two days, based on your personal interest and business needs. The simplified ticket options allow you to mix and match sessions across 3 simultaneous streams covering; The Business of Beauty, Dermal Health & Wellness and our exciting new addition; The Art of Aesthetics to build your own personalised education experience. “We wanted to give attendees the control over their own experience and not be locked into specific streams” says Nina, Event Director. “At the point of purchase you simply choose from our one or two day options, and this gives you access to over 30 individual conference sessions across the entire the weekend. Which sessions is completely up to you on the day, with the ability to move freely between the 3 conference rooms or expo floor to create your own itinerary”. Hear from 40+ industry experts and personalities including a keynote from Maria Thattil, Miss Universe Australia on the

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redefining beauty in a diverse and inclusive world. Industry heavy hitters include Dermalogica and ABIC’s Emma Hobson, renowned educator Gay Wardle, cosmetic nurse Fiona Kuysters and Matt Williams from Professional Beauty Solutions. You’ll also learn directly from industry peers and salon owners like Sarah Hudson, Skin by Sarah Hudson, Carly Knowles of Belle Pelle Body Clinic, Daniela Boerma from Sydney’s Bliss Day Spa, Macquarie Medispa’s Karla McDiarmid, and Cosmetic Physician Dr Mariusz Gajewski of Star Cosmetic Medicine plus many more. The Business Couch Need some one-on-one time with the industry experts? Book a free half hour consultation with a line-up of specialists in Salon Management, Sales and Marketing, Training & Development at the Business Couch. This new feature area allows you to get personalised advice and help on your specific needs. Available to all attendees, spaces will be limited so be sure to book your place in advance when the line-up is announced shortly. Sponsored by Millionaire Salon Coach, you can meet Teodora Robinson from State of Ante, Kara Lehmann from The Beauty Boss VA, Cherie Stokic from Elevate my clinic, and Andy Heyne from Millionaire Salon Coach. Afterpay Main Stage Watch exciting demonstrations, tutorials and performances, live and included in your Expo Pass, right in the heart of the show floor. This year the line-up includes makeup artists Rae Morris, Isabel DeVries, Merton Muaremi, Charlotte Ravet, Alex Fevola, Paula Hibbard, Fay Razaei, Junie Ye and many more to be announced. Lash V Competition Lash V proudly presents Lash Pro Championships 2022! With $10,000 cash, plus plenty more prizes, this is one lash competition you can't miss. LASH V is all about celebrating lash artists and highlighting their talents. And this year, they will be putting 10 finalists in the spotlight lashing it out at a live final at Beauty Expo. Then partying it up on the Lash V Mega Yacht After Party, it’s just one of the exciting opportunities taking place at the event this year.

Book your tickets With three simple ticket options and access to up to 30 sessions at the new Australian Beauty and Aesthetics Conference (ABAC), this is our best value event yet. TICKET TYPE

STANDARD

DOOR

Expo Pass Gives you access to the expo floor and free content on the Main Stage and Business Couch etc all weekend.

$40

$45

1 Day Conference Pass Book either Saturday or Sunday and have access to over 15 sessions across all 3 streams. Includes expo entry on both days.

$195

2 Day Conference Pass Unlimited freedom with access to over 30 sessions across all 3 streams. Includes expo entry on both days.

$325

Book online at beautyexpoaustralia.com.au

Interested in exhibiting? Beauty Expo Australia has firmly cemented itself as an essential part of the marketing mix for brands who want to reach and influence the beauty industry. The event offers an opportunity for beauty brands to showcase their latest ranges directly to a captive audience of 6,500+ key decision makers, motivated buyers and salon owners. It’s the perfect place to meet, network and do business with your target market, all in one place, across two fantastic days so why not? n With limited places remaining find more information at beautyexpoaustralia.com.au or call Rosie Mitchell on 02 9422 8937.

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TAKING AT S AND Beauty Expo is back bigger and better than ever before. Anita Quade chats to exhibitors about their new innovations and what we can expect to see at this industry event.

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LYCON COSMETICS interactive, with several zones for demonstrations and live wax testing. Sometimes, the best thing to do is let the product do all the talking.”

Tell us why you are showcasing at this year’s Beauty Expo 2022? “We can’t wait to exhibit at Beauty Expo this year, as we have missed tradeshows a lot! We haven’t been to an Expo since 2019 and we miss seeing everyone and miss the atmosphere of this live event. LYCON is passionate about education and training, so we love the opportunity to share our expansive knowledge on all things depilatory wax and skincare.” What are you expecting to get out of the Expo this year as an exhbitior? “LYCON was very excited and looked forward to launching the LYCON Skin collection at last year’s Beauty Expo, but as the event was cancelled due to COVID-19, our excitement has been prolonged another year. LYCON Skin is a bioceutical skincare collection formulated with state-of-the-art resultoriented ‘superhero’ ingredients,

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such as Yeast Beta-Glucan, patented EXO-P™ Marine Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, many Australian botanicals and more. This multi-faceted, multifunctional skincare collection is designed to care for the skin under extreme Australian conditions. It features a range of products in both a professional and retail size, making it suitable for therapists and clients alike.” Anything else you are looking to showcase at the event? “Since COVID began, we have been very busy developing many other products and we cannot wait to introduce them to everyone in person at the Expo. This includes the new PINKINI Intimate Exfoliant - a triple-action exfoliant featuring bamboo fibers and other skinloving plant-based goodies, just in time for the Vajacial boom. There is also the ingrown-Xit Wipes - our breakthrough formula packed into a

convenient wipe to exfoliate and decongest the skin. There will be a few other big surprises in store at LYCON’s stand this year, so everyone will need to stay tuned.” Can you share with us a major highlight of your stand this year? “This year we are exhibiting with a new stand. It is bigger and better than ever, featuring all the usual LYCON favorites, plus our exciting new launches. The stand will feature a LYCON Skin extension to showcase our latest product collection. We look forward to performing many product demonstrations so attendees can really get a feel for the products, how they peform and how they feel. Our stand is very

Why is this event so important to the industry? “It is undeniable that like many industries, the beauty world was rocked by COVID-19. The resilience and adaptability of small and large businesses alike during this time has been inspiring, despite some unavoidable negative impacts. Missing out on tradeshows was one such concern. Tradeshows are such a valuable resource for many reasons. A company can simultaneously serve their existing customer base and provide further education about their brand, whilst attracting new buyers and growing their customer base. In a market that is continuously growing, direct face-to-face communication to the customer is invaluable. It is powerful to be able to see and feel a physical product and ask questions, instead of looking at a product on a screen. It’s also a great time to receive direct feedback from your customer demographic. In addition, tradeshows are also valuable in connecting brands with suppliers for a myriad of production needs, such as packaging. It is wonderful tradeshows are back up and running and the beauty community can re-unite.” n

LYDIA JORDANE Founder, LYCON www.lycon.com.au

Are you searching for that amazing, Australian, results-driven skincare range for your business? Australian Made Clinic exclusive Flexible opening orders Results-driven formulations Formulated by Medical Scientists Packed with ultra-pure natural actives www.instagram.com

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DERMATONICS Tell us why you are speaking at this year's Beauty Expo 2022? “Knowledge should be shared and I truly love sharing knowledge and educating. I have become much more comfortable with being in front of an audience, especially when I am chatting about a subject I love or that I am passionate about. So, I find it easy to be speaking to an engaged audience about a topic I enjoy. I know that the beautiful people in our industry really truly enjoy education and learning and want to learn as much as possible, equipping themselves with knowledge to help their clients and educate their clients. I enjoy being a part of this education in our industry and also look forward to learning a lot from the speakers myself. I am proud to be part of an amazing line up of speakers at the Beauty Expo this year and I believe it is really important for us, as the businesses that support the industry, to be out there and providing as much education and knowledge as we can.” What are going to be the major highlights of your seminar? “My seminar this year for Beauty Expo and the Australian Beauty & Aesthetics Conference is all about natural extracts to help calm and manage inflammatory skin conditions. Inflammation is a huge passion of mine, as I have been working in the area of inflammation since 2001. Inflammation is so complex and central to so many processes, both detrimental and beneficial. We are going to briefly cover inflammation, the processes involved when inflammation is initiated and key inflammatory mediators (ie. molecules) will

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“It’s a wonderful event that I see people

get excited about online. With the last 2 years needing to be postponed, so many in the industry are really looking forward to this event.”

be discussed and how they can affect the skin. We are going to discuss certain known inflammatory skin conditions you may see in the clinic and how they may present. We are then going to discuss modalities in the clinic that have the potential to induce uncontrolled inflammation and when we may want to avoid these. Natural extracts also provide numerous beneficial anti-inflammatory effects, in addition to those achieved with synthetic ingredients. This seminar will also highlight natural extracts, including (and especially) Australian natives, with anti-inflammatory molecules of benefit to the skin. Overall, we are going to have a really good discussion about inflammation, what can trigger it, how we can best avoid it, and how we can help our clients settle their inflammation.” What do you love about giving seminars in the industry? “I think it’s important to give back to the community that supports you, and therefore, I really enjoy giving seminars to the industry at every opportunity that I can. Part of what I love about giving seminars in the industry is that these seminars bring people together in the industry, which is one thing we really need right now. One of aspects I enjoy about giving seminars is

watching an engaged audience. When I am giving a seminar and I see really engaged faces as I speak, it is really rewarding and comforting as I know I am connecting with my audience. Even better is when I see the smiles and nodding heads as I speak. It makes me even more comfortable up there speaking and knowing I am on the right track with my audience.” You must have to arm yourself with lots of knowledge in readiness for the questions? “I enjoy when people ask questions. I know they have enjoyed the presentation, are engaged and want to know more. Don’t be afraid to ask your speaker questions. Often, other people may have the same question as you, however are a bit shy to ask the question. We learn so much from asking questions and we also learn from the questions that are being asked of us.” Why is this event so important to the industry? “It is really important to bring the industry together, and Beauty Expo 2022 is a great event to do this. There are

many business owners in the beauty industry that work on their own every day. I think it’s really important for them to come together, network, share ideas and stories with fellow therapists in the industry. It’s a wonderful event that I see people get excited about online. With the last 2 years needing to be postponed, so many in the industry are really looking forward to this event.” What’s the drawcard of the event? “It allows everyone in the industry to experience new and emerging technologies hands on, all in one spot and chat with several companies offering modalities for their businesses at the same time. When else would you be able to chat to multiple suppliers, all at one time? The Beauty Expo also offers those attending, a lot of really great education and business seminars. It is so important to ensure you are on top of the latest technologies, ingredients, techniques and more as your clients are becoming so much more savvy and demanding for high-end tech and results. By keeping at the forefront of industry knowledge, this will help you in the success of your business. This event is important for the industry as it is just the right mix of fun, education and suppliers. It will be an event not to miss this year.” n

DR DONNA LEE MARCAL Owner Dermatonics www.dermatonics.com

Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

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ULTRADERM

Tell us why you are showcasing at this year’s Beauty Expo 2022? “We are excited to be able to get back to exhibiting at trade shows again after two years of not being able to due to Covid. This is a great way to reunite and reconnect with our existing Ultraderm salon partners. We are also provided with a unique opportunity to showcase Ultraderm products and results achieved with new potential partners. Tradeshows are also a fabulous way of gaining exposure to new markets, connecting with the aesthetic community and keeping abreast of and contributing to industry trends.” What are you expecting to get out of the event? “We are expecting to increase brand awareness of all the brands we represent so as to take our business to greater heights. We also plan on presenting our array of salon resources that we provide to support our salon partners by way of comprehensive education and training, new in-salon techniques and products. We will also be

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sharing Ultraderm’s new look branding to our current and new partners.” Can you share with us a major highlight of your incredible stand? “We have several highlights available on our stand this year to share with expo attendees. Live demonstrations using the Rezenerate NanoFacial modality which is a ground breaking technique combining cutting-edge Nanotechnology creating the perfect marriage of science and beauty developed by and for aestheticians and other skin care professionals. The handheld wand has the perfect ability to promote product infusion and deliver active ingredients down to the dermal layer.” Can you tell us also about your new mineral makeup range? “We are excited to be able to finish off any aesthetic treatments with an application of Advanced Mineral treatment colour. This new, innovative Australia Mineral Makeup range is 100 % pure mineral pigment which provides the skin with anti-inflammatory

“The event is extremely important to the industry as it’s a one stop shop for all industry related matters. Attendees can find a new skincare care supplier, experience new treatments, engage in continuing education and connect with ones’ industry peers.” and soothing elements that are beneficial after the use of modalities such as Rezenerate, skin peels and microdermabrasion just to name a few. Advanced Mineral Makeup is manufactured with the purest pharmaceutical quality natural ingredients, free from parabens, talc, fragrance and dyes.” Why is this event so important to the industry? “The event is extremely important to the industry as it’s a one stop shop for all industry

related matters. Attendees can find a new skincare care supplier, experience new treatments, engage in continuing education and connect with ones industry peers. We feel that this is a particularly important event to attend this year to reignite, reinvigorate and motivate all trade associates post-pandemic. We are so looking forward to engaging and connecting with all attendees this year as so many life-long friendships have been started and nurtured from events such as these.” n

PAULINE VALLE Ultraderm Creator, www.ultraderm.com.au Ultraderm stand number is J139

Clearly more beautiful skin! VEGAN | LUXURY SKINCARE | AUSTRALIAN MADE

We only have one skin, so treat it to the best! LYCON Skin is a multi-functional bioceutical skincare collection featuring the new Adaptive Skin Science technology to create younger looking skin. Carefully crafted with premium ingredients ideal for the harsh Australian climatic conditions. Results begin overnight in building younger, firmer, fresher, more radiant looking skin. It simultaneously fortifies the skin against premature ageing, whilst reversing the already present signs of ageing. Get targeted results for individual client needs. No minimum order quantity means it is easy to treat your clients to the best!

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REFECTOCIL “With live demonstrations throughout the entire Expo, we will be presenting our new products. You’ll meet our lovely team as well as experience our new Brow Lamination Kit with Keratin infused Power Perm in action.” Tell us why you are showcasing at this year’s Beauty Expo 2022? “It’s been an incredible three years since the last Beauty Expo. Despite enormous global challenges, the RefectoCil team has launched some exciting, innovative products and treatments. Beauty Expo is the perfect platform to introduce and demonstrate these new products as well as give us the opportunity to showcase our best selling lash and brow tints including RefectoCil Natural Brown #3 which continues to shine as the biggest selling tint shade worldwide and is often described as ‘the perfect brown’. We’re known for our beautifully packaged, cohesive products that deliver consistent, long lasting and quality results. Our eight colour shades are complimented perfectly by our impressive ancillary range, including our newly launched Brow Lamination Kit, Precision Brow Tweezer and the innovative Browista Toolkits and hands-free palettes that have been incredibly well received by salon professionals throughout Australia and New Zealand. You’ll also see a sneak peak of the new Intense Brow(n)s hybrid tint range that will launch later in the year!

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Just as importantly, the Expo gives us the opportunity to reconnect to our customers and distributors – many of whom we have never met in person.” What are you expecting to get out of the Expo this year? “The industry as a whole has undergone dramatic changes since we were all last together at the 2019 Beauty Expo. This year’s Expo will be a great way to find out about newcomers in beauty and emerging trends. We are excited to not only be showcasing our new products but to also check out what everyone else in our industry has to offer.” Can you share with us your major highlight of your stand? “With live demonstrations throughout the entire Expo, we will be presenting our new products. You’ll meet our lovely team as well as experience our new Brow Lamination Kit with Keratin infused Power Perm in action. When we learned that RefectoCil HQ was perfecting a faster, more effective perm solution we couldn’t wait to start live demonstrations. This patented, keratin-infused perm delivers exceptional results for both Brow Lamination and Lash Lifts while simultaneously

caring for the condition of the lashes and brows. We love an all inclusive lash or brow service so, whilst we focus on our new products and services we will be completing each look with a customised RefectoCil tint. Not only will we be performing complimentary treatments where a few lucky volunteers will have their brows styled by the amazing RefectoCil trainers, we’ll also be sharing industry tricks and tips to achieve a WOW effect. We will also be displaying our new retail range which includes styling and colour products.” Why is this event so important to the industry? “We’ve all missed the buzz, high octane energy and sparkle of trade shows! The interaction and communication with

our customers inspires and motivates all of us. We’re pumped about seeing the smiling faces of our peers and simply connecting with our users face to face. So many people have felt very disconnected from fellow industry professionals the past few years and for very good reason! It’s a chance to come together to share experiences and aspirations. Beauty Expo is the perfect platform to experience live demonstrations, see results in person and ask the Educators questions to better understand our products and services - it’s essentially free training… what’s not to love! It’s the ideal opportunity to reflect on the fact that we’re part of a really special community that is uplifting and inspiring in so many ways.” n

HAYLEY SULTANA National Educator RefectoCil Australia www.refectocil-australia.com.au

Be a part of Australia’s fastest growing salon brand ✓ Australian cosmeceutical range ✓ Results driven skincare ✓ Select 7 Skin Peel System ✓ Great price point and markup ✓ Easy to use and recommend for retail

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skincare

H T E SCIC N E E OF

LUXURY

Rabije Cekovic is a Senior

Chemist for L’Oréal USA who formulates primarily for SkinCeuticals. Rabije chats with Shania O’Brien about luxury products, formulating serums, and the future of SkinCeuticals. RABIJE CEKOVIC is a Senior Chemist for L’Oréal USA’s Research and Innovation segment working under the Actives Cosmetic Division. Cekovic has been a formulation chemist for almost three years and presently formulates primarily for SkinCeuticals and is working on upcoming launches for the brand. Prior to joining L’Oréal, Cekovic attended graduate school to attain her Master’s Degree in Materials Science and Engineering. Cekovic also possesses a Bachelor’s in Chemistry. Cekovic shared behind-the-scenes aspects of formulating SkinCeuticals products, all the way from the early stages to what’s in store for the future. Can you tell us how you went about formulating the popular SkinCeuticals Vitamin C serums? “Vitamin C is a difficult ingredient to formulate with, so the process is quite lengthy. It’s about determining the optimal concentration of Vitamin C, the optimal delivery system, and confirming the physical and chemical stability over the course of its shelf-life. Once a final composition is achieved, the formula undergoes an extensive clinical testing plan.” What goals did you have in mind before beginning? “Before beginning, the goal is innovation and optimal efficacy. At SkinCeuticals, when we innovate, we often look to three key areas for inspiration: the future of health as we try to anticipate the needs of our patients; the needs of our physicians and their procedures; and new ingredients. SkinCeuticals is always seeking out highly efficacious ingredients with interesting mechanisms of action.”

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How is formulating anti-aging products different from other targeted skincare? “The formulation of no two products is the same. Each product works to address a specific skincare challenge. From the proactive research involved in the selection of appropriate active ingredients and technologies to the clinical testing design, each product has a unique process.” Can you shed some light on the chemical engineering behind the top SkinCeuticals products, and why you think they’re cult favourites? “Expertise from varying fields is at work behind the scenes of each SkinCeuticals product: biology, chemistry, chemical engineering, package engineering, amongst many other fields. It involves the search for highly efficacious ingredients, formulation stability, microbiological protection, scaleup feasibility, safety clearance, clinical proof. Why are they cult favourites? I think that answer is simple. Because they work.” What is the SkinCeuticals message on sustainability and green beauty? “I’m very excited about SkinCeuticals’ sustainability initiative. At SkinCeuticals, we’re taking the same philosophy we follow to create our products and applying it to our sustainability goals: Prevent, Correct, Protect. We’re looking to prevent waste and improve the sustainability profile of all our products. We do this by maximising our formulas and processes and minimising packaging. To maximise our formulas, we’re using only what we need and we’re switching to biobased alternatives wherever possible. Every iteration we develop is checked for

impact on biodegradability, renewability, green chemistry, and water footprint. Our process engineers are also constantly tweaking the manufacturing process to make it more efficient.” What about the packing stage of the process - how does this work? “We’re stripping away anything we don’t need. This includes cellophane wrapping around our cartons, any extra paper, and any unnecessary pieces, like plastic spatulas for example. And to ‘correct,’ we’re looking at reducing our carbon footprint by optimising the supply chain and localising production where we can to minimise energy and emissions involved with the transport of goods. Finally, to ‘protect,’ we’re advancing our medical communities by transforming our physician’s clinics into more sustainable ones and developing leadership for historically underrepresented groups.” What is your favourite part of working on a project? “The early stages, just when formulation work begins, is the most exciting (and most challenging) part of a project. This is when we start to turn a concept into reality, and we push the boundaries of what is feasible. It’s the selection of innovative active ingredients and countless trials to determine solubility and stability that brings us closer to that final product.” Do you consider SkinCeuticals a luxury brand? “If you define a ‘luxury’ brand as one that creates products with higher concentrations of innovative active ingredients and scientific proof of efficacy, then yes. SkinCeuticals launches products that protect against oxidative stress, stimulation of collagen synthesis, and restoration of lipids among other things.” n

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Melissa is wearing Glow Time Pro BB Cream in GT7

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marketing

SETTING UP FOR SUCCESS; A GUIDE ON TARGETS. TARGETS ARE a powerful tool and a key component for any successful business. They can help your team concentrate their efforts towards a common goal, motivate and focus you to achieve personal or business-wide goals, and help you progress towards objectives that can grow your salon or clinic and drive more revenue. Setting targets can be quite a daunting task to undertake if you haven’t done it before. We’ve got some tips on how to find the metrics that work for your business, how to make them attainable, and how to ensure you stay on top of them! Choose what you should target When identifying what targets to set, there are three key things you should keep in mind: ♦ What are your overall business goals? ♦ Are there any areas of your business you can improve? ♦ Are there any areas particular staff members need to focus on? It’s then a matter of determining which targets will drive your team towards achieving your business goals and which targets will focus your team’s energy on addressing areas that need improvement. Business targets vs. individual staff targets Targets for your business are great to help formalise your business goals, easily track progress or, if you employ a manager, as a way to motivate them. Staff targets can help identify areas of improvement for each team member and can help motivate, inspire, and empower your team to meet their goals. It's about deciding what's best for your salon, but keep in mind that the combination of each staff member’s performance is what will ultimately get you to your business targets, so we highly recommend using a combination of staff and business targets so you can easily track your progress towards your goals.

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Weekly vs. monthly targets The importance of putting a timeframe on targets cannot be underestimated. Setting weekly or monthly targets, and tracking progress towards them regularly will: ♦ Create focus and help your team to concentrate their efforts. ♦ Motivate your staff to work hard to reach their targets. ♦ Enables you to correctly determine if the target has been achieved. The choice of whether you use weekly or monthly targets is a matter of seeing what will suit your business best. Here are a few things to think about when making this decision. What would best motivate your team? Will your staff work harder if they have less time to achieve a target or are they good at playing the long game? How are they rewarded for achieving their targets? Do your staff receive a weekly incentive or are they paid a monthly commission? How frequently do you review targets? Would you prefer to look at them regularly, or would you prefer to go over their progress in a monthly meeting? How to calculate business targets Once you have decided what metrics you want to track for your business and staff, and how often you review them, the next step is choosing what exactly the target will be. You can forecast your targets by looking at your financials from the previous year, and then, based on your goals, determine how much you would like to aim for this year. Your salon software should be able to provide reports that can help you with this. This is a great approach for calculating targets like rebooking rates, where it is not a dollar amount.

If you are looking at revenue targets, the above method can be good to start with, but to ensure you are setting a financially sound target, you can look at your expenses (rent, wages, stock, etc.) to determine how much it costs to run your spa or clinic each year. Based on that figure, you can calculate a profit goal to provide you with a revenue target. If you are doing monthly targets, these annual figures can be broken down into each month, however, you need to consider fluctuations in the year, for example, the busy Christmas season or a quiet winter period. How to calculate staff targets The reason we recommend implementing both business and staff targets is that your staff targets should align with your business targets. For example, if your business target is $10,000 revenue per week, and you’re a salon with four staff members, each staff needs to make $2,500 a week on average. However, keep in mind that everyone is different. Creating individual targets based on the skills, experience and pricing of each staff ensures that their targets are attainable. They also drive staff to deliver the results you want, rather than demotivating them with a figure they feel is impossible to get. Now that you have the knowledge to set up targets for your business, all that's left is to get them implemented at your business and see the effects! n

Kamrin Hira is a Marketer at Kitomba Salon and Spa Software. To learn more about how Kitomba can help you, visit www.kitomba.com or call 1800 161 101.

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LEAN INTO LOVEFACE

Industry executive and artist Jill Chambers is saying goodbye to TMF.

True.Makeup.Freedom (TMF) was born out of a need for clean and vegan cosmetics with an artistic edge. There was nothing available in the market at the time fitting this description; products were natural and plain, or fashion-forward but filled with nasty chemicals. So, TMF was created in 2013 as a merge of the two and was stocked throughout Australia and globally within a year of launch. TMF came about as a true response to customer demand. Jill was asked hundreds of times over seven years by colleagues and brands how exactly she created TMF and whether she could she do something similar for them. And so, LoveFace Cosmetics was born - a full circle production company creating and manufacturing ONLY vegan and clean Australian-made cosmetics; a company for the people, creating products and brands for their personal businesses. Add your own creative flair, coupled with Jill’s decades of industry and brand building expertise, to build the brand you want. Jill is ready to focus her energy into LoveFace’s growth. TMF is available for sale so that a new person or company can continue it’s legacy of clean, vegan, kind, and bold beauty. For more information on LoveFace Cosmetics or TMF, please email: hello@wearetmf.com. www.wearetmf.com www.lovefacecosmetics.com

A N E XC E P T I O N A L TO O L TO A DVA N C E YO U R B U S I N E S S

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BEAUTY BLACKBOOK For more than 20 years Ingrid Seaburn has been on the speed dial of global celebrities and Sydney’s A-listers to help maintain their glow – she lives and breathes beauty. She chats to Anita Quade about the science of skincare.

You have such a loyal following as the go–to specialist from celebrities around the globe – how did you establish such a following? “I have always had a real passion for skincare and my training in California came at a time when I wanted a change in career having moved from Australia where I had been in the music business for many years. I wanted to bring a sense of connection, nurturing and results to the experience of having a facial with me and I worked very hard to establish and gain trust and always bring my A-game. There was some luck involved in an opportunity to work on some celebrities and for those celebs trust and respect and maintaining privacy was key. Literally by word of mouth my client list grew!” How do you establish a great relationship with your clients? “The ability to connect with a client happens in the first five minutes and that is all in the touch and the conversation to establish skin goals. The client’s experience is so important to me whether you are a celebrity or a regular client. It is essential in the way I operate that every client feels nurtured and literally together we are starting the journey to better, healthier skin. To this day, I transfer that energy to every treatment.”

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Tell us about your time in LA as a facialist? “LA is an exciting place and I had such a wonderful time there. I never looked at what others were doing in terms of business, I really just did my thing. I was younger and starting out but very lucky to have clients like Teri Hatcher and Rachel Griffiths as well as being part of that glamorous world was never boring. The most exciting times were around awards season when you are part of that prep for a red carpet moment. My focus was always on learning , working hard and being grateful for opportunity. I never took that for granted. LA can be a really tough place but it can also be really fun and if you love the craziness of Hollywood you pinch yourself in those moments which I often did!” You have been in the beauty business for more than 20 years. How have you seen it evolve over time? “I have definitely seen it evolve, as it should! The science of skincare has really become more sophisticated for the client and consumer and I am as obsessed today with anti-aging as ever. The most significant change has been the introduction of dermal actives into more products, the fusion of wellness and skincare as a more

holistic approach and the introduction of more sophisticated modalities like radio frequency and ultrasound incorporated into treatments to enhance results. There is a huge difference between a spa treatment and a clinical treatment and like any science, skincare will continue to evolve.” Any big changes that you have noticed in treatments? “Yes! The biggest changes would be our understanding of trauma based treatments and the long term effects of not balancing those with protecting the epidermal lipid barrier. A trauma based treatment is a treatment that triggers a wound healing response in skin in order to stimulate collagen. Things like hard core AHA peels and intense ablative laser to wound the skin need to be minimised in order to protect the barrier.” Do you think Australia is on par with other salons when it comes to luxury facials and advanced techniques? “Yes I think Australia has become just as sophisticated in its approach to skincare as any country in the world. The necessity has been in protecting our skin from the harsh UV we have here and the incredible damage it does to skin. We have been forced to address that.”

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Tell us about your beautiful bondi based studio how did you choose the location and set up the vibe? “Thank you so much for saying that! I call it a Studio rather than a salon as the space is purposely intimate to create an opportunity for me to work one on one with each client to create their skin journey. Because I live and work in Bondi I wanted something that was a part of the beach community with a warm , ocean vibe with a hint of LA. I offer clinical treatments but I wanted the experience to be nurturing at the same time. I wanted it to be a place where clients felt they were making an investment into a good skin programme and seeing results.” Was it always a dream to have your own business? “Yes, I absolutely love my Studio.” What do you love most about the serene space near the ocean? “I hope that the vibe and the decor feels really welcoming for all my clients and that there is a mix of beach and glam but that it’s not pretentious!” You have many beautiful treatments – what is the most popular in your salon? “I would say maybe my Signature facial because it’s a blend of customised actives and lots of facial massage to oxygenate skin to create a beautiful glow.” What inspired you to get into the skincare business? “When I moved to LA I was newly married and looking for a change in career. I had always loved anything to do with skincare but it wasn’t until I turned 30 that I wanted to create a business and do it my own way. LA was the mecca of inspiration to me at that time to learn as much as I could and I loved it.” Are there any important business lessons you have learnt along the way? “Yes! That the person who cares most about your business is you. Create something that is genuine and be prepared to work very very hard. Appreciate your clients loyalty and trust and thank them for choosing you. Also know your strengths and where you need to be. For me it’s doing the treatments. I am not great at paperwork!”

“The ability to connect with a client happens in the first five minutes and that is all in the touch and the conversation to establish skin goals. The client’s experience is so important to me whether you are a celebrity or a regular client.” You have been noted as one of the top 10 treatment destinations in Australia – how important is this to you and how hard is it to keep ahead of the game? “I don’t think too far ahead to be honest, I try to focus on a daily mindset of giving 100% and having a long term plan and relationships with clients to make sure we work together to achieve their skin goals! It is such an honour to be noted as a great destination for skin, that makes me super motivated and happy to keep doing things my own way and to remember to believe in myself!” Is there a celebrity that you think embodies your idea of glowing skin? “I just adore Jennifer Aniston. She embodies a natural beauty that comes from within. Glowing skin not only is topical but it is such a holistic process and I think she understands the combination of lifestyle, healthy eating, happiness and science based active skincare and treatments to look that good in her 50’s. I am in my 50s so she is an absolute icon to me!” What is your general approach to skincare? “I treat my skincare on par with the importance of overall health and wellbeing. I try to educate clients on the fact that good skin is an accumulative process, not an overnight fix. You do not just wake up one day with good skin, especially at my age, you have had to put in the time and effort to slow ageing and maintain more youthful functioning skin.” You look absolutely glowing – can you share with us your top beauty secrets? “My top beauty secrets are not that secret! The basis of good skin is consistent use of effective active products with retinol, Vitamin C, peptides, growth factors and

hyaluronic acid regular skin boosting treatments like skin needling, micro current and the use of modalities like radio frequency and ultrasound to firm and tighten skin and of course tweaking with anti-wrinkle injections where needed.” Any favourite products that you can’t live without? “All of my Osmosis Skincare Serums (especially the Vitamin A ) and my own formula HYDRATE which is a Hyaluronic Acid based gel to hydrate and plump my skin daily.” Is there a favourite destination that you have in your black book to rejuvenate? “I really don’t travel a lot. My rejuvenation destination has always been Byron Bay. Something happens when I land there, I can let go of all my stress and responsibilities in that moment!” What is your motto in life? “If there was a way to go back in time I would be so much kinder to myself. I was very unforgiving of what I thought were failures or times I was just not good enough. I really struggled with that and it held me back a lot in confidence. I would say back yourself, be as kind to your inner child as you are to others and let go of the idea of perfection, that is not the definition of happiness!” What’s next on your agenda? “I am toying with the idea of a book on that subject. I am also looking at how to collaborate with more brands that target the more mature woman, something that I identify with and have the expertise to do.” If we didn’t find you in the skincare business where would we find you? “Fronting a rock and roll band (in my dreams!)” n

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The Aesthetic & Beauty Industry Council is committed to providing authentic, ethical, and accessible support for the betterment of the professional spa, beauty and aesthetics industry. We represent you, as your trusted voice and influential representative body. As an ABIC member, you'll receive exclusive access to a range of benefits including: An extensive library of expert-created business resources Education sessions with sought-after industry specialists Daily access to advice from ABIC facilitators The latest relevant industry news and updates Government representation to ensure your voice is heard Your membership not only benefits you as an individual or business, but drives the success and the health of our collective industry. Together, across Australia, with your support we can make a difference.

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luxury leaders

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Six brand formulators and company owners chat to Anita Quade about their skincare innovations and reveal what keeps them at the forefront of beauty and science.

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luxury leaders

RITA SMITH PAYOT general manager 02 9874 1166 for Australian distribution enquires for Payot At PAYOT we are constantly evolving and expanding especially when it comes to… “Our presence in salons and Spas by constantly offering product innovations with proven results combined with a holistic beauty experience. We create face and body protocols, products for professional and retail use. We also leverage our facialist positioning with dedicated tools and accessories. The combination of these characteristics allows us to distinguish our identity and establish solid partnerships with our professional community.”

DR. ROSSANA CASTELLANA MD, WiQo www.wiqo.com.au The reason WiQo was formed originally was… “I had a vision as a dermatologist and a person who has always been sensitive to beauty and style. Behind the WiQo brand there is a long

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We are committed to… “Supporting them in the implementation of tailor-made actions: personalised marketing calendar, merchandising support… to create an identity project. PAYOT at the service of Spa, Salons and Professionals. Training is the pillar of success, we focus on the Beauty Therapist’s expertise: they are trained by our team in formal days and in-salon along with an unlimited access to information through PAYOT e-learning platform. Motion is not only present in our DNA but also in our will to always stay ahead of trends and always enrich our professional ecosystem.” An incredible standout feature of the brand is that… “Our Founder, Dr. Nadia Payot, the 1st facialist of all time invented the 1st routine of “face gym” that has now become the GYM BEAUTE PAYOT®. For PAYOT, beauty is in motion and we believe our products efficacy is boosted by combining gesture with care. We provide to our customers a complete, sensorial, and

research and development process that has led to an international chemical patent. When I started my practice as an aesthetic doctor in the 80s, I immediately understood that I wanted to invent new products to be able to provide my patients with rejuvenated skin. From this, the WiQo ONE professional product was born – an innovative and reliable technology resulting from a patent capable of providing a rapid, needle-free natural

personalised experience. Either at home when they use our products, have fun with our beauty tools or perform their daily GYM BEAUTE PAYOT® or in Institutes and Spas. Our offer of face and body treatments is stunning, it allows to create infinite combinations thanks to a unique three-steps structure: the GYM BEAUTE PAYOT®, the Heart of Care and the Special Moments. We believe nothing is more high-end than fully personalised treatments for face & body, to offer exactly the needs and moods of a customer. We are proud to offer this holistic, high performance approach to our partners in salons and spas.” We are always innovating and this year and beyond our laboratory, at the heart of the French headquarters is… “Continuously working on new scientific innovations at the cutting edge of performance and technology. We were one

lifting effect with visible skin illumination.” We ensure the product is luxurious and high-end because… “It includes both the WiQo ONE professional product and home cosmeceuticals products. WiQo ONE is the latest patent of a company known among the leaders of aesthetic medicine in over 50 countries around the world. WiQo ONE is an absolute novelty for the doctor and amazes patients

of the first brands to use the promising research areas of inflammaging in SUPREME JEUNESSE and the microbiota with our range CRÈME N°2. Recently we launched our first alternative organic range, HERBIER, Cosmos Organic certified. It represents our desire to be cleaner in our formulations, with products containing at least 80% natural ingredients, sustainable sourcing respecting endemic ecosystems and new solid format galenics using less water. In 2022 we have launched eco-refills in our new NUE make-up remover range, with packaging made from recyclable and recycled materials. At PAYOT, innovation comes from our customers. Their lifestyles are an infinite source of inspiration that we combine with our commitments towards sustainability, with no compromise on scientific break-through and efficacy.”

with its surprising results. Obviously, such a product can only be accompanied by home care products with superior quality both for raw materials and for clinical trials that ensure efficacy and tolerability suitable to support and complete the doctor’s work.” In 2022 we would like to… “Strengthen the product culture around WiQo ONE; our goal is to reach as many people as possible with the news that from today it is possible to restore and rejuvenate the skin of all ages and ethnic groups without the use of needles, without downtime.”

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luxury leaders

CARLES FONT Co-CEO of mesoestetic pharma group S.L www.advancedcosmeceuticals. com.au We developed the luxury mesoestetic brand because… “The company was founded in 1985 by my father Mr. Joan Carles Font. It all began in a small pharmacy in Barcelona’s city centre. In 1985, the aesthetic cosmeceutical field was not too developed in Spain and the doctors who started to practice this speciality didn’t have products available. The only option they had was to

MEDIHA ZEESHAN SkinGen.com.au SkinGen is an Australianowned cosmeceutical skincare range, launched in 2019 in collaboration with prof. Dr Slavica Marinkovic. “Skingen is result-driven skincare with a high concentration of active ingredients. The range is complete with professional and retail products targeting all skin concerns including cystic acne. We believe skincare should not be limited

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ask the pharmacies to produce specific formulations for them to use in their clinics. My father saw that it was a growing market and that more and more doctors were asking for specific formulations for aesthetic cosmeceutical products and he decided to create a specific brand that would produce products to meet this need.” The main difference between mesoestetic and other brands on the market is… “That we are a pharmaceutical company, so we apply the same pharmaceutical quality standards in all our production procedures. It ensures that the concentration of active ingredients, effectiveness and reliability of

our products are much higher than any other cosmeceutical company. Another aspect that sets us apart is that mesoestetic® is a manufacturer - we produce all our products in our lab without having the need to outsource so we are able to exercise quality control during the production process. Another standout feature is that because we are mainly focused on the aesthetic medical field (dermatologist, aesthetic doctors or plastic surgeons), which is a group of specialists with a high level of knowledge, we feel obliged to produce products and offer

by gender and recently we developed a men’s range. “Men love spending time in the gym and using various types of health products to build a healthy and attractive body. One thing that usually gets sidelined is skin health. Just like good sleep, healthy nutrition, and consistent exercise, skincare is also part of their well-being, it’s about looking healthy and feeling great. Although the men’s personal grooming market has increased, there is still a gap in luxury men’s skincare that works and feels good at the same time. Here at SkinGen, we believe men are special too.”

The standout features of the brand are... • High concentration of ingredients • Liposome technology for deeper product delivery • Proven Results • Compatible with technology “Men have more active sebaceous glands and as a result produce more oil leading to larger pores that can easily be blocked thus causing acne. Another common issue seen in men, is sensitivity, irritation, and infection caused by shaving, which disrupts the skin’s barrier. To restore the barrier, it’s important to use moisturisers that help reduce TEWL. SkinGen understands men’s

innovative solutions to meet this high standard. This ensures that this quality and this knowledge is also applied to all our retail and professional treatments.” Our innovations that are planned for 2022 and beyond include… “mesoestetic® always re-invest the 40% of its profits in R&D, so, we are constantly developing new products and updating our formulas to keep them as effective as possible. mesoestetic® will soon be launching the new anti-ageing retail line based on the science of epigenetics and are also reviewing our range of peels. We have many exciting products that will be arriving gradually in 2022 and beyond.”

skin and has developed moisturisers that are light in texture and will not feel heavy or thick. We understand that men don’t like to use too many products and therefore, we have developed Super Recover that has a dualaction it’s an ideal moisturiser that helps soothe after-shave irritation.” For 2022 and beyond here is what we have instore... “We are introducing new melasma and pigmentation serums that will target the tyrosinase activity, including a large variety of chemical peels. There is always room for improvement so, we are upgrading packaging and improving formulas. New products will launch throughout the year, stay tuned.”

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luxury leaders

VICTORIA CURTIS Owner Curtis Collection www.curtiscollection.com I have always had a passion for beauty… “I believe that a career for me in this industry was inevitable. I was drawn to fashion and beauty even during my University studies. I was then offered a position at L’Oreal in their Marketing Department. This gave me the opportunity to work

in the Professional Salon Division specialising in the industry Curtis Collection operates in today. I spent a great deal of my time in beauty salons and medi spas and began to identify a gap in the market. My vision was to combine the luxury and style of a department store makeup counter with high quality products, ingredients and formulas that would compliment a salon’s beauty services as well as their total skin care approach. The experience at L’Oreal allowed me to build the knowledge that was necessary for me to launch my own salon specific cosmetics range. Curtis Collection is now one of Australia’s leading salon brands with over 300 stockists nation wide. “

Launching over 30 products in the last five years, Image Skincare truly is one of the most innovative, high-end and evidence-based clinical skincare companies in the world.” *Kline & Company’s 2021 Professional Skin Care U.S. Report

MATT WILLIAMS CEO Professional Beauty Solutions www.probeautysolutions.com.au I formed a relationship with Image Skincare years ago… “We have been their proud partners and official Australian distributors of Image Skincare for over 10 years now! During that time we have watched the company grow their brand, product line and range of professional treatments in over 60 countries around the globe! We were so excited when we heard the news earlier this year that Image Skincare is now the No.1 Salon & Spa Skincare Brand in the US*.

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The stand out moment for me was… “Image Skincare is the perfect synergy of advanced, results-driven peels as well as indulgent and luxurious full body and facial wellness experiences to ensure its credibility of one of the most high-end cosmeceutical skincare brands available. With over 20 different facial protocols and 10 completely customisable peels, Image Skincare creates a truly bespoke, tailored experience for every client; allowing therapists to personalise every client’s skincare routine and treatment approach to match their exact needs and skin

I started the brand when… “I travelled through Italy and across America to find the highest quality vitamins and minerals in order to develop our luxury formulas. Today, an exclusive Multi Mineral Complex is infused into the Curtis Collection Minerals. Vitamins A, C and E, as well as, potassium, zinc, lysine and magnesium provide antioxidant rich protection and as well as essential nourishment and hydration for the skin. The Curtis Collection range is “MORE THAN MAKEUP - it’s makeup with benefits”. The comprehensive range of high-end products has been designed to offer simple and attainable beauty solutions for the modern day woman. Each product offers

goals. We love that the range can offer a variation of treatments from resultsdriven peels to luxurious face and body treatments. Image Skincare’s luxurious product formulas and ingredients, paired with its patented advanced skincare technologies and delivery systems is what ensures it’s one of the most high-end, advanced cosmeceutical skincare brands available in the market.” We have big plans for the brand in 2022 that include… “To continually innovate and develop to keep up with client demands and the latest trending ingredients.

a supreme skin care benefit and acts as an extension of a woman’s beauty routine. Our products exist at the intersection of beauty, science and luxury. The revolutionary formulas have the ability to transform your complexion. By choosing the right mineral foundation, women can literally change the way their skin looks and feels instantly.” I have planned these innovations for the future… “We plan to launch some very exciting formulas to compliment our cosmetics. This is a new venture for the brand and we plan to offer the same level of quality and luxury that is always found in our product range! Watch this space...”

Each year, we look forward to their worldwide launch party as we know their expert team, led by husband and wife duo Marc & Janna have spent the last year researching, formulating and creating new products to match the client and consumer market demand. Launching new products, formulas and skincare technologies every year - this year alone Image Skincare released 4 brand new skincare formulations that have already proven effective in targeting major skin concerns of clients across the globe. We are always looking forward to the exciting creations that Image come up with year after year.”

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MORE THAN MAKEUP DISCOVER WHY VICTORIA CURTIS COSMETICS IS AUSTRALIA’S FASTEST GROWING MAKEUP BRAND AUSTRALIAN OWNED SALON EXCLUSIVE BRAND SKINCARE MAKEUP ASSISTS WITH TREATMENT RECOVERY PHARMACEUTICAL GRADE MINERALS ONLINE STAFF TUTORIALS CRUELTY FREE HYPOALLERGENIC PARABEN FREE

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TO BECOME A VICTORIA CURTIS COSMETICS STOCKIST CALL 03 9421 5577 OR EMAIL INFO@CURTISCOLLECTION.COM.AU

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skinfluencer

ASK THE

SKINFLUENCER Beauty clients are looking for aspirational skincare – the holy grail in a bottle that will turn back time and erase a slew of beauty misadventures. When it comes to that splurge, many believe that the higher the price tag, the better the quality and effectiveness – but sometimes the hefty price tag doesn’t match what’s in the bottle. Anita Quade chats to leading skin specialist and founder of his signature brand Douglas Pereira, who will join Professional Beauty in September at the BEAUTY & SPA Insiders event to discuss skincare formulations.

With his 25 years experience in the beauty industry he reveals the benefits of investing in luxury skincare at home and in your salon and why it’s always important to read the ingredients on the bottle. MAKING A LUXURY FORMULATION The first thing to clarify is the definition of luxury skincare. For many years the phrase “luxury skincare” has been related to designer brands. These product brands although effective, have beautiful textures, aromas and have beautiful packaging “that look beautiful on your bathroom bench” but take a more cosmetic and superficial approach in the formulation they develop, and tend to contain a lot of synthetic ingredients, fillers and fragrances that our skin’s function don’t really relate to and can be toxic or harmful to our bodies.

consumer is not only wanting results from the formulations in their bottle but looking for products that reflect a luxury aesthetic. So, to capitalise on the aesthetics of the luxury cosmetic brands, many cosmeceutical labels have been moving away from the traditional medical /clinical packaging and designing luxury or more trendy packaging to house their formulations. Giving the consumer the benefits and results of an active cosmeceutical formulation, but still looking beautiful and luxurious.

GENIE IN A BOTTLE These products also come with a high price point but what’s in the bottle doesn’t always equate to the cost or types of ingredients used. Thus, making the return on investment or results not always worth the high price point.

products becoming more readily available to the consumer, some matching the high price points of the well know cosmetic brands. But the difference to cosmetic products is, most of the cosmeceutical products being formulated today contain high quality, potent percentages of active ingredients that the skin’s function can relate to. Within these formulations are also a superior delivery system to optimise the delivery of its actives and increasing the efficacy and results.

A COSMECEUTICAL GRADE SKINCARE BOOM Over the last decade we have seen an increase in cosmeceutical grade skincare

THE LUXURY LURE In addition to the result driven formulations many of the cosmeceutical manufacturers have also realised that the

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THE KEY TO INVESTMENT When it comes to the consumer investing in luxury skincare the most important thing is to invest into products that are formulated with proven applied sciences, quality ingredients of the correct percentages and that have an effective delivery system. This combination will support the transformations results equating into the investment made into luxury skincare. GETTING MAXIMUM RESULTS ON A LIMITED BUDGET We all want to achieve maximum results from the investment made into our skincare regimes, so, when I have a client that is working to a budget, I like to keep things real. And find a solution that best fits my client’s budget. Firstly, I like to

skinfluencer

discover their key concerns and what they would like to improve with their skin health. I will then always show them my recommended complete skincare regime and explain how each product will benefit their skin. Once they have a clear understanding about the complete regime, I will then discuss with them if the investment is within their budget, if the investment is over budget, we then together start a process of elimination and prioritise the most beneficial products recommended. SERUM SAVIOURS Generally, I always suggest focusing on the serums, I have always said “the work engine of any skincare regime is the active serums”. So, this is a great starting point in any skincare regime. I will then recommend a more costeffective alternative for the product we have eliminated, sometimes these products may not even be from my range. Most of the time this is the cleansers, moisturisers, and sun protection products. I always say to my clients “You can always build on your regime as your budget permits, having a few products of quality going on your skin is better than nothing at all, or a product that is not going to improve your skin health.

DOUGLAS PEREIRA’S TOP SKINCARE SERUM ESSENTIALS ON A BUDGET AM – 1. Vitamin B serum “Try to find one with Hyaluronic acid and lactic base exfoliants within the formulation “ 2. Vitamin C serum 20-25% PM – 1. Vitamin A serum “I prefer a VA serum that uses Retinaldehyde as the form of VA used in the formulations” 2. EGF and or peptide serum

HOW TO CREATE YOUR OWN RANGE 1. Set out a clear philosophy for your brand 2. Know what you want to achieve from your formulations and the complete brand you are developing 3. Think about your clinic / salon’s clientele and what types of products best suit your market 4. Do you want to have a small collection of products to fill the gaps in your current retail offerings or create a full range of products? 5. Research other brands and what they are doing, ingredients they are using and how they are marketing their range 6. Do your research when it comes to your formulator and the ingredients, methods and philosophy they use 7. Get a clear understanding that your formulator / manufacture can fulfill your orders in the volumes you require and in a timely way 8. Most importantly – It’s all up to you when it comes to branding, marketing, PR and education. You don’t have a product supplier or distributor to hand you supportive assets and this takes time and money.

“Some products also come with a high price point but what’s in the bottle doesn’t always equate to the cost or types of ingredients used. Thus, making the return on investment or results not always worth the high price point.” A RETURN ON INVESTMENT Like anything of quality and luxury it comes with a cost even at the manufacturing level. When you are producing a product backed by science, containing high end, high percentage actives and an effective delivery system within the formulation, and presenting products in luxury level packaging, it will be costly to produce. A lot of people say to me, “You are the manufacturer of your products, you must be making a huge profit”. Yes, the profits are great, but because we source the best of the best quality ingredients from all around the world this comes with a price tag, not to mention the current cost of freight at the present time. SELECTIVE INGREDIENTS When we are formulating our products, we also need to keep in mind the cost of a product for manufacturing and what the end price will be for the consumer. If money was not an option, we could use only the best and most expensive

ingredients in all our formulations. But this is not always realistic, so sometimes we need to look at alternative more cost-effective solutions that will give us the best results possible and making the product more affordable for the consumer. If we take a careful and calculated approach to our formulations without compromising quality and results, we will always see a profitable return. And amazing skin health results. THE VALUE OF SALONS CREATING A LUXURY RANGE From my evolving experiences over the last 12 years with my own range I would highly recommend clinics and salons embarking on the adventure of an inhouse range of skincare. It brings broader skincare solutions for their clients and creates a point of difference for their business. Not only that, but if done correctly it can increase profits. But this can only come with doing things right from the beginning and doing your research.” n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

skincare

THE FACES OF LUXURY henW it comes to leading the luxe movent Australi has some incredbl in ovat e lead rs, who have dev lop a loya clienta both loca y and interaol.y They contiue to drive the industry with their stunig space a n d c u t i n g e d g t re a m n s . a b o u t t h e i r j o u r n e y a n d w h a t i s i n s t o re f o r t h e f u t re .

Anait Quade

Your Amy Jean salons embody the word luxury – why did you set out to capture the high-end market?

AMY JEAN Owner Amy Jean Salons www.amyjean-collection.com Claim to skincare fame:

A self-confessed art lover Amy Jean has been taking her passion and creating brow couture looks since she started out in the industry in 2004. Known as the ‘archangel’ she has worked with celebrities including Naomi Campbell and has opened her luxurious salons across Australia. The experience is unforgettable and its luxury at its finest – complete with decadent Moet piccolos for guests on arrival, bespoke brow, lip and lash treatments amidst a designer setting think Louis Vuitton accents and cashmere throws. In 2019, she launched the Amy Jean Privee collection, the brow cosmetic essentials to help maintain brows at home. The kit contains brushes and tweezers encased in gold and made in Italy. It was promptly snapped up by Net-a-porter and then the world’s most famous department store Harrods. It seems her journey is only just beginning.

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“Thank you – I’m so happy that is your perception of the brand and salons. I didn’t necessarily set out with an intention to capture a high-end market, but I did want to ensure each salon visit was a best-in-class, premium experience for our clients. From the interiors that greet you upon arrival to the salon, to our treatment rooms, products and brow artists, it was imperative that every client was provided a moment of reprieve, relaxation and indulgence. And when you offer this calibre of service, with attention to results and customer care, you naturally become synonymous with luxury.” How do you choose your luxury high end locations?

“It always starts with research. I want to provide the best possible client experience so it’s important to first analyse the surrounding retailers and the typical customer, as well as proximity to luxury hotels, etc. I also like to situate myself in the space – I’ll perch myself on the street or in front of the new potential shop, observe the passing parade and try to immerse myself in the location. Environment and surroundings can completely make or break a retail experience, so putting in that groundwork early will set you up for success later on.”

c h a t s t o s k i n c a re e n t r p u s

How do you ensure your salons remain a luxury experience for clients?

“I set my standards skyhigh and then work hard to meet them. It also comes down to numerous factors – never just one – including salon presentation, hygiene, hiring highly qualified and passionate artists, offering innovative treatments and treating all clients with equal care and enthusiasm. Most importantly, my front of house concierge employees are warm, welcoming and authentic. I’m often emailed about how kind and nurturing my team are.” You had your AJ product line – tell us when you launched this and how you have expanded on this over the years?

“I originally launched my ‘Eye Couture’ product range in 2009 when I had a single salon. Fast forward six years and I was managing five Australian salons, as well as clients across Singapore and the UK. By this time the brand and grown and evolved, and we had established ourselves as a luxury brow offering – so the products needed to rebrand with us. I launched our Amy Jean Privée Collection in 2018 and the growth has only continued from there; we’re now stocked by some of the world’s most prestigious retailers (and e-tailers!), including HARRODS London, Net-A-Porter and David Jones. We also had a surprising wave

of international client interest for our products during the first pandemic lockdown – we reached consumers in countries we’d never expected to!” How important is it to have your own brand in the salon? Do you use any other brands also?

“It’s incredibly important for us to stock and use our own brand in the salons. The origin of the Amy Jean Privée Collection was to create salon-quality, effective and easy-to-use products that clients could use at home to work in tandem with their treatments. And there’s no better way to demonstrate both our trust in the product and their efficacy than by using them in the salon – it’s our way of offering a holistic brow service to our clientele. We also carry products from other brands that are relevant to our treatment offering.” What’s your favourite luxury treatment?

“I truly love a decadent facial - I frequent Melanie Grant in Australia (her clinical approach to skincare is unparalleled) or the Spa De La Mer at the Baccarat Hotel in NYC.” Any plans to expand your salon presence and product line in the future?

“Absolutely! I’m endlessly researching and developing new products And we have some exciting new partners in the cosmetics retail space this year that we can’t wait to reveal.”

skincare

DR JOSEPH HKEIK Owner All Saints Clinic www.allsaintskin.com.au

of a high-end hotel? Whether coming in for an indulgent facial, or a rejuvenation appointment with our doctors, our clients can relax and feel pampered in our luxurious and comfortable surroundings. My friend and interior designer Blainey North helped bring my vision to life in our Double Bay clinic and more recently our skincare boutique, Le Petit Saint.”

Claim to skincare fame: This

renowned aesthetic physician is known for his love of art and created the ultimate luxurious skincare space in 1999 in Double Bay. He has commented that his greatest achievement of his career was to launch the sanctuary that offered him the chance to combine his aesthetics career with an artistic approach and worked with famed interior designer Blainey North to create the concept that is the go-to for local and international celebrities. He reveals the highly selective skincare brands he stocks and the appeal of his luxury treatments. Tell us how you started out and set up All Saint Clinic?

“When I founded All Saint Clinic in 1999 I noticed a gap in the market, for a clinic run by doctors that truly specialise in skin health. With my medical degree and background, coupled with an interest in art, sculpture and aesthetics, I wanted to focus on helping people become the best possible version of themselves. Rejuvenation and preserving one’s youthful vitality, both in terms of skin and also selfvalue, are at the heart of what I set out to achieve.” What is it about the luxury market that appealed to you?

“What could be better than visiting or working in a clinic that has the luxurious ambience

Who is your clientele?

“Whether you are an international A-lister, a top Aussie TV presenter, or simply Joe Bloggs, our team prides itself on treating everybody equally. Whilst it is true that we have a large base of celebrity clients, we also have a very loyal following of local customers in the vicinity of our clinics, as well as clients who travel from all over Australia and even overseas, making All Saint Clinic a priority destination whilst they are in Sydney.” Tell us about the brands you stock and how you go about choosing these for the clinic and skincare store?

“I am very selective in the brands that we stock, ensuring that each one is backed by high-level, robust science. These range from international best sellers such as Augustinus Bader, Rationale and Skinceuticals, to more specialist brands that are actually only available through selected clinics – including Skin Better Science, iS Clinical and Universkin. We also stock a broad range of ingestible

products, including popular brands WelleCo, The Healthy Chef, The Beauty Chef, as well as exciting new brands on the market – such as CILK and FloraBiome.” It must be so competitive to have a skincare brand in a salon such as yours what is your criteria?

“Firstly, impeccable scientific credentials. Secondly, each product is tested by myself and my expert team, to ensure we fully believe in them and can ensure excellent results for our clients. Thirdly, ensuring that we cover all possible facets of skincare – both for face and body, as well as supporting with ingestible products.” With high price tags for luxury treatments and skincare – what is your advice to your clients on how they will see the return for their investment?

“In terms of luxury treatments, you certainly pay for what you get. Not only do our clients notice immediate and long-term results, but they also leave our clinic feeling revitalised and relaxed. We also have a philosophy that ‘less is more’, so for example with injectables often just a few subtle touches are needed by my expert team of doctors,

meaning clients are actually paying for less. We take our clients’ skin on a journey for the long-term, with regular check-ins and appointments to keep it looking its best. This offers a great return on their investment, by nurturing their skin for the future and keeping it looking as youthful as possible.” What is your one biggest luxury skincare splurge?

“On my day off, my favourite treatment is our signature Red Carpet Laser Facial – which gives the ultimate radiance with zero downtime, plus leaves you feeling relaxed and revitalised. In terms of skincare products, I can’t get enough of the Rationale range and it’s no great surprise why it is top of many beauty editors’ lists. It is a brand that is founded on incredible research and science and I’ve seen for myself how it can actually transform clients’ skin. I also highly recommend that clients pay that bit extra for a tailor-made serum, ensuring that the freshest and most potent active ingredients are perfectly combined to suit each of their skin’s needs. We offer two great choices by Universkin and Skinceuticals.” Plans for expansion...

“All I can say is stay-tuned.”

DR JOSEPH’S HERO TREATMENT New for 2022 and popular amongst the A-list crowd, this luxurious treatment ensures clients look relaxed and radiant with the famous #AllSaintGlow. The expert dermal therapists combine an oxygenating treatment, pure enzymes, vitamin fusion, peptide mask and LED light therapy to stimulate collagen. The treatment deeply rejuvenates, has zero down-time and leaves skin luminous, soft and smooth. Clients find that their skin benefits with greater product absorption and overall skin health. Beneficial for: ♦ Fine lines and wrinkles ♦ Pigmentation and sun damage ♦ Dry, rough or dull skin ♦ Congested pores

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

skincare

MELANIE GRANT Owner Melanie Grant Studio www.melaniegrant.com Claim to fame: She is on the

speed dial of A-listers including Victoria Beckham and Cate Blanchett and is among the world’s most sought after skincare experts. In 2016 CHANEL Australia announced Melanie as their first official skin expert followed by CHANEL USA in 2019. Given her love of skincare and attention to detail she has just launched an exclusive offering to clients - the Biologique Recherche Haute Couture Programme. She spends her time jetsetting between Australia where she has two studios, Los Angeles and Paris. Just last month she launched her book The Modern Guide To Skin Health – which won praise from Victoria Beckham who commented: “A must-read for anyone who wants to improve their skin health.” The book offers practical advice she has learnt throughout her two decades in beauty and educates readers on how to make the best choice for their skin. Tell us why you entered the luxury skincare market?

“I never intentionally positioned my studios in a luxury market, it really just happened naturally. I’ve always been super focused on the client experience - I appreciate just how busy modern life is and so my team and I are constantly looking for ways to offer an experience that is restorative,

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decadent and elevated while still being completely results driven. Detail is an incredibly important element of this, from lighting, music and ambience in Studio, right through to the finesse of a European massage performed in each treatment. At it’s core, the MG philosophy is shaped around the type of experience I would like to have as a client.” What about the products you work with?

“I’m ultra-selective with the ranges we house, and prefer a less-but-better approach to home care. It’s crucial that the formulas we carry are the very best available in terms of quality, efficacy and even sensorially because I want our clients to see noticeable results, and above all, to enjoy using them.” What is it you love most about the industry?

“There are so many rewarding parts of what I do, from working collaboratively with clients on their long term skin health, to seeing the evolution of their complexions. I love my clients and seeing them in Studio - it’s these very special relationships that give meaning to my work every day. I also love belonging to an industry that champions creativity and innovation. We’re so lucky to have access to amazing research and technology around the care of the skin - from ingredients and delivery methods to devices and modalities that can deliver true and tangible results across a myriad of concerns. It’s all at our fingertips!” You’ve been the official skin expert for Chanel Australia and Chanel USA since mid 2000s. What , does this involve?

“I’ve been working with CHANEL for a long time

now and it’s an absolute pleasure! We collaborate together on press days at my studios or treating guests before awards season, we’re celebrating product launches and introducing media and journalists to new products and ranges. Over the past few years there were some really fun virtual masterclasses, which gave us the opportunity to meet and connect with people all over the world - a definite silver lining to those seemingly unending months spent in lockdown. Recently, I spent a beautiful couple of days visiting Gaujacq in the south of France to experience their incredible farm that propagates - and conserves - over 2,000 varieties of the camellia flower, which forms the basis for CHANEL’s new sustainably minded, clean and conscious range, No.1 de CHANEL. It was so eye opening to see just how much thought and detail goes into every formula - from seed, to flower, to bottle.” You have also recently launched the Haute Couture program with Biologique Recherche – tell us about this?

“The Biologique Recherche Haute Couture Programme is something that’s been in the works for a long time and it’s been really hard not to let it slip! This is a really special offering, and one that’s exclusive between Melanie Grant Skin Health and Biologique Recherche. In short, the programme allows clients to have a completely customised series of Biologique Recherche formulas created for their unique complexion by a Biologique Recherche Doctor and their team of expert formulators over a one, three or six month period. The process itself is incredibly

detailed and collaborative from beginning to end.” What does the program for clients involve?

“The programme starts with an initial consultation with a Biologique Recherche Doctor and Haute Couture expert at one of our Studios. They’ll perform a detailed analysis of your current and historical concerns and a series of clinical assessments, the results of which are sent to their lab and formulation centre in Paris. At the lab, Biologique Recherche’s team of experts draw on their extensive library of unique, potent and proven ingredients to create high performance formulas that are specifically designed for you. These formulas will evolve over the course of the programme in terms of concentration and active ingredients selected to work with your complexion, concerns and end-goal. You’ll have a standing appointment with a Biologique Recherche Specialist at one of our Studios every month for the course of the programme to ensure that your formulas are continuing to be well tolerated, working optimally and that your skin is enjoying the myriad benefits they’ve been designed to offer. It’s the epitome of truly customised home care, and really results focused.” How costly is this to clients?

“Pricing for the programme is shaped around the time frame you decide on with the Biologique Recherche Dr and Haute Couture Expert at your initial consultation. After your meeting, you can select to follow it for a 1, 3 or 6 month period, which are each priced accordingly at $5000, $14,000 and $25,000.” Check out Melanie’s book: The Modern Guide To Skin Health.

skincare

really about that experience that we provide – the loving care and touch that is woven into everything. If there were Michelin stars or hats given out for the beauty industry, that’s what I’d be going for.”

JOCELYN PETRONI Owner Jocelyn Petroni www.jocelynpetroni.com.au Claim to beauty fame: She is

one of Australia’s top facialists and the official manicurist for CHANEL Australia. Her signature salon with the tagline ‘We Know Beautiful’ is set on the streets of the Eastern suburbs enclave Woollahra. It offers bespoke treatments which incorporate spiritual healing into holistic rituals and Jocelyn is known for developing the amazing Heart Chakra Facial and the most sophisticated designer manicure in town. Tell us why you set up Jocelyn Petroni salon?

“I have always had a passion for skin and nail health, instilled in me from a really young age via my dad. I worked in salons for many years but there was nowhere that truly made my heart sing, so I created it myself. I had a vision of a huge space, light and bright with the sun streaming through billowing curtains, and a brilliant, all-female, supportive team who loved what they do as much as me. And that’s just what I’ve done!” How do you ensure you salon has that luxury vibe?

“To me, luxury is really in the attention to detail. That’s what makes anything luxurious. We’re not just about a manicure or a facial, we’re about the manicure experience and the facial experience. And ultimately, I think it’s

Is there a huge demand from clients for one of your highly sought after Chanel manicures/pedicures?

“This type of high service nail care treatment just doesn’t really exist in the beauty landscape in Australia. So, we see clients that value the whole experience and the quality, beyond our excellent results and beautiful nails.”

Plans for the future?

What do clients love most about this luxury service?

“At Jocelyn Petroni, we don’t offer just a manicure or pedicure. We’re really optimising nail health – protecting the integrity of the nail and ensuring the nails look, feel and function in the best possible state. It truly is a manicure or a pedicure experience. That we paint on a gorgeous colour in a beautiful way that just lasts so much longer than your average manicure is really just a bonus.” Tell us the most popular service on your skincare menu?

“The Signature Heart Chakra Facial is so popular because it’s a really thorough facial offering that has phenomenal results. Lots of different techniques are utilised throughout the facial and it’s a great opportunity for a detailed skin analysis, so it makes it a great starting point for all clients. It is also the treatment that really highlights how highly trained our therapists are. Each Jocelyn Petroni skin therapist is also a trained reiki master (which can take a few years to attain). It means the results of the treatment aren’t only about

the skin, but about the holistic wellbeing of the client.” How often is the menu changed?

“Typically, we introduce a new treatment based around the season (to treat skin specifically for summer and then for winter, for example), but we’re not frequently adding and deleting experiences, as a general rule. My priority is around a results-based offering, so unless it gives results, you won’t find it here. We’ve recently added some machines and devices, which is an evolution for the business, but it’s really because technology has come so far in recent times, that I felt like it could fit with the rest of what we do.” Why is being in the luxe end of the market important to you?

“Personally, I am a perfectionist. I love really, really good customer service, and I’m passionate about the part of beauty which is being tactile and intimate and loving. I think all of those things have just come together to create a really high-performance salon.”

“I will never be looking for world domination, and more and more salons and doors and spaces. That’s never been my ambition. I like things to be special and bespoke and tailored, so I am content with having the beautiful space that I do, and just continue to push the boundaries of what a client can expect out of a beauty service. Of course, the future plans are always to continuously evolve and improve the service we offer to clients, so right now, that has resulted in our website launching ecommerce, so clients can purchase a curated edit of premium care products directly from us.” How do you choose the brands that are stocked in your salon - it must be super competitive to be housed in your space, any criteria you can share?

“I am forever on the hunt for results-driven products and brands, and there are a tonne of different ways that I find them. I have always been a seeker of information and passionate about research, so I’m constantly talking to a global network of industry experts. Every time I travel, I try to experience new products and treatments too. It’s excellent for inspiration. My criteria is really just to try things myself. I have to personally love it and believe in its performance in order to bring it in to our space.” n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

makeup

RAE MORRIS

BANS FUR

Many makeup artists have chosen a cruelty-free life and refuse to even work with brands that still test on animals. Shania O’Brien speaks to makeup artist Rae Morris about her recent decision to go 100% vegan.

THIS BEAUTY mogul is an influential makeup artist, best-selling author, and four-time winner of Australian Makeup Artist of the Year. Morris is also the longest serving Makeup Director for L’Oreal Paris (2003-2013) and has been inducted into multiple Halls of Fame. Morris recently announced that she would stop using fur for her best-selling brush collection after NGO PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) released a video exposé of China’s badger brush industry. The video details how even ‘protected’ badgers are illegally hunted in the wild using cruel methods like snares. Most of the badgers are shown to be confined in small cages and raised in captivity before being brutally killed for paint, makeup, and shaving brushes. While Morris previously used badger fur for her Magnetic Brush Range, she has now committed to going completely vegan. “Rae Morris is a leader in the beauty industry,” says PETA’s Emily Rice. “Now, the award-winning author is leading the way again, committing to 100% vegan brushes, preventing gentle badgers – and all other animals – from being beaten with crude instruments before their throats are cut.”

Do we really need fur in brushes? “We don’t need natural hair in brushes anymore — the technology is out there, hence why I now use patented fibres that are vegan. They are softer than natural hair yet strong enough to use on all cream and powder base products. The most important aspects of a brush are the design of the head and the fibre combination used to fit a specific application … and there is no compromise in using vegan fibres.”

Can you tell us why you’ve decided to ban fur? “I chose to do this many years ago, and it’s the right thing to do for all brands. We took extensive steps to ensure we sourced ethically and cruelty free, but it still never felt right – the only way to be 100% sure is to ban fur completely … and it’s the best thing I ever did! I would really love for all brands to align and do the same thing.”

How do you feel about skin-testing on animals? “I simply won’t do it, and I won’t sell in any market that requires testing on animals. I hope I feel like the rest of the world does, when it comes to makeup, it should be banned. I’m developing innovative products right now, and the great news is it is harder to find manufacturers who do animal testing.”

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What material will you use for your best-selling collection of brushes going forward? “I’m so happy to say, we’ll be sticking with the material we changed to two years ago, because the technology is still so advanced.” Do you think the change will affect the smooth application of makeup? “The patented fibre works better as I’ve been able to duplicate the porosity of my favourite existing hair fibres but make them better. The fibres we use replicate the structure of natural hairs but are stronger and more consistent (because they are not dependent on how an animal is treated) so as a designer I have much more flexibility and predictability – I’ve been able to create my best brushes yet!”

Do you think vegan products are better quality than animal products? Do they generally last longer? “Absolutely! I think the cosmetic world has had a shake up, thanks to social media, and many brands have been called out. Hence, laboratories had to implicate changes to not only make brands more vegan but to also have the technology and formulations to stabilise them.” Why should more brands and makeup artists commit to going vegan? “Because at no point is it ok to have an animal suffer for vanity. NEVER.” What are other ways you think the beauty industry can commit to protecting animals? “Contribute back, e.g. donate a small percentage to charities like PETA, because they do the work that not many people want to do. Also, we need to call out brands that are not conforming.” Why do you think the industry should try to use more sustainable products? “I can’t wait until the day the words vegan, and environmental ingredients are just in the fine print of all beauty products (I was going to say ‘clean’ but until that’s regulated and rules are put in place, such as a checklist, that word is very misleading).” Do you think vegan products can be rebranded to appear as a luxury good? “Luxury is luxury, and yes you can have mass market and luxury vegan products, it does take more than being vegan to be luxury, there are some amazing luxury brands in the market, RMS, Rare Beauty, and of course ‘Rae Morris’ to name a few.” n

focus on the

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TALKING BEAUTY Hannah Gay navigates the Australian professional beauty industry, one burgeoning trend at a time.

Securing A SALE FOR THE average Australian consumer, shopping for beauty products is a challenge. I’m often one to take a stroll down the beauty aisle at Woolies to check out its wall of cleansers. And I’ll admit, waiting for a prescription at the chemist is always more enticing when Cetaphil’s on sale. It baffled me as a teenager that some beauty products would cost more than others, and that grabbing a can of Le Tan somehow never felt quite so rewarding as splurging on St Tropez. Growing up, I came to assume it was all just a branding thing – that a Chanel foundation would always cost more because… Chanel. I’m certainly more savvy nowadays, however the confusion felt by the bulk of Aussie beauty consumers remains. One client will gladly drop a day’s wage on a deep cleansing facial, yet follow with a haul of celebrityendorsed skincare. While both are typically considered ‘treat’ purchases, the methodology behind each spend doesn’t quite line up. There’s no doubt the results gained from a treatment with a trained beauty therapist cannot be matched. And yet somehow, consumers of beauty will regularly lean on other stockists to serve them better skin. I look at it in two ways: firstly, the financial incentive. When a professional moisturiser can cost upwards of $100, we’re often swayed into picking up a $12 alternative at our next grocery shop. The second, more challenging issue to navigate is around marketing. Unfortunately, measures around ingredient marketing remain loose, confusing buyers into believing there’s no difference between a retail niacinamide and a professional one. It’s a conversation I enter into regularly with friends in an attempt to condense the science into layman’s terms. “If I could shout it from the rooftops it would be that just because a product has cult status in a Facebook beauty group, it doesn’t mean that it’s actually a good quality product or one that is right for you,” argues Skintifix owner and dermaviduals stockist of 13 years, Robyn McAlpine. “As a society we spend far too much money on beauty products that don’t deliver the promise that the shiny marketing suggested it would. Partnered with guidance and support, working with a corneotherapist

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takes the guesswork and trial and error out of buying skincare which means you’re getting more for your investment instead of buying self-guided, off the shelf (or the internet).” So how does the beauty therapist rectify this, better educating their clients and in turn, prompting them to spend in-salon instead? National Educator for RefectoCil Australia, Hayley Sultana reminds us that pro products are dearer than non-pro given the high quality and/or active ingredients they contain. “These unique ingredients make the products more effective and long lasting, so although professional products may be slightly more expensive initially, in the long run you can be guaranteed of more consistent and reliable results which translates into more bang for your buck!” The brand retails a line of at-home SKUs through its salon stockists, ensuring clients are face-to-face with choice post-treatment. “Customers are not only getting a customised and professional service from their lash or brow artist but have the satisfaction of knowing the products they use following their professional treatment have been specifically designed to deliver ongoing results.” In 2017, Lisa Conway wrote in her book Your Salon Retail (Zing Office): “People want to make informed decisions. As a professional, it’s your job to inform them.” I once worked in retail and so this lesson has been pumped through my veins. It’s a steeper learning curve for the beauty therapist, who can often be reluctant to sell to their clients as they feel it’s not their area of expertise. Investing in solid staff training is a vital way to boost selling skills. RefectoCil has invested in free monthly online training sessions, live demonstrations and RefectoCil certified courses for its stockists. “Our philosophy is that up-selling and education work hand-in-hand,” Hayley says. “We teach industry professionals and encourage them to educate their clients on the benefits and importance of home care products along with emphasising the benefits as to why a particular salon treatment can enhance another. When these techniques are passed on in a professional manner there really is no need to ‘upsell’.” Robyn takes a stricter approach to sales, whereby clients are required to undergo a skin analysis prior to

beauty diary

making any in-salon purchase decisions. “I do believe it hinders clients but for all the right reasons. And as a business owner this is exactly what you want! It creates a client who is committed to the process and who understands the importance of knowing their skin in order to get results. By not having direct online sales it creates a really strong client-to-business relationship.” Like getting a product tip-off from a friend, a recommendation from a trusted therapist is just as good. Sometimes, when we’re lost amongst the noise that is modern beauty marketing, we just want to be told what to do and how to do it. “One of our highest values is trust and intention,” Robyn explains. “This means we are always asking ourselves what’s the best option for the client in front of us. For some clients, the best option is the cheaper one and that’s what we will always go with. The bonus of integritydriven retailing is that it’s also seen our retail sales skyrocket.” ■

TOP TIPS FOR UPSELLING, WITH THE SALES CATALYST’S NEIL OSBORNE: ♦ “ Practice your open-ended questions to bring out the real reason your client is wanting something and Neil Osborne is a respected salon then guide them to what they need, to achieve industry sales coach. www.thesalescatalyst.com.au. that want. Most people listen with the intent to interrupt.” ♦ “ [As a manager], you need to acknowledge the behaviour you want more of from your team. Notice when team members are doing things right and offer a short and positive acknowledgement. You’ll then start to see more of the behaviour you acknowledged. The key is to focus on what you want more of, not what you’re not getting.” ♦ “ A common mistake I experience is therapists ask their clients what product(s) they use. The client then defends the brand they’ve either previously chosen or worse, a friend had recommended to them. Once that happens, it’s a losing battle. Instead, ask your client what their skin routine is - all women have a morning and evening one. Avoid asking about brands! Instead, listen for the gaps and start there, maybe with a serum or eye cream. Works every time.” ♦ “ Stop selling, start upgrading. Why? Because nobody likes being sold, yet everyone loves to be upgraded. Think about how you can rephrase your offer, and ways you can ‘let them’ buy. The language most therapists use can make it hard for a client to comfortably buy.”

o t s p e 3 St s w o r B Perfect

Find out more

There’s no time like the present to revamp your brow treatments. The RefectoCil full brow service is sure to take your client’s brows from unruly to unrivalled in three styling steps. For all product and training enquiries, contact RefectoCil Australia directly on (02) 7200 8452 or email sales@refectocil-australia.com.au.

BEFORE

AFTER

webinar

In Conversation

TERRI VINSON In celebration of the launch of Professional Beauty’s new webinar series, here’s a snippet of Hannah Gay’s chat with the brains behind Australian cosmeceutical brand Synergie Skin. Terri discredits the notion that natural ingredients supercede synthetics when it comes to skincare use, all in the name of Clean Science.

“WE NEED to break it down into what sort of natural and organic ingredients are being used [in skincare] and there’s two very different movements: there’s the clean beauty movement, and then there’s the clean science movement. Way back, over 15 years ago, I actually IP’d the phrase ‘Clean Science’. I was at a medical conference in Las Vegas with a doctor friend of mine, and she and I were just talking about the brand and I saw that Synergie really was Clean Science. She was a really clever girl and she said ‘you should IP that!’. ‘As if’, I thought – I cannot IP that phrase, it’s too common. I rang my lawyer that night because I was in Vegas, she’s in Melbourne and I said ‘can I IP ‘Clean Science’? I’m sure I can’t.’ And she said yes, you can! So I own that. This is a really important phrase because it’s not clean and necessarily natural; you really have to embrace synthetics. And I think with the clean beauty movement – a lot of them say ‘oh, you’ve got to have natural, you’ve got to have this, you’ve got to have that’. In fact, the minute you process any ingredient, even glycerin, even aloe vera, it is no longer 100% natural. It may be naturally derived, but it’s no longer 100% natural. Also think of a natural ingredient for example, like arsenic and lead. Arsenic and lead are lethal. They are completely natural. Lead is a heavy metal. I am in no way going to put lead in my products and say ‘oh well, lead is natural, let’s pop it in’.

WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU

webinar

Another example – we use an ingredient that is created by bacteria that live on the surface of algae only found off the coast of Brittany, France, and this particular ingredient increases the production of healthy stem cells in our skin. It’s a really, really important ingredient. So I’ve got a choice as a scientist. With the suppliers I buy this ingredient from, could have either pillaged the coast of Brittany, got all the seaweed, got the bacteria, extracted the phycosaccharide and put it in the products. That’s 100% naturally derived. That’s option one. Option two is taking one bacteria from that seaweed off the coast of Brittany, taking it back to a lab, cloning that bacteria and reproducing it a million upon millions upon a million times, creating this particular pure ingredient that is more sustainable and more ethical. One’s synthetic, one’s natural - make the choice. That’s why I believe that laboratory-made ingredients really need to be talked about. There’s a lot of synthetics out there that are life-saving. There’s a lot of synthetics out there, for example the peptides I use in so many of my formulations are 100% manmade, laboratory-made but boy they pack a punch! So we need to say: Clean Science is the best of what nature can provide, naturally derived (not natural), and harnessed together with what laboratory science can provide without anything questionable or harmful.

www.naturallook.com.au info@naturallook.com.au

“Clean Science is the best of what nature can provide, naturally derived (not natural), and harnessed together with what laboratory science can provide without anything questionable or harmful.” And there’s another part to this: fearmongering, which I absolutely hate. I don’t want to be the person that says ‘oh, parabens, preservatives, they’re going to kill you, they’ll give you breast cancer’ or ‘you’re going to get very sick if you put on a chemical sunscreen’... far from it! But what I believe is that if there is some negative information or negative data about an ingredient, I will choose not to have that in my laboratory. That’s my choice... And if that’s your choice to use paraben preservatives, I’m sure you’re not going to get breast cancer anytime soon. But my choice is to use ingredients with a very, very clean safety profile, whether they’re synthetic or whether they’re naturally- derived.” n To watch the full webinar, visit www.professionalbeauty.com.au.

BEAUTY & SPA I N S I D E R S 12 September 2022 Join us for

Australia’s Premier Beauty and Medi-aesthetics Event The third instalment is returning to Sydney. BEAUTY & SPA Insiders is our celebration of the Australian beauty and medi-aesthetics industry – showcasing talent, innovation and creativity. Join us for presentations and panels from industry leaders and get ready to explore the latest trends, technologies, and news from well-loved and upcoming brands. Designed to inspire, BEAUTY & SPA Insiders also provides the opportunity to connect and celebrate with like-minded professionals from across the industry.

12 September 2022 Hinchcliff House, Sydney www.beautyandspainsiders.com.au

Tickets are on sale now

Guest speakers include: SARAH HUDSON Founder and Director Skin By Sarah Hudson

OTTO MITTER Managing Director Elleebana

DR YUMIKO KADOTA MBBS (Hons) BSc (Med) Hons I Director Sydney Face Doctor

CATHY TOLPIGIN Founder and Curator The Green Edit

DOUGLAS PEREIRA Founder Douglas Pereira Skin Health

VICTORIA CURTIS CEO and Founder Curtis Collection

SUZIE HOITINK RN FACN Co-Director and Senior Consultant Htnk Consulting

SARAH HUGHES Mediclinic training manager The International Dermal Institute

DR MARTINA LAVERY BDS Clinician and Owner Martina Dental And +Aesthetics

GRY TØMTE Founder HÜD & The Profit + Purpose Concept

ERE PEREZ Founder Ere Perez Natural Cosmetics

Discover the full speaker line-up online at www.beautyandspainsiders.com.au

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

Professional Beauty July-August 2022

Articles inside

BEAUTY ESCAPE: PALM COVE

BUSINESS: THE OPULENCE APPEAL

SKINCARE: THE FACES OF LUXURY

SKINFLUENCER: DOUGLAS PEREIRA

PROFILE: INGRID SEABURN

LUXURY LEADERS: PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOLUTIONS

LUXURY LEADERS: CURTIS COLLECTION

LUXURY LEADERS: SKINGEN

LUXURY LEADERS: MESOESTETIC PHARMA GROUP

LUXURY LEADERS: WiQo

LUXURY LEADERS: PAYOT

SKINCARE: THE SCIENCE OF LUXURY

TALKING POINT: REFECTOCIL

TALKING POINT: ULTRADERM

TALKNG POINT: DERMATONICS

TALKING POINT: LYCON COSMETICS

PROMOTION: BEAUTYEXPO 2022

COVER STORY: BRAND BUILDING

BEAUTY INVESTIGATION: THE NEW AND IMPROVED INFLUENCER