Concept Hair Magazine Winter 2021 issue by SNG Publishing

WINTER 2021

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Winter 2021 / Editor's Word

editor's

word

I hello!

’m so excited to be joining the Concept Hair team as Editor of this inspirational magazine. I’ve worked as a journalist within the hairdressing industry for around 15 years now and I love it. Hairdressers are creative and passionate about what they do — they really love their jobs. And it’s easy to see why. Hairdressing offers incredible career opportunities. The list of what you can do and achieve is endless, whether you're transforming clients in a salon, travelling the world as a brand ambassador or working backstage at a fashion show. There’s no getting away from the fact that the past 12 months have been challenging. But hairdressers are a resilient bunch — that passion keeps them going and drives them to succeed no matter what the world throws at them. I hope that you have maintained your excitement for hairdressing despite everything that has been going on. I can promise you that it’s worth pushing yourself forward and achieving your qualifications. Hairdressing is a hugely rewarding career choice and I know you will love it! The team here at Concept Hair are one hundred percent committed to helping you get the most from your studies. We’re there to offer you inspiration, useful tips and advice and a window into the wonderful world of hairdressing. Think of Concept Hair as your mentor as you work towards your goals. I hope you enjoy this issue of Concept Hair. Be sure to let us know what you think by getting in touch on any of our social media platforms. We love to hear from you and see your work.

EDITOR: MATTHEW BATHAM matthew.batham@sng-publishing.co.uk

SENIOR DESIGNER: LEE OWEN design@sng-publishing.co.uk

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: PATRICK BLORE patrick.blore@sng-publishing.co.uk

OPERATIONS MANAGER: EMILY HILTON emily.hilton@sng-publishing.co.uk

MANAGING DIRECTOR: ZOË TANNER zoe.tanner@sng-publishing.co.uk

TECHNICAL CONTRIBUTORS: VTCT, Pivot Point

PRINTERS Stephens & George, Wales

DISCLAIMER Concept Hair Magazine is published by SNG Publishing Ltd (SNG). All content and artwork is © SNG Publishing Ltd or its contributors and SNG is a trade mark of SNG Publishing Ltd. No part of Concept Hair Magazine may be copied, transmitted or published in any form or by any means without prior permission. Although SNG has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this publication, it does not verify any claims or other information appearing in the advertisements contained in Concept Hair Magazine. It therefore cannot accept any responsibility whatsoever for consequences that may arise from the content or artwork contained in Concept Hair Magazine, including any errors or omissions or any opinions or advice given therein. This publication and its content is not a substitute for professional advice on a particular matter. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Concept Hair Magazine only upon SNG Publishing Ltd standard terms of advertising.

Stay focused and inspired.

www.concepthairmag.co.uk

Cover credit: L’Oréal Professionnel Paris

Matthew Batham Editor

Search: ConceptHairMag

is a hugely rewarding career “Hairdressing choice and I know you will love it! ” GENERAL ENQUIRIES To subscribe to Concept Hair Magazine call 0121 606 3016 or subscribe online at www.concepthairmag.co.uk

Concept Hair / 01

contents

Winter 2021 / Contents

features

22 Fit for Learning — Food for Thought

01 Editor’s Word

23 Indola — New Cool Hues

04 The Latest News

26 Cutting Long Hair

06 Learner of the Year 08 Wella Professionals’ New Education HERO 10 20 Things I love with Grace Dalgleish 12 Colour Trends – Winter Warmers

14 Electrical Styling Tools – Tips and tricks

16 L’Oréal Professionnel on the Smoky Hair Trend 18 Interview — Luke Benson 20 Fit for Learning — Managing Social Media Time

28 Passion4Hair – Face-toFace education 30 How to Create Long Layers 32 Look Book — Bad Apple 34 Look Book — Salon 54

36 Look Book — Hooker & Young

38 Hot Technology

50 Business Skills — Delivering a Great Colour Consultation

40 What is an Art Team? 42 Cloud 9 — How to Create Voluminous Waves 44 Wella Professionals on Creating the Perfect Grey Blend

51 Wella Xposure Joins TrendVision 57 Learner of the Month

learner of the year

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Exercises

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48 Superstar Salons – Great Places to Work

37 Portfolio — Readers’ Work

20 Things I love with Grace Dalgleish

47 Bettertons —Why it’s Worth Investing in Scissors

05 Trending

45 Concept Barbering — Clipper and Scissor Techniques

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53 The Client Consultation 54 Barbering — Cutting with clippers

55 Cutting Long Hair

Winter 2021 / Contents

look book — bad apple

Interview — Luke Benson

Concept Barbering — Clipper and Scissor Techniques

Concept Hair / 03

LATEST news

Winter 2021 / News

F&M Hairdressing Officially a Safe Place Safety in the community is something that is extremely important to the team at F&M Hairdressing. The team go out of their way to look out for those in their local area and offer help.

With this in mind, F&M Hairdressing has been certified by Police Scotland as a Safe Place, as part of the I Am Me initiative. F&M Hairdressing contacted the I Am Me charity and, following an assessment, is now listed as a confirmed ‘safe place’ within their local area of Barrhead. The salon has a ‘Keep Safe’ logo on their windows. If someone is in need of assistance or help they simply walk into the salon and say ‘Keep Safe.’ A member of the management team will then escort the individual to a private area and make contact with the relevant authorities. The member of staff will stay with that person until they arrive.

Toni&Guy presents its first global digital event, Connected The global family of Toni&Guy came together on 29 November for its first ever global digital event. Called Connected, the event was a celebration of inspiration, education and hair. More than 5,500 people attended, either tuning in live or registering to watch following the event. The one-hour spectacle took viewers on a journey around the world. Teams from Australia, Japan, Italy, Spain, China and the UK presented the Toni&Guy 2021 campaigns Utilitarian, Keep it Real and Reverie all under the Connected umbrella.

Hairdressing Awards 2020, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. For the third time, Sally Brooks, co-owner of Brooks&Brooks, London, received the ultimate accolade of British Hairdresser of the Year.

Sally Brooks Named British Hairdresser of the Year The very best of British hairdressing talent was celebrated at HJ’s British

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For the first time in its 36 year history, the Oscars of the hair world went live and virtual, presented by TV Celeb Rylan Clark-Neal and British Hairdressing Awards Executive Director, Jayne Lewis-Orr. Sally’s winning collection, ‘2020 WTF’ was styled on hairdressing doll heads and was her way of proving that the

hairdressers can find a new way of working, creating something that is creative and unique, no matter what comes their way. Delighted with the win, Sally said: “I’m so shocked. We’ve just proved as an industry how resilient we are. I don’t think this award should have my name on it, it should have hairdressers everywhere on it – Hairdressers United!” Visit: www.concepthairmag.co.uk for a full list of winners

New GENNow Team Announced A group of five up-andcoming hairdressers has been chosen to form the new Wella Professionals GenNOW team. The inspirational five will embark on an 18-month programme. Lead mentor, and former GenNOW team member, Luke Benson will direct the team’s experience. GenNOW celebrated its 10year anniversary in 2020. The scheme was launched by Wella Professionals to discover rising stars hungry to make their mark in the world of hairdressing. Being part of GenNOW will open doors to a wide range of educational opportunities. These could include on-stage platform work at some of the industry’s biggest events. Mentor Luke Benson said: “I think we have discovered some incredible new hairdressing talent in the making. I am really looking forward to this creative journey with them. We’re going to work hard but it’s going to be great fun.”

The five team members are: Tarin Scott from Hazel and Haydn Sophie Kinlock from McIntyres Danielle Boler from NJUK Aisling Kenny from House of Colour Emily Worboys freelance

Winter 2021 / Trending

digital #Editor's Filter column LOVING YOUR WORK

BY MATTHEW BATHAM, EDITOR

IT’S A VIRTUAL WORLD

uring my first few months as Editor of Concept Hair, I’ve been introduced to the world of virtual press launches and live streaming. It’s very different to what I’m used to, but it has its advantages. Sitting in my living room watching talented hairdressers talk about the latest trends and the products that can help create them has become a regular pass-time.

In the past few weeks, I’ve attended launches for the new Volumizer Set from Hot Tools, with live demos from multi-award-winning hairdresser, Robert Eaton; I’ve listened to top session stylists Syd Hayes talk passionately about the new vegan and eco-friendly range WeDo; and enjoyed some quality time with Joico and the brand’s global artistic director, Richard Mannah who joined us from Miami to chat through the relaunched K-Pak range.

eeing your amazing hair work pop up in our Instagram feed is always so exciting for us! We love to see what you are working on and your wonderful hair creations. Don’t forget to tag us in on you creative posts @concepthairmag Here’s some that have caught our eye.

Jacqui Smith, Brooke Evans, Ironbridge @creativehairby.Jacquie

Sarah Ameed Ahmed, Walsall College @thefabhairdressing

Katie Cook, Brooke Evans, Ironbridge @katiecookhair

Elsie Bennets, The Hair Hut, Cornwall @elsieathairhut

Adding to the fun has been ghd with its live streams of interviews with some of hairdressings top talent, including Afro Hair specialist Charlotte Mensah, who shared details of her new book, Good hair, and top session stylists, Luke Benson, who demonstrated some very cool party looks. I know there will be lots more virtual events to come between me writing this and you reading it — and I can’t wait. Obviously, I also can’t wait to get back to meeting everyone in person again, but in the meantime, I’m embracing the virtual world from the comfort of my sofa.

diary Dates 25 January — HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards

26 April — Concept Hair Learner of the Year Grand Final

29 March — Creative Head’s Most Wanted Awards

16th-18th October — Salon International, ExCeL London

www.concepthairmag.co.uk

Search: ConceptHairMag Concept Hair / 05

Winter 2021 / LOY

Excitement Builds Over Learner of the Year 2021 Competition OF

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The Concept Hair Learner of the Year 2021 competition gives the next generation of hairdressers and barbers the chance to be recognised for their hard work and skills. This year we shook things up with a new name and format. We were confident the changes would generate even more interest from talented learners across the UK, and you didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disappoint us.

06 / Concept Hair

Winter 2021 / LOY

The excitement started back in September when the competition was officially launched on our website www.concepthairmag.co.uk. Entering was easy. Educators simply had to upload images of their student’s work into one of these categories:

STYLING Styling – Level 1 – Festival Hair Styling – Level 2 – Festival Hair Hair Up – Level 2 – Red Carpet Hair Up – Level 3 – Red Carpet Barbering – Level 2 – Old School Barbershop

HAIR UP

Barbering – Level 3 – Old School Barbershop Colouring – All Levels – Celebration of Colour

the 2021 sponsors We’d like to say a big THANK YOU to our amazing sponsors! Learner of the Year would not have been possible without our amazing sponsors, all truly dedicated to supporting and nurturing the next generation of hairdressing talent. A massive shout out to: L’Oréal Professionnel, Wahl, Cloud Nine, Bettertons, VTCT and the Fellowship for British Hairdressing.

Avant-Garde – Levels 2 & 3 – Safari Entries started to flood in almost immediately and by the closing date of 17 December we had received over 1000 entries.

BARBERING

COLOURING

First-round judging took place in January with the expert panel of industry pros, including representatives from all our incredible sponsors, blown away by the standard of work. The final round of judging will take place in March, then its full-steam ahead to the grand final, which this year is likely to be a virtual event, but we can promise huge amounts of excitement as we announce this year’s talented winners. Look out for updates on times and dates of this event on www.concepthairmag.co.uk. We can’t wait to share all the excitement of the final with you, both on our website and in the summer edition of Concept Hair Magazine.

WWW.CONCEPTHAIRMAG.CO.UK AVA N T- G A R D E

the next generation starts now! Concept Hair / 07

Winter 2021 / Education

Wella Introduces a new Education HERO

Wella Professionals is building Communities for Lecturers and Learners.

ella Professionals believe that education is the secret to a long and successful career. The skills and knowledge you gain during your training will form the foundations that will see you grow and flourish as a hairdresser. With this in mind, we have launched HERO, a resource centre and community for lecturers and students to share and gain knowledge on all aspects of education within the hairdressing industry. We firmly believe that by sharing our knowledge, we can inspire and grow as an industry â&#x20AC;&#x201D; an industry that is driven by passion and creativity. We want to work with you to lead our beautiful industry into a bright new future.

08 / Concept Hair

Winter 2021 / Education

OUR BRAND NEW PARTNERSHIP WITH MW Sign up now to discover all the online education, resources, latest news and information. Through our partnership with online education specialist MW, we are also excited to offer access to their exclusive online content.

Join our community

O. O PTIO N 3.

Scan QR code

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT The exclusive HERO learning hub will offer all of this and more:

VIRTUAL TRAINING

Online Education

Regular virtual training updating all our members on new techniques, industry news and demonstrations.

MW Fundamentals

PRINTABLE RESOURCES

Wella Product knowledge Client Consultation Techniques Colouring Techniques Long Hair Tutorial

Consultation forms

Inspiration

One pagers

Barbering Techniques

Fact sheets

Coaching

Marketing Material

FOR LEARNERS “How To” Video Library For all skills and techniques Career Advice How to run a successful column, customer service, career path. Competitions Concept Hair / 09

Winter 2021 / 20 Things I Love

20 things i

love

Grace Dalgleish is the Education Director at Brooks & Brooks in London. Her passions are colour and creativity. As well as being part of the salon’s award-winning art team, she is a regular educator for L’Oréal Professionnel. Favourite celebrity hair co

lour?

Madonna pink

What inspires you?

Worst hair cut you have ever had?

My mum once gave me a Victoria Beckham-inspired graduated bob, sup erlong at the front, super-short at the back . It was my first day at high school and I have been growing it out ever since!

Best thing about hairdress

Sunday roast with all the trimmings.

Favourite colouring brand? L’Oréal Professionnel.

Starter, main and dessert — I live to eat!

Highlights or balayage?

My approach to colour ha s always been very visual so I love freehand techniques and the way we can paint in such a variety of ways with balayage to achieve different results.

of?

c – it’s a classic.

Dreams by Fleetwood Ma

Favourite city?

end would love to sp London — but I ew York. more time in N

Favourite relaxing thing to do?

Sit on the sofa with a glass of wine and binge on a good series.

Favourite colouring tool?

a staple Framar colour brushes are also playing tool to have in your kit. I’m ers, sponges and around with beauty blend ment. mascara wands at the mo

Show or seminar?

I love working with Brooks & Brooks artistic team on shows. It’s such a creative journey. But teaching ha s to be one of the favourite parts of my job .

r? me a hairdresse rs se es dr ght hair

mily of ei Being from a fa y whole around hair m I have grown up own. kn all I have ever life – it’s kind of

Favourite hair trend? I love the 70’s shag married together with a two-toned colour.

without?

go to. It can L’Oréal techni art PLI is my hair. You can g lin sty for cover so many areas hold, volume and layer it up to create more the hair tacky. texture and it never leaves kit. It’s always in my session

Colour, cut or style?

Favourite food?

Starter or dessert?

Product you couldn’t live

I’m really into panelled work, creating simplistic yet powerful points of interest in the hair.

Colour is my first love; I love a colour challenge or transformati on. But I l do love to create hair fro m start to finish with the colour an d cut.

Any creative ambitions?

Why did you beco

ing?

Working in a team and ma king people feel their best.

I would love to get more into photography. I really enjoy taking pictures and playing around with the edits and tools on my phone – it sometimes sparks inspiration and idea s.

A song you will never tire

Favourite colouring technique?

My team, travelling, skies.

@gracedalgleishx

Favourite moment in care

er?

Being asked to present the show at the L’Oréal Colour Troph y regional tour show with fellow art team member Marlon Hawkins .

Winter 2021 / Colour Trends

winter

s r e m r a W

This season, colour is all about creating multi-tonal looks with depth and warmth. Here’s what some of the nation’s top hairdressing talent had to say on winter colour trends.

red

BRUNETTE

FASHION COLOUR

For the winter season it’s all about multi-tonal reds — working from shades such as maroon, burgundy and deep auburn then transitioning into lighter, richer tones such as fire engine reds, crimson and scarlet.

When I imagine the perfect brunette colour, I instantly think of luxurious, warm, rich tones. Although you can get beautiful cool brunettes, a warm brunette with maroon undertones will always be my favourite look for the winter season. A popular shade right now is classic mocha melt — a warm tone of brunette that I recommend to my clients when they want to switch up their look for the colder months.

Pink is always a popular fashion choice and shades on a pink colour palette are warm and uplifting for the winter months. For this look, which has a cool 90s vibe, I played with shades of pink, coral and lilacs to create definition and texture within the hair.

Colour-melt roots will be big this season — this is where the root is a deeper shade and melts into a lighter, more vibrant tone. We’ll also see a lot of freehand highlights, to create multidimensional colour. This is great for clients with textured or extremely curly hair.

This look starts with a strong, dark root, softly diffusing into a beautiful mocha shade at the ends of the hair.

When creating fashion colours, I always use variations, working from the same base colour to create various hues of the colour palette I'm working with. For this look I used ribbons of different pinks to enhance all the beautiful natural texture of the hair.

top tip

Always recommend a professional shampoo and conditioner and advise clients to wash their hair with cooler water, as this reduces colour fade while adding a beautiful shine.

To create the ultimate natural shine finish, drag through some of the darker root colour to achieve a multi-tonal look. This will instantly pop the tone even more and soften up the depth of the darker root.

Try and incorporate a contrasting shade to ensure individuality for each person, so even when following a trend it is still exclusive to the individual.

Destiny Linwood, Stylist, Bloggs Salons, Bristol

See more of this collection on page 32

Robert Kirby, Owner, Robert Kirby, London

12 / Concept Hair

Stephanie Peckmore, Colour Manager, Bad Apple Hair Group

Winter 2021 / Colour Trends

BLONDE Blending is the key theme this winter, with many clients opting for ‘bronding’ — a seamless blending of dark roots into blonde. Dimensions can be altered depending on the desired results, and it’s versatile enough to be matched to a client’s skin tone and eye colour. The other hugely popular technique right now is the ‘front blonde’ — gentle highlights around the face to brighten complexions. It’s important to ensure the blend between the highlight and darker base is natural, matching the client’s skin tone.

Blending is the key theme “ this winter, with many clients opting for ‘bronding’ ”

top tip Use a root stretching technique to create root shadow, blending the natural tone of the roots in with the new colour. A darker shade is applied and blended on the roots to give the impression of a shadow on the top of the hair. Joanna Kapela, Senior Stylist and Colour Specialist, Ego Hair Design

Concept Hair / 13

Winter 2021 / Electrical styling tools

Turning on the Heat

Heated styling tools are a must-have addition to any kit bag.

hey are a kitbag essential – often vital for beautiful, wearable hair. Used correctly the results can be amazing; used with a twist on the norm, and they can be magical! Noel Halligan and Corey Taylor from NOCO Hair offer their tips on getting the most out of your heated tools. Noel Halligan and Corey Taylor

For natural looking waves and curls, tong each section in an alternate direction. Starting at the front, wind hair away from the face on the first section, then towards the face in the next section and so on. Gently rake through the hair and you’re left with a natural finish.

3 4

If you’re putting hair up, crimp the roots around the crown and brush through to give extra oomf to your style. The larger the wand, the bigger the wave. If hair is particularly fine or difficult to style, use a smaller sized wand. It might not be the result you want instantly, but it will gradually drop into place after a few hours. This way a client will be left with some waves rather than straight hair.

The cold shot on a hairdryer is one of the most under-used buttons. It’s perfect for ‘setting’ curly hair once it’s dry. Use it for 30 seconds when hair is dry to set the curls in place.

RRP £159

Use your straightening irons to create a S-shape in the hair - simply move a section of hair back and forth while moving the iron down the strand to create 70-inspired waves.

RRP £89.99

RRP £65.00

GHD HELIOS™ PROFESSIONAL HAIR DRYER

DIVA PRO STYLING PRECIOUS METALS TOUCH STRAIGHTENER

BABYLISS PRO TITANIUM EXPRESSION CURLING TONG

Used by professionals across the globe, the ghd helios™ hair dryer is the go-to for professional styling – lighter, faster and smoother than ever! Take your blow-dry to a new level with the ghd helios™. Price: £159 www.ghdhair.com

Macadamia, Argan Oil & Keratin infused ceramic plates give your hair a sleek and professional finish. The swipe temperature control panel allows you to choose the perfect styling temperature for your hair type, and the rounded housing makes curling easier than ever. Price: Currently reduced from £129.99 to £89.99. Register for a trade discount. www.divapro.co.uk

Available in six barrel sizes from 13mm to 38mm for all types of curl, with ultra-advanced ceramic heaters for constant, regulated temperature control. Eleven temperature settings up to 210°C. Quick heat up to instantly meet demand. Price: £65.00 www.babylisspro.co.uk

14 / Concept Hair

Winter 2021 / How To / Advertorial

Create Smouldering Smoky Hair with L’Oréal Professionnel paris The smoky eye is a make-up staple — a timeless look that blends subtly different shades for a flawless, luxury finish, suited to women of all ages. Now the smoky trend is set to become a major movement in the world of hair colour, L’Oréal Professionnel Paris will continue to inspire you with their looks.

ike its cosmetics counterpart, the smoky hair technique is all about seamless blending of tones, combined with reflective lights on the lengths for a multi-dimensional finish that only a professional colourist could create.

cool & iridescent mocha

Universally appealing The Smoky Hair technique is one that will appeal to a broad base of women, offering hairdressers an invaluable opportunity to offer a coveted service to both existing and new clients. As always, L’Oréal Professionnel Paris is committed to inspiring professionals and has everything you could need to offer a complete smoky hair service. L’Oréal Professionel Paris has extended both its Majirel and Inoa ranges to include new cool shades, to accompany the smoky hair look.

Join our webinar on 20th January 2021: HOW TO CREATE SMOKY HAIR Going live at 2pm - not one to miss! Visit Access to tune in.

#SMOKYHAIR 16 / Concept Hair

cool & cool beige

Winter 2021 / How To / Advertorial

Virtual Consultation companion L’Oréal Professionnel Paris has also updated its ingenious consultation companion app, Style My Hair Pro, to include a new 3D Smoky Hair filter, allowing clients to experience the smoky look remotely, before they commit to anything — although with such stunning results, they won’t need much convincing.

The Perfect Finish It is essential that every smoky hair service is accompanied by the perfect haircare companion. L’Oréal Professionnel Paris has this covered too, with its Serie Expert range of liquid luxury treatments, including the newest addition created specifically for blondes. These express treatments give the ultimate luxurious finish, and can be performed in under five minutes. The new Blondifier Instant Resurfacing Concentrate is designed for sensitised blonde hair, and after one use breakage can be reduced by up to 80%.* It couldn’t be easier — simply apply the treatment in an ‘s’ movement after shampooing, leave in for up to 5 mins, and rinse out. Hair will boast immediate shine, gloss and glow, the perfect finish to enhance that smoky look. * INSTRUMENTAL TEST GLOSS SHAMPOO + CONCENTRATE

cool & plum

cool & rosy beige

Cool & ash

the smoky technique Blend

Blend

Winter 2021 / The Interview

the interview

Luke Benson

replicate — “beDon’t you! Find what you love and work really, really hard

From salon superstar to session supremo, Luke Benson’s career has seen him excel in so many areas of hairdressing.

18 / Concept Hair

HOT TIP

Take opportunities, take risks, be memorable, but most importantly be nice and let things happen organically.

”

Winter 2021 / The Interview

Concept Hair: What attracted you to a hairdressing career?

What did you love about salon hairdressing?

CH: Tell us how your freelance career has progressed

Luke Benson: I always wanted to do something in fashion but not necessarily with clothes. One day I went to the salon my mum used to go to so they could rectify a dodgy bleach job I’d done on myself and I loved the atmosphere. I did some research into the industry and saw that the late Terry Calvert had his flagship Clipso salon in my home town. I went for an interview and did a trial day. Terry showed me all the different potential avenues this career could offer. That was 17 years ago!

LB: I loved the teams I worked in, and loved my clients. Saturdays were my favourite day because I enjoyed being busy and the buzz of the salon. And eventually clients were almost like friends and we were just catching up while I was doing their hair.

LB: I started by shooting a lot with photographers and make-up artists I knew well. Shooting lots of editorials to build up a book and website meant I started to get optioned for other things. Celebrity jobs came in here and there and then they started to ask for me. When managers/labels see celebs on your agency page you are then more attractive to them. I guess that pinnacle happened when I did Billie Eilish’s hair for the Brits performance in 2019.

CH: Tell us about your early training? LB: At Clipso everything was done in-salon, because they had enough apprentices employed that the NVQ could be taught there. Because most of my mates at the time were boys I whizzed through my barbering modules, using them as models. And in a way those techniques really helped me when it came to women’s hair and layering, for example. I’m left handed and no one else there was, so I had to almost reverse everything I was shown. But I kept pushing myself and qualified in just under two years. CH: What were the most important lessons learned during that training? LB: That you are never fully qualified and you are continuously learning and should be striving to get better. And to work hard, be nice and be humble.

CH: When and how did you start to branch into doing more editorial and artistic work? LB: About 10 years ago when I was in the second Wella Generation Now team. It really opened my eyes to that side of the industry, and I started to assist more, work on photoshoots on days off and entered more competitions to build my profile and experience. CH: What attracted you to this side of hairdressing? LB: Probably the variety of it. Whether I’m on a campaign, looking after a celebrity, or educating, every week can be totally different. And I also love that you’re only as good as your last job and that you have to keep relationships going and do good hair to a brief. CH: At what point did you go freelance and what made you take that decision? LB: After I won London Hairdresser of The Year in 2016. I thought ‘I need to go and do this and work as hard as I can to get where I want to be’. And it paid off.

CH: What element of your job now do you love the most? LB: The people. It’s about building relationships so each job becomes more relaxed and they trust you and your input more. Then it becomes a group of creative friends working together. I also love educating and hopefully inspiring young up-and-coming talent and seeing them grow. CH: You do a lot of work with leading hairdressing brands. How did these relationships come about? LB: These relationships develop over time. Wella have supported me a lot though my career, as have ghd. You start to get a name for yourself that attracts brands and you discuss opportunities and see where it leads.

“Work hard, be nice and be humble” Concept Hair / 19

Winter 2021 / Fit for Learning

The Social Debate When does social media become an unhealthy habit and how can we take steps to make sure it doesn’t?

ocial media can be a powerful and positive force. There are thousands of inspirational accounts to follow, and it can be an incredible platform to promote your work, both as a student and as your career progresses. But there is also a potentially dark side to social media with genuine implications for our mental health and wellbeing. Social media consultant and CoOwner of the Hunter & Walsh salon in Penzance, Cornwall, Vivienne Johns has no doubt that social media can become an unhealthy addiction. “Social media scrolling and waiting for the endorphin hit that comes with the ping to say your content has a like, is proven to be addictive,” she says. “I know this from my own experience with social media. In the beginning I allowed it to consume my evenings. This caused problems in my family life, until I had the realisation that social media is part of my job and not part of my life!” And this is one of the positive flip sides to social media. Vivienne’s more 20 / Concept Hair

Use the screen time function on your phone to monitor how much of your day you spend on social media — set a time limit and stick to it.

strategic approach to social media helped grow her business. Making her salon the focus for her activity saw new client visits rise from 17 new guests per month to 77 within six weeks. So, Vivienne is certainly not saying social media is all bad. It’s a huge asset to a growing business, and, in the same way, it can be a great way to grow your personal brand, whatever stage you are at in your hairdressing career. But you do need to be in control. “My advice is to treat your social media time like a job,” says Vivienne. “Set a timer on your phone for, say, 30 minutes – this is your time to engage with your followers and upload your content. Be strict with yourself and do your “work” in that time only. This will keep you focused on the job in hand and will help you avoid getting distracted by cute cat videos! During your 30 minutes it is good to know what you want to achieve — are you seeking more industry recognition or to document your journey, for example? When you have a clear vision of what you want your social media to do for you, you will know what to share.”

@hunterandwalsh

Winter 2021 / Fit for Learning But for many the lure of social media is too great to stick to such discipline and the unrealistic reflection platforms such as Instagram give of someone’s life can lead to unhealthy comparisons.

One of the “ biggest problems in my opinion is believing that somebody else’s highlight reel is a reliable portrayal of their life

”

Says Rachael Gibson, AKA Instagram’s @ thehairhistorian, “One of the biggest problems in my opinion is believing that somebody else’s highlights reel is a reliable portrayal of their life. On social media it’s easy to forget we’re seeing the edited highlights of somebody’s life that they’ve chosen to share — and probably spent days editing and refining — not their dayto-day reality. This can lead to dangerous comparisons and the belief that other people are achieving more, and living more exciting lives than we are. Another related problem that’s common in creative industries is assuming that other people have fast-tracked their way to success simply by being good at social media or by having a large following. We don’t see the years of training, education and experience that have led to what we see now and that’s really important to remember.”

@thehairhistorian

Heffy Wheeler, owner of Hxhair in Rugeley, Staffordshire, also stresses that you shouldn’t believe everything you see on Instagram. Says Heffy: “I believe Instagram is the worst platform for mental health. We end up constantly comparing ourselves to other people. Within our industry, we compare the work we see on Instagram to our own, but it’s important to remember, for example, that a ‘before and after’ transformation hasn’t always been done in one session. It could have been done in stages over several months — but we don’t see that. Work can also be heavily edited.” Heffy also warns other hairdressers not to get too hung up on how many likes or follows they are getting. “Sometimes we can see social media as a reflection of our value as hairdressers,” she says. “We can base our value on how many likes we are getting and how many followers we have. We can aspire to be like others because they seem really important on the internet. It’s about more than just likes and follows. These don’t necessarily mean someone is successful. You can create unhealthy habits, such as comparing yourself to

“weSometimes can see

others and you can end up feeling negative about yourself.”

Heffy has experienced these negative feelings herself, but has taken action to limit her time on social media. “I use the screen time function on my phone to monitor how much of my day I am spending on social media. I try and have times when I put my phone away and I definitely keep it out of the bedroom. If you keep your phone next to the bed, before you know it, it’s 2am!”

social media as a reflection of our value as hairdressers

”

@heffyx

But don’t throw your mobile phone into the nearest river just yet. If you are more mindful of how you use social media, it can be a positive influence. Our advice is to create a social media feed that inspires and uplifts you every time you open your app. Follow people whose work you love and who make you laugh; not people that make you feel bad about yourself or jealous. Social media can be a great force for good, helping you record your career progress and inspire others with your work. So, how about we make 2021 the year of taking control and being mindful of how much social media we are consuming and how we are using it. Be inspired, be entertained and, most importantly, be positive about yourself. Concept Hair / 21

Winter 2021 / Fit for Learning

Food for Thought

Ever find yourself Maintain a balance flagging, losing your Don’t fall foul of fad diets that tell you to cut out one food group or another. focus or finding it hard Each food group serves an important to kick-start your day? purpose. Try and include a healthy mix Maybe you need to look at of carbohydrates, fibre, protein and When it comes to carbs, opt mainly your diet. Here’s our tasty fats. for unprocessed options such as brown guide to eating your way rice and wholegrain bread rather than to a more productive life. the white variants. White carbs may

Don’t skip breakfast! However tempting it might be to make do with a coffee in the morning, make time for breakfast. Slow-release carbs, such as porridge oats or bran flakes are great sources of sustained energy and fibre, and if you follow this with a boiled or poached egg the protein fix will help you stay feeling full for longer. If eggs aren’t your thing, yogurt is another excellent source of protein. If you’re pushed for time, make a smoothie the night before and chill it in the fridge — you could combine yogurt, oats and a selection of fruits for a magical morning mix.

22 / Concept Hair

give you a burst of energy, but its shortlived and can leave you feeling more tired than before you ate.

Energise Your Mind One thing you need while studying is focus. These superfoods will help fuel your mind and give you a sense of well-being. • Spinach is packed with folic acid and vitamin B12 which are proven to help sharpen the mind. • Snack on raisins, which are high in the brain-boosting mineral boron. • Improve your short-term memory with a regular intake of blueberries. • Feast on cold-water fish such as salmon, tuna and maceral. They are all rich in Omega-3 fatty acids which are known to promote healthy brain function.

Winter 2021 / Products

the indola pcc cool hues collection

Endless possibilities just got better…

he world’s smartest colour system is evolving! Indola’s PCC range already delivers advanced technology and flawless shades, each one pixel-perfected with less ammonia and hydrogen peroxide for: • UNIQUE CARING RESULTS • 100% MORE VIBRANCY & SHINE • UP TO 100% GREY COVERAGE Now, Indola’s PCC has extended to include four new Cool Hues. The latest additions have the power to expand both the creative and business horizons of every hairdresser in one stunning offer. The four new shades – inspired by natural, earthy cool tones – deliver gorgeous iridescent results while accentuating a client’s skin tone and features. When it comes to irresistible colour, Indola offers the kind of high performance you can count on. Each new Cool Hue shade delivers intense, long-asting shine with exceptional vibrancy, while strengthening and conditioning the hair. The four new Cool Hues offer a variety of cool brown tones, which perfectly complement the existing compact assortment, with opportunities to intermix shades. They not only offer seamless colour from root to tip but can also be converted into a demipermanent when used with the game-changing Color Transformer, mix ratio 1:1:0.5. Indola’s PCC Color has the same numbering system for straightforward mixing and the same brilliant performance you can rely on.

PCC “isIndola’s a one-stop

solution for all your colouring needs

With the extended shade portfolio hairdressers can now offer more service opportunities, especially for clients with darker hair bases. The new shades from Indola are available in Ash Chocolate 8.18 & 6.18 — highly neutralising shades for smokey results; and Intense Ash 5.11 and 6.11 — iridescent cool tones with a hue of flattering warmth.

”

Indola’s PCC is a one-stop solution for all your colouring needs whether you need to create commercial street style looks or something more consumer friendly. Combined with a blockbuster colouring technique of intelligent placement, Indola PCC is the unrivalled colour offer at an affordable price! Of course, world-class colour performance demands outstanding

inspiration and Indola’s PCC Cool Hues delivers this to the max in Indola’s upcoming Spring Street Style Collection. For more information visit: www.indola.co.uk Concept Hair / 23

Winter 2021 / Cutting techniques

The Extended Cut

With long hair, it’s easy to make the mistake of thinking it’s all about the styling or the colour. The truth is, cutting skills are just as important when working with long hair as with a super-short look, as these talented hairdressers can testify.

Teri Lowe, stylist The Hair Surgery, Stourbridge

Ryan Humpage, educator, Rush Hair

Brooke Evans, owner Brooke Evans, Ironbridge

With this look the hair cut was really important as I needed it to have a strong structure and a blunt, even length to create an impact for the image.

This look was all about creating movement through the cut, which meant it had to be executed perfectly in order to achieve the expected result. To achieve this movement I deconstructed the longer hair with a razor, holding hair with my fingers, and cutting to the desired length. This method provided a much a softer and less weighted line which moved more freely. By razoring, I removed excess weight within the longer hair, allowing it to be more flexible when styling and not too heavy and dragged down.

It’s so important we take as much time and consideration cutting long hair as we do when colouring.

The model’s hair is actually very fine and shoulder-length, so I added hair extensions to help create the bluntness that I needed. It’s important that you understand the haircutting skills needed to be able to blend extensions with real hair. To achieve this, I used a basic one-length cutting method. I also used a razor to take out weight and maintain balance between the model’s real hair and the extensions. I then created a 70s-inspired winged fringe graduating from short in the middle to longer on the sides.

26 / Concept Hair

I wanted to enhance the shape using a colour, as it was a black and white image, so I used a deep purple to really strengthen the look. Cut and colour worked hand in hand to create a look with real dimension.

For example, on this look it would be pointless putting your colour sectioning together if the hair cut would potentially block all the colour out—a cut can definitely make or break the look. This style comprises a one-length hair cut with a slight face frame on thick hair. We wanted it to remain looking thick but not sit in a triangular shape. For this we cut one length with zero graduation. Then, using point cutting, we added a face frame. Hair from ear to ear and down was sectioned and then sliced to remove bulk and add texture for the full look. This method also gives movement to the hair without leaving chunky layers for a look that is very current.

Winter 2021 / Cutting techniques

Let Lew, Let Lew Hair Design, Evesham, Worcestershire The cut is always a vital part of any hairstyle. For this image, which formed part of my photographic collection Hush, I envisioned a natural shaggy, rock star look. I wanted to create a look that is actually more creative than it first appears. I began with a basic cutting technique which allowed me to over direct all the hair and point cut this above the head. The reason for using this technique was to create maximum volume which would then work with the texture of the hair to create something larger than life. Once I was happy with this technique, I cut in simple layers throughout to give the look another dimension.

It’s so important we take as “much time and consideration cutting long hair as we do when colouring

”

Concept Hair / 27

Winter 2021 / Training

sharing a p4h

Passion4Hair’s Co-founder, Daniel Andersson talks about the power of live education

assion4hair is a learning organisation, with education at the core of what we do.

Last year had many challenges for live education and, while our virtual options have been well received and continue to develop to meet the needs of learners across the UK, we do believe there is no true substitute for hairdressers attending live education. There is something about being in a room together — the energy, the connection — plus certain technical skills can just be taught more effectively in a face-to-face environment. The P4H Academy is a hub of excellence for independent salons and stylists to forge forward a career in this amazing industry. We are excited to be reopening our Milton Keynes Academy 28 / Concept Hair

in 2021 and do what we do best — supporting professional hairdressers. Our academy courses provide training to give you and your career a power boost, there is always room to grow. Our technical and business courses are designed to support your growth, whatever stage in your career you have reached.

Education is “ the bridge between the present and the future

”

LIMITED NUMBERS

So that we can practise social distancing in the academy, we have limited numbers to 12 delegates per class. We do recommend reserving your education to avoid disappointment. You can reserve your place via our website www. p4hpro.com or by contacting our Experience Co-ordinator Milka on milka@passion4hair.com

SCHEDULE

The new class schedule for 2021 can also be found online at www.p4hpro.com

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Winter 2021 / How To

how to create

layers in long hair

From Pivot Point LAB a bespoke VTCT learning resource. This step-by-step takes you through an increased layered form. step 1

PREP When consulting with clients with very long hair, make sure you confirm the final length, as well as where the layers will fall.

This look is cut with increased layers throughout the interior, a convex perimeter and notching and slicing around the face to blend the layers and frame the face.

SECTION: â&#x20AC;˘ Apex to the back of the ear with a slightly curved line, to include more hair in the layering at the sides â&#x20AC;˘ Fringe from the apex to the corner of the eyebrows

step 2

Take a small strand at the apex. Let it fall naturally to create an initial length guide. Check where the shortest lengths fall against the intended perimeter. Release the fringe, take a centre parting, elevate the hair straight up and position your fingers for a length increase from the guide to the front and cut parallel.

30 / Concept Hair

step 3

Work towards one side using the centre parting as a stationary guideline and pivotal partings. Repeat on the other side.

step 4

Take a centre parting from the apex guide to the nape, elevate the hair straight up, positioning your fingers for a rapid length increase and cut towards the bottom of the parting.

Winter 2021 / How To

step 5

Work towards one side using a mobile guideline and pivotal partings. Repeat on the opposite side.

step 6

Move to the side sections, use the last parting from behind the ear as a stationary guideline. Use pivotal partings and the stationary guideline, elevate the hair straight up to cut. Repeat on the opposite side.

step 7

Comb the fringe section forward, with low elevation and direct to the centre, notch a slightly concave line.

step 8

Create a convex perimeter line through the back. Here notching is used to give a softer line.

step 9

Extend a diagonal back line towards the front. From a centre parting over direct the hair forward, using low elevation and slide cut from the corner of the fringe to the perimeter on both sides. Courtesy of Pivot Point International, Inc ÂŠ

finisheD look Concept Hair / 31

The Colour Collection from Bad Apple Hair Hair by: Stephanie Peckmore, Bad Apple Hair Make-up by: Naomi Halliday Styling by: Clare Frith Photography: Tom Goddard

BAD APPLE

Winter 2021 / Look Book

NEW PCC Cool Hues Collection Seamless colour from root to tip Indola PCC Cool Hues is a collection of 4 new shades that deliver gorgeous iridescent results whilst accentuating the skin tone and features. Inspired by natural, earthy cool tones and the need of reconnecting to the roots, the Cool Hues Collection introduces a palette of cool brunette shades with a twist to perfectly underline the dimension of the hair, delivering up to 70% white hair coverage.

8.18

6.18

ASH CHOCOLATE Iridescent cool tone with a hue of embracing warmth

indola.co.uk

– Unrivalled colour performance – Long-lasting colour retention – High vibrancy & shine

6.11

5.11

INTENSE ASH Smoky, strongly nutralising

#Simply Smarter

SALON 54

The Guoco Collection from Salon 54 Hair by: Emma Simmons, Salon 54, Thirsk, North Yorkshire Make-up by: Paula Maxwell Makeup Agency Styling by: Bernard Connolly Photography by: Tony Le Britton

34 / Concept Hair

Inspiration This collection was inspired by the architecture of Singapore â&#x20AC;&#x201D; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a mix of texture and structure, breathing new life into classic styles.

HOOKER & YOUNG

School Yearbook Collection from Hooker & Young Hair by: Sophie Gibson and Jonathan Turner, Hooker & Young Make-up by: Kirsten Baillie Styling by: Clare Frith Photography by: Michael Young

Katie Cook Collection Here is where we will feature outstanding work sent in by readers of Concept Hair. This issue we’re excited to share these vibrant images from Katie Cook, an apprentice at Brooke Evans, Ironbridge. You can see more of her work on Instagram @katiecookhair

KATIE COOK

PORTFOLIO

Winter 2021 / Cordless Tech

Join the Cordless

Revolution

BaByliss Pro on the convenience and performance of its cordless technology

aByliss sent waves through the hairdressing industry in 2019 with the extraordinary launch of the BaByliss 9000 Cordless Straightener, a first of its kind in cordless technology and second to none for impressive heated performance. Following very closely behind, this year the brand has launched two more styling innovations within the cordless family — the Cordless Waving Wand and Curling Tong, using the same groundbreaking Micro-Heating Matrix as seen in the straightener.

1 Here are leading hairdresser and salon owner, Sam Burnett’s top reasons for going cordless

What is ground-breaking about the Cordless Range is the heat distribution. BaByliss have invented a new heating matrix which is formed exactly to the shape of the tool, which means the tools heat the hair much easier and you can make use of lower heat temperatures and still get amazing longlasting results.

www.babyliss.co.uk

As a session stylist, my job takes me all over the world on shoots and shows. What I appreciate about having completely cord-free products is being able to do my job wherever I am without having to rely on a plug socket. This means I can focus on the hair and really push myself when I’m on location.

Bite-size Cordless Info

• 3 NEW Cordless Products: Straightener, Curling Tong and Waving Wand • 3 heat settings for styling on different hair types: 160°, 180° and 200°

Straightener

Waving Wand

38 / Concept Hair

These are great products for your clients to use too. I’m regularly asked by clients how to recreate a professional finish at home. Because there’s no cord, it’s much easier to use on your own hair, especially around the face as there’s more freedom for the tool to move.

• NEW Micro-Heating Matrix ensures consistent long-lasting and effortless results

Curling Tong

Winter 2021 / Careers

What is an art team?

Main image: Sophie Springett

You’ve probably read about art teams a lot while flicking through Concept Hair. But what exactly is the role of an art team and why is being a member such a great experience? We asked four art team members for their insight.

Summer Telford, art director at Rainbow Room International, and art team member Membership of the RRI artistic team is fluid. There are core members, while others drop in and out when required.

Sophie Springett, Toni & Guy artistic director and art team member There are 25+ members in the UK artistic team, then we have international art teams in countries such as Spain, Italy and Australia.

What I bring

My journey

Being attentive and creative. Also, working under pressure brings out the best in me.

I’m passionate about editorial and avant-garde work and have pushed myself in that direction. I’ve taken part in competitions and teach our Beginners course. I also teach editorial style with international art director, Indira Schauwecker.

Why I joined Any stylist wants to get better and progress their career. Learning stagecraft and backstage prep definitely helps when looking after clients in the salon.

The role of the art team Bringing new ideas to our company and inspiring the rest of the team by bringing new trends and ideas to our industry.

My highlights Our annual company congress, which includes a huge art team show. Working backstage at events, including T in The Park. Assisting on collections for the British Hairdressing Awards.

40 / Concept Hair

The attraction Training at our London academy really opened my eyes to what the industry offers – working at fashion weeks, travelling the world, working in the theatre or on photoshoots.

The role of the art team It’s a creative hub of the best in the industry, supporting and sharing the most innovative ideas.

What I love most I thrive in a team environment, and love sharing ideas. I also love the people I work with, having fun together as well as working hard.

Winter 2021 / Careers

Jake Unger, HOB Salons education director and art team member There’s five of us in the HOB Academy art team, each bringing different experiences and skills.

My skills I am a cutter at heart, but I have also developed my dressing skills over the years. However, one of my biggest strengths in this team is that I have been with the company for almost 15 years, so this gives me a great understanding of the brand heritage as well a clear vision to where we want to be in the future.

THE ATTRACTION When I was training, I was fortunate enough to be the academy assistant, which meant that I would help with shows, seminars and shoots. I always had a fascination with working on shows and shoots, so I wanted that to be my main role.

The role of the art team The role of the HOB artistic team is to profile and endorse the HOB brand. It’s our job to inspire our internal staff in our salons across London, as well as educate around the world.

The best bits I have travelled the world taking part in shows in Japan, Los Angeles and Brazil, to name but a few. I’ve helped create countless collections throughout the years for the British Hairdressing Awards, as well as our salon collections, which is something that I am very proud of.

The mix Like a good football team, if you have a team full of strikers or a team full of defenders it will never be a success. It’s all about having the right cohesion throughout, to bring the best out in each other. It’s great to have a team with many different talents all pushing for the same common goal.

Lara Tree, art director and art team member at Electric The Electric art team is a collective of people that are passionate about driving creativity and sharing knowledge through well-thought-out education.

The role of the art team To show and promote the creative profile of the brand, and to share its education philosophy internally and externally.

My journey I have been part of the Electric Art Team for about two years. I began by assisting on shoots and shows and now have built up to being involved in education, travel and showing my work to the whole Electric Family and beyond. I have always worked really hard in the salon and progressed to an art director position in the Electric Brighton salon but wanted more. The first step was to present in the Electric Sessions events. Electric founder, Mark Woolley helped me establish confident presenting skills and I developed strength on stage.

My highlights I’ve been involved in shows for London Fashion Week, presenting cutting, colour and style looks for Electric’s quarterly Electric Session events and presenting on stages at Salon International. I have also had the chance to travel to America on a few occasions to take part in shows and lead hands-on cutting and styling education classes.

Career Enhancing Being part of an art team is good for my career because it keeps me inspired and informed in what is going on not only in the hair industry, but also in the fashion and lifestyle industries. I always have new ideas to share with my clients and they love hearing about my session work experiences and travels.

How it’s done My advice would be, just ask to get involved in the things you’re most interested in and believe in yourself. Do not be afraid to ask for advice or make mistakes, that is how we learn.

Concept Hair / 41

Winter 2021 / How To

how to create

Cloud Nine’s

Fiercely Voluminous LOOK Take even the limpest locks and turn them into gorgeous voluminous layers with this easy-to-follow step-by-step guide from CLOUD NINE.

PREP First, spray the hair generously with CLOUD NINE’s Magical Quick Dry Potion and blow dry in using the Airshot hairdryer. This will help save drying time and bring out your shine. The Magical Quick Dry Potion is a powerful little bottle filled with heat protection, frizz and flyaway prevention. It also conditions hair for healthier, stronger, shinier hair every time you style.

STEP 1 Section the hair, then using CLOUD NINE’s Curling Wand with Kinder Styling Technology, wrap each section of the hair round the barrel of the Wand and hold for a few seconds. Scrunch the curl in the palm of your hand to help cool and set in place. Experience an instant curl crush with the Wand made for all kinds of curls from large bouncy curls to soft waves.

STEP 2 Continue curling the hair away from the face so the curls set in the same direction. This will give you those glam waves when styled!

an instant curl crush with “theExperience Wand made for all kinds of curls ”

42 / Concept Hair

Winter 2021 / How To

Next, use CLOUD NINE’s luxury Boar Bristle Dressing Brush or Texture Comb and gently start brushing though the hair to tease the curls out. The luxury Boar Bristle Dressing Brush has been designed to be kinder to the hair and scalp so you can dress your look without worrying about excess breakage. The wide teeth of the luxury Texture Comb help to create volume and texture to you style while softening curls for a lived-in look.

FINISH Use a light-weight finishing spray to set you look Share your take on this look using

#cloudnineprofessional @cloudninec9 ARNE

2021

E YE

#cloudnineprofessional

STEP 3

finished LOOK

Exclusive student offers CLOUD NINE, proud sponsors of Concept Hair Learner of the Year, is offering students exclusive discounts. For more information contact the Trade Team on (0845) 200 3563 . Concept Hair / 43

Winter 2021 / How To

The Art of Grey Blending

In partnership with Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals UK&I Colour Ambassador

BEFORE

COLOUR FORMULAS

For grey coverage that is beautifully blended for a stunningly natural looking finish, Wella Professionals grey blending service, using Color Touch, is the perfect solution.

HOT TIP During the consultation be sure to ask lifestyle questions and analyse skin tone

This technique is the perfect way â&#x20AC;&#x153; to begin the grey blending journey â&#x20AC;?

Formula 1: 30g Blondorplex + 45ml 6% Welloxon Perfect Developer

Formula 2: 20g 12/11 Koleston Perfect Special Blonde + 40ml 9% Welloxon Perfect Developer. Apply to natural hair only

Formula 3: Toner: Color Touch 7/97 + 1.9% Color Touch Emulsion

Formula 4: Toner Color Touch 8/71 + 1.9% Color Touch Emulsion

Formula 5: Toner: Color Touch 9/97 + 1.9% Color Touch Emulsion

Develop for up to 20 minutes. Rinse the hair until the water runs clear. Complete the service with a System Professional Color Save Emulsion. 44 / Concept Hair

Section the hair Apply formula 1 + 2, alternating the applications, in diagonal back sections, working around the head shape in a halo section. Make sure you use formula 1 around the hair line in very fine weaves. Develop for up to 50 minutes using no heat.

STEP 6 Complete the look with a Luxe blow dry using a bristle brush.

@WellaHairUKI

STEP 3 Rinse, and apply Wellaplex No2 Bond Stabilizer for 10 minutes. Rinse and shampoo the hair using System Professional Luxe Oil shampoo. Next, apply Blondor Seal & Care for five minutes. This will add brilliant shine and help maintain the colour.

STEP 4 Toning: By using three colours you are able to gradate the colour, creating more depth around the crown area and then working towards a lighter shade around the face. Apply formula 3 to section A. Apply formula 4 to section B. Apply formula 5 to section C.

finished LOOK

STEP 5

STEPS 1 & 2

josh davies Four Ways to Wow with Clippers

OTH DAVIES, MASTER BARBER AND OWNER OF SAVILLS BARBERS IN SHEFFIELD, GIVES THE LOWDOWN ON THE TECHNIQUES CLIPPERS WERE MADE FOR.

“TRY USING YOUR CLIPPERS INSTEAD”

www.savillsbarbers.com

THE FADE

CLIPPER/SCISSOR COMBO

When zero/skin fading always start with a base line using the zero setting on your clippers to work from. The line position will depend on the density of the hair and head shape. Once the base line has been created, simply work down using your guards. Work through number 3, number 2, number 1.5, number 1, and finally number 0.5. Always work in parallel lines, matching your base line until the line disappears.

This technique is ideal for the client who prefers more scalp coverage and normally requests a scissor cut. Generally, these clients want to keep approximately one to two inches in length on the back and sides.

TEXTURED LONG LAYERS To create texture on long layers or remove thickness, I use the Wahl Chrome styler with the “All-In-One blade” attachment. Start with the longest setting and pull a one-inch traveling horizontal section of hair starting from the nape. Apply a light pressure from the mid-length and pull through to the ends of the hair. This works like a texturising scissor, peeling equal parts of the hair and removing weight.

“THIS TECHNIQUE IS IDEAL FOR THE CLIENT WHO PREFERS MORE SCALP COVERAGE”

Use a larger guard – number 6 to 8, depending on the length required. Once you have removed the bulk with the clipper and guard, use your scissors to refine the ends of the hair and create a softer finish. This will result in a softer scissor finish haircut and your client will always have a consistent length. CURLY HAIR When hair is curly and wraps around your fingers while club cutting the top section, it becomes difficult to cut. You risk cutting yourself as well as the hair. Try using your clippers instead. This allows you to easily cut through the hair without causing any damage to your fingers.

Concept Hair / 45

Winter 2021 / Cutting Techniques

Charlie cullen Making the Blade

HARLIE CULLEN, OF CHARLIE CULLEN EDUCATION AT JOE AND CO, LONDON LOOKS AT HOW VERSATILE SCISSORS CAN BE AND FIVE KEY TECHNIQUES YOU CAN USE TO CREATE AN EXPERT FINISH.

KEY TECHNIQUES

01 02

When Point cutting the scissors need to be almost parallel to the hair when cutting, which will result in a much softer cutting line. The deeper the scissor goes into the hair, the softer the result. When cutting scissor over comb, make sure the bottom blade controlled by your fingers is stationary and the blade controlled by your thumb is the only one to open and close. This results in a clean finish with no lines or scissor marks.

The speed of the scissors should be faster than the movement of the comb, allowing enough time for the blades to close then open again for the next area above.

“TWIST CUTTING CAN BE A GREAT WAY TO REMOVE WEIGHT”

On precision shapes it’s always best to clean the perimeter line when dry by slightly tilting the head in the opposite direction, combing the hair into its natural fall and very shallow point cutting the perimeter edge. This gives a sharp line with less graduation

Twist cutting can be a great way to remove weight with curly hair as you create no damage to the cuticle (compared to slicing.) Simply take a wet inch-squared section, twist all the way from root to tip, place scissors three quarters of way down towards the tip and squeeze the blades – don’t shut them completely — to seamlessly remove weight while enhancing curl.

“THE DEEPER THE SCISSOR GOES INTO THE HAIR, THE SOFTER THE RESULT”

www.charliecullen.co.uk 46 / Concept Hair

Winter 2021 / Scissor Care

bettertons Invest in your blades

BUYING YOUR FIRST PAIR OF SCISSORS IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT DECISIONS YOU WILL MAKE DURING YOUR HAIRDRESSING CAREER. WE ASKED SCISSOR EXPERT BETTERTONS WHY IT’S WORTH INVESTING AND WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING YOUR FIRST PAIR OF SCISSORS.

AMA Apex

AMA Skera

Joewell New Era Offset

“DON’T GO ON LOOKS ALONE!”

“SCISSORS MADE FROM COBALT ARE NOT MAGNETIC”

we would suggest opting for a length of between 5” to 6”, as these will be suitable for all of your training needs. Built to last

Quality Counts

Size does matter

Over time, all blades will start to lose their sharp edge. This will be noticeable because instead of the hair being cut cleanly, you will start to feel the blades bending the hair. This will affect the quality of your cut, and leave your client with damaged ends. If this is the case you need to send your scissors to be sharpened. How quickly a blade starts to go blunt depends on the amount of use and the quality of the scissor.

Different scissor lengths are designed to suit different cutting techniques. Longer scissor lengths of between 6” to 8” are more suited for scissorover-comb work, making it easier to cut in a straight line with less closures of the blade tips. Shorter scissors of 4.5” to 5.5” are generally more suited to cutting hair as you hold sections in your hand and for precision work. If you are buying just one pair of scissors at the start of your training,

If you want a pair of blades that will last, always investigate what a pair of scissors is made from. Joewell uses either a high-grade Supreme stainless alloy or a cobalt-based alloy in the manufacture of its scissors and blades are hand-sharpened. Scissors made using a cobalt alloy will offer you far greater resistance to wear and tear than a lower-grade steel, which means they also last much longer.

T0P TIP Always try a pair of scissors before you buy them to make sure they feel right in your hand.

For more information visit: gebetterton.co.uk Concept Hair / 47

Winter 2021 / Superstar Salons

superstar salons

Could one of these salons offer the next step in your career?

aking the next step in your exciting career may well involve working for a salon. There are thousands of fantastic salons across the UK, but what do they offer their teams and how will they help you become the best hairdresser you can be? We asked a selection of top salons and salon groups what makes them great places to work.

M A R K D AV I D , S t o c k b r i d g e , E d i n b u r g h

e pride ourselves on offering a unique working environment. The salon is incredibly relaxed and team members are treated with respect and highly appreciated.

ON-GOING EDUCATION We hold weekly meetings and training sessions as a team where I take staff through different techniques and ideas that they can translate into their work. Apprentices get one-on-one training throughout the week. We are constantly taking advantage of the online training

seminars that our professional product brands offer.

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so important for us to always provide support to the team and a clear path where they can progress up the career ladder and become better stylists. Appropriate support and guidance are given and meetings are put in place to chat to the stylists about their goals and where they want to go. If they need to work on a certain skill, appropriate learning and training is discussed and provided.

MOTIVATION Employees are left to do their job with freedom and trust, but with myself always there should they need any help or advice. When a team member has done something fantastic, bonuses and credit are always given.

WHAT WE LOOK FOR Individuals who are flexible, extremely passionate and have a love for their craft and for people.

Mark McCarthy, Owner of MARKDAVID 48 / Concept Hair

Winter 2021 / Superstar Salons

Z o o l o g y , Wa n s t e a d , E a s t L o n d o n

veryone at Zoology has a great work ethic and really supports each other. The team are like a family.

door’ policy. We believe this allows progression from apprentice to stylist in the best way.

ON-GOING EDUCATION

We hold regular team meeting where everyone gets to have their say and bounce ideas off of each other.

We have strong relationships with professional brands and educational platforms that allow all team members to attend training sessions outside of the salon, or virtually. We’ve also been in partnership with a top college for over 10 years, building a successful apprenticeship programme. I also train the team personally every week.

MOTIVATION

The team are also offered invaluable opportunities to participate in hairdressing competitions that can really enhance their portfolio.

WHAT WE LOOK FOR People with a passion for hair, the drive to meet client expectations and who are excellent team players.

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Zoology sets realistic goals for team members and operates with an ‘open

Mark Mountney, Founder and Director, Zoology

Chapter One Hair Spa, Midlothian, Scotland

hapter One Hair Spa is a small salon group with sites in Newtongrange, Eskbank and Haddington. Over the years, the group has gained a reputation for its exceptionally high standards, outstanding customer care and impeccable attention to detail.

ON-GOING TRAINING

MOTIVATION We have a clear salary structure for the various positions within the salon. We also offer incredible experiences outside the salon – we’ve taken our team on trips to London, Barcelona, and Las Vegas, for example. We also use the Salonspy programme

to obtain feedback from clients and share this with the team – positive feedback is great for boosting morale.

WHAT WE LOOK FOR Someone that will fit right in and contribute something unique to the team. It’s important they show passion, creativity, and a good work ethic.

We work closely with Redken who offer the remote L’Oréal Access programme. Each team member has dedicated time set aside each week to undertake as many courses as they like.

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Chapter One was established eight years ago and within that time we’ve had four apprentices work their way right up to senior stylist level and they’re still with us today, motivating others and showing them what is possible. Natalie Hamilton, Co-owner, Chapter One Hair Spa Concept Hair / 49

Winter 2021 / Business Skills

Perfect Colour Consultation

Jordanna Cobella is Creative Director of Cobella salon in London’s Kensington. She is also a craft expert for Wella Professionals. Here she shares her top five tips for delivering the ultimate client colour consultation.

TIP 1

Get to really know your client. Ask them about what they do, take note of what they are wearing, their make-up, what their hair is like now. Then go in with the questions — ‘what do you love about your hair and what do you not love about it?’ The consultation should be a collaboration rather than just advice from you.

TIP 2

Use a mood board to help your client decide on their colour change. Try and include lifestyle, fashion, interior design and food imagery in the mood boards so that you are not just restricted to hair pictures. You can also use swatches from paint shops and colour houses. This will help get them excited about the journey ahead.

Jordannealla Cob

TIP 3 Talk colour using food examples. You can refer to biscuit blonde, honeycomb caramel or iced coffee brunette, for example. It’s a great way of discussing tones and colour palettes. This is your opportunity to shine as a hairdresser and show the true artistry of colouring. Make the consultation as bespoke as possible and this will create client loyalty.

4 TIP 4

Make sure you discuss any maintenance your client will need to do at home in order to upkeep their new colour. Sharing this responsibility will help in the journey ahead for the client and for you.

TIP 5

Wrap everything up and discuss the actual finish of the hair, whether it will be matte, gloss, sheer or full saturations. This will help you make the right product choices. If you follow these steps and show your client how excited you are, by now she should be feeling really relaxed. If she’s not, go back to step one!

Hear even more about Jordanna’s take on the colour consultation in our exclusive video…

Winter 2021 / Events

Wella Xposure joins TrendVision award

The leading competition for hairdressing students now offers even greater exposure for talented learners.

WHY TAKE PART

Why wouldn’t you? There’s so much to be gained. Give it your all and experience the thrill of entering an industry competition. Learn new skills, develop your craft, raise your profile through social media and get exposed to new ideas and ways of thinking! posure has been the most exciting competition for hairdressing students for 20 years. But in 2021 the stakes will get even higher, as Xposure becomes part of the prestigious TrendVision Award.

Wella’s Xposure has always offered hairdressing students an incredible platform — a chance to shine and gain industry recognition at the very start of their career. Now that the competition is a category within the TrendVision Award, student hairdressers will get the chance to showcase their skills and passion for incredible hair colour along with some of the brightest stars in hairdressing. Those competitors who make it through to the TrendVision Award Grand Final in London will also get to experience one of the most exciting nights in the hairdressing calendar and share in the incredible buzz of competition hairdressing on a whole new level.

THE PRIZES > An exclusive behind-the-scenes experience at a Wella event. > A bespoke Wella Education Programme. > A hairdressing tool kit. > A coveted TrendVision Award Xposure category trophy. > A chance for your college/ academy to win bespoke education.

KEY DATES Photographic entries open:

08 marc h 2021 Photographic entries close:

enter in 3 easy steps 1. CHOOSE YOUR CATEGORY 2. SELECT YOUR BEFORE & AFTER IMAGE A finished look you have created in the last 12 months. 3. POST IT ON INSTAGRAM

20 apr il 2021 UK and Ireland TrendVision Grand Final:

11 O cto b er 2021, The Roundhouse, London

Using the category #hashtag and tagging @WellaHairUKI

Concept Hair / 51

Winter 2021 / Exercises

exercises

VTCT provides Pivot Point LAB, an online learning platform, to support its Hair & Beauty qualifications. The resources available in LAB help you develop your skills and knowledge and prepare for qualification assessments. Learn through interactive lessons, quizzes, videos and more. Ask your training provider if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re using LAB and get started today!

If you would like to find out more about how one of VTCTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s courses could help further your career, check out the website: www.vtct.org.uk

Vocational Training Charitable Trust is a specialist awarding organisation offering vocational and technical qualifications in a range of service sectors. These exercises have been created using VTCT and Pivot Point industry expertise to test your knowledge on client consultation, cutting with clippers, and cutting long hair.

Discover more about Pivot Point Education at www.pivotpoint.co.uk/

Images courtesy of Pivot Point International

52 / Concept Hair

Winter 2021 / Exercises

THE CLIENT CONSULTATION Answer the following true or false questions.

Advice provided as part of a consultation service should include home hair care and additional services to enhance the look.

A client's lifestyle and build should be considered as part of a cut and Q2 style consultation.

A client presenting with an undiagnosed hair loss condition should be Q3 referred to a Pharmacist.

To build trust with the client, it is essential for the stylist or barber to Q4 ensure their recommendations are personalised to the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individual requirements.

As part of the consultation, it is important to carry out tests to help Q5 prevent hair and skin damage, and to check the desired results.

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

Image courtesy of Pivot Point International

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 53

Winter 2021 / Exercises

BARBERING â&#x20AC;&#x201D; CUTTING WITH CLIPPERS Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.

Which one of the following best describes how clippers should be maintained?

Clean regularly and store in a UV Cabinet

Up and down

Check that blades are aligned and oiled weekly

To the left only

After use, remove hair and use clipper spray

To the right only

Oil after use and keep in a storage box

From side to side

Which one of the following identifies the length increase of each clipper attachment?

12 mm

9 mm

Ans.

Was it cuts the hair, the movable blade of the clippers moves:

When fading, what affects how seamless the progression within the shade portion of the look will be?

The amount of blending done between and within zones

The amount of transparency within the area

The length of the hair within the area

The amount of weight left in the area

Ans.

6 mm

3 mm Image courtesy of Pivot Point International

Which of the following statements is true about the clipper-over-comb technique?

Quickly removes large amounts of thick or bulky hair

Is not used to cut hair with tightly curled textures

Is used in small, tight areas

Slowly cuts longer lengths

Ans.

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 54 / Concept Hair

Winter 2021 / Exercises

CUTTING LONG HAIR Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.

When cutting a long graduated form, the use of a wide-tooth comb should be considered when the hair is:

Ans.

Which one of the following techniques is performed by gliding the scissors along the surface of the hair?

Fine

End tapering

Course

Point cutting

Curly

Slicing

Straight

Free-hand

Which one of the following distributions should be used when a rapid length increase is required?

Ans.

When horizontal partings are used to cut long layers, the haircut should be cross-checked using:

Natural

Vertical partings

Shifted

Pivotal partings

Directional

Diagonal partings

Perpendicular

Overdirected partings

Which one of the following is the most important reason for keeping the hair damp throughout the cutting process?

To look professional

To maintain even tension

To see growth patterns

To see the shape being created

Ans.

Image courtesy of Pivot Point International

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 55

I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

cope

SUPPORTING HAIR AND BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS AND THEIR CHILDREN

Together we can help make a difference supporting terminal illness, domestic abuse, homelessness, poverty, mental health, and financial hardship Thanks to our charity sponsors

Hairandbeautycharity.org | Registered Charity in England & Wales No: 1166298

A R NE

Winter 2021 / Learner of the Month

E MON

Concept Hair Learner of the Month celebrates hairdressing and barbering students and apprentices who have gone that extra mile.

he award, which is open to all full-time learners and apprentices, aims to celebrate the amazing work that upcoming talent in the industry is producing. There is a prize usually worth £100+ for the winning hairdresser or barber each month – and you will feature in our online Hall of Fame and in the next issue of Concept Hair!

oct 2020 winner

nov 2020 winner

dec 2020 winner

Polished HQ

KH Hair

The Hair Hut

Aimee Rodley

Aimee is a Level 2 apprentice at Polished HQ in Leeds and is studying at Westrow Academy. As our October winner, she won a fantastic ghd helios hairdryer. Aimee, 17, said: “I am so proud of myself for winning the award. I worked so hard for it and I am so, so happy!” Aimee says her dream is to one day open her own salon or even create her own products and styling equipment.

#ConceptHairLOTM

Asha Lahel

Asha won a prize bundle worth £100 from Pro Hair Tape as our November winner. Asha is currently working towards her Level 3 in hairdressing at East Midlands-based salon group, KH Hair. Asha loves working on the salon floor with clients and has a particular passion for colour. She has lots of goals she would like to achieve in her career. Asha told us: “I’m working towards taking part in competitions such as TrendVision, plus I’d also like to be involved in photoshoots and one day have my own salon!”

Elsie Bennetts

Elsie won a set of professional brushes from Kent Brushes as our December Learner of the Month. Elsie joined the hair industry three years ago at the age of 16, gaining her level 2 qualification at Truro college. She is now working towards her level 3 while working in a busy salon. Asked what she loves most about her job, Elsie tod us: “I love finishing a client's hair and knowing that they love what I've done. I enjoy the whole process from start to finish — especially when colouring — but it's so nice to make people feel good about themselves and feel happy with their hair.” Concept Hair / 57

Concept Hair Magazine Winter 2021 issue

Articles inside

Business Skills — Delivering a Great Colour Consultation

Superstar Salons – Great Places to Work

Learner of the Month

Concept Barbering — Clipper and Scissor Techniques

Bettertons —Why it’s Worth Investing in Scissors

Wella Professionals on Creating the Perfect Grey Blend

What is an Art Team?

Look Book — Salon 54

Look Book — Hooker & Young

Look Book — Bad Apple

Portfolio — Readers’ Work

Passion4Hair – Face-toFace education

Fit for Learning — Food for Thought

Hot Technology

Indola — New Cool Hues