EM - Profumeria Selettiva 6-22

On the cover: Versace pour femmme Dylan Purple, an enchanting fragrance

N. 6 ANNO XLII

SEPTMBER - OCTOBER 2022 BIMONTHLY SETTEMBRE - NOVEMBRE 2022

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE

GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991

Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena

Printing:

Faenza Group SpA

Art Director

Teresa Tibaldi

Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it

Managing Editor

Giuseppe Tirabasso

Editor-in-chief

Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it

Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard

Consultants

Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca BonelliRoberto Cimarosa - Valerie KaminovRebecca Lazzari - Joan RundoSimona Verga - Catherine Wrenn

P.R. Promotion

Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni

COMPANY

16 Versace 30 Astra

40 Mavive

44 Nouba 46 Aqua di Sorrento

48 Bellagio

50 Jeep

52 Atelier Fragranze Milano

76 Farotti Essenze

80 Layla Cosmetics

82 SwissOxx

84 Best Color 88 Lumson

97 Opac

118 Voskanian Parfums 120 Omnia Profumi

EVENTS

12 MEADFA

14 Tax Free Cannes

42 Cosmoprof Asia

94 Cosmoprof Bologna Worldwide 122 Pitti Fragranze 126 Beauty Istanbul

INTERVIEW

4 Lorenzo Villoresi: L. Villoresi

8 Payot: M.L. Simonin Braun, R. Chastenet

20 Nichebox: D. Pace

26 Italart: A. Tanzi

32 Teaology: C. Garofano, P. Bevegni

60 Forma Italiana: C. Gabbai

64 Rudy Profumi: C. Calabrese

70 Carlotha Ray: A. Orunesu, M. Schwarz Montiel, M. Duriez

90 Baccarose: B. Anthony

92 Leijtens Import: E. Leijtens

112 New Cosmesy: F. Cinque

114 Calé: S. Levi

LAUNCH

34 Transvital

36 Byblos

54 Iceberg

56 Pink Sugar

124 Agatho Parfum

REPORT

98 India – Valérie Kaminov

ADVERTISERS’ LIST

47 Aqua Sorrento 28-29 Astra

13 Baralan

127 BeautyIstanbul 49 Bellagio

85 Best Color

37 Byblos

104 Beautyworld Middle East – Dubai 69 Carlotha Ray

23 Clive Christian 78 Cosmobeauté Indonesia 62 Cosmobeauté Malaysia 38 Cosmoprof Asia 24 Cosmoprof Bologna

75 Farotti Essenze 55 Iceberg

51 Jeep 79 Layla Cosmetics

87 Lumson 86 Luxepack 68 Makeup in… 58 Mane 43 Nouba

11 Payot

57 Pink Sugar 39 Police

125 Quintessence 25 Replay

63 Rudy Profumi

3 SwissOxx 31 Teaology 66-67 The Scentist 35 Transvital

Cover-II-1-IV Versace 59 Yuzen

ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

110 Aulentissima

117 Calé

IIII 12 Croisette

11 New Cosmesy 119 Omnia Profumi 106-107 Xerjoff

SUBLIME PLATINUM COLLECTION

URBAN DETOX COLLECTION

PURE COLLECTION

LORENZO

VILLORESI

The founder of The maison Lorenzo ViLLoresi reVeaLs his uniVerse of fragrances

EXPORT MAGAZINE: How did your passion for the world of fragrances begin?

Defining him a perfumer is correct, but it is not enough. His passion for fragrances comes from his love for distant journeys but above all from study. Real study. For philosophy and for religions. Thanks to his curiosity and a background in the humanities, Lorenzo Villoresi has succeeded in transposing his culture into the art of making perfumes. His fragrances are like none other and cannot be like any other one, because they are all the result of the same fervid mind and a heart imbued with poetry.

LORENZO VILLORESI: It began as a hobby. In the early 1980s. during some journeys to the Middle East, Egypt, Sudan and Morocco, I immediately noticed the deep bond between the fragrances and everyday life, different from our European habits. Coffee was served naturally with cardamom, tea with mint, cigarettes with amber, the narghile with rose water or orange blossom water. All the tourists who go to these countries are impressed by the markets. The merchants in the suqs, even in those days, knew how to receive people trying to satisfy them in the choice of the fragrances, often created by mixing some ingredients together for example mimosa and lavender which were actually from France. Some proposals on the other hand, were imitations of wellknown fragrances, amongst the best-selling ones of the moment. Others had imaginary names such as Nefertiti, Harem or Papyrus. Curious, I started to bring small amounts back to Italy, for fun for than anything else. I also came across, without knowing it, some old bottles, even some by Baccarat. I used magnificent marble boxes to keep the local fragrances in or other objects that attracted my attention as a young student, avid for every new discovery. Since 1981, the year of my first trip to the Middle East and even after 1986, the year I graduated, I started to lead a sort of parallel life, during the day on books on philosophy, religion and Biblical philology

and at night on the books that discussed distillation and perfumery. Thinking back, I realize that thee was only one guiding thread; my innate desire for knowledge and experimentation. I found what I needed at Bizzarri, a shop in Florence that sold essences, incenses and health and beauty products. It was a fascinating shop with bottles and caps of frosted glass, distillers and alembic stills! Understanding the opportunity to get to know first of all the individual raw materials, I took chemistry lessons and began. Then I had a steel distiller of only10 litres built to ty out tests of distillation, obtaining surprising results. How can I forget the joy in front of the first 2 grams of essence of bay leaf or the inebriating fragrance of distilled rosewater that pervaded the whole room …And at the same time, how not to remember the experiments that failed, as in the case of magnolia which in no way wanted to be transformed into an essence!

EM: Can we say that in perfumery it is allowed to dare?

LV: It is always right to have a penchant for the originality of a proposal. The world is full of nice things! What makes the difference is the real desire, almost the need, to create something new. It is not always simple to succeed in this. We start from a vision, from a dream. If it is not possible to work immediately on the creation of the fragrance, the dream “goes into a drawer”. Later on it will be possible to develop it by creating a new fragrance. It is like a suspended desire. How do you transform an idea into a fragrance? By trying to find some of the main characteristics that strike us to translate the idea into a harmonious set of odorous notes. At times a poem is written that describes this vision and that corresponds to the idea and the fragrance itself. The poem has to seize the soul of the vision.

EM: The sources of inspiration can thus be infinite…

LV: …and different for each one of us, depending on our story and sensitivity. A few days ago, I was reading with my son Alessandro who is studying perfumery in Grasse while collaborating with us, some translations from Plutarch on the subject of the fragrances used during Cleopatra’s parties.

We can read that stones of great value, such as carnelian or malachite were chosen which could become very precious chalices. A similar story is an invitation to a dream and could foster the creation of a new fragrance for new and particular contains for sun care.

I could ‘read’ each fragrance through the vision with which it was created and took shape.

Let’s take for example “Iperborea”, a fragrance which is inspired by the Hyperboreans, a mythical population mentioned in fragments of “The Greek Wisdom” collected by Colli and Montinari.

They lived beyond the Aurora Borealis, in the cold of the ices, and apparently they were immortal. In imagining flowers that come out of the ice, I thought of the snowdrop: all high and very fresh odorous notes, slightly floral, close to the atmosphere of the passages that describe this mythical and very ancient population.

EM: Is the true perfumer the one who is able to make something unique that others cannot, as for all artistic professions, from music to art to writing?

LV: A Maison like ours - a journey of over thirty years –has to express its own identity. It is not enough to make good perfumes. We have an important responsibility that is developed in time, and our work is a work in progress, giving rise and feeding a set of factors that are renewed every day. At the time when the identity of a Maison is expressed through its creations, it becomes fairly difficult for others to try and imitate not simply a fragrance but a whole path.

EM: How can the spirit of a Maison be interpreted over time?

LV: By letting others follow the trends of the moment and at the same time taking your own path, and developing the latent potential relative to the identity of the Maison. If you create a fragrance which respects your philosophy, which expresses authenticity and is part of your discourse over time, it does not matter whether ten, a hundred and a thousand people like it or that it meets the taste of those passionate about fragrance immediately or later. Authenticity and coherence, the “made well” are values which constantly feed the spirit of a Maison with vital sap.

EM: Has being based in Florence, a cradle of art and culture, influenced you in some way?

LV: We say quite simply: “We are based in Florence”. I have fought all my life not to have a style of belonging. “Determinatio condamnatio”: why allow ourselves to be conditioned even because being conditioned by styles that do not belong to us even if they are frequent in perfumery, such as the Victorian or the Baroque? A Maison has to be free to express itself without particular constraints. The artisanal and artistic world of Florence, however, has

been very precious for the production of out collections: the extraordinary manual skills of the artisans has allows producing particular packaging that is highly appreciated. Precious crystals and various types of accessories, using materials that belonged to the art of perfumery that are today unusual, such as marble, travertino marble, alabaster, wood silver and ebony. AS can be noted, one characteristic of the collections is that our fragrances have names in various languages and belong to different periods and cultures. Let’s take for example “Atman Xaman”: not everybody knows that the term Xaman is an archaic form of the word shaman. As a creator of fragrances, I had a secret dream: a fragrance made of leather, tobacco and other ingredients that are seductive, magical and profound like… the shaman himself.

EM: How do foreign markets react to these imaginary names?

LV: Some appreciate them a great deal, while others find it hard to understand them, which is normal. Fr example, the fragrance “Teint de Neige” does not literally mean ‘shade of snow’ but refers to the white complexion of a woman’s face. The names of the fragrances are almost all dreamlike, inspired by myths, fables and legends.

EM: Is the colour element important?

LV: Yes, however we do not have a corporate colour, one that we like more than others. I admit that I prefer silver to gold because it is more dreamlike, linked to the night and to the moon.

EM: The first thirty years marked by such an intense activity must have flown by …. We are sure that there must be a lot of projects on the horizon…

LV: They have flown by too fast…! At the moment there are various activities under way and new fragrances and products under study. New spaces will allow us shortly to expand various types of production.

EM: We have left the subject “Museo Villoresi” until last, but we all know how challenging its creation was and the results are beyond all expectations.

LV: The project of the Museum meets a vocation hat I would call educational - informative. These words can seem a little boring but in our sector there is a lot of advertising and little information. The people who visit our Museum realize the difference. We love the world of the aromatic materials that form the heart of

the Museum; some ingredients are almost perfumes themselves, you just have to try and smell a flower of frangipane, or cistus or bergamot.

In the museum everything is shown and illustrated simply and completely. People of every age and from every part of the world, even from Grasse, come to visit it.

It took us over three years to complete it and I have to recognize that a decisive role was played by my wife, Ludovica, who expressed her artistic gifts in the museum and her botanical skills in the selection of plants linked to the world of perfumery, placed in the garden and on the veranda that are an integral part of the museum space. Our friend the architect Luigi Franco also made an invaluable contribution to the creation of the whole complex.

EM: We notice, not only from the photos at your magnificent head office full of history and humanity, that family is very important for you…

LV: As well as Alessandro and Ludovica, my children Artur and Gemma are also taking an interest in various aspects of the business and their lively participation is a pleasant and invaluable contribution.

Claudia Stagno

PAYOT

naTuraL BeauTY, in moVemenT, driVen BY innoVaTion

PAYOT benefits from its own integrated laboratory at our HQ working through an efficient co-creation process with marketing, customers, consumers, KOL. This organisation promotes resilience and ensures a capacity to deliver novelties as planned i.e.HERBIER showcased at the 2021 TFWA, granted Prix d’Excellence de la Beauté 2022 Marie-Claire.

EM: What are your newsmakers for this new edition of the Tax Free show in Cannes?

MLSB: To maintain our development, we must keep our pace of innovation, premium access positioning and sustainability commitment.

The visitors will discover at our booth a reveal of our new primary and secondary packaging. We reduced by 20% the use of glass in our iconic jar. Our tubes, caps and pumps are now made of 50% of recycled and recyclable plastic. Outer boxes are 100% made from recycled and recyclable cardboard.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: How is PAYOT doing ?

MARIE-LAURE SIMONIN BRAUN: Because of pandemic era, skincare has become an important part of daily routine having positive impacts on both inner and outer beauty. The company resisted well in these disturbed markets being a skincare dedicated brand with a strong international presence. PAYOT strengths also lays in its facialist DNA, a holistic vision of beauty made in France blending product and gesture. The team demonstrated agility and flexibility allowing an over performance in most markets and distribution channels, thanks to a high level of loyalty and proximity with our partners as well as a competitive time to market.

Cannes, is also the place to disclose our new anti-wrinkle and smoothing line “LISSE” : a new skincare ritual where high performance and clean beauty go hand in hand.

PAYOT’s laboratory focused its attention on a major scientific innovation: skin homeostasis ( skin’s ability to maintain a natural physiological balance, including stable hyaluronic acid levels, regardless of conditions).

Each formula contains a duo of hyaluronic acids combined with a complex of plants used in herbal medicine (Swiss Pine/Wild Pansy) to compensate, protect and boost the natural hyaluronic acid reserves of every skin type. Clean, responsible formulas containing up to 98% natural-origin ingredients, PAYOT has selected responsibly sourced, responsibly produced plant extracts.

EM: What are your expectations during the Tax Free show in Cannes?

MLSB: At Cannes existing bonds are consolidated and new opportunities become real. It is indeed our favourite time to meet our existing, partners and share in a professional and friendly environment the challenges of year to go business and next year marketing plans and budget. Overall, it is the perfect place to conquer new territories through new partners and businesses. This year we are willing to accelerate our presence in the sector of amenities, travel retail, duty free stores, airlines, onboard sales, magazine sales.

Visit of our booth (Beach Village II – Booth 14) to discover our offers in an innovative and immersive dimension.

EM: In the future, do you think the skincare will have an even more fundamental role?

MLSB: We have to learn from the cultural conquests gained so far. Being at home longer has taught us to devote more time to ourselves, to our skincare routine and to our well-being. Let’s hope this attitude will become stronger.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: PAYOT and the international markets: what are the latest developments?

RODRIGUE CHASTENET: We have closed the year 2021 on record high turnover, hence our first challenge is to continue this excellent dynamic. Despite inflation and the recent slowdown in consumption in Europe notably, we enjoy an increase of sales at the end of June vs the same period last year.

Our biggest satisfaction is our even development on the five continents. In the Middle East and Africa, we continue registering outstanding performances in leading pharmacies. Our ongoing investments in media, training, merchandising and beauty consultants enabled us to grow twice faster than the market in South-Africa for instance, where we reach top 5 ranking of cosmetic brands in the Dis-Chem chain.

Our activity in Asia Pacific continues delivering great results. To cope with high demands on specifically developed products for the region, we need just-in-time logistic solutions. It has been a challenge especially considering the shortage of container ships and the outrageous cost of air shipping goods. Thanks to our teams’ agility and creativity we managed to supply fully our TV shopping and livestreams operators in South Korea.

We are quite confident this success is a fantastic gateway to our development in China. In northern America, our e-commerce activity is above expectations, and we have great ambitions in Canada where we see opportunities to extend our presence on the whole market, on top of our historical one in Quebec. We continue our expansion in Latin America with the reintroduction of the brand in Argentina and the opening of Peru! Of course, in Europe we still have lots of room to grow though we enjoyed great sell out, notably in Italy and Spain, in professional channel, perfumery chains and online sales.

EM: Is the strategy that you chose, some years ago now, of omni-channel distribution, successful?

RC: It is a winning strategy for us. Our historical positioning in the professional sector is a unique differentiating point. People are seeking emotions and experiences in the way they consume beauty products and our network of 3 500 beauty salons worldwide delivers that. On the retail front, our ranking in the top 2 cosmetic brands in regional chains in France and our recent launch in Marionnaud confirms our excellent partnership approach, offer, and sell out performances in a highly competitive distribution channel. We have a great legitimacy in the pharmacy channel and for specific countries like we’ve discussed in SouthAfrica above, leveraging the heritage of Nadia Payot, the founder of the company who was one of the first female Doctor is an asset we cherish. E-business growth is impressive thanks to an optimised organisation and

a digital/consumer centricity implemented in the recent years. The brand provides advice, assets, tutorials and videos to accompany our partners and consumers in the best way to sell and apply PAYOT products (referring to our e-shops in France, Germany or USA).

Our presence in the Travel Retail is evidence and our moves initiated two years ago are paying off as the industry rebounds. We are very proud to be present on board Tallink & Silja line cruise ships, and many airlines i.e. CorsAir, French Bee, Air Caraîbes, Air Tahiti and many more to come! The quality of PAYOT products have been proven over a century and our price range is unique in the selective framework. Travelling consumers are looking for good value for money brands and entertainment while travelling. Our team agility gives us the possibility to fulfil these needs and allow a wider consumer group to discover our products while we continue expanding our brand visibility.

EM: In 2022. Business was resumed again meeting people in person, do you think this is useful?

RC: It is a necessity! We resumed traveling outside Europe since end of last year and attended quite a few tradeshows already this year such as IAADFS in West Palm Beach, Cosmoprof in Bologna and the Tax Free in Singapore. The enthusiasm is tangible, and we really were boosted by these physical exchanges with our long-lasting partners, recent contacts, and prospects. We have been forced in the past years to reinvent a way of working with long-distance partners and were efficient in reaching our business objectives. We are carefully adjusting and choosing where we travel. From a sustainable point of view this is a major and positive change in our company approach and working habits.

EM: Do you believe your presence at the Tax Free show in Cannes is essential to develop the channel of travel retail?

RC: Absolutely yes! It is a must. Our team is ready: we had the past two years to organize ourselves to cease the momentum of the rebound of the sector. Our products are 100% made in France and it is essential that this show is being host in our home country. Last year we decided to keep our location and investments on the show. Despite a more confidential attendance vs 2019, the outcome proved us we made the right decision! We are thrilled to be part of the new 2022 edition with our beautiful open booth nearby the sea (Beach Village II – booth 14) so to stimulate great business in a unique inspiring place.

Claudia Stagno

INNOVATION

Alpine Pine Polyphenols & Hyaluronic Acid duo 91% ingredients of natural origin

Launch of The meadfa aWards

AN INITIATIVE TO RECOgNIZE DYNAMIC RETAIL SPECIALISTS IN THE MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA

meadfa is pleased to announce the launch of the meadfa awards which recognize innovative, dynamic, world class travel retail specialists in the middle east & africa region

“The award committee encourages companies to nominate themselves and to highlight their outstanding contributions in a variety of business areas. Results will be announced during the MEADFA Conference 2022 taking place on Nov 27-29 in the Kingdom of Bahrain”, says MEADFA Treasurer and Award Committee Chair, Dr. Bernard Creed. MEADFA is launching five awards categories as follows:

1-Best Retailer Award: recognizes leading organizations that have demonstrated excellence across their business, continue to innovate in providing outstanding customer service and have provided a notable contribution to the development of travel retail in the region.

2-Best in Marketing Strategy of the Year Award: recognizes organizations that lead with their marketing approach towards adaptable and customer-driven engagement. This award highlights the use of new and innovative platforms using dynamic innovative content to engage with consumers across the industry.

3-Sustainability and CSR Award: entries can be across one or all of the following sub-categories:

DR. BERNARD CREED, MEADFA TREASURER

MEADFA Award Committee members:

• Dr. Bernard Creed – MEADFA Treasurer

• Ms. Isabel Zarza – MEADFA Vice President

• Mr. Philip Haine – MEADFA Board Member

• Mr. Sherif Toulan – MEADFA President

MR. ShERIF TOuLAN, MEADFA PRESIDENT

• Best Green Achiever

• Best Sustainable Brand

• Sustainable Retailer of the Year

• Best CSR Performance

4-Customer & Supplier Award: entries can be for one or all of the following sub-categories:

• Outstanding Achievement in customer satisfaction

• Innovative supplier of the year

• Ms. Micheline El Ammar – MEADFA Operations Manager.

MEADFA President, Mr. Sherif Toulan stated: “the MEADFA awards celebrate dedication, innovation, achievement, and success. Our objective is to focus on the dynamics of the region and acknowledge those who have made a significant contribution to the development of the Travel Retail Industry in the Middle East and Africa.”

• Excellence in Supplier Collaboration

5-Finally, there will be a Lifetime Achievement Award for which no entry is required. MEADFA will honor an outstanding leader who has made a remarkable contribution to the overall travel retail environment, promoted strong leadership, supports their people, and significantly impacted the overall sustainability, strategy, culture, and development of the industry as a whole.

T fWa cannes 2022

A NEW ERA FOR TRAVEL RETAIL

From October 2 to 6, Cannes will be the venue for the largest duty free and travel retail meeting in the world, with an outstanding number of leading retailers and brands having registered. TFWA can also confirm that the exhibition area stands at an impressive 90% of the floor space reserved at the pre-Covid event.

conference and Workshops

Passenger traffic is rising strongly in most regions after the pandemic and duty free and travel retails sales are reflecting this, However, the expectations of travellers have changed and the industry must adapt and develop new partnerships in order to prosper. The TFWA World Exhibition & Conference 2022 is the ideal place for connections to be made in this new era.

The World Conference, in the Palais des Festivals, will be held in Monday 3 October from 9.00 a.m. to 11.45 a.m. and will open with an address from TFWA President, Erik Juul-Mortensen, followed by conversations with some off the world’s leading figures in economics and branding. Participants will hear from David McWilliams, one of the most authoritative and entertaining voices on economics and geopolitics today, and Raymond Cloosterman, Founder and CO of Rituals, who will address brand building in a changing world. The Conference will also look at life in the Metaverse with the help of a global expert on new digital technologies: Swan Sit, Operating partner of AF Ventures, a leading voice on Clubhouse and the former Global Head of Digital Marketing for Nike, Revlon and Estée Lauder.

The annual cannes event recognizes the need to adapt and develop new partnerships to prosper

T f Wa workshops

Two sessions are scheduled during lunchtime on Tuesday 4 October (The Airport Forum) and Wednesday 5 October (Innovation in Action) in the 15 Studio in the palais des Festivals. The Airport Forum will feature Heathrow Airport Retail & Property Director Fraser Brown, Incheon International Airport Corporation Director Duty Free Management Team Sung Bin Im and Chief Digital and Commercial Officer of Istanbul Airport Ersin Inankul, while Innovation in Action will look at the latest developments in customer engagement courtesy of speakers including Intelligent Track System Founder and CEO Moten Pankoke and Founder and CEO of Inflyter, Wassim Saadé.

exhibitors

Almost 400 exhibitors have confirmed their presence and they will be distributed in the various Villages. New names in cosmetics and perfumery coming to Cannes for the first times include Adopt, Bohobci Perfume, Caron, Linaé, Maison Rebatchi, Molton Brown, Mums with Love, Orientica Perfumes, Scent of Africa. Sensalia Labs and Thameen London.

o ne2o ne meetings

TFWA’s dedicated meeting service organizes introductory encounters between exhibiting brands, key buyers, airports and trade agents. This year is no exception with eligible companies simply naming the participants they want to meet and the ONE2ONE team handles the arrangements, providing on-site support, The meetings take place towards the end of the week.

networking

Networking is an important aspect of the TFWA and this year’s programme starts off with the Get Together on the Carlton Beach on Sunday evening from 7.00 p.m. On Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday evenings from 6.30 p.m. to 9.00 p.m. there is the after-work session at the TFWA Lounge on Carlton Beach, followed by the night-time session from 11.00 p.m. to 2 a.m.

E x HIBITION

SUN 02 OCT.

09:00 - 18:00

Registration Gare Maritime 19:00

Get Together

Carlton Beach

MON 03 OCT.

09:00 - 18:30

Registration Gare Maritime 09:00 - 11:45

Conference Grand Auditorium, Palais des Festivals

12:00 - 18:30

Exhibition Palais des Festivals

12:00 - 18:30

TFWA i.lab

Palais des Festivals

18:30 - 21:00

TFWA Lounge: after-work session

Carlton Beach

23:00 - 02:00

TFWA Lounge: night-time session

Carlton Beach

TUE 04 OCT.

09:00 - 18:30

Registration Gare Maritime

09:00 - 18:30

P

ROGRAMME

WED 05 OCT.

08:00 - 12:00

Management Committee election (for TFWA members only)

TFWA office, Level 0

Palais des Festivals

Exhibition & TFWA i.lab

Palais des Festivals

09:00 - 18:30

TFWA i.lab

Palais des Festivals

12:30 - 14:00

TFWA Airport Forum Workshop

Hi5 Studio, Level 5, Palais des Festivals

18:30 - 21:00

TFWA Lounge: after-work session

Carlton Beach 23:00 - 02:00

TFWA Lounge: night-time session

Carlton Beach

09:00 - 18:30

Registration Gare Maritime 09:00 - 18:30

Exhibition & ONE2ONE meetings & TFWA i.lab

Palais des Festivals

12:30 - 14:00

Innovation in Action Workshop

Hi5 Studio, Level 5, Palais des Festivals

18:30 - 21:00

TFWA Lounge: after-work session

Carlton Beach

23:00 - 02:00

TFWA Lounge: night-time session Carlton Beach

ThU 06 OCT. 09:00

TFWA’s Annual General Meeting (for TFWA members only)

Auditorium K, Level 4 Palais des Festivals

09:00 - 17:00

Registration Gare Maritime 09:00 - 17:00

Exhibition & ONE2ONE meetings

Palais des Festivals

09:00 - 17:00

TFWA i.lab Palais des Festivals

The iconic fashion house of Versace presents new fragrances produced and distributed by EuroItalia, an Italian excellence in fragrance manufacturing.

V ersace

THE DYLAN FRAGRANCE FOR WOMEN GROWS

Dy LAN P u RPLE

Turquoise and

This is a bright and elegant fragrance: the top notes of sparkling bergamot are blended with the joyful tones of an orange that has just been plucked off a tree. Luscious pear adds a hint of modernity to an accord that is as addictive as it is vibrant. The inebriating scents of freesia give an explosion of bright purple colour, while the delicate aroma of its petals is sublimated by Mahonial® and Pomarose ®, both diffuse and powerful. Belambre ® and Ambrofix™ provide an assertive, elegant and vibrant tone underlined by soft Iso E Super ad creamy Cedarwood. Silkolide ® signs the fragrance with a musky note and slightly fruity accents.

Created by perfumer Christophe Raynaud of Givaudan, Dylan Purple is, he says, “an invitation to travel. A fresh, fruity and addictive opening, like a tribute to the iced delights of Italy and its iconic citrus. The floral heart is the representation of a hypnotic sunset by the water. Purple reflections and a delicate scented breeze.

Finally vibrant woods and the elegance of musk to recall the golden and reassuring sand.”

The Dylan Purple bottle is an expression of innovative Versace design. Elegant curves are reminiscent of an amphora, strongly evoking the classical culture and mythology that runs deep through the Versace imagination. The glass and packaging are purple, with details finished in rose gold. The aluminium cap is embossed with the Medusa Head and engraved with the name f the fragrance. Baroque-style letters spell out the brand name around the shoulder of the bottle.

The new Versace Dylan Purple Fragrance is available as Eau de Parfum in 30 ml, 50 ml and 100 ml natural sprays, Perfumed Hair Mist 30 ml, Perfumed Bath and Shower Gel 200 ml tube and Perfumed Body Lotion 200 ml tube.

The advertising campaign for Dylan Purple features Iris Law who, according to Chief Creative Officer Donatella Versace, is “a true Versace girl. For me she is the perfect face for our fragrance. She brings it to life with great personal style, energy and fun.” This is Iris’s second campaign for the brand following this year’s La Vacanza campaign. Director Gordon Von Steiner has created a visual continuation from his previous Versace Dylan Turquoise fragrance campaign starring Hailey Bieber, with innovative fluid camera movements that rotate from scene to scene, sunrise to sunset, bikini outfits to beautiful party dresses, creating a sense of an immersive “Versacesphere.”

Dy LAN Tu R qu OISE

“An ode to the sensuality of the Versace woman” is how Donatella Versace describes this fragrance. Created with natural and synthetic ingredients of the finest quality, obtained from traceable and sustainable supply chains throughout the world, it meets the highest standards in terms of environmental and social sustainability. The fragrance opens with Primofiore Lemon, considered the finest quality, giving a highly characteristic starting point, with a slightly acidic but constant green note. The Lemon is accompanied by Italian Mandarin from Sicily, combining odour molecules from the peel and flesh of the fruit to offer a multi-faceted note. Even more exuberance is given to the top notes by pink peppercorn, with a scent similar to red berries. In the heart, a special accord enhances the freshness of Guava juice, for an enduring exotic and tropical undertone. For a fresh and airy feel, the Guava is complemented by transparent Jasmine Petals with

a floral profile enhanced by the essence of freesia, turning the composition into a modern green. The fragrance’s sensuality lies in its modern woods. The base notes fall between light and shade. Where Clearwood® combines an amber sensuality with a woody character, leaving no trace of the earthy and camphor notes typical of these essences. Made from sugarcane, this original molecule is the first to be created by biotechnology and is a exclusive natural ingredient that is the fruit of research, Combined with a cocktail of vibrant woods and white musk, it lends modernity to this prestigious fragrance.

The frosted glass bottle is in hues of blue, reflecting the crystal-clear waters of the sea and denoting a constant desire for summer. The details are in ale gold and the aluminium cap is embossed with the Medusa Head and engraved with the name of the fragrance. Around the shoulder of he bottle, Baroque-style letters spell out the brand name.

“Dylan Blue pour femme is a tribute to femininity. It is a strong, sensuous, refined fragrance created for a woman who knows the power of her sensuality and mind,” is how Donatella Versace describes this creation. It is an alchemy of irresistible notes that dance, arouse, come together and embrace. Refreshing blackcurrant sorbet and Granny Smith apple create an unusual fruity accord. In this contemporary floral bouquet, flowers transform in an icy infusion of imaginary wild blooms with an unforgettable sillage. Woody base notes playfully mix together to create a unique elixir: styrax and white woods polished by water; musk and patchouli coeur blend in a captivating, sensuous and vibrant movement. The bottle is the expression of innovative design, with its elegant curves bringing to mind an amphora, evoking Greek culture and mythology.

The colour of the bottle and the packaging is as intense as the Mediterranean: strong, deep and mysterious. Gold details and the iconic Medusaa bridge between past and present – embellish its precious content. The communication campaign for this fragrance transports viewer into the idyllic world of Versace. Using fluid and innovative camera movements to define the sense of gravity, we are drawn into timeless situations, where the blue of the sea meets the colourful world of Versace. Circular movements reveal the protagonist, Bella Hadid, on a beautiful beach, switching from group situations with secondary characters, to intimate sensual moments in and out of the water.

A glamorous, sensual and light narrative and aesthetic that turn the familiar into the new, the ordinary into the extraordinary and the beach into a Versace world.

Dy LAN B L u E

NICHEBOX

a Precise mission: To Be a cenTre of eXceLLence for The Brands of arTisTic PerfumerY, sKincare and BodYcare

EXPORT MAGAZINE: When was your company started?

DINO PACE: In 2018, from an entrepreneurial idea of mine and of Yulia Coulon, our Marketing Director, with the participation of some partner friends - and a private Swiss equity firm - who, by financing this project, allowed us to make acquisitions and build up an organization that can, year after year, operate professionally.

EM: One of the sectors you addressed is that of artistic perfumery, why?

DP: We made some considerations on this section of the market. There is a great deal of creativity and often some brands lack the capital, or the structure or the managerial knowledge: these properties, if put alongside creativity, can mean that a specific brand is successful on the market. Even brands of larger dimensions can need a time around and strengthen their reason d’être, evolving while respecting tradition.

From the very beginning our strategy has been to make up a portfolio with complementary brands, each with their own visibility and without overlaying one another. It is important that each brand is interesting and that it can be worked reasoning with a logic of medium to long term. We do not consider ourselves ‘private equitiers’, we do not operate like traditional financial investors that aim to obtain results in the short term, we are aware that our brands can stay “on the back stove” for several years and come out when the market conditions allow. For example, as well as perfumes, we are exploring the world of luxury skincare and body care.

EM: How is the company structured?

DP: Nichebox has a direct presence in various territories, to operate locally on various markets; in the UK, where there is our head office, in France, Italy, Russia, the Middle East and the USA, with the perspective of opening in the Far East as well.

EM: You came into being already with an international character….

DP: Absolutely yes. It is a pure coincidence that we are Italian entrepreneurs and that the holding company is Italian. Operations are carried out on several fronts, it

INTERVIEW WITH DINO PACE, CEO NICHEBOX

starts from London and continues in Paris, Milan and Miami. Italy, which we consider an important market, represents 8% of our turnover, showing how the global turnover is well distributed over the geographical areas.

EM: What are the advantages?

DP: A strong multinational and multicultural character represents a very great strength. Our collaborators belong to a wide variety of nationalities, on the various continents.

EM: Tell us about your brands, starting from Clive Christian.

DP: The story of Clive Christian is fascinating, of how we can, respecting the identity of the brand, with a strong imprinting of history and tradition, give a contemporary and fresh touch. In one year - in the period of the forced idleness for the world – we completed a relaunch strategy by acting on some weak points at the financial and distribution level. Now the brand is travelling with doubledigit growth, and the sell-out is excellent. Last year we grew by 35-38% on the main markets; this year by 15%. These are record results and I mention the United States as an example of a performance well beyond expectations, even though we decided to end some commercial relations. We also started to operate with some independent stores, which represent the real culture of artistic perfumery and can influence the market. The brand is growing considerably in the Middle East, in Russia, despite the current situation; Asia and Latin America are launching positive signals towards artistic perfumery and we will certainly benefit from this in the near future. For example we have strong requests for the brand from China. In Europe, we have decided to work more in depth on the right positioning and we hope that this strategy will soon prove us right. We are moving on new projects in other categories of goods: the brand has granted a licence to a third company for the design and production of bespoke furniture. This new partner is investing enormously in the United States, where it already has a showroom of more

than 1000 square metres in Chicago and will open one in September in Los Angeles with the perspective of opening a third one in New York by the end of the year and another two in Miami and Dallas in 2023. There will then be a subsequent opening in the Middle East. In their showrooms our perfumes will be showcased and sold to high-net-worth individuals who are searching for something unique to wear on their skin.

EM: 2022 is an important year for Clive Christian…

DP: It is the year in which it celebrates the 150th anniversary of the Crown Perfumery Company, established in 1872 by Sir Walter Thompson. It also coincides with the new phase of development of our company; to underline the importance of this date, we are organizing a special and very important event in early November in London, with all our partners. We will have extraordinary experiences together, set in the historical period. Naturally with the participation of our brand ambassador Victoria Christian, and of Clive Christian himself.

EM: Can you remind our readers of how ‘The Crown Collection’ started…

DP: Clive Christian founded his company in 1999, taking over ‘The Crown Perfumery’. The original creator of the brand was Walter Thomson who, in 1872, was the personal perfumer of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert; Thomson, a corset manufacturer, created smelling salts as women, because their corsets were too tight often fainted. From salts scented with lavender, Thomson started to create fragrances at artisan level, commissioned for the bride and groom, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. This was how “1872” started, the main ingredient of which was orange blossom. When Prince Albert died, Queen Victoria, to thank Walter Thompson for his services, offered him the perpetual right to reproduce the effigies of the crown on the Perfumes he created. This is how the Crown Perfumery came into being with the typical crown cap. The Crown Perfumery expanded in both hemispheres; famous characters such

as Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin were regular clients of the brand. This Collection is linked with a fantastic archive, with many product names, formulas and ideas we can still draw on. A priceless capital.

EM: Liquides Imaginaires is another very particular brand…

DP: This fascinating brand has accompanied us since the beginning of our activity. The fragrances have a very strong personality. Philippe Di Méo is making a journey of creativity that goes from identifying the story, which is not an olfactory story but a real narrative which can be sparked off by his imagination or by personal experiences in Philippe’s own life. The fragrance is a medium which can unlock the doors of an imaginary, evocative and experiential world. Symbolism and spirituality are the guiding thread that is found in cultures all over the world and in the use of certain ingredients. This lets the brand be distinguished by features that are evocative on all markets, as it speaks a universal language, which each person can interpret in their own way. The elements that form the mix of this brand means that it cannot be duplicated. Its success is acclaimed from East to West and the main market, although it is growing everywhere, is Russia. The fragrances vary from some more persistent ones and others that are lighter; in Japan they prefer the fragrance called “Phantasma”. It is a real pleasure to work and discuss with Philippe who, as well as being the Creative Director and founder of the brand, is also our partner.

EM: What have you added to your portfolio?

DP: We wanted to include a brand of Italian tradition in our portfolio. We turned to a brand which about 30 years ago had a very strong identity on the Italian market: Hanorah. We benefited from the experience of Hanorah in terms of product and R & D, to launch a new concept, which could be appetizing at international level. This has led to ORA, which is a spin-off of Hanorah. The innovation consists of two elements: there are no prepacked products to buy

but, mixing a booster with a cream and an essence for your skin type, you can customise your skin care regime directly on the palm of your hand, having up to 7 different products; and then you can adapt your skin care regime to the changing needs of your skin, simply choosing a different booster. Less waste, no fuss, only what you need! We have signed a partnership for the Middle East with Al Tayer for the launch of the brand in the whole region, at its own points of sale and in various department

CLIVE CHRISTIAN

stores. It is a real partnership where both our structures are committed to promoting the sell-out of this new concept of making cosmetics to a maximum.

EM: Last, but not least, Acque d’Italia…

DP: Here too we are dealing with an existing brand which was distributed in the masstige channel. We have revolutionized it completely: a new logo – a blue seahorse –the label in relief, the experience during use. The packaging is made of recycled plastic.

The inspiration comes from the Roman thermal baths, the names of the fragrances are in Latin. The products, very pleasant and moisturizing, come in 5 scents. The colour that characterizes the line, blue, recalls the purity and the freshness of the waters of the Mediterranean. It is inspired by a real Italianess and ensures pleasant sensations of well-being. As it is a medium-high level line of body care, in Italy it will not be sold in more than 200 doors, and it will also follow this type of distribution abroad.

The Clive Christian brand, acquired by Nichebox in 2019, is synonymous with timeless classics made without compromise. Composed of exquisite ingredients, with intense and complex formulations and the ultimate craftsmanship. Blending royal British history with visionary flair to stand outside time. For highly expressive, uniquely personal perfumes of pure perfume pleasure: the ultimate form of self-expression. They are unique in having the reproduction of the British crown as their cap, a privilege received from thee heirs of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, for whom the original founder created fragrances.

ACQUE DI ITALIA

This is a new Italian body brand inspired by the bathing ritual in Ancient Rome. It brings together a celebration of tradition, elegance and well-being, and unlocks a new world that enchants the senses in an aromatic cloud. Acque di Italia nurtures both the body and mind through a range of products and fragrances. The ancient Romans escaped to the tranquillity of thermal baths, discovering the power of self-care, pampering and inner peace to create moments of calm. Acque di Italia has as its mission the recreation of the same feelings inspired by moments of serenity. Nichebox acquired this brand in 2020.

LIQUIDES IMAGINAIRES

The French brand of Liquides Imaginaires, acquired by Nichebox in 2018, creates fragrances with great symbolic power. These unique, challenging and complex fragrances go beyond perfume. They are composed, like poems, to evoke various mental states, desires and feelings in the wearer, unlocking their imagination, awakening heir spirit, and taking hem to a realm beyond the ordinary. They are volatile bodies that take the wearer beyond the material world. Liquides Imaginaires transform imagination into liquid matter.

ORA

Ora is the bespoke Italian skincare range that offers solutions for all skin types and concerns. This totally personalized skincare system is designed to meet all the needs of the skin, each and every day. The products are completely clean and kind and are made in Italy without parabens, allergens, silicones, alcohol or mineral oils, but powerful active ingredients are used that deliver real results. Ora was acquired by Nichebox in 2020.

Claudia Stagno

iTaLarT

A COMPANY PROJECTED TOWARDS THE FUTURE

It was in Parma, the cradle of Italian perfumery, that over fifty years ago Italart started to make and offer successful fragrances. A recent acquisition is the prestigious John Richmond licence and the company has recently signed an agreement for the creation and distribution of fragrances and related products with Fashion Box, a leading company in premium denim and casualwear, which controls the Replay brand.

REPLAy: THE NEW LICENCE FROM ITALART

The exclusive worldwide licence has recently started (in July 2022) with the launch of the new line of natural body fragrances Earth Made. The project is inspired by a capsule collection of Replay apparel totally made from organic fibres and dyed with eco-certified ZDHC mineral pigments, embracing the philosophy of the reconnection with the planet Earth. Earth Made comes in four natural body fragrances with names that pay tribute to the colours of the earth: Tuscany Yellow, Antartica Blue, Amazonian Green, Arizona Orange, to be translated into a vibrant palette of understated bottles in recycled glass. There are four genderless fragrances, 100% vegan, of certified natural origin and with totally ecogreen packaging. The body natural eau de toilette excel for sustainability; with extracts of Thalassogaia and Phytogaia, they contain alcohol of lant origin, guaranteeing a long persistence of the scent to covey maximum physical and mental well-being and the beneficial effects of the natural extracts. The Planet Earth project is the perfect expression of the DNA and of the strong identity of Replay and is in line with the ethical and sustainable approach of Fashion Box, while according to Alberto Tanzi, CEO of Italart, the two companies share dynamism, values and an emic and ethical approach.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: ITALART is a company with an all-Italian story. You are the third generation. Can you illustrate your journey?

ALBERTO TANZI: ITALART is a family business which was founded over fifty years ago, in the time of the economic boom, when everything was easy fun and successful. Today it is another world, everything has changed and this recent period of the pandemic has further accelerated this process. It is neither better nor worse, it is only very, very different. The products have changed, as have the ways of communicating and distribution. Our philosophy to be successful is based on the diversification of the product (perfumes under licence, house brands and private label), of client and distribution, on maximum flexibility and fast reactions. Fragrance is our core business in all its forms of expression.

EM: You are traditionally specialized in alcoholic perfumery, with your own production plant. What are the requisites, from when a licence is acquired, to create successful fragrances on international markets, including the Italian one?

AT: Effectively there are only a few of us left that still have our own production plant and we are holding on to it very tightly. It allows us to have greater quality

Alberto tAnzi

control and a productive flexibility that otherwise we could not even dream of. As far as the success of a licence is concerned, I think that it is fundamental to enter, as if we were actors, into the part of the brand, working in close synergy, exalting the strengths and the main points with fragrances and packaging that reflect the lifestyle of the brand.

EM: Which brands are in your portfolio? Are there any new arrivals?

AT: At the moment the brands under licence and proprietary brands include Replay, John Richmond, Rocco Barocco, Ipure and Battistoni.

EM: Sustainability is a topic that is close to the hearts of each and everyone of us. What is Italart’s commitment in this regard?

AT: I think that every company projected towards the future absolutely has to take this requirement into account, therefore we are also very sensitive to the subject. We are actually developing an all-round super-sustainable project: from the packaging to the way of processing the fragrance, also trying to limit to a minimum the polluting emissions thanks to a production with a zero carbon footprint.

Claudia Stagno

who represents the third generation of the family, then illustrates the evolution of the journey of one of the oldest italian companies, today a leading player on the market with perfume under licence and house brands

OUTLINE WATERPROOF LIP PENCIL IS THE RETRACTABLE PENCIL THAT DELIVERS AN INTENSE, GLIDING LINE ON THE LIPS ALREADY ON THE FIRST COAT.

THE TEXTURE IS LIGHT AND THIN BUT ITS WATERPROOF COMPONENT GUARANTEES MAXIMUM RESISTANCE AND LONG-LASTING EFFECT.

asT ra

The principles on which the Astra Social Responsibility are based are: the product, the planet and people.

Starting from the product, which is always conceived and developed in the heart of Umbria and made by the best Italian and European suppliers, following criteria of accessibility, performance and quality of the ingredients, but also attention to packaging and the elimination of secondary packaging.

“Meeting the needs of the present generation without compromising those of the future generation” is the mantra of our times: this is the definition of sustainable development, today a global and transversal objective thanks to the Agenda 2030 of the United Nations. Why is it so important to pursue this goal? The goals of sustainable development define a new model of society, according to criteria of greater responsibility in social, environmental and economic terms, aimed at avoiding the collapse of the earth’s ecosystem. In this plan, everyone can play their part, from companies to final consumers.

Many years ago Astra embarked on the path of sustainability, an activity which sees the company involved in the field of Social Responsibility guided in the first place by an attentive and conscious interpretation of data.

Measuring the environmental impact of the whole value chain allows defining the sustainability objectives and strategies and means that they are integrated in all the corporate processes and that in their turn they can be monitored and transferred to the final consumer, with the maximum transparency, a distinctive feature of the brand.

“Despite the difficult period that the world has been going through in the past two years, Astra has kept its commitment for sustainability which has always been at the centre of the promise of Giufra and the Astra trademark towards society and the future. We strongly feel the urgency to respect the Sustainable Development Goals identified by the United Nations for 2030 and this is why we wanted to take as reference the requisites for joining the Global Compact Network Italia, committing , performance ourselves to respecting the 10 principles promoted by the Network such as respect for human rights, the elimination of forced labour and every form of discrimination, the fight against corruption and the active protection of the environment, evaluating officially joining or the next three years,” said Lucia Menghella, CEO of Astra. The future is full of innovations for the beauty world and Astra, which plays a leading role in this industry, is present with a conscious and renewed corporate policy, pursuing operating and financial objectives alongside a clear vision on environmental, social and governance topics.

This aspect is directly connected with the planet, with the company constantly committed to the processes of ReduceRecycle-Reuse against waste in all the chain from packaging to marketing the product.

Lastly, but not by importance, the focus always remains on the value of people, both inside and outside the company, to carry on the value of inclusiveness and promoting diversity, concepts which have always been at the centre of the brand’s philosophy, expressed by the claim “Beauty is diversity”, which collects around the communication and digital activities a large group of very loyal Astra Lovers, real accredited partners with whom the company dialogues on a daily basis.

These are the distinctive features of the Astra Family, which today count on a consolidated presence on over 35 countries in Europe, South America, the Middle East and Asia, but which intends to continue on it path always guided by its “lucky star.”

SUSTAINABILITY UNDER THE SIgN OF

SIMONE SETTIMI, GENERAL MANAGER OF ASTRA MAKE UP

LuCIA MENGhELLA, CEO OF ASTRA MAKE UP

Todi, headquarters of the Giufra company

Cecilia Garofano, Teaology’s founder, with her husband Paolo Bevegni, co-founder

TEAOLOgY

for a modeL of cosmeTics WiTh a PosiTiVe imPacT

INTERVIEW WITH CECILIA GAROFANO, FOUNDER OF TEAOLOGY

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Six years from its foundation, Teaology is at an important turning-point. What is it?

CECILIA GAROFANO: Yes, we are proud to say that in July 2022 we joined this global movement called B-CORP, started at in the early 2000s in the United States to measure the environmental performances and the impact of companies at environmental level. There are 180 Italian companies that are following this initiative, and 5000 in the world. This organization, through its structure of evaluators, establishes to what extent a business’s work, product and method of production have an impact on the planet, all through a series of standard and fundamental guidelines. The topic of sustainability is more complex than it seems, and it cannot be measured by the last gesture we do, for example that of deciding where to throw way certain materials.

The path starts much earlier, from the choice of the raw materials, which rightly should come from renewable sources. For example, if we use the oil from a very rare Antarctic plant, then we have to be aware of using a rare raw material. Which probably is not renewable, and therefore has to be used responsibly. The process begins upstream, from the choice of raw materials and suppliers. We have chosen to work only with those suppliers who have a whole series of ISO certifications and who use production systems often with renewable energy, with a low waste of water. The choice of the packaging is fundamental; the subject is ambivalent, at times recycled materials are used but to obtain these more energy and water are used compared to the same virgin material. Ever since we started operating, we decided to limit our impact as much as possible, whatever our dimension, now and in the future, as we are aware of how important the topic of waste is for the cosmetics industry. This is why we need someone who can measure our performances. For us, becoming B-Corp means having reached a great objective; we are aware that it is only a starting point, because we will be evaluated every three years; they have now assigned us a score which we will try to improve, to be reconfirmed as B-Corp. In addition to this, Teaology has become a Benefit Company, in this regard, we have changed our Articles

of Association, including in the company purpose that the ultimate purpose of Teaology is happiness, wellbeing and environmental sustainability of which we are all a part, from the suppliers to our employees and clients. We are pleased that B-Corp is creating in its organization an area for beauty companies; I hope that through B-Corp we can work more as a team with other Italian companies. On our side, we have already activated collaborations with companies in sectors other than beauty. The aim is to make visible the Italian excellence such as cosmetics, which in my opinion is not sufficiently known internationally. As is known, private label manufacturing is recognized more.

INTERVIEW WITH PAOLO BEVEGNI, TEAOLOGY’S CO-FOUNDER

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Six years from the start of your activity, it is time to speak about the goals reached to date. We know that you have explored many markets and achieved ambitious objectives in a relatively short time. What is this due to?

PAOLO BEVEGNI: In six years, two of which were rather slow due to the reasons everyone knows, we have been able to be present in about 30 countries around the world. Both because of the type of professional experience of the past, and because tea is the most popular beverage in the world after water, our international vocation can only be confirmed. We lie to say that Teaology is present from Singapore to Canada and it is exactly like that. The approach to the brand is always positive, at every latitude, from Asia, where tea is a fundamental part of the culture, but also to southern Europe, where the culture of tea is more recent and less deeply rooted. If the interest in this project was high from the very beginning –tea represents something positive, which reinvigorates and gives a good mood – we then had to, to conquer consumers, offer products of quality where efficacy is the real weapon to establish our clientele. In addition to the beneficial properties of tea which naturally we took advantage of from the technical point of view, it was also important to create a line with a serious cosmetic-

EM: Is the fact of being B-Corp influencing the way you make your products?

CG: Even before becoming B-Corp, we included in our team a person who operates full-time to improve what we do. Since 2016, there is not one product that has not been improved, from the formulas to the packaging.

Fortunately, technology is improving continuously and offers us, each year, materials with a lower environmental impact, and using them we will be able to pursue our model of positive cosmetics. Again with the aim of ‘making the difference for the planet and for its inhabitants’, we have invested in projects supporting the women who work in the tea plantations.

scientific approach. We have products for each cosmetic requirement, to each are added ingredients that aim to give safe and effective results. Then there are also the pleasant fragrances and, as Cecilia points out, the continuous search for ingredients and solutions with a low environmental impact. We were amongst the first brands on the market to carry on this subject and now we are rewarded with a sell-out that I would define almost spontaneous.

EM: Are you present in the duty free channel?

PB: Teaology has found a very fast development in duty free. Fortunately, last year air traffic resumed and now it is increasingly promising. In the last year, from the show in Cannes 221 to August 2022, we have opened sales in 30 airports in European and nonEuropean countries. In my opinion this objective has been reached quickly because after many years, before the pandemic, when new products were not tested in the duty free stores, many operators today are looking for innovative brands, to put alongside known products at a price which is only just advantageous. Without false modesty, I would say that our brand is considered one of the pioneers of a certain way of making cosmetics, in the line of clean beauty. We define Teaology as ‘clean’ and ‘clinic’, to add value to the simple concept of ‘clean’. Our products are clean by nature, in addition to which they are clinically tested to guarantee the cosmetic result. At

the 2022 Tax Free show in Cannes we will be presenting ad hoc proposals, with a dedicated merchandising, in order to attract more and more the attention of those operators who are turning towards a new type of offer. The consumer, the tea lover, just as they look for something new on their local market, also do so in travel retail. The duty free channel is undergoing a deep transformation; in the cosmetic sector, for example, the price motivation has fallen in the last few years, and the drive to purchase is the same on local markets and in the duty free stores. The consumer, as well as purchasing mainstream brands, likes to go scouting at the duty free as well, to the extent that travel retail has created dedicated areas, as for artistic perfumery for a few years. Such a fast development in airports, on the airlines and other important venues of the travel market have pleasantly surprised us. The presence of Teaology in this channel allows is a great visibility at international level, letting usual clients in the various countries purchase their favourite products even when they are travelling.

Claudia Stagno

TRANSVITAL

PRESENTS THE NEW P ERFECTIN g C OLLA g EN M ASK

The new Perfecting Collagen Mask born from the Transvital cosmetic expertise: even more exclusive, with a ceramic glass bowl for a truly intensive collagen treatment. An innovative product of the Transvital Perfecting line, specialized in sophisticated antiaging treatments with particularly effective results. Thanks to high quality botanical and mineral active ingredients in the advanced formula it gives visible and long-lasting results.

Perfection without surgery

hOW TO USE

After cleansing and toning the face, take a bag of Perfecting Collagen Mask and extract the collagen mask. Fold the mask back and place it inside the ceramic glass Bowl. Pour the bottle with the activator complex and soak the mask completely. The mask is ready to be placed on the face for a 20-30 minutes treatment.

The collagen mask can be used as an intensive treatment once a week for 5 weeks cycle or as a maintenance treatment, twice a month.

As an instant beauty treatment, it is recommended to use it whenever you want to eliminate signs of fatigue, including redness and dehydration.

The Perfecting Collagen Mask Transvital is a velvety biomatrix composed by a network of collagen fibers that reproduces the structure of the skin and acts as biological lifting, revitalizing, intensive, energizing and firming treatment. The exclusive release system helps to reduce wrinkles and small expression lines, it helps to promote hydration and to strengthen collagen and elastin fibers.

Perfecting Collagen Mask is based on Transvital Proactive Complex, the collagen molecules are released from the mask and contribute to increasing the balance of water. The skin structure is improved and compacted. The new box contains five collagen masks singleuse, 5 30ml Proactive Complex activators and the Transvital ceramic glass bowl that recalls the luxury of highly selected ingredients. For a total of 5 disposable treatments.

BYBLOS

A COMPLETE LINE INSPIRED BY NATURAL ELEMENTS

Byblos was born in the early ‘70s with a clear objective: to create a casual, fresh, transversal fashion style. Today Byblos evolves with new ideas, anticipating trends, remaining faithful to its origins made of lightness and modernity.

a fragrance for each natural element

Elementi di Byblos is the line of essences inspired by a nature in continuous evolution that finds its balance in movement, transformation and evolution. The same principles that guide the constant research of the brand in fashion and live here in a series of contemporary fragrances, young and innovative, with agreements and harmonies never equal themselves.

Elementi di Byblos proposes its most successful lines in a renewed graphic design: packages with minimalist flavor take up the lines and geometries of the fashion collections, dedicating a corner to the materiality of the natural elements. A respected, valued and reinterpreted nature with the fresh and essential taste of our days. Elementi di Byblos is a line of fragrances that recall the joy and power of the sea, freedom of movement in the infinity of the sky and spring.

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THE NEW UNISEX FRAGRANCE

maViVe

THE PATH TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY

new fragrances from Police and The merchant of Venice, emphasise the mavive commitment to sustainability

Police To Be Super [Pure]

Police To Be Super [Pure] is the new unisex lifestyle fragrance from Mavive, an invitation to reconnect with our most essential being and get rid of excess. It is a fragrance that unites girls and boys in an extraordinary shared story, a unique fragrance trail. To Be Super [Pure] looks to the future with optimism and energy. It interprets a new and different approach to traditional fragrance and design. The primary focus of Police

To Be Super[Pure] is on eco-friendly solutions and conscious consume engagement. The new skull and the transparent fragrance express clarity and brightness enhancing the pure beauty of glass design, free of varnishes and decorations. The box is made from eco-friendly paper. The formulation of which includes components with a low environmental impact, both in terms of raw materials and energy.

The paper is made from organic products (corn residue) that replaces up to 15% of the cellulose from trees, and now contains up to 40% of recycled fibre from post-consumer waste.

From the transparent bottle to the fluid fragrance, Police To Be Super[Pure] is the quintessence of purity and freshness. The scent encapsulates duality: it represents the fusion between brightness and attraction, male and female. A shimmering citrus grove of Bergamot, Bigarane™ and Tangerine Essential Oil sparkles over a flowery heart of Osmanthus and Mugane,

elegantly matching with a refined note of Black Tea Essential Oil. The creation is sealed in the base by an alluring Woody blend of Driftwood and Maderal twisted with fresh undertones of Davana Essential Oil. The fragrance has been exclusively created by the French fragrance house, Mane.

It is an Eco-Designed certified Fragrance.

This certificate is recognized thanks to “Green Motion™” a tool requiring the implementation of high ethical standards in the procurement of raw materials in order to minimize the environmental impact of the entire process.

The advertising campaign interprets the same trend started with To Be Green communication by transmitting the values of essentiality, freshness and naturalness.

To Be Super [Pure] interprets the universal spirit of man and women that find comfort in the nourishing embrace of nature and love to reconnect with the purest and most essential part of themselves. It is a celebration for those unconstrained by boundaries, gender norms and definitions.

The Merchant of Venice Accordi di Profumo

With this new collection called Accordi di Profumo, The Merchant of Venice reinterprets the most iconic ingredients of perfumery, with a eye to sustainability and the future. The collection comprises eight Nature-Conscious Eu de Parfum, of exceptional olfactory quality, created in an exclusive partnership with Givaudan, a leading fragrance manufacturer. Sharing the commitment of the Givaudan Foundation and the Sourcing4Good project, Accordi di Profumo aims to highlight the passion, expertise and commitment to the process of sourcing the best raw materials for the common good. At the heart of each fragrance is a selection of sustainable and responsibly sourced ingredients that guarantee traceability and maximum transparency on their origin, contributing to the livelihood of local communities.

The name of the collection intends to recall the cultural soul of the brand, taking an educational conception towards consumers, to lead them to discover the fundamentals of perfumery. Each fragrance is “monothematic” and olfactively exalts the individual raw material that is the star of the creation, whose name is expressed in Italian together with the origin to underline the importance of traceability that distinguishes the project. The eight fragrances are divided into the four main olfactory families, each characterized by an evocative colour green for the fresh citrusy Bergamotto Italia and Arancia Brasile, pink for the delicate floral Tuberosa India and Neroli Marocco, orange for the warm ambery Tonka Venezuela

and Zafferano Iran and brown of the deep, woody Patchouli Indonesia and Sandalo Australia. Each fragrance comes in a 30 ml glass bottle made in Italy. The matte wite finish and glossy black cap enhance the colourful touch of the label, which bears the name of the fragrance and recalls the olfactory family. The boxes, made from biodegradable paper obtained from algae, exhibit an ancient representation of the raw material in the background, in the same nuances. These Eau de Parfum can be worn individually or combined together, following the concept of layering, to create a made-to-measure perfume directly on the skin, with its own unique nuances and facets.

cosmoProf asia is BacK!

THE APPOINTMENT IS IN SINgAPORE FROM 16 TO 18 NOVEMBER

46 countries and regions. This will be a fantastic opportunity for exhibitors and visitors to meet, thanks to a centrally located business gateway.

FACTS AND FIGURES

SPECIAL EVENTS AND INITIATIVES

Cosmoprof Asia 2022, The Special Edition, will return in-person, together with Cosmopack Asia, from 16 to 18 November in Singapore. The event has been relocated in Singapore from its home base of Hong Kong, in order to make it happen, after the 2019 edition. The faceto-face event will gather the beauty and cosmetics industry’s key players from all over the world, proving that nothing will stop the beauty and cosmetics industry from reconnecting face-to-face. This year, Cosmoprof and Cosmopack Asia 2022 will be strongly supported by the Singapore Tourism Board. Singapore, one of the world’s most connected countries, can be reached through Changi Airport, which serves more than 85 international airlines flying to about 100 cities across

Thanks to the excellent teams of BolognaFiere and Informa Markets, despite the tough past years. there will be a participation of over 1,000 exhibitors from 40 countries and regions. Cosmoprof Asia will occupy 5 halls at the Singapore EXPO, covering an exhibition area of up to 50,000 sqm. There will be 17 countries and regional pavilions, including: Australia, California, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Korea, Mainland China, Malaysia, Poland, Singapore, Spain, Switzerland, Taiwan, Turkey and U.K. More than 15,000 attendees are expected to visit the fair to explore the many novelties displayed by International exhibitors. “ We are excited to meet our beauty community again, this time in Singapore”, said Gianpiero Calzolari, President of BolognaFiere. “The event is a not-to-be missed opportunity for stakeholders to understand how consumers habits continue to change in the Asia-Pacific region, and how to develop new projects and proposals to meet the specific need of the market.” “Cosmoprof and Cosmopack Asia are proud to return to the physical event format, offering worldwide exhibitors and consumers a safe venue in which to meet and greet suppliers, experience products in- Person, and learn about the region’s most compelling trends,” said David Bondi, Senior Vice President – Informa Markets Asia and Director of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd.

Sustainability is one of the key topics at Cosmo Talks, the educational programme that will feature key trends, experts and analysts. Sessions will include Trend Forecasts and Digital Beauty, Market Watch and regulations. The well-known international agency Beautystreams will present the CosmoTrends Report, showcasing key trends spotted among the exhibitors, and highlighting notable brands and products anticipated to have a Strong impact on consumers on the AsiaPacific market. Cosmo Onstage will present live demos, product presentations and innovative treatments to beauty and spa professionals, hair stylists and nail artists.

One of the special services of the Cosmoprof International network will be the Buyer Programme and Match&Meet platform to improve business. 300 selected buyers from across the world will participate to the Buyer Programme: they will come from Australia, Asean countries, India, Korea, Japan, Europe, Middle East and the U.S.

A VISIONARY APPROACH TO MAKE-UP

Nouba has shown that it has a visionary approach to thinking and developing make-up and skincare products, in a year, 2022, that for many was one of recovery and rebirth.

After the launch of Youphoria, which hinted at the desire to build up natural make-up that exalted and did not alter the unique characteristics of those using Nouba products, the brand launches the fall winter 22/23 collection YOUNIQUE, in which the personality of the consumer is an essential aspect. YOU- is therefore the leitmotiv of the Nouba strategy of development, which focuses attention on end consumers in all their authenticity.

yOuNIquE is the result of the perfect synergy between colour, performance and highly advanced formulation capable of looking after the skin in completely safety.

This synergy is made concrete in products conceived specifically for versatile make-up and with very attentive formulations to the use of special ingredients and their benefits on the skin. Bright colours to blend in and combine together to obtain a fresh look and look after your skin at the same time!

Pillow is a liquid lip balm, developed in six different shades, nourishing, vegan and natural because it is formulated with 85% of natural ingredients. The glossy finish is ensured by an ingredient of plant origin which comes from Araucaria resin. The silky and comfortable texture guarantees a visible increase in the elasticity and softness of the lips thanks to the oil and extracts of tsubaki, or Japanese camelia: its oil and the extracts derived from its seeds and flowers are traditionally used by geishas to emphasize the shine f their hair and give well-being to the skin.

developed through a process of biofermentation, characterized by the ability to rebalance the skin’s microbiome, keeping the conditions idea so that it proliferates and protects the skin, deserves attention. The tests on use of the product have shown that after 14 days of treatment, the results are:

• Significant decrease of skin redness (-9.8%)*

• Decrease of the transepidermal loss of water (-11.4%)*

• Significant increase in the skin hydration index (+ 9.4%)*

* clinical-instrumental test on 20 Caucasian women aged from 18 to 65

Cheer me up is a creamy duo made up of blush and highlighter in three different colour combinations: a smart and multitasking product. The blush can easily be used to colour the cheeks, to enrich the eyes through application on the lids and lips for a healthy and natural look. The highlighter, with its pearly effect has an incredible corrective function, evenly covering the skin and exalting its radiance. It is an explosion of colour that your make-up bag cannot do without! Noubiotic has all the presuppositions to be highly successful innovation in the world of beauty care: a probiotic stick with a texture with an intensive action which rebalances the ecosystem of good bacteria and reinforces the protective barrier of the skin, fighting the process of irritation, dehydration and ageing. Among the main active ingredients, a powerful molecule

The practical stick format of Noubiotic also makes the product practical for travel and is ready to use. It is a genderless products in the make-up sector you will soon be unable to do without!

Eye O’clock is a genderless all-round treatment for the eye contour, lashes and brows. A vegan formula with three levels of action through an innovative sensory effect, reinventing in a single product complete care for the eye contour area. The fresh and smooth texture has been developed to shape and revitalize the eye area; it gives a “transparent film” effect without pulling or creating unevenness. The eye contour takes on a relaxed and revitalized effect thanks to an active ingredient that acts as a reducer of dark circles and highlighter, while the lashes and brows regain their radiance for attractive eyes. The results of in vivo tests conducted on 10 volunteers aged from 20 to 60, male and female, who used the eye o’clock treatment for 14 days, show a significant reduction (-25%) in the puffiness of the eye contour. Once again the products in the YOUNIQUE collection prove the incredible ability of Nouba to continue following its strategy of sustainable beauty. This commitment is translated into the development of vegan formulas and natural ingredients in support of new trends and topics of social importance.

aQua di sorrenTo

A NEW LINE OF FRAgRANCES REFLECTINg THE ITALIAN WAY OF LIFE

The dolce vita and italian traditions inspire the new fragrances

The traditions, the breath-taking scenery, the crystal-clear sea and the lemon groves of Sorrento are part of our cultural makeup, and have inspired Diamond Line for this Aqua di Sorrento line. Diamond International is a young but strategic company founded by the Sodico Group and specialized in fragrances and perfumes. The line is made up of two fragrances, Posillipo and Partenope, based on essential oils, making them characteristic and intense and they also come as a nourishing body cream, with an enveloping and fresh texture and a shower gel.

Partenope is a joyous, radiant and sparkling fragrance, like a ray of sun in the citrus groves. Juicy notes of Lemon, Orange and Mandarin embrace the freshness of Green Apple to find, in the soft floral heart, the delicacy of petals of Lily of the Valley, Jasmine and Lily. In the base, the notes of Musk and Cedar Wood give this fragrance a seductive allure. The oil extracted from Cedar Wood is extracted in the respect of the programme “Naturals Together”, which has the aim of preserving natural biodiversity in the respect of the environment, ethically and sustainably. Posillipo, in light blue packaging, is an aromatic fragrance tat encloses the truest soul of the Mediterranean, the crossroads of peoples and cultures. A sparkling and unexpected opening of Bergamot, Ginger and Black Pepper continues with an elegant heart, where the perfumes of the Mediterranean maquis forcefully emerge, accompanied b a delicate Lavender. In the base, the modern and seductive notes of Patchouli, Cedar Wood and Musk envelop the fragrance, placing this Eau de Parfum above time and fashions. In particular, the essential oils of Virginia Cedar, Nigerian Ginger French Lavender and Indonesian Patchouli belong to the “Naturals Together” programme, which certifies that they are extracted and processed ethically and sustainably, preserving the environment and the biodiversity, in the respect of the local populations.

Diamond International is synonymous with excellence, experimentation in the creation of exclusive fragrances, highly advanced formulas and innovative packaging. The licence projects, created in close collaboration with an excellent marketing team, R & D and the sales area, have as their objective to offer a product of high quality, made with excellent and innovative formulas and with attention paid to every detail: from the fragrance to the packaging and the texture, the values and the style of the brand relive in the products.

DIAMOND INTERNATIONAL SETS ITS SI

“BeLLagio

Diamond International – a dynamic company based in Milan and belonging to the Sodico Group – has been able to interpret in a unique and intense fragrance for women - “Bellagio Eau de Parfum” – Italian production understood as synonymous with responsibility and value, excellence and creativity. Diamond Int. drawing on its role as a top player in the masstige market, thanks to important partnerships in the world of fashion, lifestyle and sport, has created a fragrance where the past and the future meet on its refined notes of great appeal.

a contemporary interpretation of a timeless italian place

There is a place at the bottom of the soul where sooner or later we all return to: it has the reflections of light of an iconic spot, with a comfortable name, as soft as a light breeze on summer evenings, like the scent of the green gardens of marvellous villas. It has the name of Bellagio, a precious pearl, lying on “that arm of Lake Como”, the timeless incipit of The Betrothed, the unique setting of a new dolce vita, in the shadow of the majestic Alpine peaks.

Bellagio Eau de Parfum starts from the same incipit, from that arm of Lake Como which turns off to the south: a cocktail of worldly notes which blends the flavour of strawberry and raspberry, intense and bold, with the freshness of mandarin, as lively and intense as the glittering lights on the ripples of the lake. The sweet floral and elegant heart notes embrace and warm the timeless base notes of patchouli and musk, classic, refined and ambitious like the woman who chooses Bellagio, a unique and timeless fragrance. The very sophisticated bottle evokes the harmony of the buildings reflected on the lake’s surface, brightened by the frivolous tassel which tickles with a hint of guile, the soft pink hue of the perfume. We find this colour again in the Bellagio Body Cream, a lightweight and soft texture that leaves skin moisturized and pleasantly seductive. Diamond International is synonymous with excellence, experimentation in creating exclusive fragrances, highly advanced formulas and innovative packaging, to satisfy the pleasure of the senses of whoever wears them and of the brands that want to be represented by a unique emotional experience of the fragrance that excites and of precious essences that evoke unequalled atmospheres and worlds. The licence projects –the result of close collaboration between an excellent team of marketing, R&D and the Sales area, have as their objective to offer a product of high quality, created with excellent and innovative formulations, with attention paid to every detail: from the fragrance to the packaging and the texture, the values and the style of the brand relive in the products.  The brands under licence are Ducati – 1926, Ice and Sport – Fiat 500, Jeep, Romeo Gigli, and Gattinoni.

JeeP® Brand

Freedom and Adventure are the names of the two lines of fragrances for men that seal the licensing agreement between Diamond International – part of the So.Di.Co group – and FCA Group LLC. These two names reflect the values and the DNA of the Jeep® brand: freedom, authenticity, adventure and passion. They find their perfect expression in two new lines of fragrance with a bold and intense character, made up of three references: Eau de Toilette, Shower Gel and Deodorant Spray. The packaging expresses and outlines the free, ambitious, determined and sober virility of the Jeep man: clear and strong lines that represent new limits to overcome, new emotions to experience through the 7 slot grille, the iconic symbol of the Jeep brand.

Freedom reveals all the personality of the man who chooses this Jeep fragrance; intense, exciting, determined and energetic. Jeep’s Freedom brings with it the fascination of the unexplored, the emotions of the surprise and the energy of feeling without limits. It is a modern reinterpretation of fougère, the moist classic of the masculine olfactory families. It moves on contrasts of aromatic and woody, intense and delicate notes, which start from the freshness of Bergamot warmed by an intense Resin which opens the way for the surprising spiciness of Sichuan Pepper, mixed with the classic Geranium. The olfactory composition closes with the woody and spicy notes of Vetiver and Patchouli reinforced by the animal and wild mood of Amber Gris.

Two lines of fragrances for men seal the licensing agreement

Adventure, the Jeep fragrance conceived for a man free from conventions, determined and in search of places where he can be himself, is real praise for a passion for adventure and breathless emotions. Aromatic, woody and seductively floral, the olfactory composition reveals a strong character, a spirit that always decides its own destiny. It is a strong, bold and voluptuous fragrance, that expresses energy without ever raising the olfactory tones, following the harmony of refinement that is expressed in total discretion.

It explodes like an enveloping fusion of the aromatic and fresh notes of Mint, Grapefruit and Pepper, amalgamated with the sweetness of Rose and the spicy touch of Nutmeg, with the velvety and soft bed of Vetiver and the very classic Incense and Oak Moss.

aTeLier fragranze mi L ano

A 100% ITALIAN DNA

An Atelier where creativity, brilliance, quality, sur mesure and tradition are mantras!

AFM’s Manifesto is based on 4 key points: the importance of Italian Heritage; the leadership of creativity over data; free and disruptive creativity; and a bold vision of the creative process. These dots all connect together in two creations of Trussardi’s Luxe collection ‘Le Vie di Milano’, where AFM signed ‘the Italian Artists of Via Solferino’ and ‘The Courtyards of Castello Sforzesco’. These fragrances were created for Trussardi Parfums by AFM with Angelini Beauty as licence holder. The idea was to capture in a bottle the true essence of Milan, a rich cocktail of style, elegance and Italian creativity. “Creativity is definitely our watchword, this is a new approach to olfactory creation, capable of placing the individual at the center, hence ‘Human Centric Perfumery.’ Today the consumer is looking for true, genuine emotions,” says Luca Maffei, Ceo and Nose of Atelier Fragranze Milano. “Our creations therefore aim to be evocative, to tell stories that make the consumer’s heart vibrate, that make them live unique and memorable experiences.” One of Luca’s most recent signature wins represents all of this; Ierofante by Parfum Quartana is a fragrance that embodies the desire of letting emotions speak through fragrance. As Joseph Quartana tells us, “Ierofante is like a spaceship that, instead of launching into the void of the universe, throws us right into ourselves, within our souls, towards that place that’s so intimate and yet capable of reaching the impossible, a place that we have all forgotten a bit about.”

Luca Maffei and Antoine Lie (Noses)

“Perfumery has become ‘too analytical,’ the method AFM has adopted aims to get closer to the customer’s vision, to understand it, to interpret it, and to transform it into an olfactory expression that has a soul,’” confirms French Nose Antoine Lie, creator of many best-selling fragrances and AFM’s senior perfumer. “Perfume must be considered as an art, not a science, and it has to be involved in a creative dialogue, not in analytics.”

Micaela Giamberti, manager for more than 20 years in the industry and Fragrance Division Manager at AFM insists on the importance of the new consumer, deeply transformed by these Pandemic years, and the new retail experience that now needs to motivate and emphasize the physical presence. Many studies confirm this: the consumer is hungry for experiences that are powerfully innovative, that open the heart and mind, and that manage to make their way through the multitude of impulses they receive every day.

We know that human beings tend to remember 35% of what they smell compared to 5% of what they see, 2% of what they hear and 1% of what they touch, and we also know that the olfactive memory, involving the emotional center, is the most powerful memory at our disposal. Therefore, we are confident that we can provide our consumers with unique and unforgettable experiences through fragrances built on these new values, representing strategic keys to give what the consumer really wants and to build loyalty.

This approach has already proved to be successful! @ the 2022 editions of the Italian Academy of Perfume Award and the Art and Olfaction Awards in Miami, AFM made it to the finals with 3 and 2 of its creations, winning the prestigious Accademia del Profumo Award with Aphélie by Trudon as Best Artistic Perfume within Independent Brands.

Micaela Giamberti (Fragrance Division Manager) and Marco Maffei (President)

CHANgE THE FLOW

ICEBERgTHE FRAgRANCE FOR REBELS

Bold, irrevent and unexpected, the new fragrance

CHANGE THE FLOW is inspired by the new generation of men who want to change the status quo.

It evokes the emotion one feels when being an active part of change, when overcoming any challenge that life might put on their path, when shaking up pre-established lines and making their own rules: because every change comes from within.

ICEBERG Change the Flow has been created by Ilias Ermenidis, Master perfumer at Firmenich and creator of the iconic ICEBERG Twice line.

Change The Flow audaciously starts from a fresh and spicy composition at the top with notes of bitter orange, saffron and ginger, and dries down towards an intense and woody base of sandalwood, cedar wood and amber, enhanced by the sensual accords of leather and tobacco leaves in the heart. It is a radically fresh and invigorating fragrance that celebrates the flow of change for those who want to live their life to the fullest. The packaging also embodies the desire for change and the idea of bringing down the status quo, starting with the unexpected seek matte black bottle and its gold pump and cap and silver collar.

On the front, the bottle has a holographic label that plays with lights and movements.

Thanks to lenticular technology, the label is brought to life, showing different facets of its design as you move and tilt the bottle.

ICEBERG has been a leading name in fashion since it was launched in 1974 by Giuliana Marchini Gerani and her husband Silvano Gerani, with the revolutionary idea of introducing the concept of luxury sportswear.

Today ICEBERG, proudly directed by the British designer James Long, is a heritage Italian brand focused on logomania and its nostalgic references, as well as one of the most covetable luxury sportswear brands.

Like a moving image, the Iceberg pattern changes, appearing and disappearing and slowly revealing all its shades, directly inspired by the Fall Winter 22 collection of the eponymous fashion house.

The ICEBERG pattern is embossed all over the outer box, enhanced by the brand’s institutional black brand band and a luxurious golden stripe.

ICEBERG Change The Flow is available in three sizes: 100 ml, 50 ml and 30 ml.

i nspired by the new generation of men who want to change the status quo

LOLLIPINK by Pink Sugar

ICONIC, MODERN AND PLAYFUL

The world of Pink Sugar welcomes a new member: Lollipink, a playful and disruptive fragrance which is a modern link to the gourmand world of sweets, unexpected with respect to the box holding the fragrance. The fragrance opens with luminous top notes of citrus and fruit, which introduce a floral heart of rose, magnolia, jasmine and a hint of white woods. In the base, addictive notes are warmed by vanilla, amber and musk, giving the creation a hint of chypre which guarantees excellent persistence on the

skin and gives the fragrance a sensual, feminine and modern allure. An explosion of flowers on the box attracts our attention, inciting us to stretch out our hand and takes us into a floral and modern, as well as profoundly feminine, world, accompanying us already visually to discover the fragrance. On one side of the box, the swirls pick up the colour codes of Pink Sugar, enveloping us so that we are lost in a scrumptious spiral of sweetness. The bottle picks up the pattern with flowers and butterflies on the box but becomes the meadow from which an unexpected pink lollipop - Lollipink - arises. The box and the bottle have been designed to visually “introduce” the fragrance making the project coherent in all its aspects. The explosion of flowers on the box anticipates an unexpected, floral, sophisticated and romantic fragrance. The bottle with its Lollipink creates an immediate link with the gourmand touch in the olfactory creation, the unmistakable signature of the Pink Sugar world. With this new chapter of modern sweet femininity, the universe of Pink Sugar grows, sure to increase its already faithful fan base, especially in the United States, where Pink Sugar is very popular and Lollipink is an important launch to consolidate the market share enjoyed by Pink Sugar and its world of pinkness and femininity.

The sweetness and femininity of the Pink sugar world in a new and updated interpretation

CREATIVE SIGNATURES, LATEST TECHNOLOGIES, NATURAL INGREDIENTS, WITH MANE SUCCESSES

MANE perfumers gather constantly creativity and innovation thanks to the purest natural ingredients and unique captives.

Julie Massé and Violaine Collas sign a new chapter in the exciting series that Trussardi Parfums is dedicating to the values of contemporary femininity. PURE JASMINE is a perfume dedicated to all women for whom being a feminist today means adhering to the values of individuality, sustainability and inclusiveness. The top notes open on the bright vivaciousness of Bergamot Essential Oil that meets unexpected facets of fresh salty Pistachio and elegant Neroli Essential Oil. The daring and unpredictable character of this creation blooms into an engaging Floral heart of Champaca E-Pure Jungle Essence™, Jasmine Absolute and Mugane™. The drydown discloses the secret of an enveloping persistence of Patchouli Essential Oil, Sandalwood and Vanilla.

A new protagonist into the Police fragrances collection inspired by the magical world of potions. POTION FOR HIM is an audacious perfume signed by Alex Lee. The creation opens with captivating top tonalities, where a modern note of Rhubarb intertwines with the irresistible Black Pepper Essential Oil. The strong personality of Cannabis accord is enveloped by a hypnotic Hazelnut Neo Jungle Essence™, giving a trail that cannot go unnoticed. The drydown is enriched by an unpredictable blend of Driftwood and creamy Sandalwood. A penetrating and magnetic potion.

Violaine Collas signs GYOKURO Eau de Parfum by The Merchant of Venice. Gyokuro is a fragrance that pays tribute to the land of the Rising Sun, exalting the namesake raw material, the most precious of Japanese Green Teas. This creation full of grace and lightness opens with a luminous top of Flowery Fruity touches intertwined in an intriguing burst of Black Pepper Jungle Essence™. The heart is an olfactory journey through the far East with a refined blend of Green Tea extract, Lotus Flower and a distinctive touch of Peach and Tuberose Neo Jungle Essence™. In the drydown, the composition discloses an elegant and enveloping wake of precious Woody notes.

A new stage of Mandarina Duck olfactive journey with FOR HIM , an Eau de Toilette that smells like sea and freedom infused with wellness and outdoor living. Created by Mathieu Nardin, this Fougère Marine fragrance opens with sparkling and juicy notes of Italian Mandarin Essential Oil, fresh spicy shades of Cardamom Pure Jungle Essence™ and playful Aquatic Fruity touches. The composition shows a bright and dynamic heart of Lavandin Essential Oil, Green Violet Leaves and delicate Orange Flower, followed by an intense and vigorous drydown with Patchouli Essential Oil and Musky tones.

A new MANE fine fragrance into the Armani Beauty range: SÌ PASSIONE ÉCLAT DE PARFUM created by Julie Massé. A fragrance that personifies bold and modern femininity; reminds of the power of passion that illuminates life, filling it with meaning. It opens with a sparkling citrus note of Italian Bergamot sustainably harvested from Calabrian trees and a bright accord of Blackcurrant. A sensual heart of Roses inspires women to reveal their strengths, to conquer the world with confidence and grace. The base is composed of Vanilla extract which gives it a captivating sound, responsibly sourced in Madagascar as part of a solidarity program supporting local communities.

FORMA

ITALIANA

four Business uniTs and ProgressiVe groWTh

and of the world surrounding it: the certainties on which business was based until two years ago are no longer the same today; there are too many variables of every type and coming from every direction, you only have to think of the trend of currencies, in particular of the US dollar. With the dollar almost equivalent to the euro, the cost of commodities is shooting tot eh stars and this causes great upsets at international level.

INTERVIEW WITH CLAUDIO GABBAI, PRESIDENT & CEO

EXPORT MAGAZINE: At the end of 2022, let’s take stock of the current situation of the markets…

CLAUDIO GABBAI: When we go through difficult time, hit by pandemics or wars, we run risks, changes take place. From the change of paradigms, not everyone comes out unharmed, those who were well structured previously can come out of the crisis stronger, whose who showed signs of weakness can run into trouble. Our company, which has been well structured for years, during the pandemic had double-digit growth. The forecast for this year is to reach +15%, with the objective at the end of the year to take the turnover to 34 million, The importance of being well structured depends on the changeability of the market

EM: What does it mean being entrepreneurs today? CG: It means ‘creating value’ and to do so, I repeat that you have to have an efficient structure, implementing all the sectors to be able to be good partners for industry. The industry essentially has to have ‘good’ production and distribution all the passages necessary to give a complete service, including the logistics which plays an extremely important role. We have just acquired a further warehouse of 5,000 square metres. We are getting stronger to cover every types of small and large distribution, doing meticulous back office work and increasingly refined management control. Every month we close the accounts by division as though we were drawing up the financial statement, depreciation included. We are a healthy company, and we intend to continue being one,which is why, beyond a certain threshold of turnover, let’s say from euro 60 million upwards, we have to consolidate our bases. For this reason some time ago we decided to revolutionize our company organization. By putting the company at the centre and no longer the family, we are sure to do its interests, because the perspective changes completely.

It is obvious that the values on which the concept of family in which we believe very strongly remain unchanged, including with regard to the families of our employees, from the first to the last. We have opened the capital to two young managers, Jacky Blanga and Antonio Biffi, as well as to the financial director, Vittorio Abba; Davide Reis was already a shareholder in the times of my father, Maurizio. In this way. We have assured the future of our company. I am convinced that the motor of the company are young people, who bring innovative concepts: the sixty-year-olds certainly have the culture and the experience in judging what it is better to do or not to do – let’s say that they have already had all the childhood illnesses - however, the potential is in the ability to inject new energy into the various activities.

EM: What are the certainties on which you have always been based?

CG: I believe in joint ventures, making commercial agreements both with the industry and with partners, to put the reciprocal competences at disposal of each other. I firmly believe in the contamination of the good who unite their forces (all tennis players know that it is always better to play against an adversary of their own level!)

To reach success, there are three words: work, work and work. Because professionalism and competence derive solely from an assiduous and attentive way of working. We occupy an intermediate part of the market, and every day we are integrated upstream and downstream with our partners. It is interesting to ‘divide a piece of bread’ with those who have competences other than our own. Our certainties include not wanting to work with private equity funds, which follow very tight logics of timing, not in tune with our mentality. For us, doing business is not speculating on the moment, but making the company grow from now on for the next 100 years.

EM: One of your activities is distribution in the beauty sector. How is it structured?

CG: We have created four very separate divisions: perfumery mass market, a new luxury division and the Internet. We are also offering a new service of integrated logistics at the service of small cosmetic companies. With the luxury division, we distribute La Perla Beauty, Lolita Lempicka and Barbour. We also have the worldwide licence for Yuzen, an excellent Japanese brand of skincare that is giving us great satisfaction. Each division is under a manager specialized in that channel: Roberto Maranese, a great expert in the luxury sector, Piero Pelle in mass market. The mass market portfolio is as made up of very interesting and up-to-date brands. Our expert collaborators include Cinzia Langelli and Lara Lorenzini, but the list of those who deserve a mention is very long…there are 70 of them, i.e. the whole team both in Lacchiarella and externally.

EM: You who know the market very well, in your opinion what are the successful channels, referring perhaps to the Italian and European market?

CG: If we look at Europe, the selective market is suffering enormously in terms of consumption, so perfumery and luxury retail is undergoing a certain crisis. It is attacked from below by drugstores and health and beauty stores and from above by pharmacies, which have become an interesting channel for everything that is skincare. In pharmacies, cosmetic products have raised the amount on the receipt. The mass market is simpler and more regular; however it is aiming to extend the offer of its portfolio to luxury products.If this gradually occurs it does not mean that the neighbourhood shops, in city centres, will not survive. As always there will be a selection, in favour of the best. We cannot not talk about e-commerce: it continues to reinvent itself and it is a channel to itself, which grew during the pandemic and is stabilizing. In Italy it is worth about 20% of the selective market, deducing that 80% remains in the hands of retail.

EM: Concluding… Forma Italiana is a well-structured company, managed by a ‘man on the ground,’ who knows the rules of the market because he also knows what it means to manage points of sale, and applies them after careful consideration. Correct?

CG: Let’s say that the company was founded by my father, and we have managed not to destroy it!

Claudia Stagno

RUDY PROFUMI

hoW To comBine arT and The TradiTion of PerfumerY and originaL concePTs

to the vision of Spiridione has developed and grown thanks to the professionalism of our team but the family mark still remains, and we are now the fourth generation with the grandchildren.

EM: What differentiates the brand from others on the market? What is your mission?

CC: Our mission is the one that was handed down by the founders, combining fragrance and creativity in a product that has an exclusive and elegant aesthetic. A distinctive sign that always characterizes and identifies us.

EM: In recent years, going against the current with respect to the market data, your company has shown important growth: what actions have you taken to obtain these increasingly excellent results?

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Let’s start from the beginning: how did Rudy Profumi come into being?

CRISTINA CALABRESE: Rudy was founded in 1920 by the creative mind of Spiridione Calabrese who named the company after the heart throb of the time, Rodolfo Valentino, known as “Rudy”, the icon of the cinema and Italian beauty. At first, the production was based on cosmetics (lipsticks, nail varnishes, powders and hair cream) and fragrances. In the 1940s, his son Antonio took over, who was to continue his father’s creative vein, designing eclectic perfume bottles which thanks to their elegance became actual objects of design. In fact, many of them are on display at the Museum of Fragrance in Milan and Chicago. Today, the business created thanks

CC: Thanks to virtuous partnerships, we have been able to enter distribution channels other than the ones we addressed in the past; in addition to Perfumeries, we have entered the Pharmacy, Health and Beauty and Herbalist channels, and we are now exploring the channels of Home Décor and Concept Stores, where the Majolica line truly shines.

INTERVIEW WITH CRISTINA CALABRESE, PRODUCT AND PROJECT MANAgER, RUDY PROFUMI

EM: What is the most important challenge facing your company today?

CC: Over the past two years, businesses have had to face some very difficult challenges, from the pandemic to the increase in price of raw materials and the whole productive sector, so the commitment to keep a product that is affordable for the consumer has not and will not be so easy, but it is in the DNA of the entrepreneur to create opportunities where at times others can only see difficulties. Our perspective is to continue offering elegant ideas, keeping our values and our identity.

EM: What has been the trend over the past few years and what are the future prospects for your brand?

CC: Over the past few years our trend has been constant growth both nationally and abroad, where we have consolidated positions already existing and opened some very important new markets. The prospects are to continue giving and confirming the trust that our distributor partners have shown.

EM: What are the most important trends in the beauty sector?

CC: As our product is focused on the olfactory offer, the trend lies in seeking out fragrances that arouse the consumer’s curiosity. Today they are increasingly interested I recognizing themselves in olfactory notes that represent their personality and that can evoke pleasant memories or new places to explore.

EM: There is a great deal of talk about sustainability: what solutions are available to help the beauty industry become more sustainable?

CC: We propose a packaging that due to tis characteristics is also an object of decoration and that can last in time

even when it is finished, which is why we offer refills to be able to use the primary container over and over again and limit waste. In addition, all the products are made from PET, a material which is infinitely recyclable.

EM: What are your most successful products and why?

CC: Currently it is the Le Maioliche di Rudy line, in which we have combined the traditional of Italian craftsmanship of painting on ceramics with a product of everyday consumption. In each product we have tried to stimulate all the senses, from the sense of smell to touch and sight, so that consumers can be surrounded by products that are useful but at the same time pleasant and comfortable.

EM: Lastly, let’s talk about your beautiful packaging. Where did the idea come from?

CC: We export almost 50% of our products and our foreign clients are always looking for something which truly expresses the idea of “Made in Italy”, so through our line “Le Maioliche di Rudy”, we wanted to project the consumers into our lovely country, an olfactory journey through the most beautiful spots that the whole world envies, a world of perfumes, art and tradition. And this tradition of artisan craftmanship explodes in the designs that characterize this original time, a unique and distinctive concept. To date, our designs are made by a decorator who is specialized in drawing on majolica in the respect of the artistic tradition: initially on tiles for all the phases of design, decoration and firing. Later, they are then transposed on to the industrialized product and adapted to be enjoyed by the consumer, who can “spoil themselves” at a reasonable price, choosing the decorations that best suit their homes, in a word: the concept of Home Décor in a toiletry product.

Claudia Stagno

THE SCENTIST

INDIVIDUAL PERFUME

W hen arT ificia L inTeLLigence meeTs

PerfumerY

Artificial Intelligence at the service of fragrance

The motivation of the founders was to offer all those who do not like mainstream perfumes but seek to enhance their individuality a completely new and very personal dimension of the highest olfactory quality.

After an intense three years of research and development with renowned perfumers and IT specialists, The Scentist succeeded in creating an exclusive fragrance for every person that is completely unique, with a totally new approach.

Using a specially developed, image-based, digital personality test, The Scentist takes into account individual

preferences in the areas of cuisine, travel, lifestyle and more. From this information, digital intelligence composes scent chords and aromas. It also takes into account the skin type in the fragrance analysis process.

The personal answers in the computer-controlled The Scentist dialogue are intelligently analysed by algorithms and self-learning database systems and compared with the expertise of top international perfumers stored in The Scentist software.

The digital perfume composition is unique worldwide and turns customers into their own perfumers.

the scentist is based on the challenge of a very simple fact: no person is like another. why shouldn’t this also apply to perfumes.

The heart of The Scentist is a continuously changing, self-learning system based on artificial intelligence, which is constantly evolving – just we humans are constantly changing in our thinking and feeling perception and action.

A pop-up store in Cologne

To launch the brand, the young start-up opened a digital perfumery laboratory last April & May in the form of a pop-up store in the High Street of Cologne. The founders of this very original concept are Daniel de Sain and Guido Maria Schmitt, whose family have been involved in the world of essential oils, fragrances and essences for a hundred years. He says that at format. Most of the time, the faces of store visitors were pictures of amazement. Consumers were positively surprised by the accuracy of the description when the perfume created for them corresponded to their preferences. In 96% of the cases, consumers declared that the detailed description of their fragrance was right for them. The experience of the popup store was very beneficial, as it gave the founders the chance to optimize the customer experience.

The Next step

The pop-up store has been perceived as an innovative new shop-in-shop and/or franchise format. Alongside with online sales of customized The Scentist fragrances it is an additional offer in the assortment of retailers. The advantages: it’s only made on demand, it’s sustainable, there is no inventory. Mobile First: Retailers may also partner easily by promoting The Scentist through vouchers and digital marketing campaigns specially for mobile use.

Daniel de Sain and Guido Maria Schmitt are convinced that the future of fragrance is in Artificial Intelligence: time will tell if they are right!

Daniel de Sain

using technology to create custom-made fragrances: the wager of this german start-up

CARLOTHA

RAY hauTe Parfumerie engagée

Carlotha Ray, in the words of the founder of the brand Mariela Schwarz Montiel,

‘wants to make the difference’, starting from her footwear. And continuing with the trio of fragrances created by the nose Jean-Michel Duriez.

For the first time ever in the world of perfumery, there is a new approach to the concept of luxury, where creativity and sustainable development walk hand in hand.

The designer Mariela Schwarz Montiel, Antonello Orunesu Preiata, co-founder of HIM Co, the company that owns the brand, and the nose Jean-Michel Duriez talk to us about it.

Co

INTERVIEW WITH ANTONELLO ORUNESU PREIATA, HIM Co CFO AND CO-FOUNDER

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Carlotha Ray is a brand that belongs to your Group and which recently launched a collection of fragrances. Can you tell us about this brand…?

A NTONELLO O RUNESU P REIATA : Carlotha Ray is one of our brands, created in 2018 thanks to a stylistic idea of Mariela Schwarz, a designer with whom our Group has worked for quite some time.

Mariela’s stylistic input has considerable value and is expressed through the common thread of pursuing sustainability in everything and for everything, with her style being inspired by nature and all the materials connected with it. This led to the creation of a series of flipflops in various colours and in rubber which is 100% ecological, both concerning the composition and the colouring. Mariela’s attitude and approach has definitely influenced the creation of the brand, which combines a love for beauty and for a natural world full of appeal and mystery. The creation of a collection of fragrances is merely the extension of this concept.

EM: A concept that expresses a new approach to the world of luxury…

AOP: If by the world of luxury we mean the top players, that of Carlotha Ray is another type of luxury, based on coherence in wanting to fully respect nature. It is a lifestyle brand which has made sustainability its raison d’être. When we created the fragrances, the idea was clear from the very start: to create a product that avoided the environmental impact as far as possible, the bottle is lighter and is made from 40% recycled glass, the packaging is 100% recyclable, and the cap is made from PEFC certified wood; in addition, our fragrance is available, from the second purchase, in the form of a refill, again made from glass. It is very important for me to underline that what we declare to the market about sustainability is totally certified. We move with caution, looking for the best materials and the best partners to create suitable products. The market has already rewarded us; the brand’s fragrances, launched in September 2021 received in April 2022 the prize of the BEAUTE STARS MADAME FIGARO 2022 in the ‘Produit Espoir’ category. This gives us confidence and energy to continue along our path.

EM: It is not always an easy task to be precursors; you talked about the careful choice of partners, are you referring to anyone in particular?

AOP: Mariela Schwarz is our inspiring muse, who has made Carlotha Ray a representative of a fashion with profound values, and we are reflecting, in the near future, of adding other product categories to the fragrance, such as home and ready-to-wear. For the fragrances, I am extremely grateful to our French consultants of Helius, who opened the gates of knowledge of this world to us, developing products

that are perfectly in line with the philosophy of the brand. A particular note of praise goes to the creator of the three fragrances which make up the collection, the maestro Jean-Michel Duriez, who was able to interpret and enhance the spirit of the brand. The expertise of the team has enabled the fragrances to be sold and appreciated in several parts of the world. We are in France and in South Korea, the next to be opening are the Middle Eastern countries, and we are at an advanced stage of talks in many other parts of the world.

EM: We are curious about the story of HIM Co; a manufacturing site in the industrial part of Venice and a showroom in Milan. Is being an Italian product an advantage?

AOP: Ours is an anomalous story; we come from a Japanese group listed on the Tokyo Stock Exchange, Onward, which during the period of the pandemic decided to sell its businesses.

Fabio Ducci and I decided to make a management buyout and together founded HIM Co, giving continuity to an industrial tradition more than thirty years old, of which Fabio is the President and CEO and I am the CFO.

It was a courageous decision of which we are proud, as we have taken over six companies of the former Japanese group which already operated in Italy, making it a totally Italian and independent group. Our DNA is of manufacturers of shoes and clothing. Carlotha Ray is the only brand we own. Our main activity is as licensee, i.e. we make and distribute brands under licence.

For example, for footwear, we make and distribute brands such as JW Anderson, Proenza Schouler, Capasa, Rochas and Victoria Beckham. In the clothing sector, we produce and distribute Rochas and Nick Fouquet (a Californian start-up) and we have a contract of production only with another US brand, Another Tomorrow. You asked me whether being made in Italy is an advantage.

In the world of the fashion industry it is, because it is synonymous with craftsmanship that is handed down over time, the habit of ‘doing things well.’

The important brands are French, but Italian as well. And let’s not forget that there is the entrepreneurial fabric in our country, made up of passion and expertise.

The fact that some major international players are aggregating Italian manufacturers means that there is excellence in our country.

marie L a sch Warz mon T ie L

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Ms. Schwarz Montiel, can you talk to us about the Carlotha Ray brand? When did you create it and what is the concept behind it?

MARIELA SCHWARZ MONTIEL: We started the brand in 2020. We did all the preparation for the fragrance during the lockdown. It was a really good time to reflect on doing something really special for the brand.

EM: The whole brand is related to sustainability. Why is this so important to you?

MSM: I am an idealist. I love fashion and my gift is the ability to design, but deep down in my heart I am a person who wants to make a difference. The world needs to change and I think that in the very near future, we will all be working in the right direction. We no longer have a choice. About what made me create Carlotha Ray was the idea of making sustainable the most widely used type of shoes in the world, and the flipflop is this shoe!

So I wanted to make something really beautiful and unique in terms of design to seduce people so that they can consume something that is harmless for the planet. My dream is to be able to bury our shoes in the earth and they will be absorbed in the most natural and fastest way. We are working with researchers at the University of Padua to make this dream come true. Every piece combines grace with femininity in a 100% vegan design, created from natural compostable rubber, with no leather or any other animal-derived

products. The new-generation satin fibre used for some designs is produced by recycling plastic bottles. While natural dyes are obtained from recycled natural materials such as eggshells, rice, charcoal and flower petals. In another original and poetic touch, pieces are also delicately fragranced using natural rose and lilyof-the-valley essences.

EM: The Carlotha Ray fragrances have some specific characteristics that make them unique. Do you think that the market is ready for them?

MSM: The world is changing towards our way of consumption; transparency is in demand and we all consult applications that give us information, whether good or bad. This awareness makes me believe that in the future, consumers will demand this type of products and since sales are increasing, we trust that we were right! And thank God there are many people who are starting consuming in a more sustainable way !

EM: Why is the brand called Carlotha Ray?

MSM: I drew inspiration for the brand from my grandmother, Carlotha Despierre de Montiel, who was an advocate for environmental conservation and particularly for reforestation.

EM: You are originally from Paraguay. Can you tell us about your journey to luxury footwear and now fragrances?

MSM: I have designed in many areas: from tableware for the French porcelain manufacturer Raynaud since 2012, as well as for some of the major couture houses, as I am an avid fashion and footwear enthusiast. I am delighted by my new venture with the Carlotha Ray brand and with the shoes and the fragrances I hope to make a difference, even if small, to the planet.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Maestro Duriez, your reputation precedes you… the nose of Jean Patou for fourteen years, at Parfums Rochas for eight years and an independent parfumeur for five years. When you were offered the chance to create the fragrances for the Carlotha Ray brand, what was your first thought?

JEAN-MICHEL DURIEZ: When you are the creator of a fragrance, and you work on a project of an already existing brand, in the case of Carlotha Ray a brand of footwear, what counts the most is understanding the universe of the maison, and its concept and DNA. I met the creator Mariela Schwarz, I was able to touch her creations, and above all I listened to what she was expecting about the three fragrances that I would have created for her. The first step was more creative and the second more technical. As the whole brand is based on eco-sustainability, a topic that underlies the philosophy of Mariela and Carlotha Ray, the priority for me as well was to respect this fundamental line, finding the best compromise between being as creative as possible, creating fragrances of luxury perfumery, and maintaining the vocation of the brand. We could speak of ‘haute parfumerie engagée’. Let me say that the creative part comes out of me instinctively; for the technical part I had to, every time I thought of a formula or of an ingredient, validate that idea assessing it with the eco-responsible part, which asked for the use of non-controversial ingredients, as natural as possible, upcycled and vegan. The alcohol used, which represents 80% of the product, is natural and organic. As far as the ingredients are concerned, the aim has always been to use as many natural raw materials as possible, with the awareness, as a nose, of not having at my disposal sufficient natural components to give shape to all the ideas. As an example, in « Poire & Santal Blanc », which won the Beauté Stars Madame Figaro award, I used natural sandalwood essence, but couldn’t use a natural essence of pear which doesn’t exist. For most of fruit and vegetables, it is not technically possible to get natural extracts. In such case we use our nose to reinvent and copy what nature cannot give.

I used sandalwood essence, which is natural and it was not possible to use the natural, essence of pear because as for other fruit and vegetables, it is not technically possible. Perfumery, in its modern language, is a relatively young trade, it is about 120 years old, and we hope that in the near future research by the essence specialists will lead to extracting a greater amount of natural raw materials.

J ean miche L duriez

The solution for the moment remains that of combining as many natural ingredients as possible with other synthetic materials. In the three fragrances created, to respect the brief given by Mariela, I used as many natural ingredients as possible, including upcycled ones. I am satisfied with the result obtained, which has allowed us to remain in luxury perfumery.

EM: Can you describe the three fragrances to us? What do they have in common? JMD: All the fragrances in the range are inspired by nature or by the world of plants; Mariela, originally from Paraguay and who now lives in Limoges, France, finds herself in nature and the greatest expression of beauty and perfection. To express the world of Mariela, I invented an olfactory signature that was common to all three fragrances, so that by smelling one perfume, it recalls the other two, identifying the matrix of the brand, as for the footwear. The common base is called ‘cuir de fleur’, and is made up of the assembly of some ingredients: yerba maté, osmanthus, plant-based leather and oak moss. When assembled on the same base, they create an imaginary smell of a herbal leather. Just like when Mariela chooses to use latex instead of leather. ‘Mandarine & Maté Vert’ is the first fragrance, the ‘greenest-smelling’ of the three. It expresses the first walk in the morning that Mariela takes, barefoot in the grass, the complete immersion in nature with the plants as they wake up and transmit so much energy to you, together with that of yerba maté for her morning drink. The yerba maté mingles with sparkling accords of mandarin, lime and passionfruit. Along with fragrant scents of lavender and thyme, heightened by osmanthus and lime blossom. Woody notes of oakmoss, patchouli

and vetiver complement the green and dewy freshness of this morning fragrance.

‘Poire & Santal Blanc’ relates a Sunday afternoon that Mariela spends in complete relaxation, listening to her music and reading her books. For this zen moment, Mariela asked me to create a fragrance that represented this cool, sweet, relaxing and velvety side. The scent is illuminated by notes of crisp pear, bergamot, lemon and pink pepper, complemented by relaxing accords of white flowers, osmanthus, ylang ylang and blackcurrant.

Notes of sandalwood, oakmoss, plant leather and yerba maté infuse the fragrance with warmth. It is a very delicate fragrance that respects the delicate side of the Carlotha Ray maison.

‘Rose Blanche & Gardénia’ is a fragrance that sees Mariela first spend a lovely and slightly glamorous evening with friends, characterized by the French ‘art de vivre’ and then when she is alone, contemplating nature and remembering the lovely times of the evening. There are two important elements that complete one another for this fragrance: the rose, more classic which expresses the sexier and more glamorous side, and the gardenia, more exotic, which expresses a certain warmth and

modernity; this is supported by a note of musk which gives that elegant, poudré and tenacious touch, for an infinite and eternal star-studded night. It is a sensual scent which combines white rose, rose de mai, purple rose and gardenia. These notes are heightened by the ‘cuir de fleur’ signature, while oakmoss and yerba maté add a green twist.

EM: Are you satisfied by this new experience? Are you aware of having given a first important signal to the world of what you have defined ‘haute parfumerie engagée’?

JMD: I hope that both professionals and consumers perceive the signal that Carlotha Ray has wanted to give to the world of perfumery as well. I was very pleased to accept this change because I think that it is right for perfumery from today and for the years to come to set itself the constant objective of creating increasingly ecosustainable concepts, using new processes of extraction that extend the possibility of using natural and recycled materials. A new era is beginning for olfactory composition and I am delighted to have written three beautiful pages.

Claudia Stagno

faro TT i essenze

50 YEARS OF MADE IN ITALY

What is the perfume of 50 years of history of a company? That of the future in the case of Farotti Essenze, in which technical skills, creativity and innovative projects are blended, as top, middle and base notes. An imaginary pyramid which summarizes the heritage of values of the Riminibased company, emphasizing its distinctive approach, the concrete expression of authentic and recognizable Italian production.

fragrances and perfumes for the person and for the home are the main market segments of farotti essenze, as well as private label production for large companies and celebrities. from a simple workshop of essences to a company of international importance with a vast and diversified production.

The important goal of the fiftieth anniversary is both a finishing line and a new start. Celebrated with an event combining several senses last June together with the work team who, over time have contributed to the transformation of the artisanal workshop opened by Giuliano Farotti in 1972 into the current company, marks a real evolution which, today, projects itself towards new objectives, international expansion in the first place. Carrying on in the footsteps of the founder, after working alongside him for over fifteen years, are his daughters Letizia and Lara who, having grown up in the middle of raw materials and mouillettes, are now at the head of the company. The artisanal dimension of the beginnings, the alchemical fascination of the first workshop have not been abandoned, but reinterpreted in a contemporary way in the respect of tradition – and of the founder’s vision – to meet the constantly evolving needs of the different markets.

Farotti Essenze offers a service that ranges from the creation of fragrances (for cosmetics and home fragrances, linen and laundry) to the production of alcoholic perfumery for the person, bottling the finished product, packaging, design and logistics

Lara and Letizia Farotti

included following high standards of quality and an artisanal and tailor-made approach. “In the past year we have given an even greater impulse to topics related to sustainability, accelerating the actions all-round connected with the company’s social responsibility,” explains Lara Farotti, General Manager of the Rimini-based company. “How? In the first place by integrating clearly the ethical implications in the strategic corporate vision through, for example, initiatives of welfare of the employees, who today number about thirty, and donations of charities with valid projects of support for childhood and disadvantaged people, to make a concrete contribution to the fight against poverty and inequality. The objective is to be able to draw up, as other companies in the sector have already started to do, our report of sustainability and be transformed into a benefit company.”

“As for environmental sustainability,” adds Letizia Farotti, CEO and Commercial Director, “we are activating paths of awareness-raisingand training for all the employees. At the same time, reducing to zero emissions and the purchase of green energy are priority topics, while withtheTreedom platform, we have purchased 50 trees, an action aimed at capturing CO2 and helping the local communities where the trees are planted and, to finish, in collaboration with Ogyre, the first global platform for recovering waste from the sea, we are investing in the protection of water.”

Oriented towards B2C, the segment in which Farotti Essenze is making its debut, there is also the newly created Ateneo dell’Olfattoateneodellolfatto.com - which offers all fragrance fans and trade professionals the possibility to specialize and structure their olfactory culture through courses held by international experts. With different focuses integrated with one another – from full immersion of formulation to olfactory marketing, from the history of the art of perfumery to its aspects between science and society – the workshops conceived by Farotti will be accompanied by specific supports, starting from the raw materials that each participant will have at their disposal during the lessons and subsequently guaranteeing their availability. Both the raw materials and the instruments necessary to continue the exercises autonomously will be available on the site.

Here it is, the fragrance of the future.

LAYLA

COSMETICS

gENDERLESS SKINCARE AND MORE THIS SEASON!

LaylaSkin

Layla Cosmetics goes genderless with this new range of efficient products for daily skincare. LaylaSkin is a complete and technological line of skincare, a range of serums, creams, oils and lotions that are wholly dedicated to the face, eyes and neck to prevent and fight all imperfections. The range comprises eleven products, created to brighten, drain, perfect, firm, moisturize, cleanse and remove make-up, depending on the needs of any type of skin. Vita Mea is a soothing and moisturizing cleansing milk; Pro Skin Toner is a soothing and moisturizing toning lotion; Skin Off is a peeling and perfecting water; Impervius is a moisturizing make-up remover for waterproof makeup; Eye Lumen is a brightening, moisturizing and firming eye contour stick; Eye Drenum is an eye contour stick that fights bags, wrinkles and dark circles; Lumen is a moisturizing and brightening serum; Drenum is a draining serum. Lifthium is a lifting and firming serum, Excellum is a purifying perfecting serum and Maestade is a firming, moisturizing and brightening cream in a stick. The products are based on the technology

of niosomes, extraordinary vectors to conduct the active ingredients straight into the dermis easily crossing and penetrating the epidermis. As it is in the dermis that the active ingredients have to act to concentrate the supply of collagen and therefore the health of the skin, the niosomes in all the LaylaSkin products have this super power of being projected directly into the dermis. All the products are multitasking and genderless, while the face draining serum is the first of its kind in the world, as is the cream in a stick. LaylaSkin is an innovative skincare proposal that is easy, fast and surprising.

Layla cosmetics continues to be dynamic and innovative, presenting a wide range of new products this season

Rarity Nail Varnishes

After the now famous Rarity Eyeshadow, the marvellous three-chromatic powders are now nail varnishes! The collection of 12 nail varnishes meets every requirement: 6 in the traditional Layla Nail Polish Rarity version and 6 in the semi-permanent Layla Gel Polish Rarity. Six extraordinary colours are available in the two different versions, from Aurora, a nude rose gold with gold, rose and fuchsia highlights, to Beo, scarab/peacock with blue, violet, pink, light blue, green and teal highlights. The three-chromatic colours and multi-highlights with glossy and original finishes, change colour with the light as if by magic.

Audacious, strong and with great personality, it is perfect for every need. The large mirror and the square and compact shape of the palette make it extremely practical. The eyeshadows are non-allergic and nickel tested.

The Longer The Better Extra Black

The Longer the Better Extra Black is the evolution of success. After the classic and blue shades, the Layla Cosmetics mascara evolves to meet the most extreme requirements in terms of colour and definition.

ou Are a Rarity!

This is a palette with 16 eyeshadow colours in cool and warm shades, with bold pigments that ensure perfect application and coming in four different finishes.

Trichrome, eyeshadows that change colour with the light; Metal mirror, metallic eyeshadows with a mirror effect; Butterspark Duochrome, duochrome multi-glitter eyeshadows and Mat, totally opaque eyeshadows. The Trichrome and Metal Mirror eyeshadows, with an innovative finish and with multi-chromatic nuances, have a special creamy touch. Although powders, they are soft and compact, almost like a cream.

The Butterspark Duochrome eyeshadows, enriched with microglitter, are more full-bodied to the touch. They have an almost material texture which with the warmth of the skin tends to melt like butter. They are also perfect as a top coat.

The Mat eyeshadows have a soft texture in micronized powder and are perfect for any use and can even be layered to define and outline the hues better.

The chromatic study has been focused on making several types of make-up possible in a single palette, from the simple nude to the highly coloured.

The Longer The Better is the only mascara capable of creating polymer filaments which rest on the lashes, giving them extra length and volume. In this new version, the filaments are even more pigmented and thick and immediately coat the lashes for an even more visible and bold result.

Extra Black can be layered, it does not weigh down the lashes and is easy to remove. The mascara is formulated with two hydrosoluble polymer resins. On contact with the air the mascara thickens creating the filaments which are similar to the classic fibres but are made of the mascara itself.

When the mascara is closed, as it is no longer in contact with the air, it returns to the initial creamy state. This miracle of cosmetic technology means that the product remains creamy until the end and can be used until the very last “drop”.

The Longer The Better Waterproof

After Extra Black, Layla Cosmetics also presents The Longer The Better Waterproof. The is the only waterproof mascara capable of creating the polymer filaments which rest on the lashes, lengthening them and volumizing them. Based on the same formula as The Longer The Better Extra Black but waterproof as well, up to three coats of mascara can be applied to the lashes but it an be layered only before the formula dries on the lashes.

This mascara can be removed solely with a waterproof make-up remover.

IS THE SWISS COSMETIC BRAND BASED ON THE REqUIREMENTS AND PECULIARITIES THAT CHARACTERIZE ITS PLACE OF ORIgIN

HIgH qUALITY

EXCELLENT RAW MATERIALS AND HIgHLY qUALIFIED FORMULAS

NATURAL INgREDIENTS, NATIVE TO SWITZERLAND

PURITY OF INgREDIENTS

RELIABILITY AND gUARANTEED EFFECTIVENESS OF PRODUCTS

SwissOxx was inspired by the idea of offering the customer a full range of products specifically for face care.

It was created by researching and selecting exclusive innovative formulas, divided into three Collections, each meeting a specific skincare need or problem.

The main objective is to ensure fresh, purified, detoxified, regenerated, smooth, protected and rejuvenated skin every day, thanks to the constant use of SwissOxx creams.

The sophisticated packaging design and the sustainability of the materials used confirm the Brand’s focus on the environment.

Pure is the SwissOxx Collection containing Pure Arctic ingredients that is particularly suitable for people with mixed and oily skin. Constant use of the mask and cream will rebalance the skin and give you a fresh, purified face. This line is designed to repair, moisturize, cleanse, tone and revitalize the skin. Both products are formulated with pure ingredients that oxygenate the dermis.

urban Detox is the SwissOxx skincare Collection designed for a target group of women and men who live in metropolises. When the skin is particularly exposed to the smog and fine particles, typical of chaotic cities, when it is stressed by everyday life and dehydrated, the solution is Urban Detox! The Collection’s products have a preventive action aimed at protecting the skin from smog, fine dust and infrared light. At the same time they also have a curative action, tackling dryness by detoxifying and purifying the skin. This combination of serums, masks and creams, regenerates and oxygenates the skin using rich and harmonious compositions of antioxidant, detoxifying and repairing complexes.

Sublime Platinum is the Premium line by SwissOxx that uses refined and precious formulas containing Platinum and Caviar. The Platinum Peptides and Caviar Extracts in the products of this Collection, slow down the ageing process in the skin, uniforming it and making it silky smooth. They thus counteract the appearance of new wrinkles and reduce existing ones. They also help restore the skin’s original elasticity and improve its tone.

BesT coLor

25 YEARS OF SPECIALIZATION IN TOP MAKEUP

In 1997, Salvatore Izzo, who had matured 15 years of experience in the sale of beauty products, decided to found a brand of his own, Best Color, concentrating exclusively on make-up products. In a short period of time, Best Color Make Up has become highly specialized in the creation of advanced make-up products, which are dermatologically, ophthalmologically and clinically tested and approved by the US, Japanese and EC legislations, as well as being completely cruelty-free, without testing or ingredients or the final product on animals. In its earliest days, Best Color was only a slim line of lip make-up products, but over time and thanks to the focus and professionalism of the company, the range has become increasingly wide with an assortment of some 500 products and shades for the face, lips, eyes, hands and accessories.

EST C OLOR BESTSELLERS a complete line of high quality and performance

Invincible Matte Liquid Lipstick has a unique and versatile texture: creamy on application, once dry it is transformed into a matte and velvety veil of colour, giving an impeccable and intense finish that lasts all day. Its container is also unique, with a high neck and an ergonomically shaped applicator. The high collar ensures better product flow, while the ergonomically shaped sponge applicator adapts to the lips ensuring perfect and precise application without smudging. The tip allows defining the corners of the mouth and cupid’s bow, while the wider part ensures and excellent colour release for even application.

Devil Lashes Mascara, the formula of this mascara gives the volume and length women have always wanted in their lashes. It lso contains polymers to ensure excellent staying power of the mascara. The curved brush makes application ergonomic, following the natural shape of the lashes. The thin and slightly pointed tip allow capturing the lashes from the base and building up make-up. Finally, the brush’s short fibres ensure that the lashes come into contact with the bulk deposited in the inner part of the applicator, to release a greater amount of product on the lashes.

Marshmallow Foundation is a versatile and newly conceived texture which offers the possibility of building up to the desired coverage. The matte finish and long-lasting effect are obtained thanks to a highly absorbent texturizer and a particularly targeted powder. The formula is also rich in raw materials with beneficial properties: an emulsifier completely of plant origin, a humectant, a blend of waxes and Vitamin E, all with different moisturizing, emollient and antioxidant properties capable of leaving skin soft and supple.

Translucent Perfection Powder is an optical white powder which, once applied, is absolutely transparent, leaving skin velvety and even. The Perfect Cream Foundation has a unique packaging with an automatic mechanism, so that the sponge is released to apply the product. It hides discolouring and imperfections of the skin thanks to its high coverage formula.

Best Colors is a family business, with Salvatore’s daughter Serena who joined her father in the business as soon as she was eighteen.

Bottles -

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- Closures - Jars - Cappers - Bags - Pouches

- Labels - Tags - Raw Materials - Displays - Pumps - Valves - Ribbons

- Tubes - Finishes, decoration - Co-packing - Samples - DummiesModels, prototypes - Wedging solutions - Traceability AuthenticationPromotional Accessories - etc.

Cosmetics & Beauty - Fragrance - Skincare & Health carePharmaceuticals - Beverage - Wine & Spirits - Fine food - FashionWatches & Jewelry - Tableware - Decoration - Edition - Wellness - etc.

Lumson

COLLABORATES WITH PUSTERLA 1880 FOR THE INNOVATIVE XPAPER

“The future of the cosmetics sector lies within collaborations between companies in the supply chain”. Words from matteo moretti, President of Lumson, who collaborated with Pusterla 1880, another italian, family-run company, to create the multi-award winning XPaper, the paper airless packaging that was a winner at cosmopack awards 2022 and winner of the adi design i ndex 2021 “i nnovation Prize”.

SYNERGY, THE KEY TO GROWTH

The partnership came about naturally between Lumson, a leader in primary cosmetic packaging, and Pusterla, specialized in luxury secondary packaging which provided their support for the paper and printing part creating a coating out of cellulose acetate, biodegradable and eco sustainable.

“We’re proud of this collaboration and also of the results achieved with XPaper, a centerpiece of the new generation of airless packaging that unites innovation, functionality, and safety in a sustainable manner”, declared Matteo Moretti. Lumson’s President has clear ideas on collaboration between companies: “The ability for companies that share the same values to collaborate with each other, as was the case between Lumson and Pusterla, is a very important driver for growth not only for the individual companies involved but for the entire sector. In addition, networking is an optimal publicity vehicle for “Made in Italy” as well and a way to successfully face market challenges and seize new opportunities”.

Luca Meana, President of the Pusterla Group is also on the same page: “We’re convinced that the collaboration between various players on a single project represents a new frontier of sustainability. The sharing of know-how, commercial strength, and research and development among different companies

in the same supply chain is the ideal asset to develop sustainable innovation projects directed at different markets and customers”. At PCD Paris, the companies made their partnership official through a comarketing strategy: some XPaper samples were on display both at Lumson’s and Pusterla’s stand. Scanning a QR Code that was easily visible at both stands allowed you to get more information about the product. An initiative that will be replicated in September for Luxepack in Montecarlo.

XPAPER AND THE USE OF PAPER IN PRIMARY COSMETIC PACKAGING

Lumson’s paper airless isn’t only one of the most innovative airless designs on the market but it’s proven to be “the perfect combination of smart design, safety, and advanced functionality with a sustainable twist”. Being able to separate the plastic components from the paper ones once the product within is used up makes the packaging easily recyclable and in line with the principles of a circular economy: reduce, reuse, and recycle.

XPaper’s distinctive character can be found, first off, in the material that the bottle is made of: cardboard, a material that is conceptually and intuitively sustainable. Up until now, it hadn’t been used much in the world of primary packaging because it was considered “cheap” however today many things have changed and paper and cardboard have become materials to be regarded with interest, and for deluxe products as well. XPaper is a testament to this. Thanks to sophisticated printing technologies

and to the lamination with cellulose acetate which has a protective function and brings added value in terms of look and feel, the once “poor” cardboard material is transformed into a durable, sustainable, and sophisticated product that enhances both the container and its contents.

All while respecting the environment. The acetate lamination, in fact, is a process that enhances the material and doesn’t impair its recyclability.

On the contrary: the protective film, made from wood pulp and cotton wastes, both renewable and natural materials, is industrially compostable both in the shiny version used to give transparency and sheen, as well as the matte version that gives the paper an elegant and sophisticated effect. Currently patent-pending, XPaper unites sustainability with safety, another key term for cosmetic packaging.

In fact, the new paper airless is equipped with an internal pouch that guarantees the integrity of the seal and compatibility, and has a hermetic seal closure patented by Lumson.

LUMSON OBTAINS THE 2022 ECOVADIS GOLD MEDAL

Sustainability challenge surpassed with flying colors by the Lumson Group. In fact, in August, the Group obtained the Gold sustainability rating from EcoVadis, a worldwide platform that evaluates environmental, social, and ethical performances of companies according to 21 criteria grouped into 4 macro-areas: Environment, Labor & Human Rights, Ethics and Sustainable Procurement.

Beauty is among the various reviewed sectors that with 4085 companies, turns out to be one of the sectors that is most responsive to this topic. In recent years, pressure to manage sustainability has grown in the industry and the worries of stakeholders have grown regarding the impact on the supply chain, from the origin of raw materials to animal testing and disposal of packaging by consumers. It isn’t surprsing that managers are finding themselves facing growing challenges to protect brands and create new value for companies. This is why there are increasingly more companies that are choosing to work with EcoVadis,

recognized internationally as an authoratiative and reliable provider to evaluate CSR performance and monitor progress throughout the supply chain.

TRANSPARENCY AND RESPONSABILITY

If the reliability of a company in the sustainability field is measured looking at concrete actions and numbers, Lumson has demonstrated its commitment with facts. For years, the Group has been working to improve its sustainability index and increase its raiting: in 2020, with a score of 57/100, it obtained the Silver Medal and in 2021, it missed out on receiving the Gold Medal by a hair. In 2022, the Group was able to reach goals set in the last two years and with a score of 72/100, achieve the coveted Gold Medal, ranking among 3% of the best companies in the industry.

“The results obtained in 2022 are an important step in a long road of growth and continual improvement in our company. The Gold Medal is an important recognition of the commitment and effort undertaken by Lumson to integrate ESG criteria into the corporate business and make the supply chain more transparent. The certification reflects the responsible actions we’ve taken with respect to stakeholders and the system in which we operate”, commented the president, Matteo Moretti.

BACCAROSE

how to be a leader of distribution in a challenging market

EM: Let’s talk about the Baccarose organization…

EM: What are Baccarose’s main objectives?

EXPORT MAGAZINE: What happened in 2020?

BA: As CEO & ED of Baccarose Perfumes and Beauty Products Pvt Ltd, this was indeed special - it was a homecoming, when I came back to lead the group from December 2020 with an absolute mandate from the shareholders to ensure we remain and continue our dominance of the imported beauty business along with familiar partners, brands, and most importantly the most significant resource of an organization–The Baccarose Team whom I had worked with previously. The familiarity and known processes made it easier for me to streamline and take charge of the operations from day one.

BA: Baccarose is the largest luxury fragrance distribution company with clients such as department store retailers and ecommerce players, where we distribute our partner products for the end consumer. With 55 own brick-and-mortar stores in 18 cities across the country, our retail focus Parcos now extends its reach online for its consumers. Parcos provides an extensive selection of more than 50+ international luxury brands like Carolina Herrera, Gucci, Issey Miyake, Versace, Paco Rabanne, Dolce & Gabbana, Clarins, and more. Parcos’ brand assortment includes Fragrance, Makeup, and Skincare products. This online presence helps our customers buy international brands directly from our online platforms and also through other beauty aggregators. Parcos has always worked very closely with influencers in India to nurture international partnerships. From the consumers side, with a special focus towards the youth willing to invest in self-grooming, we target customers across age groups.

BA: Building a sustainable and profitable organization, where people have fun at work and learn every day on the job is what I have always strived for in all the organizations that I have led in my career. My largest learning over these decades has been that India is an execution market and not a strategy market and having the right partner in India is critical for any luxury brand to succeed. The biggest have failed or have limited presence because of going on their own, or not having the right partner in India. Hence investing in right teams, processes and bringing international experiences. We have strategically defined the growth strategy over the next few years with distinct levers of growth for Baccarose. We have also picked our partners in each channel who we will work with strategically to grow the industry. Creating a robust digital ecosystem to propagate and deliver seamless and efficient service via Parcos.com, and aggressively building our own brand Chambor to spearhead the massive segment in the colour segment and re-establish dominance

Baccarose has been a leader in the distribution of international luxury beauty brands since the last 40 years with a 60% market share, with an extravagant roster of fragrance, skincare & makeup brands. From establishing the very first fragrance counter in a departmental store in India in 1984, it is now present in 5,000+ points of sale in the country, with 380+ consumer-facing counters, 46 standalone Parcos stores, 29 offices, and 16 warehouses with trained consultants in retail stores all over India, giving the customer the best-in-class experience. The retail brand Parcos, established in 2004, has been synonymous with luxury, prestige, and authentic beauty products. To deliver a holistic omnichannel experience to its consumers, Parcos has recently launched Parcos.com, its online shopping destination for luxury fragrances and beauty, products. With 55 stores and slated to grow to 100 by the end of 2023. The Parcos omnichannel ecosystem is the largest fragrance player in the retail front as well in India.

INTERVIEW WITH BIJU ANTHONY, CEO & ED, BACCAROSE PERFUMES AND BEAUTY PRODUCTS PVT LTD

are on the cards. We are also developing licensee brands and launching more owned brands and evaluating market spaces where our presence can be established with strategic launches. From 22 brands earlier we now have approximately 70 brands and hence expansion is key with more international brands coming into our foray and leveraging our distribution.

EM: Which has been your strategy during pandemic?

BA: We used the time during the recent pandemic to rethink our business strategy, to realign, reboot, and transform ourselves into a more lean and efficient organization. There were apprehensions as the market conditions were uncertain and the beauty industry globally was hit due to the pandemic, and just as markets were starting to recover in the early months of last year, we were hit by the second wave, or lockdown. On the other hand, there is also the opportunity to use a situation to look for new opportunities, new beginnings with the new fiscal. We launched Parcos.com during this time and also our first of its kind - annual property for awarding beauty influencers, called Parcos Beauty Influencers Awards 2022.

EM: Do you think that the distribution system has changed tremendously?

BA: The current distribution of Luxury Beauty products is experiencing a shift from being predominantly available across departments and lifestyle stores to going digital with a part of audiences shifting to online buying and speciality beauty formats for a better experience and convenience. Luxury brands will still seek formats like Parcos or standalone stores in order not to dilute brand equity. For luxury skin and colour, today India does not have too many formats that can house brands in their full glory. We are developing a new Parcos Luxe format that will give these bands the retail ambience their customers need. The department store retailers in India unlike other countries have been unable to upgrade their stores and the beauty category in their stores, and hence the

format is a declining format for our industry. Consumer have moved to purchasing beauty products either from speciality formats or from ecommerce, where they are able to experience beauty brands and especially luxury brands in their full glory. Tier 2 and 3 markets have shown distinct traction for Prestige beauty products and with the growing demand, brands would need to be online to be able to deliver and therefore expand the market via online presence. Omnichannel experience is core and now the consumer wants the flexibility to experience brands both in the store as well as to have the liberty to buy online. The growing consumption from across consumer strata will help expand the pie and fuel growth for the Luxury Beauty business. The aspirational middle class is now spending on lifestyle and luxury as some of the prevalent modes of entertainment for them have been muted on account of COVID. There is also an increased self-awareness that has come about from the myriad of content created by influencers who are now driving purchase decisions, impulsive purchases, and trials of several newer categories unheard of in the past. There is a considerable shift in the distribution formats for the Luxury Beauty industry. From Beauty Assistants driving advocacy now, it’s the beauty influencers who are fuelling demand and driving purchase decisions and trials via social media. Consumers have evolved with international exposure and an influx of content across various digital screens. Whilst luxury is still niche there is an increasing aspirational demand generated from the tier 2 and 3 markets over the last five years.

Consumers are now a more evolved set with distinct tastes and self-expression is key which has given additional traction to fashion and beauty categories. Even new alliances, market tie-ups, giving a distribution platform to celebrities and Indian brands could be a suitable way to segment and augment the beauty consumption market in India.

EM: When it comes to your organization, what are you most proud of?

BA: We started Baccarose to give the Indian

consumer the experience that is required for storytelling when experiencing luxury brands. Very few retail formats today offer that to the consumer, as with large format stores, adjacencies and merchandising have limitations. Parcos has established its presence across the country, servicing customers across Metros, Tier-1, and Tier-2 cities and we are planning to expand further from bigger metro airports to even smaller airports as Guwahati, Siliguri, Coimbatore and others. At Baccarose, we aim to deliver an omnichannel consumer experience. Apart from providing a holistic shopping experience, Parcos looks at translating brand equity offline to online with the brand’s dedicated shop-in-shop concept, gifts with purchase, and much more. Community engagement through curated content IPs with influencers, educational content, social media, and more, is in the roadmap ahead.

EM: Let’s talk about the Parcos Beauty Influencer Awards 2022…

BA: We recently announced 22 winners of Parcos Beauty Influencer Awards 2022, at a glamorous awards night in Mumbai, in the presence of eminent celebrities. The winners will be inducted into the ‘Elle Hall of Fame’ for Parcos Beauty Influencer Awards and be offered a brand partnership with Parcos. The associate partners of this event were Jimmy Choo Parfums, Shiseido, Carolina Herrera, and Chambor. With over 80mn worth media reach and across 180 media channels online, offline and social, we have been able to create a significant buzz in the 1st year. And we hope to make it even bigger next year and garner content creators for effective buzz on our brands. The award has crafted a journey of its own since the last few months of the announcement. Whether the initial entries, the jury shortlist, or the public voting; at each stage, we have received a great response from the beauty influencer community in India helping us reinstate the faith in the veracity, usefulness, and mere establishment of such awards that can help youngsters of today create a journey of their own in their loved industry.

Claudia Stagno

LEIJTENS IMPORT

30 Years aT The serVice of The BeauTY indusTrY

INTERVIEW WITH EliSE lEiJTENS

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Can you describe shortly your company’s history? Which has been its evolution during all these years, also considering market evolution?

ELISE LEIJTENS: Our family company was founded more than 30 years ago, starting in the cosmetic field. Peter Leijtens started with Douglas Perfumeries and Marlies Leijtens has a medical background and lot of experience in teaching beauticians. With this expertise, they decided to start their own distribution cosmetics company called Leijtens Import BV. The daily business is now in hands of Elise Leijtens & Willem Leijtens. Elise has a background in marketing and Willem in business administration. They began with the Benelux market and for a couple of years, we are now conquering the EU market with our great brands! Our vision is to differentiate the self-care market with new inspiring brand discoveries.

Willem and Elise Leijtens, the second generation of Leijtens Import BV

We help (new) brands to build strong brand awareness within the different markets. We constantly analyze data, so when we notice changes in the market, we jump into that adapting the strategy to the brand and country we are targeting. Our vision is to obtain long-term cooperation, become one with the brand, and partner with the retailers. We believe that is the way to conquer the market. EM: How is organized your distribution today in Holland? EL: Since our main business is beauty distribution we have all the experts in-house. We see ourselves as retail matchmakers. Finding the perfect match between brand and retailer makes our hearts beat a little bit faster. Thanks to our extensive database, we have both online and offline partners in all fields. From small, unique independent concept stores to big drugstore chains and from luxury department stores to standalone beauty schools, we can find the perfect fit for each brand. In addition, we are also working on a B2C level, that helps us to communicate with the end consumer and collect important sales data. Once there is a match from both sides our marketing team jumps in. Together with the sales team, we create a launch plan and a 360 marketing strategy per retailer. Our marketing team is working on content for social media (@leijtensimport) but also for offline and online retailers. Our purchase department works with a system that generates an algorithm based on previous orders to optimize our stock, and we do that in our warehouse. We use automated processes for fast order picking, and deliveries and regenerate track & trace codes for all B2B & B2C consumers. We make sure every package is carefully packed to avoid any damage.

EM: Did you expand your activity also in other geographical areas?

EL: We started in the Benelux market and for a few years, we are developing the EU market, which means adapting our sales and marketing strategy to the different countries. We have our international sales team with people speaking the local languages. The brand is always involved in choosing the right retailers to target!

EM: Do you carry also your brand, besides distributing brands from a few companies?

EL: We don’t have our own brand, but we have our own B2C channel called beautytasting.com. However, we have the experience so we can help indie beauty brands with the registrations for the EU market. This is a service we offer to new smaller brands to help them start their business.

EM: Do you carry on different marketing strategies depending on the brands you are dealing with?

EL: We work with a strong marketing program based on the need of every single brand. We know that every brand requires a special approach. The marketing tools that we use to organize the best brand awareness are Social Media, Search Engine Marketing, E-mail marketing, PR/influencers, in-store promotions, and COOP/retailer marketing.

EM: How important is communication within the beauty industry? How do you promote your business?

EL: We promote our business by performing not only towards the brand but also with retailers. We are 30 years in the cosmetic industry for a reason, and we have experienced that working hard and getting results is the best publicity we can ever wish for. The cosmetic industry is big but at the same time small, since the rotation in between jobs is high, we will all meet again at a fair, congress, presentation, or press event. We work with passion and professionalism making sure we reach our goals year by year and for many more!

Claudia Stagno

22

a fundamenTaL Year for The BeauTY indusTrY

results, but above all great enthusiasm for the return to events and relations in-person. These are definitely encouraging signs which drive us to continue working for the coming months to organize events that are increasingly in line with the current ways of working and with the new ways of business.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Can we say that the trade show world in general is at last emerging from a troubled period? In particular, what is the perception that Cosmoprof and BolognaFiere currently have?

ENRICO ZANNINI: We are very optimistic about the future. The events of the Cosmoprof network that have been held so far - Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna and Cosmoprof North America – have recorded excellent

EM: Cosmoprof Bologna Worldwide and Cosmopack, long awaited by the beauty industry, brought together the most important players, from suppliers to the brands to the world of distribution. Were the figures, as well as the enthusiasm to meet again, satisfying?

EZ: Cosmoprof and Cosmopack in Bologna had over 2,700 companies from 70 countries and 220,000 presences from 144 different countries. Compared to 2019, these results are excellent, considering the difficulties linked to the restrictions still in force in some markets and the international political situation. The main buyers, retailers, professionals and distributors came to Bologna to discover what’s new and to resume relations, projects and commercial agreements. They were 5 days of great satisfaction and very profitable business meetings.

EM: Cosmoprof North America has just come to an end, in the middle of July. What were the results compared to the expectations? There was also a large presence of Italian companies…

EZ: Cosmoprof North America 2022 was full of new things: a new exhibition area, a new format (from Tuesday to Thursday) and a better division of the areas with specific halls for the finished product of Cosmoprof and for the proposals of the supply chain of Cosmopack.

Cosmoprof renews its commitment for international development from East to West

In this case too, the results were very good, with more than 1,100 companies from 47 countries and 32,000 professionals who came to Las Vegas from 98 countries. We also activated a very positive collaboration with the ITA (Italian Trade Agency) to invite over 70 Italian companies to the event, which thanks to funds from the ITA were able to present their collections and new products to the stakeholders at the event.

EM: How important is the American market for your Group, from a strategic point of view? In Las Vegas we noticed a large presence of operators from Central and South America: is this an area of interest that you intend to increasingly cultivate?

EZ: Over the last few months the American market has recorded important signs of recovery, thanks also to the continuation in some Asian countries of restrictions and the blocked circulation of international goods. Latin America is also particularly active at the moment, and Las Vegas, due to its geographical vicinity, is an important stage for come into contact with operators in Central and South America. As the main business partner for the operators in the cosmetic industry, we continue to monitor the developments of old and new markets, thanks also to the collaboration with partners, agencies and international analysis centres, to be able to offer increasingly performing services to our companies and the operators who follow our events.

EM: The autumn is full of appointments in the Far East, from CBE in Bangkok to Cosmoprof India and Cosmoprof Asia. This shows the renewed interest – after a forced period at a standstill – in Asian markets. What is your strategy for these shows, always with an international connotation?

EZ: The Far East is a fundamental geographical area for business related to the beauty sector. Despite the difficulties of the past few months, we are excited at the idea of going back to events in presence in the

area and once again meeting our local community. The first appointment will be in Bangkok, Thailand, with Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN, from 15 to 17 September: this is a first edition that is particularly anticipated, gathering interest from operators ready to evaluate new development in the markets of south-east Asia. Further dates are Cosmoprof India, in Mumbai, from 6 to 8 October, local industry are very excited about the return of the event, because Cosmoprof is a fundamental occasion to discover trends, habits and the new types of consumer in the country. Cosmoprof Asia also returns from 16 to 18 November, this year exceptionally in Singapore, to make up for the restrictions still in force in China. The appointment with Cosmoprof Asia has been a key moment for 25 years for the foreign development strategies of many cosmetic companies: we cannot wait to at last be back in presence, to discover how the main markers in the Asia-Pacific region have evolved.

EM: The ITA is increasingly present at your side to support Italian companies on their path towards internationalization. Will it be the same for these three events?

EZ: The support of the ITA has proven to be fundamental over the last few months to help Italian companies present themselves on the world’s main markets. We are proud of being able to have the ITA at our side for the forthcoming appointments as well, to contribute together to the relaunch of the Italian cosmetics industry.

EM: 2022 was characterized by the re-start. What will the ‘mantra’ be for 2023?

EZ: The relaunch of our sector inevitably passes through connections and relations. Our objective is to bring discussion with partners and new collaborators back to the centre, because it is interpersonal exchange that leads to developing new ideas and sharing suggestions and projects.

Claudia Stagno

BolognaFiere Group, Informa Markets, and the Professional Beauty Association join forces to deliver a monumental partnership to Accelerate growth in the U.S. Beauty & Personal Care Industry

Three leading B2B trade shows organizers BolognaFiere, Informa Markets, and PBA –Professional Beauty Association are joining forces to deliver the largest and most impressive series of beauty events in the US beauty market. Beginning in January 2023, BolognaFiere, Informa Markets and PBA will combine their extensive beauty industry knowledge and network to create a best-in-class event format with unrivalled reach. BolognaFiere and PBA currently partner on the Cosmoprof North America show, held in Las Vegas, which was a resounding success in its 2022 edition. Over 32,000 retailers, distributors, investors, beauty brands, suppliers, and the press connected with over 1,100 exhibiting brands to discover new product launches and facilitate business. PBA, who currently organizes ISSE in Long Beach, will now evolve the show to be a part of the Premiere Beauty expansion in Anaheim, one of several events in the new USA Beauty portfolio. Beginning in 2024, BolognaFiere, PBA, and Informa Markets are willing to expand the Cosmoprof North America brand, bringing beauty industry professionals together in one of the highest growth markets in the U.S., Miami, FL which will also be well positioned to serve the Latin American market. While Cosmoprof North America and Premiere have different attendee value propositions, by partnering, the three organizations are able to better

leverage the power of the two industry leading brands, delivering extraordinary value, more robust digital offerings and data enrichment opportunities to a level never achieved in the beauty industry across the U.S. The joint venture would combine the industry-leading brands under the USA Beauty Portfolio, which would be led by industry veteran Ed McNeill with Meredith Loza and Marco Labbate leading Marketing and Sales, respectively in cooperation with the Sales and Marketing teams of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof. An expanded call center is also planned to launch in Orlando supporting the U.S. portfolio. “With Cosmoprof North America’s exceptional customer experience and Premiere’s bestin-class education and data strategy, this partnership will bring truly unmatched quality and service levels to the beauty industry,” said Ken McAvoy, President of Informa Markets’ South Florida Ventures portfolio “Together, we can leverage the best of each brand across the entirety of the portfolio, creating an unrivalled customer experience.” “The agreement is a fundamental step for the consolidation of the international expansion of BolognaFiere. The U.S. market is particularly in the spotlight today, given the current uncertainties in the Asian continent after the forced stop of recent months”, said Gianpiero Calzolari, President of BolognaFiere Group. “Cosmoprof is a unique model, also thanks

to the synergies with our international partners, Informa and PBA. Cosmoprof is a flagship of the Italian trade fair system, and we are proud as BolognaFiere Group to continue to increase its prestige and growth worldwide”. “We are thrilled to announce this partnership,” said Enrico Zannini, General Manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof. “Together with Informa Markets and PBA, our trusted partners, we will offer more business and educational opportunities for the US beauty industry, supporting the industry in its growth, and offering more value to our customers.” “This partnership is an exciting opportunity for continued growth for all sectors in the beauty industry,” says Nina Daily, Executive Director of the Professional Beauty Association. “PBA is committed to supporting and elevating beauty professionals, and the partnership with Informa Markets and BolognaFiere offers the best-in-class event opportunities for the industry as a whole.” “The industry has been asking for our commitment to align industry leaders and we are thrilled to take a historic next step towards delivering on that commitment,” noted Ed McNeill, Vice President of the Informa Markets, U.S. Beauty Portfolio. “This positions our brands to deliver education, content, digital and community to an unparalleled level. By combining our resources, we can offer the best experience possible for the beauty industry.” The beauty community can expect dramatically expanded marketing and sponsorship opportunities, the ability to easily participate in multiple shows through multi-show contracts opportunities, better support through the expanded call center, additional educational opportunities, and access to global markets. This partnership is a landmark one for the U.S. beauty industry, bringing the best business opportunities, education, connection, and innovation to cities across the country, under a single umbrella.

oPac BeauTY PiLLs

WIN IT AWARDS MAKE-UP IN NEW YORK

The important MakeUp in New York event, which was held in the Big Apple on 14 and 15 September and is a global point of reference for the sector, was the venue where the IT Awards MakeUp were announced. Every year, the best innovations in the field of makeup and skincare are distinguished. The selective evaluation is carried out by a jury of international experts who examine the candidate products according to their capacity to meet current and future market trends. There are four categories in the competition: formulation, packaging, accessories and full service.

The Beauty Pills by OPAC, which are a real revolution in the approach to skincare from the point of view of the consumer, the environment, the formulation and production, won the Formulation Award.

In the first place, it is a completely innovative sensory experience: they are solid tablets which dissolve in less than 20 seconds on contact with a few drops of water, becoming a light and velvety texture to be applied to the skin.

The product can be completely customized in terms of active ingredients and performance, fragrances, colours and shapes. It can offer different cosmetic applications for the face and body, according to the active ingredients used: moisturizing, anti-ageing, tanning, brightening with pearls or mechanical scrubs.

The Beauty Pills were distinguished in particular for the approach to the environment and conscious consumption: they foster the elimination of waste, because each tablet corresponds to one application and the powder format allows a longer PAO.

In addition, they are water-free therefore they imply a saving of water both during the industrial production and during the use of the products. Overall, they reduce the carbon footprint, because the lightweight and compact format also allows optimizing packaging and transport. The formulation is entirely based on natural components, compressed into tiny pastilles through a cold production process and without preservatives or water. This format also guarantees maximum hygiene and reduces contamination before and after application to zero, because the tablets are activated only at the time of use.

in

“No water waste & upselling performance: our commitment for sustainable and efficacious innovation is perfectly represented by this product which reduces waste to zero and increases the added value for the consumer,” says Antonio Bartesaghi, President of OPAC. The Beauty Pills are the last frontier of solid cosmetics, a real technological revolution for this sector.”

INDIAN CELEBRITIES & OMNICHANNELS TAkE ThE S TAGE IN BEAuT y

VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY

Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has become one of the most sought after management and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business sectors and extensive distribution channels it works with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans both well-established names and newly-emerging brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach. Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally. A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director. From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry. Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and her central Paris office as well as managing a satellite network in Russia & China.

There are many compelling reasons to invest in India. India’s benchmark Nifty 50 (the weighted average of 50 of the largest listed Indian companies), posted a return of almost 44% in 2021 (to October 5, 2021). On top of that, analysts are forecasting a further earnings growth of 35 % for the big companies in the Nifty 50 Index. In addition to company earnings, India’s economic indicators, such as Gross Domestic Product (GDP) are also bouncing back from historic lows after the coronavirus pandemic. Interest rates are at their lowest levels in two decades. And, estimates for GDP growth are 8-10% for 2022– the highest of any emerging markets country. India’s $850 billion retail market is the fourth largest market in the world.

Finally, the COVID-19 lockdown transformed consumer purchasing patterns in India, with the majority of consumers shifting to online platforms, even for their essentials and daily needs. Indeed, in India, the e-commerce industry is expected to grow to US$ 200 billion by 2026 (it was US$ 38.5 billion in 2017) and is slated to become the second-largest in the world by 2034. Furthermore, the e-retail industry in India is primed to reach nearly 300 to 350 million shoppers in the next five years – propelling online Gross Merchandise Value (GMV) from $100 to 120 billion by 2026. This incredible growth is fueled by the increasing base of first-time internet and smartphone users –an outcome of ‘Digital India’ campaign.

TRENDS: OMNICHANNEL RETAIL PROVIDES ACCESS TO GLOBAL BRANDS

A healthy share of purchases in premium beauty and personal care categories such as fragrances, skin care and colour cosmetics have traditionally been made via duty-free shops at airports. However, the pandemic necessitated bans on travel, to and from India. Businesses adapted by using teleconference technology. Both the opportunity and need for international travel dropped off, almost entirely. This resulted in the demand for premium products being re-directed to Indian retailers such as: Nykaa, Purplle, Parcos, Sephora, etc.

ShARE OF ONLINE BEAuTy AND PERSONAL CARE MAkET IN INDIA 2021

40%

As of August 2020, India had 760 million internet connections. According to Euromonitor’s International’s Economies and Consumers data, in 2021, the percentage of the Indian population using the internet in India increased to 48%, in comparison with just 29% in 2016. In fact, India’s online retail sales are forecast to jump from last year’s $42.8 billion to $51.52 billion, and is projected to reach almost $120 billion by 2024. Last year, the Indian online sector was the secondfastest-growing market, despite the global pandemic. In addition to low interest rates, high liquidity and fiscal incentives have helped India claim a “hot emerging market” position. But within that “hot emerging market,” the largest potential for growth stands to come from e-commerce. In regards to beauty e-commerce/ e-tailer players, the ecosystem has seen a paradigm shift, with e-commerce as the distribution channel providing big gains. E-commerce gains have even spurred new brick-and-morter shops, as physical entities of online only brands & businesses. A closer look at this landscape is now, more-than-ever, important if a company is to capitalize on the opportunity India currently offers.

Nykaa Others Purple MyntraGoodGlammAmazonandFlipkart

Nykaa launched The Global Store (TGS) in July 2021, which imports and offers international beauty brands to consumers in India under one roof. The platform, accessed by consumers exclusively through the Nykaa mobile application, provides prices inclusive of customs, duties and taxes. TGS offers brands from countries such as the US, South Korea and Finland, which were not previously available in India. To compete with Nykaa, Reliance and Tata also announced their plans to launch online platforms that cater to beauty and skin care demands.

Reliance will be fully integrated with Reliance’s AJIO platform, which currently sells products such as apparel and personal accessories. In the long term, the retailer has announced soon opening Sephora-style retail stores to cater to the needs of offline shoppers. Tata plans to launch several private label lines through its platform, which will also be distributed through its Westside stores nationwide, offering an omnichannel experience to consumers.

Myntra is another major online retailer that has announced its expansion plans in the industry. Its competitive advantage (in selling fashion products such as apparel online) puts it in a strong position to expand and succeed in the beauty and personal care space. Another premium beauty and personal care retailer, Parcos, announced the launch of its online platform in 2021, but also opened stores in tier-2 and tier-3 cities, such as Lucknow. Expansion, like that of Parcos (of online presence in smaller cities), is making premium offerings more accessible to consumers outside of major metroploes.

Not only are offline retailers entering the online channel, but online retailers are also expanding in the offline space. Online retailer Nykaa, which led the online channel in December 2021, announced that it would open 300 stores nationwide and would expand its offline presence. Similarly, even D2C brand Mamaearth announced that it would focus on its offline presence by expanding to 100 cities from its current 70 cities. Analysts project that omnichannel retailing will remain the key priority for all major brands in beauty and personal care, but the question of online vs offline sales (which poses a greater demand) remains to be seen in the future. What’s certain is, with so many large retailers announcing their entry online, and online shops going taking foot offline, the competition is expected to intensify, making an already competitive industry even more heated.

CASE STUDIES

Baccarose has been a leader in the distribution of international luxury beauty brands for 40 years with a 60% market share. From establishing the very first fragrance counter in a department store in India in 1984, it is now present in 5,000+ points of sale in the country. The retail brand Parcos has recently launched Parcos.com, its online shopping destination for luxury fragrances and beauty products. With 55 stores and slated to grow to 100 by the end of 2023, the Parcos omnichannel

ecosystem is the largest fragrance player in the retail front as well in India. Biju Anthony, CEO of Baccarose Perfumes and Beauty Products

Pvt ltd. Says that, “My greatest learning over these decades has been that India is an execution market and not a strategy market and having the right partner in India is critical for any luxury brand to succeed. The biggest have failed or have limited presence because of going on their own, or not having the right partner in India. Hence investing in right teams, processes and bringing international experiences.” Baccarose has created a robust digital ecosystem to propagate and deliver seamless and efficient service via Parcos.com, and aggressively building its own brand Chambor to spearhead the massive segment in the colour segment and re-establish dominance are on the cards. Licensee brands are also planned as well as launching more owned brands. From 22 brands, Baccarose now has approximately 70 brands and hence expansion is of key importance. Baccarose used the time during the recent pandemic to rethink its business strategy, to transform itself into a more lean and efficient organization. Parcos.com was launched in this period. Consumers have moved away from department stores to purchase beauty products either from speciality formats or from ecommerce. There is a considerable shift in the distribution formats for the Luxury Beauty industry. From Beauty Assistants driving advocacy now, it’s the beauty influencers who are fuelling demand and driving purchase decisions and trials via social media. Baccarose aims to deliver an omnichannel consumer experience. Community engagement through curated content IPs with influencers, educational content, social media, and more, is in the roadmap ahead.

Beauté Luxe, a leader in the distribution of perfumes and cosmetics in travel-retail and domestic markets in Africa, has announced a partnership with Beauty Concepts, a giant in the distribution of perfumes and cosmetics in India. These companies will work to open travel-retail outlets which will bear the name Beauté Luxe.

David Dayan, CEO of Beauté Luxe India

Biju Antony - CEO & ED, Baccarose Perfumes and Beauty Products Pvt Ltd.

Beauty Concepts is the largest distributor in India with nearly 140 brands in its portfolio and many outlets across India. They now cover the entire spectrum of distribution, from mass market to niche, and have even opened their own stores to be able to ensure that luxury brand standards are met at all times. Rajiv Bahety, current President of Beauty Concepts, describes the company: “When we talk about Beauty Concepts, we tell the story of pioneers who envisioned the idea of offering Indian consumers the ability to easily find and purchase beauty products from all over the world, all over India.” Bahety’s words describe well the ethos behind much of what’s happening in the e-retail/e-commerce industry in India today—the key objective being, to bring the world’s products to the Indian consumer in small and big cities, alike. Looking ahead, Beauty Concepts plans to expand and increase the number of Beauté Luxe duty-paid stores in domestic airports, increasing their existing presence in some domestic airports in India. After opening the first Beauté Luxe store in Kolkata, three more stores will open between 2022 and 2023 in Cochin, Amritsar, and Indore. These stores will offer a travel-retail type of service with a unique concept: retail with experiential engagements & upscale services tailored to travelers with time-constraints,” explains David Danyan, the founder of Beaute Luxe.

TO CONSIDER: RURAL AREAS

UNDER-PENETRATED

65% of the total Indian population still resided in rural areas in 2021, as per Economies and Consumers data. Although D2C brands increased, allowing nationwide access to products for both urban and rural consumers alike, there still needs to be a lot of work done on the part of companies wanting to reach customers in rural areas. Internet penetration and the adoption of online shopping is still not as high in India as in some other markets. Though it is expected to change, for now, companies are still limited to markets in less rural areas.

also focusing on beauty and personal care. Katrina Kaif was amongst the first, launching the brand Kay Beauty in 2019 by collaborating with Nykaa. However, several others have since entered the industry, such as Masaba Gupta. This trend continued in 2021, with Indian Bollywood actress Deepika Padukone announcing that she would be launching her own lifestyle brand in 2022, with beauty products, including skin care. Along similar lines, in October 2021, South Indian film actress Keerthy Suresh announced the launch of the organic skin care brand Bhoomitra. The brand targets consumers who are seeking natural skin care products.

TOP TRENDS: SKIN CARE, MEN’S CAR, PERSONALISATION, CHILD-SPECIFIC PRODUCTS & NUTRACEUTICALS

The pandemic had a positive impact on sales of skin care products, globally. Home isolation shifted consumer priorities. As a result, more time and money is now spent on skin care routines and less on make-up. Around 50% of India’s female population falls in the age group of 30-year-olds and above, (according to Euromonitor International’s Economies and Consumers data). The opportunity for skin care companies to tap into this market is ripe. The per capita disposable income levels for females in India has increased by a 5% CAGR between 2016 and 2021, making the opportunity even more interesting for companies.

TOP TREND: CELEBRITIES LAUNCH THEIR OWN BRANDS

India has a large youth population that looks up to film stars and wants to purchase products that are celebrated or created by them. Celebrities launching their own product lines, especially in the fashion industry, has, therefore, always been commonplace in India. However, these celebrities are now

One of the highest-paid actresses in India, Katrina Kaif attends the Nykaa Beauty awards 2020 in Mumbai, India

Hence, during the coming years, it is projected that anti-agers will experience solid growth due to the rise in demand and the expansion of the category, as more young women use these products.

The Gen Z and Gen Alpha populations (groups of people that are born between 1995-2009 and 2010-2024, respectively) also represent a growth opportunity for brands. According to Euromonitor International’s Economies and Consumers Data, these age groups accounted for 47% of the total population in India as of 2021. This population base is known to be active on social media platforms, outgoing, and ready to spend on beauty. There are several brands that are emerging that are focused on these age groups. For example, in early 2022, a new skin care brand, Fabbeu, was launched that has a strong focus on the Gen Z population.

MEN’S CARE

According to Euromonitor International’s Economies and Consumers data, as of 2021, 52% of the entire Indian population is male, offering companies a consumer base rooted in largest population segment in the country. This has resulted in several direct-to-consumer (D2C) brands entering the market in the last few years, such as The Bombay Shaving Company, Ustraa and Beardo. In addition, to offering traditional shaving products, these companies also offer products such as beard oils, body wash/shower gel, hair growth products, hair oil, fragrances and face serums, empowering men with skin care ranges suited to their varying needs. During the coming years, new beauty and personal care companies are projected to enter the category, especially those offering premium men’s grooming products for the modern man.

PERSONALIZATION

AYURVEDIC SKIN CARE

Globally, skincare brands that combine wellness, clean ingredients, and ethics of sustainability are in demand. In India, Ayurveda which brings together these elements are rising in demand and are projected to continue to be sought out.

Consumers feel safe using products with Ayurvedic ingredients or processes, as they are natural, and hence have (what is perceived to be) no side-effects. Taking note of this, in 2022, Honasa Consumer Private Limited (HCPL) (which operates Mamaearth) and The Derma Co. together have launched Ayuga, a skin care brand based on Ayurvedic recipes. Collaborating with Bollywood actress, and yoga and wellness ambassador, Shilpa Shetty Kundra, the brand aims to tap into demand from millennials, who complain of hectic lifestyles. Shahnaz Husain Group expanded its portfolio of herbal and Ayurvedic skin care products and launched new products using Ayurvedic oils, as well as extracts of sandalwood, jasmine, rose, vetiver, aloe vera, wheatgerm, and almond. Lastly, in October 2021, Vedix, which focuses on Ayurveda-based beauty products, expanded its portfolio by launching skin care products for men, which include moisturizers and face serums.

Personalisation has become evident in categories such as fragrances and colour cosmetics. For example, Givaudan Fragrances, Scentmatic, Firmenich and Ninu Perfume are a few of the companies that are leveraging AI technology in some capacity to enhance the consumer experience. Analysts project that more companies will work on offering recommendations and products driven by artificial intelligence, as this category becomes increasingly popular and in-demand globally, as well as more trusted by younger generations.

CHILD SPECIFIC PRODUCTS

Parents have become concerned about exposing their newborns and their sensitive skin to harmful chemicals. Hence, there has been a rise in companies offering safe baby-related products. For example, D2C company The Ayurveda Company recently launched a baby care range by the name of T.A.C Junior, that offers 100% Ayurvedic products. Along similar lines, Godrej Consumer Products also launched its own brand goodnessme in October 2021, offering baby care products that are manufactured using organic ingredients. Also, it must be noted that when it comes to baby-related products, parents are open to

making slightly more premium purchases than what their pockets may actually allow. India was the country with the second largest population globally in 2021, after China. The country has a high baby population. As of 2021, 7% of the Indian population was in the age group 0-3 years (according to Euromonitor International’s Economies and Consumers data). Here again, India offers up another consumer base with a strong potential (to tap into), for those companies willing to meet the demand for natural baby products. Additionally, it must be noted that online & D2C brands gained momentum in regards to sales of baby products due to the pandemic. Traditionally, baby and child-specific products experienced solid sales through the offline channel, as young mothers preferred to look at products before making a purchase for their little ones. However, during the pandemic, parents made online purchases as they didn’t want to risk going out, and consequently, have themselves and their new-born contract the COVID-19 virus. With internet penetration increasing and mothers becoming more comfortable making online purchases, these brands are projected to see an additional push during the years to come.

NUTRACEUTICALS

The Indian nutraceuticals industry is now dominated by functional foods, followed by dietary supplements. The market for fortified foods and probiotics will be driven by this trend. Supplements of vitamins and minerals will see high demand in the forthcoming years. Herbal supplements and protein/amino acid supplements are expected to have similar market revenues in the future and collectively hold half of the market revenue. As per Future Market Insights analysis, the market for nutraceutical gummies, a preferred product format, is predicted to grow at a 15% CAGR between 2021 and 2031. Demand for nutraceutical excipients is predicted to increase at a CAGR of 7.10% between 2021 and 2031. In the future, the industry will benefit from rising sales of nutritional supplements and multi-functional excipients. Dry nutraceutical excipients account for more than 3/5 of all nutraceutical excipients consumed.

As an emerging market, India offers a wealth of opportunities for beauty brands ready to invest in an

omnichannel approach and a celebrity brand ambassador. Brands that incorporate top trends and meet consumer demands are most likely to succeed. The time to get in is now, as competition will only grow in the near future, and growth is still limited to urban or semi-urban areas.

An insight on

ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

PeeK aT The Pages of a

XERJOFF

SKETCHBOOK

The Sketchbook Collection

Never one to compromise on aesthetics or design, only the finest quality materials, combined with outstanding design and modern craftsmanship, result in a perfume to cherish in its art form. Leafing through the pages, each perfume has been created and carefully selected with its flacon in mind, all from Sergio’s Sketchbook.

Page. 33

Exquisite and exclusive, the first creation from the Sketchbook collection is Page 33. Each Tuscan handcrafted flacon is masterfully made using only the finest quality materials, guarding the natural ingredients within which make up the enticing notes of P.33. Floral and fruity, P.33 opens with fresh hits of bergamot, grapefruit, apple and baie rose, which leads to an elegant heart of iris, cinnamon and cypress. At the base, cedar wood, musk and amber round up the authentic character of p.33.

Xerjoff Group is an Italian perfume house, based in Turin, fully dedicated to luxury perfumes in their art form. The Xerjoff portfolio consists of an array of special collections containing the most exquisite, unique scents available in the world today, and has recently added an original concept to the portfolio: The XJ Sketchbook Collection.

“Sometimes the best ideas are those that get forgotten, only to be rediscovered.” Sergio Momo

During the many months of Italy’s lockdown amid the pandemic, Xerjoff’s founder and CEO, Sergio Momo, rediscovered ideas that had been forgotten in the pages of his Sketchbook - designs which were put to paper but never made to perfume – and took the opportunity to give them light, making way for new, intense emotions in their own dedicated collection.

P.33 from the Sketchbook Collection is available now on Xerjoff.com

The brand’s history began in 2007, in Turin, a result of sergio momo’s creative vision. i n a short period of time, he managed to conquer important markets, such as in russia and the m iddle east, steadily making his mark in the world of creative, luxury perfumery. a success that enabled Xerjoff to first open a mono-brand boutique in dubai, then London, Lisbon and monte carlo. i n italy, Xerjoff can be found at the flagship store in Turin and via manzoni 24 in m ilan.

Turin

Milan Harrods, London

an unforgettable olfactory pyramid

Aulentissima's perfumes want to tell stories, travel stories, life experiences, stories that from time to time are also inspired by literature, philosophy, figurative arts, stories with a solid and structured, methodical narrative plot, with olfactory registers meticulously studied. Each of the collections (the first from 2019, the second from May 2020 with the creation of a total of 32 fragrances) is the blank page of a new book, where you can write down thoughts and tune essences, where you can slide your hand quickly for an unpredictable ending and always open.

NEW COSMESY

Behind The scenes of manY successfuL Brands

from the complete implementation of the project to only a part of it. The synergy between the customer, the marketing and product offices, fragrances evaluators or Nose and technical laboratory, ensures an aesthetic and olfactory coherence for the final project which is proposed to the customer, and which is fully compliant with their brand identity, budget and agreed delivery times. This business model has led New Cosmesy to intensify personal relationships over the years with the protagonists of various industrial sectors with whom it has the pleasure of sharing new ideas and projects on a global scale.

EM: How does the selection of the fragrances take place?

INTERVIEW WITH FEDERICA CINQUE, CEO NEW COSMESY

EXPORT MAGAZINE: New Cosmesy is now a consolidated company, which has been active for over thirty years. What are the main assets on which your company is based?

FEDERICA CINQUE: New Cosmesy is a leading company specialized in development, production, and packaging in the perfumery and cosmetic industry. As a manufacturing company, New Cosmesy is able to offer sensory and functional proposals to the customers.

A fast and reliable partner with top quality production,

FC: We have a large olfactory library which allows us to select targeted fragrances according to the brand image and the markets for which it is mainly aimed. We also make fragrances to measure, and for their composition we use the most expert noses in the sector which, according to the desires of the client and their inspirations, propose fragrances suitable for each individual project.

EM: What is it that your clientele mainly appreciate?

FC: In the first place, the service. For us, customer satisfaction is a duty, a need. If the client is successful, we are part of their victory. This is why we have included in our team professional figures that can work alongside the client during all the steps of the product creation starting from the regulatory part to always be updated on the various legislations, country by country. Flexibility on production to meet the needs of the clientele, fast deliveries, attention to listening are

the fundamental points on which we have based our entrepreneurial philosophy. Precisely for this reason our production department consists of two areas: one dedicated to large quantities and one dedicated to smaller productions, so that the work can proceed without obstacles for both departments.

EM: For all this to come about, a few years ago, you took an important step, that of moving to your current head offices. Has it brought you benefits?

FC: Definitely, even though at first it was hard to opt for this major change, bringing together five different sites into a single facility rapidly showed its advantages, in terms of management of over 100 employees. And the immediate vision of needs both in production and in all the other departments of the company, from marketing to administration and commercial. Our progressive growth over the years has made it necessary to optimize our facility, at all levels.

EM: At the moment, is your clientele mainly Italian? Do you have plans to expand your clientele internationally?

FC: The weight of the turnover was determined by Italian clientele to which, today, there are increasingly international companies,. In recent years we have found an increased interest in New Cosmesy, In particular from the Middle East, to the extent that we have decided to open a new office in Dubai to be close to the local clientele.

EM: Artistic perfumery is occupying an increasingly larger space in classic perfumery. Is this true for your company as well? If so, what added values do you have to have to satisfy artistic perfumery?

FC: Artistic perfumery is our core business. To be up to the particular requirements of the brands of artistic

perfumery, we have to be in tune with the brand identity and pay the same attention to the processing thinking above all of the expectations of the consumer with regard to such an exclusive product. This is why out standards of quality are very high, with regular monitoring and training of the production personnel.

EM: Does this have an impact on costs?

FC: Our philosophy is to apply the standards of quality to each product we make. The costs, today, are now optimized by the company structure which we have developed over the years so that we can offer an excellent service both to artistic perfumery and to more traditional perfumery.

EM: You represent the second generation; your parents are still in the company; what have you absorbed from them and what do you think you have brought that is new?

FC: I joined the company when I was very young. From my father, in all these years, I have acquired all the knowledge that has allowed me to get here and the values on which the company is still based. We are still a family-run business and we want to share the objectives with all our collaborators. My personal contribution consists mainly of developing the right harmony with the brands in order to support them in their development and follow from close at hand the phases of production, making sure that the work is done correctly and as it should be done.

EM: Are trade fairs important occasions for you?

FC: We have learned a lot from the trade fairs, especially how to modulate our company on the requests of the clients. They are important moments of verification to know whether we are going in the right direction.

EM: Future projects?

FC: We are expanding the type of production of other product categories. At the moment we produce eau de toilette, eau de parfum, body mist, oils, attars, diffusers for the home, room sprays, candles etc. Now, on the request of the clientele who want to complete their offer with extension lines still in the perfumery sector, we are producing some skincare products, such as creams for the hands, soaps and shampoos. We are creating a dedicated business unit, with particular attention to the formulative aspect and the procurement of more suitable raw materials. This decision underlines once again our mission of being a company of services.

Claudia Stagno

CALÉ

in sTeP WiTh The Times and aLWaYs faiThfuL To The VaLues of arTisTic PerfumerY

INTERVIEW WITH

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Your company operates in various directions: distributor, brand owner and more. In more recent years, what have been the most significant variations, in both these areas?

SILVIO LEVI: In recent years, Calé has substantially modified its structure and activities, always keeping its interest and its competence in Artistic Perfumery at the centre. The corporate website has been renewed and proposes the new graphics of the logo. In addition to progressive optimization of the portfolio of brands with exclusive distribution for Italy, it has greatly boosted the sector of Direct Retail, with two Creed boutiques, one in Milan and the other in Rome, and three Creed corners in the Rinascente department stores in Milan, Rome and Florence, the opening of the Histoires de Parfums

flagship store in Milan and developing the proprietary multi-brand retail project which has taken the name of Fragrans in fabula and which now has two points of sale in Milan and a corner in the Rinascente department store in Via Tritone in Rome. Another sector developed has been that of e-commerce with the sites of Creed (https:// creedboutiqueitalia.com), Histoires de Parfums (https:// it.histoiresdeparfums.com/it) or that of the Fragrans in fabula stores (https://fragransinfabula.com/). In addition there is the brand of Calé Fragranze d’Autore which has expanded the range with the launch of the thirteenth fragrance, Archilibrium, dedicated to Organic Architecture (https://it.calefragranzedautore.com/). Other foreign markets have been opened including, more recently, Romania where the Calé Fragranze d’Autore fragrances were chosen for the launch of the new Range Rover Sport. In 2021, a limited edition of SottoSopra was released with an exclusive bronze cap made by the artist Marco Ceroni. The connection with other arts has continued, developing the musical part, again with the composer Philip Abussi, going int the world of multidimensional hexanaural sound and into the world of virtual reality in collaboration with Filmare Group in two projects related to the fragrances Roboris and Liberamente, which were proposed to professionals and the public at Esxence 2022 (https:// it.calefragranzedautore.com/page/headphones-on ) Particular commitment was then dedicated to the creation of the Research Centre essencional (https://www. essencional.com/en/) which is increasingly taking on a role of reference for the sector with its screening services of what is published on the Internet and which is filtered and evaluated to be put at the disposal of professionals and passionate lovers of perfumes every week, to which are added the articles and original interviews produced by the members of the Research Centre.

EM: Following important changes on the market, have your strategies changed as a consequence?

SL: It is certain that today we have to face situations that until a few years ago were not particular involved in our market. I am referring of course to investment funds and the multinationals which have carried out an intense

,

purchasing campaign, taking the control of many main independent benchmarks in our sector. A great deal is changing in the identity of the sector, the rhythms are becoming more frenetic and sudden changes are taking place in international distribution. Having said this, we are trying to stay as faithful as possible so that the marvellous added value of Artistic Perfumery can be increasingly recognized and appreciated, for its originality, uniqueness and artistry. This is why we are working more and more on communication, training, micro and macro events, the social networks, in-store experiential and, possibly, in e-commerce, to make more comprehensible and enjoyable the clear difference that there can be in the sensory and emotive perception of olfactory creations born to tell stories, express sensations and particular passions, which have not been “blunted” to be liked by many people, but which proudly flaunt their uniqueness and difference from the trends followed by the mass-tige sector. In our Fragrans in fabula boutiques, we have activated a series of activities for the public in which we propose thematic narrative paths, or Fabulae, with the help of fragrances of different brands to really allow people to understand how to enjoy the artistic message of certain compositions, whether they then choose to purchase them or not. The reactions of the public are really positive and the request to follow our Fabulae each month is a source of great pride for my staff and I.

EM: Italy is considered and is one of the leading countries in the sector of artistic perfumery. What are the main reasons for this?

SL: I think I am probably one of the people who has the deepest knowledge of this sector, Calé was founded in 1955 and I think that to all effects and purposes it is the distributor of artistic perfumery that can boast of the longest experience, not only in Italy, but in the world. Italy, as is often the case, has turned its potential limits into unique added value. We are one of the most recently constituted nations in Europe and we still have very much alive in our social fabric the particularities that today we define regional, but which date back to kingdoms, duchies and marquisates with influences from other nationals that have made them totally unique and original, full of contradictions, art, history and customs. In 1994, according to the then UNIPRO, today Cosmetica Italia, we had over 15,000 companies active in the perfumery sector. This is an enormous number with respect to the population, which no other country in the world has

ever even approached, I think. This is why we have had the great advantage of being able to choose from these 2.5% of points of sale, on average in city centres, owners of the walls and family-run businesses, with a high-spending and cosmopolitan basin of users, who overall have allowed us to operate with about 350 points of sale to create a distribution network that can receive and develop the offer of Artistic Perfumery, step by step. Today the companies active in the general Italian Beauty Business are practically less than one-third of those active in 1994, but the display surface areas is not any the less, on the contrary. Many small independent perfumeries have been absorbed by chains and more and more large groups of international retail are operating in the mass-tige sector. The points of sale that today have made the proposal of Artistic Perfumery a characterizing element, are today reduced to about 220-250 and represent less than 5% of the total of points of sale in business. This is why our distribution is considered niche, even though it has more retailers than in any other European or non-European country. In addition to all this, there is our inclination to appreciate beauty in all of its meanings which makes us, at least in art, attentive consumers ready to “sniff out” new trends at their beginnings and to be a marvellous laboratory of Research and Development which we could define “open source,” borrowing a term from Information Technology.

EM: Italian brands and international brands. Independent brands and brands that belong to some important multinational corporations? Has a balance been reached over time between these two worlds or is each one taking different paths?

SL: As I said, the scene is becoming very complicated. I am completely certain that Artistic Perfumery has very great possibilities of development at international level. To date it is far from having reached 2% of impact on the total Beauty turnover in the vast majority of continents and nations and the demand can only increase, at the same pace as the development of the distribution of mass and mass-tige perfumery, which will give new clients every day to Artistic Perfumery. The fact, however, that the latter has had for many years periods of growth and has shown excellent resilience, does not necessarily make it suitable for sudden development, entrusting distribution and promotion to specialized and organized structured of mass-tige, but in general, the recent acquisitions have

Creed Boutique, Rome Creed Boutique, Milan

to a large extent modified the marketing strategies of the brands, deeming them on average capable of competing on the global market and applying to them rules and strategies which would not be suitable for brands that until that time had tried to satisfy a demand which we can consider elitist and very attentive to the originality and quality. Unfortunately the very high risk is that the creativity of these proposals will undergo strong limits. Having said this, it is however also obvious how the number of new niche brands has grown, often supported by perfumers with a very noble pedigree, who want, after years of career dedicated to mass-tige, to return to be able to dedicate themselves to the real art of composition and creation of a perfumery that wants to be considered an Art in the same way as many other expressions of the human intellect such as music, painting, poetry, sculpture and photography. Quite a few of these brands are Italian brands which are allowing Italian perfumery to experience a second Renaissance with a great idea of fine creativity and courage. It will not be easy for these brands to reach the positioning and reputation of those that have attracted the interest of the big investors and multinational corporations, but I would say that there is a very lively and fair competition under way and Esxence is an obvious expression of this with the hundreds of exhibiting brands present. In conclusion, we are still far from having found a balance and mutual respect, to simplify, a sort of armistice between Esxence and Cosmoprof, which would be advantageous for both sectors, but I would say that very important steps have been taken in this direction and I hope that the various professionals involved and with whom I have had the occasion to interact over the past few years, are increasingly aware that synergies are far more profitable than competition. The cake is huge and is becoming bigger and bigger and would allow the survival and development of many figures that are different from one another but which in actual fact are interdependent on condition that each one protects their principles and characteristics.

EM: Will you be at Cannes with your proprietary brands, as usual?

SL: Yes, of course. We will be there with Calé Fragranze d’Autore at a new address, 12, Boulevard de la Croisette 12, together with other brands, mostly Italian. We will be presenting the new fragrance Archilibrium which aims to be a dedication to Organic Architecture of which Frank Lloyd Wright was a leader. Integration between anthropic buildings and Nature, in dialogue and mutual respect. Going into a wood and discovering that it holds a mansion where people live that does not have a negative impact on the nature surrounding it. It will also have its sonorous expression with an original piece by the

musician Philip Abussi. Cannes and the TFWA remain an extremely interesting rendezvous, where different souls of the beauty business coexist and measure up with one another and which for me and essencional.com is an observatory of considerable interest, even if it still does not have a specific section dedicated to Artistic Perfumery.

EM: What are the objectives you are setting yourself in this 2022 which seems to be showing positive signs of recovery?

SL: This year, which appears fairly complex and afflicted by quite a few enormous problems, will require flexibility, intelligence and skill to keep what it has been possible to obtain for the time being, i.e. to return to the parameters of 2019 and exceed them. We can probably expect a roller-coaster ride, due to the difficulties in finding raw materials, due to the different crises that are looming ahead , rising costs and energy problems. The need for the acquisitions that took place in the pandemic to have to recover and respect the plans of return on investment must not be underestimated. We will be seeing a strong tendency towards normalization, to not wanting to give support to “anomalous” distributions and the complex management that have so far guaranteed success for the boldest and most futuristic proposals in Artistic Perfumery and we risk creating great confusion in consumers concerning the identity of Artistic Perfumery. On the other hand, the opportunities are certainly there to see more and more new figures in the field. It is important that the process of creation of small and medium-sized specialized networks of distribution, to which Esxence has given a boost in the past 12 years at international level, does not stop and that new Asian and African markets can give opportunities to distribution and retail, specifically dedicated to Artistic Perfumery which, as I always take the occasion to repeat, is effectively the Research and Development of mass-tige which should do everything not to suffocate its creativity because in the medium-long term it will be precisely the mass-tige that will draw the greatest benefits.

Claudia Stagno

Fragrans in fabula, via Madonnina 17 Milan

Fragrans in fabula, corso Magenta 22 Milan

Histoires de Parfums, Milan

VOSKANIAN PARFUMS

author fragrances from armenia

The first collection was launched in 2019. Three fragrances (“beyond good and evil”, “the wanderer and his shadow”, “ecce homo”) in limited quantity were designed with artisanally made essential oils and filled in hand crafted obsidian bottles.

The brand Voskanian Parfums was founded in Armenia, in 2018 by Tsovak Voskanian who started the journey of perfumemaking in 2015 by distilling essential oils from various plants growing in Armenia and composing perfumes by using these oils

In 2021 four fragrances of main collection were launched at “Pitti Fragranze” exhibition in Florence: Pêche chypréeRealistic and juicy peach accord is dominating in the fragrance of “chypre” construction which starts with fresh citrus notes of bergamot, lemon, blood and bitter oranges enriched with orange flower absolute. Heart notes of geranium, rose, clary sage and tabac add body and complexity to a fragrance. The base notes of cedarwood, patchouli, ambra and oakmoss gives

rich elegantness which continues until drydown. Lonicera de nuit - Very true and realistic honeysuckle scent enriched with jasmin absolute, harmonized with watery muguet and rounded with elegant musks contains also green and woody facets giving impression of honeysuckle bush at night after the rain. Patchouli et mémoires - patchouli accord based on rare and expensive patchouli extracts is very noble, refined and smooth, without intense earthy and heavy sesquiterpene facets. It is combined with musky, ambery, spicy and mossy notes evoking some vintage impressions. Iris boisé - A rich and elegand mono-iris fragrance composed with notes of carrot seeds, violet and continued with woody-ambery and leathery accord composed from vetiver, cedarwood, patchouli musk and ambra.

The new fragrance “Soir Vert” was launched at Pitti Fragranze exhibition on september 2022 in Florence.

Soir Vert - This extravagant and high-spirited fragrance is based on contrast. The juicy sweetness of melons and the freshness of grapefruit on the one hand, and the green dry notes of rhubarb on the other hand synchronistically create a unique aura typical of Yerevan summer evenings. Some floral touches in the hearth and ambergris-woody notes in the base add a mysterious tonality and harmony to the whole.

CREATED BY DAWID ANIOLDOCTOR SCENT

The story of Omnia Profumi coincides with the personal story of its founder. The personality of Fabrizio Tagliacarne is multi-faceted with some common denominators: the passion that is behind any venture he is ready to face, as well as the spirit of a quest, first of all introspective and then operative, that never abandons him. His impetuous character, typical of the sign of Leo, is the expression of the joie de vivre in every second of his day, from the time spent riding a motorbike or doing sport in the open air to the time dedicated to cultivating what he loves most: jewellery and perfumes. His expertise in the field of jewels and gemmology, led him, in 2009, towards a new expressive path in an area that he had followed and loved for some time: that of perfumes.

This was the birth of the Jewelry Collection, inspired by fragments of Fabrizio’s life, where every fragrance is associated with a stone or a metal. It is an instinctive operation, which combines the language of jewels with that of fragrance. With continuous studies and dedication, Fabrizio becomes a ‘nose’ and creator of perfumes, and is thrilled to give new forms to his sensations. This is the birth of the “Stones” Collection, followed by “Metals” and “White” Stones.

OMNIA

PROFUMI

aLWaYs on The moVe

T he sTorY con T inues….

Omnia celebrates its tenth birthday and launches the “Relazioni Olfattive” Collection, first in Dubai, then in Milan and Cannes. The times are also ripe for launching a collection with his own name: “Fabrizio Tagliacarne Perfumes”.

The first fragrance is called “ICIO”, the nickname that his beloved grandfather gave to him when he was small.

The deepest affective memories of his childhood smell of tobacco, vetiver and wood. And they are imprisoned in an elegant and refined packaging.

Each fragrance crated by Fabrizio tells a story. Linked to a memory or a sensation. Fabrizio reveals himself with is creations, more than with words, as though he was showing a sort of embarrassment in talking about himself. Yet he is very attentive to giving each fragrance a strong personality and dressing it in the finest dress especially created for it.

from one success

To anoT her

The unstoppable olfactory journey sees the birth of 7 fragrances in the “Stones” Collection: Ambra, Cristallo, Diamante, Madera, Opale, Opalerosa and Opaledifuoco.

The “White Stones” Collection, the symbol of refinement, is made up of Diaman, White Madera and White Ambra.

The “Metals” Collection identifies the capacity to transform materials that apparently cannot be transformed, thanks to the expert hands of a craftsman: in the same way, the fragrances are crafted with the same art that a goldsmith uses to create a piece of jewellery, mixing the most precious and natural essences to give rise to unique fragrances.

They are: Oro, Platino, Bronzo e Ferro. The “Vanilla” Collection was created to exalt an essential ingredient in the creations of Omnia Profumi, vanilla.

2022: an im PorTan T Y ear

The new project of an ITALIAN LUXURY BRAND comes into being, where Fabrizio dwells on telling the story of Italian traditions, the bond between generations, the creative experience that helps him balance passion and the creation of his variegated projects. An acquired maturity that gives him a great sense of inner satisfaction.

ABOUT FABRiZiO TAGliACARNE

RAME

Here is RAME (COPPER), the fifth fragrance in the “Metals” Collection. Unexpected notes for a gourmand fragrance that takes us by surprise due to the prevalence of a scent of salted caramel.

It is an invitation to pleasure, to well-being, to joy and enthusiasm, dedicated to people of all genders and ages.

The name comes from the colour of copper which, like caramel, has reddish-brown tones.

Let’s be transported by the inebriation of the top notes, extract of myrtle and Sicilian citrus, followed by the heart notes of salted caramel, cocoa and sugar, to end with the base notes of amber, sandalwood and white musk.

ZOE , THE NEW FRAGRANCE BY FABRIZIO TAGLIACARNE

Fabrizio Tagliacarne Perfumes presented the new fragrance, Zoe, at Pitti Fragranze in Florence in September 2022 with a unique event: #metaverosensoriale. On each day of the show, visitors were able to enjoy a 100% immersive experience through an Oculus that took them on the 3D olfactory journey, tailor-made for the launch of Zoe.

Thanks to this sensory journey, visitors can appreciate the fragrance by engaging not only with the sense of smell, but grasping the real essence of the product. With the eau de parfum Zoe, described as an oriental-garage fragrance, Fabrizio continues the journey of his personal collection. Named after Fabrizio’s first and subsequent Harley Davidsons, the fragrance is dedicated to this world of motorbikes. The wanderlust and the freedom experienced on a journey is one of the most beautiful sensations that can be experienced. This fragrance aims to accompany the wearer on a constant mental and emotional journey, an escape from everyday life by getting in touch with their emotions. The nutmeg in the top notes gives verve and joviality combined with saffron that makes the fragrance precious and elegant. The bergamot in the body makes it a little “allappant” and therein lies its beauty, because it creates a strong and unbreakable bonding sensation. It closes with notes of oud that are strongly perceived right from the start in an intrusive way, which together with Sandalwood, Amber and Patchouli make it powerful and ‘roaring’ like a motorbike.

Like his other fragrances, Zoe is genderless and recommended for everyone, even for those who are not motorbike fans but love to dream and travel with their thoughts: it is the perfect fragrance.

The very recent launch presented at a unique event: #metaversosensoriale

PiTTi fragranze

OF THE SENSES

This year’s show was conceived as an amplified experience of the senses, according to Agostino Poletto, General Manager of Pitti Immagine, especially after the difficult Covid period, when the senses (in particular of taste and smell) of patients were severely affected.

Pitti Fragranze welcomed 160 brands this year, both established houses and new names, more of 70% of which were from abroad. Equally international were the visitors, with 1250 trade professionals from 50 different countries in the world, a growth of 13% compared to September 2021.

The number of foreign professionals almost reached a total of 300, with France at the top of the ranking, followed by pain, Germany, Russia, Switzerland, the UK, Ukraine, Lithuania Turkey, Poland, Romania, the Netherlands, Sweden China and the United States.

There was also an increase in the number of buyers from Italy, who recorded +18%.

More than 200 journalists, influencers and media professionals also attended this year’s event.

The Stazione Leopolda in Florence was once again the venue for Pitti Fragranze from 16 to 18 September, bringing together the top names of the sector and the most prestigious noses. Thanks to its approach of research and exclusivity, Fragranze has become a real landmark for the market and for fragrance enthusiasts, and for all the latest trends in skincare and well-being.

Highlights

The special guest at Pitti Fragranze was Alessandro Gualtieri, aka The Nose, who created especially for the event the Alchemical Wall, an interactive participatory experience which attracted a long queue!

Mane was again present, this year with a focus on ‘The Rose: Reinventing Iconics,” a fascinating journey through the rediscovery of the rose, the undisputed queen of perfumery history.

Sense the Senses and Smelling to Survive

This talk, coordinated by journalist, writer and fragrance enthusiast Giovanna Zucconi, was on the five senses, the theme of this year’s event. Giovanna Zucconi also presented the Book Talk on ‘Smelling to Survive. The amazing world of our sense of smell’ by Swedish neurologist Bill Hansson. One exhibitor event that deserves a mention was the presentation of the new fragrance by Laura Bosetti Tonatto, “Sergio” dedicated to the Madrid flamenco and classical ballet dancer Sergio Bernal, who delighted the audience with an exhibition of his vibrant dancing.

Trésors de l’Osmothèque

The first historical archive of perfumes told the story of its mission and its heritage, focusing on the rose and the great fragrances in which it has played a leading role.

SPRING

Spring, the area dedicated to a selection of new brands, fragrance lines presenting themselves for their first rendezvous with the international public and new names of the market, included Botanicae Expressions, Extra Virgo, Petite Amie Skincare, Tobba Parfums and Voskanian Parfums.

AgATHO PARFUM

mYThoLogY and The mediTerranean

Founded in Naples, Agatho Parfum is named after the master perfumer who composed unguents and fragrances for the Roman aristocracy. This project rediscovers and celebrates the excellence of those unguents and gives a contemporary touch to the olfactory overture through the use of natural materials of the highest quality. The bottles are sealed into handmade bottles of porcelain made with the same techniques as those handed down since 1740 by the Real Fabbrica of Capodimonte, founded by the philanthropic King Carlos III of Bourbon, in whose reign the excavations of Pompeii began. These fragrances celebrate elegance, culture and luxury, expressing a demanding and refined personality.

essence where Bergamot and Juniper berries lies on a carpet of Incense, fading into Oriental Woods. Fauno is a provocative essence that celebrates the wild and complex nature of the Faun. Seductive opening notes of cedar, galbanum, grapefruit and nashi pear precede an elegant atmosphere of pimento and tuberose and sensual tobacco leaves releasing the powerful notes of incense and magnolia. Ambergris and cedar wood evoke the lustful labyrinth of ancient Pompeii. 195 BC marked the return to a new order after the restrictions of the Lex Oppia. The fragrance of the same name celebrates this renewed joie de vivre, with Fig leaves, Bergamot and Pomegranate. Fresh Jasmine and Cardamom release the desire for seduction while Patchouli, Cedar wood, Incense, Oud and Styrax sparkle and attract. Sublime accords in Incense and Black Tea give luxury to this creation. Adone, or Adonis, the object of Aphrodite’s unconditional love: seductive chords capture the elegant simplicity of grapefruit and rosewood. Its floral and enveloping notes are rooted in myth. Releasing the freshness of wisteria, jasmine, geranium, damask rose and white lily, this essence interprets and expresses the beautiful and damned Adonis, whose life was cut short, like a flower in full bloom. Sileno evokes Silenus, the sage who was contemptuous of earthly goods and considered a seer who revealed the future only if forced to. The gardens and citrus groves of Pompeii were his haven, and are reflected in the fragrance with citrus notes and the oriental notes of his ancient travels, together with Sichuan pepper and ylang ylang in a nostalgic marine accord. The base notes reveal driftwoods covered with algae but also precious woods and cedar wood for a persistent fragrance.

Rossopompeiano is inspired by the colour, obtained from the mineral cinnabar, that made the frescoes of Pompeii dwellings famous. Its Mediterranean freshness is accompanied by citrus notes ushering in the sensuality of damask rose, sublimating in sinuous oriental echoes. Castiamanti, the expression of the wealth of Pompeii, has fleeting top notes of Myrtle which encounters precious Saffron, luxuriant notes of Honey and a Jasmine night breeze. The mythological garden of Hercules is the inspiration of Giardinodiercole, a refined and vigorous

Celebrating Pompeii and ancient mythology, bygone olfactory notes return with a contemporary touch

MEET 650 EXHIBITORS FROM 55 COUNTRIES AT

beautyistanbul 2022

BEAUTYISTANBUL 2022 the 3rd International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair, Home Care, Private Label, Packaging and Ingredients will be held on 13-15 October 2022 at Istanbul Lutfi Kirdar and Istanbul Congress Center in Taksim-Istanbul-Turkey. The 2022 edition is expanding by 2 NEW HALLS, reaching 650 exhibitors from 55 countries in just the 3rd year and joining the biggest cosmetics exhibitions worldwide. Exhibitors include manufacturers, brands, private label and contract manufacturers, suppliers and more in the cosmetics, beauty and hygiene industry. In addition to 300 Turkish exhibitors, Confirmed National Participations are Italy (110 Exhibitors with ITA), Brazil, South Africa,

Poland, South Korea, Ukraine, Morocco, Pakistan and a total of 300 International Exhibitors. 3rd edition features 10.000+ international trade visitors from 160+ countries including buyers, importers, distributors, wholesalers, cosmetics chain stores, retailers, pharmacy chains, supermarkets, online stores, brands and manufacturers, making BEAUTYISTANBUL the most international event in the cosmetics industry.

You are invited to visit BEAUTYISTANBUL 2022 to find new products and meet new companies from all around the world.

Wishing to see you at the 3rd BEAUTYISTANBUL Exhibition on 13-15 October 2022 at Istanbul Congress Center and Lutfi Kirdar in Taksim-Istanbul-Turkey.

3 Senses GmbH Senefelder Strasse 1/T4 D-63110 Rodgau www.3senses.eu tran@3senses.eu

hugh Parsons - Panama Profumart s.r.l. Via A. Costa, 2 I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 info@profumitalia.net www.profumitalia.it

Acampora Profumi Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l.

Via G. Filangieri, 72 I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 www.brunoacampora.com

Alyson Oldoini Parfums Luciano Oldoini s.r.l. V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano www.alysonoldoiniparfums.com

Ancorotti Cosmetics Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l. Via del Commercio, 1 I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 fax +39/0373-876811

Antiqua Firenze IO•KO Enzo Galardi Via Ilio Barontini 22I-50018 Scandicci (FI) elisa.atelierbois.gmail.com www.bois1920.it

Arômélia Arômélia 21, Boulevard Haussmann F-75009 Paris tel. +33 (0) 156036603 contact.aromelia@orange.fr

Ars Mirabile - CBN

Collistar Collistar s.p.a. Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 fax +39-02/6775454

Confalonieri Matite Confalonieri Matite s.r.l. I-23020 Area Industriale - Gordona (SO) tel. +39/0343-42011 fax +39/0343 42000 www.confaloniericosmetica.com confaloniericosmetica.com

Costume National Beauty San s.p.a.

Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 www.beautysan.net

Coverderm Covermark Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 fax +39-02/89200371

L’Erbolario

L’Erbolario s.p.a.

V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 fax +39/0371-491411

www.erbolario.com

Locherber Cosval s.p.a.

V.le delle Industrie 10/5 I-20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 - fax +39/02 935 81 022 www.cosvality.com

Lubin Lubin 3, rue du Roule F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 fax +33-1/45021316

Lumson Belotti Lumson S.p.A. Via Tesino, 62-64 I-26010 Capergnanica (CR) tel. +39/0373-2331 fax +39-0373-233355 www.lumson.com lumson@lumson.com

diego dalla palma

diego dalla palma RVB Lab Cosmetica s.r.l.

Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 fax +39-0542/670911

Dsquared2 - Missoni Moschino - Naj Oleari Versace Euroitalia s.r.l.

Via G. Galilei, 1 I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. +39-02/95916.1 fax +39-02/95916500

Enrico G I Fragrances Enrico Gi Fragrances

M:PLuS Cosmetics M:PLUS Cosmetics Via Unità d’Italia, 9/11 I-20065 Inzago (MI) www.mascaraplus.com info@mascaraplus.com

The Merchant of Venice

Furla - Police - Replay - Zippo

Manila Grace - Blauer uSA Pino Silvestre - Monotheme I Profumi di d’Annunzio

Mavive S.p.A. Via Altinia, 298/B I-30173 Venezia (Dese) tel. +39-041/5417771 fax +39-041/5417798

MI-RE MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers F-75018 Paris tel. +33/6-65299995 www.mirecosmetics.com etremosa@mi-in.kr

I-Care - Longevity

M Masterpiece S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. Via della Liberazione, 56 I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 fax +39-02/98280975

Fragrance division: Arrogance - GMV Valentina by Guido Crepax Cosmetic division: Pikenz

The First s.p.a. Via Fieno, 8 I-20123 Milano tel. +39-02/661381 fax +39-02/66138519

Astra Giufra S.r.l. Via Veneto, 152 I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. +39-075.8987455 fax +39-075.8987691

Artdeco Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. +49/8131-390100 fax +49/8131 390129

Aubade - Montana Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 fax +33-1/42650074

Alain Delon Jaguar - Lalique Nikki Beach Parfums Grès ultrasun

Amarena Bella Oggi

Art & Fragrance SA Bühlstrasse 1 CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Direct +41-43/4994532 Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 www.art-fragrance.com

Eurostyle s.p.a. I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 fax +39-081/3158162 www.amarenamakeup.com info@amarenamakeup.com

Exclusive division:

Braccialini - Byblos - Fila - Gandini

Genny - Luciano Soprani

Transvital Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport Lola - Looney Tunes Renato Balestra - Rockford

Via della Tecnica, 32 I-37066 Sommacampagna (VR) tel. +39/045-8960480 fax +39/045-8960482 www.enricogifragrances.com info@enricogifragrances.com

Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. +39-051/6649238 fax +39-051/6649248

Franck Olivier Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 fax +33-1/42210888

Giorgio Jäneke Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l. I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. fax +39-0362/911100

Grioni-Myc Group Grioni-Myc Group Via Cavour, 2 c/o COMONEXT Innovation Hub www.grionipackaging.com

Gritti Venetia Gritti Fragrances Via della Torretta, 52 I-40012 Calderara di Reno (BO) tel. +39-051-828087 export@grittifragrances.com

Guudcure Pollution Free HSA GROUP S.p.A. Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) tel. +39/0332-476554 fax +39/03332-850307 hsa@hsacosmetics.com www.hsacosmetics.com

Molinard

Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 fax +334-89123068 export@molinard.com www.molinard.com

Nouba Nouba s.r.l.

Via Bastia 5 - I-20139 Milano tel. +39/02-35954290 www.nouba.it - info@nouba.it

Omnia Profumi Omnia Profumi s.r.l. I-27100 Pavia

Via P. Diacono, 6 tel. +39/382-1959222 www.omniaprofumi.com info@omniaprofumi.com

Paglieri Paglieri s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663

Parfums Pergolèse Paris Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com

Payot Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 contact@payot.fr - www.payot.com

Pupa Miss Milkie Micy’s Company s.p.a. Via De Gasperi, 22 I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 - fax +39-039/89205859

Aquolina - Baldinini Paglieri 1876

Pink Sugar Selectiva s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663

Balmain Parfums - Celine

Lanvin - Paul Smith - Roxi

Van Cleef & Arpels

Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc

Battistoni - Joseph Abboud

Maserati - Replay Rocco Barocco

Interparfums 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées F-75008 Paris tel. +33/1-53770000 fax +33/1-53763626

Italart Via I Maggio 5/A I-43022 Basilicanova (PR) tel. +39/0521-681990 fax +39/0521-681993

B.kolor B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a. Via Canonica, 79/A - Loc. Geromina I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. +39/0363-590011 fax +39/0363-590212

info@bkolormakeup.com

www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com

Cale’ CALE’ s.r.l.

Via S. Maria Podone, 5 I-20123 Milano tel. +39/02-76002494 fax +39/02-76009407 ww.cale.it - s.levi@cale.it

Charriol - Morgan

Salvador Dalì

Cofinluxe

6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827

Bellagio - henry Cotton’s Ducati - Gattinoni - Juventus Mcs - Monello Mascalzone Ny League Diamond International s.r.l. Via Foce Cesano,4/9 I-60019 Senigalla (AN) tel. +39/071-6610226 fax +39/071-6611104 info@diamondint.it www.difragrances.com

Inika Organic Inika Organic 813 Springvale Road, - Mulgrave VIC - Australia 3170 tel. + 61 3 8544 80000 hello@inika.com.au

Intertrade Europe HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 - I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 fax +39-049/762 5177

Jean Couturier

Léonard

VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier - F-75008 Paris tel. +33-1/58183970 fax +33-1/40060210

kiko Milano Cosmetics s.r.l. Via Depretis, 6/9 I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 fax +39-035/3693612

La Closerie des Parfums Groupe Panther – La Closerie des Parfums ZI Gradignan Bersol 11 Avenue de la Madeleine F-33173 Gradignan cedex (France) tel +33/05.56.75.79.04 fax +33/05.56.75.53.36 valerie.madrid@lacloseriedesparfums.com www.lacloseriedesparfums.com

Layla Layla Cosmetics s.r.l. Via dei Pestagalli, 21 I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 - fax +39-02/5061160

qualimed - Desìo Qualimed - Desìo Viale dell’Unione Europea 8 I-21052 Gallarate 21013 (VA) tel. +39/00331-1629910 fax +39/0331-1838472 info@qualimed.it - www.qualimed.it

Rancé Rancé & C. s.r.l.

Via Lombardini, 10 I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855fax +39-02/89401058

Sandalia Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l. I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 www.acquadisardegna.it info@officinaprofumeriasarda

Salvatore Ferragamo ungaro

Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a. Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 - fax +39-055/3360734

Teatro Fragranze uniche Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l.

Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it

Xerjoff

Xerjoff Group s.p.a. Via G. Tenivelli, 29 10024 Moncalieri (TO)

yuzen Forma Italiana s.p.a.

Via Cascina Nuova, 1 Frazione Villamaggiore I - 20084 Lacchiarella Tel. +39/02-9007713 info@formaitaliana.it

Dunlop - Engelsrufer

Jette - kaviar Gauche Leonardo Essenza Lufthansa Scotch & Soda