Professional Beauty SA July/Aug

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

incorporating

PIONEERING A NEW GENERATION OF SKINCARE

In this issue...

July/August 2020 | probeauty.co.za

Chemical peeling Time management tips Tertiary education for beauty

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In this issue...

Regulars

Spa Focus

Aesthetic Medicine

6 Industry news

22 Face yoga in your spa

41 The path to excellence

Local and international news

40 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

Exercising the facial muscles

24 The importance of staff wellbeing

43 The holistic factor

A doctor’s perspective

Nails

45 In the market

Features

49 NailFile

Business

28 Close study

11 Ask the Experts

33 Growing the businesses of tomorrow

All the latest launches

All your questions answered

12 How to stay compliant in the global cosmetics market

EU regulations

Coping with the pandemic

Perfecting your aesthetics practice

Tertiary education for the beauty industry

Phytomedicine and natural plants

14 Top 12 time-management tips

34 Chemical peeling tips for the professional

Making the most of your time

16 Culture club

Culture in the workplace

17 A dream team?

Bonding with your staff

Issue 34

How to perform treatments safely

35 The appeal of peels

Latest peeling formulations

38 How to nail your waxing service

Tips for waxing

39 Waxing lyrical

What products to use

44 On hand

Beauty devices

20 online @ probeauty.co.za

Welcome

4

A

s our lead news story points out, it’s is very difficult to try and accurately quantify the devastating effect that the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdown has had on the South African beauty industry, when there are so many variables to take into account. Firstly, not all beauty salons and spas in the formal sector are registered with the National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty & Skincare Industry (HCSBC), despite being mandated by government to do so. Furthermore, there is an entire informal sector operating in the industry, which does not fall within the Council’s purview. And, not all registered salons and spas are members of the Employers Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty (EOHCB).

However, from conversations with salon owners, spa operators and beauty product distributors, it’s clear that the pandemic has unfortunately resulted in many casualties, with several salons and spas forced to close down and no hope of ever opening again. But in amongst these cases are more hopeful reports of salons and day spas doing fair (even good in some cases) business, despite having to operate with severe post lockdown challenges.

These include reduced numbers of staff and having to cut down on the number of clients per day to accommodate stringent hygiene and sanitation protocols and social distancing regulations. There is also the issue of anxiety – with the COVID-19 infection rate really starting to spike in July, clients may be anxious about entering the salon environment. It’s important to note that these conditions are probably also traumatic for staff to deal with. But, the important thing is that the industry has reopened, and every week that goes by means that we are a little closer to a vaccine that will defeat this horrific virus. In the meantime, this resilient industry will rebuild itself, one day at a time.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

incorporating

PIONEERING A NEW GENERATION OF SKINCARE

Publisher Mark Moloney

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mark@probeauty.co.za

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

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Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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Art Director Alois Sajanga

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Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

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Operations Executive Obey Dube 011 781 5970

obey@probeauty.co.za

Cape Town Sales Executive Carla Hamman 084 894 6172 carla@probeauty.co.za In this issue...

July/August 2020 | probeauty.co.za

Chemical peeling Time management tips Tertiary education for beauty

Cover source: QMS Medicosmetics Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

Sales Executive Ruby Manning

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Accountant Letitia Rabie

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The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com and www.pixabay.com

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6 News

News Industry reels from economic effects of pandemic As at the end of July 2020, approximately 200 registered beauty establishments had confirmed to the National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty & Skincare Industry (HCBSBC) that they have closed as a result of the COVID-19 national lockdown, which saw salons and spas prohibited from operating for nearly three months.

Frik Bekker, HCBSBC financial manager and acting CEO, points out that this is only a fraction of registered establishments.

“However,” he continues, “with the information we are receiving, as well as the trends with the payment of contributions, we expect to see a drop in registered establishments of between 30% and 40% in the industry. This cannot be substantiated at the moment but we feel this is a relatively accurate estimate.

“The Council is still receiving feedback from the industry on whether an establishment has closed due to COVID-19, is still closed due to current lockdown regulations, or is only intending on opening in the new year. Not all establishments have informed us of such and this is on an increase on a daily basis.”

There are no comprehensive statistics for the total number of beauty establishments in South Africa because not all beauty establishments in the formal sector are registered with the HCBSBC, even though they are mandated by Government to do so. There are also beauty establishments operating in the informal sector that do not fall within the HCBSBC’s purview.

Job losses Elna Hagen, president of SAAHSP – the Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry, comments: “Since the inception of online @ probeauty.co.za

COVID-19 and the lockdown, we realised that the industry faced imminent retrenchments, as well as business closures, which in turn unfortunately caused irreversible damage as far as jobs are concerned and led to extreme poverty.

“As an organisation, SAAHSP is also seeing the enormous additional financial strains on businesses as they follow the necessary COVID-19 protocols in a high-risk professional environment during the quiet winter months.

“At this stage it seems like some salons and spas have decided to stay closed for the time being rather than not being able to operate at a 100% capacity.”

Franchises The two largest beauty salon franchises in South Africa, Sorbet and Imbalie Beauty, each comprise of hundreds of establishments.

Says Linda Sinclair, CEO of the Sorbet Group: “We have closed four stores. The store lease for one of these salons came to an end and the shopping centre is not viable to continue trading as they are going to be doing massive renovations, while the other three stores were

marginal before COVID-19.”

CEO of the Imbalie Beauty Group (Perfect10, DreamNails and Placecol Skin Centres), Esna Colyn, confirms that while the majority of Imbalie salons have reopened, a few doors are yet to open.

“We are working hard to assist our salons wherever possible, as some of them are trying to negotiate more favourable leases with their landlords,” continues Colyn. “It’s vital to make our businesses bulletproof for the future, and part of this is sustainable leases. In some instances, we have been able to consolidate two franchises within the same mall, into one salon.

“Furthermore, Imbalie Beauty is in the process of launching a new division and as such, is repositioning some of its franchisees within this exciting new venture.

“We need to remain positive and remember that we are only a month out of lockdown and in the middle of winter, so the market needs time to pick up. It’s now more important than ever before for the beauty industry to continue to consolidate, support and unite together,” states Colyn.

Environ donates over R1m in products to healthcare workers

South African skincare brand, Environ, has donated over R1 million worth of product to doctors and nurses at six hospitals in Cape Town and KwaZulu-Natal.

Says Environ’s group chairman, director and CEO, Val Cartens: “Environ recognises the immense daily assault on the skin as a result of the masks that the doctors and nurses are wearing. By gifting them skincare boosters, which help to soothe and restore skin sensitised by long hours of

wearing a mask, we wanted to show support and care, as well as lift morale for healthcare workers who are making daily sacrifices.”

Environ has donated to doctors and nurses working at the Hospital of Hope, a special COVID-19 field hospital established at the Cape Town International Convention Centre, as well as to doctors and nurses at various hospitals in the Western Cape and KwaZulu-Natal.

The donations were recently handed over by Dr Des Fernandes,

Environ’s founder and scientific director, and Carstens (his sister), at the Hospital of Hope.

Each donation includes Environ’s popular immuneboosting serum, Colostrum Gel, which helps to protect sensitive skin from external and internal stressors, and Original Mild Night moisturising cream, to replenish skin with the vitamin A, antioxidants and essential nutrients that it needs to look healthy and stay resilient.

Dermatologists link skin issues to COVID-19 Coronavirus patients could suffer from one of five common skincare issues, ranging from pustules and blisters, to flat or raised red bumps, according to a study by Spanish researchers.

Professional Beauty UK reports that the study was published in the British Journal of Dermatology and identified the following five common skin manifestations in those suffering with COVID-19: acral areas of erythema-oedema or pustules (pseudo-chilblain); vesicular eruptions; urticarial lesions; other maculopapules; and livedo or necrosis.

The Spanish Academy of Dermatology conducted the study in which four dermatologists

reviewed images of unexplained skin eruptions in 120 patients with suspected or confirmed COVID-19, and then a consensus was reached.

These patterns were then applied to the rest of the images, consisting of 375 patients, and further refined into five broader conditions, by which nearly all patients could be classified According to the study, just under a fifth (19%) of cases presented with pseudo-chilblain symptoms, commonly found on the hands and feet, and were associated with younger patients, lasting for a mean of 12.7 days. Just under a third (32%) suffered from pain and 30% itching.

“Other vesicular eruptions (i.e.

small blisters) were seen in 9% of those studied, which were associated with middle-aged patients and lasting for a mean of 10.4 days. Itching was a common symptom with more than half (68%) of patients, the report found.

Urticarial lesions – commonly interpreted as nettle rash or wheals, which show as pink or white raised areas of skin – were present in 19% of patients, and other maculopapules (small, flat and raised red bumps, usually discovered around hair follicles) in just under half (47%), which generally lasted for a shorter period of time – 6.8 mean days for urticarial and 8.6 for maculopapular.

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

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News

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SA gears up for World Wellness Weekend

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the organisers of World Wellness Weekend (WWW), which takes place on 19 and 20 September 2020, have decided to go digital and host a virtual event.

Founded by Jean-Guy de Gabriac of Tip Touch International, World Wellness Weekend is set to be celebrated in over 100 countries around the globe. It aims to inspire and empower people to make healthier choices and enjoy an active lifestyle with family and friends. Participating properties will host free and fun wellness activities during the event.

Says WWW South Africa ambassador and spa professional,

Taryn Lilley: “We will be sharing a series of free Wellness Workshops and providing exercise, nutritional and healthcare tips over the duration of WWW. One of the confirmed live sessions will be an exercise workout called, ‘Bootcamp with a Cause’, hosted

by Foreverstrong Transformation Studio. This fun-filled session will be a metabolic burn workout and guaranteed to get the blood pumping. It will cater for all fitness levels and all ages, so we encourage the whole family to all get involved.

“Ellerman House Spa will host a session, taking us on a journey of breath work and mindfulness.

They will focus on yogic breathing (Nadi Shodhana Pranayama) and some lymph drainage to strengthen the immune system and work on increasing lung capacity.

“Also included in the line-up will be a nutritionist sharing some healthy eating tips and easy non-guilty snack ideas. We have some exciting surprises in store for children as well, so we encourage the whole family to join in the fun.

“More sessions will be announced in the build-up to the weekend.

If any other professionals would like to join in by sharing their skills, they can get in touch with me on taryn@spadynamics.co.za.”

SWAA celebrates 10 years The Spa & Wellness Association of Africa (SWAA) recently celebrated its 10th anniversary by hosting an online webinar featuring special guests and supporters, such as Suzie Ellis, CEO of the Global Wellness Institute (GWI).

Also participating was SWAA’s patron, former President of Mauritius, Ameenah Gurib-Fakim.

SWAA founder, Elaine OkekeMartin, said she was inspired to create the association a decade ago in order to change the narrative for the spa industry in Africa. She continued: “I’d come back to Africa after many years of working in the industry overseas to find that our spas were sub-standard. At that stage, there was no sharing of information and no networks in our sector, so I spent lots of time building bridges and relationships. online @ probeauty.co.za

“We have long been focused on evolving standards for African therapies, and will release a booklet in this regard in September. Funding for SWAA is a perennial challenge

and that’s why we need to keep on pushing.

“I encourage all African countries to partner with SWAA, as it is a way to produce jobs and reduce poverty.”

News

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Social media users shy to show natural skin More than half (55%) of social media users are self-conscious about their natural skin, according to a survey conducted by Skin Proud.

Kieran Read of Professional Beauty UK writes: “More than a third (40%) attributed this lack of confidence to comparing

themselves with others, while more than a quarter (28%) claimed they felt a pressure to look a certain way, the report found.

“More than a fifth (21%) of respondents said their friends’ appearances had affected their self-confidence, while

a further 20% claimed their confidence was affected by the appearance of complete strangers on social media.

“This study shows the impact that filters and edited photos on social media can have on clients’ confidence and self-esteem.”

Luscious Lashes internationally active during pandemic Head trainer and co-owner of Luscious Lashes & Brows International, Lesley-ann Altree, was recently invited to judge the overseas Classic Charm eyelash extension competition.

In addition, Altree was nominated in the Lash Artist of the Year category of a competition run by international brand, Artistic Fur.

Her second in command, company manager Nicole Scheepers, has been asked to judge the upcoming Summer Doll Up International Eyelash Extension competition.

“During this tough time the beauty industry has been going through, we have been lucky enough to have been busy internationally and feel very blessed,” states Altree.

Changes at SIX South African skincare brand, SIX, has rebranded and consolidated its range according to demand and the results of surveys conducted. It has also changed its packaging to meet the target market’s preferences.

Says SIX founder, Marisa Dimitriadis: “Our new packaging is completely environmentally friendly – from box, to label, to container. Furthermore, we have introduced a re-use, recycle and reduce campaign, where we actually give money back for returned containers and products bought without a box.

“Every single month, for every product sold, we donate R1 to POWA (People Opposing Woman Abuse). Being a woman-owned and run brand, we feel very strongly about gender-based violence.”

Dimitriadis notes that SIX is aiming to be completely paperless by the end of the year, meaning marketing, brand catalogues, prescriptions, consultations, etc will all be digital. online @ probeauty.co.za

Some products have been consolidated, such as the new Eye and Neck Firming Cream, which was previously two separate products.

Ten products have undergone a recent ingredient revamp.

“We also launched a merchandising module that gives our clients guidelines, based on research, of how to position products on a shelf for best movement,” concludes Dimitriadis.

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ask Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

I’m interested in offering brow lamination at my salon.

What does the treatment involve and what sort of revenue can I expect?

Eyebrows have been taking centre stage over the past few years, and we now have a real trend – brow lamination. From fluffy and feather brows, to soap brows (where you use soap to set brows) and perfectly styled boy brows, they contour the face and draw attention to the eyes.

Brow lamination makes eyebrows look thicker and fuller straight away. During this treatment, brows are perfectly shaped, defined and set into the desired position for a natural lasting finish. A brow lift is the perfect way to get especially disruptive and stubborn eyebrow hairs into tip-top shape, cover any gaps and create fullerlooking, dense eyebrows that look natural, without using painful treatments such as microblading or permanent make-up.

The 9-step treatment takes a total of 13 minutes to complete. To begin, the brow area is cleansed of all make-up and natural oil residue from the skin, using a saline solution. Brows are brushed and combed into the desired shape.

Lash perm is applied to the brows for a set time, ensuring any unwanted overspill around the brows is cleaned off properly.

Once the lash perm is removed, a neutralising agent is applied to the brows for a set time. This neutralising agent is then removed and the area cleansed with a saline solution to completely remove any residue. The treatment is completed with a brow tint, and neatening up the brow shape by trimming any longer hairs with brow scissors if needed.

Salons can generate valuable extra revenue with this new, on-trend service and use the

opportunity to increase customer loyalty. You can offer brow lamination as a stand-alone treatment priced between R200 and R350, depending on the area and location of your salon.

Or, this treatment can be paired with other services, such as a lash curl or lash lift treatment to incorporate a holistic, added value, in-salon experience.

Anyone wanting to achieve the perfect shape, fullness and long-lasting results the natural way should ask their favourite salon for this service. PB Pieter Vermeer is the owner and MD of AMSco, the sole agent for the RefectoCil product range in Africa. In addition to marketing and selling, Vermeer is also committed to customer service and training. info@refectocil.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

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How to stay

compliant on your way into the global cosmetics market

In this first instalment of a two-part series of articles, TJAŠA GRUM of CE.way reveals how cosmetic business owners wanting to register their products in different countries across the globe can navigate the maze of regulatory requirements.

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egulations vary from country to country, and each one requires a separate compliance approach, which makes it difficult to keep up with everything. In order to stay compliant, it is important to get well acquainted with the relevant regulations and to stay informed about any regulatory changes.

Cosmetic regulation in the EU Cosmetic products placed on the European Union’s market have to comply with the Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 on cosmetics products.

According to this regulation, a cosmetic product is defined as: ‘any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the

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external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view of exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours’.

There are a number of products that are considered cosmetics in the EU. However, product classification is not always straightforward and sometimes products that may seem to be cosmetics do not actually fall into this category.

The classification should, therefore, be done on a case by case basis, considering all the characteristics of the product.

Responsible person The EU Cosmetics Regulation sets out the requirement of a responsible person (RP). Every product sold in the EU has to have an RP, which, as the name already suggests, is responsible for the safety of the products and their compliance with the regulation. It is important to know that the RP has to be established within the EU and it can be the manufacturer, importer, distributor, or a third person, who accepts this role in writing.

Product Information File The RP has to keep a Product Information File (PIF) for every product he/ she places on the EU market at the address specified on the product label. The PIF includes information about the safety and

quality of the product. It should include the following information (Article 11 of EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009): • A description of the cosmetic product • The Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) • A description of the method of manufacturing and either a good manufacturing practice certificate or a statement on compliance with good manufacturing practice (ISO 22716) • Where justified by the nature or the effect of the cosmetic product, a proof of the effect claimed for the cosmetic product • Any data on animal testing • Product labelling The most important part of the PIF is the CPSR, which consists of two parts, Part A and Part B. Part A includes all the information on the safety of cosmetic products, while Part B is a cosmetic product safety assessment.

Product composition Before the product is put on the market, it is also important to check the formulation in order to see if it is in line with the Annexes provided by the EU Cosmetics Regulation. The Annexes are the following: • Annex II: List of substances prohibited in cosmetic products • Annex III: List of substances restricted in cosmetic products • Annex IV: List of colorants allowed in cosmetic products • Annex V: List of preservatives allowed in cosmetic products • Annex VI: List of UV filters allowed in cosmetic products

Labelling and claims One of the important aspects of the cosmetic product is also the labelling. It has to be compliant with the labelling requirements laid down in the Regulation 1223/2009.

According to the regulation, the container and the outer packaging of cosmetic products have to bear the following information in indelible, easily legible and visible lettering: • The name and address of the RP

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• The country of origin (for products imported from countries outside of the EU) • Nominal content of the product at the time of packaging, given by weight or volume • Date of minimum durability or Period After Opening (PAO) • Precautions for use (may appear on the outer label only but in this case, an open book symbol has to be placed on the container label, which indicates that the information may be found elsewhere) • Batch number of manufacture or the reference for identifying the cosmetic product • The function of the cosmetic product, unless it is clear from its presentation • List of ingredients (which may be indicated on the outer packaging alone). The ingredient list shall be preceded by the term ‘ingredients’. Ingredients have to be listed by their INCI names and in descending order of weight at the time when they are added to the cosmetic product (by concentration). Ingredients in the concentration of less than 1% may be listed in any order after those in concentrations of more than 1%. Colorants other than colorants intended to colour the hair may be listed in any order after the other cosmetic ingredients and shall be listed by their colour index CI. Perfume and aromatic compositions shall be referred to by the terms ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’.

It is important to note that the EU consists of many countries, each with its own official language.

The regulation requires that certain parts of the labelling have

to be translated into the official language of the Member State in which the product will be sold.

Furthermore, claims are also an important factor of cosmetic labelling and sometimes define how the product is classified.

Claims have to be properly substantiated and in line with the six common criteria for cosmetics: • Legal compliance • Truthfulness • Evidential support • Honesty • Fairness • Informed decision-making Unlike in many other countries, the EU prohibits the use of many ‘free from’ claims as well as all ‘animal testing’ related claims.

It is important to note that these rules apply to all claims, whether they appear on the packaging, online, on social media posts, on advertorials etc., and whether they are text, images, symbols etc.

Product notification The last step of the compliance process in the EU is product notification. Every product sold in the EU has to be notified through the Cosmetic Product Notification Portal (CPNP) before being placed on the EU market.

The notification is done by the RP, and one notification is valid in all the EU Member States. PB Tjaša Grum has a Bachelor’s degree in Cosmetic Science and a Master’s degree in Biochemistry from the University of Ljubljana, Slovenia. She is a Regulatory Consultant at CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd, which offers regulatory and testing services for cosmetic products. tjasa@ceway.eu

online @ probeauty.co.za

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12 TOP

time-management tips for salon owners

We asked beauty business expert, LIZ MCKEON, to provide guidelines on how owners and managers can make the most of their time.

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ime management is the act or process of planning and exercising conscious control over the amount of time spent on activities, especially to increase effectiveness, efficiency or productivity.

Managers often have the heaviest workload in the salon, especially if they are also running their own column of clients.

Because the demands of being a manager can ebb and flow, it’s especially important for managers to be aware of how they manage their time. In particular, those who have recently been promoted to management may find themselves struggling with their new responsibilities.

Here are some great ways to help manage your day, ensuring you remain on top of the important things whilst planning for the unexpected.

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Add time to your diary – every day, every week and every month – for yourself.

Plan – take time to make time Time spent planning is not time wasted. A little time spent in understanding what needs to be done, and planning how to achieve it, will have a massive return on investment.

Training and coaching staff can seem like an interruption to other work, but will pay off in the long run. Don’t plan for every moment of your day – leave time for dealing with unexpected tasks and for adapting to interruptions and changing priorities.

Make lists Making lists is a vital part of planning your day, based on workload and priorities. These may be ‘to do’ lists, or on-going lists that are constantly revisited and updated. Preparing daily ‘to do’ lists can increase your productivity by 20%, can help to clear your mind, and save you both energy and stress.

Communicate Effective communication is often one of the first things to go when a manager is struggling to manage their own time. Rather than taking the time to listen, understand and explain, their minds are on their workload and misunderstandings can occur.

Management relies so heavily on communication that you absolutely must check regularly that you are taking the time to communicate effectively with your team.

Take breaks Also, taking breaks is especially important for managers as they need to set an example for other staff – otherwise it might be implied that taking a break means lack of commitment.

It is tempting, when you have a big workload, to skip your breaks. This is a false economy, as it means your concentration can suffer later in the day and make you less efficient.

Manage your emails A salon manager’s email inbox is usually a busy place, with all kinds of emails that need answering. Put aside a certain amount of time each day to reply to all emails and social media activity. But remember, don’t become a slave to email and social media. Take control and spend the core of your time on your more important tasks.

Prepare to delegate Just because you can do it, doesn’t mean you should. If you’re under pressure, think about what tasks you can delegate. And, this can include the tasks you enjoy.

Delegate Effective delegation empowers your staff to work independently and confidently. Staff who are not given responsibility will be more needy and require more of

your precious time. Making sure everyone has the training and resources to do their jobs will make life easier all round.

Keep up appearances If all else fails, make sure you appear to your team to be on top of your time management, even if you’re not. It is so important that employees feel they can approach you for help and guidance. If you give the impression of being too busy to be approached, you risk not being made aware of important issues. You will need to adjust your mindset to ensure you deal with interruptions in a flexible and open manner.

Know how to deal with interruptions The temptation is usually to react and try and deal with all issues immediately – but the disturbance to your working day may not be worth it. If you find interruptions frustrating, then consider a time sensitive open/ shut door policy – so people can come to you with issues only during certain times.

Teach yourself conversation ‘closers’ – polite ways of firmly ending a conversation that threatens to drag on.

Know what to do if it gets too much A bit of pressure is a great motivator – especially when you know you can get everything done just by organising yourself a bit more and working that much harder. In the long term, if your workload is so much that you just can’t manage your time, then you must take whatever steps needed to correct this, or you run the danger of burnout.

Time for yourself In order to make time for yourself, consider the following and write the answers down so that you can refer back to them.

How would it be a gift to others to make time for yourself?

What would it take to make time for yourself a priority?

What activities make you feel happy and nurtured?

What is keeping you from doing the thing that energises and inspires you?

How can you bring more of these simple treats into your day?

Now, take action.....commit to doing one activity from the list you just created each day for the next month.

Smell the flowers However pressured your business is, you need to take some time out to unwind to ‘smell the flowers’. Without this you will burn out. Put in plain terms, if you don’t take time to rest and rejuvenate, eventually you won’t have a salon to worry about.

Add time to your diary – every day, every week and every month – for yourself. Cut yourself free from the salon and the other demands on your life. Allow your batteries to recharge and you will come back to your business better able to make it succeed. PB

Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer & mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. liz@lizmckeon.com

online @ probeauty.co.za

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CULTURE CLUB The concept of culture in the workplace sounds like something only massive corporates focus on, but this is not the case, writes LAUREN GIBSON.

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ccording to the dictionary definition, culture in the workplace is the ‘ideas, customs, and social behaviour of a particular people or society’.

Loosely translated, this means the ‘way things are done here’ and speaks to how your

business or organisation carries itself both internally (to your staff and the engagement thereof) and externally (with your customers, consumers and clients). No matter the size of your business, you should be creating a culture in your workplace and may have already done so without even realising it.

The internal and external environment of culture in the workplace is also interlinked. If there is a toxic or negative culture in the workplace, this could have a spill over effect on your external clients, which is something they will pick up when engaging with your employees, or visiting your salon or spa. One impacts the other, so a happy strong culture means happy employees and therefore, happy guests or clients.

Value alignment Culture determines the value alignment between the organisation and the people working in it. So not only does having a strong organisational culture speak to your brand power and business strength, it also aligns employees to your business vision and mission to ensure results are delivered.

The upside of a powerful organisational culture means it can also attract external consumers to your business and is often part of the reason that they turn into loyal clients over time.

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Sense of belonging Many research articles on culture and followers (in this case your clients) have shown that consumers are attracted to where they feel they belong, and to a certain set of values, tangible appreciation and genuine care. This speaks right into our industry and businesses.

Review As the world and industries change, it is often important to review your organisational culture (just as you should frequently review your business) and see what changes need to be made to ensure incremental improvements.

A question to ask yourself is: Do I understand the current mindset and culture in my business? And where does it need to change or shift towards? If you can answer that question – great! This means that you are tuned into your people and what your business requires.

But, if you cannot answer that question, it means you get the opportunity to dive deep into your business culture with the chance to stop, pivot and make the necessary changes to rebuild your culture and way of doing things.

I encourage you to start by asking yourself the above question. It will allow you to either tick off that you have a strong culture in your workplace, or it will allow you to create one. Jump in and enjoy the discovery. PB Lauren Gibson has over 15 years of experience in the professional skincare industry.

Having been in strategy and management for the last six years with Dermalogica, she is passionate about coaching, self-care and forward thinking in businesses. Gibson has completed her PG Diploma in Management Practice with UCT GSB and looks forward to a new career internationally. laurenleigh.gibson@gmail.com

Business Tips

17

A dream team?

The bonds that form between a salon team can be strong, and we should promote the fun and support they bring to employees, writes HELLEN WARD.

A

t our recent annual company awards dinner, we were privileged to present two 25-year service awards and three 20-year service awards to some of our most valued team members.

It’s quite something to honour such loyalty.

We’ve always tried to create a family ethos within the company, and with 18 people having achieved more than two decades of service, and many more having reached 15 or 10 years, it occurred to me, while watching the lovely interaction during the speeches we made about each team member (heckling, banter and taking-themickey), what a hugely contributing factor the inter-staff relationship is in keeping people in their jobs for so long.

Feeling comfortable We all know that the sector is under threat from selfemployment. But I think we forget just what a pull it is to be part of a team. I’m sure that as much as our staff love working at the salon, they don’t just stay because it’s wellrun. They stay because they love their colleagues and enjoy feeling

The joking, the ribbing, the fun and the games are a huge part of why people come to work. comfortable among their peers.

It’s a huge attraction, and I wonder whether salon owners who are losing valuable employees to the freelance life are just not shouting loudly enough about it.

Maybe it’s an age thing – I grew up with Monty Python and the pioneers of alternative comedy, where sarcasm, irony and satire were the norm. In these increasingly politically correct times, there’s a real danger of people feeling stifled in their interactions with their coworkers by ensuring they always say the right thing. Our long-standing crew may not behave the same in front of the younger team members, but when a group of people have been working together for decades, there’s a spirit of togetherness akin to siblings. In fact, they fall out at times like siblings do. But, like most families, woe betide anyone else who criticises their kin. Isn’t that a crucial part of the wonderful glue that holds us all together?

Changing paths I’ve always loved the classic film, ‘It’s A Wonderful Life’ and I’m fascinated by the concept of being able to look back at what life would be like if one individual had failed to exist. How would your absence impact the people who’ve crossed your path during your life? It’s hugely mind-expanding to ponder such an idea.

In my small way, I think of the myriad people who’ve coupled up, made lifelong friends and even started families because they met through the work environment that I’ve been in part responsible for creating. Isn’t it also a truism that people come together and stay together for a reason? Isn’t that something to celebrate and champion?

So, bring on the banter, I say.

The joking, the ribbing, the fun and the games are a huge part of why people come to work. Let’s not stifle it completely. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. laurenleigh.gibson@gmail.com

online @ probeauty.co.za

Sponsored Article

18

NuSkinnovation offers prime aesthetics franchise opportunity The NUSKINNOVATION AESTHETIC CLINIC brand is offering franchise opportunities for those interested in opening up a high end aesthetics practice, with excellent potential for return on investment.

N

uSkinnovation PTY Ltd proudly owns first world technology systems. At NuSkinnovation, we pride ourselves on providing individualised, superior cosmetic services using only state of the art technologies.

Founded by Nicolene Pelster, NuSkinnovation opened its first franchise in Nelspruit in August 2019, owned by Megan Wauts and Annalize van Asweging.

Pelster is currently assisting clients who are interested in opening franchises in Stellenbosch, Roodepoort and Pretoria North.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Providing some background on the NuSkinnovation brand, Pelster comments: “At the age of 42, after having been a house mom for 26 years, I went for my first IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) treatment on the same system I own today. I could not believe the amazing results and my dream profession was born that day.

It took me three years to get the finances together and also to do all the studies and training necessary to be able to start my own clinic. “In June 2016, I opened my clinic with one system (Candela Nordlys) at my house, and then in March 2017, I moved into premises in Centurion.

By September that year, together

19 Sponsored Article

with my second system, the Fotona StarWalker, my first somatologist began working at the practice.

Both of us went for training in Slovenia and in April 2019, my second somatologist joined us and also headed to Slovenia for training.”

Amazing growth Pelster was inspired to franchise the NuSkinnovation brand because of the amazing growth of her clinic and the incredible treatment results.

She continues: “I received a lot of enquiries and interest in my brand and so many people were inspired by my story. Therefore, I decided to register my brand as a franchise in January 2019.”

She notes that you can start the franchise with a single system only, or both systems, depending on the finances available.

“I sell a turnkey investment, meaning that you can literally walk in and start to operate, as I set the place up and provide full training to two people,” explains Pelster. “A franchise with two rooms, reception and the Ellipse Fotona Starwalker would cost you around R2.2 million, and with the Candela Nordlys also included, it would be R3.9 million.

Detailed quotations and packages can be worked out on request.

“At the end of last year, we also invested in a VelaShape III system and upgraded the Ellipse system to medical grade. In addition, I have added a full time aesthetic doctor and physiotherapist to my clinic. We also have permanent make-up services on board. All this is beneficial for cross-referrals of patients and helps the practice owner to pay the rent.”

Benefits of being a franchisee NuSkinnovation is positioned as a highly profitable, three-year return on investment business that has an established reputation and image, as well as proven management. The franchise offers the independence of small business ownership with the necessary support.

Pelster points out that buying into a franchise has a higher rate of success than starting up

your own business. In addition, it may be easier to secure finance for a franchise, and it might even cost less to buy a franchise than start your own business of the same type.

She says: “I can connect franchisees with companies that supply financing. We also fully train the franchisees to the point where they can run their businesses the way that I do, since I have the recipe that works and is successful.

Because of this intensive training, you don’t necessarily need business experience to run a NuSkinnovation franchise.

“I can even turn a current beauty salon into an aesthetic franchise, if the owner feels their interest is moving in that direction. My franchise concept can also work if you are a doctor and want to offer aesthetic treatments.”

If you are interested in finding out more about the NuSkinnovation franchise, please contact 082 377 4436 or visit www.nuskinnovation.co.za.

Check out our Facebook page for the latest news.

Treatments offered at NuSkinnovation Photo Rejuvenation

Venous Lakes

Tattoo Removal

Hair Removal

Onychomycosis (Nail Fungus)

Age Spot Removal

Leg Vessels

Poikiloderma of Civatte

Solar Lentigo Spots

Rosacea

Port Wine Stains

Acne Vulgaris

Telangiectasias

Warts

Facial Pores

Surgical Scars

Skin Resurfacing

Wrinkle Reduction

Acne Scarring

Striae (Stretch Marks)

Velashape III (optional)

Skin Texture

Melasma (Hyperpigmentation)

Microdermabrasion (optional) online @ probeauty.co.za

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Spa Focus

22

face yoga IN YOUR SPA LOUISE PITOT of Body Orchestra unpacks a trending treatment that centres on exercising the facial muscles.

I

magine your face with reduced lines around the mouth, no crèpey skin on the neck, or less droopy eyelids.

Perhaps it is more defined cheekbones that you are after, or reduced facial puffiness? Hey, just losing that ‘number 11’ frown line between the brows can be life-changing, right?

Did you know that there are 57 muscles in the face and neck? I’m guessing that many of your clients exercise their bodies, but how many are exercising their faces?

They come to you for treatments and apply active products. Adding on a few prescribed face yoga techniques could lift and tighten the skin.

Face yoga is fast becoming the best add-on to a facial treatment and home protocol. The results are quick, and they are longlasting. A holistic skincare routine will yield the best results. What you put on your skin is half the equation. What you put in your body through food and supplements, as well as how you move your body and face, is just as important.

The muscles in the face are different from those in the body. They attach to each other, the bones and the skin, and are mostly controlled by the facial nerves. This is what gives us the ability to make expressions.

Because of this, when you exercise these tiny muscles, they are firmed and lifted and the skin that they are attached to is also lifted and tightened. This reduction in lines and wrinkles yields a younger-looking appearance. online @ probeauty.co.za

Immediate results Daily face yoga results are visible immediately. Long-term improvement is visible within about two weeks. After two to four months, you’ll notice you have fewer lines and less facial tension. In addition, people will notice that you look healthy and more energised.

Within six to nine months, most people have reported that they look and feel many years younger and are more relaxed within themselves.

I don’t know of any product that can yield such results.

Ageing skin Some aspects that cause skin ageing are the weakening of the face muscles and the reduction of collagen and elastin production, as well as the breakdown of connective tissue. Added to this burden are poor lifestyle choices, stress, negativity and toxins.

Face yoga affects the muscles, hypodermis, dermis and epidermis.

By working all these layers correctly,

Within six to nine months, most people have reported that they look and feel many years younger and are more relaxed within themselves. you’ll increase blood circulation, enhance lymphatic flow, and allow fresh oxygen to reach the cells of the skin. Face yoga also helps you to release tension and relax the muscles that are creating expression lines.

I love how this process results in a clear, youthful glowing and taught skin, as well as new awareness from the inside out.

Typical session A face yoga session includes a warmup, specific face exercises, face lift massage, acupressure, some

relaxation and ends with wellbeing tips. Face yoga is fun to practice in a class format (in person or online) or workshop. My favourite way is to introduce it to my clients at the end of each facial treatment as an instruction of home care.

Face yoga taught by a certified teacher will ensure the exercises are practised correctly and that repetitive movements do not cause wrinkles. It is safe for everyone and such an incredible add-on to a salon or spa’s services.

When is the best time to start face yoga? I’d say today! PB

Spa Focus

23

Louise Pitot is the South African Super Trainer for Face Yoga. In her own practice (Body Orchestra

by Louise Pitot), she combines holistic beauty including probiotic facials, gua sha and face yoga with Eating Psychology and Functional Medicine coaching. Looking at balanced hormones, ageless beauty strategies and a nourished body, Pitot believes women can create holistic health and even age backwards. louise@louisepitot.com

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Spa Focus

24

The importance of staff wellbeing As the spa industry starts reopening globally, we are all faced with the same challenges as we navigate our way through the ‘new abnormal’, writes MARISA DIMITRIADIS.

A

key issue in the running of any spa business that is often overlooked, is the wellbeing of your staff. This is a critical business responsibility which deserves careful thought and execution.

As an owner or manager, you have experienced the challenges of implementing new protocols and trying to keep your space virus free. Imagine for a moment how this new work environment and the added responsibilities may be affecting the wellbeing of your

online @ probeauty.co.za

staff. It is understandable that you all feel completely overwhelmed with the added workload and pressure.

Let’s start off with defining the word wellbeing. Wikipedia defines wellbeing or wellness as the condition of an individual or group. It states: ‘Wellness refers to diverse and interconnected dimensions of physical, mental, and social wellbeing that extend beyond the traditional definition of health’.

Why is this so important in your business? If you were to conduct a survey to ascertain

the way the general public has been feeling since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, you would encounter words such as – stressed, traumatised, afraid, anxious and worried, to name but a few. It is highly unlikely that you will hear anyone say they’re feeling energised, wonderful, elated and fantastic. The reality is that we are dealing with a mentally fragile workforce.

Energy transference In our industry, more so than any other, we rely on energy transference to complete the

customer experience and determine whether a customer becomes loyal or lost. Energy transference is the magic that happens when a therapist touches her client, whether during a massage or skin treatment. Every time we touch a client, our energy transfers to them and it stands to reason then, that the client transfers their energy to the therapist as well. Have you ever had a massage and felt that the therapist had ‘angel hands’ or ‘heavenly hands’? Have you ever had a massage where you felt the opposite, perhaps irritated or anxious after the massage? Well, that feeling you have after a spa or salon treatment is a direct result of the energy transferred by the therapist.

It may be unfathomable that this one aspect could make or break your business and now, more than ever, you are in no position to neglect any avenue to success.

Therefore it is your responsibility as owner or manager to be in control and manage your staff wellbeing to ensure their morale and psyche is energised, positive, happy and nurturing.

How to manage wellbeing Let’s now investigate three ideas to assist you in managing the wellbeing of your staff. The focus is to prompt them to share information they ordinarily would not, giving you valuable insight into their physical and emotional state.

• Quality of life questionnaire • Letter to COVID • Check in feeling word The quality of life questionnaire will give you crucial insight into the frame of mind of your team member. It covers the emotional, spiritual, financial, environmental, social, physical, cognitive and behavioural aspects of a person’s life. This questionnaire will determine whether the staff member is capable of working on your clients, or whether you need to seek further interventions to better their state of mind.

Writing a letter to COVID is fun and also allows for a good, solid vent. Encourage each staff member to write a structured

• Tell COVID who was there for you and helped you get through the lockdown / quarantine.

• Lastly, tell COVID what your future plans are in terms of getting back on track.

This is a powerful tool to assist owners and managers to understand the impact that the pandemic has had on each individual member of staff.

The check in feeling word is a simple exercise which will allow each person to express their daily feelings in a safe environment.

The idea is to create a group chat platform where team members share one word to describe the way they feel every morning, prior to arriving at work. This allows team members

letter to COVID. Ensure they write a minimum of one page but don’t limit them to a maximum.

The more they write, the more they vent.

Here is a guide to the proposed structure of the letter: • Cleary tell COVID how you feel. Be sure to describe each emotion you are feeling.

• Tell COVID what has happened in your life during lockdown / quarantine.

• Tell COVID three of your lowest moments.

• Tell COVID what you learnt during lockdown / quarantine.

• Tell COVID three of your best moments during lockdown / quarantine.

to offer each other support where needed, as well as a deeper level of understanding, fostering empathy and care in the workplace.

Again, as an owner or manager, feeling overwhelmed at this juncture is understandable.

The absolute last thing you need to be burdened with is creating a wellness strategy for your team. It is important to leverage channels available to ease your workload. For this reason, we have devised a Dynamic Employee Wellness Guide specific to our industry, with 13 ideas to implement in your business as well as a comprehensive Quality of Life Questionnaire. This guide is available at https://spaprofessionals-guild.company.site Deepak Chopra once said: “For everyone, wellbeing is a journey….

The secret is committing to that journey and taking those first steps with hope and belief in yourself.”

So, I urge you all to take those first steps now and commit to a wellness journey for yourself and your team. PB Marisa Dimitriadis if founder of The Spa Consultants and co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Spa Focus

25

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ISA ISA CARSTENS CARSTENS ACADEMY ACADEMY ISA CARSTENS, ISA CARSTENS, a name a name you you can trust. can trust.

THE ISA THE CARSTENS® ISA CARSTENS® ACADEMY ACADEMY has built hasa built proud a proud historyhistory of providing of providing qualityquality education education and services and services to just to over just4000 over 4000 alumni,alumni, since being since established being established in 1978. in As 1978. a leader As a leader in acadein academic quality mic quality and innovation and innovation in the in Health the Health and Skincare and Skincare Industry, Industry, Isa Carstens Isa Carstens Academy Academy is recognised is recognised as a top as national a top national trainingtraining institution institution and devoted and devoted to excellence to excellence in teaching, in teaching, learning learning and and developing developing students students and entrepreneurs and entrepreneurs who make who amake difference, a difference, not only notnationally, only nationally, but also butinternationally. also internationally.

The Wellness The Wellness economy economy which which was identified was identified as a $4.2 as atrillion-dollar $4.2 trillion-dollar inindustrydustry in 2017, in encompasses 2017, encompasses industries industries that enable that enable consumers consumers to incorpoto incorporate wellness rate wellness activities activities and lifestyle and lifestyle into their intodaily theirlives. dailyThe lives.

Global The Global Wellness Wellness Economy Economy includes includes ten sectors ten sectors of which of which our students our students find employment find employment in 4 ofin 4 of these sectors, these sectors, namelynamely Personal Personal Care, Beauty Care, Beauty and Anti-Ageing and Anti-Ageing ($1.083b), ($1.083b), Healthy Healthy Eating Eating & Nutrition & Nutrition and Weight and Weight Loss ( Loss $702b), ( $702b), Spa Economy Spa Economy ($119b) ($119b) and Thermal and Thermal and Mineral and Mineral SpringsSprings ($536b). ($536b).

With aWith continuing a continuing passionpassion in this in ever-evolving this ever-evolving industry industry and our and inspiration our inspiration and and commitment commitment to excellence, to excellence, we arewe proud are proud to offer tohighly offer personalized highly personalized education. education.

Based Based on two oncampuses, two campuses, Stellenbosch Stellenbosch in the inWestern the Western Cape and CapePretoria and Pretoria in in Gauteng, Gauteng, Isa Carstens Isa Carstens Academy Academy offers offers contact-, contact-, blendedblendedand distance and distance learning learning programmes programmes that are that fully arealigned fully aligned on theon National the National Qualifications Qualifications Sub-Framework Sub-Framework as wellasaswell a wide as aarray wide of array short of courses. short courses.

Historically, Historically, the beauty, the beauty, health health and skincare and skincare industry industry has been hasseen beenasseen largely as largely skills trainskills training with ingno with career no career path for path thefor therapist the therapist to follow. to follow.

However, However, with the with development the development in the in the industry, industry, movingmoving away from awaybeauty from beauty to a wellness to a wellness industry, industry, the industry the industry has moved has moved away from away from skills only skillstraining only training to more to academically more academically focussed focussed programmes, programmes, creating creating a clearacareer clear career path for path for the somatologist the somatologist wanting wanting to further to further his/herhis/her studies.studies.

To ensure To ensure we create we create a definite a definite careercareer path for path ourfor students, our students, the Isathe Carstens Isa Carstens Academy Academy offers offers the fol-the followinglowing programmes programmes on theon National the National Qualifications Qualifications Sub-Framework: Sub-Framework:

Qualification Qualification

NQF Level NQF Level Total Credits Total Credits Mode Mode of Delivery of Delivery

Higher Higher Certificate Certificate in in 5 Front Office Front Administration Office Administration

5

120

120

Contact Contact

Diploma Diploma in Somatology in Somatology 6

6

360

360

Contact Contact

Advanced Advanced Diploma Diploma in in DermalDermal Aesthetics Aesthetics

7

120

120 Distance Distance Learning Learning

7

If we turn If weback turnthe back clock the to clock 40 years to 40 ago, yearsweago, found we found that therapists that therapists working working in this in industry this industry were largely were largely focussed focussed on performing on performing beautifying beautifying treatments, treatments, focussing focussing on theon upper the upper level oflevel the of epidermis the epidermis to eventoout even skin outtexture skin texture and and performing performing a deepa cleansing deep cleansing treatment treatment for their for clients. their clients.

Body treatments Body treatments were largely were largely focussed focussed on relaxation. on relaxation.

With the With emerging the emerging spa industry, spa industry, the inclusion the inclusion of various of various complementary complementary therapies therapies has ledhas theled therapist the therapist into developing into developing a morea holistic more holistic way ofway ap- of approaching proaching a client, a client, linkinglinking the client’s the client’s lifestylelifestyle and dietary and dietary historyhistory to the to the conditions conditions presenting. presenting.

The theory The theory components components of the of programmes the programmes now have nowtohave include to include sub- subjects such jectsassuch Anatomy as Anatomy and Physiology, and Physiology, Science, Science, Nutrition Nutrition and Social and Social Psy- Psyonline @ probeauty.co.za

chology. A far stretch from being skills only.

What we saw happening 10 years ago was the enormous growth in the non-invasive anti-ageing industry.

Aesthetic Medicine is one of the fastest growing fields in healthcare today. The demand for non-surgical facial rejuvenation therapy is growing and the partnership between doctors, nurses and somatologists is the ideal model to provide safe, state of the art care for patients. These types of treatments that are being performed by somatologist works on a much deeper level and could go down to the papillary dermis, with the incidence of complications being much greater. This would require a somatologist to not only have a more in-depth understanding of the treatments or technology he/she is performing and the physiological effect it has on the skin or body, but also to have problem solving abilities on a much higher level.

At the Isa Carstens Academy, our number one mission has always been to develop

highly employable therapists. In order to do this, we need to ensure that our courses remain relevant and industry specific. We focus on providing the industry with registered qualifications and tailor-made short courses in areas where a need for continuous professional development has been identified i.e. Laser and Light therapies, Pigmentation, Scarring and Wound Healing, Acne and Rosacea, The Aging skin, Body contouring, Advanced Aesthetic Procedures and Salon and Spa management.

It is important for anyone working in this ever-evolving industry to make continuous professional development a priority. CPD is an ongoing process and continues throughout a professional’s career. Not only to enable you to get ahead and stay ahead but also to prepare for the inevitable changes and improvements that are made in the wellness industry. It will not only assist you in being relevant with new development in the industry, but also to excel in it.

courses have been developed for the working beauty therapist/somatologist with the majority of content being completed online, followed by condensed practical sessions if required.

Visit us on YouTube.

The Isa Carstens Academy created several short YouTube videos where frequently asked questions are addressed and explained by our Academic Head, YolandĂŠ Swanepoel.

Here you can learn more about qualifications and registrations as well as work designations within our industry.

You can also learn from industry experts about the symbiotic relationship between Therapists and Aesthetic Physicians when Advanced Dermal Aestheticians and Physicians work together to treat the whole patient, with Dermatologist Dr Suretha Kannenberg.

Click on the YouTube logo to visit our channel.

At the Isa Carstens Academy our short

TAKE YOUR CAREER

BEYOND BEAUTY Discover how the Isa Carstens Academy can help advance your career with our advanced qualifications and quality short courses.

Since 1978, the Isa Carstens Academy has firmly established itself as a leader in academic quality with a well-earned reputation for innovation in the Health and Skincare Industry.

Our team is devoted to excellence in teaching, learning and developing students and entrepreneurs who make a difference, not only nationally, but also internationally.

Contact us for a virtual or on-site campus tour and let our career consultants guide you through our course offerings.

Stellenbosch: +27 (0)21 883 9777 | Pretoria: +27 (0)12 348 0125

Diploma in SOMATOLOGY Timeline: 3 years NQF Level 6 (360 credits) SAQA ID: 83046

isacarstens.co.za

info@isacarstens.co.za

@isacarstensacademy

@isacarstens

Advanced Diploma in DERMAL AESTHETICS Timeline: 1 year NQF Level 7 (120 credits) SAQA ID: 97898

Higher Certificate in FRONT OFFICE ADMINISTRATION Timeline: 1 year NQF Level 5 (120 credits) SAQA ID: 111453

Isa Carstens Academy is registered with the Department of Higher Education and Training as a Higher Education Institution under the Higher Education Act, 1997. Registration Certificate Number: 2000/HE07/025.

Qualifications registered by SAQA ID Number: 111453 (NQF Level 5), SAQA ID Number: 83046 (NQF Level 6) & SAQA ID Number: 97898 (NQF Level 7)

online @ probeauty.co.za

Tertiary Education

28

A

close study

With the future of the beauty industry in the hands of the next generation of therapists, JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to some top training institutions to find out what challenges they face and how they have dealt with the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdown.

W

hile the COVID-19 lockdown in South Africa has had a catastrophic effect on the economy, it also totally disrupted tertiary education study schedules.

Says Yolandé Swanepoel, academic head of Isa Carstens Academy: “We had to adapt our teaching methodology to include online training for our theory components. This enabled us to restructure our academic programme to focus on the theory components during the lockdown period and we are in the process of phasing in our students in line with the legislation laid down by the Department of Higher Education and Training.

“With the focus on the practical components when students return, we will be able to successfully teach out all final year students to still graduate, and for our 2nd and 3rd year students to progress to the next academic year.”

As soon as President Cyril Ramaphosa announced the lockdown on 27 March, director of Soma Sense Academy, Menna Kleine, and her team prepared a revised timetable mainly focusing on the theoretical aspects of the programmes.

She continues: “As most students did not own a laptop but owned smart phones, my ingenious team worked out that if the students bought a WhatsApp ticket for as little as R26, we could use this platform to send messages and lecturers could make small videos of the practical

online @ probeauty.co.za

Tertiary Education

29

aspects of the syllabus. They can also hold small video WhatsApp group training calls.”

For beauty therapy practical lessons, students were required to perform the various treatments on a family member at home and had to submit videos of their work.

Comments Kleine: “The key area where our students missed out was the physical and tactile aspects of the syllabus, where the student can feel the massage movements and techniques performed on themselves, and the guidance they receive while performing this on a model.

“I found the communication between all the educational entities very poor to say the least, and the frustration of waiting for months to get some clarity on our future was torturous. Almost a month was wasted waiting for the government to publish the regulations.”

As BTI (Beauty Therapy Institute) launched online theory learning in March 2019 to accommodate the 21st century learner, the school was already e-ready when lockdown happened.

Says BTI director, Sandy Fuhr: “We also continued with theory classes via webinars and WhatsApp calls, utilising our App

In this era of COVID-19, I think staff and students are wanting to have a feeling of safety in being at schools.

New students will need to feel confident to enter a ‘touch industry’ with potential ongoing contamination issues.

States Swanepoel: “The general public and employers (and in many instances also prospective students and therapists) are unaware of the differences between these qualifications. This often leads to students not being able to get their dream job with the qualification/ course they completed, and qualifications not being recognised for credits should students want to pursue further career paths. Employers end up disappointed in the therapists they employ.

“Students who have completed courses at unregistered tertiary >

and learning platform for our students. Additionally, we used lockdown time to create more videos, online assessments and PowerPoint presentations to help our students learn in an easier manner. Now that the theory is behind them, we are focusing on practicals, which of course is the fun part.”

Obstacles As to the biggest challenges facing the beauty tertiary education sector, Isa Carstens Academy’s Swanepoel believes the magnitude of different levels of courses in the industry is a huge hurdle.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Tertiary Education

30

institutions were brought under the impression that their qualifications are on an equal level as those of registered schools, only to find out that the piece of paper they received is not recognised at all in the formal South African education framework.”

Soma Sense’s Kleine believes that funding of students is a huge challenge. “Many of the students who have a love and passion for our industry don’t always have access to funding In this regard, private providers are not receiving the funding opportunities they used to receive in the past.

Unfortunately, the funding that is available through the Services Seta (Sector Education & Training Authority) is allocated to learnerships and not bursaries.

“This makes a huge difference as a bursary covers all the costs for the students’ studies, whereas learnerships do not provide enough funding for a student to receive the requisite kits/ tools etc. to complete the qualification in a meaningful manor. Furthermore, the funding is often only designated for employed learners only, or it is only allocated to public providers that are already subsidised. So, our industry is spending a lot of money on skills development levies but is not

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seeing a quality added return.”

BTI’s Fuhr believes that online practical learning and teaching that is being done in unscrupulous schools is adversely affecting the sector. She continues: “I think there is still a fair portion of flyby-night, unregistered beauty schools around. In fact, I just heard of one such place that taught a student waxing and nails online in five days! What a concern for the unsuspecting consumer, which leads to potentially giving the industry a bad reputation.

“In this era of COVID-19, I think staff and students are wanting to have a feeling of safety in being at schools. New students will need to feel confident to enter a ‘touch industry’ with potential ongoing contamination issues.”

Work ethic A common complaint from beauty salon and spa owners and managers, is that graduates often don’t exhibit the kind of work ethic needed in the professional environment.

Says Isa Carstens Academy’s Swanepoel: “Over the past 42 years, we have found that discipline and fostering a passion for this industry are key factors to establishing a solid work ethic in our students. We are thus very

strict on dress code, conduct and professionalism at all times. During our training, we focus on teaching students to believe in their own capabilities and the impact they have on their client’s well-being, creating a sense of belonging as part of the Isa Carstens family and then they soon start to behave in a manner of which we are proud. To give students experience of a realworld working environment, we have two Wellness Clinics that are open to the public on a daily basis.

“It comes down to understanding what attributes you want in a therapist for the specific position and understanding the different levels of qualifications in South Africa. Attributes go much further than just looking at the skills the therapist can perform, and I often think this is where the confusion comes in.”

Soma Sense’s Kleine adds: “While we do our best at the academy to engender a solid work ethic in students, I strongly believe that the salons/ spas that will succeed will be those that focus their energies on building a new team dynamic, where everyone has to have a more profound understanding of the importance of service delivery, client care and gratitude for the clients who do visit our salons and spas. >

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Tertiary Education

32 “This requires a thorough understanding of what our clients’ needs are, which means we have to go back to basics and embrace the good old client card. In many cases I have found that therapists do not even read their client cards and cannot understand why they can’t make a sale. We need to let our teams know that we need to fulfill our clients’ needs. The team also needs to have a clear understanding that the business is only as good as their weakest link or therapist.”

Qualifications Isa Carstens Academy’s Swanepoel advises salon owners and managers who are looking for therapists to first ensure that the candidate’s qualification was obtained from a registered provider. All providers, private and public, need to be registered by the Department of Higher Education and Training.

She continues: “Then you need to look at the NQF level of the specific qualification. The Government introduced a single unified national qualification framework for education in South Africa that applies to all public

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and private institutions in South Africa. This allows for students to easily move from one qualification to another, as well as between institutions.

Information is available at https://allqs.saqa.org.za/ “It is important to note that a Higher Certificate and Advanced Certificate will not give you automatic access to an Advanced Diploma. Should you want to progress academically, the best route would be to start with a Diploma in Somatology.

Short courses are not listed on the National Qualifications Framework; they are not credit bearing and do not lead to a qualification.”

Holistic knowledge A beauty professional who has knowledge of the inner workings of the body, as well as knowledge of the positive effect that nutrition, health and fitness can have on a client’s skin and hair, is undoubtedly going to be ahead of the curve, and their peers.

So says Paul Mills, MD of HFPA Fitness Academy. He continues: “Upskilling yourself in these areas can only add value to your offerings, and therefore, to your

clients. There is a misconception that, if you study nutrition and fitness, you will either work as a fitness professional, or a nutritionist.

What if you could use all of these qualifications together, and work as a health and beauty coach for your clients, with the ability to grow your scope of practice far beyond what you thought possible?

“COVID-19 has seen many health and beauty professionals becoming a lot more creative in order to stay relevant and to make money. Your boundaries are only limited by your imagination. If you are passionate about health and beauty, there is no limit to what you can achieve, as long as you have the correct qualifications.”

Mills notes that HFPA has an extensive offering of internationally portable courses to suit the need of anyone looking to upskill themselves and branch out. One of the most advanced fitness courses is the Higher Certificate in Exercise Science. This is a higher education qualification that offers Personal Training, Sports Conditioning and an introduction to Special Populations.

The Advanced Certificate in Exercise Science (NQF6) leads on from this course, allowing the graduate to work with special populations such as the young, the elderly and pregnant women. It is available in Full Time, Part Time and Distance modes, making it accessible to the working beauty professional anytime, anywhere.

Internationally, Higher Education qualifications are recognised as being of a very high standard.

HFPA also offers the Plaskett Advanced Diploma in Nutritional Therapy course. States Mills: “This is an incredibly scientific and advanced practitioner level course that qualifies you to be a nutritionist. Students can register with the International Institute for Complementary Therapists (IICT), “If you prefer to start on a smaller scale, why not look at some of our shorter courses such as sports massage, nutrition advisor, pilates mat instructor or yoga teacher trainer.” PB

33 Tertiary Education

Growing the businesses of tomorrow The movement towards natural plant-based cosmeceuticals is gaining ever more traction around the world. Given the broad plant diversity of South Africa, there presents amazing scope for new product development to treat a wide range of skin conditions.

P

rofessor Lall at the University of Pretoria was prompted by the untapped potential of South African plant species to evaluate unexplored plants and develop products which can be applied topically.

Several plants have been proven to have an effect for skin related issues such as melasma, spots, pigmentation, acne and anti-ageing.

As of today, 16 prototype products have been developed through Professor Lall and her research team.

Tertiary institutions providing education and training for the beauty industry typically train students on existing products and modes of application, leaving little scope for personal business growth.

Professor Lall is passionate about a future where products from indigenous plants will not only benefit companies and consumers, but also the local communities and entrepreneurs in the beauty industry: She says: “By adding value to local indigenous plants, we might interest pharmaceutical companies to help in the development of novel cosmetic products. South Africa does not beneficiate enough local resources, choosing rather to export.

We can therefore not derive the value benefits third parties add to the resources in turning them into products. The result is that some of the local cosmetic companies import final products and we lose local beneficiation, local industry, and jobs.

By adding value to local indigenous plants, we might interest pharmaceutical companies to help in the development of novel cosmetic products.

“We hope our project may lead to the beneficiation of local endemic plant material, as well infrastructure building and upliftment in the community.

It could also help to create a local market for community farmers for raw materials, replace imports, create jobs in local production, and lead to future exports, the training of students, and technology transfer between universities.”

Accredited course These limitations in the current industry prompted Professor Lall to create a year-long University accredited course (5 SACNASP CPD Points): Phytomedicine and Natural Products, Presented by the Department of Plant and Soil Sciences, University of Pretoria.

This is a blended learning short course that aims to provide practical and theoretical skills to scientists and researchers specialising in the discovery of new natural products from plants and their uses. Students will be provided with the skills to undertake research within the

discipline of Phytomedicine and Natural Products, as articulated during the course.

Students will have the benefit of attending a specialised course in life sciences and therefore be enabled to work at the interface between a specialised research environment and the more practical immediate problem-solving arena within a phyto-drug industry.

This multidisciplinary and collaborative course will incorporate plant science, phytochemistry, pharmacology, plant pathology, as well as safety and efficacy issues of commonly used phyto-drugs – with emphasis on pharmaceutical and agricultural applications.

After successfully completing this course, students will have a comprehensive insight into the field of Phytomedicine and Natural Products, have gained knowledge on pharmacological action of plant constituents, learnt different bioassays used in the laboratory to scientifically prove or reject the claims, and have learnt practical aspects related to the quality control and phyto-drug formulation.

The course also offers hands on teaching of making their own soaps, body lotions, hair pomade and lip balm.

“These skills play such a key role towards young entrepreneurs for the possibility of their own start-up company in the fields of alternative therapy treatments such as naturopathy, homeopathy and cosmetics,” concludes Professor Lall. PB online @ probeauty.co.za

Peeling

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CHEMICAL

PEELING tips for the professional

SONETTE DONKER, founder of the Skin iD Clinic in Sandton, reveals vital pointers for performing in-salon peels.

T

he first and most important thing to do before a chemical peeling treatment is a consultation. During the consultation you need to establish if the client’s skin can actually handle a peel. For instance, if a skin is dehydrated and thin due to medication, the peeling agent will penetrate deeper than you intend, so not only will you lose control over the results, but there will be complications as well. When it comes to chemical peels, it’s all about having control of the penetration to get the best results.

Prepare the skin before a peel with active home care products containing retinol and hydroxy acids. Normally, two to four weeks are needed prior to the client’s first peel. The client should not exfoliate a week prior to the peel.

Keep the temperature of water cooler than normal during cleansing and peel removal, so as not to overstimulate the skin. The peel will generate heat in the skin, therefore you want to cool it as much as possible.

Ensure that you neutralise the peel 100%, as some peels will keep

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on peeling the skin and might lead to severe dehydration and sensitivity.

Post procedure protocol After the peeling procedure, a post peeling cream must be used, which will speed up skin healing as well as protect the skin against environmental aggressors. This cream normally needs to be used for at least a week after the peel.

The client might feel slightly sunburnt after the peel, but this is normal.

It is vital that the client has no or little sun exposure after the peel and that she / he applies a sun protection of at least 30 post peel.

Some post peeling creams already contain an SPF. There must be no exfoliation at home for the client for a week post peel.

Your clients will have better results if they do a course of peels, normally four to six peels done every one or two weeks. Then rest the skin for four weeks and continue with a peel every four to six weeks to maintain the results achieved.

The stronger the peel, the longer the waiting period will be between treatments and the

shorter each treatment needs to be to prevent overstimulation.

If the peel is not that strong, then you can massage it in and make the treatment longer.

Time vs layers Hydroxy acid peels are always time-dependent and need to be neutralised or buffered after the desired time, whereas TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels are layer-dependent.

Both these types of peels comes in a variety of strengths and you will often start with the mildest and work up to the stronger formulation. Some clients may stay with the milder strength, as their skins won’t be able to tolerate the stronger formulations. PB Sonette Donker is a qualified professional skincare therapist with 20 years of experience. She has worked for companies such as Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and pHformula, and travelled the world presenting at congresses, press events and medical conferences. Donker specialises in the treatment of acne, hyperpigmentation and the visible signs of ageing. sonette@skinid.co.za

Peeling

35

The

appeal of peels In-salon chemical peels have long been accepted as an effective skin-resurfacing modality, where the top layers of the skin are removed to reveal the younger, smoother skin below. Depending on the strength of the peel, they can be performed as a standalone treatment, or incorporated into a facial treatment.

DermaFix DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care offers superficial to medium-depth peels, combining a variety of peeling agents including AHAs, BHAs, TCA and Vitamin A Propionate. This range of peels work to target various concerns including ageing, acne, hyperpigmentation, scarring and stretch marks.

The scientific DermaFix 4 Stage Progressive Peel incorporates Stage 1 DermaPeel with Salicylic Acid, a naturally occurring substance found in the bark of the willow tree, helping to aid in penetration of other peeling agents. This is followed

by Stage 2 and 3 application of Trichloroacetic TCA at different percentages, and then rounded off with the application of Vitamin A Propionate in Stage 4.

The aim of this peel is to progressively work towards the required skin depth level on Fitzpatrick Skin Types I to VI. DermaPeel has an excellent safety profile and has been used for over 100 years as a therapeutic agent to treat hyperkeratotic epidermal lesions.

It may be used on all skin types with substantial efficacy and minimal ‘down time’ and has also shown to enhance the

penetration of Trichloroacetic acid TCA, according to the P.E. Grimes Division of Dermatology, Department of Medicine, David Geffen School of Medicine, University of California, Los Angeles.

Other peels offered in the DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care range include the DermaFix Beta Gel Peel, a Salicylic BHA and Lactic AHA combination peel, and the DermaFix DermaBright, a mini-peel incorporating Mandelic AHA. DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care peels work to resurface the skin whilst encouraging cellular renewal. Skin texture and tone

improves, whilst fine lines and wrinkles are softened. Benefits may be noticed across ageing, acne, hyperpigmented and scarred skin concerns.

The brand recommends that suitable homecare is introduced, and that a thorough skin care routine is followed prior to peeling, to prepare the skin appropriately. Melanocyte control should also be introduced at least one month prior to peeling, especially for Fitzpatrick Skin Types 1 to 6 and hyperpigmented skin concerns.

Use of DermaFix MelanoDerm is recommended both pre-and post peel to minimise the risk of post- >

Peeling

36 inflammatory hyperpigmentation formation, often associated with incorrect peeling systems.

Sun exposure post peeling without use of a high protection sunscreen, like DermaFix DermaShield SPF40 or SPF50, will lead to an uneven skin tone.

Downtime will vary from client to client and will largely be dependent on the peeling medium used, the general health of the skin, as well as the age of the client. Typically, a client can expect to shed for a few days post-peel. Nourishment of this new skin is imperative and may be achieved with DermaFix Skin ResQ or HydraSooth SOS. The recently launched DermaFix CDB Lotion and soon-to-arrive DermaFix CBD Oil (THC Free) may be included for improved skin barrier restoration benefits.

RégimA ‘The Double Whammy’ Peel from RégimA is a time-dependent, two-layer combination peel designed to work down to the basal layer. These peels are not too ablative, yet produce the desired results without too much disruption to work and personal life. Applications include acne, hypertrophic scarring, irregular pigmentation, sun damage, wrinkles and skin ageing.

Says Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA: “A powerful combination of natural acids and healing ingredients, this treatment is safe all year round, for all skin types, ethnicities and ages. These peels also have a brightening effect, more powerful

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than hydroquinone, but without any side effects.”

The Power Peel is formulated with a 60% combination of six natural AHAs, as in malic, lactic, citric, raspberry, apple and peach.

Acne Attack has 30% salicylic acid, 12% lactic acid, meadowsweet, and the botanical complex, phytelene complex.

Faucitt continues: “There is a very good profit margin for salons and spas when they offer this treatment. For example, the whole treatment will cost the salon under R100 and they charge a minimum of R750.

Obviously prices vary between salons depending on their area and overheads. There is also the chance to add on treatment masques and serums and the client is required to purchase home care essentials, so upselling is easy.

“We highly recommend that the therapist also applies the peel to the backs of the hands whilst undergoing the treatment on the face. This may be offered to the client as a free anti-ageing hand treatment, to which the salon gives a value, e.g. R250. It is a great incentive when offering a series of peels to clients and costs the salon only a couple of rands extra. The client feels

totally treated and a lot more income has been generated for the salon. Happy client, happy salon owner.”

SIX Skincare SIX Skincare has a variety of peels catering for skincare therapists as well as aesthetic doctors. These include the superficial Reveal Peels that cause epidermal injury. They are available in a choice of either Lactic Acid 30%, or Glycolic Acid 30%. Then there is the medium depth Retinoic Acid 35% + TCA 20% Peel, which causes injury into the papillary dermis. Lastly, there is the TCA Peel (TCA 50%), which penetrates into the skin deeper than AHA peels.

Says SIX founder Marisa Dimitriadis: “The ingredients used in all our peels are the pure acids, we do not mix or dilute them.”

She notes that from a revenue perspective, salons and aesthetic clinics can expect anything from a 500% to 1,000% mark-up for a peel service “What makes SIX Skincare peeling different is that we combine aroma psychology and psycho dermatology in our peeling treatments, which

no other brand does,” continues Dimitriadis. “This means that we use different sensorial elements to enhance the treatment both physically and mentally, which play a huge role in the enjoyment of the treatment and in the healing process. To give one example, we have cold marble stones that we use to massage the skin after the peel, together with an oxygenating serum. This boosts the various benefits of lymph drainage, skin cooling and a relaxing massage, something no other brand delivers in their skin peeling.”

enlarged pores, age spots and hyperpigmentation.

An anti-ageing benefit is achieved with alpha lipoic acid, a potent antioxidant that stimulates cell renewal and protects the skin against the effects of free radicals in the environment.

These actives, in addition to ingredients that actively reinforce the skin barrier, thus protecting it from overstimulation and preventing loss of moisture, offer incredible, visible results.

Nimue

Thalgo

The Nimue Smart Resurfacer Peel was developed as a superficial peel that creates the rejuvenation equivalent to that of a medium depth peel, but without the sideeffects that may be associated with deeper chemical peels.

Client discomfort has been minimised thanks to the oilbased and anhydrous (waterless) formula. As Nimue’s Smart Resurfacer Peel does not contain any water, there is no friction on the skin and thus minimised stinging and burning.

This treatment’s advanced formulation contains active ingredients that provide intensive rejuvenation within the skin.

It includes salicylic acid, an excellent peeling ingredient with anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as pyruvic acid, a proven ingredient used in the treatment of acne, oily skin,

Thalgo la Beauté Marine has launched the first Marine Peel, rich in acids from fermented Micronised Marine Algae (MMA),

the cornerstone and original patent of Thalgo.

This fermented MMA is titrated into lactic acid, which progressively renews skin quality, for a ‘new skin’ effect that’s visible from the first treatment.

Age, the environment (repeated exposure to sun and pollution) and lifestyle (smoking, alcohol) lead to slower epidermal skin renewal. Skin quality gradually deteriorates, encouraging the appearance of the visible signs of ageing, namely wrinkles, enlarged pores, dull skin tone, and lack of plumpness and firmness.

This is a progressive and customised method – ranging from a one-off treatment shot, to a three-week course for a more intense treatment.

New Skin Peel is a one-shot treatment (light dose) – Grade 1 {5% fermented acids from MMA, and 20% AHA/ PHA complex (glycolic and gluconic acids)} The Anti-Ageing Peel is a two-week cure (medium dose) – Grade 2 {10% fermented acids from MMA, and 20% AHA/ PHA complex (glycolic and gluconic acids)}.

Photo-Ageing Peel is a threeweek cure (strong dose) – Grade 3 {15% fermented acids from MMA, and 30% AHA /PHA complex (glycolic and gluconic acids)}. PB

Peeling

37

Waxing

38

How to nail your waxing service

B

KIERAN READ quizzes top waxing experts on how to keep hair removal clients committed to your salon or spa.

uilding a strong waxing client base for your beauty business is not only essential as a reliable source of revenue, but can make your customers feel like part of a family.

1. It’s about close communication “Don’t forget to do a full consultation with your clients every treatment. Has their medication changed? Are they using skincare containing retinol or a high level of vitamin A, which can make the skin thinner and more sensitive? Are they allergic to sticking plasters, pine or tree nuts such as macadamia, hazelnut, shea butter or cacao?” advises Tracey Smith, founder and director of Ashmira Botanica.

2. Ask loyal clients to support you online “With the internet and social media, clients are more savvy and will look at reviews to ensure they’re getting the best service. If you have great reviews that state how hygienic your service is, then they’re sure to go to you as they know they’re getting a clean, safe treatment that their peers can vouch for,” advises Wax:one education ambassador Kirsti Turrel. online @ probeauty.co.za

3. Never double dip “Double dipping is when a therapist uses a spatula to apply wax to a client, and then reuses the same spatula to apply more wax later on. This is deemed as extremely unhygienic as the ‘clean’ wax in the pot becomes contaminated with the bacteria, hair and even blood from the client that has remained on the spatula,” says Annabelle Pescaglini, product manager at Sienna X. “Each spatula should be disposed of hygienically after each wax application and removal.”

4. The thinner the better “Make sure wax is applied thinly, evenly, and at a high temperature, quickly and comfortably. This not only makes it nice and easy for therapists performing the treatment but less painful for clients,” says Jessica Kilby, waxing specialist at Australian Bodycare.

5. Charge what you’re worth “Get your pricing right. Too cheap and people will wonder why your service is priced so low, but too expensive and they will look elsewhere for a saving. Know your customer and competition in the area and price accordingly,” explains Lisa Stone, Salon System’s Just Wax educator and wax specialist.

6. Take pride in your equipment “Clean your heater after each client. It only takes 20 seconds to apply equipment cleaner to a wax strip and then give it a good wipe around,” advises Claire Prior, head educator and waxing specialist for Outback Organics.

7. Go the extra mile “During a leg wax treatment, I would always remove the hair from the client’s toes and feet. During an intimate wax, I would always remove any hair on the buttocks and inner thighs as well. Clients like to feel that you’re giving them that extra care and attention,” says Caroline Mears, a waxing expert from Waxpert, one of Perron Rigot’s educators.

8. Reward repeat customers “Loyalty schemes are a great way to keep your clients returning, it will make them feel valued and it’s a good way of thanking them for their custom,” says Stone.

The above information is extracted from an article that was originally published in the May 2020 issue of Professional Beauty UK.

39

lyrical

Waxing

WAXING

Salons and spas offering waxing services should ensure that they select a brand that offers excellent results and value and which can provide them with a complete solution.

Depilève Distributed by Smart Buy, Depilève film wax is comfortable, hygienic and long lasting. The film wax method only applies the wax once to perfectly remove the hair in one strip. Its low temperature perfectly dilates the pore to remove the entire hair from the root, preventing ingrown hairs. It does not produce redness or irritation and leaves no residue on the skin.

The types of waxes in the Depilève range include: Monoi Of Tahiti; Karite Shea Butter; Intimate Film Rosin with Cacao Butter & Oats Extracts; Bronze Wax with Salicylic Extract; Cerazyme DNA Mask Wax with DNA Filaments and NMF; and Cerazyme Gautline Sporlight & White Mulberry.

011 888 9044

Cirépil®

by Perron Rigot Available from SA Beauty & Hair Distributors, Cirépil® by Perron Rigot has introduced a new pre and post range for sensitive skins.

Formulated with repairing and soothing active ingredients, the range is composed of a lotion and an oil, perfectly suited to realise the complete 3-step protocol of Cirépil hair waxing.

Pre & post depilatory lotion, enriched with allantoin for moisturising and repairing properties, perfectly prepares the skin for hair removal and soothes the area after waxing.

Formulated with soothing mountain arnica, Pre & post depilatory oil helps to calm and soften the skin after hair removal.

021 551 2409

Screaming Beauty

Melinda Wax Supernova is the latest in depilatory wax technology from Melinda Wax. It is formulated as a synthetic wax to reduce discomfort, skin irritations and allergies, using fewer applications and leaving the skin silky smooth, while reducing regrowth.

This wax is easy to use and shortens the therapist’s waxing time in the salon. Being a synthetic wax, the heat is reduced within seconds after application.

011 789 8140

The Hot Wax – The Screamer – from Twincare International’s very own brand, Screaming Beauty, gently removes hair with the root, leaving smooth, hairfree skin for weeks. This wax is made with natural gum resin, providing flexibility to grip around contours of the area being treated. The resin is blended with titanium dioxide and mica, preventing excessive pulling of the skin and minimising sensitivity.

The Strip Waxes – Jack The Ripper – contain pine tree resin, which provides superior adhesion properties that grip the hairs for efficient removal, while the other ingredients minimise sensitivity and condition the skin.

011 305 1600 online @ probeauty.co.za

Hair News

40

Crowning GLORY

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front

Like magic

Voluminous volume

Inoar Liso Magico Progressive Magic Smoothing Treatment is a new, all-in-one hair rescue spray with 15 benefits and heat protection up to 230* Celsius. Its vegan formula contains jasmin extract, which hydrates, eliminates frizz and aligns the hair strands naturally.

In addition, it offers ultra shine and extreme sealing of the cuticle.

Amp It Up from Biosense is a fine weightless, odourless and colourless powder that nourishes hair while providing volume. It is enriched with hydrolysed wheat protein that thickens hair. Because of its low molecular weight, it easily penetrates the hair shaft and absorbs into the inner fibres of the hair.

012 346 1721

011 305 1600

Bald approach Trichotin DHT Inhibitor has been formulated to combat the effects of androgenic alopecia. This product combines the efficacy of a complete hair maintenance system in a single caplet, providing the body with all the vital nutrients and herbal extracts necessary to lower the production of DHT, thereby preventing follicle damage and stimulating hair growth.

011 837 1992 online @ probeauty.co.za

Close shave Barber range, The Bluebeards Revenge, has a range of products to combat wet shave razor rash, including Alum Block, which contains a naturally occurring double sulphate salt, while the Post-Shave Balm is formulated with soothing witch hazel, aloe vera and chamomile. The Bluebeards Revenge Cooling Moisturiser is an essential daily moisturiser.

021 448 8847

Aesthetic Medicine

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THE PATH TO EXCELLENCE Aesthetic procedures are not just confined solely to plastic surgeons or doctors, but also encourage the participation of appropriately trained skincare therapists and nurses to perform minimally invasive procedures, writes KAREN ELLITHORNE.

A

s per the American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine, this discipline comprises all medical procedures that are aimed at improving the physical appearance and satisfaction of the patient, using non-invasive to minimally invasive cosmetic procedures.

Patients who seek aesthetic treatments are not only wanting good health, but are also wanting to enjoy their lives to the fullest and minimise the effects of normal ageing.

Some of the factors that may be attributed to the increasing demand for such treatments are as follows: • Economic abundance • Medical and technological advances whereby new cosmeceutical products and devices have been invented to treat cosmetic disorders with minimal downtime and complications.

• Media driven demand • The desire to prolong youthfulness and self-image.

With the growth in demand for these types of procedures and

Aesthetic treatments are not only about appearance and convenience, but also about health and safety. practices, there has been a marked increase in the opening of aesthetic treatment centres. Before taking the leap into a new venture, or looking to upgrade your existing practice, here are 12 points to consider to ensure excellence.

Place Location is an important element in the success of your practice.

It is important to research the demographics of the patients living in area prior to setting your business up. A beautiful clinic in the wrong area can be a costly mistake.

Purpose In order to offer your patients the best treatments available, it is important for your team to keep up to date with the latest trends and technologies.

Aesthetic treatments are not only about appearance and convenience, but also about health and safety. Therefore, every patient must be treated with the highest level of professional competence and client care.

Practice and personnel Aesthetic medicine practitioners should try and look at their clinic from a client’s perspective.

Observe all areas, such as, for example, how your staff answers the phone, as well as their efficiency in handling appointments.

Make sure that clients are not kept waiting for their consultations. Always allow sufficient time for procedures to be done to ensure that treatments do not overlap, thereby putting strain on therapists and doctors. This will prevent them from rushing any treatment or procedure.

Staff should be well-groomed at all times and wear a uniform to maintain a uniformity in dress code. It is also suggested that strict regulations be in place with regards hair and make-up.

In the COVID-19 era, all practices > online @ probeauty.co.za

42 Aesthetic Medicine

Patient records It is essential to maintain a solid database as this assists in creating a good rapport with your clients. There are numerous online systems that are available, which allow patients to book appointments online, cancel appointments and also get SMS reminders of the time and date of their appointment.

Promotion and staff are obliged by law to adhere strictly to Government’s hygiene & safety protocols.

Professional skills There are many training programmes and conferences available to equip you and your staff with the necessary skills to practice aesthetic treatments and help gain experience and confidence. Always remain up to date.

Patients Be a good listener and practise your communication skills. Have a non-judgmental attitude towards clients and look out for body dysmorphic issues.

Try as best you can not to do treatments on first consultation, as it gives the client time to think about and prepare for the suggested treatment.

Always address the client’s needs first and call them afterwards to follow up and monitor their progress. This will instill confidence in your customers.

Protocol Before doing any treatment, ensure that you have explained everything adequately to the client. This includes the details of the treatment, alternatives available, risks and complications that could possibly arise, duration of the treatment and the expense involved.

Pictures Good quality, standardised before & after images are essential to any aesthetic practice. These images will be used to show the client their treatment results and allow you to monitor their progress.

When photographing the client,

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always concentrate on how you position the patient. Photograph them in a fixed anatomical position so the before & after pictures are uniform. The best background is a plain light blue, green or black non-reflective surface, like a linen cloth.

Broad daylight is always best but if not available, position two main lights at a 45 degree angle to the subject being photographed.

If you are able to invest in an imaging device and software, this would be the best way to record patients’ treatment results. You can then also email them directly to your client with the suggested home care products required.

Products (skincare and equipment) Do the necessary research to ensure that you have cosmeceutical products that you and your staff have confidence in working with and that offer the expected results. Training and promotional support from your supplier will be necessary to ensure that the retailing experience becomes profitable for the clinic.

When it comes to the equipment you need for your practice, begin by identifying the various vendors that supply the kind of medical aesthetic equipment that you are interested in working with. Narrow down the list of vendors based on certification, cost, training, availability of spares, credibility of company, after sales service and equipment maintenance and warranty.

An attractive, informative website is an important investment for your aesthetic practice. You can also use social media to promote your business, but do remember to follow the ethical rules and guidelines at all times. Also, ensure that all information is accurate and does not over promise results.

Sending out newsletters to your database introducing new treatments and special offers is always a good way to keep in contact with your clients. Live Zoom webinars and blogs can also be useful to educate and promote your services.

Precautions It is always better to go with the ‘less is more’ approach. Rather undertreat your clients then overtreat them. Also, it is vital to ensure that the client’s expectations of the treatment results are realistic.

Should complications arise, then treat these head on. Do not just ignore the customer and hope the problem goes away. It is suggested that any corrective treatments be offered at no charge.

Protection Insure your equipment following installation; this should cover all parts and electronics of the device.

Professional liability insurance is a must to protect your staff and the practice itself against the financial consequences of any mistakes or admissions that may occur. PB

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

Aesthetic Medicine

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holistic THE

FACTOR

As the demand for aesthetic procedures continues to rise, a strong correlation between result and service is expected by patients who opt for anti-ageing and skin-related treatments, writes DR JAN NEL.

I

t is important to note that a procedure alone forms a small part of the holistic experience that a patient has when walking through your practice doors.

The current landscape of aesthetic medicine is continuously changing. There has been a great focus on research with regards to skin-related medicine and procedures that allow for change and growth in procedural options, to allow for a bigger scope of modalities that marry medicine and skincare to anti-ageing.

With all of these changes, it is just as important to continuously change alongside the everdynamic world of aesthetics, as well as the beauty industry. In my own practice I have, with trial and error, had to evolve and change to not only meet the needs of my patients, but also the requirements of the industry to allow for healthy growth with regards to my business and clientele.

Emotional landscape I think it is important to understand that anyone who walks through your doors comes with their own story. There is an internal emotional landscape that needs

The success of your business is not solely reliant on the treatment or the procedure but rather on the whole experience. to be accommodated and to be recognised, just as much as the external physical landscape.

With this in mind, change is inevitable. How we encourage and / or facilitate this change plays an integral part of the success of any beauty or aesthetic business. That being said, we need to look at this as a process and alongside this, there is another process on the periphery that needs to enjoy just as much attention.

A clear vision of progression with regards to the look and experience of your business is just as important, to understand that from the first phone call to the payment, there needs to be a strong and solidified process that forms part of the experience

and change facilitated in the consultation room. Train your employees well and continuously to create a space to empower them to be confident in talking to patients, as this contact point is just as important as the contact with the clinician.

Elements The success of your business is not solely reliant on the treatment or the procedure but rather on the whole experience. I construct the patient experience by looking at all facets of contact.

These include: • Booking system • First point of contact • Friendly and reliant communication • Experience of reception upon arrival • Consultation duration and application • Truly listening to patients • Follow-ups after any procedure done. PB Dr Jan Nel of GenPracis is a Cape Town-based specialist in non-surgical injectables, with an A-list clientele. He strives to enhance a patient’s natural looks without them ever looking ‘done’.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Product Focus – Handheld Devices

44

On hand A recent trend has seen client preference for facial treatments that include the use of beauty machines to stimulate and regenerate the skin. Here are some of the smaller professional devices on the market, as opposed to lasers and IPLs, which require a hefty investment on the part of the salon owner.

Let there be light Multiple technologies

Thalgo’s first ever professional device, the iBeauty, works on sound vibrations, sequential ultra sound and tripolar radiofrequency, which has three different technologies with proven efficacy. The sound vibrations work in combination with the Thalgo Peeling Solution, while the sequential ultra sound has four actions on the skin – drainage, infusion, stimulation and fibrolysis. Lastly, the Tripolar radiofrequency regenerates and plumps the skin with use of the brand’s I Smooth range.

LED therapy involves the use of a device that emits light of various wavelengths in order to stimulate or activate different responses within the skin. It works to activate cellular ATP (energy), thereby improving cellular functioning. An increase in collagen production and the improvement of the body’s natural rejuvenation process is noted with regular use. Perfect for use on the face, the DermaFix LED Masque offers seven different light colours, each colour providing a targeted action on the skin. Effective results are best achieved with repeated use alongside DermaFix treatment protocols.

086 128 2323

011 880 3851/0

Mechanical peeling LCN’s Microdermabrasion unit provides an effective peeling application focused on antiageing effects. Suitable for all skin types, it comes with different attachments and intensity levels that can be set individually. Dead skin cells and skin irregularities can be removed with the diamond pressed attachment.

Microcirculation of the skin is promoted due to the generating of a vacuum, which improves the general appearance of the skin. The full treatment set includes Microderm Skin Expert; Youth Hyaluron Shot, Intensive Liposome Shot, Instant Oxygen Shot, and Mask brush.

010 593 3293

Pure plasma The technologically advanced SIX Aesthetix Plasma Wave Fractional Treatment opens up the skin channels and allows for maximum product absorption. Using the permeating attachment, the device massages the active ingredient boosters into the skin.

This is a non-invasive treatment with no downtime.

011 312 7840

45

market

Product News

IN THE

Our round-up of new products and treatments

Radical sun protection

Soft focus effect

Environ’s Rad Shield® Mineral Sunscreen is based on the same scientific principles of the brand’s sun care philosophy but offers a new contemporary sunscreen format comparatively better suited to oilier skin types, or ‘chemical-phobes’.

Powerful physical reflectors (zinc and titanium) and antioxidants provide broad-spectrum UVA, UVB and IR defence.

The Soft Focus Pore Refining Cream from Team Dr. Joseph’s Skin Care Plus range is a mattifying and pore refining product for oily skin that includes a filler effect for wrinkles.

Intensely moisturising, it covers skin blemishes and gives a soft focus effect for smooth and natural looking skin. It combines the benefits of make-up and

011 262 0264

0860 01 80 22

Subtle barrier

skincare in one formula.

To the point

LEMI has launched Spa Shield, specifically designed to guarantee the necessary protection for both therapists and customers during any type of facial treatment. Its thermoformed plexiglass structure works as a real barrier against potential contamination. The spa shield has a metal base with rubber wheels and brake, and is easily adapted to any spa table.

The Candela Exceed Medical Microneedling device is the first dualindicated, FDA and CE cleared medical microneedling (i.e. 0.5mm depth and greater) system on the market.

This standalone power unit for maximum efficiency was designed to prevent overheating of the hand piece. The power is persistent with up to 150-needle penetration per second.

021 863 0373

011 794 8253 online @ probeauty.co.za

Product News

46

Stick-on hygiene In the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic comes Pure Zone, a clear, laminate stickon film for surfaces that has effective anti-microbial properties, which provide enduring protection from 99.9% of bacteria.

The film’s silver ion technology protects for up to five years, is eco-friendly and drastically reduces bacterial populations. It recently passed the ISO21702 standards test.

082 339 0099

Dual purpose Optiphi has formulated a two-step, easy and convenient system, to incorporate into your client’s daily shaving routine to improve the shaving experience and reduce trauma to the skin during a shave. To fit into our fast-paced lives, the two-step system can alternatively be used as a cleanser and moisturiser, as a daily skincare regime.

012 667 6244/3

Right on!

diMANzi for men has been created by Di Thompson in the tradition of fine French fragrance using selected essential oils from the world’s perfume capital, Grasse. Zesty citrus top notes come from bergamot and lemon, while rosemary provides an aromatic, woody and earthy accord. The patchouli and vanilla base adds a warm, sensual and spicy appeal.

NeoStrata’s new Correct range targets specific ageing issues like visible lines and wrinkles, and refines skin’s texture and evens skin tone.

Products include Overnight AntiPollution Treatment; Comprehensive Retinol 0.3% Night Serum; and Comprehensive Retinol Eye Cream.

Products are formulated with hyaluronic acid, peptides and Alpha Hdroxy Acid.

011 455 4747

011 545 9300

Manly scent

online @ probeauty.co.za

Don’t forget to check out our social media channels There is always a regular stream of informative posts, news, views and the occasional FUN item to lighten your day.

@ProBeautyZA

Join us and get involved

Issue 34

July / August 2020

STRONG BOND Why you shouldn’t mix brands

STEP UP AND STAND OUT Competition tips

Count the cost How to work out prices

Nail Design Business Competition Welcome Trends

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e were relieved to receive lots of lovely entries for our Graffiti Street Art Photographic Nail Design Issue 34 Challenge, as we were worried that with nail techs July / Augu st 2020 finally back at work, that we wouldn’t get any at all.

Furthermore, we received many messages of thanks from nail techs for running these competitions, as they really enjoy tapping into their creativity. NailFile would like to thank Sonette van Rensburg for initiating this competition many years ago and for consistently coming up with great competition themes.

While nail salons find themselves grappling with the current difficult market conditions resulting from the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdown (i.e. enhanced safety protocols and a reduced number of staff and clients to comply to social distancing regulations), there are certain things that stay the same in terms of running a business. One of these is how to price your services. This issue of NailFile provides STRONG BO ND Why you shouldn’t mix bran some valuable tips in this regard. ds C

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CM

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STEP UP AN STAND OU D T

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Competiti on tips

Count the cost How to wo rk

out price s

WHAT’S INSIDE

56 51

56

Industry News

Business

52

58

Photographic Nail Design Challenge

Competitions

Stay in the know

The Space Age

54 Ask the Experts Can you mix & match systems?

online @ probeauty.co.za

When the price is right

Top tips for competing

61 Product Hub Latest releases

58

62 Step by Step

Tracey Lee’s Structured French

64 Top Tech Talk Candice Rabie

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51 News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Chantelle Ayres wins Graffiti nail competition The winner of NailFile’s Graffiti Street Art Photographic Nail Design Challenge, sponsored by Calgel, is Chantelle Ayres for her stunning and unusual set of nails and excellent step by step presentation.

Roelien van Aswegen was placed second, with Salomé De Gouveia in third spot.

Say the judges. “We were delighted to get so many entries for this challenge, especially considering that nail techs are back at work and no longer in lockdown. Overall there was really great work and entries from everyone.”

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1st Place The judges placed Chantelle Ayres first because her entry was so different from the typical graffiti one sees. They continue: “Chantelle took her inspiration from an American street artist by the name of Shepard Fairey (obeygiant.com) and depicted the exact designs and colours from his street art in every detail and element of her work. She also captured the message he relays in his work about being sensitive towards our fellow human beings and the planet. Chantelle’s nails were meticulously and beautifully done.”

2

2nd Place Roelien van Aswegen’s second placed entry was described by the judges as exceptionally creative, detailed and technically well done.

“Her work and art tells a story and is very expressive of what we are all going through at the moment with the COVID-19 pandemic.”

3rd Place Regarding Salomé De Gouveia’s third placed entry, the judges say: “Salomé’s set was very cute and colourful. Her nails look like they were spray-painted, and we loved her presentation.”

The judges gave special mentions to Bronwyn Glasspoole, Simone Finestone and Cindy Wannenburg. Glasspoole was complimented on her ‘beautiful, colourful work and a great presentation’, while the judges also commended Finestone for

3

her ‘beautiful work and lovely presentation’. The judges thought that Wannenburg’s incorporation of the word ‘NailFile’ into her nails was ‘very clever’.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Nail Design Challenge

52

I

t’s time for nail techs’ futuristic fantasies to take flight and enter another galaxy completely. From astronauts to spaceships, to planets, to moon landings, to the stars, asteroids,

space stations, NASA and lift off!

Your inter-galactic journey starts here!

Deadline for entries: Thursday, 20 August 2020. Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za and

clearly indicated and labeled with the name of the Nail Technician whose work it is.

Please make sure you submit good quality photos to be able to judge your work properly.

Rules & Regulations For any tips or advice please contact or What’sApp Sonette on 076 585 4191.

• Designs must be created according to the theme – The Space Age. • Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate the design work.

• Nail stylists have complete artistic freedom to create their designs in any style or combination of techniques, using flat, embossed, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work.

• Designs can be created on tips and presented as a Tip Box display or attached to some form of background to display the work.

• Photographs must be of a high quality and clarity to be able to see and judge the work that has been created.

• Nails must be properly and neatly shaped, with the same shape and length consistent throughout. Any length and shape may be achieved to suit the design work and theme.

• A combination of products and nail systems may be used, as long as it pertains to and complements the theme and look being achieved.

• All 10 nails must have a design and creation on them, each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another, be consistent in design and flow throughout all 10 nails.

• Judges will be looking at and judging on the following criteria. Theme following throughout the design on all 10 nails, Originality and own interpretation of theme, Consistency and continuity of design throughout, Neatness & Presentation, Design and technical quality, Use of Nail products.

Presentation & Step by Step • Please provide a step by step of your work, which must include: An explanation of your interpretation and inspiration of the given theme behind your designs, Photos of your steps for each nail and how you achieved the design.

Presentation should be themed according to the given set theme and can be presented as a word document, PDF or Power Point.

• Designs must be the Nail stylist own original work and not copied.

• Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za and clearly indicated and labeled with the name of the Nail Technician whose work it is.

• Please make sure you submit good quality photo’s to be able to judge your work properly.

• Please make sure you email your full details, salon name and contact details along with your photograph.

• Winners and placements will be announced on social media and the September issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine.

• Please note that a panel of four judges will conduct the adjudication. The judges’ decision is final.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Those nail salons that reopened post lockdown are booking less clients per day than before, to make time for the new hygiene & safety protocols and to observe social distancing regulations.

Says Eloise Tak of @elostrated: “Business got off to a slow start when I first reopened, but it’s almost back to normal now. My clientele seems to have changed as now I have rather a large number of new clients.”

Khomotso Mabulana also found business a bit slow on reopening.

“Normally one would expect business to be slow during the winter months, but I notice that we are picking up, day by day, and getting busier.”

Bella Vita Nail Art Studio on the West Rand reopened on 20 June. Says owner Chantelle Ayres: “The first three weeks of business were extremely busy, but since mid-July, business has been very slow. Unfortunately, I have lost a lot of clients due to them being serviced during lockdown by other nail techs, or them taking financial strain, or being in self-isolation.”

Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort reopened on 23 June. Says owner Tania Biddle:

“Although we are not as busy as usual, we are able to maintain a relatively fully booked diary.

However, a few of our clients have let us know that they cannot come back for regular treatments just yet, as they are taking financial strain. I think some clients will only come back once the situation with the virus has improved.”

Mary Thebe of @Peace Beauty

News

Reopened nail salons face challenging conditions

in Kempton Park reports that as her salon is not as busy as she’d hoped, her staff members are still at home because they live far from work and are reliant on public transport.

“So I am currently doing all the services myself,” says Thebe.

“Only if I have a family or a couple booked do I call staff members to come through. It has been tough.”

LCN Online Academy takes off One positive aspect arising from the COVID-19 lockdown is that the LCN Online Academy launched with a bang.

So says Looking Good LCN director, Lea Castro. “The lockdown forced us, as a training institute, to evolve. Prior to the pandemic we noticed that, due to distance constraints and scarcity of time, it was challenging to get students to commit to several days training at our training facilities. It became clear that we needed to look into online training, but I never gave this the

attention it deserved.

“When we were forced into lockdown, I realised that we had to get our online academy up and running right away. This was no small task but, with the assistance of my dynamic team, we launched the LCN Online Academy on 1 June 2020.”

Although it is still early days, the academy has had an influx of enquiries and students.

Several new customers signed up, with some existing clients currently expanding their knowledge.

“The advantage of our online programme is that you can do it at your convenience at home. Our programme consists of segments and assessments that need to be completed before moving onto the next part of the course.

This includes videos that teach applications and then the student books video classes with our tutor. Practical classes are available at our training facilities around the country and practical exams will be done there in person,” concludes Castro.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

54

ask

the EXPERTS

QUESTION:

Is it okay for me to mix and match nail systems and brands during a service?

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG Just like your fashion wardrobe and combining certain items to create different looks, there are some things that go together and others that just simply do not. And the same goes for different nail product brands and systems.

Some nail techs might believe that all nail products are created equal, or they may even have been taught that you can mix and match them to your heart’s content.

Well, think again as doing so can have very dangerous and serious consequences. There are actual scientific reasons and facts as to why this is an absolute no-no and it’s called product chemistry.

Every product within a nail coating system (be it nail polish, gel polish, wrap, dipping system, liquid & powder, or hard gel), is designed to be chemically compatible with one another, no matter what the brand is.

The ingredients in these products are very specific in assisting one another with how online @ probeauty.co.za

Synergistic formulations

Some nail techs might believe that all nail products are created equal, or they may even have been taught that you can mix and match them to your heart’s content. they react and respond to each other to be fully effective. You may think that substituting a product in a system with another product from a cheaper system will save you money, but don’t be fooled because it may cost you in the long run and you could end up facing all sorts of untold problems.

Each and every product within a system has its own specific purpose and unique qualities.

They are called systems for a reason, meaning that all the components within a particular system have been formulated to work in synergy with one another.

This means that when they are used together as a complete system the way that they are meant to be, they interact with one another to provide optimum results, and are chemically compatible. However, that doesn’t mean you can’t mix colours, pigments or powders to create different effects, textures and designs, as long as it is within the same product brand and system.

All nail coating products contain different amounts and levels of ingredients, additives and various components, which allow them to react with one another in different ways and speeds, bonding them together to create a hard, durable coating. For example; a liquid & powder or acrylic system has two components – liquid (monomer)

and powder (polymer), which contain a certain amount of catalysts and initiators that work together precisely, completing the polymerisation or curing process in a set amount of time. Some brands have the catalyst in their powder and the initiator in their liquid, and others the opposite. How would you possibly know in what way a brand has formulated their specific products, unless it was part of your training? So, if you were to use the liquid from one particular brand and the powder from another, not knowing the exact composition and how the products could react together might very well lead to an adverse reaction, affecting your application, the curing process and ultimately, the end result. That’s why using all the components from one brand and system is vitally important.

If you take these facts into account it makes absolute sense that mixing systems is going to lead to complications and pose all sorts of risks. It may seem okay at the time to mix and match, however this will not only compromise the overall performance of the products, but also the sustainability of the service and the safety of your client.

Even when using a nail polish or gel polish system, make sure you use the same base coat, colour, top coat, and components within that system and from one specific brand, to get the best results and ensure service longevity.

Problems Below are some of the problems that could occur if you mix systems; these aren’t always recognisable or immediately visible and may only become apparent weeks or months later.

There could also be many other reasons for the following situations to occur, but they are also caused due to mixing systems that are incompatible with one another.

Overexposure – When there is too little initiator to create a reaction between products, they may not cure fully, and when you apply the uncurred product to the nails, they can penetrate through the nail plate, or even touch the skin. Continuous exposure to uncured product will eventually cause irritation, leading to skin conditions, allergies and nail infections.

Exothermic reactions – These are the normal reactions that take place with all nail-coating products when they cure, resulting in a small amount of heat. Sometimes extreme heat spikes and reactions can occur, which aren’t good. This is due to too much initiator being present in products that don’t go together, causing them to cure too rapidly. It can also be caused when a gel system and lamp aren’t compatible with one another. It’s not only unpleasant for your client, but also leads to severe burns and even onycholysis.

Discolouration – This could also be due to too much initiator when mixing products, causing a

chemical reaction and resulting in discolouration, particularly when using a liquid & powder from two opposing systems.

Weakness and breaking – Products setting too slowly or quickly due to incorrect amounts of initiator can also lead to microscopic cracks, which can’t initially be seen with the naked eye, later causing the nail coating to weaken and eventually break.

Lifting – When products set too quickly, it results in shrinkage, causing the product to pull away from the nail plate and lift.

There are umpteen other complications that may arise from mixing your products and systems, so why would you want to? Besides, who do you blame when something goes wrong – the brand? Absolutely not, the onus is on you. Should you make the choice to mix and match and you experience problems with your application, you won’t be able to troubleshoot with the manufacturer.

Having a sound knowledge and good understanding of how to use your products properly and safely, as well as following the recommended application procedures, is imperative in making sure you get the best results from your products.

The best advice is to simply use your brands and systems as they are meant to be, and don’t take chances. Be brand loyal, be reliable, be safe and have integrity, for the sake of your clients and your business.

Products that are not made to go together will simply not stay together.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

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BusinessBusiness Trends

56

price

When the

is right

T

LEA CASTRO provides some invaluable advice on the tricky art of working out prices in the salon.

his is a very sensitive topic at the moment due the lack of income during the COVID-19 lockdown, coupled with the additional expenses of the new safety & hygiene protocols that need to be put into place.

It is very important to set the correct pricelist right from the start of your business. Once your prices are set, it is always challenging to increase them.

When you start out, even as a beginner, set the price as that of the professional you will become and offer special discounts until you reach your goal. The question is – where do you start? online @ probeauty.co.za

Top tips 1. A clear cost per treatment, together with a suggested retail price which should be available from your supplier, will help you to know where to start.

2. Do a survey of the salons in the area that offer similar treatments and analyse what they charge. You do not want to outprice yourself in your area.

3. Do a clear comparison on services offered and the expertise of the therapists in your area, as well as how long they take to do the treatments.

Are they a home-based salon or located in a beautiful shopping centre?

4. These are hard questions to ask as you have to be very honest with yourself to ascertain where you fit in. But remember that everyone has to start somewhere. And, the reality is that some home salons will put a shopping centre salon to shame.

5. What I am saying is that while appearance matters, so does time and experience.

6. Once you have this information, you can create a pricelist that is acceptable for who you are and what you offer. This is step one.

7. Step two will be to calculate your profit percentage for each treatment. For example: your cost is R50 and you are

It is very important to set the correct pricelist right from the start of your business. Once your prices are set, it is always challenging to increase them. and commission. How much of that R50 is pure profit that you can put back into your business to help it grow? Not much, if any. It is difficult to give you a formula as every situation is different, so I can just give some guidelines.

8. Perhaps a good indicator would be to take your profit of R50 and ensure that your cut from that is half (i.e. R25). So, you want to check your pricelist and ensure that you are charging enough so that 25% of that can be clean profit. This is very simplistic and basic but a good place to start.

9. Know your profit margins on your treatment. For example – a full set of nails can generate as much as 300% profit, which should give you a minimum of 150% clean profit.

Should I add a COVID-19 surcharge? charging R100, which leaves you with R50 profit. Now you need to factor into this equation that you need to pay your expenses; this mainly consists of rent, utilities, VAT, salaries

With the new protocols required for salons to function today, many people are asking about whether to increase prices.

Because we are in the middle of a worldwide crisis, I personally do

not feel comfortable with adding a COVID-19 surcharge on services, and this is why. As a professional salon, your hygiene protocols should always already have included sanitiser, gloves and disposable face masks prior to the pandemic. So, I ask the question – what has changed?

We now need to use additional sanitiser and a lot more paper towels and disposable items, but by how much has your cost really increased? We now wear reusable material masks, which will save us in the long run, and the cost of gloves has increased only slightly. These two will balance out. The price of sanitiser has stabilised, so that just leaves us with the extra paper towels and disposable aprons – has this inflated our cost per treatment that much?

Bottom line Our ultimate aim is to stay in business long term and keep our loyal customers. Everyone will understand if you have a small price increase now, but I would not go excessive. I want to remind you that people still have money and would love to spend it with you, if you offer exceptional service.

And for those who are on a strict budget, you can do something special for them to ensure they can continue to be treated by you. This is the time to make every client feel special and to have a grateful attitude towards them for choosing your salon.

Remember that your client is the most important person in the world while she is with you, and you need to give her your full attention and make her feel like a queen.

Lea Castro is the CEO of Looking Good LCN and operates from the LCN head office situated in Pretoria East, Gauteng.

online @ probeauty.co.za

BusinessBusiness Trends

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Competitions

58

TOP competition tips for nail techs

Taking part in nail competitions is about competing against yourself, improving your skills and making sure that you better your previous entry each time.

I

t’s good to enter competitions to see how far you’ve come and grown as a nail tech, according to international award-winning nail stylist and educator, Tracey Owgan of The Image Cartel.

Owgan, who has been on both sides of the competition curtain, participated in a recent Professional Beauty webinar moderated by industry professional, Sonette van Rensburg.

“You are only as good as your last set of nails,” added Van Rensburg. “I’ve found that you can create a set and then look at it and think, ‘I could have done it better’.

Nothing is ever 100% perfect, so always strive to achieve perfection.

When entering a competition, preparation is everything. If you fail to plan, you plan to fail.”

Owgan, who won her first ever competition when competing against nail artists from 30 other countries, concurred. “You need to start preparing and practising months in advance for a competition to gain confidence, and to believe in yourself. During the competition itself, it starts with how you have set up your

online @ probeauty.co.za

I’ve found that you can create a set and then look at it and think, ‘I could have done it better’. Nothing is ever 100% perfect, so always strive to achieve perfection. When entering a competition, preparation is everything.

table and how you work in your salon environment. But obviously studio and competition nails are completely different. I’m OCD about table set up and working tidily, so if you do that on a daily basis in your salon, it will stand you in great stead in competitions.

“You need to have a personal checklist of exactly what you will need for competitions and make sure you pay attention to factors like sanitisation and table setup. Break everything down into the details and then break those details down, and so on. Have the end result in your mind and then work backwards to achieve that.

conditioned skin and cuticles, and must be patient and committed to you for the day, as she will need to sit still for hours while you work and for the judging process.

Mediums

And obviously, you must understand the rules and the regulations of that particular competition.

“Every time you are in your studio, work on your application technique to better your times and skills. Analyse each nail that you’ve created. A lot of people are terrified of competing, but you are bettering yourself just by competing, as long as you accept that it’s not a bad thing if you lose. Just the fact that you are sitting in that competition chair is amazing in itself.”

Van Rensburg advised that competitors should take everything with them to the event. “Take your own extension cord, two-pin plugs, your own bin, etc and get to the competition venue early. Practise at home and move yourself into other areas of your home or studio, so you are comfortable in any space. Don’t worry about what other competitors are doing during the event, focus

only on what you need to do.

Don’t fall into the trap of getting distracted.”

Owgan advised the correct use of various different nail mediums when entering the nail design categories. “Have accessories that are not overwhelming and that are complementary to your design. The more techniques and technical ability you display, the more you will impress the judges.

Be self-confident, calm and relaxed and keep your table in check – products must be professionally labeled and your work area organised, neat, tidy and clean.

Mix ratios As liquid & powder can be quite temperamental, Owgan stressed the importance of getting your mix ratio just right, as you can’t work too wet or too dry. She continued: “You have to know exactly how to pick up that bead to be just the right consistency. Keep yourself and your model warm and your products at the right temperature, as it can play so many roles. You have to practise beforehand by working in different environments.”

Van Rensburg pointed out that the model you source for your competition set is very important and needs to be a partner in what you are setting out to achieve.

She should also have healthy nails, preferably long nail beds, well-

“Remember that the hair line at the free edge has to be ultra thin.

It’s all about practising and looking at the surrounding soft tissue on your model’s finger. Check your pinching and filing techniques, take note of the apex, the C-curve, the upper arch and the underside of the nail. One little speck of dust can throw a nail out. Allow yourself time in a competition to make sure the nails are completely free of any dust, debris or product.

Ensure that you keep product off the soft tissue. The smile line has to be consistent and neat, check every single detail of each nail, as consistency is key. Competition training is also so important in preparing for a competition – this is true whether you are a competitor or a judge.”

Van Rensburg made the point > online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Competitions Trends

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Competitions Style Savvy

60 that every set of nails is carefully judged, by looking at it from every angle and taking every single detail into account.

Step by steps Owgan stressed the importance of meticulously produced step by step presentations for nail art competitions. She continued: “Step by steps are really important, both locally and internationally.

It’s imperative for you to do step by steps so that you know your process and what products you are using. And, having to work in a regulated manner is also important. Compiling the step by step helps you to be organised.

Having a portfolio is great, as you need to know where your inspiration comes from, especially regarding competition themes.

I put a lot of work into my portfolios and it helps me to win competitions. So I list every single shade used and every single product, as well as the tools and implements used to create my designs.

“The step by step process adds integrity into what you are building. And it helps judges to understand what you did, why you did it and how you did it.

What we’ve seen in the NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenges are some stunning nails, but then the entrants totally fall apart on their portfolios.

You can lose points on a poorly executed and presented step by step.”

online @ probeauty.co.za

Van Rensburg made the point that the picture quality and resolution of photos submitted for the NailFile Photographic Challenges and competitions needs to be very good, so that judges can see and assess the nails properly.

Themes Owgan advised that nail techs research the theme of each competition they enter and ensure their storyboard works. “Find something that resonates with you,” she stated. “Just have fun – as David Fowler of Astonishing Nails, says, we’re not doing brain surgery – we are having fun. Keep evaluating yourself. I like to do one nail and sleep on it and then the next day, I will evaluate it.

Remember that less is more a lot

of time, but just make sure that each detail of your nails is done to the best of your ability.”

Van Rensburg said nail techs should not just put their nails on a completely plain background.

“Although presentation only counts for 10% of the overall mark, it’s an important part that can make all the difference to whether you win or not. We often see a beautiful set of nails but then they aren’t presented properly, or there are some nails that just don’t fit in with the rest, or that don’t complement the overall design” Owgan noted that the design and theme must carry through all 10 nails. “Every single tip must have a design on it so it tells a story. That one single nail tip that doesn’t have much of a design on it could lose you points. We want to see your technical ability, skill and detail on every single nail.

Just putting a few dots or squiggles onto a nail isn’t enough.”

Van Rensburg concluded by saying that some of the best entries received for the NailFile competitions are those that utilised a number of mediums and techniques, and paid attention to detail in every aspect of their work. “But, be clever how you use these and interpret the theme to make it your own,” she said.

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

Mysterious collection From Artistic Nail Design comes the new Wrapped in Mystery collection, an indulgent range of shades that channel sultry vibes, with rich hues of chocolate and rouge, as well as hints of softer mauve and copper.

The colours include: Twist Of Fashion (deep brown pearl); Ingénue In Blue, (dark navy pearl); A Jewel In Disguise (fiery copper shimmer); and Madame Rouge (rich magenta pearl).

Adding to the collection’s enticement, the Wrapped in Mystery shades are available in Colour Gloss Soak Off Gel Polish, Colour Revolution Reactive Nail Lacquer, and matching gel and lacquer Duets in every shade.

All collection shades will also be available in matching Perfect Dip Powders as well.

011 305 1600

Homely set

Intelligent lamp

Bio Sculpture’s Home Care Kit is specially designed to keep your client’s natural nails healthy and strong at home.

The kit Includes ETHOS Kiwi Scrub (contains passion fruit seed powder to exfoliate and redydrate dry nails and cuticles), as well as Vitamin Dose, which is formulated with a combination of vitamins to rejuvenate, moisturise and nourish nails.

Also included in the kit are Almond Cuticle Oil (infused with almond oil and extracts, jojoba, avocado and vitamin E oils); Lavender Base with rosemary leaf extract to treat weak, damaged nails; Remover Sachets and a thin black file.

LCN has the perfect solution to loadshedding – a smart curing lamp that can last up to two hours without power. It is built with 54 LED bulbs to ensure optimal curing, and also offers the possibility of a ‘Soft’ setting, which is especially suitable for customers sensitive to heat.

The light unit can be used for manicures as well as pedicures as the bottom can be removed.

It measures (W / D / H): 200 x 178 x 92.5mm and operates at a wattage of 30W. A power supply is included as an accessory. Power input: 100V – 240V, 50/60Hz; power output: 12V – 2.5A.

086 124 6435

010 593 3293

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business In the Market Trends

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Business Step Styleby Trends Savvy Step

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french STRUCTURED

There is nothing more satisfying than creating a gorgeous French manicured nail, until you realise that the possibilities for French are endless.

Join TRACEY LEE on the journey to create a structured French nail.

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In order to create the structure under your extension, you can use Glass Foils. These can be used in their full length for longer nails, or cut in half for shorter nails.

The foils can be secured onto the form with a thin, double-sided tape that is supplied with the forms.

Place your form to achieve the desired shape and do any additional customisation to the form and foil to create a sleek extension.

Apply a thin layer of clear gel to the nail plate and create the extension edge. It is also possible to use liquid & powder here, or an acrygel product. Ensure that the clear product you choose to use is really clear to achieve the best effect.

online @ probeauty.co.za

3

Secure the foil onto your form.

Using your favourite cover colour, create your nailbed extension. I am choosing to go slightly longer and sleeker on my nailbed as I will be creating a longer nail. TIP: Irrespective of the product you are using, remember to create a 90 degree angle on the edge of your smile line to ensure that it is crisp.

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When using gel I find that during curing, gel rounds off at the edges. For this reason, when creating my smile line, I take that characteristic into account and build my smile line slightly higher.

After curing, I sharpen up the edges with a file at a 90 degree angle to my free edge. TIP: I love using a thin metal file to get up into the corners of the smile line to ensure I have a ledge of product there too. Other files may be too thick to really reach up into that area.

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Apply a purple Glass gel along the smile line and fade it out over the extension edge.

Do not cure.

Apply a red Glass gel and fade it from the free edge of the extension towards the smile line, creating a blend of the two colours in the middle. TIP: It is possible to add flakes, glitter, bullions etc at this stage, however I feel that the effect is strong enough as it without any additions, but feel free to experiment.

Cap the extension edge with clear gel and cure.

File your nail into shape.

Seal with a Top Gel and enjoy the effect!

TIP: In the absence of Glass Foils, it is possible to take a small piece of aluminium foil, scrunch it up and use this as an alternative. Hold the foil in place with Scotch tape.

Tracey Lee is the founder of @beauty2trs and a certified nail technician, international award-winning nail artist (Nails Mag NTNA Winner S4), independent global educator, and a competition judge. www.tracey-lee.com

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Step by Trends Step

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Business Trends Q&A

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Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to Candice Rabie, owner of the Beauty Goddess Salon in Balfour, Mpumalaga, about her online support group for nail techs and about designing her own range of press on nails.

What prompted you to start your own nail group on Facebook and what is its main function?

The Facebook group is called Nail Tech SA Support. My inspiration for starting the group is very personal as once I had completed my training, I felt that the post care for my qualification was nonexistent and that a lot of aspects were not covered in training courses. To me, education is so important because it helps you stay confident in what you do and allows you to know how to handle each situation. The function of the group is to share knowledge and it provides the freedom to see what brands in our market have to offer. It allows nail techs to stay on trend with the latest art, education and competitions.

How many followers do you have in the group?

Currently I have 7,300+ followers and this number is growing each day.

“

I am absolutely a nail art enthusiast!

online @ probeauty.co.za

What made you want to start designing your own range of press on nails?

How have your press on nails been received by the market?

My line of luxury press on nails is called Plush and Blush, and they are custom made for each client to fit perfectly, resulting in a very natural look. I have been doing research into press on nails for quite some time, but when the COVID-19 pandemic hit us, I felt this was the perfect time to launch such a product. However, this was not my sole inspiration behind my press on business. I do a lot of matric balls, weddings and other large events and so many clients don’t always have the time to stop by the salon before that huge event.

Or, you might not be someone who doesn’t necessarily like having your nails done but want to look fabulous for that special occasion. Press on nails are such an easy option and you can even stock them in your closet and on the day, just pop them on, following the instructions provided.

I find that there is a market for press on nails, although many women think my product is similar to the press on nails you would buy from a drugstore. But they are not, as my product is made from gel and it is much softer at the back of the nail plate and thickens from the stress point to the free edge. This allows for each client to have that perfect adhesion on the C-curve of their nail plate.

I believe that as technology changes, so will we and that this market will still flourish in the future. All of my press on nails are based on my client’s specifications, so I don’t make any collections as every set is custom made for each client.

I’m assuming that you must love nail art?

I am absolutely a nail art enthusiast!

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Yes, I do nail art on almost all of my clients. I wouldn’t say that I have a specific style of art as I am continuously growing and changing, falling in love with something new, so it’s ever so evolving. I did not do art at school and to be honest, I have two left hands so my art skills are horrible on paper. However, I have invested in hours and hours of training and mastering the art of different brushes and mediums and how to work with them to my fullest potential.

Please describe the piece of nail art of which you are most proud.

That is such a hard question to answer. Honestly, I don’t think I have reached that stage yet, as I love all my sets and I put in so much love and effort in them.

But I have not shattered that glass ceiling yet. It’s coming…

Every day sees a little bit more growth.

Business Trends Q&A

Do you perform lots of nail art services on your clients?

When did you first become interested in nails?

Ever since I can remember I have loved nails and from the age of 16, I’ve done my own nails. I love everything about nails, how beautiful that fresh set makes you feel, and the extension of your personality that follows through.

You can lift up your mood with nail colour and you can tone down when you are going through a hectic month. When your hands are dressed up, you feel powerful as a woman. It’s like wearing beautiful lingerie underneath your clothes.

What are your ambitions for your career in the future?

My ambitions are very big and they scare me on a daily basis.

I love to challenge the norm and start something from nothing.

Actually, I would love to become an educator, open up my own school and ignite my passion in other students. Furthermore,

I would like to become a pioneer in a new field in South Africa that is very untouched, and that is nail reconstruction. This is another passion of mine. We do not offer a lot of training in South Africa on this subject and I would love to be on the forefront of levelling up our standards and advancing new technology.

My aim is to create trends rather than follow them, by becoming a leader in the nail sector. I am still young and very ambitious, but I also have so much more to learn and that makes me happy because the industry is ever evolving. This keeps us all our toes so that we don’t stagnate.

Are there any nail artists, either local or international, that you follow or admire?

I draw a lot of my inspiration from European techs, as they are at the front line of what is trending and are so evolved. Sabrina Millecam, Kirsty Meakin, Ágnes Sebestyén, Norka, and Annabel Maginnis – they are some of my favourites. online @ probeauty.co.za

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