··· W I N E N OT E S
The Role of the
SOMMELIER By AJ Linn
What is the reaction of most restaurant customers on being offered the wine list? Ordering the cheapest is a sign of a skinflint, and – unless the customer has a serious knowledge of, and interest in, wine generally – what often resembles a leather-bound version of the Old Testament becomes a challenge that the dining-out experience should not feature. We go to a restaurant to enjoy ourselves and, while the menu itself may present some minor challenges, the maitre d’ is there to answer every query with confidence. Is the job of a sommelier not the same? There is an old joke that those who have limited experience invariably order the second least expensive wine on the list. But while everyone knows what a lettuce heart or a veal cutlet is, terms like “barrel-aged” and “matured on lees” can be unfamiliar. In the majority of cases we settle for ordering a wine that we know and, just to seal the decision, the second least expensive will do nicely. The moment arrives when the wine waiter or sommelier will show us the bottle of wine and then take it away to be opened. It’s odd that we need to see it, since we know what we have ordered, but we merely nod and say thank you. A small amount is poured and the chosen “taster”, with only a vague idea of what reaction is expected, merely remarks “That’s fine” and the play-acting continues. Negative scenarios may include remarks about the temperature of the wine or, disaster, it smells “corked”. If the wine does indeed have an unmistakable bottle taint the mere drawing of the cork will have released it without the need for tasting. I have drunk more bottles of wine over many years than most people and cannot remember encountering a wine that was genuinely corked, although there must have been a few. In fact, when I hear someone in a restaurant tell the server that the wine is corked, my suspicions are aroused. What the customer generally means is that the wine is not to his liking, or that the taste of a mature garnacha is so different from that of a cabernet sauvignon that it appears strange enough to be unpleasant. But never forget the golden rule: we are not asked to taste the wine to see if we like it. It is assumed we have chosen a wine we believe we will enjoy, and this is certainly not the time or place to experiment by requesting a wine we want to try as if we were at a tasting session. Most restaurants have a budget for perfectly good wine that has been rejected unjustifiably by “experts”. Sommeliers are frequently driven mad by inconsiderate customers. Quite simply, the majority are not sure what they are there for. The most common misconception is for them to pour the wine, as if the waiters cannot do that. Although it varies from country to country, the generally-accepted
role of the sommelier, or “somm” as they are annoyingly referred to in the States, is advisory. They are not order-takers, even though they are often treated as if they were. They are ready with the wine list once the food has been ordered, and a considerate diner, even one with a good knowledge of wine, should ask their advice. There are often wines that have arrived so recently they are not yet on the list, and these can be the most interesting items. The sommelier will probably have ordered them and knows everything about them. To miss out on the resulting recommendation is a loss for everyone. And we should not be embarrassed asking about the price. It is quite acceptable to enquire after “a red wine from one of Spain’s secondary regions” (ergo, not Rioja or Ribera del Duero, but one from the other 59) “that will go with the fish we have ordered and will not break the bank”. Never forget that ideally the sommelier will taste the wine before serving it to be sure it is in perfect condition. He knows more than we do so let him get on with it. He will spot a bad bottle before we do. Tipping? It is not customary to tip the sommelier individually unless he has done something over and above the normal requirements of the job, and in any case his greatest satisfaction is waving goodbye to a customer who has made his job worthwhile.
SOLLO – RESERVA DEL HIGUERÓN (BENALMÁDENA) At first glance the idea of eating in a restaurant that has always been associated with one particular dish or dishes can be off-putting. When chef Diego Gallegos started Sollo, the speciality was locally-produced caviar from Río Frío, and the rest of the menu was constructed around freshwater fish, notably sturgeon and trout. Not a great deal has changed except that there is a Michelin star and many other noteworthy awards, making it one of the most highly-recommended eateries in the area. The open-plan kitchen and friendly service are positive elements that may compensate for smallish portion sizes and a lack of ambience, but when I was there recently to appreciate the additional luxury of a superb Ribera del Duero wine, Pintea, made by Mexicans in Ribera del Duero, everything was perfect. The tasting menu is priced at €130 and the wine list is one of the best, although with on-the-high-side prices (www.sollo.es).
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