WINTER 2022
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editor’s word hello!
W
elcome to the winter 2022 issue of Concept Hair Magazine!
It’s a brand-new year and a great time to recharge and make those positive changes that will help keep you focused and motivated. On pages 13-15 we offer some tips on how to maintain your mojo, including advice on living in the moment, plus an insight into how several top hairdressers keep themselves motivated. This issue is also packed with all the usual interviews, trend predictions and business know-how that we know you love. Have a great 2022! We’ll be with you every step of the way.
Matthew Batham
Editor’s Word / Winter 2022
contents
features
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01 EDITOR’S WORD 02 NEWS 04 new PRODUCTS 06 20 THINGS I LOVE 07 WELLA XPOSURE 08 WINTER COLOUR TRENDS 10 LEARNER OF THE YEAR 2022 12 FIGHT THE FRIZZ 13 stay MOTIVATED!
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16 DON’T PANIC — MISTAKES CAN BE FIXED 18 SCHOOL SPOTLIGHT AWARD
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20 INTERVIEW WITH ANNE VECK 23 MANIC PANIC GET CREATIVE
Editor
25 PRO HAIR TAPE www.concepthairmag.co.uk
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26 LOOK BOOK — THE LATEST COLLECTIONS 34 Behind the Scenes with Brooks & Brooks 36 STEP-BY-STEP LOW FADE LOOK FROM PIVOT POINT LAB
EDITOR: MATTHEW BATHAM
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PRINTER:
38 MEN’S HAIR TRENDS
Concept Hair Magazine is published by
or any opinions or advice given therein. This for professional advice on a particular matter. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Concept Hair Magazine only upon SNG Publishing Ltd standard terms of advertising.
Stephens & George, Wales
42 GENDER-NEUTRAL PRICING 44 RUNNING A BUSY COLUMN 45 CAUSES OF HAIR LOSS WITH PASSION4HAIR 46 SUPERSTAR SALONS 48 LECTURER CORNER – ABLE FROM ANDREW BARTON 49 EXERCISES 53 LEARNER OF THE MONTH
GENERAL ENQUIRIES
To subscribe to Concept Hair Magazine call 0121 606 3016 or subscribe online at www.concepthairmag.co.uk © SNG Publishing Ltd, 2022
38 Concept Hair / 01
Winter 2022 / News
LATEST news
L’Oréal Colour Trophy Celebrates 65 Years Image credit: Rush Hair
Monday 13 September 2021 saw the L’Oréal Colour Trophy 65th Grand Final take place at Battersea Evolution, London. The virtual event was a stunning mix of pre-recorded content and live shows, with thousands watching from their homes and salons.
Guests witnessed the central stage come alive with breath-taking lighting, enthralling stage effects, chest thumping music and mesmerising hairdressing talent, all presented by celebrity host, TV and Radio presenter Vick Hope. Vick took the audience on an exciting hair-inspired journey ending with the announcement of this year’s winners. Lorraine Hume Hairdressing, Randalstown was announced as the overall winner of the UK L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award 2021. And for Ireland, Wildflower, Dublin secured the top spot. Visit www.concepthairmag.co.uk for details of all the winners and shows.
Robert Eaton Named British Hairdresser of the Year Robert Eaton, a regular contributor to Concept Hair Magazine, was named British Hairdresser of the Year at a glittering ceremony held on 29 November 2021 at London’s prestigious Grosvenor House hotel. Robert was one of 10 nominees for the prestigious title, recognised around the world as the ultimate hairdressing accolade. The British Hairdressing Awards also saw talent recognised in a number of regional and specialist categories, including Newcomer of the Year, which was won by an ecstatic, Abbie Johnson, from Mark Leeson in Mansfield.
Wella TrendVision Award The Wella TrendVision Award UK & Ireland 2021 winners were announced at the live Grand Final event, which took place at London’s iconic Roundhouse in Camden Town. More than 700 guests joined the event live, with an equal number joining digitally on the evening, to celebrate the many talents who made it to the final stage of this incredible competition. The night was hosted by broadcaster and style icon, Fearne Cotton, who was joined by Wella’s legendary artist, Patrick Cameron. As well as recognising all the winners, the night saw stunning shows by leading industry names, including Robert Eaton, HOB Salons and D&J Ambrose. Visit www.concepthairmag.co.uk for more on all the winners and shows.
02 / Concept Hair
News / Winter 2022
Introducing the Career Styler
November 2021 saw the launch of Concept Hair’s Career Styler — a guide to everything that makes hairdressing such an inspirational and rewarding career. The glossy publication was sent out to colleges and schools across the UK and featured inspirational interviews from some of hairdressings leading lights. The Career Styler showcases just how varied a job hairdressing can be, with opportunities to branch out into session styling, go freelance, progress to managing a salon, specialise in barbering or colour or become a hairdressing educator.
let’s get social
join the party!
Concept Hair is here for you 24/7 via our social media channels. You can find us on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook, YouTube, Twitter and Linkedin. If you haven’t already visited us, come on over and join the party! Through our social media platforms, we’ll keep you updated on all the major industry trends, giving you exclusive access to some great giveaways. We’re always offering you amazing prizes from some of the biggest brands in hairdressing. All of our exclusive giveaways are available through our Instagram channel with recent prizes including Hot Tools Professional hairdryers, Wahl Super Taper clippers and backpacks from Indola filled with some of their latest products. Instagram is also your ticket to Concept Hair’s Learner of the Month competition. Our fabulous sponsors offer great prizes, you just need to dazzle our judges with your inspirational hair work.
If you haven’t seen your copy of the Career Styler yet, speak to your tutor!
Across our stories we bring you live coverage of some of the biggest events in the industry, including L’Oréal Colour Trophy, Wella TrendVision Award, and the British Hairdressing Awards — you’ll feel like you’re actually there!
You can read a virtual edition of the Career Styler on our website: www.concepthairmag.co.uk
For fun videos, bite-sized education and hair transformations head over to TikTok. We’ll keep you entertained and informed with exclusive content, sharing videos from hair professionals from across the world. We can’t wait to meet and interact with you and share some incredible content.
Colour Education with a Difference
Chaulk, the brandneutral colour education company, has launched the Chaulk Mentor scheme.
14,500 F O L L O W E R S
The online education initiative includes structured content available on demand, as well as monthly Zoom sessions with Chaulk educators. Ideal for students wanting to supplement their college education or apprentices looking for a new approach to colour education, Chaulk covers all areas of colour, including colour choice, consultation, techniques and client service — all for a monthly fee of £47. You can find out more at www.chaulk.co.uk
www.concepthairmag.co.uk
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Concept Hair / 03
Winter 2022 / New Products
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HOT TOOLS PRO ARTIST BLACK GOLD CURLBAR SET
Hot Tools has introduced the Pro Artist Black Gold CurlBar Set, designed to provide stylists and salons with unlimited styling options from one handy, compact unit. The set features four interchangeable barrels for versatile styling.
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https://uk.hottools.com
INDOLA ACT NOW! PURIFY SHAMPOO
The ACT NOW! collection from Indola has been extended with the addition of Purify Shampoo, featuring a vegan formula that cleanses and detoxifies air-polluted hair. The product also removes any unwanted product residues for clean, shiny hair. www.indola.co.uk
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ALTERNA CAVIAR MOISTURE INTENSIVE CERAMIDE SHOTS
Alterna Haircare has launched Caviar Moisture Intensive Ceramide Shots — single-dose biodegradable serum capsules delivering luxuriously healthy, hydrated hair. The potent serum in each capsule provides total flexibility, making it easy for clients to achieve hair that is stronger, softer, and easier to manage at home or on-the-go. www.alternahaircare.eu
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BUMBLE AND BUMBLE HAIRDRESSER’S INVISIBLE OIL ULTRA RICH
Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Ultra Rich from Bumble and bumble is a threepiece regime designed to deliver hydration to the driest hair. The skincare-inspired collection includes a colour-safe and sulphate-free Ultra Rich Shampoo and Conditioner alongside a multi-tasking Hyaluronic Treatment Lotion containing the Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil signature six-oil blend. www.bumbleandbumble.co.uk
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FUDGE PROFESSIONAL ALL BLONDE COLOUR BOOST SHAMPOO
what’s new We round up some of the latest products to hit the hairdressing scene.
JOICO LUMISHINE LUMI10
LumiShine LUMI10 is a professional permanent hair colour from Joico, formulated with the Quick Coverage System to deliver 100% grey coverage in just 10 minutes while also achieving up to two times the shine. www.joico.eu
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OSMO CHROMAPLEX AFTERCARE KIT
The new OSMO Chromaplex Aftercare Kit further improves the condition of hair following a professional colour appointment, while helping to prevent future damage. Each kit contains Bond Sustainer, Bond Shampoo and Bond Conditioner. www.osmo.uk.com
04 / Concept Hair
For blonde hair that needs a bit of a colour lift, the new All Blonde range from Fudge Professional offers sulphate-free Boost Shampoo. The product is designed to refresh and lift blonde colour by depositing blonde pigments for visibly lighter, brighter hair in just two weeks. https://uk.fudgeprofessional.com
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L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS CHROMA CRÉMES
New from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, Chroma Crémes are available in purple and blue variants, designed to neutralise yellow tones in blonde hair and orange tones in brown hair, respectively. The pigmented formulas target the hair evenly from root to tip. www.lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Winter 2022 / 20 Things I Love
20 things i
love
Charlene Malcolm is a creative hairdresser with a passion for textured hair. She works at the Francesco Group salon in Wolverhampton. Who has been your main hairdress
ing mentor? Michelle Thompson, educator and textured hair specialist at Francesco Grou p. She’s so knowledgeable and talented when it comes to textured hair.
Favourite colour brand?
L’Oréal Professionnel Paris
Colour, cut or style? All of the above!
Favourite relaxing thing to do? Spending time with my son, being a mum.
Creative directors. I love how they think outside the box with hair.
A song you will never tire of? Robin S - Show Me Love – it’s a timeless classic.
Career highlight to dat e? Working with an all-bla ck creative team on a shoot and content for the first Black Issue of Tribu-te magazine, whi ch was published in Summer 2021.
Favourite hair trend? I love the bob, whethe r it’s short/long, graduated, descendin g, asymmetric or one length, curly or straight.
Favourite food? flavour and spice. Caribbean — it’s full of
Favourite celebrity hair colour? Demi Lovato’s pink pixie.
? Favourite city etty city, pr a ch London. It’s su den gems. hid of s lot th wi
Any creative ambitions? I would love to work mo re with vivid colours. I am always wor king on my photography and soc ial media skills.
had to overcome to Biggest fear you have ? succeed in your career ns due to atio ect exp h hig nts’ Managing clie dia. me ial soc on n what they have see
@charhair_
CHARLENE MALCOLM 06 / Concept Hair
essing? Best thing about hairdr hair types, nt ere diff with g rkin Wo textures and products.
What inspires you?
n?
sio Most treasured posses My son, he is my world!
e ever had? Worst haircut you hav a bad haircut. had not I’m happy to say, I’ve
Celebrity you would mos t like to meet? Rihanna! Her style is flaw less.
Starter or dessert? Both! I am such a foodie.
Styling product you couldn’t live Avlon Hair Milk.
without?
Favourite colouring tec hnique? Freehand balayage. I love being able to do bespoke colour pla cement for each individual client.
Advertorial / Wella Xposure / Winter 2022
Talent Exposed
TrendVision Award XPOSURE Categories celebrate the talents of hairdressing college students and apprentices, offering incredible opportunities to winners and finalists.
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n 2021 XPOSURE joined TrendVision Award, offering students even more potential for industry recognition, as they celebrated their achievement at the TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final, held at London's Roundhouse - Wella Professionals major event, which featured hair shows by the industry's finest as well as a line-up of coveted awards. For 2021, Wella have made it available to watch the exclusive Artist shows at education.wella.com - make sure to check these out.
This year's two XPOSURE winners received a tailored development programme from Wella, professional toolkit and a trophy that they collected in front of hundreds of guests.
XPOSURE CREATIVE COLOUR WINNER
XPOSURE COLOUR THE CUT WINNER
Rebekah Daly, Crow Street Collective, Dublin
Sharon Robertson, South Lanarkshire College
“Being part of the TrendVision Award was very exciting. I was extremely nervous, but they were all good nerves. Having been in lockdown I felt so lucky and privileged to get to experience the TrendVision Award journey along with other like-minded people who love what they do. It is so inspiring.
“The excitement from all competitors was tremendous. We drew strength from each other and really supported one another. Then the next thing we knew it was 6.30pm and we were ready to go to the cocktail reception which was like looking at the hairdressing hall of fame. I can remember telling my lecturer, Kirstie: ‘If I forget to say later, I have had the best night of my life.’
“The competition has boosted my confidence in myself and my work so much. Seeing other amazing hairdressers just like me who love what they do, and how they inspire others to go as far as they can, is so great. Working and training alongside industry icons has opened my eyes to a career I felt was out of reach for me. But in fact, I'm now one step closer, thanks to this experience.”
@rebekahdaly_csc
“Words can’t describe how it felt, to walk down the catwalk to the cheers of the room, it was amazing, it felt like my whole life had led to that moment — that 30 seconds of knowing I had worked and earned my place on that stage made me feel so proud of myself.”
@hair_by_sharon_at_unique
Rebekah Daly
Sharon Robertson
Head to www.wella.co.uk/trendvision to see the Winners’ Gallery and look out for details of TrendVision Award 2022.
Concept Hair / 07
Winter 2022 / Colour Trends
Colour Contrast
Colour trends for winter 2022 are diverse, from strong graphic placement to full-on gorgeous grey. We asked three top colourists for their take on this season’s must-have looks.
THE MONEY PIECE
1970’S BLONDE REVIVAL
Sarah Black, Colour Director, Adam Reed, London
Ernie Mazonaite, Art Team Member, Hare & Bone, London
Over the last year or two, we’ve seen the ‘money piece’ and bold face frames everywhere. I don’t think this colour blocking craze will be going anywhere any time soon, but in 2022 we’ll be seeing a move towards colour blocking on just the tips of the hair—think 90’s Gwen Stefani’s monochrome moment. Whether it’s a bold graphic look or something softer, I see this being embraced by clients that are excited to experiment with colour but without the commitment.
1970’s blondes have made a comeback with warm sepia tones back in fashion. This winter, blondes are looking warmer and richer—everything from beige darker blondes to rich, golden, buttery tones. The look can be pretty versatile and on olive skin tones you can go for richer beige tones while warmer skin tones will look great with a more buttery golden blonde. When it comes to techniques, these can vary from a full head of highlights, full head balayage or a global tinted blonde with added hair pieces, especially around the front, to give it an extra pop of brightness.
TOP TIP
TOP TIP
With this look, you need to work confidently in creating a graphic line. Also, if you’re working with a high contrast palette, rinse using cool water to avoid unwanted blending.
The key to this look is having beautiful shiny locks, think full-on Hollywood glam, so always finish the look off with an illuminating toner.
@whatsarahdoes
@hareandbone
08 / Concept Hair
EMBRACING THE GREY Mark Mountney, Owner, Zoology, Wanstead A lot of clients are embracing their natural grey having discovered how fabulous it looked during lockdown, but special care is needed for grey to look its best. Hair texture changes as it goes grey—it’s not necessarily coarser but it’s finer and dryer, which is something you need to address. When hair is dry it often lacks the healthy shine that you get from long glossy nourished hair, so the first step to making grey hair look amazing is to use nourishing gloss treatments that help add shine. I also recommend aftercare that is designed for fragile hair to help pump back in the moisture and I advise clients to alternate this with a good-quality silver shampoo that will blast out any yellow or orange tones. Weekly masks are essential for keeping the condition soft and hair glossy.
TOP TIP Just because a client wants to embrace their grey, it doesn’t mean saying no to colour completely. I will often add a warmer shade to the grey and blend it beautifully, especially if they are growing out old colour.
@zoologyhairstudio
“A lot of clients are embracing their natural grey” Concept Hair / 09
Winter 2022 / LOY 2022
your time to be inspirational
Learner of the Year is back for 2022, with a record number of entries and a live final!
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xcitement is mounting over this year’s Learner of the Year competition, with a record number of entries flooding in before the closing date of 17 December. Learners have shown just how passionate they are about their craft and about Learner of the Year, with a staggering 1,700+ registering to take part in this year’s competition.
Learner of the Year 2022 gives the next generation of hairdressers and barbers the chance to be recognised for their hard work and skills. This is your time to shine!
10 / Concept Hair
This year there were eight creatively inspiring categories to enter:
CATEGORIES
STYLING – LEVEL 1 Vintage Retro
STYLING – LEVEL 2 Vintage Retro HAIR UP – LEVEL 2 Masquerade Ball HAIR UP – LEVEL 3 Masquerade Ball BARBERING – LEVEL 2 Looking Sharp BARBERING – LEVEL 3 Looking Sharp COLOURING – ALL LEVELS Colour Creativity Avant-Garde – Levels 2 & 3 Signs of the Zodiac
“The Concept Hair team will be there to cheer you on” GOING LIVE
The team at Concept Hair Magazine are more excited than ever, as we return to having a live final for Learner of the Year 2022. Taking part on 24 March at Solihull College & University Centre, the final will see the six shortlisted entrants in each category compete to be named winners in their categories and potentially hear themselves announced as the overall winner of Learner of the Year 2022! This is a chance for you to demonstrate your skills and creativity in an exciting but also nurturing atmosphere. The Concept Hair team will be there to cheer you on and you really will all be winners just for getting to the final.
LOY 2022 / Winter 2022
the 2022 sponsors We’d like to say a big THANK YOU to our amazing sponsors!
Learner of the Year would not be possible without our amazing sponsors, all truly dedicated to supporting and inspiring the next generation of hairdressing talent. A massive shout out to L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, CLOUD NINE, Wahl, Bettertons, Andrew Barton London Education (ABLE), Fellowship for British Hairdressing and VTCT.
“This is your time to shine”
Here’s what some of our sponsors had to say about Learner of the Year and the importance of entering competitions. “Competitions are a great way to get your work and name out there, to be seen by leading professionals and give you the opportunity to show off your creative skills and challenge yourself. Here at CLOUD NINE we are constantly on the lookout for the next generation of stylists to work with and we sponsor the competition to offer support and career opportunities.” BECKY SMITH Group Marketing Manager, CLOUD NINE
“We believe passionately that competitions have helped us to uncover talent for more than 65 years, keeping the Industry current and ensuring that everyone has the opportunity to shine. Providing platforms to showcase talent is essential and we are committed to supporting and encouraging all hairdressers at all stages of their career to take part in as many competitions and experience as many opportunities as possible.” MONICA TEODORO General Manager Education and Professional Development, L’Oréal Professional Products Division
“Entering competitions can provide a great platform for your career as it puts your work in front of the industry’s leading brands and peers. By putting your work out there you are giving yourself the opportunity to develop your skills and discover new ways of doing things. The most important thing to take away is that with every haircut you do, you are learning something new and improving your skills for the future. Wahl wishes the best of luck to everyone who has entered and we look forward to seeing your incredible work.” SIMON SHAW Global Artistic Director, Wahl
Concept Hair / 11
Winter 2022 / Haircare
Fight the Frizz
As winter weather takes its toll, frizzy hair will be a common complaint for clients across the UK. British Hairdresser of the Year and Creative Director for Russell Eaton Hair, Robert Eaton, gives his top tips on fighting the frizz. QUALITY CHECK
The use of quality hair products is vital if your client’s hair is on the dry and frizzy side. I would always recommend that clients suffering from dry and frizzy hair include a weekly hair mask or leave-in conditioner in their hair routine, as they are specifically designed to help to calm frizz by rebuilding the structure of the hair. Over time, this will help their hair to become shinier, more resilient and stronger. It’s also worth clients investing in regular in-salon treatments to help combat frizz.
GIVE IT A REST
Giving hair a rest from heat is also important. For many clients, daily styling and blow-drying can have a very drying and damaging effect on their hair, resulting in frizz. So, giving hair a break from heated tools for a day or two a week can be hugely beneficial.
Robertot n Ea
HOT STUFF
When blow-drying a client’s hair, these are the steps I advise taking to help prevent frizz. STEP 1: Adding a blow-dry cream before applying heat creates the right foundations to style the client’s hair as it smooths away signs of damage or frizz, leaving hair glossy, shiny and healthy looking. Make sure you take time to comb through the hair for an even distribution of products. STEP 2: Apply a heat-protection spray before you begin the blow-dry. This provides an invisible barrier and will leave the hair looking shiny and healthy, even after heat has been applied. STEP 3: Once you have finished blowdrying and styling, choose an appropriate finishing product, depending on their hair type, to seal the hair and protect against the elements.
“The use of quality hair products is vital” @roberteaton
12 / Concept Hair
M M M
Stay Motivated! Motivated! Motivated! Fit for Learning / Winter 2022
It’s a new year and a fresh start for us all. Here’s our guide to keeping motivated and staying focused.
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as the new year found you in need of a bit more get-upand-go? Don’t worry, it’s normal to need a boost now and then. Sometimes it’s a matter of taking better care of yourself, getting enough sleep and learning to live in the moment. It can also help to be reminded of what a fabulous industry hairdressing is and the incredible career you are heading towards if you keep working hard and stay focused.
“It can help to be reminded what a fabulous industry hairdressing is”
Over the next four pages, we talk to some successful hairdressers about how they keep motivated, plus we look at ways you can look after your mind and body to ensure both are ready to embrace the exciting journey 2022 has in store for you.
Concept Hair / 13
Winter 2022 / Fit for Learning
DAN SPILLER
KAROLIINA SAUNDERS
ASHLEIGH HODGES
Artistic Team Member, Marc Antoni, Fleet
Owner, Karoliina Saunders Hair Design, Highworth, Wiltshire
Director, Hairdotcom Art Team
“I’m so fortunate that no two days in hairdressing are ever the same, and this keeps the creativity flowing which is fantastic and certainly keeps me on my toes. When looking to get motivated, I only have to look at my clients and my team and this instantly motivates me. My team members strive to achieve the best results for their clients and once the results are unveiled this is motivation in itself.
“I’m one of life’s lucky ones as I absolutely love my job and therefore welcome every day as it dawns — that’s if I’m not already up creating wigs for shows or doing something equally creatively inspiring! However, for those who find it difficult to motivate themselves, you have to start with a certain level of self-belief and work in a positive environment where your input is respected. There will always be small elements of your job that you dislike, but go with the flow as mastering these elements will make you an even better hairdresser.
“To motivate myself, I look outside our industry. I’ll listen to someone I find inspirational or look into a subject I find interesting, whether it be on a podcast or a documentary.
“In order to maintain my passion for hairdressing, I personally love going to events as it really gets me back in the zone and keeps my mind fresh and inspiration flowing. Shows such as Salon International and Pro Hair Live and the line-up of events from the Fellowship for British Hairdressing are a great way to embrace your passion for hairdressing and keep the excitement alight. “Social media is also another quick and easy way to keep the passion going and is something I use on a daily basis. Facebook lives, Instagram reels and transformations always lure me in and I always find myself getting excited and inspired.”
@danspiller2010
“I love the platform Masterclass.com and often watch one of their short documentaries during a lunch break to engage my brain and help make me think differently. I then take that lesson and apply it to my life and my work.”
“If it’s all work and no play, that doesn’t help press your motivational button either. Invest in your well-being by taking regular exercise, even if it means getting out of the salon in your breaktime and walking around the block telling yourself how great you are.”
“I listen to someone I find inspirational”
@karoliinasaunders
@ashleigh_hodges_hair
Stay positive!
14 / Concept Hair
Fit for Learning / Winter 2022
BE MINDFUL
It’s easy to let our minds wander and think about what still needs doing, rather than focusing on the moment, and getting the most out of it. Simple meditation techniques can help retrain the brain to stay focused and lead to a general feeling of well-being. Meditation is a great way to start your day; think of it as decluttering your mind before you tackle whatever the day has in store with renewed energy. Just take 10 minutes each morning to relax and breathe. Find somewhere quiet to lie or sit, close your eyes and focus on your breathing, taking slow in and out breaths. And don’t worry about those distracting thoughts that keep popping into your head, just let them drift through your mind, but don’t pay them any attention. These 10 minutes of simple breathing exercises can help clear your mind, relax you and get the day off to a positive start. It will also begin to train you to be more mindful and soon you will start to enjoy all the benefits that this brings.
GET YOUR SLEEP
One thing you need to stay motivated is energy and one of the best ways to ensure you feel energised is to get enough sleep — around eight hours a night is generally considered ideal. While you sleep, your body is repairing and regenerating and your mind is resting, which means a good night’s sleep will result in a day where you feel energised and, quite literally, renewed.
TIPS FOR A GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP
• Avoid blue light before bed. Blue light from computers and mobile phones can trick your brain into thinking it's still daylight and, therefore, not time to sleep. Try and avoid any blue-light devices for an hour before you head to bed. • Declutter. Keep your bedroom clutter-free — the more minimalist the better. Clutter is not good for a restful state of mind. • Restful colours. Certain colours are better for making us feel relaxed. Blues, yellows and greens have been shown to promote healthier sleep patterns, according to research by Travelodge. • Avoid caffeine. Caffeine is a stimulant so avoid drinks such as coffee and regular tea for a good few hours before bedtime. Instead, opt for caffeine-free options such as camomile tea.
“just take 10 minutes each morning to relax and breathe”
Winter 2022 / Don't Panic
don’t panic!
A new year and a new start doesn’t mean you won’t get the odd thing wrong. Mistakes happen — it’s one of the ways we learn. The secret is to stay calm and not panic.
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he truth is most common errors can be corrected, if you have the know-how. Here, two top hairdressers give us the heads-up on how to make good when you get it wrong.
Don't Panic / Winter 2022
TERRY LONGDEN
COREY TAYLOR
NOCO Hair, Bristol
A common mistake when colouring hair is applying the wrong colour in the wrong place. Imagine rinsing off your perfectly placed balayage and bringing your guest back to the chair to apply their toner. You have two colours mixed up, a base 7 and a base 10. Everything's going great until you switch sides to apply at the front and spin your trolly.
S TAY C A L M
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Wipe off the excess colour with a towel or cotton wool.
Then apply pre-lightener over the section you've just applied the tint to. And voila — it's like nothing ever happened.
3
I'm pretty sure this is where the concept of wet balayage came from. I actually did this to my best friend and it turned out to be one of the best colours I've ever done.
@nocohair_clifton
When it comes to perming, the most common mistake is not selecting the correct perm strength for the hair type. This can result in over or underprocessed hair. Another common mistake is failing to rinse and neutralise thoroughly, which means the perm will look great on the day then relax and drop too much after the first shampoo. And finally, it’s easy to make the wrong rod type or size selection.
“Most common errors can be corrected”
Whatever goes wrong, don't panic, there’s a solution.
S TAY C A L M
Before you know it, you've picked up the base 7 and applied it to those freshly lightened ends.
Matrix Artist Ambassador and Owner of Terry Longden Creatives, Redditch
3
1
If the perm is too loose, re-perm after 48 hours with a smaller rod and weaker solution.
2
If the perm is too tight, invite the client back after 48 hours and start again, using larger rods and a weaker solution, or in extreme circumstances, comb through the weaker perm solution until the curl pattern has loosened then neutralise as normal.
To correct an uneven curl pattern, first evaluate whether this is due to rod selection or uneven hair integrity, then either re-perm or apply integrity balancing treatments.
@terrylongdencreatives
“Whatever goes wrong, don't panic, there’s a solution” Concept Hair / 17
Winter 2022 / School Spotlight Award
Shining a light on talent Our Sponsors:
It’s your time to be in the spotlight — let your talent shine!
SCHOOL spotlight award
Concept Hair is thrilled to announce that the School Spotlight Award is back for the 2021/22 academic year. The photographic competition is open to level 1 and 2, key stage 4/5 learners and it’s an amazing opportunity to show how creative you can be.
This year’s theme is Festival Hair, so you can really let your imagination run wild. Hair can be up or down, short or long — it’s your choice. Just think about styles that can be worn all day and still look fabulous for a night of dancing. You have plenty of time, with the submissions deadline not until 1 April 2022, but it’s never too early to start thinking about the look you want to create.
Interested? Speak to your teacher or tutor now and ask them to visit
concepthairmag.co.uk and register your school.
FESTIVAL HA ENTER BY 1 A
IR
PRIL
Here’s what some of our fabulous sponsors had to say about the School Spotlight Award and the importance of entering competitions.
MONICA TEODORO
General Manager Education and Professional Development, L’Oréal Professional Products Division “Competitions drive standards, they grow your confidence, they help you explore your skills and discover areas of development. It’s a great way to unlock your passion and open new opportunities.”
18 / Concept Hair
PAULINE VAN LAETHEM
JACQUI MCINTOSH
SIMON SHAW
Marketing Manager, Indola
European Education Director, Avlon
Global Artistic Director, Wahl
“Entering competitions can be a great way to learn and grow within the industry. You will discover a whole new host of skills, you’ll find out what works and what doesn’t and why it’s always so important to keep on improving on your skill set.”
“Competitions are a great way to test your skills and knowledge. Creative work brings about an awareness of fashion and culture, while expanding an individual’s own creativity. They also push you to understand your own abilities and gain confidence.”
“What better way to kickstart your career than to enter the School Spotlight Award and have your work recognised by industry leading brands, hairdressers and barbers.”
the interview
leading by example
Anne Veck is a hairdressing pioneer. Not only is she a major creative force, along with husband and business partner, Keith Mellen, she also leads the way at her Oxford-based salon when it comes to sustainability.
“My collections very often reflect my passion for the planet we live on”
Interview / Winter 2022
Concept Hair: How would you sum up your approach to hairdressing?
CH: How do you keep your team motivated?
Anne Veck: I believe that all hairdressing should be ethical, sustainable and professional — and that hairdressing is Art!
AV: A happy, highly skilled and loyal team is the key to a successful salon, which is why we encourage everyone to fulfil their goals. Each team member has their own individual training and development plan which is discussed each month with their manager and reviewed and updated annually. Followup action includes in-house and external training, as well as online training through social media, education by our product partners, or through industry magazines and books. Each Tuesday, from 12 noon onwards, is training day for the apprentices and graduate stylists. Once a month we have an evening workshop at which stylists take turns in leading on one of their areas of expertise — helped along by pizza!
CH: Tell us more about the Anne Veck salon. AV: In 2021, Anne Veck, Oxford celebrated its 30th anniversary. Over the years our business and values have developed just as much as we have. My mission and brand is clear - to make the hairdressing industry more professional, inclusive and sustainable. We also try to influence our clients to make sustainable changes in their lives. We talk about sustainability throughout their time in the salon, provide refill stations for products and explain why we use the products we do. We share the latest sustainable salon updates in our newsletter and we like to tell clients that by choosing Anne Veck, Oxford, they reduce their own carbon footprint. CH: Tell us a bit more about your commitment to being environmentally friendly AV: Anne Veck, Oxford is the first – and only – certified carbon-neutral salon in the UK. A few years ago we undertook a whole salon refit to incorporate clean, recycled energy to power the business, and we have won countless awards in recognition of our green achievements and efforts towards educating the hairdressing industry about sustainability issues. We believe that the hairdressing industry should operate ethically and sustainably, in a world where being kind to our fellow humans and the earth resonates with clients.
“Anne Veck, Oxford is the first certified carbon-neutral salon in the UK”
CH: You are known for your incredible photographic collections – where does your inspiration come from? AV: My inspiration can come from anywhere. Sometimes it might be social media, other times it can literally be something I see while walking down the street. My collections very often reflect my passion for the world and planet that we live on. Inspiration can come from anywhere—don’t force it and let it come to you. CH: What advice would you offer to a young hairdresser or trainee wanting to put together a collection of their own? AV: Really think about what you want to achieve. What will your collection reflect? Ensure that it really showcases you as a stylist. Practise, practise, practise and be prepared to make mistakes - you will learn from them and they will make you stronger. CH: Any advice to trainee hairdressers on how to follow your success? AV: Never stop learning. Even the best of the best continue to train. You can always improve your craft. Listen to your clients, ensure that you offer all types of services from balayage to working with Afro hair. If you don’t already work with all hair types then learn to do so.
@annevecksalons
Concept Hair / 21
I can’t
cope
SUPPORTING HAIR AND BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS AND THEIR CHILDREN
Together we can help make a difference supporting terminal illness, domestic abuse, homelessness, poverty, mental health, and financial hardship SPONSORS GOLD
SILVER
BRONZE CAMPAIGNS
Hairandbeautycharity.org | Registered Charity in England & Wales No: 1166298
MEDIA
EXHIBITIONS
Advertorial / Creative Expression / Winter 2022
Creative Expression
Express your creativity with Manic Panic’s range of colour and haircare products.
A
t Manic Panic, colour is our expression! We never want that to fade so we have produced some great products to help you create kickass hair colour that looks its ultimate best for longer, because we know a good hair day can make any day good! Before you get too carried away with creating incredible colour, preparing hair before application is essential. Use the Manic Panic Prepare to Dye clarifying shampoo which is designed to rejuvenate hair and remove excess oils, ready for a new hair look. Now it’s time to dye! Did you know washing hair too often will cause colour to fade a lot quicker? This is especially true when washing hair with unsuitable shampoo and conditioner. Also, coloured hair should be washed with cool water as hot water will strip the colour from hair causing it to fade at a much faster rate. So spread the word — if dry shampoo isn’t cutting it anymore, turn that cool water tap on!
“Colour is our expression”
Not only have we got you covered when prepping hair, Manic Panic has thought about the whole process. Meet Manic Panic’s Not Fade Away shampoo and Keep Colour Alive conditioner. This dynamic duo is designed to keep colour bold and vibrant for as long as possible, featuring a specially designed formula that locks colour in. All these products have been formulated using vegan and cruelty-free ingredients, as well as zero sulphates or parabens to guarantee hair with a naturally healthy-looking glow.
@manicpanic_uk
Shop the full haircare collection at www.manic-panic.co.uk and enjoy your manic hair look for longer!
Concept Hair / 23
The world’s 1st
IN-SALON SILVER TREATMENT FOR REVITALISING NATURALLY GREY HAIR* FREE OF COMMITMENT. FREE OF DAMAGE. @WellaHairUKI | #WellaColour
Don’t forget to book onto the NEW ‘Mastering Grey’ studio course and online seminar.
Learn more about the NEW products and services here.
*Combining: Free of perfume and alkalisers such as ammonia or ethanolamine oxidative grey pigments pH7
Pro Hair Tape / Winter 2022
Runway Accessory
Create ponytails fit for the catwalk with Pro Hair Tape.
S
alon Owner and Session Stylist, Let Lew, knows the pressure hairdressers operate under, whether they are working on looks for fashion shows or in a busy salon. With this in mind, Let recently launched Pro Hair Tape, the perfect accessory for creating super-smooth ponytails.
“Session and Style”
Pro Hair Tape is available in six shades — aqua, blush, brown, pink, black, and clear. The uniquely formulated hair tape only bonds to its own surface, so even if there are hair products on the tape, it won’t alter its effectiveness. Because Pro Hair Tape only bonds to its own surface, it also means there is no hair pulling and minimum tension on the scalp.
Pink
Here’s how you use Pro Hair Tape to create the perfect ponytail
1
First, cut a piece of Pro Hair Tape to the length you need. You’ll need enough to wrap and overlap around the base of the ponytail at least one and a half times. When ready, snip both ends off to create a brief 45-degree angle — this allows the wrapping to finish smoothly. Now you are ready to apply the tape, so peel off the protective film.
Aqua
2
Comb and brush all the hair to desired height for the ponytail, gather hair firmly with one hand while brushing for a smooth finish.
3 4
Gather the ponytail with your thumb and index finger closest to the base of the ponytail, pressing firmly.
Black
Start wrapping Pro Hair Tape while holding one end with the index finger under the base of the ponytail. Do not lose tension until the tape reaches at least one circle and bonds to itself firmly.
Clear/Blonde
@prohairtape
Blush
Brown
“The perfect accessory for creating super-smooth ponytails”
5
Now Pro Hair Tape should be firmly in place, carry on wrapping the remaining length of tape until fully wound.
HOW TO REMOVE PRO HAIR TAPE Simply create tension by holding and pressing on the tape, pierce the surface with a tail comb to release hair. For more detailed videos please visit www.prohairtape.com
Concept Hair / 25
Winter 2022 / Look Book
WELLA GENNOW TEAM
The Wella GenNOW Team 2021 was made up of four up-and-coming hairdressers. As part of their 18-month programme, they got together with top session stylist Luke Benson to create this cutting-edge collection.
WELLA GENNOW TEAM Hair by: Wella GenNOW Team 2021 Creative direction by: Luke Benson Make-up by: Lan Ngyen-Grealis Clothes styling by: Jennifer Michalski-Bray Photography by: Kevin Luchmun
Look Book / Winter 2022 “The highlight of this shoot was learning from Luke’s knowledge and meeting incredibly talented stylists, photographers and make-up artists, and then seeing the final vision come to life” Aisling Kenny, House of Colour, Dublin @aislingkenny_hoc
“It was a dream to work alongside such a creative, talented team. I learnt a lot about changing the shape of hair without cutting it, and how by styling you can make it look like a whole different shape, cut or style” Sophie Kinloch, McIntyres, Dundee @sofdoessomehair
“It was a day full of learning as well as creating. I learnt not to be afraid to try new things, not to always stick to what you know, and that it’s good to come out of your comfort zone” Danielle Boler, NJUK Hair & Beauty, Chesterfield @hair_danielle1
“The main thing I took away was that mood boards can completely change the way you think about the final images, so make sure you put time into a mood board before continuing further with the shoot” Emily Worboys, Hair Lounge 47, Colchester @hairbyemily99
Concept Hair / 27
CLUBSTAR ART TEAM 2021
Winter 2022 / Look Book
CLUBSTAR ART TEAM Hair by: Fellowship ClubStar Art Team 2021 Make-up by: Jo Sugar Styling by: Bernard Connolly Photography by: Ayo Banton Sponsored by: Goldwell and Schwarzkopf Professional
Look Book / Winter 2022
Concept Hair / 29
Winter 2022 / Look Book
FAME TEAM 2021
FAME TEAM 2021 Hair by: FAME Team 2021 Brandon Messinger Brooke Evans Casey Coleman Jose Domene Art direction by: Hooker & Young Make-up by: Kirsten Baillie Clothes styling by: Bernard Connolly Photography by: Michael Young
FAST STYLING. FLAWLESS SHINE. Our Keratin Lustre collection features a powerful 2300W dryer with ionic frizz control technology for an exceptionally sleek finish, and a high performance straightener with keratin infused ceramic plates and 10 temperature settings to suit all hair types. The perfect tools to create luxurious, smooth styles that last.
#PoweredByBaByliss #StyledByYou
Winter 2022 / Behind the Scenes
“It had to be as visual as if they were sitting in the front row”
It’s Show Time! O
nce our appearance at the 65th L’Oréal Colour Trophy was confirmed, the first thing we did was to start to build a concept and find a way to take the audience on an immersive experience. We have been playing with some ideas for a while and decided to break down the show into five sections, representing five girls with different feelings and experiences.
34 / Concept Hair
th a We worked wi ner clothes desig called Syban on designing es bespoke piec from for the show, es ch et sk r pe pa to reality. It’s to always great e to see ideas com r to pe pa m fro life presentation.
The Brooks & Brooks artistic team presented the opening show at the 2021 L’Oréal Colour Trophy. Artistic director, Marlon Hawkins, gives Concept Hair a peek into the creation of their hypnotic show, Borderless.
Behind the Scenes / Winter 2022
Colour e, the L’Oréal For the first tim eo, vid tual, so for us Trophy was vir ent, m ele k al tw e ca as well as a liv ow. part in this sh played a big ence di au e th take We wanted to visuals ing irl sw of y on a journe those audio so that and hypnotic uld really co s en re sc watching on rience. ole visual expe enjoy the wh digital by influenced We were highly e at the os th ing lud inc art exhibitions The Asian b, Tokyo and Borderless La co cis an Fr San Art Museum,
t This digital ar instillation at s the Borderles Lab Museum a in Tokyo was e huge influenc . ow sh r on ou
Show day came round so quickly and after 18 months, it was amazing to be back doing what we love and feeling the buzz of bei ng backstage. There wer e four of us working on the sho w – myself, Grace Dal gleish, Sally Brooks and Jamie Brooks.
Image credit: Asian Art Museum, San Francisdco
As the concep t developed, we started working on hair with a ‘lo oktwice’ feel. W hatever the camera an gle, there was som ething different to se e every time.
@marlonjhawkins
Concept Hair / 35
Winter 2022 / Step-by-Step
CREATING A LOW FADE
TEXTURED LOOK
From Pivot Point LAB, a bespoke VTCT learning resource, this step-by-step guide takes us through the procedures for creating a low fade, blending to high graduation and textured layers. 01
Consult with the client to determine the placement of fade, the length and desired interior texture.
02
02
Section both sides from the recession area horizontally to the crown. Remove internal perimeter lengths at the sides using clippers with guard on. Connect the sides, creating a slightly rounded line at centre back. Cut using C-strokes to keep the length at the top.
03
04
FOUR ZONES WILL BE USED TO CREATE THE FADE: • Each zone is approximately 1.25cm wide and slightly thicker towards centre-back • For Zone 1, make a bald area slightly above the hairline. On the left side, use the corner of trimmers and short C-strokes. Creating a curved line, work back to centre nape • Cut Zone 2 with no guard and clippers fully open • Blend Zones 1 and 2 with no guard and clippers half open • Further blend the bottom of Zone 2 to Zone 1 with no guard and clippers fully closed • Cut Zone 3 with a 3mm guard and clippers fully open • Blend Zones 3 and 2 with 3mm guard and clippers half open • Further blend the bottom of Zone 3 to Zone 2 with 3mm guard and clippers fully closed.
36 / Concept Hair
Courtesy of Pivot Point International, Inc. © 2022
Step-by-Step / Winter 2022
05
Pre-cut transition area using clipperover-comb technique, a 6mm guard, and clippers fully closed. Position comb diagonally back and cut to connect the lengths. Work from the left hairline to the centre back. Repeat on the right side.
06
07
• Cut Zone 4 with a 4.5mm guard and clippers fully open • Blend Zones 4 and 3 with 4.5mm guard and clippers half open • Further blend the bottom of Zone 4 to Zone 3 with 4.5mm guard and clippers fully closed • Refine transition area using clipper-over-comb technique with 6mm guard • Use thinning scissors and a scissor-over-comb technique to blend and refine lengths
08
Take a centre vertical parting at the crown. Comb straight out, hold fingers vertically, and cut parallel, following a length guide from the parietal ridge. Work to the right using pivotal partings and a mobile guideline. Repeat on the other side.
11
To extend the graduation into the top, release a horizontal parting from the recession to behind the ear. Take vertical partings from the front hairline, position fingers to create high graduation, and blend lengths. Repeat on the other side.
The finished look is a low fade along a curved line with contrasting longer interior lengths that offer texture and styling versatility.
09
10
Take a vertical parting through the upper crown and top section. Comb the hair straight up and cut to connect. Continue through the top, hold fingers for a length increase towards the front, cut parallel to the fingers. Use this parting as a mobile guideline to cut the top section. Release the triangular section, take a centre parting to the hairline. Comb hair straight up using a guide from the top section, hold fingers for a length increase towards the face and cut parallel. Use a mobile guideline to complete the section.
12
Blow dry the hair. Take horizontal partings through the top section, hold the hair straight up, and point-cut into the ends to create texture. Use products to finish the look.
finished LOOK
Winter 2022 / Hair Trends
peaky blinders cut
THE PEAKY BLINDERS CUT With the return of Peaky Blinders to our TV screens, many male clients are opting for the blunt cut, made popular by Mr Thomas Shelby himself. The style features a close skin razor around the sides and back, teamed with a heavy top section. The undercut of the top section remains very blunt, radiating strength and power. To give this style a new twist, cut into the blunt line for an uneven edge.
Old-school, New Twist @hairbydarrel
Rising hairdressing star, Darrel Starkey, offers his take on men’s hair trends that are taking winter by storm. 38 / Concept Hair
Hair Trends / Winter 2022
THE PERM
THE SHORT SLICK
Popular in spring/summer 2021, the perm is back and going nowhere! Men are loving this voluminous textured look and this trend is set to stay for winter 2022. Often teamed with a fade around the sides and back sections, this is a real statement look for male clients and gives the illusion of thickness – something many guys are looking for. This is a great style which lasts and is very popular with the younger, Gen Z clients.
Taking inspiration from celebrities such as David Beckham, Brad Pitt and Colin Farrell who have all sported this look, the short slick is a classic style which continues to be hugely popular on the runways and with clients. Keeping hair a good length, it is slicked back towards the crown area, giving an effortless, classic look. The hair is cut at one length with a few disconnected layers included to allow the slick to sit perfectly when pulled back. It can also be parted into the classic curtain for a real retro look.
short slick
perm “The perm is back and going nowhere!”
“The short slick will be hugely popular on the runways and with clients” Concept Hair / 39
Winter 2022 / Gender Neutral
G
enderneutral pricing was a concept Melissa worked on during the various lockdowns and the salon has been operating the policy for nearly a year now.
Concept Hair: Tell us more about the changes and why you made them. Melissa Timperley: The salon no longer offers ‘ladies’ and ‘gents’ haircut services — all haircuts at Melissa Timperley are simply priced based on the amount of time the appointment will take and the expertise of the stylist. Manchester is a dynamic city that embraces all types of people and I wanted my salon to reflect this welcoming culture of inclusion and acceptance. CH: How else will this benefit clients?
“A service based on our time and expertise, not their gender”
MT: Our new gender-neutral pricing will remove any labelling of customers and this feels like a positive step towards a more inclusive salon environment for all our clients. Gender-neutral pricing is an emerging movement that recognises not only gender fluidity but also modern hair trends. It is not uncommon for women to rock a pixie cut or men to enjoy long locks, and, therefore, many feel a reform of pricing makes the hair salon experience fairer for all. The concept also goes some way to address the ‘pink tax’ - a term for the inflated prices of female products and services. CH: How do your stylists feel about the changes? MT: To stylists, hair is hair. Whether it’s long or short, fine or curly, male or female, it doesn’t matter to us, we are here to make you look and feel your best. Our clients will be paying for a service based on our time and expertise, not their gender.
making pricing gender-neutral
Melissa Timperley, Owner of an award-winning, Manchester-based salon, of the same name, now offers gender-neutral pricing for services. We spoke to Melissa to find out more. 42 / Concept Hair
@melissatimp
Talisha Cox, Owner of the Elite Hair Lounge salon group in London, offers her top tips for building a busy column.
“Make your client feel really special”
CONSISTENT 1 STAY WITH YOUR ‘NICHE’
What sets you apart from other hairdressers? Are you the best at blowdries, a colour connoisseur or textured hair specialist? Find your niche and clients will continue to come back.
2 BOND BUILDING
Note down the little things you want to remember about your client for their next appointment. For example, how much sugar they take in their tea or an event they’ve told you about. This will make your client feel really special and listened to, and it’s a great way to build a lasting relationship.
SNAP 3 GET HAPPY
Offer to take before and after pictures with your client’s phone, during their appointment. They’ll be inclined to show other people their transformation in person and on social media. This wordof-mouth marketing is priceless.
Let’s Get Busy!
44 / Concept Hair
4 BEREALISTIC
Always work within your client’s budget and lifestyle to encourage return appointments. The more realistic a salon visit regime is, the more likely they are to come back.
5 STAY CONNECTED
Give your clients a friendly courtesy call if they are overdue on an appointment. They may appreciate the nudge and just not had the time to rebook. A little friendly encouragement can keep your column busy.
@talishacox_
Expert Advice / Winter 2022
Growing Pains
Can hair actually stop growing? Hairdressing expert and CEO of Passion4Hair, Debbie Digby looks at the facts.
C
lients often complain that their hair isn’t growing. Is it possible that hair literally stops growing? If your client colours their hair, a quick look at the roots will tell you if their hair is growing or not. If they have roots it is still growing. If the hair has actually stopped growing it signifies a problem with the growth cycle.
RULE OUT HAIR LOSS
Look for these signs: Bald patches which can be a form of alopecia, or thinning all over the head which is most likely a health or diet issue – in either of these cases we would advise a visit to the doctor or a hair-loss specialist.
“Each person has approximately 100,000 hairs on their head with blondes having most and red heads the least”
MECHANICAL DAMAGE
If the hair is growing normally at the roots but not in length, the cause could be over-use of heated appliances, leading to the ends of the hair becoming brittle, causing breakage. A haircut will help as shorter hair has more tensile strength (resistance to breakage). Also, recommend twice-weekly intensive conditioning masks — homecare advice is all part of the service.
Find out more about the Passion4Hair Academy here: www.p4hpro.com/education-events
KNOW YOUR HAIR GROWTH CYCLE
Being able to talk knowledgeably to your clients is always a bonus. Here are the facts on the hair growth cycle.
ANAGEN PHASE
This is the growing phase of the hair. At this stage the hair relies on nutrients from the blood supply at the dermal papilla (finger-like projections in the scalp that increase the flow of nutrients and oxygen). This is the longest phase of the hair cycle and can last around six years.
CATAGEN PHASE
This is the resting stage of the hair which typically lasts around two to four weeks. During this phase, the hair is slowly detaching from the hair bulb.
TELOGEN PHASE
The falling phase of the hair growth cycle. We typically lose 80—100 hairs a day. As the hair is moving out of the hair shaft the follicle prepares to make a new hair in the anagen phase.
Winter 2022 / Superstar Salons
superstar salons
HOB SALONS
There are thousands of salons across the UK that could be the next step on your career journey. We caught up with three top employers and asked what they offer their team members.
H
Akin Konizi, International Artistic Director, HOB Academy www.hobsalons.com/academy
OB is a group of 22 salons and an academy based in and around London.
Our company has been established for 38 years and we pride ourselves on excellent client service, education and quality of hairdressing. With our academy at the disposal of our staff, we believe this is truly a fantastic asset to help them constantly improve and evolve.
ON-GOING EDUCATION We train our own apprentices for a further three months on a graduate programme after they have achieved
46 / Concept Hair
their professional qualifications before they start working in a salon. We do regular in-salon visits where we train each salon team as a group. We also offer a variety of courses at our academy that all of our staff can attend at any time.
CAREER OPPORTUNITIES
We have managers and educators that began as assistants, and many top stylists and technicians in the most senior positions who have worked their way up from a graduate level. If team members embrace the HOB ethos and work hard and are guided by their managers, then the sky’s the limit for them.
MOTIVATION
We believe we have nurtured a great team of managers to lead our salons. It is their job to enthuse, support and motivate all of our staff. Our three company directors also still visit all of our salons, know most of our staff personally, track their progress and are heavily involved in their career journeys.
WHAT WE LOOK FOR
People with an eagerness to learn and develop and be the best they can be.
Superstar Salons / Winter 2022
KAM HAIR & BODY SPA, LOSSIEMOUTH
K
AM Hair & Body Spa in Lossiemouth is celebrating 30 years as one of the leading hair and beauty destinations in the North of Scotland. We have a gorgeous luxury salon to work in with a friendly and professional team.
ON-GOING EDUCATION
As a Matrix Artistic Director, I regularly hold live demonstrations and training on the latest products and techniques within the salon for the team and invite in other brands and external educators to further develop the team’s knowledge and skills.
CAREER OPPORTUNITIES We invest in each team member and support their career progression. We hold weekly in-salon training for trainees and graduate stylists, as well as monthly team meetings focusing on a range of hairdressing and client service issues.
MOTIVATION
If a member of the team has exceeded their targets, they are rewarded, whether this is with a free treatment, a gift or even a cash bonus. We also ensure that the team are involved in the decision-making process, showing team members their input is important to the business.
WHAT WE LOOK FOR
People that are polite, professional and well-presented as well as motivated, passionate and hard-working. Karen Thomson, Owner KAM Hair and Body Spa www.kamhairandbodyspa.co.uk
SMITH ENGLAND, SALISBURY, WILTSHIRE
S
mith England is the flagship salon of the Phil Smith brand. The salon is located in Salisbury, Wiltshire, offering premium haircare to a broad clientele. Our team is a family. We all take care of each other and help with everything — there is no hierarchy.
ON-GOING EDUCATION
We have regular sessions where we openly discuss products, their ingredients, and how and when to use them. We also have in-house colour training, when either a Wella educator or another external educator comes to the salon to teach the team up-to-date techniques, new trends and how to do thorough consultations.
CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Monthly appraisals allow us to talk to one another on a one-to-one basis, meaning we understand our strengths and discuss how we can improve ourselves and our techniques, ensuring our team are happy going forward. We then outline what education is needed to ensure the team are always learning and improving.
MOTIVATION
Motivation is key to a successful team. Regular chats, meet-ups, dinners out, even trips to Ibiza keep morale high and makes us closer to each other. Building stronger friendships then allows us to open up to each other.
WHAT WE LOOK FOR
Passion! If you have the desire to work hard and succeed then you will. Phil Smith, Owner, Smith England www.smithenglandhair.co.uk
Concept Hair / 47
Winter 2022 / Lecturer Corner
Bespoke Education
@andrewbartonable
Educators, you can create aspirational training for your college and students with ABLE.
A
BLE is a training programme created and presented by celebrity hairdresser Andrew Barton. Andrew has won some of the most prestigious awards in hairdressing, including British Hairdresser of the Year and Hair Icon, and he can bring all this experience and creativity to your students with ABLE.
SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAMME
ABLE provides the wider skills required for students to be salon ready and is designed to run alongside college learning to deliver best practice and encourage student success. ABLE also supports educators in preparing for the mandatory increase of work placement by building relationships with industry in line with T Levels. ABLE students will cover the vast majority of the mandatory 20% of the job training required to achieve their apprenticeship.
ABLE is a unique scholarship programme that includes: • A contemporary 24-month addon training programme • Bi-monthly video tutorials in line with the syllabus which share the fundamentals of hairdressing training • ABLE training videos which link to the standards and qualifications at Level 2 and 3 • In line with the new Level 3 Advanced and Creative Hair Professional apprenticeship standard, ABLE supports and encourages students to develop a portfolio of their work to present to employers • An annual bespoke aspirational day out of college hosted by Andrew • A visit to your college from Andrew to present a showcase of bespoke, aspirational education designed in collaboration with the college • CPD opportunity for lecturers.
“ABLE provides the wider skills required for students to be salon ready”
BARTON BESPOKE
Barton Bespoke is a great way to experience the ABLE way of learning. This one-day tailored training seminar sees Andrew bring his knowledge and experience into your college, working in advance with the college team to create a truly tailored education for you and your students. From creative to classic hair cutting and contemporary hair styling, you and your students will receive hands-on practical training, explore trends, while developing skills and confidence in the latest cutting techniques. As well as sharing his creative process, Andrew will immerse your students in salon life, explaining the key ‘other’ skills they need to develop and the opportunities this amazing industry can offer.
For further information contact Sarah Seaman sarah@andrewbartonlondoneducation.co.uk Tel 07525 017787
48 / Concept Hair
Exercises / Winter 2022
exercises VTCT provides Pivot Point LAB, an online learning platform, to support its Hair, Barbering and Beauty qualifications. The resources available in LAB help you develop your skills and knowledge and prepare for qualification assessments. Learn through interactive lessons, quizzes, videos and more. Ask your training provider if they are using LAB and get started today!
Discover more about Pivot Point Education at www.pivotpoint.co.uk
Vocational Training Charitable Trust is a specialist awarding organisation offering vocational and technical qualifications in a range of service sectors. These exercises have been created with Pivot Point industry expertise to test your knowledge on a range of skills.
If you would like to find out more about how one of VTCT’s courses could help further your career, check out the website www.vtct.org.uk
BARBERING — CUTTING TECHNIQUES
Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.
Q1
What is the cutting technique used to define the perimeter hairline of the haircut called?
Ans.
Q3
Which one of the following cutting techniques would be used to create a textured finish?
A
C-stroke
A
Point cutting
B
Notching
B
Freehand
C
Outlining
C
Club cutting
D
Crosshatching
D
Scissor-over-comb
Q2
Creative lines and shapes etched or cut into the hair, usually exposing the scalp, are called hair:
Ans.
Q4
A client requests textured square layers with high graduation. Approximately where will the graduation finish?
A
Transparency
A
At the nape
B
Outlining
B
At the crown
C
Tapering
C
At the temples
D
Graphics
D
Below the occipital bone
Ans.
Ans.
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free. Concept Hair / 49
Winter 2022 / Exercises
BUSINESS – COLUMN BUILDING
Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.
Q1
Which of the following descriptions is NOT a best practice strategy for building a clientele?
Ans.
Q4
Which one of the following describes good communication with clients?
A
Referral
A
Using technical language and smiling
B
Upselling
B
Using clear language and eye contact
C
Comparing
C
Using a gentle tone and closed body language
D
Pre-booking
D
Using open questions and avoiding eye contact
Q2
An effective strategy to ensure a return visit from a client is to:
Ans.
Q5
Which of the following methods is the most effective way of gaining new clients?
A
Limit your work hours
A
Word of mouth
B
Provide exceptional service
B
Business cards
C
Avoid using a business card
C
Pre-booking
D
Make comparisons with other salons
D
Upselling
Q3
Encouraging clients to schedule another appointment before leaving is a highly effective retention strategy known as:
A
Referrals
B
Upselling
C
Pre-booking
D
Word of mouth
Ans.
Images courtesy of Pivot Point International
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free. 50 / Concept Hair
Ans.
Ans.
Exercises / Winter 2022
COLOUR
Answer the following as true or false.
ANSWER
Q1
A block colour technique can be used to create a focal point
Q2
Slicing technique can be used to create bold panels of colour in a look
Q3
Freehand colour technique can be used to create texture and movement, in a long, graduated form
Q4
To achieve a successful freehand colour result, it is not necessary to plan the colour placement
Q5
Both bold and subtle looks can be achieved using a combination of colour techniques
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER TRUE
FALSE
Images courtesy of Pivot Point International
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free. Concept Hair / 51
Winter 2022 / Exercises
PREVENTING AND RESOLVING PROBLEMS
Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.
Q1
Which one of the following is not a reason for using a colour reducer?
Ans.
Q4
Which one of the following is the best advice to follow when cutting hair with growth patterns?
A
Permanent colour client wants a lighter colour
A
Cut the hair short
B
The client's natural hair is too dark for the chosen colour
B
Leave the hair longer
C
Incorrect colours were used, resulting in the hair being too dark
C
Work against the growth pattern
D
Repeated overlapped applications of hair colour have left the hair too dark
D
Work with the growth pattern
Q2
Which one of the following describes when a spot-colour technique would be used?
Ans.
Q5
Which one of the following is the most important reason for keeping the hair damp throughout the cutting process?
A
Colour result too light
A
To maintain even tension
B
Colour result too dark
B
To look professional
C
Woven result has seepage
C
To see the growth patterns
D
Hair is resistant to colour
D
To see the shape created
Q3
Which one of the following describes when a pre-pigmenting (pre-colouring) service would be required?
A
When colouring the hair darker than the natural base shade
B
When colouring lightened hair darker
C
When the hair is too dark to achieve the target shade
D
When the hair is resistant to colour
Ans.
Images courtesy of Pivot Point International
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free. 52 / Concept Hair
Ans.
Ans.
A R NE
TH
OF
TH
R
LE
Learner of the Month / Winter 2022
E MON
#ConceptHairLOTM
Aug 2021 winner DIANA TELES
Now 21, Diana has been hairdressing since the age of 16. She currently has an apprenticeship at Halo Westcliff in Westcliff-on-Sea, working towards her NVQ Level 3 qualification. In the near future, Diana is hoping to expand her knowledge in barbering and learn about facial hair. On winning Learner of the Month, Diana said: “It feels amazing, I couldn’t be happier. I hope this is my first of many awards. It gives me a lot more confidence and desire for all the hard work coming.” Diana won an Elchim 8th Sense Hairdryer from Salons Direct.
Concept Hair Learner of the Month celebrates hairdressing and barbering students and apprentices who have gone that extra mile.
T
he award, which is open to all full-time learners and apprentices, aims to celebrate the amazing work that upcoming talent in the industry is producing. There is a prize usually worth at least £100 for the winning hairdresser or barber each month – and you will feature in our online Hall of Fame and in the next issue of Concept Hair!
sep 2021 winner
Oct 2021 winner
Caitlin currently has an apprenticeship with Fresh Hair in Leicester, while also receiving education from training provider, Heart of England Training.
Lauren has dreamed of being a hairdresser from a very young age. Now, aged 18, she is studying Level 2 Hairdressing at West Suffolk College.
When asked what made her want to get into the industry, Caitlin said: “I love creativity and art so when I began to think about career paths I found myself really liking the idea of being a hairdresser, to transform people’s hair and to help people’s confidence. It has become a real passion.”
After completing her level 2, Lauren is hoping to go onto level 3 and start an apprenticeship to further develop her skills and explore her creative side even more.
CAITLIN TALBOT
Caitlin’s ultimate ambition is to own a salon and have her own brand of products. Caitlin won the Joico Hydrasplash collection of haircare products.
LAUREN JESSOP
“My ambition is to become a colour specialist, but I would also love to carry on being creative and doing hair up,’ said Lauren.” Lauren won the Cloud Nine Sericite Professional Collection Irons and The Airshot Hairdryer, which she said she would “use all the time”.
nov 2021 winner MIA MELLOR
Mia has been working as a hairdresser for a year and is still only 17 years old. She is an apprentice at Huddersfield-based salon, Deon Hunter Hair, while also attending The Link training academy in the same town. Mia’s ambitions include running her own salon one day, so that she can employ and inspire the next generation of hairdressers. “I feel very proud of myself for achieving Concept Hair’s Learner of the Month,” said Mia. “I have entered a few times now and I feel very happy that I’ve finally won.” Mia won products from Alterna’s Caviar Anti-aging and My Hair My Canvas ranges.
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